Metal roof install tips and tricks -- eave dripline string guide
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- In this video, I talk about a trick that helps you install a straight, neat metal roof -- running a string down the eave dripline as a guide. I also talk about the proper way to drive screws and setup your panel by pre-drilling and pre-installing butyl tape.
PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE AN IDIOTIC COMMENT TELLING ME I PUT THE SCREWS IN THE WRONG PLACE. The screws on these panels were placed carefully in accordance with manufacturer's specifications and warranty requirements. I talk about why that is important in this other video: • Metal roofing screws: ... . If you leave an idiotic comment about putting screws on the ribs, it will be deleted. I will no longer try to explain this over and over to people who do not take the time to properly research the topic or watch the other video.
That's an awesome tip!!! I've never built anything before with a metal roof, currently roofing my 30x56 shop. My buddy is a carpenter and referrs to me as "the wood butcher", came over and looked at the side I had done. He asked me who I hired to do it, I said " I did it" he still don't believe me. Keep up the good work, you are single handedly making dummies like me into semi-capable home owners.
I have to say, I watched this just before I started to install my new roof on my old garage and decided to try it. It worked out great. 42' of frontage and lined up the front beautifully. It stayed true from one end to the other. This is one tip I will keep handy for future roofs also. Thanks.
Great, glad to hear it!
👍🏼 good info...
Everyone always wonder what those numbers are on your drill chuck, those numbers represent how deep your screw goes into the material,
Set your chuck before starting screwing where it will not overtighen the screws, it will make things faster...
If you mean the "clutch", unfortunately it is not consistent enough for metal roofing going into wood, due to variations in the wood grain and structure from screw to screw. There is no single setting that is right for every screw. There are specialized drivers for roofing screws that limit depth, but they are very expensive. My preference is an impact driver since you get very fine control as the screw tightens down and can stop when the gasket is perfect without overdriving the screw.
Excellent. I have just begun a very similar structure. Knowing that the roof is never perfect and knowing where you can make adjustments. Perfect timing for me seeing your video, Thanks.
As a Metal Roofing Contracto in NE Ohio, this is my go to method of “truing” up the eave. Along with the string line method I also double check by squaring the first panel with the Pythagorean theorem( 3,4,5,method) . Using that line I make multiple vertical reference lines onto the roof , checking panels as I go.
If installing exposed fastener metal roof panel I always stack the required amount of panels per roof section, clamp together, mark all fastener locations, then drill all holes with 1/8 bit.
This method ensures a professional and ascetically looking fastening pattern..be careful not to overdrive fasteners.
Optional, If using butyl tape / sealant on the top underlying rib of the overlap panel , be careful not to block what is called the anti siphon rib. Fastening the overlap rib is usually done when there is gaps in the overlap caused by uneven decking / purlins.
Good Luck with your Metal Roof
sir, is it better to drill the screw at the low or high spot of the metal roof? drilling at the high spot would seem to be the better location to avoid leaks as less water would be running down it.
Drip line string idea and butyl tape very helpful information. Thanks for sharing your expertise with a novice.
So glad you took the time to explain the screws, I see people still screwing the top of the ridges. The flats are so very much better.👍
Until a few years down the road when shrinking wood and wind have worked some space under and around a few screws and let water in. Screwing through the ridges into properly sized and shaped wood stringers all but eliminates future leaks.
Lumber Jack builds with more strength and precision than most, so he'll probably get away with screwing roof panels through the valleys.
@@OregonOldTimer thanks. Every roof I've ever owned and some friends as well, screwed on the ridges, leak. All screwed on flats have been leak free. Just offering opinion that might help others. Yes he does real nice work.
Another way to line up the steel sheets is to tack a temporary strip to the ends of the rafters to match the desired overhang, and tack a protruding strip to the strip making a little shelf that you can rest the steel against. Very fast and accurate especially if you are alone you don't have the sheet sliding up and down, just toss it against the shelf strip and it's instantly perfect.
