Hey Michael, I have watched many videos of the installation of standing seam and I have to say that you are truly on point. I have been installing SS since about 1985 and presently own 3 different machines. Standing seam is all about clean lines and symmetry and you certainly have that under control. Hooked panels, folded tabs on the legs, hooked valleys. There are a lot of hacks out there but you are not one of them. I'm not easily impressed but your work looks top notch.
Tape on that cleat goes on painted side. Now u have the white showing under the cleat. I know cnt see it much but you can see it. Painted side is suppose to be pointing down so thats what u see with the small rise the cleat has on it.
I'm a maintenance mechanic supervisor never installed a metal roof before, maybe in the future But I always appreciate a good thick of the trade, THANK YOU FOR SHARING THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME
Nice to see someone else know how to do it correct! Always lock gutter edge on hookstrip instead of putting a gasket screw through a nice looking panel and use cleats in valleys and transition and z strip under cap and transition!
I notice you did not bend the tops of the panels up at the tops. I did a standing seam metal roof (snap lock/champion roofing) about 10 years ago and the OEM told us to cut notches on the top of each course and use the bender to bend up the very top lip at a 90 degree angle. Then use a high quality caulking and seal off the two inside corners. Then bring the Ridge Cap down over the 90 degree bend up areas and use neoprene washered fasteners to secure the Ridge Cap down thru the tops of the standing seams. It held great. The 90 degree bend ups prevented strong winds from blowing water up under the Ridge Cap and coming in on the very top where the two opposing sides of the roof met. Don't let anyone tell you water won't run uphill regardless of grade. Think hurricanes!!! The roof is holding up fine...no complaints from the PHD engineer who paid me $1,264,500 for the place. I was wonder if and why the technology has changed? Seemed like a good system?
Jack, At the ridge we use a piece of Z bar flashing just like what's done here with the transition flashing. The Z bar has a 3/8 butyl tape under it and we seal at the ribs with geocell. We use fasteners to attach the Z bar through the roof and finally attach the ridge cap to the Z bar with rivets. On this roof there are no exposed fasteners at all.
oh I just love crap like this. those guys are obviously well salted pro's. I wasn't that familiar with metal roofing systems. 1) I didn't know it was so complicated to get that professional,finished look 2) I didn't know that if you listened carefully and payed attention you could learn so much. maybe not so much to give it a go like I'm going to ,but enough to enjoy sitting and watching it again. Huge tremendous Qaalpla's to America's backbone. The tradesmen. subbed. thanks for the educational fun guys.
Beautiful job guys... I wish I could have done videos back in the 80s and 90s, so when my contractor said what's taking so long... let me show you the detail involved
I’ve been doing research on how to do standing seam roofing and this is the best I’ve seen so far. Top of the line!!! If anyone is about to do standing seam this is the video to watch! Excellent video!
very nice and clean. I am a roofer myself but never installed a standing seam roof. It looks a little tricky when it comes to a valley or change of pitch. I can tell this isnt your first job but you do good work.
Jon, I have installed hundreds of metal roofing and I too have not installed a standing seam roof you are right this was a very difficult job. Yet we see smart asses like Andy know it all Hass criticizing the quality of this job!!
Huh, "...we mighta turned upside down on ya...". All good, bruv. You practically sold me a roof on this one. PLUS, ya got my sub. That was some great work treating metal roofing right. Dang. Hurricane Harvey just wiped my town off the face of earth. I'm getting my roof right. Thank you.
Technically that's a snap together roof system. Double lock standing seam is made entirely different. From manufacturing to installation. Been roofing for going on 18 yrs and by comparison, true double lock seam roofs are the way to go, especially in the northern climate.
Also one thing I have did in past under my transition behind my z strip is food the back of my panel up 3/4 inch or so just in case anything ever gets past my z strip! U did a awesome job and just one thing I have learnt passing it on to ya! I do a lot of older style true standing seam with turne metal where metal comes in a roll and make it all by hand and double locked etc! Looks nice, good job again!
Little things like that is what separates a professional roofer from a regular roofer taking Pride and making sure the lines lineup that's someone who you want doing your job
@@MandMconstruction it's the little things people don't realize what separates you from Ella contractors in the same business I've been doing construction my whole life basically as a kid working with my dad on my uncle to now owning my own business and I try to point out to the homeowners the little things that make a job looks so much better not saying I'm the best but I did learn from the best and I still try to learn something everyday that's why I like watching videos on different businesses and contractors just to see how they do their work and I know what to look for so thank you Happy New Year
Looks like you guys do good work. Let me recommend the green and red aviator snips from Malco they work the best. Also, atlas 370 gloves ,they are the best.
