That is the slickest setup I have seen. It sure goes to show that some extra care in the setup can save a lot of headache in the long run. Thank you for showing us.
Really cool design and execution! One suggestion- I would paint or line the bottom of the top lid with reflective metal paint or aluminum foil to reflect the heat back onto the top of the material.
Just made this! Now we see if it works. Thank you and I agree with the comments saying it is the simplest version, even without any real instruction on how to make.
A hot plate! Why didn't I think of that!? Here I was watching videos on these ridiculously overkill setups because I didn't want to use my oven. Two space heaters with the safeties removed, moving gantries of large coils for heating, etc., etc. One 20$ hot plate and done! Thank you for the fantastically simple idea!
Thanks for your kind comment, a friend of mine showed me this idea back in 1990s and I’ve used it ever cents., I’ve improved on the vacuum former design quite a few times, works well I’m just a simple hot pot and a simple vacuum hose
Awesome video well thought out and to the point and clear video shots of everything! Great Job on the professional looking design. Thank you for showing how it works, what you made, and for the insightful tip on how to use it.
This is fantastic. I am making a Dome for my FPV Drone ... and was looking for a solution . The Dome should be PC ... you know so that it does not break ..being mounted in the front and all. Could this same method be used for polycarbonate ?
I've been perusing Vacuum Forming videos online for several months and there are quite a few very nice ones, but your design is by far my favorite for our purposes. I've been planning on going with a 2 piece station with a heating element below the plastic because I didn't like the pull down method where the heat source is above the material, due to heat rising. I can see it being necessary to use the pull down method for larger or thicker pieces, a la Adam Savage's jumbo machine. Your method is great! I really like the hot plate and the frame latching. Thank you for sharing, you seem like you are very familiar with vacuum forming. I just subscribed after watching this video and look forward to viewing many others! :-)
Peregrinus Solutions LLC Thank you very much for your kind comment, it makes me feel good that the videos are appreciated the ideas I liked. Please let me know how your build goes. I post new videos between this channel and Wham Bam Systems channel. Thanks again
Did you ever try pushing down the frame before applying th vacuum? Thereby creating an initial positive pressure. I've seen that in industrial vacuum formers, my guess it is to distrubute the plastic more evenly.
here you go, they are general dimensions, you will have to do part drawings and find the hardware. www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/jg7jbyrm6d9ovqpdyamqf/h?rlkey=pbqemg8ncbjcuu8r63gh7kre4&dl=0
@@ahmedmohamed9013 you would need a big draft angles and start off by gradually expanding and stretching it out some areas will become very thin others will be thicker
@petersolomon3505 Hi i am thinking of making a box with holes in it in the bottm to suck air from them and put a sheet the same size of the lid in top and vaccum form it do you think this is better Because this way there is no waste material
@@ahmedmohamed9013 I am not sure I understand, however, you need material waste, you need extra material around the base so the plastic can stretch before forming to the part
Awesome build, works like a charm. I was wondering if you could do a video of forming a 1/25 scale plastic model car body; I was wondering if the model car body would break or melt from the heat and the pressure ? You would have to cut pieces of plastic and glue them into the window cavities because the plastic sheet, when heated, would want to pull through those holes. If you did a “how to” video on this, so many hobbyists would be truly greatful, and there’s a lot of us. Great job and invention, if you sold them at an affordable price, I would buy one. You should design them in small, medium and large sizes and market them.
Thank you! Unfortunately model car parts are made of styrene, which is the preferred vacuum form material, and they are thin walled. So they would surely warp with heat. With a bit of work one could back the part with plaster or clay and take a casting and use this for a mold if you intended on making a series production.
Great design on the entire former. I would like to make a couple suggestions... I'm not sure the lid is needed. If you feel it is need, consider a glass top for viewing. When you transfer the melted plastic over to the vacuum box, have your heat gun ready to help facilitate the vacuum in tight areas. Place some insulation foam where the heat box meets the vacuum box around the bottom on the vacuum box. Also, someone joked about burning the house down yet. The only way that's going to happen is if you get distracted with a phone call or a visitor; and the plastic melt down to the burner. Consider a timer you plug into the wall the plug your burner into the timer. Time your melts for each material and select that time on your timer. Lastly, consider using a silicon spray on the pattern to help with the release. AGAIN, AWESOME VACUUM FORMER!!!
