please don't let negative comments affect you , we love watching you diagnosing , even if it was a simple problem . we watch to learn how to solve on our own any device not to get a solution for a specific product
(Industrial Power & Microelectronics, L.L.C. here) SHHH! Don't tell the whole world now! Problem is out of state customer doesn't pay. They say you aren't in their system, make you fill out W9 and new vendor form after a one month wait. You give them net 30. It's been two and a half months. Though you got a PO number prior to shipping repaired device back to them. Then they say higher ups gotta review and decide whether to pay. waited two more weeks. (Gosh, all this time on the phone, chasing my money!??) Now I got to send a notice of demand for payment. - specifying deadline. Then I have to SUE. Then I have to build a webpage that tells the world about them not paying their bills, making sure that front page has every possible search term for bots to scrape.
What i like the most about Sorin is his spontaneity and honesty, he turns on the camera start recording with no need to edit the videos ! Wish you all the best and i'm sure that your new business will be successful !
I did this job for a number of years. In order of steps:- 1> VERY close visual, use a magnifier lamp. 2> Heat kills. Look for burns. Capacitors die in heat... look for shrink wrap on electrolytics. 3> Follow the current, then follow the voltage. The higher these values, the more vulnerable the items are. 4> Inductive loads kill. Suspect power components connected to coils, relays, motors, solenoids. 5> Test each component as a stand alone item, in circuit & out of circuit. Prove it, put a dot on it if good, move to the next part. 6> VI trace a good board if available & compare to the bad one. Ask customer if they have a known good spare to borrow...
Simply brilliant and so informative. I have worked with relays on cars but this is much more complicated and you made it easy for us to understand. I know for you this is like bread and butter. Thank you very much.
That’s a Graco controller. Probably central lube system. They also do painters and sprayers. The biggest problems with relays in industrial application is the inductive loads of relay or solenoid valve coils destroying the contacts. Relays will click but not necessarily making a contact. Lots of time the repair of the board is temporary because spike protection which most of the times stays with coils on the machine ( usually inside the DIN connectors or integrated in to the coil ) is failed, which in turn will damage the contacts of the new relays rather quickly.
You can always pop the relay cover off, and sand down the relay contacts. Usually they burn out and the stain gives an inconsistent path, hence the sometimes continuity and sometimes not. You can look for automotive relays, you should easily find the volt/amp in a car parts store. You are a master of your craft. Do not mind the internet, keep doing the great job!
Only for a temporary repair. Not recommended. You want to make a good name for yourself by delivering a quality repair that lasts for years, unless a customer specifically tells you they just want the equipment to work for a few months because they are going to be replacing it.
@@korgied True any repair where a part is not working properly a replacement part either from a donor board or new is much more desirable and decreases liability at the same time.
@@GregM It is not enough to clean the relay contacts. We can assume that because of the oxides caused by the spark, the contact is not firm but random. But let's not forget that it is a power relay, it means that the CuZn armatures are affected. This is the major failure in a power relay, not just the "contact punch".
We do some repairs for a crane company and nearly every one is a relay problem and the ones that aren't are IGBTs or other transistors. We use JCB irons and we have a great tip for use in desoldering connectors and caps. It is called a cartridge blade and is 15mm wide. It allows you to desolder much easier.
Loved the video! I used to repair complex military boards a decade ago then moved into software, but have been getting back into electronics for fun. I was great to see the process you took and what you were thinking through. Reminded me how much I miss it. Thank you!
Thank you for teaching us trouble shooting techniques. I find your approach to be very through and very helpful. I see comments saying you can open the relay, and I think most of us know that, but depending on the environment this board has to endure, you might expose the workings of the relay to moisture or dust when it's put back in service. My first guess was in total agreement with the relay being bad, as it IS A WEARABLE part, it additionally has moving parts, which has always been a hot spot for trouble in electronics. My eye kept looking at one of the DARKENED pins on the third relay every time he would flip the board, but maybe that's not an issue. While relays get old and wear out, if it was from poor engineering or intermittent problems with the other equipment it connects to, that's always where my mind is concerned.
awesome, i would actually love to see more like this, industrial electronics, fault finding & diagnostic procedures on unknown boards. Have been self learning now for a while, & have been lucky to fix most appliances, as a hands on experimental type of learner, but always feel overwhelmed knowing I still don't get so much that happens within some circuits; find it hard to trace a logical path & understanding how each component is modifying to get the final desired function/signal/output... know what/when to take into account residual effects or interference caused by certain devices or circuits, how to prevent, filter... "so much to learn has I"... Thanks for being a great assistance sharing your time, knowledge & experience.