Interestingly enough I worked with the designer who was one of the first men to design the rollers and machine to produce those types of panels. I, at the time worked for a company called Champion Metal in Oregon. There are multiple types of interlocking panels, but that particular design was ours. From what I can see, their roofing system with their new tools is more advanced that was ours though because we designed those panels over 33 years ago and had not worked out all the kinks. Running those panels through the forming machine is more difficult that some types because of the shape of that locking rib with the turned under lip which locked onto the previous panel. That type metal roof though should not be walked on unless they know exactly where the skip sheeting is or they will warp the panels causing a possible point of leakage. These types of roofs though should be made from 16 Ga. galvanized and painted steel sheets with a lower content of carbon because with a high carbon content, when you crimp a seam, it will crack. A grade of steel with lower amounts of carbon are what is called for, so the metal can be worked more easily, even though it is not quite as strong as the high carbon content type. I can no longer remember the grade types of that metal after all these years.
Man it kills me how easy you guys make this look! I’ve done a couple simple metal roofs with barn type metal sheets and I thought it was a pain in the butt. These standing seam roofs are so nice if you know how to do it
that is a 16" strirated panel ,should be on 18" centers on lading but overall well done on the roof as i have repaied many standing seam roofs that were done improperly . i prefer the 16" meriden lock myself in the hipped panel not strirated .also i dont use rake trim ,i cut and fold 1" lengthwise and use eve trim
Nice Job! As a metal roofer myself it's nice to see a tutorial on the right way. Everyone thinks metal roofs are easy. Most Yo-Yo's would of cut the Seam and run 1 piece. LOL
Well you should do mechanical lock you do not cut the lock you shrink the rib and hand lock it the old school way looks real nice and works better no z bar to leak you are posted to bend tabs on the sides of that z bar going up the ribs and use butyl tape up the sides not caulk metal expands and contracts and cracks caulk quickly
This is what America needs more of. Men that can do a trade with professionalism and skill like these men. Send less kids to college to do nothing when they graduate. We have enough educated morons in America fucking things up. America can't grow stronger and richer without skilled craftsmen making a product that can be sold.
i wouldn't use untreated wood under the metal roof, and even if its treated you still need to have a moisture barrier between metal and wood, condensation will destroy it. unless it a super dry area.
Great vid guys: 16:41 could be better video so we can see how the final installation of the vee where it grabs both cleats works out , but over all really nice, thanks.
Не знаю как у вас во Флориде с перепадами температур, но у нас в Европе с таким вент-зазором, этот термос захлебнулся бы от конденсата. На левом скате двойную обрешетку хоть какую то заметил, а вот справа, обрешетка вплотную к фольге. За заморочку с подгибом и эстетический финишный вид Вам плюс, а то классика на саморезах уж очень убого смотрится. К сведению, в Европе классика с одинарным фальцем, рекомендуется с 10° минимум, в вашем случае, замок нужно герметизировать фальцгелем. Возможно у вас и дождей много не бывает, тогда сойдёт. Двойной фалец рулит 😁
Nice roofing but i just want to point out the problem i'm currently facing. From the research i've been doing it looks like an air gap between the insolation and the roof is necessary, to both stop thermal bridging from the insulation to the tin (heat loss) and also to stop radiant heat transferring from the underside of the tin into the insulation (heat gain in the summer). However it is also recommended that tin roofing is fixed to a flat board, if your going to walk on it it is defiantly a good idea IMO. Solutions i have seen are either to add another layer of baton and then another deck (more osb) so the air gap is under the final layer of deck and the insulation is beneath that or to use 1x4 baton perhaps diagonally or horizontally with notching under the baton to provide a vertical airflow. If heat is a real problem then it looks like you should consider an extra later with foil and another air gap. There is no simple solution, all solutions are expensive but to avoid general condensation, ridge rot or ice dams some of the above techniques should be applied. It depends if the loft space is conditioned (house tempreture) or if it is ventalated and insulated above the top floor ceilings. I have been trying to get my head around this the last few days, there are also underlayments air tight barriers and breathable membranes to consider. It's no wonder so many people are doing it wrong especially when you combine all of that with cost, time and the clients budget. Our house needs a new roof but we have large overhangs and we live at 1000M so climate is very variable. Now just to decide how to do this, i'm still lost!
Sorry not trying to annoy anyone but i have been doing days of research on this because i am going to tackle my own roof soon and breathability defiantly seems to be a big issue both for moisture control and to help excess heat escape during the summer. It is difficult to say as there are so many variables. But i've recently seen videos of houses that looked like they had professional installations but either the heat cooked the under layers in the summer or condensation from extreme cold weather destroyed the ridge in the winter and during seasonal change. I'm also trying to figure out the effectiveness of the insulation as i don't want to compromise it's effectiveness after spending so much money and time on it.