Hey! +Peter Solomon - I've been looking for an affordable, and more importantly one that works, vacuum former for years. As you know they were once (years ago) quite popular for the DIYer. Anyways, cool. And yeah, pls share all you can. I really gotta have one of these... Thx and thumbs-up!
good design. do you think lining the heating box with something like aluminum foil will protect the wood from the heat? also, I'll be vacuum forming a large sheet of 2ft x 2ft ABS plastic, do you think a simple hot plate like yours can do the trick?
jeth you can use some foil or heat reflecting film, to be honest, it doesn’t get so hot to burn the wood. If you are going to do such a large sheet maybe 4 burners in a pattern would be needed.let me know how it goes!
@@petersolomon3505 Appreciate the response. I'm trying to be a bit more frugal; are you able to name something that can distribute the heat over that area without breaking the bank?
jeth maybe two of these? MegaChef Electric Easily Portable Ultra Lightweight Dual Coil Burner Cooktop Buffet Range in White www.amazon.com/dp/B079T6HJ53/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vkolFbSTXYD47. Or just one mounted to a stick so you can move it front to back to keep heat even?
jeth Super maybe try to mount it to a paddle and leave a hole in the front of the box so you can move it around in circles. Let me know how it goes I am very interested
JAMES TUTTLE yes, and actually a wider draft angle would have helped it more if desired, but I was not interested in the external part. I was making a mold which is only the inside cupped area.
This is a great design although there is one design error and that is with the heater. The heater needs fresh air \ a flow of air, coming in from the bottom and the hot air, going out of the top because your heater will click off when the temperature reaches to accept target so the heat of all click off before it has heated the plastic. For the top exhaust ports I wouldn't do them right at the top, I would probably do them a few inches down to allow a brief heat build-up just under the plastic.
Peter, Nice work. I have a small project that may benefit by such a device. I wonder if I sent you a mold - or the STL file of my part, would you consider forming it for me? About 5" diameter and about 1" deep. It is a speaker cone for an antique radio. Unfortunately the paper cones for these old speakers are no longer made. The finished piece should be in the 0.010 -> 0.020" thickness. dan
thanks for saying so, I use a variety of plastic thicknesses and types, generally anything between 1-2 mms goes quickly, 3mm is slow to thoroughly heat, I also use EVA foam from hobby supply stores for fun soft pulls.
@@WhamBamSystems Thank you for your advice. I mostly like to use this for the windshield part on tin toy models I thinking more like on the 2mm one.? I heat formed acrylic sheet before but this vacuum method looks much more sophisticated. All the best
use some tape and cover about 50% of thouse outside holes. You have far too much on the outside. And they are huge. You want the suction to be in the middle of your part. Not outside your part. And wrinkles come from saggy material. If you are getting tailing wrinkes off the part, your excess area is too big around it. So you can make a smaller frame, a bigger part, or raise your part up the distance of the sag.
Thanks. The part I am making is raised from the table, the wrinkles are of no interest as they are well out of working area. If I needed a different solution I would have made the mold on a platen to concentrate the vacuum as needed. However, the design of my system stretches the level of he frame lower than the platen thus sealing all unused holes.
Coloque um outro caixote na parte do meio e inverta a forma de pra virar direto do lado do vácuo que o Sr. Não perde tempo entendeu Amigo mas parabéns pela ideia sucesso..
Thanks, that’s just a portable kitchen stove top. I use it on very low setting and had only cost me like $14, so you don’t need to spend much. I used mostly 1/2 inch ply wood, hope that helps, still need to create cad designs to share
No, I don’t think so, it doesn’t take much suction you are just remove the trapped air so gravity can allow the plastic to drop down, just don’t leave it on for too many minutes
SY Graphics I just bought a used workshop vacuum from somebody, any brand will work you don’t need very much force you just have to remove trapped air from underneath
Zakary DeLaura a phone stand. Excited to share this item from my #etsy shop: Cool Cement Phone Stand. Fits most any phone, all iPhones, Samsung Galaxy, Oppo, almost any phone, in any case! etsy.me/30XJrcI
I'm 65 this year, born in Kansas in 1957. you taught me something new. great job and Thanks for sharing
Glad to help. let me know if you build one!
That is the slickest setup I have seen. It sure goes to show that some extra care in the setup can save a lot of headache in the long run. Thank you for showing us.
thank you much, I appreciate the kind words
Really cool design and execution! One suggestion- I would paint or line the bottom of the top lid with reflective metal paint or aluminum foil to reflect the heat back onto the top of the material.