I'm in the same boat. It's exciting and at times I have a win, but often it is all of the "unknowns" that make me doubt. It's humbling, that's for sure! Just tonight for example I was working on a control board for a smart motor contactor. And I'm still not sure what the failure component is. ..... but that's how hard earned knowledge is! Just keep exposing yourself to things just out of reach. Eventually they are within reach. Or that's what I keep telling myself anyway!
My guess is, when you open up the relay, the contacts will be defective. That's 99.9% of the relay, and sanding them down is maybe extending their lifetime, but the contact is not reliable anymore. Sadly you are right with one thing, finding this relay is not easy, I did not find it on Mouser or other sources I usually use.
Great Troubleshooting Techniques! Relay contacts have been using cheaper & cheaper alloys for years. It follows there will be high resistance contact failures building up now. Platinum contacts seem to be Mil-Spec only and "silver alloy" can often mean nearly anything today. I've even seen just bare copper posts! Tough world. But relays are also designed with families of footprints, so you may be able to source a Suitable Substitute based on footprint and specs.
Felicitări in noua activitate ! Cel mai bun electronist de pe UA-cam! Tocmai din cauza asta îți trimit oamenii placi industriale ,pentru ca ești bun. Am avut și eu o problema cu o placa de la o scara de carat mobila, pai ce am găsit pe cineva sa o repare, nimeni nu se baga vor sa schimb placa de baza 1k de euro....
I'm really enjoy these "Can we repair this with general electronics knowledge?" It could be a great series it's very interesting to watch because it is a challenge to you and gets you excited.
This happens to high capacity relays quite a lot...over time, the internal contacts are exposed to arcing from all that high amp swithching and develop carbon deposits whereby causing poor/intermittent connections. So, one way to fix outside of replacing the relay (due to either parts availability or production wants to reduce downtime) is to, if possible, open the relay housing and clean the contacts with fine sand paper and blow the work clean. The caveat is to make sure the contacts are still is good condition and NOT worn out from all that arcing. Thanks for posting your work, I enjoy all the forensics. Cheers from New Jersey.
Sorin, looks like this relay was manufactured by California-based kgtechnologies, and they have a website and a European office. I don't see the K981P in their catalog, or anything similar. It looks like they make mostly latching relays. Which means this relay might have not only coil and contact terminals, but also two reset terminals, kind of like an SR flip flop. Searching for K981P on the web returns nothing, so maybe you can try emailing their support email. Thanks much for your videos.
It is not enough to clean the relay contacts. We can assume that because of the oxides caused by the spark, the contact is not firm but random. But let's not forget that it is a power relay, it means that the CuZn armatures are affected. This is the major failure in a power relay, not just the "contact punch". The solution: a new one. Good job Mr. Sorin and well explained.
Hello. I am a faithful follower and I really like your channel because I learn. Many times I have found faults in relay contacts and have solved them by cleaning with fine sandpaper. trying not to wear the material too much and sometimes using silver solder in case of extreme wear, checking at the end the correct alignment of each contact. I send cordial greetings, wishing you good health, I greatly appreciate your educational efforts. Thank you very much.
Years ago my customer had a number of industrial machines which booted off a specially formatted Conner hard drive. One drive failed, and the customer was quoted a stupendous amount of money for a replacement plus installation - in 2022 money it would be ~$20,000. I found a forensic software (that could clone one of the working drives onto a larger readily available hard drive and got the machine working again for ~$500 in 2022 money. My point is that suppliers of industrial electronics know how to rip a huge hole in their customers' budgets :) In this case I replaced every one of the 7 hard drives around their plant, and saved them a huge cost. The vendor had no idea how it was achieved, and we didn't tell them either.
i had that problem multiple time with motocycle ,the relay work but its the contac who are corroded,,the only thing i did it was to open the relay and using a very small paper sand to clean the contact head inside ,it was working every well all the time
Hello Sorin, enjoying your videos as always and i like the doggie way you fix things sometimes because here in Zimbabwe its difficult to find most components. Thank you. Your tutorials are really helping me. I like you so much
@@Frank-Thoresen I always wonder at these sort of comments? Don't they have a post office / postal service in Uganda so you can just order from AliExpress like most others do? Even the tiny little out of the way Atlantic Island where I live has a postal service and I can get just about anything, though it may take a month or so to arrive!