Don't know if you are still searching... but check out PERSIST building system, and see how they put together the walls and roofs. Also, read up on the CCHR (Cold Climate Housing Research Center). CCHR has some awesome information. Watch this video from them: ua-cam.com/video/1leyQtqVV-A/v-deo.html. It is a two part video, about 2 hours long. It is WELL worth the watch. Good luck! I too am designing my own roof.
Buy i insulation. Breathability ahhh it depends on climate but really if from the roof deck down youre good... youre good. Simple dont let running water enter. If jts tight you wont have much condensation. If its too loose you wont have insulation. So .
The furring strips are a needed so the clips screw into something solid. most roofs(especially in homes built in the last 40 years) have trussed roofs and are laid out 24" O.C. some 19.2" OC, Rarely 16" OC, So the clips would only hit some meat every 3rd or 6th panel. Fastening requirements do also depend on the local codes and wind category. If the insulation is to the roof deck then there should be an air baffle between the bottom of the plywood and the batted insulation. The air baffle( which pulls outside air from the soffitts and brings it up to the roof vent) should prevent the roof deck from getting cool enough(in the summer) to create condensation on the top of the roof under layment but even if condensation does occur it would be minimal and I can't see it accumulating and getting under the furring and getting to any wood beyond the furring strips themselves.
So I watched this video and did my first standing seam... the owner isn't happy because I used 1x4 furing straps and it shows ripples in metal. How does yalls not
I am so glad I am not a roofer, I don't think I'm smart enough to figure out all thoes cuts and folds. That is a beautiful job, I am so glad that one fella is a far better roofer than a camera man.
I so need to do this to my house soon. Yesterday a squall line came through with 75 mph winds... I know there are more whole shingles ripped off my house
Should have 6" minimum going up under the pitch change. 12 was the usual. For instance, when doing a copper barrel dormer , you flash up the main roof 12" and solder that ribbon to your panels.
Different system here. A cleat is installed with butyl tape under it on top of the transition metal. Then panels are folded under to hook this cleat. Blowback stops there so there's no need for more than the 4 inches we have here. Thanks for the input. I'd enjoy a video of the cooper dormer especially the soldering!
@@MandMconstruction yes I understand the system very well. I worked with berridge panels for decades. I've installed the standing seem exactly like you did hundreds of times. As a roofer I prefer 12" in pitch change, valleys and crickets.by the way I always hated z channels. Always preferred continuous j z channel.
Have yall never heard of a off set...take a framing square slide down panel til 16 hits on valley ..you dont have to lay pan in valley to mark and risk scratching
I've always wondered, is it mandatory to be a smoker to be a roofer? Also, it seems really insufficient to only be using one screw per anchor on those panels. Just chiming in that's all! Looks great guys
I watched your valley part and was looking at my newly installed roof I can see the clear through the rib on one piece. How much work will it be to have it redone?
I'm not sure. Call your roofing contractor back out to take a look. They might need to replace that 1 panel or rivit a tab over it. Hard to say without seeing it...
Why are the second layer of batten strips bent down to align with the first layer of batten strips in the valley? I also see on the one roof you only have one layer of batten strips running parallel with the eave so how is there going to be any air flow from the eave going to the ridge line?
Is underlayment a radiant barrier? In Florida, seeing more metal roofs replacing shingles, due to heat and high humidity, singles have an effective life 1/2 as elsewhere
even if the fasteners were installed properly, the rubber will last a lot less than if it was not open to the elements...too many horror stories and people having to replace the rubbers on hundreds of fasteners because they rotted out and broke off in pieces do to sun exposure in a matter of a few years.
@@macster1457 im from Australia im in the house thats around 110 years old. The metal roof is around 80 years old and the rubber seal under the screws still keeps water out i have no leaks even tho the roof is heavily worn. I don't know what u guys doing different but a metal room would usually outlast a newly built house.
Thanks for the video and great job done. However, a Q? when standing seam metal is nailed/screwed to the floor /base like corrugated metal, what is the point to use it as far as corrosion/expansion/contraction is concerned?
The fasteners hold the clip down and are covered by the next sheet so no fasteners are exposed. Also, the clip allows some movement for expansion/ contraction. The runs on this roof are so short that expansion and contraction aren't really as much of concern compared to 40 ft long runs.. thanks for watching!
I am not a roofer,,,,other then dabel in some shed roofs and repairs,,,but i did my own standing seam roof with a couple of buddies in 3 days with no experience at all,,,,it`s not hard at all,,,,, my roofing came with a hidden flange to screw the panel down and i installed it right over the felt no spacing,,,In my opinion that gap will allow dents from branches,,,hail or anything hard hitting the roof and i`m in Ms. too,,,Hernando
Metal needs to be flat on osb. You can’t put it on 1x’s every 16” OC because that creates a drum. When it rains the homeowners will hear it bouncing off the metal.