I used to do something similar, especially since it makes it easier when working alone, but I found that the rafter tails are never perfectly inline, so it can introduce problems and make the panels wander. That's what got me using the string. Since it's only attached to the end rafters, it's a perfectly straight reference line and leaves a nice straight roof edge. I can look up under the edge and see that the rafters and purlins have some wander in and out, but the metal roof is dead straight.
I'm picturing a wandering strip
@@Jehucurliss2kings The strip is tacked to the rafter ends, and easily straightened before you start the steel by eyeballing from one end, similar to the view at the beginning of the video.
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I like that idea
Excellent description of everything, I've put on many metal roofs but never thought of using a straight line, works so much better and takes out all the guesswork. Thankyou for all the info
So glad I found this video. About to install my roof and I think this just saved me a ton of time. Thank you!
Like tip about over tighten screws I made that mistake and they leak now. After seeing this video will correct my mistake-thanks great video.
Nicely done, Sir.............I am beginning my first (real) metal roof on a deck that I built. I will be using some of your techniques in my build.
Such a great idea, and very good idea with the string line. Came for the butyl tape information, but will be using your string line trick! And drilling through several panels at once. So many great tips in 10 minutes!
I enjoyed your information and It gave me affirmation to what I was already doing.
However, here in the great white north we put the screws on top of the ridges.
This is due to ice damming and the gradual snow melt that can leak through any lower installed screws.
I also pre screw all panels , use 3,4,5, squaring and the sting line. I also use temporary wood eaves stops so the panel won't slide down wile installing especially on 10/12 and steeper.
Good job Jack
Good advice. Learn a new way to align Metal roofing. Thank you.
Good stuff. I had been looking to use butyl tape under the panels to seal the inside closures, so I like the tip to seal the panels too. You even used the same color panels I'm putting up on my solar shed.
Leaving consistent daylight to your string is essential. If you touch the string you’ll bend the line. Commonly when using a string to line stuff up you run the string over blocks at both ends and use a block of the same as a feeler gauge
Some really good tips in there. Thanks!
Thanks 🙏🏽 great video, you saved my life. I'm slowly starting a steel building erecting business, that was one fear I couldn't always get right!
The Metal Sheets are adjustable like an "Accordion" a music instrument. All's you do is put a couple screws one in the overlap and right hand bottom corner. If your Eve is straight, have the over-hang marked on the sheet then screw them down. No need for a string line. I mean you don't see Roofer's putting a string line down when they put on shingles. Shove or pull the overlap on to the prior sheet in place and screw down, then you can push the top right hand corner or pull it up from the center which will cause an upwards bow in the middle, screw that down to the width you want. Mark that on the board below you can move it up to a half inch easily per sheet. It will lay down perfectly flat the ribs can narrow slightly and you will not notice and they can be stretched slightly and you will not notice. Making up any difference to being square with you Gable end.
Three generations of building and Roofing. Age 65.
I like how you described what you are doing in detail. Great ideas!
This helped thanks. Unrelated but I had bucked forks like yours for a long time. Got a dedicated pallet fork and am so happy with it. My tractor can lift more and is more versatile. I'll never go back
Same here, I have Land Pride QA forks and they are so much better. I only use the clamp on forks for a couple light uses now where I might want more reach. Otherwise I hate them!
@@Lumber_Jack 👍
Thank you for the pointers and the shared knowledge!
Great tips TY. FWIW I pre-drilled thru 14 panels today without breaking my bit, must've been a good bit and possibly a lighter guage metal.
Great explanation…going to do my first metal roof on a simple wood shed. Great help 👍
Great video. Very good detail for important topics.
Perfect just what I was looking for.
Great tips am getting ready to do my roof definitely going to use your tips thank you for the ideas
Great knowledge video. Thank you.
Definitely predrilling us the way to go!
This is a lovely tip. Many thanks!