@@Frank-Thoresen I don't know your part of the world of course but living myself in a back water 150km off the coast of West Africa I can understand that post can take a long time to get here ( 4 weeks is normal from Ali, occasionally 10 weeks or more) but nothing ever actually went missing. Sometimes things get stuck in customs but they arrive as long as I submit the paperwork. Can the post office not just employ honest people, and sack/prosecute any dishonest ones they have, or is everyone there a thief? I also salvage a lot of parts but that is mostly because it is fun to do it 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Normally it's just too much hassle to do it for most technicians. I have started using courier services and the client pay the extra cost. I am originally from Norway and soon moving back after 13 years in Africa. I am looking forward to an easier way to purchase over internet and get it safely delivered to my mailbox 🙂
Sorin first job: loose wire, I'm disappointed ... gets second job: so longggg, 41 minutes of troubleshooting haha! Keep em coming I enjoy these kind of new jobs!
Thank you for the valuable lesson and for your efforts to prepare this video, it will be very useful if we “all people that working in this field “ share our difficult problems we faced in fixing boards and we solve it , I personally fixed board with a short in transformer or an open circuit transistor or a capacitor behaves like a resistance
Fault is clear, if you can open it without braek it, you could check the inside. Commonly there are "only" some "burnmarks" because of the load to switch. Best case, you can clean it to make it work again 😉
That company was acquired by hongfa technology and once on their page select Products, there you can choose a suitable replacement (it could be similar and I would risk it). There is also an authorized distributor for Europe based in Germany and for North America it is the same name as the previous company. On the other hand, I remember the relays (12, 24 and 48 Vdc) used in the old CRT TVs. Also those used in the variable DC regulated sources of our technical schools (5, 15 and 30Vdc) that we students damaged so much. All the best.
Problem solving process is the same in every case. 1. Identify the problem 2. Gather information about the problem 3. Think, analyze and test. 4. Implement some remedy to isolate or repair the problem. 5. If problem persists, go back to step 1 and recycle the process. If problem is gone, you are done. When it starts working, you should stop fixing it right away.
In my approach always involve 3 major steps in power related faults.1 Analyse and study the fault. 2. Search for any short circuit.If no any 3. Search for any open circuit. I believe almost 100% the problem can be easily seen.
Switched from consumer to industrial almost 2 years ago now and honestly, more enjoyable and, aside from catastrophic failures, more repairable. While there are some serialized stuff, and proprietary software you can't access and such, overall the circuits are less complex and easier to understand. May also help that they're usually much larger than say a phone or tablet pcb, so you can do repairs even without sight assistance (if you have good eyesight)
Had a van control unit recently, customer had read online it was a relay problem so asked me to swap it. I said symptoms sound like solder joint, but sure. Then 'fixed' for months until he brings it back and asks for different relay change. Both times, I also touch up any joints I thought worthwhile including the MCU. Second relay didn't fix it (it was unlikely, as I'd said in the first place). Finally, got him to identify the spot on the board that 'turned the fault off and on when pressed'. Dodgy via, completely not possible to find with visual inspection - but we got there in the end.
Often the designers use two pairs of contacts of the same relay in “pass through loop” fashion, in time critical applications to reduce the chance of contacts welding up and increasing the “turn off” time. Same goes to choice of SPDs for that application - for example simple fly back or free wheeling diode is not feasible in that application because it is increasing the “turn off” time and disrupts the correct machine operation. Also snubber types can induce “ringing” with the same results. Usually in time critical application the TVS or free wheeling diode back to back with zenner is used, to shorten the “turn off” time.