Thanks for your feedback. However, OSB is not a sufficient substrate. The minimum requirements for the substrate is 5/8 plywood. This is a retro fit where we're installing over an existing shingle roof. The underlying roof will insulate the sound so it isn't heard inside the home.
MandMconstruction yeah, they make 5/8 osb. Osb is stronger than plywood. Also, roofs aren’t designed to carry all of that weight by going over as opposed to tearing off. It’s a bad idea made by people who don’t understand load bearing principles. Its extra weight that when applied in areas that get snow could mean big trouble. I have done it every way imaginable and stand by my statement. You have a steel drum on that roof
The 1x’s also will take in moisture and start to warp and twist before their ultimate failure 10-15 years down the road. Just trying to help young fella. 1/2 OSB is a perfectly adequate substrate and I don’t care what some guy in an office with a degree says.
We use 3 1/2 inch coated sinkers to fasten the 1x4s to the framing underneath. It doesn't matter what fasteners you use, even panheads, if you don't secure it to the framing it will fail.
@@MandMconstruction metal roof are rated for 150 mph winds, nails will put out not to mention rust from compensation , Deck screws should be used for firing
I have a question if you had to replace 3 or 4 panels due to tree damage. And panels really damaged. How difficult are they to remove and/or disconnect panels from each others seeing how they were connected and locked in place. If I install from right to left. Do I remove everyone of them to get to the damage panels. Lets say it's 5 or 6 panels in from the gable edge or from a valley.
You can unclip the seams if its a snap lock. Start at one end and run it up the seam. You'll have to remove that section of ridge cap and Z bar. It's unlikely that the colors will match though. Good luck
Hey Michael,
I have watched many videos of the installation of standing seam and I have to say that you are truly on point. I have been installing SS since about 1985 and presently own 3 different machines. Standing seam is all about clean lines and symmetry and you certainly have that under control. Hooked panels, folded tabs on the legs, hooked valleys. There are a lot of hacks out there but you are not one of them. I'm not easily impressed but your work looks top notch.
Patrick Kodran I
Thank you sir
Tape on that cleat goes on painted side. Now u have the white showing under the cleat. I know cnt see it much but you can see it. Painted side is suppose to be pointing down so thats what u see with the small rise the cleat has on it.
I'm a maintenance mechanic supervisor never installed a metal roof before, maybe in the future But I always appreciate a good thick of the trade, THANK YOU FOR SHARING THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME
Standing seam is super detailed work. You make it look fun. Well done friend.
Workmanship is phenomenal!
Thank you!
Nice to see someone else know how to do it correct! Always lock gutter edge on hookstrip instead of putting a gasket screw through a nice looking panel and use cleats in valleys and transition and z strip under cap and transition!
One of the best roofing panels. No seamer required .
I notice you did not bend the tops of the panels up at the tops. I did a standing seam metal roof (snap lock/champion roofing) about 10 years ago and the OEM told us to cut notches on the top of each course and use the bender to bend up the very top lip at a 90 degree angle. Then use a high quality caulking and seal off the two inside corners. Then bring the Ridge Cap down over the 90 degree bend up areas and use neoprene washered fasteners to secure the Ridge Cap down thru the tops of the standing seams. It held great. The 90 degree bend ups prevented strong winds from blowing water up under the Ridge Cap and coming in on the very top where the two opposing sides of the roof met. Don't let anyone tell you water won't run uphill regardless of grade. Think hurricanes!!! The roof is holding up fine...no complaints from the PHD engineer who paid me $1,264,500 for the place. I was wonder if and why the technology has changed? Seemed like a good system?
Jack,
At the ridge we use a piece of Z bar flashing just like what's done here with the transition flashing. The Z bar has a 3/8 butyl tape under it and we seal at the ribs with geocell. We use fasteners to attach the Z bar through the roof and finally attach the ridge cap to the Z bar with rivets. On this roof there are no exposed fasteners at all.
oh I just love crap like this. those guys are obviously well salted pro's. I wasn't that familiar with metal roofing systems. 1) I didn't know it was so complicated to get that professional,finished look 2) I didn't know that if you listened carefully and payed attention you could learn so much. maybe not so much to give it a go like I'm going to ,but enough to enjoy sitting and watching it again. Huge tremendous Qaalpla's to America's backbone. The tradesmen. subbed. thanks for the educational fun guys.