Thanks. I would like to see how the screws go on the second sheet. I have to put a roof on our garden shed shortly. I’ve always put the screw on the ridges. Thanks again for the advice. Ron.
Yes...always put screws on the ridges. Was told this by old timers who built commercial chicken houses in Georgia.
Apart from the ridge cap, never put screws on the ridges. Talk to any metal supplier and they will tell you to always screw on the flat. I guarantee you will have leaks on the ridges of some of the overlaps because it is really hard to screw perfectly vertical on the rib and easy to get off at a slight angle on the covered rib causing a hole where the water will run through even if you can't see it and it is on the strapping. There are other issues too including undertightening and overtightening and warping the sheets so they no longer lay flat. Forget about what the old timers may have done. That was then and this is now. Oh, I should add that I'm 75 and have decades of experience, and Yes, I did start out 50 years ago screwing on the ribs.
nice. this is like "tolerance stack up" in the engineering world
Exactly!
Excellent advice. Thanks.
Thanks for the advice very helpful
Great tip. Wish I would have seen this video yesterday lol
I’m ready to install my panels, I’m so glad I watched this video. The only problem I have now is my metal roof supplier said that since I used yellow treated wood from HD on my 1x4s that my roof warranty was void. Now I find out, what do you all think? Will dry yellow wood rust out my panels? I’m not replacing them, I guess I could paint them but I really didn’t want to hassle with it.
It definitely is a concern -- the treated wood can cause major corrosion of the metal panels where the screws poke through and any other places with direct contact. However, I have put metal roofing down onto treated lumber many times for marine structures. I put down self-adhesive flashing membrane on top of the roof purlins, to isolate the metal panels from contact with the wood. In addition, pre-drilling screw holes in the panels helps minimize issues at screw holes. Finally, you must use hot-dipped galvanized roofing screws, not the standard plated roofing screws (they will rust out and crumble within a couple years when used in treated lumber). Hot dipped screws are a little harder to find in all lengths, but usually available if you search around.
In lieu of all these adjustments, it may be simpler to replace your treated purlins with standard lumber. Purlins tend to be out of the weather and you can often get by with standard lumber for them even when treated lumber is required for the rest of the structure.
Thanks, great information!
I'm using tar paper strips that I cut out for my purlin tops. I read where putting the galvanized panels on treated wood doesn't play nice with the metal. Its for a 10 by 12 patio lean to.
Control line on the first perlin is faster and more accurate. If someone is affaid of being on the esge tham smap that line over building line blocks Just sharing
My panels overlap completely and use sheet metal gasketed screws to hold the pieces of metal together. No butyl needed. It's been there >30 years.
I have never done metal roof. Mostly because I’ve done so many shingle roofs and it’s easy, I don’t have to think or learn something new. Also, all the structures on my property have the same shingles and it looks consistent. But my next project will be a tiny house on a flatbed trailer base, so reducing weight is a priority. This video made me feel more comfortable about metal roofing. One question, how do you walk on it? Stepping exactly over the 2x4s? What about slipping?
To walk on a metal roof over purlins, you really need 26ga PBR (purlin-bearing-rib) panels for support. I used those on my boathouse roof and they are very stiff and supportive.
For this carport, I used 29ga imperial rib which you can't walk on, or it would dent. I never walked directly on the panels, always worked while perched adjacent to them on the framing. To put on the ridge cap, I laid a ladder flat on the roof with carpet scraps to prevent scratching. The ladder distributes
weight and also lets you get to the ridge without slipping.
If you do metal over OSB, then you don't need to worry about denting the roof. But with the high cost of OSB nowadays, that gets expensive (you also need vapor barrier too).
Any pitch over 4:12 is too slippery to walk on in my experience (even 4:12 gets dicey). Need to lay a ladder on the roof to climb up.
@@Lumber_Jack Good advice, thank you. As for high OSB prices, I went back to what my grandpa did and mill 1x6 common boards for roof and wall sheathing . Quite a bit more labour intensive, but doesn’t cost any money if you have a mill. Something to consider.