Greetings I'm new to your channel and started following you regularly. I also deal with electronics and work in industrial electronics. usually such high-power relays burn out due to frequent sparking. My medicine is temporary contact cleaning until the relay is replaced.
Greetings, well done finding the problem. Seems to me the faulty relay may have some carbon build up on the contacts since it is 40 amps going through.
Hey Sorin, as always great work! Should not fix the issue only cleaning the contacts in the relay? I heard you saying that it will be dodgy...but indeed, you know relays, getting old (escpecially with capability of 40A) can get a lot of oxidation and burnt spots...some good cleaning with alcohol and sandpaper to get back the old untouched sourface, im my opinion, should be quite a good fix for these kind of boards. Probably on an old type of board and unique tool, you can not use very ofter the solution "oh ok i will desolder and solder a new piece". The Master Sorin, would probably just opent the relay case, clean, sandpaper clear, close it back and boooooom! Good as new, evend for less money for the client. Ofc the thingy will get used and old again, and the relay will need the cleaning back again...but what can you do
At 18:30' I stopped the video and I can see the case of relay A has a bit of deformity on the left side. Perhaps, a sign of overheating with regular use? It looks like the casing has slightly melted on the edge and deformed. A sure sign of excessive heat inside. Thanks for an interesting troubleshooting video.
hello Sorin in my opinion first thing to check on a defective board that contains relay's is to check them before everything else, if the relay has a internal bad conection and the pins are ok and non of the plastic is melted just take the plastic cover of and clean the contacts pad with 3 or 5000 grit sand paper, i had the same problem with my Peugeot 407 and the car refuse to start, i checked all the fuses, voltage to fuel pump, voltage to injectors and everything was zero, and i had to work all week (ca asa e in Romania) i asked some friends that are mecanics and electricians (some of them) and all of them came with different causes and solutions, so after that, i checked on you tube for fuel pump no voltage etc. and found that the BSM module is handeling the power delivery to key components like pump, injectors, etc, and that beside fuses has relays also, and after taking it out from the car and checking witch relay is powering the fuel pump i found the one that didn't work, i took the cover out clean the contacts and after installing the module back, the car started with no problem. The thing with my repair is that this module is sa SandWich board style and has 2 boards soldered togheder and is diped is silicone alongside with it's case and the complete dissasembly is quite imposible without braking the case.
Of course you can, I always repair industrial devices along with laptops and phones. The technique is the same that you use for laptops, trouble shutting always starts from the voltage of the power supply and so on. (It must be said, however, that if you do not know the electronic components such as power transistor transformers and voltage regulators that are used in the industrial sector, it is difficult to understand the circuits. Also applies to older CRT TVs).
Very interesting video. I have wondered about the issue of heavily loaded components and testing them with a digital multimeter. I still use my old AVO Mk8 for finding faults but even that doesn't simulate a heavy current. Liked and subbed, thank you.
Measure the contact resistance when ON, cycling it several times. It should be consistently under 0.2 Ohms or so. The specs will give the expected contact resistance. The beeper is continuity, but the Ohms reading is your guide to the condition of the contacts. Replace the relays. That way you will probably not see it again for 10 years.
The Problem with trying to Revive the Contacts is they are Coated with a Mixture of Conductive Metals to keep the Arcing to a Minimum when they Open & Close, thus greatly Extending their Lifespan. Techs will File them Clean and get them Working for a time, but that Special Coating is now Destroyed and generally will not last long.
Salutare! Este o placa de la un utilaj de aplicat spuma poliuretanica! Rolul ei este de a doza materiale bicomponente( A si B) iar partea cu Hose este pentru mentinerea temperaturii cinstante pe toata lungimea furtunului!
Carlson's Lab has an interesting video showing the use of a scope, octopus and pulser to test relays. Even at low current a relay like this should show lots of noise. Search UA-cam for Carlson relay testing. Maybe too much setup for a single repair. Thanks, good video!