Douglas W illiams
Dougla🐺s Williams l
Beautiful job guys... I wish I could have done videos back in the 80s and 90s, so when my contractor said what's taking so long... let me show you the detail involved
Thank you
I’ve been doing research on how to do standing seam roofing and this is the best I’ve seen so far. Top of the line!!! If anyone is about to do standing seam this is the video to watch! Excellent video!
Lucky I found it on my second try. Won't be watching any more "studio mockups".
Wow, so glad my metal roof install won't be this complicated! Above my paygrade!
Doing a great job, some installers I've seen don't pay attention to those details and you end up with leaks, beehives, wood rot.
Nice, much different than the barn roofs you see going on for real cheap
Lovely work guys I’ve done a few tray roofs here in New Zealand !
Guten morgen Kollegi !!!!!!!! работаю в стокгольме 8лет СТАНДАРТЫ ДРУГИЕ ...В РИГЕ 20 ЛЕТ РАБОТАЛ ПО НЕМЕЦКИМ ....УДАЧИ ...
very nice and clean. I am a roofer myself but never installed a standing seam roof. It looks a little tricky when it comes to a valley
or change of pitch. I can tell this isnt your first job but you do good work.
Jon, I have installed hundreds of metal roofing and I too have not installed a standing seam roof you are right this was a very difficult job. Yet we see smart asses like Andy know it all Hass criticizing the quality of this job!!
The valleys are tricky at first but you just need the right method to fold it correctly
Huh, "...we mighta turned upside down on ya...". All good, bruv. You practically sold me a roof on this one. PLUS, ya got my sub. That was some great work treating metal roofing right. Dang. Hurricane Harvey just wiped my town off the face of earth. I'm getting my roof right. Thank you.
I like that you used both a vapor barrier and sleepers. Nice quality work!
Technically that's a snap together roof system. Double lock standing seam is made entirely different. From manufacturing to installation. Been roofing for going on 18 yrs and by comparison, true double lock seam roofs are the way to go, especially in the northern climate.
Nice work this is what I do for a living over 12 years now and still going
Also one thing I have did in past under my transition behind my z strip is food the back of my panel up 3/4 inch or so just in case anything ever gets past my z strip! U did a awesome job and just one thing I have learnt passing it on to ya! I do a lot of older style true standing seam with turne metal where metal comes in a roll and make it all by hand and double locked etc! Looks nice, good job again!
Little things like that is what separates a professional roofer from a regular roofer taking Pride and making sure the lines lineup that's someone who you want doing your job
Thank you sir!
@@MandMconstruction it's the little things people don't realize what separates you from Ella contractors in the same business I've been doing construction my whole life basically as a kid working with my dad on my uncle to now owning my own business and I try to point out to the homeowners the little things that make a job looks so much better not saying I'm the best but I did learn from the best and I still try to learn something everyday that's why I like watching videos on different businesses and contractors just to see how they do their work and I know what to look for so thank you Happy New Year
@@josephmalinowski6817 Awesome! That will set you apart as well. Happy new year to you and yours!
Nice to see a guy who knows what hes doing and takes pride in his work too. Keep up the good work man.
nice work great video coming from someone who knows metal roofing.
These guys do everything right!
Thank you sir
I've watched several metal roof installation videos. This is the first one I've watched where the guy wears gloves.
I love working, l can watch it all day long.
Amazing video. You guys really have it down to an art. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir
Looks like you guys do good work. Let me recommend the green and red aviator snips from Malco they work the best. Also, atlas 370 gloves ,they are the best.
I love the look of metal roofs and cant wait for the day i have a country house that will get one. You did a nice job!
Nice workmanship. real pros for sure.
Interestingly enough I worked with the designer who was one of the first men to design the rollers and machine to produce those types of panels. I, at the time worked for a company called Champion Metal in Oregon. There are multiple types of interlocking panels, but that particular design was ours. From what I can see, their roofing system with their new tools is more advanced that was ours though because we designed those panels over 33 years ago and had not worked out all the kinks. Running those panels through the forming machine is more difficult that some types because of the shape of that locking rib with the turned under lip which locked onto the previous panel.
That type metal roof though should not be walked on unless they know exactly where the skip sheeting is or they will warp the panels causing a possible point of leakage. These types of roofs though should be made from 16 Ga. galvanized and painted steel sheets with a lower content of carbon because with a high carbon content, when you crimp a seam, it will crack. A grade of steel with lower amounts of carbon are what is called for, so the metal can be worked more easily, even though it is not quite as strong as the high carbon content type. I can no longer remember the grade types of that metal after all these years.
P
Awesome Job!! and Explained very well.! Thank You!
Man it kills me how easy you guys make this look! I’ve done a couple simple metal roofs with barn type metal sheets and I thought it was a pain in the butt. These standing seam roofs are so nice if you know how to do it
Thank you sir
When you do something 35 hours a week, 46 weeks a year for 10 years, you better be good at it.