Thanks for the video, the questions and answers. I wondered about walking on it. I’ll be laying 1x6 rough as well so will be able to walk on it (whew, I’m only 5’5 so reaching would be a problem). Great channel.
My father got 30 years out of his shingle roof on the house and only 10 years out of the metal roof over his work shop. At about 10 years in the sun the rubber grommets leak. He tore it off and shingled it because he was tired of the leaking.
@@troyfall6573
A dab of Vulkem on each fastener would’ve solved the leaking problem. I know it’s a lot of screws but it doesn’t take that long to apply a dab of sealant to each one 🤷♂️
Great homeowner trick for inexperienced installers.
String is great for construction of roofs and decks
Thanks I will try this trick
string line--love it!
Any kind of string line or a particular kind
Good idea with string to keep things straight
Great tips.
Great video content thank you. Can you tell me why people put the screws in the valley and not on a small ridge, looks like for leaks and longevity it would be better.
Several reasons, covered in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/-udLpyHxu1Q/v-deo.html
Valuable information!
I want you to prove my building awesome work
Great job, I love the tips and that place looks from a fantasy book, may I ask where is it from
Absolutely Brilliant 🥳🥳🥳
Horizontal board across the bottom that sticks up. You can just slide the metal down to it. Remove the board when done.
I have tried a variation of that, but the framing is never quite perfect so it was too fussy. I suppose if you could run a string and use that to get the board straight it would work, but now that's an extra step.
Thank you!
Does the roofing material still work if it's not perfectly straight? I think it matters more about how and where you put screws than if it's absolutely perfectly straight? And straight to what? Each panel or the eave or the drip line or the fascia board. Being straight and looking and functioning fine are basically the same if the house is square and if it's not square then does anything being straight even matter
I have seen some amateur jobs where the eave line was jagged like a sawtooth pattern because the sheets were installed crooked. You can hide a lot of issues that won't matter, but a sloppy eave line sticks out and looks like crap.
What is the best way to cut back the overhang on a metal roof to allow for water to flow into a gutter?
Boy, that is a tough job if the metal is already up. Many people use a skil saw (circular saw) with the blade turned backwards. It will make a nice cut but the edges of the metal will eventually rust and the heat can damage the finish if it's painted panel. I am sure there are videos showing it being done, so take a look and see if you like that approach.
If it's flat or 5V panel, a good power nibbler can do it as well. And the nibbler will heal the edges so they won't rust. But they are not common tools and take a little practice to work with. I have a 40 year old nibbler that I use once in a while and it makes quick work of cutting sheet metal.
You would think that putting screws on the higher ridges would be better, with less water running past?
You might want to look at my other video on the topic. It's not recommended anymore, except for a few specific types of panels. Screws on the ribs do not seal as well since the panel deforms due to lack of support.
I always put my screws in the rib. Any reason why you dont?
Some panel types can be done either way, and I know a few people that swear by screwing through the ribs when it's allowed.
@@Lumber_Jack To me the rib is the strength of the panel this is where I want to support it. Especially at the joints. My 3 cents.
@@happyrecluse2849 Back in the day when you used nails to hold roofing on you did nail in the rib. When they went to screws it has always been in the flat area.
R panel it's an option but the video is correct
the only thing I see that you can inprove on is make reference marks on your gauge blocks use those to set your overhang and run your dry line on the end of the gauge .
Once again, the screws are on the flat where when, not if, the rubber washers shrink and crack, where do you want the screws, on the flat where there is a ton of water flowing over it or on the top of the rib where very little water gets to it?
Some people put screws on the ribs, but it is by no means the accepted way and it is not appropriate for all gauges and panel designs. At eaves, you will have 2X fewer screws if you only fasten through ribs. And in locations where wind uplift loads are high, you cannot get proper retention with screws only on the ribs (there won't be enough screws). If you are not taking all of that into account then you are missing a whole lot of technical data. The manufacturer of this particular panel specifies fasteners to be installed on the flats except at the ridge where they are to be put through the ribs (to attach ridge trim). I recommend people understand the technical data and follow the manufacturer specs for each panel type. This is especially important if you care about the roof warranty.