Finally a decent-sized DIY vacuum form machine that doesn't involve melting plastic in your kitchen oven
Just made this! Now we see if it works. Thank you and I agree with the comments saying it is the simplest version, even without any real instruction on how to make.
How did it go for you, I just realized I never saw this
A hot plate! Why didn't I think of that!? Here I was watching videos on these ridiculously overkill setups because I didn't want to use my oven. Two space heaters with the safeties removed, moving gantries of large coils for heating, etc., etc. One 20$ hot plate and done! Thank you for the fantastically simple idea!
Thanks for your kind comment, a friend of mine showed me this idea back in 1990s and I’ve used it ever cents., I’ve improved on the vacuum former design quite a few times, works well I’m just a simple hot pot and a simple vacuum hose
would an old waffle maker work?
Awesome video well thought out and to the point and clear video shots of everything! Great Job on the professional looking design. Thank you for showing how it works, what you made, and for the insightful tip on how to use it.
thank you for the kind word, happy it was helpful!
Sweet set up. Turning the vacuum on after the plastic is on the mold will create a better finish.
Oh, I need this. The hot plate! That's so smart.
Going Ape Costume thank you!
This is fantastic.
I am making a Dome for my FPV Drone ... and was looking for a solution .
The Dome should be PC ... you know so that it does not break ..being mounted in the front and all.
Could this same method be used for polycarbonate ?
@@nevillecreativitymentor absolutely, if you want it very clear you must polish the mold well though!
Great machines great video as well
I've been perusing Vacuum Forming videos online for several months and there are quite a few very nice ones, but your design is by far my favorite for our purposes. I've been planning on going with a 2 piece station with a heating element below the plastic because I didn't like the pull down method where the heat source is above the material, due to heat rising. I can see it being necessary to use the pull down method for larger or thicker pieces, a la Adam Savage's jumbo machine. Your method is great! I really like the hot plate and the frame latching. Thank you for sharing, you seem like you are very familiar with vacuum forming. I just subscribed after watching this video and look forward to viewing many others! :-)
Peregrinus Solutions LLC Thank you very much for your kind comment, it makes me feel good that the videos are appreciated the ideas I liked. Please let me know how your build goes. I post new videos between this channel and Wham Bam Systems channel. Thanks again
Great tutorial. Can you please post your build of materials?
Could this be made more efficient/quicker by lining the inside of the heater box with a reflective surface like foil or paint?
That’s a good idea, I’m sure that would help
Did you ever try pushing down the frame before applying th vacuum? Thereby creating an initial positive pressure. I've seen that in industrial vacuum formers, my guess it is to distrubute the plastic more evenly.
This one of the simple and sleekest designs I’ve seen. Please please revisit the thought of posting plans!
thank you Ingrid! I will try to find the time.
Amazing idea
That the reason that i love work with americans all of You are practical
Thank you for this tutoriel., please can you post wich kind of plastic did you use..?
I find polystyrene is the easiest for beginners, PETG or copolyester is second.
Would adding a fan inside make it more even heat?
It is a very good job. Please help me. I have a graduate project on this topic and I want the dimensions and the method of installation
Nice work. I hope you do post your design 😊
Please post your design, it's a great one in my opinion.
Hello looks like a great vacuum former. I know you do not have plans but what are the outside dimensions of your heater box. Thanks
do you want the frame size? I believe I made it to hold 12" x 12" material which seemed to be standard sheet availability here in Usa
@@petersolomon3505 That's good thanks. The heater heats enough for that size I guess? Thanks again will let you know when complete.
@@birddiner yes the heater is plenty large enough, If it really helps I can make plans for it tomorrow?
@@petersolomon3505 Plans would help. If available. please let me know. Just purchased the IMUSA USA Electric Single Burner. Thanks
here you go, they are general dimensions, you will have to do part drawings and find the hardware.
www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/jg7jbyrm6d9ovqpdyamqf/h?rlkey=pbqemg8ncbjcuu8r63gh7kre4&dl=0
In place of hot plate i think beter to put hotgun in hole..nice construction
👍👍🇩🇿🇩🇿
did you drill the holes in 1/2 plywood or something else on your vacuum table?
Yes mapped holes then drilled one by one
Hi
Fo you think its possible to vacum form a box that is 30cm by 30 cm by 30 cm by a sheet that is 0.5 mm without the sheet tearing ?