Lots of 5-10 year old integrated modules for industrial uses out there. If they get damaged, either the replacement module costs 3-6k usd or is unobtanium. In the latter case the customer would need to update all automation to most current components. That’s why repair of these is soo well paid
be carreful: A relay who's present a variable resistance like in this video is not a faulty relay. Relay works very differently according the voltage value across the leads. When very low voltage are switched, it can present some resistance, like the multimeter did. But when high voltage is applied, like 12 à' 24V, the spark involved in the switching help to create a very low resistance bridge between the contact. So, unlike said Sorin in this video, if you want to really test a contact relay, don't do it with a multimeter. If the multimeter gives very low impedance, it's proove that the relay is brand new. If there is some resistance, don't trust it, because this resistance will disappear when plasma is between the leads. If you want to test relay, use a bulb and a voltage higher than from a multimeter, for instance here 12V would be perfect.
I saw the relay and guessed ones probably faulty. I think industrial components like this are built to a standard design - so should be able to replace with same spec'd relay of different makes.
I literally have one of those one my bench right now. Burned up a contact on the hose circuit and one of the contacts on the relay is not working at all. I contacted the manufacturer today to see if I can get the relays, but I will likely have to modify a new relay to work in place.
I wish you good luck looking for a replacement relay Sorin. My quick search found the maker no longer stocks this part and doesn't even have a data sheet so you can try and find a substitute. You may have to go down the "dodgy" pathway and open it up and try to resurrect the contacts and or spring mechanism. Your website clearly indicates you service computers and related consumer devices, so why the first 2 jobs to come in were industrial equipment types is a mystery. Maybe the third one will be more familiar territory. I noticed a lady called Diana seems to be using your desk and mat for fixing her iPhone. Do you have to "rock paper scissors" to see who gets the desk?😁😁😁😁 Cheers Eric
Are those 220 mosfets actually diodes? I noticed the "D" silkscreen designators on the board. Also, if the relay is switching motors, large inductive load, having large diode to protect the relay contacts from excessive arcing on opening contacts would be expected. I would check relay AND diode. Maybe open diode will cause contact arcing and shorten relay life.
I'm getting same jobs as u do. No laptops no tablets. But alot of different equipment and car boards motor houses. So much more money in them rare boards. Some of them cant be replaced. Some of them cost over 1 k or 2k
I wish you were live streaming this so I don’t look stupid yelling at my phone telling you what pins on the relays are what and what’s wrong with the board! Your doing a great job so far though. I’m only half way through the video right now but I have a feeling you’ll get it figured out.
Could be a dirty relay contact, can it be taken apart and cleaned? Also, if your not supplying enough current from your 12v power supply, it might not be pulling the contact closed tight enough to make a reliable connection each time, “esp if contact is slightly contaminated from previous years of normal arcing caused by heavy load switching.” Also, how do you know that you are not going to damage the relay driver chip by back-feeding the output of the chip with your external 12v used for testing of the relay clamping when the driver chip is still soldered in-place to relay coil? I would try to locate a new relay with same coil voltage and resistance, as well as 40A or slightly greater contact current rating, then point to point wire to the board accordingly, and then silicone rubber the relay down to the board with non-corrosive silicone rubber “non-ammonia based”. If the new relay coil is close, or slightly lower resistance, you could always add a in series resistor of proper value to increase the coil resistance seen by the relay driver chip, “as long the replacement relay is not to much lower in resistance. Otherwise the new relay might not clamp tight enough from the driver IC output. Good luck 😎👍
Industrial and commercial repair and service contracts are the best because you are guaranteed payment on time nearly 99% of the time unlike individual / residential jobs who will stiff you of the bill if they can, you sometimes have to fight people to get paid and most go unpaid because it is not worth the headache. This is why I refuse individual service jobs in the residential markets and only take on bigger contracts.
When I worked for an electronics firm that did contact work, in the 1980s, nothing ever worked. Engineers had to tweak the circuits !!!! Back in those days no components were the same !!! You got all different values of capacitors, transistors, resistors, so the top 5% would go into expensive equipment, and the rest would go to make cheap electronics or be scrapped !!!!
To me it is good just to get a start. Next maybe they know your skills and sent it anyway even though it is not a laptop or phone. Keep up the good work
The proof that the relay contacts are bad is the inconsistent ohm reading when the contacts are closed. You can sand smooth the contacts to get by sometimes but a new relay is the best repair option.
