Developing Sheet Film
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- Опубліковано 8 гру 2020
- I show the viewers how I develop my black and white sheet film in the darkroom using a tray method and a tank method. This method will work for any size sheet format, 4x5, 5x7 or 8x10. With this method viewers can set up their own little darkroom and develop their own sheet film for their photography.
/ toddkorol
www.toddkorol.com
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Kodak D76 developer: amzn.to/2Wb1H1j
Kodak Stop Bath : amzn.to/2JP046K
Ilford fixer: amzn.to/3n1kF6g
Ilford Delta 100 film : amzn.to/373fYmW
8x10 darkroom trays: amzn.to/2KcAZST - Навчання та стиль
As always, your video is very helpful with lots of practical knowledge. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Great post for us folks considering 4X5 - Thanks for taking the time to do such a througrough run through.
Perfect, thanks for watching.
Thank you, for another great video. Comes in very handy as I'm building my darkroom. Love your channel!
Thanks very much, good luck with the new darkroom!!
thank you for sharing your knowledge. These videos are very fun and a great help for people looking to get into large format. I myself cannot wait to get my hands on a toyo 45a. This channel definitely helped me get there! Keep it up!
That's great to hear. Can't wait to see some photos you take. Cheers!
Thanks! I've been usinge the Stearman Press, which works well for the tank, too. And it's as easy developing colour as B&W. I only warm the chemicals in a basin within the sink with warm water and thermometer. Easy peasy.
This is really helpful Todd, many thanks. I'm going through all of your videos from the start now having started at the top! Very much appreciate your tutorials as I'm starting my 4x5 journey. Fantastic images too! Cheers from the UK
Great news. Thanks for the note!🍻
Very informative video. Thanks for taking the time to produce it. Cheers from Nova Scotia...
Thank you so much.
Hi there Todd! Thanks for creating this video. I've been wanting to learn how to develop my 4x5 but with the pandemic it's been impossible to find an in person class that I can take. You've layed out everything I need to know about developing. Once again, Todd, thanks for creating these excellent tutorials! May you & your family continue to have great health!
Yes it’s sure been a tough time for all. I’m really glad you’re getting some useful info out of these. I started them for some friends for this very reason and now I’ll just keep going. Stay safe!!
Thank you so much for uploading this video and providing this information.
Right on, I’m was enjoying all the Seattle stuff in background. (Watching from Seattle, Carkeek Park)
Thanks for sharing.
I have added a Kodak Medalist 2 to my quiver. Along with accessory back for sheet film. Just trying to understand what items I need to be complete. It’s very hard to find anyone who even knows what I’m talking about, so your video was inspiring.
I just got my Intrepid 4x5 today. Perfect timing. 😁
Sweet! Have fun with it. Hope this helps.
The massive dev app gives you all the time data plus a great timer and the ability to keep your own times.
Hi Todd, just now I discovered your channel and let me tell you that the information that you gave is priceless.
I'm 21 years old and really love shooting film, while I was on film school I got to learn how to develop 135 and 120 b/w and colour film, and I love it.
Recently, with my girlfriend we got the idea of opening a small film lab, because where I live there are almost no options and the service sometimes it's not good, and your channel it's a great help for that, your way of teaching it's incredible, and your really precise and left no questions, this is the best information about a not so popular film format (at least where I live), so yeah, thank you for giving this information for free.
Greetings and much love from Valparaiso, Chile.
That’s wonderful news, thank you so much. Good luck I hope your small film lab happens. Warmest wishes from Canada!
Super vidéo et explications. Thanks you
Thanks Todd
Thank you very much for this video. I did not need this information yet but today I have bought a 4x5 so I will return to this video a lot of times the upcoming months. :-)
Perfect, thanks!
Thanks Todd. Based on your video I’m going back to presoaking my film.
Well it helped me out a lot. A lot less problems now. Good luck!
Hi Todd,
Thank you for these great videos! I would soo love to see your enlarging process as well! Cheers!
Thanks, I plan on doing that in the near future.
