INSTALLING A METAL ROOF // STANDING SEAM SECRETS
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- #metalroof #standingseam #protips #howtoroofing
42 tips and tricks for FREE. DON'T FALL FOR BAD ROOFING!
Why is a STANDING SEAM METAL ROOF more expensive than other Metal Roof Systems? Metal costs what metal costs so Labor is the difference. It is ALL IN THE DETAILS! Here I show you all those FINE DETAILS.
How to install the BEST ROOF. Metal Roofing with NO EXPOSED FASTENERS so you never have to fall off a roof tightening roof screws again.
If your installer is cutting corners, I will show you the difference between just working for the money or working for a good reputation!
The small details that make the difference also make for the best look and durability.
Do you want bees, wasps, dirt and weather in your roof? Of course not so why are so many contractors skipping these important details?
We build MODERN MOUNTAIN HOMES and CABINS. The SHED roof, or SINGLE SLOPE roof is always used for it's MODERN character.
This is THE ONLY video on UA-cam explains SINGLE SLOPE STANDING SEAM Metal Roofing DETAILS and how you can do it yourself.
My buddy Antonio conquers his fear of heights on his first roof!
More Pro Tips:
NEVER wear work boots on a Metal Roof, Wear Sneakers only. Grip, No scratches.
ALWAYS install panels working toward the prevailing wind. You can loose only one panel at a time instead of all of the panels in a domino effect.
USE an Underlayment that won't melt and stick to your Standing Seam panels and restrict expansion/contraction.
WEAR Ruberized GLOVES! Finger prints are where rust will appear first on a metal panel.
ALL the BEST Metal Roofing Details for FREE!
have you seen any of the european tools for metal work, the rollers and stuff? I see you have a nice set of hand benders but those snips are not what the europeans use even us kiwis use the reds and greens together (they cut left and right)
Excellent demonstration! Thank you.
Thank you
Excellent explanation of the details. Other videos do not show the important critical steps with the simple execution. I have done metal drop ceilings on and off over the years and we do mostly use the "yellow" snips.
You could say:"Ceiling guys don't cut corners in their work". Good Bumper Sticker
😅
right well the yellows are 'straights' the reds are left hand cut and the green handles right hand cut 👌 all aviation snips are colour coded
I’ve seen other videos going over this but they go so fast and don’t explain a lot of the whys for what they’re doing. Thanks for slowing it down and taking time with camera work to make it much more clear. Saving this one for our house build where I will be doing the metal roof
Kind words, Thank you. Please document your build.
GEEZ, after watching a dozen of these things WHICH one is correct or best?? Thanks for the production
If you are doing the work yourself there are more steps to Standing seam than "R" panels. So more time involved(I say Invested) with Standing seam. Hidden fasteners on Standing seam don't require getting up on the roof every couple years to re-screw down like wide panels, so less maintenance. Not so cool when you are 70 years old, right? So metal costs what metal costs. Meaning either style has a similar material cost. I do use both. Paying for the labor makes a difference and Contractors jack the price for Standing Seam just cause they can. Just did my shop with wide "r-Panel" but for long term Standing Seam will always look better and resale better.
Thanks for that input, yep now dealing with standard metal roof, replacing loose backed out screws with the larger O.D. of the "repair screws" and have even found another screw with a thicker modified washer I may try, IF I had the lean 2 type roof I might would attempt the standing seam, BTW, if you had the exposed fastener roof how often would you check the screws?? Every 6 months, yearly? Just after a huge storm? I'm in North Florida@@ModernMountainLiving
@@REVNUMANEWBERN Expansion the length of the panels from heat/cold events is what backs the screws out. 3/8” is common movement for a 20’ length. Checking every two years is routine. In your case I would schedule before hurricane season.
I'm building a tiny house and am teaching myself every step in the process. You sir are the only person that covers the specific situation of sealing a non-gable single slope termination on a standing seam metal roof. I've been stressing about that detail for the better part of a week and thanks to you I have a clear path forward. You're a legend sir!
