depends what kind of rubber, natural rubber yes you are correct, Buna N no same stuff every oring is made of in your fuel system., besides viton or fmk. @@tkello001
The cheap shower head hoses definetly, and ever for a generic water hose they're crap, deteriorate in a year, very tear-prone, no tensile strength, and very prone to collapsing when bent
That's certainly one way to do it. Another IMO more user friendly option would be to use a 12V solenoid valve controlled by a switch inside the vehicle so the coolant flow can easily be turned on or off with the flip of a switch. Just make sure to power the switch with a circuit that's only active when the key is on so the battery can't be drained by leaving the switch on while parked!
I know you prob meant a brass ball valve, but the first image that popped in my head was an 1-1/2" PVC ball valve, and that cracked me up for many a reason
Yep. PTFE braded lines have a working PSI of 300 and are burst rated at 1,000. These will work on anything fuel delivery related in the automotive world.
I'll give you one guess as to what most fuel tanks are made of or lined with if they are stamped metal. You can literally buy braded 6AN size PTFE fuel line. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using this line as a stock, it just needs sized fittings that fit appropriately. It would take some bench testing, but I'm betting that an Earl's barbed insert and screw down fuel injection fitting would work without any issues.
I once made a cold air intake out of pvc pipe. For a dual throttle body old EFI ford pickup with a 302. Painted blue and had a big K&N hanging off the end of it. Worked great and looked pretty good too. I even sold the entire setup to a guy with a Bronco when I decided to sell the truck. Don’t knock the hardware store for car stuff.
It's really not, and factually incorrect. PTFE is used in high pressure situations all the time. And is widely used in the automotive industry, especially in high pressure fuel lines.
I spent 15 years as an instrument technician, installing test gear on powerplant units, including gas turbines. We used Swagelok stainless braid over teflon flex hoses for the natural gas inlet pressure connections on the GE Aero-derivatives like the LM6000, which burned natural gas at 600+ PSIG and 300 degrees F. Good stuff!
You ever do LADWP peaked units in Long Beach ca? The LM 6000 is used a lot in peaker power plant units… impressive machine and the plant is easy to build.
Never did work in Long Beach, but did units all the way from San Diego to Redwood country, The GE peakers are very compact and reliable engines, and I have tested them all over the world. The LM5000 that preceded it didn't have as good a reputation, but I tested one in Modesto that ran trouble-free for every 17,000-hour service interval for years. The newest peakers have ramping guarantees to reach baseload within 10 minutes of startup. I saw one on a flatbed in CA one time, it was the size of a pickup.
Hey Tony, Tim here, TEFLON is a wonderful thing, used in MANY applications, from frying pans, to throttles cables (Lokar type).....didnt know it cud really take fuel constantly......gets my gears a rollin in my head.......here's a tid-bit of info.....my late Uncle was a chemical engineer for Dupont, not only did he work on the Manhatten project, but was one of the higher up dudes that came up with teflon......every time i use teflon tape, or PTFE paste for plumbing, i think of my Uncle, SUPER smart dude, and had a '69 SS 396 Chevelle, '64 Wildcat (that my brothers raced at E-town), then stuck with Buick, like his huge 225, and a few Lesabres.......just wanted to chime in, and yak some family history with you guys.....PEACE to you sir!!
Those braided lines work great under higher pressures with a propper barb and the trick is "PEX" ring clamps & propper ring crimper. Ive had a few emergency fixes with this method, that became permanent because it was better than factory. (Works on p/s a/c coolers, fuel) in my experience. I still hate getting poked occasionally by the stainless braided wires. 😅
Lol they won't hold the pressure of a p.s pump maybe good for the return but nothing more They are not PTFE so they are no good for fuel and I won't even trust them for oil even less hot oil
Dear Uncle Tony, I worked maintenance on a 426 unit apartment complex. The city refused to install water pressure regulators. Every unit had 80 psi water. Those 1:46 lines never failed.
It is not the hose that will fail, it is the hose tail/clamp that will leak. Remember there is a lot of vibration when running. Like he said, it would probably be OK at higher pressure, but would you take the risk?
@@auteurfiddler8706 the problem with that approach is under low use the pressure will climb back up to 80 psi. And under heavy use like in the morning when many residents are taking a shower the pressure will drop to really low levels with just a trickle at each faucet. A partially closed valve is not a pressure reducer, it's a flow restrictor. A proper pressure reducer will modulate internally to maintain the correct pressure regardless of the demand on the water flow. Though, 80 PSI is really not that high. It's at the upper limit of most faucet recommendations but well within the specs for the pipes and other plumbing. The building I service has 65-70 psi from the booster pumps and I see no issues with any of the showers, sinks or toilets. Haven't had any of the lines burst from pressure
I worked for a rubber company 6 yrs.. there is a massive huge difference between water tube and fuel/oil tube.. the water grade will dissolve in fuel or oil.
You can make your own PTFE lines at home if you get the right fittings. I made a nitrous line out of it and it works better than the preformed lines I bought from NOS. Its a little stiffer and harder to bend than the rubber but will hold pressure up to 2000 psi
My dad always toured plumbing isles in any store we went to cause you never know what would be handy for workin on cars. The one that sticks with me most is grabbing pvc pipe to make custom guage pods. Works absolutely perfect and costs 1/10th as much
I've made teflon lined hoses for previous cars before. But there are so many levels that even the regular rubber ones are available in cheap form and higher quality versions. Alcohol content in street fuels can be a concern with older versions of hoses also.