@@ahmedmohamed9013 you would need a big draft angles and start off by gradually expanding and stretching it out some areas will become very thin others will be thicker
@petersolomon3505
Hi i am thinking of making a box with holes in it in the bottm to suck air from them and put a sheet the same size of the lid in top and vaccum form it do you think this is better
Because this way there is no waste material
@@petersolomon3505
Do you have experience working with PET sheets
@@ahmedmohamed9013 yes, PETG are a bit more forgiving but PET works well too
@@ahmedmohamed9013 I am not sure I understand, however, you need material waste, you need extra material around the base so the plastic can stretch before forming to the part
Awesome build, works like a charm. I was wondering if you could do a video of forming a 1/25 scale plastic model car body; I was wondering if the model car body would break or melt from the heat and the pressure ? You would have to cut pieces of plastic and glue them into the window cavities because the plastic sheet, when heated, would want to pull through those holes. If you did a “how to” video on this, so many hobbyists would be truly greatful, and there’s a lot of us. Great job and invention, if you sold them at an affordable price, I would buy one. You should design them in small, medium and large sizes and market them.
Thank you!
Unfortunately model car parts are made of styrene, which is the preferred vacuum form material, and they are thin walled. So they would surely warp with heat. With a bit of work one could back the part with plaster or clay and take a casting and use this for a mold if you intended on making a series production.
Bom dia amigo qual o nome desse plástico pra fazer as bolhas
good one thanks for sharing man
Any chance i can order from you some blisters?
Thinking about building one for making my windshields for my Ecto-1 I'm printing at 250%,that for the video Peter.
your welcome, if you do please share your photo of your build!
Great design on the entire former. I would like to make a couple suggestions...
I'm not sure the lid is needed. If you feel it is need, consider a glass top for viewing.
When you transfer the melted plastic over to the vacuum box, have your heat gun ready to help facilitate the vacuum in tight areas.
Place some insulation foam where the heat box meets the vacuum box around the bottom on the vacuum box.
Also, someone joked about burning the house down yet. The only way that's going to happen is if you get distracted with a phone call or a visitor; and the plastic melt down to the burner. Consider a timer you plug into the wall the plug your burner into the timer. Time your melts for each material and select that time on your timer.
Lastly, consider using a silicon spray on the pattern to help with the release.
AGAIN, AWESOME VACUUM FORMER!!!
super advice! thank you, and thank you for your kind words!
Hey! +Peter Solomon - I've been looking for an affordable, and more importantly one that works, vacuum former for years. As you know they were once (years ago) quite popular for the DIYer.
Anyways, cool. And yeah, pls share all you can. I really gotta have one of these... Thx and thumbs-up!
Is 10 mil ( .25mm ) polyester film okay for forming and will a 3D print of PLA work for the form?
DLStarbuck I have never used polyester, but think it could be difficult, Polysteyrene or PETG are nice, can use PLA, but use heavy infill
Is this machine capable of doing on 5mm thick material?
It depends on the material, and it’s ability to heat through with evenness
good design. do you think lining the heating box with something like aluminum foil will protect the wood from the heat? also, I'll be vacuum forming a large sheet of 2ft x 2ft ABS plastic, do you think a simple hot plate like yours can do the trick?
jeth you can use some foil or heat reflecting film, to be honest, it doesn’t get so hot to burn the wood. If you are going to do such a large sheet maybe 4 burners in a pattern would be needed.let me know how it goes!
@@petersolomon3505 Appreciate the response. I'm trying to be a bit more frugal; are you able to name something that can distribute the heat over that area without breaking the bank?
jeth maybe two of these? MegaChef Electric Easily Portable Ultra Lightweight Dual Coil Burner Cooktop Buffet Range in White www.amazon.com/dp/B079T6HJ53/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vkolFbSTXYD47. Or just one mounted to a stick so you can move it front to back to keep heat even?
@@petersolomon3505 I ended up getting only 1 of something similar to those, will try and let you know how it goes
jeth Super maybe try to mount it to a paddle and leave a hole in the front of the box so you can move it around in circles. Let me know how it goes I am very interested
It would seem that if you elevated the piece slightly above the surface of the vacuum chamber the spidering would be minimized.
JAMES TUTTLE yes, and actually a wider draft angle would have helped it more if desired, but I was not interested in the external part.
I was making a mold which is only the inside cupped area.
This is a great design although there is one design error and that is with the heater.
The heater needs fresh air \ a flow of air, coming in from the bottom and the hot air, going out of the top because your heater will click off when the temperature reaches to accept target so the heat of all click off before it has heated the plastic.
For the top exhaust ports I wouldn't do them right at the top,
I would probably do them a few inches down to allow a brief heat build-up just under the plastic.
thanks, Ill try some holes, but never had that plate cut out before,
Hi, looks like a good design, did you ever get to post the plans?