Cool, you made my day
some manufacturers (NuRay) offer a thick compressible foam that will install far faster than the z-bar and not have edges that need caulk sealing.
Wish you had several videos on this subject from start to finish. Especially like to know what to do when the roof may no be exactly square or when working with existing older construction.
Also, what weight metal and what type of finishes you selected.
Appreciated this type of video for the straightforward, no BS information.
I use 24 and 26 gauge but never 29 ga. This cabin was when Crinkle finish just came out and I had to have it. The cabin was to replicate the 100 yr old mining structures of the area and the crinkle refracted light rather than look new and shiney. Regarding out of square...I am installing a metal roof on our 96yr old cabin tomorrow. Nothing is square so there will be lots of "pushing and pulling panels" to fool the eye. Thanks for the kind words.
If a panel, say mid-roof, needs replacing, doesn't this require removing all the panels that were installed after it on that plane of the roof?
Isn't this a drawback of the raised seam metal roof system?
With snaplok panels just pop the one you need and the one preceding it to unscrew the clasps.
Well Done Workmanship
Patient and professional
Much gratitude.
Many thanks!
Watched it with joy. His voice is just lovely and easy to listen to - my wife agrees also! Thanks for the great video and greetings from Derbyshire, UK 🇬🇧
Kind words from across the sea, very nice. Thank you.
Hello mr... 💪💪👍👍👍👍👍good
I'm stuck at the only thing this video doesn't cover - the gable/rake flashings. Not sure what to do with them where they meet the eaves and the ridge cap.
Build a box to fill the gap on the bottom and tuck'm under the Ridge cap. Sorry I missed that. On that project I did a hem all the way down the length of the panel and wrapped the "D" Drip edge. It is the hard way.
you should get yourself left and right offset pairs of snips to have your work look way cleaner, then just by using one side snips.
Life lesson in Grade school when they hand a Left Hander some Right handed Scissors. Since I am Left handed adapting is second nature. I write, Weld and Play Guitar both Left and Right handed. Thanks for watching.
i need you to make a video on how to lap the joint on the ends of the 10 foot runs of high end and starter piece for standing seam, where they overlap for long runs. butt joint you might say.
After years of suppliers All crating my standing seam custom orders I finally ran into one and now others that would rather come to your site with their machine on a trailer and produce each panel to length as needed. For the same price this is to the advantage of both parties because shipping these panels (face to face) is where you get the most damage rubbing into each other.
Yes there is a way to overlap panels but should not be necessary as I have seen 60' panels so there would be no breaks. Call around I had a supplier willing to drive 2.5 hours to my remote site for the same price.
I like how an all was used like that to make holes on the ridge dams for... let me guess wood grip pancakes,.. obviously i guess, and a ridge flashing that actually locks into z- damns, ive never seen anyone who does that probly because nobody trusts their crews to install them correctly
Yep, I am the crew.
Click system is pure shit.... anybody can do that... even Canadians
Since they gave up their guns without a fight, everyone is taking aim at them.
What brand of metal roof do you use? Who is the supplier?
Skyline Metal in Monte Vista Colorado or IBEX in Idaho(one is Amish, other is Minninite) Central Texas Metal Supply in Austin Texas. All three are Great Companies with INTEGRITY with the bonus of being less than Metal Mart.(Background music: Never Again, Nickleback)
Hello, thank you for all those explanations, in my house I currently have a roof with tiles, it is almost 30 years old, it still looks good but I plan to install the metal roof similar to this one that you are installing and I would like to know those panels and other parts where can I get them? Do they have to have some specification, caliber (thickness) of the sheet? . I would appreciate any information.
While the wider(36") "R" panels are most common and used for commercial use, most "metal roofing supply" companies will be able to form "Standing Seam" panels also. A word of warning: some suppliers will come to your site and roll them out there to avoid crating them as they are difficult if not impossible to transport not crated with out major damage. Onsite is an advantage to you and to the supplier. ACE roofing supply and METAL SALES are nationwide but I don't use them.
Guage thickness is 26GA but if you have a perfectly flat OSB or Plywood decking 29GA is cheaper but damages easily. My current shop has 24GA which most shops can't produce.