This is fantastic, especially the valley work and bending the panels for the cleat there. Thank you for sharing!
Look at that clean pouch must have been brand new
this one is a retro fit.
we lathed it out with 1x4s over the shingles And insulation, fastened into underlying framing 20"apart
hi t
years and years of doing it. I grew up with a roofer. some vendors and manufacturers offer a course you can take as well
that is a 16" strirated panel ,should be on 18" centers on lading but overall well done on the roof as i have repaied many standing seam roofs that were done improperly . i prefer the 16" meriden lock myself in the hipped panel not strirated .also i dont use rake trim ,i cut and fold 1" lengthwise and use eve trim
Who is your panel supplier
Nice Job!
As a metal roofer myself it's nice to see a tutorial on the right way. Everyone thinks metal roofs are easy.
Most Yo-Yo's would of cut the Seam and run 1 piece. LOL
62baja09 thanks, and yes you're right, we go behind a lot of yoyos and replace their so called work!
Well you should do mechanical lock you do not cut the lock you shrink the rib and hand lock it the old school way looks real nice and works better no z bar to leak you are posted to bend tabs on the sides of that z bar going up the ribs and use butyl tape up the sides not caulk metal expands and contracts and cracks caulk quickly
But it’s good to see good hard workers out there too
Masters at work great teaching job
Thank you sir.
Nice job by the way. I'm about to do my first one soon
Great video! A pleasure to watch !
Thanks!
This is what America needs more of. Men that can do a trade with professionalism and skill like these men. Send less kids to college to do nothing when they graduate. We have enough educated morons in America fucking things up. America can't grow stronger and richer without skilled craftsmen making a product that can be sold.
Guy 1-"You dropped your smokes bro"
"I'll just toss em here for ya"
Guy 2-"Thanks man"
Hi
That’s right, just clip the sheets to size and let those tiny off cuts drop on the ground .....being a tidy workman says a lot about a person.
Mark Shaw if you step on one of the metal pieces the wrong way it can cause a cut in your membrane!
Great video , thanks 👍
neat and tidy install.....great work... good commentary too!
That’s not standing seam, that’s snap lock. Standing seam has edges that fold over each other 2 times for the seam.
@Harry Ballzac thats a matter of preference though
@@ismu34 you
i wouldn't use untreated wood under the metal roof, and even if its treated you still need to have a moisture barrier between metal and wood, condensation will destroy it. unless it a super dry area.
Nice class work
Молодцы ребята.👏👏👏
Great vid guys: 16:41 could be better video so we can see how the final installation of the vee where it grabs both cleats works out , but over all really nice, thanks.
Не знаю как у вас во Флориде с перепадами температур, но у нас в Европе с таким вент-зазором, этот термос захлебнулся бы от конденсата. На левом скате двойную обрешетку хоть какую то заметил, а вот справа, обрешетка вплотную к фольге. За заморочку с подгибом и эстетический финишный вид Вам плюс, а то классика на саморезах уж очень убого смотрится. К сведению, в Европе классика с одинарным фальцем, рекомендуется с 10° минимум, в вашем случае, замок нужно герметизировать фальцгелем. Возможно у вас и дождей много не бывает, тогда сойдёт. Двойной фалец рулит 😁
Отличная работа коллеги
Nice roofing but i just want to point out the problem i'm currently facing. From the research i've been doing it looks like an air gap between the insolation and the roof is necessary, to both stop thermal bridging from the insulation to the tin (heat loss) and also to stop radiant heat transferring from the underside of the tin into the insulation (heat gain in the summer). However it is also recommended that tin roofing is fixed to a flat board, if your going to walk on it it is defiantly a good idea IMO. Solutions i have seen are either to add another layer of baton and then another deck (more osb) so the air gap is under the final layer of deck and the insulation is beneath that or to use 1x4 baton perhaps diagonally or horizontally with notching under the baton to provide a vertical airflow.
If heat is a real problem then it looks like you should consider an extra later with foil and another air gap.
There is no simple solution, all solutions are expensive but to avoid general condensation, ridge rot or ice dams some of the above techniques should be applied.
It depends if the loft space is conditioned (house tempreture) or if it is ventalated and insulated above the top floor ceilings. I have been trying to get my head around this the last few days, there are also underlayments air tight barriers and breathable membranes to consider. It's no wonder so many people are doing it wrong especially when you combine all of that with cost, time and the clients budget.
Our house needs a new roof but we have large overhangs and we live at 1000M so climate is very variable. Now just to decide how to do this, i'm still lost!
another way to do it horizontally is to leave lots of gaps between smaller pieces of 1x4 so that the air can flow between and escape at the ridge.