G'day Todd. I'm Trev from Australia. I just found your channel tonight, subscribed, and I want to thank you. It's 2022 and I turned 70 three weeks ago, BUT you just took me back 40 years and reminded me of some wonderful times. I used to be a forensic document examiner in the NSW police force in the 1980s and in my early days my job was to take and develop photographs for the senior people in the section. I used a 5 x 4 Linhof camera on a copy stand and then hand processed the negatives. My darkroom for processing the negatives was smaller than yours but productive. I loved your comments and advice about using gloves. In my day O, H, + S (Occupational Health and Safety) were just three letters in the alphabet and I eventually found that I was allergic to the developer, which caused blistering on my skin! Love the format and saw one of your other videos about using the double dark slides (that's what we called them) in the field. Great advice. Thanks for the memories.
Hi there. Thanks for the great note, these really make my day! One day would love to come to Australia, travel around and do some work. Thanks for watching. Cheers mate.
@@toddkorolphoto If you do, you would be welcome in my home. Thanks
@@trevoralt1568 thank you that is very kind!!
Really cool thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Hi Todd,
Thanks so much for your videos and sharing your passion. Thought I would pass along a tip on loading your expert drum. Leave the sheets up about a half an inch out of the cylinder until you have them all loaded then push them all in. This avoids losing track. Chase the Light
Thanks, that's a really good idea! I put one in then don't rotate the drum until I have another to put in and count, but I like your way better. Going to adopt that. Have a great day.
Great video Todd!!!!!!!
Thank you.
Thank you!!
So glad to see you made this. I need tray skills.
Thanks, it’s a good effective way to develop film. Cheers.
@@toddkorolphoto Yeah, my Jobo Cpp3 is out of commision so need a solution for 8x10 at the moment.
@@toddkorolphoto question, is this (tray) the only way to develop sheet film?, or just the way you prefer to do it, I am new to this, and am wondering about developing it myself (B&W,NOT colour [C-41\E-6] Negatives). just saw the other comments, but they say the jobo is an expensive tank, is there any others ( other than the mod 54, as I want to do 5x7" sheet as well).
Great UA-cam channel.
Very practical will be a Combiplan tank plus three extra containers
with covers, bought in a shop for houehold items.
The insert with sheetfilms must fit in the three +/- 1,5 liter containers.
Containers filled with stopbath, fixer and water.
After having developed the films; in total darkness place the insert
into the stopbath; move 60 seconds.
Bring the insert into the container with fixer and move ? minutes.
Put the insert into the last container for washing ?? minutes.
When washing is finished; 1500 cc + wetting agent for 60 seconds
Drying in a dustfree room.
Really nice... Hope some day to be able to buy a 4x5 camera...
Push and pull processing of black and white sheet films.
The best way is to put your negative in a stainless steel
Kodak sheetfilm developing frame.
Hang the frame in a tank to do a lift and dunk processing.
You can keep full controll over time and agitation in this way.
Series of films to push and pull, can hang together in one
tank, just joined in two seperated series.
Stainless steel frames cannot cause scratches.
The temperature of the developer can not rise because
the fingers stay out of the developer in the tank.
Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam The Netherlans.
Please do a tour of your darkroom!
Sounds good, a couple of people asked for that, so great idea.
thanks!
Sheet films developing in a Combiplan tank is very easy.
In a Combiplan tank with a non leak proof, plastic cover;
not suited for upside down movements. The insert must
be lifted and dunked in total darkness.
In a Combiplan T tank with a leak proof, rubber cover;
suited for upside down movements.
In a 4 x 5 tank fits six 4 x 5 inch films or six 9 x 12 cm films
or six 6,5 x 9 cm films.
In a 5 x 7 tank fits six 5 x 7 inch films or the double amount
of the smaller sized films.
I tried tray development. Not for me. Scratched my films nicely. I am now with the jobo drums which works great for me.
very good overview.
Hi Todd
I heartily appreciate your video.
It is fantastic and has helped me a lot to clarify my ideas on film processing in trays.
Where did you buy the negative washers?
Thanks a lot
He uses paper clips. At photographic fairs you can find real film clips.
Nice vidéo ! I use a Combiplan for developping my 4x5, and without possibilities for a darkroom, I must use the long filling system (around 30 seconds), so I fear that pre-washing must be counter-effective, even with long-time developpment . Never seen zoning, in fact. Pre-wash is recommanded by Ilford for rotating developpment, not necessary for inverting, so perhaps it is the explanation…
Would it be a good idea to use distilled water when mixing up chemicals - especially the last photo flow dip?