Jaun, if you tell me town I will try to track down a recommended supplier. Your tile roof is popular in the Southwest from El Paso, Phoenix and Palm Springs since them hold up to the Extreme Sun temps and where you don't have much threat of hail. Remember the panels will expand/contract but Standing Seam are designed for this as the screw down type don't do well. After I respond for your town delete your message if you like. Thanks
What’s you use to make the seam? Or is this that click lock stuff?
This is the "Clip" Snaplock panels I prefer because they don't bind up with thermal changes. The screw down Snaplock panels will oil can if a long panel with expansion contraction. To have used the double brake lock standing seam panels on this site I would have to purchase the machines for rolling the seams which cost 3 times the panels. This site is 4 1/2 hour drive from the nearest crew with those rollers and believe me they will not rent them at any cost. Thanks Nick
Great stuff!! Found you through your neighbors, chasing freedom homestead. Is there a place on your website where I can ask some specific Qs about my cabin build in central Idaho?
Dave, Thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/uwI-5gVhiLg/v-deo.html This was a "Private " vid from years ago that I did for Good Simple Living. They asked advice on SIPs and I helped them with their concrete foundation first. I only released this after they finished their house. You can email modernmountainliving@gmail.com
Not necessarily best practice on the Z Closures or Pipe Boot. Zs in the mountains need many fasteners for compression and for the down force of the monolithic snow sheet. Pipe boots should get a pipe clamp so they dont turn inside out. I like it though!
I like the Pipe clamp idea, that would work. I have had inspectors mandate No silicone of boot to pipe so it can move. We sold a house once thru a VA loan and hours before closing they mandated silicone on all boots to pipe. I flew into town, didn't have a ladder so I climbed the fence to get on roof. When done, going back down, the fence gave way and I landed on my back breaking what are "Subjuxed Ribs" they still affect my breathing once in while after 12 years. I don't silicone pipes anymore.
Im planning a shed roof build with a metal standing seam roof. This content is amazing, thank you!
Go knock it out, Austin.
I like the way he explains procedures, very straight forward.
Somethings just need to be said, not hidden. When I started roofing in 1984, NOBODY would let their secrets be known. I did this for those that want to "do it right and have the best" Thanks for watching.
Nice detail, but that roof has no venting.
You are correct, a few reasons why. Unlike in humid Central Texas here at 9000' there is little humidity and temps range from -35 to 82F. I might should mention this is a 8.5" Urethane SIPs roof without an attic.
Could use soffit venting and ridge venting and save yourself any vents on the roof.
I could not have done my shed roof without this video. Thanks for the standing seam secrets!
Makes it all worth making it if it helps someone. Thanks
I see you have some older footage that you're now getting to use. I'm glad you're getting a chance to use it. Plus, it's fun to see the difference in facial hair. 🤣
Part of my Way Back Wednesday series.
Short but sweet vid for today. ua-cam.com/users/shortsZyG8HsHEO5E?feature=share
Great great video you get to the meat of the things and important things and you let you see from a distance how you're doing not so close you can't see the whole operation excellent excellent video thumbs up
It’s nice to see an actual person who knows what he’s doing! Great job and nice work!
Thanks so much, hope you joined the Team here.
What brand/manufacturer is the panel used there? I like the finish and flat center section.
Ask around for the Crinkle Finish. I used it so the house looked old and not shiny. Another request is for NO striations in the panels. I like the clean look. Most roofing companies like the striated panels as it hides many flaws where the smooth can "oil can" on a bad install or uneven surface. Some like to get the job done quick and get the money. I just want it to be right. If you are in CO I can give a supplier and one to avoid.
Hello my frend. I'm watching your video, have a nice day.❤❤❤
Howdy from the other side of the world. I like how you make videos.
Great demo. I thought about standing seam, but was able to get 7000 sq feet of regular tin for free.
Nice, you had me at FREE. Nuff Said.
Very well explained.. Thanks for sharing
I hope it helps, Thanks.
Thanks, I learned a lot!