Does that carport even provide any shade? Seems like its really tall with a very steep roof pitch. My mom has a carport similar very tall and that is its downfall as it provides pitiful shade in the texas heat.
Shade wasn't a consideration in building this one -- maximizing height for a boat with t-top was the goal -- but it does a pretty good job in the current location. I am sure the generous overhang helps a lot.
I'm so glad I saw this, it makes much more sense to line up the bottoms and let the gable ends hide the errors. I may just let the panels overhang the gable by an 1" or 2 instead of using the trim piece though. Curious what you used for purlins? Are those 1x4's or 2x4's?
I used 2x4s for purlins, just works out better for holding screws and resisting splits.
nice info what size strips are you using to screw roof down to ?
Would butyl under the rubber washer work for sealing and preventing the washer from coming away from the metal? Could punch out some butyl discs and try it. My 5th wheel has butyl in a lot of places for sealing screws.
I don't believe it would do well exposed to the elements. I have seen it turn crumbly over time when it's exposed to the sun and weather. If protected it would work though.
All you need to do is put a line on the bottom right hand corner of the sheet metal showing how much overhang you want. That is if you're last,in your case 1x4 is straight along the eve, you just follow the corner of it from one end of the building to the other and as far as the Gable-end, having it come up too wide or too narrow at the top of the sheet/s will accordion, so you can push them closer together "the ribs" or they can be stretched and come out exactly where you want it.
There will be nothing to hide it will be perfectly Square.
The whole point of the string line is that the framing is never perfectly straight. If you set the overhang based on the bottom eave purlin (which is a 2x4 here), then the edge of your roof will likely not be straight. The string, on the other hand, is stretched tight between two points and is 100% straight. Following that gives a consistently straight roof on every project, no matter what the framing and purlins are doing. This is especially helpful on pole barns and timber frame structures where building tolerances tend to be a bit loose.
@@Lumber_Jack know all about it. I've been building barns since 1978.
Does the fitting screws in the panel not supposed to be in the high parts ?
Some people like putting screws through the ribs but I always follow the manufacturer's recommendation and in this case it called for screws on the flats. Other panel types are more amenable to putting screws in the ribs.
@@Lumber_Jack I have the same here and they put them through the ribs they said the flats can cause trouble with water
Nice video buddy! I have a few questions, would appreciate if you can help me out.
1.-What is the roof made of? Is that the same roof that third world countries use to roof their houses? Is it galvanized stainless steel?
2.-How resistant is it over time in the presence of all-year sun and sporadic rains?
3.-What metal gauge do you recommend if I´m going to use it in my patio for my home gym? The area I´ll cover will be 49 squared feet
Thanks in advance!
Guess he's not answering
Good video
Thanks buddy
Hi there. I really like ur video . Just one question. The tape is for weather tightness, but why u have to take it off at the end ? Thx
The part getting removed is the protective backing. The actual butyl tape stays on the panel.
what is the tap you're recommending for where there Is overlap? Sounds like "beal" tape..
Butyl tape. Standard item for metal roofing installs.
I was wondering... I am going to redo a section of my barn and I want to just stretch 2x6's over 9 feet. Can you put a layer of plywood over that? I guess I don't have to, but I was wondering about condensation. Maybe I am better off just putting the metal roofing tin like what you have there on top of the stretched 2x6's. I don't exactly know how I am going to stretch those boards. The roof is about 38 feet wide total with the middle being about 8 feet tall being the middle length of the right triangles.
Thanks for posting this. what is the spacing between the 1x4's on top of the rafters?
The purlins are 2x4 (don't use 1x lumber for this) and spaced 24" on center. Regional snow or uplift loads may dictate tighter spacing.
@@Lumber_Jack Thank you!