Great show and tell - thank you.
Yes distilled water is always good!
So incredibly helpful! You removed the “mystery” of film development and have given me the confidence to jump in and try it myself. Many thanks!
Perfect, do it, it’s great.
@@toddkorolphoto what’s the roller you had your JOBO tank on?
As a Washington native, I need to get that Seattle Times Apron!
Yeah I’ve had it for over 25 years. My friend the great Seattle Times photographer Alan Berner gave it to me. I have used it ever since.
Thank you so much for this great and very informative video! I would like to start large format photography after shooting 35mm for ages and having started medium form a while ago. My dad was given a 5x7 camera from the 1970s some years ago and he also has a wooden 4x5 from 1910 inherited from great-grandfather, and I may use both. My dad is a passionate photographer too but has never shot LF. So all your videos most helpful for me! I have a question about the prewash: would you also recommend it for medium format film? I have never prewashed and never had any issues with 35mm. Now that I am developing MF I sometimes have some dots on the edge which I have never had with 35mm film. My guess was that is was due to the different tank I use for MF but now I am wondering if I better prewash my MF rolls.
I don’t but you can give it a try and see if that fixes the problem.
I've been doing photography for 50 years. Your points are dead on to be successful in developing. Consistency across the board is so important. You're asking for problems when you change things especially more than two things. Pre-wash is important. Great recommendations on apps and web sites. The only thing I disagree with is that you missed the best way (IMO) to develop your film is using the Stearman SP-445 developing tank. I've used every method out there (including Jobo) and I've found it to be the best and most economical. For newbies this is the best method. Also, color is easy to do especially with Cinestill processing kits. Great video
Yes, repeating things is your friend. I have been having great luck with the Jobo, but I will check out the Stearman system, thanks.
@@toddkorolphoto Loved my Jobo especially when you have a large volume of film to develop. I had the CPP-2 which was great at keeping the temperature consistent. I switched over to a minimal agitation technique which isn't possible with the Jobo.
@@MichaelWellman1955 I need to do a little more research on min agitation, I’ve seen some great results from that.
+1 for the SP445. As long as you are careful to be gentle with agitation it is very simple and gives great even results with a very economical outcome on chemicals.
@@jaswatts Yes I might have to try that system out, that would be good when you are on the road.
Thank you. Learned not to slip top sheet to bottom. I now carefully bring bottom to top. Very rarely do I mar the emulsion. And before video, was not wearing gloves because I couldn’t feel film (I still use just my fingers to carefully remove film from negative carriers to initial water bath). With thin gloves, I can feel film and hopefully not raise temp. I keep gloves on throughout process, but rinse in running water to avoid cross contamination. I used to work in an operating room, so practicing “sterile technique” applies here with film.
I am not sure what to do with an 8 x 10 sheet of film because I do not have an enlarger this big and I like to print big 32 x 42.
Sounds great. The beautiful thing about 8x10 negatives is they make gorgeous contact prints.
Hello Todd,I use one tank Durst Codrum 304(rotative processing) for developer 2 sheets 8x10 with only 150ml of developer and it's ok, very good!
What kind of developer?
Hola, pero hay algun video de como psitivar ampliar 9x12.
Hi, thanks for posting this. How did you wash the films before you got the film washer ? Just with a paper tray washer ?
Yes a tray washer, but you have to wash very gently so you don’t scratch the film.
Great have you considered a video on silver recovery 😎
I have, not sure how many people would actually be interested in that, pretty small I think, but I am considering doing some really short tips that might be one for that.
Thank you Todd. You mentioned your fixer disposal method. Can you explain that? Also, name brand of the wash tank you used? Greatly appreciate your videos.
There are a bunch of fixer disposal methods, in short I let it sit in a pale with steel wool for a week. There is a bunch of different ways on the internet.
Great Video and just in time of me having issues developing c41 4x5 from 1984 and I’m not sure if it’s my developer/blix or the film itself. I am getting what looks like water marks all over the sheet.