Thank you, and cool channel name
Kickass video dude. Love it
Thanks so much
VENTING: im building a single-slope roof in KC area, i'd like put on a standing seam metal roof so i don't have to touch it for 40 years. how did you vent it?? the horizontal perlin's block any venting up between trussess...
Venting, sounds like a "Cold" roof? Purlins sounds like open to attic without being deck with sheathing, right?
Personally I don't "Cold" roof in snow country (snow load) like I did in Texas for the heat. Two(2) standing seam systems: direct screws to length of panel and my preferred is panels secured by clips.
To answer the question: Standing seam with clips allow the panel to expand and contract without oil canning from binding up. Purlins are not needed on a decked roof since the clips allow for the heat expansion. Attic ventilation is addressed in each bay by convection in the top and bottom soffit. BTW, roof in video is a R-54 SIPs panel system. No attic or venting.
Use a 1/8 drill bit and drill vent holes in your z bar for air flow, if worried about water then you can put cobra vent behind the z bar
Yep, that would be a lot of work. I don't silicone the Z bar sides for that very reason. If it can't breathe, it will die. Thanks@@bjacoboski12
Really liked the vid. All the tips were great. But when the “water” was applied to smooth out the lexsal I became a subscriber.
Keeping the old spit shine alive. Thanks
What brand of roofing did you use?
Melissa, since I was going for an old miner's cabin that was into Modern Design I didn't want it to look New and Shiney. The "Crinkle" finish had just come out so I had to have it. This is a 1 1/2" 26 gauge SnapLock standing seam with Bracket hold downs in a Chocolate Brown. I like "non-striated" panels for a smooth look. Even with the longest 27' panels over the garage there is no oil canning. In snow country the sooner the taller and dark ribs get exposed thru the snow the sooner it starts to melt and slide off roof. Once the wind uncovers a bit of dark color the sun heats it up. With the extreme difference in temps at 9000' nail flange panels can oil can where the panels slide with brackets. Were you asking who I bought the panels from in Colorado? Thank you.
If Lou Diamond Phillips did your roof, he would look like this 🙂
New one to me. I hear Audie Murphy, Dwight Youkim and John Denver most of the time. You wouldn't say that if you saw me today. ua-cam.com/video/kaN9CaZ-Zbk/v-deo.htmlsi=EltmxESRoGRdfjsW Thanks for watching.
Came over from chasing freedom homestead😊 I'm in Tennessee love all my Idaho Channels
Thanks for coming by Mary. Fond memories of Tennessee.
Dude! You’re a rockstar! Thank you 🙏 ❤
You D' Rock Star. I gave that up long ago.
Great comprehensive video! From your neighbor in Idaho, thank you
Thanks for watching!
Why not put the butle tape onto the 10 ft section. Then cut it?
I guess you could. Could be messy dealing with the tape in the shears. If the wax paper comes off the butte tape then it will stick to anything but it is an option.
why not pig ear the tops of the sheets so theyre fully closed off ? and can add an extra fold onto that to hook your barge/ridge
You could. Since they are covered is it a benefit equal to the additional work?
@@ModernMountainLiving eliminates relying on silicone and not penetrating the tray/sheet
Water intrusion mitigation is a fine art. I am from the "If it can't breathe, it will die(rot)" school. Be it driving rain, snow, humidity or just condensation, if it gets in I want it to go away. Different regions require different methods so I chose not to discuss silicone/ Lexol at the top. Good point. Thanks( and for your service)@@TheThejarhead101
@@ModernMountainLiving I also agree , it needs to breathe to prevent rot etc , and there is a really good way of doing it without using fixings and penetrating , it’s different all over the world though depends on manufacturer product , angle seem would be a big no no doing that
ikr and who ever heard of the wuku tool or disc roller 🤷♂
what awl is that? looks really handy
That Awl was in a box of tools I bought from an Estate Sale 15 years ago. I use it all the time. Thanks for watching in Romania.
What difference would it make in using the awl vs not using it? So the z-bar doesn’t move when screwing?
Aahh! Spit! Just playing. Good info!