Din experiența mea proprie, releele trebuiesc schimbate, chiar dacă le desfaci și le curăți, tot vor creea probleme... Amintește-ți de platină 1310😅, vă dați seama dacă alimentează motoare ce curenți de comutație suportă aceste contacte mai ales la start. Viața acestor relee sa dus. O zi frumoasă!
There are a lot of angry , sick people out here on the other side of the screen, please don't let them be involved in your thoughts, you provide a wonderful channel for people to learn, please don't let them ruin that.
A tough job. Intermittent fault on a board, no drawings. Chances high that it's a relay but you can't be sure. If I can't find anything on the bench, I normally go to the factory and fault-find on the machine. That way, all the conditions are set up correctly and the fault is most likely to show. Then you can pinpoint it. I don't know if that's practical for you and it depends on how important that board is. If it's critical, factories will pay anything to get their machine back up and running because they are losing production and that's massive expense. I normally contact the manufacturer of the machine and find out what they have to offer. They might give you drawings. They might supply spare boards. If you can get drawings and you can go to the factory, that is your best bet. Or a replacement board and you can mark that up and make something. The nice thing about industrial is you can bill for everything. As long as their machine works, they are always happy
The relay part numbers should cross over to quite a few replacements. You have to match the coil voltage, and then the contact voltage and current. Other than the footprint, older 12V automotive Headlight relays should work. I have a number of 40 Amp automotive relays for robot projects.
Industrial things are usually easier to work on, you get schematics, repair manuals and it's made easy to disassemble unlike most consumer stuff. There's no nonsense, they can't pull the Apple-type nonsense with industrial products. I have a friend who fixes avionics for a living, he won't touch an Ipad.
Industrial electronics can be a pain. Yes, most faults are simple and obvious. However, when you can't find those big faults where do you go? The boards are usually quite simple. Maybe a handful of smd components and chips and everything tests good on a meter.
I have worked on industrial electronics and quite often the customer will send in a board like this with no fault details, you have no idea what it is from or what it does and yet you got to repair it. If this was a board I received I would have removed the relays and checked them as not always safe to do in the circuit because of back emf. checked all the semiconductors perhaps do a cap change. nMost of the time items like this are returned untested as you haven't the technical information.
This was a very hard fault to find. Nice testing technique. Maybe you should add industrial electronics to your website and profit from it. There's demand for it, that's for sure!
kg doesn't produce these relays anymore. You can only do a botch job using another relay, but you would need to make sure how many amps these motors really take. Maybe check the MOSFET specs. A 40A carrying botch job would not be easy. But probably you don't need 40A. You could also ask the customer if he has another broken board.
Agree KG doesn't list those relays and there doesn't seem to be anything similar from big manufacturers. Not sure if I agree about not needing 40A as the relay has probably failed due to current exceeding 40A (or 250v ac). Might be worth seeing if it's switching DC and if so if any back EMF diode is functional.
The load might be low voltage DC. Not sure, would need to check the circuit board and mosfet circuit. In case the load is a 12v dc motor he could just use 2 40A automotive relays. They are cheap and easy to wire up.
Most likely there is no emf diode directly over the relay contacts, even if you have a DC inductive load, because the mosfets are likely set up as a bridge to reverse the polarity when needed.
Please explain how you could safely inject many amps like that on the circuit (on the relay) safely? The current won't stay in only in the relay, right? It will affect the whole board right? (Sorry for the basic question, I'm a beginner)
please don't let negative comments affect you , we love watching you diagnosing , even if it was a simple problem . we watch to learn how to solve on our own any device not to get a solution for a specific product
I second this.
what negative comments?
@@fendularatsq2317 someone posted a comment says this video wasted 40 minutes of his life and it was easy he should cut to the exact fault and the fix
Fully agree with this.
I think he made many people angry with that comment today. When someone says something like that to Sorin, it's like he said it to all of us!
You are quite correct - Industrial / Commercial electronics often have fairly basic faults and can be very profitable
Hello master i watch yout videos also. Very interesting and much knowledge from you. Thank you.