Next up using copper tubing for gas and brake lines. Saw a flat bottom drag boat this weekend with dual 4 barrels plumbed from the fuel pump to the carbs with copper tubing and brass fittings. Big no no boats especially.
And that's a good thing. DON'T use this hose on fuel. The only hose you want to use on fuel is carbon lined. Otherwise static builds up in the hose and arcs through the liner to the stainless steel. When you use carbon lined hose rated for fuel use, the carbon is a ground on the ID of the hose so the fuel can't build up a static charge. That's why SS braided hose got a bad rap for making garages sell like gas when cars are parked. Without the carbon they end up with microscopic weep holes in the liner.
Tony that’s brilliant! I actually always wondered why people didn’t use it. I understand not using it on fuel injection setups at high pressures but for carb setup it’s perfect and a hell of a lot cheaper!
People don't use them because they are not PTFE and won't last a week in presence of gas much like is previous hose that probably failed because it's not rated for ethanol fuel
There has been ptfe AN hose for at least half a decade now. They use special hose fittings that have a compression style fitting. Have used them on turbo oil feed and return lines due to the high temperature resistance, when rubber lined AN hose melted and fell apart.
Improvisation isnt bad...especially for the low buck builds. You do what you gotta do!!! After I dropped the 440 in my 68 Dart, and got the B body headers to fit, I realized i needed an exhaust. No money left, but i had this 2 3/4 inch conduit laying around, so....👍
Hey Tony, You can get AN screw on fittings fro PTFE line, from Summit, Jegs or whomever. I plumbed my fuel injection feed and return line with it to prevent any chance of fuel permeation and degradation over the rubber line.
Teflon has a very high softening and melting temperature compared to normal plastics. Nylon softens at 110C, while Teflon holds up to 240C and melts at about 400. Nylon itself is a softcore aluminum substitute, so cheap Teflon is the supreme material over anything except silicone. Teflon is probably the most abrasion-resistant mass production material, so its likely to withstand a lot of rubbing before it leaks, if it even actually gets scratched at all.
Teflon insulated electric cable used in RF, or high heat applications melts at a much higher temp - soldering iron will not effect. We tested a sample (taken from semi-rigid coax) in a gas chromatograph (think that is what it was) and it started to de-gas at about 900C - and was still intact above 1200C. Did not melt. So what is special about this version of PTFE?
ptfe/teflon is commonly used in 3d printers that print up to around 230C as a tube that goes up to the nozzle and used to be used for holding the heat block itself(cheaper to machine so hobbyists and tinkerers devised plans they shared and they were sold a lot). in the hot ends where it touches the nozzle(non "all-metal") the end of it goes bad over time(blackens) but it still lasts a long time. it's way beyond most underhood temps. however you have to remember that if you heat it too much it will outgas a toxic gas - it's not really that much of a problem if you don't get it basically on literal fire but in 3d printer circles people freak out about it often.. even if they cook with teflon cookware on a gas stove. the actual practical problem with the 230-240c softening/blackening limit is that if the tube doesn't seal against the nozzle well enough then the hotend starts to leak through the threads, one of the common frustration reasons why you'd find 3d printers at the curb. a really nifty material for tinkerers. in the blocks that you can machine it you can cut in threads too.
ALL of those magical flex lines are prone to being poorly installed (twisted on normal install). don't ask how I know. and majority loves to be eaten by ethanol/ethanol stacking.
I used a flexible water heater output line ( steel braided Teflon) for coolant connection from the water pump to the cooling system on my VW Vanagon Subaru swap. Reason being that I had to pass the line through a small gap in the steel headers and knew rubber was not a good choice. Never failed.
As mentioned below, there is PTFE hose rated for automotive fuel injection pressure applications with assemble-able fittings. An added bonus is that PTFE is impermeable, you wont get fuel smell in your car if you have a line that is routed through the cab.
The hardware store was one of my best friends back when I was hotrodding. I used get all my fuel blocks and fitting from there. I'd get the fuel line from the autoparts shop, fitting from hardware - flared my own. Saved a ton of money over the years that I was in the hobby. I didn't use much "rubber" lines if I could avoid it - the quality wasn't as good then. Hardlines with nice pretty bends. And I typically ran some multi-carb setup that cookie-cutter premade lines didn't work out with. I battled the Tampa FL heat absorption of the metal lines with rubber tubes fit around the metal lines. They looked rubber to the casual viewer, but the pressure holding was metal. Did the same with the trans lines as well.
I worked at a shop where an old Corvette came in, with the tri power setup. The new (aftermarket) fuel line he put on leaked. So he bought another and just assumed it was used error. After the second fuel line setup leaked as well, I told him I could make it with brass unions and stainless hard line. I shaped the brass fittings with a grinder and polished them, and also polished the stainless in between. It looked really good, and didn't leak a drop. Several people at car shows asked him where he bought his fuel line kit. And I probably ended up making half a dozen stainless and brass setups
Good idea. I once used black plastic drain pipe in place of the steel gas fill pipe, that had rotted out in my 92 Legend. Couldn't get the part, so had to improvise.
Saw a previous video of yours a while back, bought a roll from a refrigeration supply house, used it from the fuel pump to the regulator, from the reg to the carb. I used a "Clamptite tool to clamp it, and used heat shrink over the clamp. Works great and looks good.