Put the screws on high points and cut the edge straight with a grinder when you are done.
Those are both bad pieces of advice -- this particular roof panel calls for screws on the flats per the manufacturer, as do most modern panels. People should follow the manufacturer specs for screw placement if warranty and fastener performance matter. And you never want to cut a steel roof panel with a grinder or rotating/reciprocating blade because it will compromise the paint and cause the edges to rust. If you have to make cuts, use a nibbler tool, which will work harden the edges as it cuts and prevent them from rusting.
- Grinder is always a tool to avoid in mechanics, it heats the metal and modify the surface (see heat surface treatment ...)
- Screws on low points; I am less convinced. Stronger fastening sure. But drips of water more probable; I would apply a layer of linseed oil on the wood.
Great video. I was told by my supplier to install the screws on the hips, not on the flats for a roof. You could screw the panels on the flats for a wall. Your thoughts please.
Some people put screws on the ribs, but it is by no means the accepted way and it is not appropriate for all gauges and panel designs. I get asked this so much, I made a video on the topic:
ua-cam.com/video/-udLpyHxu1Q/v-deo.html
The manufacturer of this panel specifies fasteners to be installed in the valleys with a screw next to each rib, and two screws in the valley along eaves and overlaps. Other manufacturers follow the same guidelines for a bunch of different panel styles. I have not run into any manufacturers that specify putting screws into ribs. Some specifically caution against it because there is inadequate sealing pressure under the washers and/or not enough fasteners at eaves and overlaps to provide proper wind/uplift resistance.
So consult the manufacturer’s install manual for your panel type and follow their guidelines. This is especially important if you care about the roof warranty, wind uplift loads, sealing the screw heads, and fastener retention. There are many scenarios where putting screws in the ribs will adversely affect one or more of these factors.
Industrial metal buildings with similar roof sheets we NEVER put the screws in the highs. Never....
I love the color of this panel is it just a charcoal grey? And what size are your post?
Yes, that is a standard roofing color that several manufacturers use, "charcoal gray". There is also a slightly lighter gray color that is standard.
My posts are 6x6.
Haven't done this yet but my plan has been to string at the top. Theoretically that should act the same since the panels are all the same length. I'm rethinking that now but we'll see; my drip edge is about 20' AGL. It seems like it would be easier to watch the peak string than the bottom string since we're at 4/12 and we sheathed the roof.
Predrilling is smart but our purlins are on edge and a little wavy so I'm a little leery about doing that for our installation.
Looks like we have the same or close to the same tractor and fork clamps.
String at the ridge should work too, as long as you can see it well.
@@Lumber_Jack
It will be easy to stand on the roof and see the string at the ridge. Could also see the string at the bottom from the boom lift bucket. We're planning to tackle it as soon as these rainy remnants of Ian move on. Cheers!
I measue up to about center of bottom lath on each. Pop chalk line measure from bottom of metal allowing for overhang, make mark on metal and line up with chalk line. Works real good for me.
@@douglasgraham2101 That is a very good way to do it -- thanks for the tip!
@@douglasgraham2101
I didn't think about an approach like that but it makes sense. Actually for our conditions, it makes the most sense! Thank you for sharing that.
So LJ, to follow up, we got the west side done about three weeks ago. I ran a string across the peak and it helped but we didn't do such a perfect job of keeping the drip edge and fascia straight so the panel bottoms creep a little. It's not distracting from way down at ground level but it could be better.
After that side of the roof we moved on to side panels. We finished the west and north (gable) walls and are about halfway through the east wall. I pre -drilled the wall panels (target window 5.5") and that helped a lot. It was "fun" cutting those 24' panels to fit the gable slope but we got it! Overall we're very pleased with how it's coming out and think it looks good.
We have two panels on the east roof slope (it takes 21 and they're 23' long) which we just "eyeballed". (It was too windy one day to work on the side). I'll use Mr Graham's idea of marking the panels and lining up with a line on the roof to see if we can improve alignment to our fascia variation. I'm stoked now that I have a new approach idea!