Yes try a wetting agent at the end.
@@toddkorolphoto I will on the next batch, thank you!
Did you mention temperature? I have the CPP 2 JOBO, so I can control the bath temperature to within 1 or 2 degrees. I always develop my negs at 20 degrees. + or - 1 degree.
I did mention temp, I always work at 20 degrees c. And yes Jobos are great at keeping a constant temp.
Highly agree about the prewash for sheets, it puzzles me that Ilford highlyrecommends to not prewash their films.
Yeah I don’t understand it. I had all kinds of issues until I started pre-washing. Then they went away.
Thank you, very informative. Please what is the last bath after film washing?
It's a wetting agent, Photoflow for the negatives.
@@toddkorolphoto oh yeah thank you I use some similar stuff in my country 👍🏻
Oh yeah I see now I use some similar stuff but with a different name 👍🏻
Hi Todd for a beginner how long do you develop for with d76 10 mins. Then how do you agitate, how long do you use stop and fixer. I guess what is a simple film recipe for a beginner with any black and white sheet film?
It varies depending on the film you are using. Every film has a spec sheet that will give you starting times for developers and how you agitate. Have a look at those for proper times.
My school had those siphon wash tanks, but I can't find it anywhere on the internet.
If you can find one snap it up, it will last a life time.
The Pre Wash for B&W negative film developing of 35 mm, roll film, sheet film and glass plates
has never been mentioned in the job sheets of Kodak, Ansco, Agfa, Ilford, Gevaert, Adox,
Perutz, Ferrania, Forte, Efke, Foma, Orwo, Sakura or Fuji.
I know, but it works.
Just got a 9x12cm plate camera the other day, hopefully this method still works! Sadly I might need to cut down some 4x5 sheets to actually fit in the plate holder.
I know a few people who cut their own film, I've never tried.
@@toddkorolphoto Just out of curiosity, how do you identify the emulsion side of the film in a changing bag?
@@maxrownes7914 If you hold the sheet in your right hand the notches would go in the top right hand corner, then the emulsion would be facing you. Also look through my channel, I did a video on how to load sheet film, and I show you how there. Thanks.
Talking of digital scan, I have an expensive Epson scanner, which I used to scan my negatives and slides on. Alas, I have not been able to use it for several years now because it connects to the computer via Firewire, but since my desktop computer died, I have been using laptops and small “desktops” that neither have a Firewire interface nor do accept PCI cards.
You can still get adapters from FireWire to USB, no?
@@toddkorolphoto Judging by the reviews such adapters have on amazon, I would not trust them. I did, however, just receive an adapter that allows a PCIe card to be connected to a computer via a Thunderbolt 3 connector. I ordered a FireWire PCIe card, and am hoping that will work.
I ordered these things after watching your video and posting my comment, so thanks for the inspiration. 🙂
@@RustyTube I really wish they would stop changing all these cords every other year and just settle on one. Hopefully we are closer to that now. Thanks for watching.
@@toddkorolphoto Yes, I wish the same. Thanks for making these great videos.
@@toddkorolphoto Man, I feel so dumb. All the extensions I tried did not work. Then I noticed that while the scanner uses Firewire, it also has a USB port! So I found the right cable, and now it works. Thanks for bearing with me.
At what point do you turn back on the lights?
After it has been in the fix for 1 minute. Also make sure you have no exposed paper out anywhere.
I am shooting one or two sheets more and more. Problem is my film tank holds four so kind of a waste of chemicals. I think I need to use a small tray. Oh and i shoot 4x5.
Yes this is a perfect set up to do just one or two sheets. Good luck.
You only use all the chemicals for one development? Or can you reuse like I do for my 120? Also what is Hypo Clear for 2 minutes like it says on the app? And why is the final wash 10:30 or what you said 15:00 vs 120 I only did it for 2-3 minutes?
I personally only use a one shot developer. You can reuse the stop bath and fixer. You need to wash your negs for at least 15 mins.
I have a Anniversary Speed Graphic which uses 3.25x4.25 sheet film, how would you recommend I have that developed?
Well it all depends on the film, if it's regular b&w film you could tray develop it.