Not only did Ralph Earnhardt put in the "Winners Work" to take the Checker but he had the fortitude to eliminate his competition fairly. "Ironheart" discovered the #6 Screwdriver sold at his local hardware store could double as a bulletproof Axle-Key that just wouldn't break. Then he went back and bought every screwdriver they had and placed a standing order for all future screwdriver sales upon their arrival. For me, IMO. Still today good Hardware Store Plastic Roof Cement is the best undercoating ever made for an automobile and hard to beat especially on the backside of a welded-in rust repair patch or a daily-duty's cars wheel wells. Anybody that's ever seen TONY scrape a cars underbody, underpinnings, and underlinks of undercoating knows he puts out the "Winners Work" or stays on the porch. And last time I checked he don't "Stay On the Porch."
@@tommymac3029 Axle shaft keys or just "axle keys" are essential pieces of hardware when keeping a drive wheel tight against a revolving shaft. The key fits into a keyway, the rectangular slot that is milled into both the shaft and hub. The familiar sunken axle shaft key is always square in cross-section, although it may have rounded or bevelled ends to fit a rounded-slot axle keyway.
I have a Teflon hose I use to pick up a concentrated rinse agent. Nothing hurts it. Previous I used rubber which only lasts a few months. The stuff is amazing.
In the scaffolding world in NY city, the caterpillar style roof cars on the roof were hydrolic , I’ve made a million hoses, it was rated for high pressure, and was fine with gasoline
They do make noncrimp style fitting for ptfe we use them for compressor discharge lines on semi trucks. Go to your local truck shop. Grote and tectran make them.
As a rodder on a budget, UTG, i appreciate "improvisation" tech like this more than you know. What i'm sure you DO know is that there are forces from within the various racing assoc. & speed equipment mfg's who would LOVE to be able to dispel or silence any info.that would threaten their share in the ASTRONOMICAL cost to "go fast." To them i say.."stick it." To you i just say "Thanks."
They don't want this hose on fuel lines because static charges build up and discharge through the inner liner to the steel braid. For fuel use, you have to use carbon lined hose so the inside is grounded. If the fuel can't build up a charge, it can't blow microscopic pinholes though the liner.
Teflon hose with stainless braded is used on the discharge lines for air compressor on trucks, oil resistant and good for 150 psi. available with field installed ends.
The problem with the Teflon hose is the bend radius is large along with if you drop something on it it’s done. A kinked s.s. Braided hose is a problem waiting to happen. But they’re very chemical resistant.
Bullshit because they don't resist fuel they are pvc hose you won't find PTFE line with end for this price ever lol He even just posted a video saying he was wrong lol
Oh now you post this video after I been watching your channel for years and just spend money on lines for my 1980 c15 I'm almost done restoring... DAMMIT!! Lol.. cheers
The substitute for the proper crimp is a “bubble crimp” pex clamp/crimp ring do a great job of keeping a connection secure and easy to make. I’ve never used them for anything like a braided line but I’m guessing that they work really well
I tried the stainless braided faucet lines. It works great. One tip, if you haven't tried it. I slip a piece of black shrink wrap in the ends. Makes a better, more professional looking installation. Thanks for all your tips Tony. Been messin around with cars for over 50 years.
PTFE hose used for fuel needs to carbon in it to conduct any static electricity otherwise it will fail due to tiny holes where It arcs to the stainless braid. PTFE fuel line always has a black inner core. If it's not black you can t run fuel in it. Fragola aeroquip and others make fittings with special olives so you can build your own lines without a crimping tool.
Hi, here in my town there was two tipes of this hoses. One for gas (LPG and NCG) and one for water, made of rubber. Both of them works fine, but for safety I use to change them about every 2 years
Thank you for the clarification on that I was wondering if I could use that on a motor build . I work on a very tight budget and always looking for the old school ways . I watch your channel religiously thank you for your tips .
I bought some of those a while back to run my Transmission Cooler lines. Never had the guts to actually use it. I didn't want to find out the hard way that it couldn't handle transmission fluid.
Ptfe doesn't require crimp. There are plenty of fittings that can be put on them. Summit and jegs sell them along with the ptfe hose. I assemble these and rubber stuff all the time. Same process different fittings. The bad with ptfe lines is they don't like to bend much without kinking.
A lot of people in the comments section talking some crap LOL. But what he's talking about is the very essence of Hot Rodding. It's a test of ingenuity. Every time I walk through a hardware store IC new options for any hot rod build.
Novicely confused. But my little grey cell's are working overtime on how I can apply this knowledge and information for my uses. And I see someone is indicating proper crimping tools and so forth will make it more viable. I say good day sir, and challenge accepted!
Hate to differ with you Tony , but those lines are PVC and can deform and soften in contact with gasoline.Did some research on what they are made of to be potable(safe for drinking from)
Braided Teflon line is used on truck air compressor primary air lines & see more than 120 psi & 200 deg-F. I keep line & fittings on my service truck & make them to length as needed. I also have some of it on my race car.
I usually just mock up the hose lengths and fitting angles and take it to a hydraulic hose shop and get them professionally crimped. I’ve seen a few of those DIY AN hoses leak and don’t even want to risk it.
I'll stick with injection rated SAE from parts houses. I used it on HD injector pumps on heavy diesel equipment, so I know a big block on 95 can't hurt it It's about $4/foot
I use a boiler valve with 5/8"s barbed male ends from a home improvement store to shut off the heater core during the summer time . last time i bought one it was 12.00 but probably has binden prices now . put one on my 65 dart , 66 valiant and 1982 dodge d150
Utg is the tim Allen of home improvement...pretty sure Tim Allen put a few of those water hoses on his hot rod he had in the garage...lol...luv your vids utg!