How far do you space the one by four boards out, and where did you buy your roofing supplies? I can only find the shiny thin stuff at my big box stores. Thanks! Nice work!
Thanks. I’ve been watching your channel a while. I have a Kubota B2601 but no barn. The tractor takes one of my garage bays. What gauge metal roofing did you use? If it’s thinner than 26 gauge was it difficult to get on the roof without damaging it? I appreciate your channel!
This panel style usually comes in 28-29 gauge which is what I used here. It's fairly stiff because of the rib pattern. You can curl the panel between your hands to make it stiffer when carrying or getting onto the roof (also makes it slide across purlins easier).
@@Lumber_Jack Thank you for the info and taking the time to respond. I’ll try the 28 or 29. That project came out great!
Make sure your building is”square”, otherwise nothing is going to work
Exelent!
Why are they installing the screws on the flat part on the panels instead on the crown or the creased on the sheet. Dont that just increase the chances of a leak???
Actually, you are more likely to get leaks with screws on the ribs with this type of panel -- there will be inadequate seating of the sealing washer due to deformation of the metal. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for each specific panel type for the best performance and warranty coverage, and for this panel, the manufacturer calls for screws to be placed on the flats.
I get asked this so much, I made a video on the topic:
ua-cam.com/video/-udLpyHxu1Q/v-deo.html
Your three Metal roof install tips and tricks videos are great! Details that make for a better finished job. Question: Where can I order (online) Metal Roof Panels, Denver Gable Trim, Metal Ridge Cap, butyl tape and accessories? Many thanks!
I have had great luck with Mackey Metal Roofing (www.mackeymetalroofing.com) on several projects. They can get it shipped anywhere in the US for reasonable prices and the owner is a roofer himself. He is glad to help with ordering and install support. I believe prices and lead times have increased quite a bit in the last 6 months due to Covid effects, so expect to pay more and wait longer than usual. Good luck!
@@Lumber_Jack Good to know. I will jump online to estimate the cost of my shed project which has a similar roof. Waiting for rainy season and the holidays to be behind us here in South Florida, so the wait time is not and issue. Again, many thanks for your tips, tricks and the link for materials. Happy holidays!
Is that a peel and strip seal like a double face tape?
Similar concept but it is a soft gummy clay-like material rather than a tape.
Should you go buy the drip edge if there’s one there?
Not unless you know it's in a straight line the whole way. They are rarely put on with any precision.
Hi honest question. Are these screws better then the Zac screws for roofs?
Very similar. The Zacs with the capped washer head are theoretically better but I've never run into issues with regular roofing screws. The key is to not overdrive the screw, which damages the gasket and exposes it to the elements.
How long you think the rubber grommets last under the screw heads?
The oldest ones I have put up are going on 30 years old and still seem OK The key is to not overdrive the screws and smash the rubber so that it squirts out from under the washer. That exposes the rubber to sun and weather and shortens its life dramatically. I have fixed roofs put on by other people where the screws were overdriven so much there was a dimple in the metal (not good, attracts water) and the rubber was all smashed and cracked. Bad news.
What size are those screws going into that 1x4 ? 1"
I use 2x4 purlins (1x lumber is generally not a good choice) and #10 x 1.5" screws.
Your butyl tape is covering up the rain channel that's under the lap joint isn't it? I can't tell from the video for sure though.
This panel didn't have a capillary groove under the lap profile, however, the use of butyl tape supersedes the purpose of the groove according to tech bulletins from the manufacturer. They show the same position of tape (towards the outside or "wet edge" of the lap joint) on panels with and without a capillary groove.
@@Lumber_Jack I also realized that if the tape does it's job in perpetuity that the water groove is unnecessary at that point .
Whoever built my storage building 100 ft long ended up with the sawtooth edge and it drives me nuts,
The 1st thing rather then straight is to install the screws properly on the high part of steel. You will have leaks on screws soon. Nit sure why some people do that.