You get about Richard 😂
(Industrial Power & Microelectronics, L.L.C. here) SHHH! Don't tell the whole world now! Problem is out of state customer doesn't pay. They say you aren't in their system, make you fill out W9 and new vendor form after a one month wait. You give them net 30. It's been two and a half months. Though you got a PO number prior to shipping repaired device back to them. Then they say higher ups gotta review and decide whether to pay. waited two more weeks. (Gosh, all this time on the phone, chasing my money!??) Now I got to send a notice of demand for payment. - specifying deadline. Then I have to SUE. Then I have to build a webpage that tells the world about them not paying their bills, making sure that front page has every possible search term for bots to scrape.
Hi Richard, cool to see you watch Sorin also, you two are the best. You both have taught me so much, thank you both. Paul, USA!
What i like the most about Sorin is his spontaneity and honesty, he turns on the camera start recording with no need to edit the videos ! Wish you all the best and i'm sure that your new business will be successful !
I did this job for a number of years. In order of steps:-
1> VERY close visual, use a magnifier lamp.
2> Heat kills. Look for burns. Capacitors die in heat... look for shrink wrap on electrolytics.
3> Follow the current, then follow the voltage. The higher these values, the more vulnerable the items are.
4> Inductive loads kill. Suspect power components connected to coils, relays, motors, solenoids.
5> Test each component as a stand alone item, in circuit & out of circuit. Prove it, put a dot on it if good, move to the next part.
6> VI trace a good board if available & compare to the bad one. Ask customer if they have a known good spare to borrow...
You are very professional, and the VI curve test is a good detection method in the case of the same circuit board. I am in China
Thanks! Copy pasting your comment! Useful points
I studied Electrical engineering and working on software development. I really love your channel to keep my electrical edge sharp. 💖💖
Thank you!!!!
Always learn from this guy love it
Simply brilliant and so informative. I have worked with relays on cars but this is much more complicated and you made it easy for us to understand. I know for you this is like bread and butter. Thank you very much.
That’s a Graco controller. Probably central lube system. They also do painters and sprayers.
The biggest problems with relays in industrial application is the inductive loads of relay or solenoid valve coils destroying the contacts. Relays will click but not necessarily making a contact. Lots of time the repair of the board is temporary because spike protection which most of the times stays with coils on the machine ( usually inside the DIN connectors or integrated in to the coil ) is failed, which in turn will damage the contacts of the new relays rather quickly.
You can always pop the relay cover off, and sand down the relay contacts. Usually they burn out and the stain gives an inconsistent path, hence the sometimes continuity and sometimes not.
You can look for automotive relays, you should easily find the volt/amp in a car parts store.
You are a master of your craft. Do not mind the internet, keep doing the great job!
yup relay contacts can get pitting or carbon build up
Only for a temporary repair. Not recommended. You want to make a good name for yourself by delivering a quality repair that lasts for years, unless a customer specifically tells you they just want the equipment to work for a few months because they are going to be replacing it.
@@korgied for sure. But this is a good diagnostic step to perform if you're stuck though.
@@korgied True any repair where a part is not working properly a replacement part either from a donor board or new is much more desirable and decreases liability at the same time.
@@GregM It is not enough to clean the relay contacts. We can assume that because of the oxides caused by the spark, the contact is not firm but random. But let's not forget that it is a power relay, it means that the CuZn armatures are affected. This is the major failure in a power relay, not just the "contact punch".
We do some repairs for a crane company and nearly every one is a relay problem and the ones that aren't are IGBTs or other transistors.
We use JCB irons and we have a great tip for use in desoldering connectors and caps. It is called a cartridge blade and is 15mm wide. It allows you to desolder much easier.
thanks for the tip on that blade.
I use a led light to shine behind the pcb to follow traces to components. Works for me.
Loved the video! I used to repair complex military boards a decade ago then moved into software, but have been getting back into electronics for fun. I was great to see the process you took and what you were thinking through. Reminded me how much I miss it. Thank you!
Thank you for teaching us trouble shooting techniques. I find your approach to be very through and very helpful. I see comments saying you can open the relay, and I think most of us know that, but depending on the environment this board has to endure, you might expose the workings of the relay to moisture or dust when it's put back in service. My first guess was in total agreement with the relay being bad, as it IS A WEARABLE part, it additionally has moving parts, which has always been a hot spot for trouble in electronics.