As someone who has been making all types of custom and industrial hoses for 10 years, DO NOT USE any of those residential plumbing hoses for automotive applications. Go to a hose shop and get the CORRECT hose and fittings for the application. He is right about PTFE being a resistant to a lot of chemicals including gasoline. Also the hose might be labeled as 3/8, aka -6, but the ID is not always a true -6 for plumbing supply lines. Just my 2 cents, do you as please to your projects.
A well stocked hydraulic supply place that makes hoses can also get that material and better ends which may hold pressures up to 2000 PSI or more. They will also make them to length for you.
Almost 20 years ago I had a Honda injector seal failed. Nobody had them in stock so I used the O rings from Home depot. Found out they are made in the same plant and same part number. One is $.05 other is $5 a piece. Son is still driving that car today with those seals.
I have a 286 sporting a waterline from the fuel pump to the 2BBL carb it's been on it 10 years (yes 10) and no issues whatsoever. I got the car with a snapped 2150 carb filter, removed the broken nipple from the carb and screwed the water line (male kitchen tap end, i think 1/2", apologies i only know metric) and voilà. The other end, female, just screwed into the pump with a 1/2" brass male-male adapter. Fixed. FYI, I imported th car from the US to France where you can't run down to an O'Reilly's because there ain't any (and imperial is a no go) and i didn't want to wait for an imported filter. So hardware store, waterlines section it was. never looked back.
The convex glass lids for kitchen pots and pans make great custom instrument lenses. Many are already trimmed in stainless. Remove the knob/handle and replace with a chrome bullet. I saw a custom dash once that was made from a cast metal step from an escalator. The overall curved face (rise) of the step was perfect for a dash and the grooves and 'blades' were polished making for a great louvered look, it was genius.
All you need is pipe fittings to connect each hose together, or to put another a/n fitting on. You can plumb your entire car with these without cutting and hose clamping
If you use the correct compression fittings at the ends, those hoses will absolutely work at fuel injection pressures (up to say 100 psi). You can always custom braze compression fittings onto a barb so long as the line isn't full of gasoline and you take care to re-temper the tube.
Caution. Many of those home plumbing braided hoses have an EPDM liner. EPDM disolves when in gasoline or oil service.
So does rubber
depends what kind of rubber, natural rubber yes you are correct, Buna N no same stuff every oring is made of in your fuel system., besides viton or fmk. @@tkello001
The cheap shower head hoses definetly, and ever for a generic water hose they're crap, deteriorate in a year, very tear-prone, no tensile strength, and very prone to collapsing when bent
I was about to say the same thing. You could use them for heater hose, but not fuel or oil.
@@tkello001not all rubber
Walk into a Marine supply store like West Marine. They sell bulk marine rubber fuel line. Great stuff; won't collapse under vacuum or degrade.
I swapped the failing plastic pos heater valve in my astro with a $7 ball valve. Just gotta remember closed in the spring and open in the fall.
That's certainly one way to do it. Another IMO more user friendly option would be to use a 12V solenoid valve controlled by a switch inside the vehicle so the coolant flow can easily be turned on or off with the flip of a switch. Just make sure to power the switch with a circuit that's only active when the key is on so the battery can't be drained by leaving the switch on while parked!
My brother did similar in early 90s for his A50 Colt
I know you prob meant a brass ball valve, but the first image that popped in my head was an 1-1/2" PVC ball valve, and that cracked me up for many a reason
I like cheap!
Way cool, Thank you.
As a plumber, we had to test finished water systems to 100 psi, I think you'll find they will do well at anything under that.
The lines will hold, but not if the end is cut off and replaced with a hose clamp. That's why he said to only do it for low pressure.
Chemical breakdown due to petroleum exposure isnt considered by water line manufacturers.
Yep. PTFE braded lines have a working PSI of 300 and are burst rated at 1,000.
These will work on anything fuel delivery related in the automotive world.
I'll give you one guess as to what most fuel tanks are made of or lined with if they are stamped metal.
You can literally buy braded 6AN size PTFE fuel line. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using this line as a stock, it just needs sized fittings that fit appropriately. It would take some bench testing, but I'm betting that an Earl's barbed insert and screw down fuel injection fitting would work without any issues.
I have seen many of these supply tubes leak, especially when they have been bent into a hard crimp for several years.
I once made a cold air intake out of pvc pipe. For a dual throttle body old EFI ford pickup with a 302. Painted blue and had a big K&N hanging off the end of it. Worked great and looked pretty good too. I even sold the entire setup to a guy with a Bronco when I decided to sell the truck. Don’t knock the hardware store for car stuff.
We used PVC for turbo cold side on my wife's old minivan. We did this for fun before junking it but it held 15psi+ boost.
I love this kind of outside the box content.
It's really not, and factually incorrect. PTFE is used in high pressure situations all the time. And is widely used in the automotive industry, especially in high pressure fuel lines.
More like big box
I spent 15 years as an instrument technician, installing test gear on powerplant units, including gas turbines. We used Swagelok stainless braid over teflon flex hoses for the natural gas inlet pressure connections on the GE Aero-derivatives like the LM6000, which burned natural gas at 600+ PSIG and 300 degrees F. Good stuff!
Yep we used only swagelok fitting on stainless hardlines for particle accelerator cooling systems at around 350psi nominal pressure.