Sorry not trying to annoy anyone but i have been doing days of research on this because i am going to tackle my own roof soon and breathability defiantly seems to be a big issue both for moisture control and to help excess heat escape during the summer.
It is difficult to say as there are so many variables. But i've recently seen videos of houses that looked like they had professional installations but either the heat cooked the under layers in the summer or condensation from extreme cold weather destroyed the ridge in the winter and during seasonal change. I'm also trying to figure out the effectiveness of the insulation as i don't want to compromise it's effectiveness after spending so much money and time on it.
Don't know if you are still searching... but check out PERSIST building system, and see how they put together the walls and roofs. Also, read up on the CCHR (Cold Climate Housing Research Center). CCHR has some awesome information. Watch this video from them: ua-cam.com/video/1leyQtqVV-A/v-deo.html. It is a two part video, about 2 hours long. It is WELL worth the watch. Good luck! I too am designing my own roof.
Buy i insulation. Breathability ahhh it depends on climate but really if from the roof deck down youre good... youre good. Simple dont let running water enter. If jts tight you wont have much condensation. If its too loose you wont have insulation. So .
The furring strips are a needed so the clips screw into something solid. most roofs(especially in homes built in the last 40 years) have trussed roofs and are laid out 24" O.C. some 19.2" OC, Rarely 16" OC, So the clips would only hit some meat every 3rd or 6th panel. Fastening requirements do also depend on the local codes and wind category. If the insulation is to the roof deck then there should be an air baffle between the bottom of the plywood and the batted insulation. The air baffle( which pulls outside air from the soffitts and brings it up to the roof vent) should prevent the roof deck from getting cool enough(in the summer) to create condensation on the top of the roof under layment but even if condensation does occur it would be minimal and I can't see it accumulating and getting under the furring and getting to any wood beyond the furring strips themselves.
Tu si sabes my Friend that’s the way to install
Super konstruktywnie też tak umiem . Znakomita praca .
Gracias por subir el video quiero aprender como tu
nice idea sir, it's fantastic, god bless
Water....distribution...technician...specialist
The science is to be smarter...than water
This is snap lock . Very similar but not quite as strong as standing seam.
So I watched this video and did my first standing seam... the owner isn't happy because I used 1x4 furing straps and it shows ripples in metal. How does yalls not
I am so glad I am not a roofer, I don't think I'm smart enough to figure out all thoes cuts and folds. That is a beautiful job, I am so glad that one fella is a far better roofer than a camera man.
Maybe he's the camera man cause he's the worst in the crew just saying...
Good work
Nice job! Can you walk on this metal roof after or it will make dents?? Looks very thin that metal..
Wow. Great job guys
Nice work right there
Good work 🏠
Thank you.
Come check out more of my work at my website www.mm-construction-services.com
Ok thank you 👍👍
really clean and performance good job I am a roofer too but when my amigos helping me they walk over the roof and leave trial
Pretty work
Thank you sir
Headed to work. Maybe I can do some pretty work on a floor that someone u Kno what up
How we gonna make it in this new world? I really asking. I need someone to talk to. Pls help me man
Good job 👍
Thank you
I so need to do this to my house soon. Yesterday a squall line came through with 75 mph winds... I know there are more whole shingles ripped off my house
I'd be glad to give you an estimate. We serve central Mississippi
@@MandMconstruction not in Mississippi
Should have 6" minimum going up under the pitch change. 12 was the usual. For instance, when doing a copper barrel dormer , you flash up the main roof 12" and solder that ribbon to your panels.
Different system here. A cleat is installed with butyl tape under it on top of the transition metal. Then panels are folded under to hook this cleat. Blowback stops there so there's no need for more than the 4 inches we have here. Thanks for the input. I'd enjoy a video of the cooper dormer especially the soldering!
@@MandMconstruction yes I understand the system very well. I worked with berridge panels for decades. I've installed the standing seem exactly like you did hundreds of times. As a roofer I prefer 12" in pitch change, valleys and crickets.by the way I always hated z channels. Always preferred continuous j z channel.
@@MandMconstruction you guys do nice clean work though
I'd like to see how you finish the ridge capping . This kinda stuff is coming to the land of OZ
Have yall never heard of a off set...take a framing square slide down panel til 16 hits on valley
..you dont have to lay pan in valley to mark and risk scratching
Joseph Labonte, yes sir, we do it that way now.
Other then that...looks like yall do some quality work
Hot glue a magnet to your drill to hold screws for attaching the clip.
I've always wondered, is it mandatory to be a smoker to be a roofer? Also, it seems really insufficient to only be using one screw per anchor on those panels. Just chiming in that's all! Looks great guys
Good work and nice looking
Why dont you use a piece of foam to keep your tools on and also kneel on.?