Some people put screws on the ribs, but it is by no means the accepted way and it is not appropriate for all gauges and panel designs. I get asked this so much, I made a video on the topic:
ua-cam.com/video/-udLpyHxu1Q/v-deo.html
The manufacturer of this panel specifies fasteners to be installed in the valleys with a screw next to each rib, and two screws in the valley along eaves and overlaps. Other manufacturers follow the same guidelines for a bunch of different panel styles. I have not run into any manufacturers that specify putting screws into ribs. Some specifically caution against it because there is inadequate sealing pressure under the washers and/or not enough fasteners at eaves and overlaps to provide proper wind/uplift resistance.
So consult the manufacturer’s install manual for your panel type and follow their guidelines. This is especially important if you care about the roof warranty, wind uplift loads, sealing the screw heads, and fastener retention. There are many scenarios where putting screws in the ribs will adversely affect one or more of these factors.
35 yrs ago suppliers were telling us to put screws in the rib on the roof, and in the flats on walls. But now every supplier that we use tells us to put all screws in the flats, roofs and walls or the warranty nullified if the fastener is on the rib. But in 40yrs we haven't had a callback on either method.
Can’t put string line at the ends of the sheets ,one little variation and you’re messed up . I used 2 inches off and measured each panel side to side . Done over 250 roofs from new construction to some dinosaur old stuff
Going 2" off and using a measuring tape will be very precise. I usually setup a ~1/8" gap between panel end and string -- it's easy to eyeball and follow down the line. It will force the installer to keep within a tight visual tolerance and correct variations in realtime before they become a problem.
What is with americans putting the screws in the pan? Screws go in the rib....
Putting them on the ribs degrades screw seal performance and will void the warranty on these panels. I always suggest installers follow the manufacturer's specs, not random opinions on the internet. For more info see: ua-cam.com/video/-udLpyHxu1Q/v-deo.html
@@Lumber_Jack fair call. same comment just put replace “americans” with “American manufactures”. Don’t forget you’re a random on the internet too haha
How long before those rubber grommets leak?
Using a modern screw with domed washer and modern gasket material (they no longer use rubber), and properly installing the screw, you're looking at 40-50 year life span of the gaskets. But many people install the screws wrong, compromising the gasket, and they may see leaks in as soon as 10 years (or right away if they really mess up). It's a very important detail to get right.
Nice job... are the sheets Anthracite grey?
The color was "charcoal" -- a fairly standard gray that several of the manufacturers offer.
That tape is so expensive now 😑. Wonder if I could use silicone instead
I normally see it for 10-15 cents a foot. You definitely don't want to use silicone or anything that cures or sets up. The butyl stays soft and accommodates panel movement under temperature swings.
@@Lumber_Jack Roger! I’ll bite the bullet (big picture of the project cost it’s literally nothing, I’ll just buy it)
"Sawblade"...lmao😂
No mention of the measurement of the stringline from any given point
Set it to obtain whatever overhang you want. This will be dependent on the fascia board thickness and any eave trim you plan to use. I like to have no less than 1" overhang of the metal roof beyond the final trimmed fascia.
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The Irwin 5 pack were hardened less than the 25 pack of #2 bits. U can thank me for the emails xchanged which changed that. (Y buy 25 when 5 pk disappointed.) Lowes helped me contact them
The string should not be touching the panels. The roof needs to be square and the gable plum. Properly braced structure is essential.
Is this a particular kind of string line?
Regular nylon twine from the hardware store.
@@Lumber_Jack ok great! Thank you for the quick reply
@@Lumber_Jack I didn't hear you say, but how far are you having your over hang? 1 inch?
@@ShyRage1 I like at least 1" if not 1.5", just depends on what you are doing for fascia and trim at the eave and whether a drip edge is used.
@@Lumber_Jack ok great! Im sure others will find this information helpful. Thank you
again.