You ever do LADWP peaked units in Long Beach ca? The LM 6000 is used a lot in peaker power plant units… impressive machine and the plant is easy to build.
Never did work in Long Beach, but did units all the way from San Diego to Redwood country, The GE peakers are very compact and reliable engines, and I have tested them all over the world. The LM5000 that preceded it didn't have as good a reputation, but I tested one in Modesto that ran trouble-free for every 17,000-hour service interval for years. The newest peakers have ramping guarantees to reach baseload within 10 minutes of startup. I saw one on a flatbed in CA one time, it was the size of a pickup.
lol, a high up (big-wig) got salty at me for asking what "swagelok" as good for and did (3 years after I first asked him) 🤣🤣🤣
Hey Tony,
Tim here, TEFLON is a wonderful thing, used in MANY applications, from frying pans, to throttles cables (Lokar type).....didnt know it cud really take fuel constantly......gets my gears a rollin in my head.......here's a tid-bit of info.....my late Uncle was a chemical engineer for Dupont, not only did he work on the Manhatten project, but was one of the higher up dudes that came up with teflon......every time i use teflon tape, or PTFE paste for plumbing, i think of my Uncle, SUPER smart dude, and had a '69 SS 396 Chevelle, '64 Wildcat (that my brothers raced at E-town), then stuck with Buick, like his huge 225, and a few Lesabres.......just wanted to chime in, and yak some family history with you guys.....PEACE to you sir!!
Very cool !
Very cool history.
Those braided lines work great under higher pressures with a propper barb and the trick is "PEX" ring clamps & propper ring crimper. Ive had a few emergency fixes with this method, that became permanent because it was better than factory. (Works on p/s a/c coolers, fuel) in my experience. I still hate getting poked occasionally by the stainless braided wires. 😅
Lol they won't hold the pressure of a p.s pump maybe good for the return but nothing more
They are not PTFE so they are no good for fuel and I won't even trust them for oil even less hot oil
Dear Uncle Tony, I worked maintenance on a 426 unit apartment complex. The city refused to install water pressure regulators. Every unit had 80 psi water. Those 1:46 lines never failed.
80 PSI that's wild. The tenants could be breaking records for fastest shower ever.
Is there no valve in the complex that can lower the flow and hence the pressure?
It is not the hose that will fail, it is the hose tail/clamp that will leak. Remember there is a lot of vibration when running. Like he said, it would probably be OK at higher pressure, but would you take the risk?
@@auteurfiddler8706 the problem with that approach is under low use the pressure will climb back up to 80 psi. And under heavy use like in the morning when many residents are taking a shower the pressure will drop to really low levels with just a trickle at each faucet. A partially closed valve is not a pressure reducer, it's a flow restrictor. A proper pressure reducer will modulate internally to maintain the correct pressure regardless of the demand on the water flow. Though, 80 PSI is really not that high. It's at the upper limit of most faucet recommendations but well within the specs for the pipes and other plumbing. The building I service has 65-70 psi from the booster pumps and I see no issues with any of the showers, sinks or toilets. Haven't had any of the lines burst from pressure
@@tilliesinabottle80 psi is NOTHING. I have 125 PSI in my house from city water, and I know a plumber who told me of an area where they have 175
Did you pick up your float for the Quadrajet carb on the Toilet repair aisle? 😅
I worked for a rubber company 6 yrs.. there is a massive huge difference between water tube and fuel/oil tube..
the water grade will dissolve in fuel or oil.
That guy calling you out in the background when you mentioned Home Depot. LOL just kidding, it just lined up perfect
You can make your own PTFE lines at home if you get the right fittings. I made a nitrous line out of it and it works better than the preformed lines I bought from NOS. Its a little stiffer and harder to bend than the rubber but will hold pressure up to 2000 psi
My dad always toured plumbing isles in any store we went to cause you never know what would be handy for workin on cars. The one that sticks with me most is grabbing pvc pipe to make custom guage pods. Works absolutely perfect and costs 1/10th as much
You have any pictures of them?
@@andrewtesti not currently but maybe one day here ill make a quick video and put it up
Yepper works well
I've made teflon lined hoses for previous cars before. But there are so many levels that even the regular rubber ones are available in cheap form and higher quality versions. Alcohol content in street fuels can be a concern with older versions of hoses also.
Next up using copper tubing for gas and brake lines.
Saw a flat bottom drag boat this weekend with dual 4 barrels plumbed from the fuel pump to the carbs with copper tubing and brass fittings. Big no no boats especially.
Tony, this time you have definitely earned your TAVO badge of honor. Great info, something I'd never have thought of using.
Tavo?
Tight arse Valiant owner
Or ass for the septics.
And that's a good thing. DON'T use this hose on fuel. The only hose you want to use on fuel is carbon lined. Otherwise static builds up in the hose and arcs through the liner to the stainless steel.
When you use carbon lined hose rated for fuel use, the carbon is a ground on the ID of the hose so the fuel can't build up a static charge.
That's why SS braided hose got a bad rap for making garages sell like gas when cars are parked. Without the carbon they end up with microscopic weep holes in the liner.
Tight Arse Valiant Owner TAVO it’s a Aussie thing
Tony that’s brilliant! I actually always wondered why people didn’t use it. I understand not using it on fuel injection setups at high pressures but for carb setup it’s perfect and a hell of a lot cheaper!