Just curious. I can’t imagine tray developing sheet film. I always used tanks. Much easier to control development in my opinion. What does tray development offer you in contrast.
Yeah trays are tough but a lot of the greats used it. All depends on agitation, you can agitate more for more contrast or less and alter development times too.
Great video, Todd. What is the name of that app again?
Dev it!
How much is the chemistry cost for 1 (or 4 or 10) 4x5 sheet film developping in B&W? My lab is so expensive and slow in Paris...
And for color ?
Thank you for the amazing video ❤️ Love your channel
Romain
It costs me me about $1.50 for 4 sheets of 4x5 film to develop.
Hi Todd: Just got a Jobo 3005 tank for 8x10 film processing and am a little confused about the amount of developer needed (D76 diluted 1:1). Is 200ml of DILUTED developer really enough for each sheet of film? Or should you actually need 400ml per sheet (200 water; 200 developer)? Everything out there I'm reading says 200ml of diluted developer is not enough. If I try to use 400ml per sheet for sheets, I've exceeded the capacity of the tank. Could you please clarify? Thank you!
I use 250ml of diluted developer for each sheet of film. The tank will take 1250 ml of developer. As a rule, Kodak and Ilford state you need a minimum of 250ml of working (diluted) developer to develop a roll of 35mm, a roll of 120, 4 sheets of 4x5 or 1 sheet of 8x10. If you use that the developer will not become exhausted. Also keep in mind this is for tanks that roll in a Jobo. For standing tanks of course the roll has to be completely covered in developer. Hope that helps.
Thanks very much -- Cheers !@@toddkorolphoto
Instead of a stop bath, what do you think about using water instead? I use it for my 120mm film.
Sure you can use it, just remember water will only slow down your development until it hits the fix. You only need a capful of stop bath which will last you a long time and the cost is just pennies.
@@toddkorolphoto Great point. I ordered an Intrepid 8x10 which should arrive in early January. My plan is to use tray development until I can afford a Jobo system. I was looking for a film washer with no luck. If you were washing in a tray would you just rotate them as you would do during film development?
@@stevebills2427 No I would use a proper tray print washer, B&H still sells them, they are not expensive and work well. The one I have is very hard to find now, but works great.
Why do you use ilford rapid fix over D76 fixer?
Rapid fix fixes your photos. D76 is a film developer. Kodak also makes a fixer that is very good, but comes in a powder format and you have to mix it up first. Both Kodak and Ilford fixers are very good.
@@toddkorolphoto the Kodak powder is what I am referring to. It is sold with d76 developer as Kodak d76 fixer.
@@trevisonclark7135 ah ok. Yes the Kodak powder is great too I just use Ilford because it’s easy. 😉
The name from the app please. thank you
The app's name is ; Dev it!
The pre-wash: is it in distilled water?
Just regular water.
Thank you for the tips. You said 200ml developer for 2 5x7 sheets?? I develop one roll of 120 in kaiser tank with 590ml of developer. 200ml for two 5x7 is it really enough?
A rule of thumb is you need 200mls of developer for every 8x10 inches of film. So it is slightly over. So for 1 roll of 120 I need 200mls of developer, but I use constant agitation on a roller. If you use a standing thank them of course you need to fill the tank with developer.
@@toddkorolphoto Thank you I developed two 5x7 negatives in trays with 300ml developer for the first time! Thank so much! Still washed it in tray with runing water. I dont have vertical stand for it. What benefits of washing film vertical vs washing it in tray?
@@gabrysgabriukas No scratches, easier to scratch negatives in a tray. I am currently working with a 3D printing guy to make a 3D printed stand washer. Stay tuned.
I over exposed my film while shooting how can I fix it with developing
Lots of factors. Was it color or black and white? You would need to reduce the development based on how much over exposure you did on the negatives.
@@toddkorolphoto it black and white I have ilford 400 film I reduced the time 4min 30 second. But it doesn’t even matter because I have to much camera shake so they aren’t even focused
@@Realmen990 Darn that's too bad sorry to hear.
What about 8x20
Would love to try that.
Amazing round up Todd. Thanks for a great vid. The Jobo expert drum is expensive. I use the MOD54 (mod54.com/) with a Paterson tank. A great budget proof solution.