When we do mechanical lock standing seem that transition is all one panel there’s no transition metal
Very interesting. Thank you
STILL NICE JOB !!!!
I watched your valley part and was looking at my newly installed roof I can see the clear through the rib on one piece. How much work will it be to have it redone?
I'm not sure. Call your roofing contractor back out to take a look. They might need to replace that 1 panel or rivit a tab over it. Hard to say without seeing it...
Fuck me. Hold my beer while I start my roof.
well done guys
.....Great work...could you use sleepers vs re-decking roof?
They literally used sleepers
Why are the second layer of batten strips bent down to align with the first layer of batten strips in the valley? I also see on the one roof you only have one layer of batten strips running parallel with the eave so how is there going to be any air flow from the eave going to the ridge line?
Nice work
Is underlayment a radiant barrier? In Florida, seeing more metal roofs replacing shingles, due to heat and high humidity, singles have an effective life 1/2 as elsewhere
Thank you so much👷🏾👷🏾
this is the only way I would have a metal roof installed.. I would NEVER have exposed screws.
even if the fasteners were installed properly, the rubber will last a lot less than if it was not open to the elements...too many horror stories and people having to replace the rubbers on hundreds of fasteners because they rotted out and broke off in pieces do to sun exposure in a matter of a few years.
Aaaannndd none of these guys could do either
It certainly seems logical. I mean EVENTUALLY the rubber gaskets will deteriorate.
@@macster1457 im from Australia im in the house thats around 110 years old. The metal roof is around 80 years old and the rubber seal under the screws still keeps water out i have no leaks even tho the roof is heavily worn. I don't know what u guys doing different but a metal room would usually outlast a newly built house.
I wish these guys would come and do my roof haha
Thanks for showing all the details in your video,is there a certain certification to look for when searching for metal roofing installers? Ty
Great video! Did you have to remove the old roof or did you lay that paper on top of the old roof
Thanks for the video and great job done. However, a Q? when standing seam metal is nailed/screwed to the floor /base like corrugated metal, what is the point to use it as far as corrosion/expansion/contraction is concerned?
The fasteners hold the clip down and are covered by the next sheet so no fasteners are exposed. Also, the clip allows some movement for expansion/ contraction. The runs on this roof are so short that expansion and contraction aren't really as much of concern compared to 40 ft long runs.. thanks for watching!
I am not a roofer,,,,other then dabel in some shed roofs and repairs,,,but i did my own standing seam roof with a couple of buddies in 3 days with no experience at all,,,,it`s not hard at all,,,,, my roofing came with a hidden flange to screw the panel down and i installed it right over the felt no spacing,,,In my opinion that gap will allow dents from branches,,,hail or anything hard hitting the roof and i`m in Ms. too,,,Hernando
Good ideas
Dude in the red has his toolbelt on backwards hes fuckin brilliant. Lol
Metal needs to be flat on osb. You can’t put it on 1x’s every 16” OC because that creates a drum. When it rains the homeowners will hear it bouncing off the metal.
Thanks for your feedback. However, OSB is not a sufficient substrate. The minimum requirements for the substrate is 5/8 plywood. This is a retro fit where we're installing over an existing shingle roof. The underlying roof will insulate the sound so it isn't heard inside the home.
MandMconstruction yeah, they make 5/8 osb. Osb is stronger than plywood. Also, roofs aren’t designed to carry all of that weight by going over as opposed to tearing off. It’s a bad idea made by people who don’t understand load bearing principles. Its extra weight that when applied in areas that get snow could mean big trouble. I have done it every way imaginable and stand by my statement. You have a steel drum on that roof
The 1x’s also will take in moisture and start to warp and twist before their ultimate failure 10-15 years down the road. Just trying to help young fella. 1/2 OSB is a perfectly adequate substrate and I don’t care what some guy in an office with a degree says.
Hope you are using ring shank nails. We always use screws they make pan heads screws for a reason.
We use 3 1/2 inch coated sinkers to fasten the 1x4s to the framing underneath. It doesn't matter what fasteners you use, even panheads, if you don't secure it to the framing it will fail.
@@MandMconstruction metal roof are rated for 150 mph winds, nails will put out not to mention rust from compensation , Deck screws should be used for firing
I have a question if you had to replace 3 or 4 panels due to tree damage. And panels really damaged. How difficult are they to remove and/or disconnect panels from each others seeing how they were connected and locked in place. If I install from right to left. Do I remove everyone of them to get to the damage panels. Lets say it's 5 or 6 panels in from the gable edge or from a valley.
You can unclip the seams if its a snap lock. Start at one end and run it up the seam. You'll have to remove that section of ridge cap and Z bar. It's unlikely that the colors will match though.
Good luck