People don't use them because they are not PTFE and won't last a week in presence of gas much like is previous hose that probably failed because it's not rated for ethanol fuel
There has been ptfe AN hose for at least half a decade now. They use special hose fittings that have a compression style fitting. Have used them on turbo oil feed and return lines due to the high temperature resistance, when rubber lined AN hose melted and fell apart.
Improvisation isnt bad...especially for the low buck builds. You do what you gotta do!!! After I dropped the 440 in my 68 Dart, and got the B body headers to fit, I realized i needed an exhaust. No money left, but i had this 2 3/4 inch conduit laying around, so....👍
Hey Tony, You can get AN screw on fittings fro PTFE line, from Summit, Jegs or whomever. I plumbed my fuel injection feed and return line with it to prevent any chance of fuel permeation and degradation over the rubber line.
Teflon has a very high softening and melting temperature compared to normal plastics. Nylon softens at 110C, while Teflon holds up to 240C and melts at about 400. Nylon itself is a softcore aluminum substitute, so cheap Teflon is the supreme material over anything except silicone. Teflon is probably the most abrasion-resistant mass production material, so its likely to withstand a lot of rubbing before it leaks, if it even actually gets scratched at all.
Teflon insulated electric cable used in RF, or high heat applications melts at a much higher temp - soldering iron will not effect. We tested a sample (taken from semi-rigid coax) in a gas chromatograph (think that is what it was) and it started to de-gas at about 900C - and was still intact above 1200C. Did not melt. So what is special about this version of PTFE?
ptfe/teflon is commonly used in 3d printers that print up to around 230C as a tube that goes up to the nozzle and used to be used for holding the heat block itself(cheaper to machine so hobbyists and tinkerers devised plans they shared and they were sold a lot). in the hot ends where it touches the nozzle(non "all-metal") the end of it goes bad over time(blackens) but it still lasts a long time.
it's way beyond most underhood temps. however you have to remember that if you heat it too much it will outgas a toxic gas - it's not really that much of a problem if you don't get it basically on literal fire but in 3d printer circles people freak out about it often.. even if they cook with teflon cookware on a gas stove. the actual practical problem with the 230-240c softening/blackening limit is that if the tube doesn't seal against the nozzle well enough then the hotend starts to leak through the threads, one of the common frustration reasons why you'd find 3d printers at the curb.
a really nifty material for tinkerers. in the blocks that you can machine it you can cut in threads too.
ALL of those magical flex lines are prone to being poorly installed (twisted on normal install). don't ask how I know. and majority loves to be eaten by ethanol/ethanol stacking.
Gates "Barricade".. Avail in carb press and efi press variants... Use push to connect AN fittings and ss pinch clamps.
I used a flexible water heater output line ( steel braided Teflon) for coolant connection from the water pump to the cooling system on my VW Vanagon Subaru swap. Reason being that I had to pass the line through a small gap in the steel headers and knew rubber was not a good choice. Never failed.
My carburetor is now making ice cubes, thanks UTG!!!
As mentioned below, there is PTFE hose rated for automotive fuel injection pressure applications with assemble-able fittings. An added bonus is that PTFE is impermeable, you wont get fuel smell in your car if you have a line that is routed through the cab.
The hardware store was one of my best friends back when I was hotrodding. I used get all my fuel blocks and fitting from there. I'd get the fuel line from the autoparts shop, fitting from hardware - flared my own. Saved a ton of money over the years that I was in the hobby. I didn't use much "rubber" lines if I could avoid it - the quality wasn't as good then. Hardlines with nice pretty bends. And I typically ran some multi-carb setup that cookie-cutter premade lines didn't work out with.
I battled the Tampa FL heat absorption of the metal lines with rubber tubes fit around the metal lines. They looked rubber to the casual viewer, but the pressure holding was metal.
Did the same with the trans lines as well.
I worked at a shop where an old Corvette came in, with the tri power setup. The new (aftermarket) fuel line he put on leaked. So he bought another and just assumed it was used error. After the second fuel line setup leaked as well, I told him I could make it with brass unions and stainless hard line. I shaped the brass fittings with a grinder and polished them, and also polished the stainless in between. It looked really good, and didn't leak a drop. Several people at car shows asked him where he bought his fuel line kit. And I probably ended up making half a dozen stainless and brass setups
@@ryurc3033 Very cool
There may soon be a time where we may need to be creative in repairing vehicles. Great info as usual.
Good idea. I once used black plastic drain pipe in place of the steel gas fill pipe, that had rotted out in my 92 Legend. Couldn't get the part, so had to improvise.
Lol pvc will melt in gasoline man lol
Saw a previous video of yours a while back, bought a roll from a refrigeration supply house, used it from the fuel pump to the regulator, from the reg to the carb. I used a "Clamptite tool to clamp it, and used heat shrink over the clamp. Works great and looks good.
What was it that you bought, Water line hose for the fridge?
elaborate more what video?
@@SeanOBryanZZ Let's Talk About Fuel Pumps, posted 2 years ago.
@@freshbutplain1144
Vincos 20 Ft 6AN AN6 (5/16") Universal Braided Stainless Steel PTFE TEFLON Oil Fuel Gas Line Hose
I use the an line Teflon / ptfe liner for my fuel line as its ethanol compatible. Just uses special hose ends.
There was a local guy who had a 72 Chevelle that had a 4 point roll made out of pvc pipe and painted black.