Yes unfortunately they are, I've had mine for a long time so I bought them when they were way less expensive, but I do like them.
yes, but this is, as the name suggests, for 5x4 only, a 3 reel paterson tank(what the mod 54 fits into) can't fit in a 5x7" sheet 😞, need the taller 'PRO' tanks!!
These jobo stuff are well made but with regret the prices are a but of rip off for what they are.
Yes now, people are capitalizing on the fact that they are hard to get, I bought mine back when they were $200, they are now $600!!
@@toddkorolphoto I do have the CPE2 processor that I bought in the early 1980s. I can't be 100% sure but I do believe that it was about £160.00 which sounds cheap now but then it was a lot of money. I primarily used it to develop CibaChrome prints up to 12X16. I still have those giant tubes that connected to each other. This stuff has always been expensive.
Dear Sir,
Pre wash of the sheet film has never been advised to do by any film brand or photo chemical brand.
The 1947 american book on the Speed Graphic camera did not mention the pre washing of any
4 x 5 sheet films.
The pre wash of the negative glass plates, sheet films, roll films, 35 mm, 16 mm and miniature films, made by Agfa, Ansco, Adox, Orwo, Gevaert, Forte, Ferrania, Foma, Tura, Sakura, Konica, Fuji, Kodak or Ilford had never been advised by the film brands, the phot labs, the photographers and the photo amateurs.
There is no need of running water in the negatve and positive darkrooms.
Beware of any power shut down; the elctric film developing tank will stop rotating and the process
can not proceed.
Be smart, do not prepare in the kitchen your own photochemical liquids by dissolving the powders
of the developer, stopbath and fixer.
Buyinguy the concentrate liquids to be dilluted by plain water is much easier to do.
World's best film developer is Agfa Rodinal / Adox Adonal. Rodinal is a one shot developer to be dilluted 1: 25 and 1 : 50.
For special purposes mix Rodinal / Adonal to 1 : 10 or 1 : 100 and 1 : 200.
Rodinal works well for all brands of 35 mm film, roll film and sheet film; it is the soup for all seasons.
Be prepared of water shortage; have a jerrycan filled with 5000 cc water. Finding the correct temperature by running hot water from the heater is not wise. Just mix some hot water to the cold water.
Tray developing can cause a lot of damage to the sheet film:
1.Spots of fog will occure by the fingers because of pressyng down the sheet film.
2. The heat of the fingers will rise the temperature of the developer.
3. Over developing of the film will happen, where the film is touched by the heat of the fingertips.
4. Moving the films to the next tray will spoil the previous liquid.
Tray developng of sheet film will need six trays: pre wash, developer, stopbath, fixer, washer,
wetting agent rinsing.
Our family is in photography for more than a century and is knows Agfa Rdinal for ages.
Never put the bottles with the photo chemicals on a shelf; just put them in a plastric container
on the floor.
Greetings, Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam - The Netherlands
Pre-wash ?
We are in photography in four continents since 1885 and
developing glass plates and sheet films all the time.
We never did, do or will do pre wash.
Kodak, Adox, Ilford, Agfa, Gevaert, Ferrania, Forte, Foma,
Lumière, Konishiroku, Fuji never wrote in their information
and job sheets anything about pre-wash.
They did not, but myself and a lot of other photographers I know have had few problems after doing a pre-wash.
What are your "FEW PROBLEMS" and pre washing ?
@@toddkorolphoto
@@jacovanlith5082 I have and other photographers I know have gotten development streaking on the negatives, doing a pre-wash prevents this.
To dry your sheet films the professional way,
you need stainless steel clips; made Germany.
I’m sure your film dries much better with them.
Do not shake your wet gloves;
the darkroom and your apron
will get wet and dirty.
Use a paper towel.
Developing like this is not the way I would recommend for amateurs.
If you dish develop, one at a time is safer.
Your tray developing is no good.
The heat of your fingers will cause a rise of the tempeture of the
developer and the film at the two spots where you touch the film.
Pressing on an emulusion during the developing of it will cause fog.
Yeah whatever dude.
Ansel Adams mentions this in his book The Negative and he recommends keeping a bowl of cool water at hand to dip your fingers between agitation cycles.