Edward Haworth I really need to do it! Check back soon!
Please share the plans, Thanks
cover the inside of that lid with foil, it might work faster.
Ótima dica de máquina vacum formg
Peter, Nice work. I have a small project that may benefit by such a device. I wonder if I
sent you a mold - or the STL file of my part, would you consider forming it for me?
About 5" diameter and about 1" deep. It is a speaker cone for an antique radio. Unfortunately
the paper cones for these old speakers are no longer made. The finished piece should be in the
0.010 -> 0.020" thickness. dan
Hi Daniel, I dont do print services, but I can do you a favor. send to technical@whambamsystems.com
thanks
Great video I have to build something like this. What was the thickness of the sheet?
thanks for saying so, I use a variety of plastic thicknesses and types, generally anything between 1-2 mms goes quickly, 3mm is slow to thoroughly heat, I also use EVA foam from hobby supply stores for fun soft pulls.
@@WhamBamSystems Thank you for your advice. I mostly like to use this for the windshield part on tin toy models I thinking more like on the 2mm one.? I heat formed acrylic sheet before but this vacuum method looks much more sophisticated. All the best
use some tape and cover about 50% of thouse outside holes. You have far too much on the outside. And they are huge. You want the suction to be in the middle of your part. Not outside your part.
And wrinkles come from saggy material. If you are getting tailing wrinkes off the part, your excess area is too big around it. So you can make a smaller frame, a bigger part, or raise your part up the distance of the sag.
Thanks. The part I am making is raised from the table, the wrinkles are of no interest as they are well out of working area. If I needed a different solution I would have made the mold on a platen to concentrate the vacuum as needed. However, the design of my system stretches the level of he frame lower than the platen thus sealing all unused holes.
Coloque um outro caixote na parte do meio e inverta a forma de pra virar direto do lado do vácuo que o Sr. Não perde tempo entendeu Amigo mas parabéns pela ideia sucesso..
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
Hello Peter.
Very nice work. As a heater what did you used ?
What do you suggest (dimensions, watts,etc..)
Thanks a lot
Thanks, that’s just a portable kitchen stove top. I use it on very low setting and had only cost me like $14, so you don’t need to spend much.
I used mostly 1/2 inch ply wood, hope that helps, still need to create cad designs to share
@@petersolomon3505 Thanks a lot
thank you sir for this video is the best video I have seen the explanation is superb thank you again
Jose Lacera you are welcome! Thank you for the kind words!
Thanks full video ❤❤❤
boke.mama.indonesia
Please post plans
Can you give some dimentions please?
Seems like a little much with the carrying the box. It could of just been the sheet.
Hey, can you share how thick is your PETG?
What is the thickness of this material?
Dear sir what is the material of paper
do you mean the plastic, I usually use PS, sometimes PETG, sometimes Acrylic, also EVA foam sheets
Sensacional parabéns...
can i damage my vacuum cleaner by doing this?
No, I don’t think so, it doesn’t take much suction you are just remove the trapped air so gravity can allow the plastic to drop down, just don’t leave it on for too many minutes
Very good ideas ! Congratulations
thank you sir!
How can I reach you
info@petersolomondesign.com
Hello Sir Which machine brand of the machine
SY Graphics brand of which machine? Sorry I don’t understand.
@@petersolomon3505 for vacuum
SY Graphics I just bought a used workshop vacuum from somebody, any brand will work you don’t need very much force you just have to remove trapped air from underneath
@@petersolomon3505 wow that's cool thanks for information
@@SYGraphics33 you are welcome! Let me know if you make one!
I cant figure out what ur casting
Zakary DeLaura a phone stand. Excited to share this item from my #etsy shop: Cool Cement Phone Stand. Fits most any phone, all iPhones, Samsung Galaxy, Oppo, almost any phone, in any case! etsy.me/30XJrcI
peter solomon can you help plese
то это за материал?
Construccion y Casa Ideas para tu hogar , I am sorry I don’t understand
Wax the mold first.
sale muy facil el molde jajajajajaj
Dios mio.
Why not buy a new one on amazon? It's too complicated
Needs an egg timer
Well it's been almost a year, and still no posted design. Guess there's not enough interest. Bugger! ;)
4FunRC Sorry partially less interest and partially no time I will definitely try to post the designs this week thanks for reminding me
@@petersolomon3505- That'll be swell! Thx. :)