"race weight"
I use hydraulic hoses and airlines that you find in industry machines , for my fuel lines, never had a breakdown or leak in 15 years
You can buy long lengths of plumbing supply with brass 3/8 fittings that you could easily adapt to
Not only did Ralph Earnhardt put in the "Winners Work" to take the Checker but he had the fortitude to eliminate his competition fairly. "Ironheart" discovered the #6 Screwdriver sold at his local hardware store could double as a bulletproof Axle-Key that just wouldn't break. Then he went back and bought every screwdriver they had and placed a standing order for all future screwdriver sales upon their arrival. For me, IMO. Still today good Hardware Store Plastic Roof Cement is the best undercoating ever made for an automobile and hard to beat especially on the backside of a welded-in rust repair patch or a daily-duty's cars wheel wells. Anybody that's ever seen TONY scrape a cars underbody, underpinnings, and underlinks of undercoating knows he puts out the "Winners Work" or stays on the porch. And last time I checked he don't "Stay On the Porch."
What's an axle key?
@@tommymac3029 Axle shaft keys or just "axle keys" are essential pieces of hardware when keeping a drive wheel tight against a revolving shaft. The key fits into a keyway, the rectangular slot that is milled into both the shaft and hub. The familiar sunken axle shaft key is always square in cross-section, although it may have rounded or bevelled ends to fit a rounded-slot axle keyway.
Oh. Thanks. I'd call that key stock to fit into a keyway.
whats with the large spaces in this comment? like something was redacted?
@@Biokemist-o3kIs that similar to a woodruff key ?
I have a Teflon hose I use to pick up a concentrated rinse agent. Nothing hurts it. Previous I used rubber which only lasts a few months. The stuff is amazing.
I had a78 power wagon. Swapped intake manifold to aWiend XElerator and used copper lines for the water lines. Worked out great
In the scaffolding world in NY city, the caterpillar style roof cars on the roof were hydrolic , I’ve made a million hoses, it was rated for high pressure, and was fine with gasoline
They do make noncrimp style fitting for ptfe we use them for compressor discharge lines on semi trucks. Go to your local truck shop. Grote and tectran make them.
I've ha a 3/4 hose like that on my shop air compressor for 20 years works great. put on on my truck compressor this year 150 psi
As a rodder on a budget, UTG, i appreciate "improvisation" tech like this more than you know. What i'm sure you DO know is that there are forces from within the various racing assoc. & speed equipment mfg's who would LOVE to be able to dispel or silence any info.that would threaten their share in the ASTRONOMICAL cost to "go fast." To them i say.."stick it." To you i just say "Thanks."
They don't want this hose on fuel lines because static charges build up and discharge through the inner liner to the steel braid.
For fuel use, you have to use carbon lined hose so the inside is grounded. If the fuel can't build up a charge, it can't blow microscopic pinholes though the liner.
Teflon hose with stainless braded is used on the discharge lines for air compressor on trucks, oil resistant and good for 150 psi. available with field installed ends.
See this is actually fun to go over. Because anyone can do this anywhere.
Maybe make a series of it. 👍
The problem with the Teflon hose is the bend radius is large along with if you drop something on it it’s done. A kinked s.s. Braided hose is a problem waiting to happen. But they’re very chemical resistant.
UTG does it again👍 I've been using these for many years on low pressure gas lines, brake booster, pcv lines. They work perfectly and add some bling
Bullshit because they don't resist fuel they are pvc hose you won't find PTFE line with end for this price ever lol
He even just posted a video saying he was wrong lol
If you design your setup to use the standard length hoses then there's not an issue! They work great!
There is definitely PTFE reusable AN fittings, they don't have to be crimped. I made up a clutch line a while back using it.
Oh now you post this video after I been watching your channel for years and just spend money on lines for my 1980 c15 I'm almost done restoring... DAMMIT!! Lol.. cheers
The substitute for the proper crimp is a “bubble crimp” pex clamp/crimp ring do a great job of keeping a connection secure and easy to make. I’ve never used them for anything like a braided line but I’m guessing that they work really well
I tried the stainless braided faucet lines. It works great. One tip, if you haven't tried it. I slip a piece of black shrink wrap in the ends. Makes a better, more professional looking installation. Thanks for all your tips Tony. Been messin around with cars for over 50 years.
PTFE hose used for fuel needs to carbon in it to conduct any static electricity otherwise it will fail due to tiny holes where It arcs to the stainless braid. PTFE fuel line always has a black inner core. If it's not black you can t run fuel in it. Fragola aeroquip and others make fittings with special olives so you can build your own lines without a crimping tool.
Glad to see at least one other person realized that static blows holes in non-carbon hoses.
My intercooler hoses are made of black sewer pipe🎉
Love you brother man.
Hi, here in my town there was two tipes of this hoses. One for gas (LPG and NCG) and one for water, made of rubber. Both of them works fine, but for safety I use to change them about every 2 years
You gonna show us how to make a duel exhaust with PVC next? Build a roll cage out of lumber?
Uncle Tony is everybody’s uncle grandpa👌
Thank you for the clarification on that I was wondering if I could use that on a motor build . I work on a very tight budget and always looking for the old school ways . I watch your channel religiously thank you for your tips .
I bought some of those a while back to run my Transmission Cooler lines.
Never had the guts to actually use it. I didn't want to find out the hard way that it couldn't handle transmission fluid.
I used to use fighter Jet hoses on my street car, Never had a problem , Love the A/N fittings.
Ptfe doesn't require crimp. There are plenty of fittings that can be put on them. Summit and jegs sell them along with the ptfe hose.
I assemble these and rubber stuff all the time. Same process different fittings.
The bad with ptfe lines is they don't like to bend much without kinking.
Next week, make your own brake shoes using refractory cement and old bathroom tile….
A lot of people in the comments section talking some crap LOL. But what he's talking about is the very essence of Hot Rodding. It's a test of ingenuity. Every time I walk through a hardware store IC new options for any hot rod build.
Novicely confused. But my little grey cell's are working overtime on how I can apply this knowledge and information for my uses. And I see someone is indicating proper crimping tools and so forth will make it more viable. I say good day sir, and challenge accepted!
Hate to differ with you Tony , but those lines are PVC and can deform and soften in contact with gasoline.Did some research on what they are made of to be potable(safe for drinking from)
Braided Teflon line is used on truck air compressor primary air lines & see more than 120 psi & 200 deg-F. I keep line & fittings on my service truck & make them to length as needed. I also have some of it on my race car.
can you use a wax toilet ring fora carburetor gasket? Asking for a friend
Next episode uncle tony’s plumber crack will be introduced during the install
I usually just mock up the hose lengths and fitting angles and take it to a hydraulic hose shop and get them professionally crimped. I’ve seen a few of those DIY AN hoses leak and don’t even want to risk it.
Tony's hand motions are like Italian closes captions.
PTFE 😎
I'll stick with injection rated SAE from parts houses. I used it on HD injector pumps on heavy diesel equipment, so I know a big block on 95 can't hurt it
It's about $4/foot
I use a boiler valve with 5/8"s barbed male ends from a home improvement store to shut off the heater core during the summer time . last time i bought one it was 12.00 but probably has binden prices now . put one on my 65 dart , 66 valiant and 1982 dodge d150
I put flex copper water heater lines on my monte for it's heater hoses it looked good
Utg is the tim Allen of home improvement...pretty sure Tim Allen put a few of those water hoses on his hot rod he had in the garage...lol...luv your vids utg!
Hey Uncle Tony, I love it. I will use some of that. It will also dress up under the hood
Well I learned something new! Thanks UTG!!!!
As someone who has been making all types of custom and industrial hoses for 10 years, DO NOT USE any of those residential plumbing hoses for automotive applications. Go to a hose shop and get the CORRECT hose and fittings for the application. He is right about PTFE being a resistant to a lot of chemicals including gasoline. Also the hose might be labeled as 3/8, aka -6, but the ID is not always a true -6 for plumbing supply lines. Just my 2 cents, do you as please to your projects.
I've used a ball valve and some hose barbs to swap out the IAC in my volvo. The one part I couldn't buy new.
A well stocked hydraulic supply place that makes hoses can also get that material and better ends which may hold pressures up to 2000 PSI or more. They will also make them to length for you.
Almost 20 years ago I had a Honda injector seal failed. Nobody had them in stock so I used the O rings from Home depot. Found out they are made in the same plant and same part number. One is $.05 other is $5 a piece. Son is still driving that car today with those seals.
ive used those up to 250psi water pressure for two years and counting as a test and still good. Teflon though not epdm, or nylon liner.
You have to look at the outer braid on those lines carefully some supply lines have “Simulated Stainless “ it’s actually synthetic braid
Yeah, I used that hose once but messed up when I screwed the carb hose to my garden hose,
Nice tip most home water lines are usually around 60 psi I didn't even think about using it for fuel line
I have a 286 sporting a waterline from the fuel pump to the 2BBL carb it's been on it 10 years (yes 10) and no issues whatsoever. I got the car with a snapped 2150 carb filter, removed the broken nipple from the carb and screwed the water line (male kitchen tap end, i think 1/2", apologies i only know metric) and voilà. The other end, female, just screwed into the pump with a 1/2" brass male-male adapter. Fixed. FYI, I imported th car from the US to France where you can't run down to an O'Reilly's because there ain't any (and imperial is a no go) and i didn't want to wait for an imported filter. So hardware store, waterlines section it was. never looked back.
I'll have to keep this in mind, thanks for the tip.
Just what I needed! I may keep 4 inches of rubber for the fuel filter, since the tank is junk. Lol
Uncle Tony's like "no carburetors aren't just fancy toilets!" then does a video demonstrating how to supply your carburetor via toilet connector haha
There are AN type screw on fittings for tefon pipes, so custom is no problem
The convex glass lids for kitchen pots and pans make great custom instrument lenses. Many are already trimmed in stainless. Remove the knob/handle and replace with a chrome bullet.
I saw a custom dash once that was made from a cast metal step from an escalator. The overall curved face (rise) of the step was perfect for a dash and the grooves and 'blades' were polished making for a great louvered look, it was genius.
All you need is pipe fittings to connect each hose together, or to put another a/n fitting on. You can plumb your entire car with these without cutting and hose clamping
HOWdy U-T-G, ...
thanks = Heady to the PLUMBING Department !
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
I use brass pex fitting for heater hose fittings at the manifold/water pump
Briggs and Stratton used to use black iron pipe for exhaust pipe for years so hey why not? 😊
If you use the correct compression fittings at the ends, those hoses will absolutely work at fuel injection pressures (up to say 100 psi). You can always custom braze compression fittings onto a barb so long as the line isn't full of gasoline and you take care to re-temper the tube.
I literally had this though when I saw these lines in true value the other day! 😂
You can buy those braided lines with check valves that shut the flow of water off if the line bursts.
Thanks Tony...
DD Speed shop still loves you!
Tony’s at lowes !
I was going to call a bluff . But it make sense. 👍
My favorite Store that doesn't start with Harbor!