My eye kept looking at one of the DARKENED pins on the third relay every time he would flip the board, but maybe that's not an issue. While relays get old and wear out, if it was from poor engineering or intermittent problems with the other equipment it connects to, that's always where my mind is concerned.
awesome, i would actually love to see more like this, industrial electronics, fault finding & diagnostic procedures on unknown boards.
Have been self learning now for a while, & have been lucky to fix most appliances, as a hands on experimental type of learner, but always feel overwhelmed knowing I still don't get so much that happens within some circuits; find it hard to trace a logical path & understanding how each component is modifying to get the final desired function/signal/output... know what/when to take into account residual effects or interference caused by certain devices or circuits, how to prevent, filter... "so much to learn has I"...
Thanks for being a great assistance sharing your time, knowledge & experience.
I'm in the same boat. It's exciting and at times I have a win, but often it is all of the "unknowns" that make me doubt. It's humbling, that's for sure! Just tonight for example I was working on a control board for a smart motor contactor. And I'm still not sure what the failure component is. ..... but that's how hard earned knowledge is! Just keep exposing yourself to things just out of reach. Eventually they are within reach. Or that's what I keep telling myself anyway!
My guess is, when you open up the relay, the contacts will be defective. That's 99.9% of the relay, and sanding them down is maybe extending their lifetime, but the contact is not reliable anymore. Sadly you are right with one thing, finding this relay is not easy, I did not find it on Mouser or other sources I usually use.
Great Troubleshooting Techniques!
Relay contacts have been using cheaper & cheaper alloys for years. It follows there will be high resistance contact failures building up now. Platinum contacts seem to be Mil-Spec only and "silver alloy" can often mean nearly anything today. I've even seen just bare copper posts! Tough world. But relays are also designed with families of footprints, so you may be able to source a Suitable Substitute based on footprint and specs.
Felicitări in noua activitate ! Cel mai bun electronist de pe UA-cam! Tocmai din cauza asta îți trimit oamenii placi industriale ,pentru ca ești bun. Am avut și eu o problema cu o placa de la o scara de carat mobila, pai ce am găsit pe cineva sa o repare, nimeni nu se baga vor sa schimb placa de baza 1k de euro....
I'm really enjoy these "Can we repair this with general electronics knowledge?" It could be a great series it's very interesting to watch because it is a challenge to you and gets you excited.
Hello Sorin. You could mix a bit of low melt solder to the joints, so it gets a lot easyer to reflow or remove with solder wick
This happens to high capacity relays quite a lot...over time, the internal contacts are exposed to arcing from all that high amp swithching and develop carbon deposits whereby causing poor/intermittent connections. So, one way to fix outside of replacing the relay (due to either parts availability or production wants to reduce downtime) is to, if possible, open the relay housing and clean the contacts with fine sand paper and blow the work clean. The caveat is to make sure the contacts are still is good condition and NOT worn out from all that arcing.
Thanks for posting your work, I enjoy all the forensics. Cheers from New Jersey.
Sorin, looks like this relay was manufactured by California-based kgtechnologies, and they have a website and a European office. I don't see the K981P in their catalog, or anything similar. It looks like they make mostly latching relays. Which means this relay might have not only coil and contact terminals, but also two reset terminals, kind of like an SR flip flop. Searching for K981P on the web returns nothing, so maybe you can try emailing their support email. Thanks much for your videos.
It is not enough to clean the relay contacts. We can assume that because of the oxides caused by the spark, the contact is not firm but random. But let's not forget that it is a power relay, it means that the CuZn armatures are affected. This is the major failure in a power relay, not just the "contact punch". The solution: a new one. Good job Mr. Sorin and well explained.
Hello. I am a faithful follower and I really like your channel because I learn.
Many times I have found faults in relay contacts and have solved them by cleaning with fine sandpaper. trying not to wear the material too much and sometimes using silver solder in case of extreme wear, checking at the end the correct alignment of each contact.
I send cordial greetings, wishing you good health, I greatly appreciate your educational efforts. Thank you very much.
Years ago my customer had a number of industrial machines which booted off a specially formatted Conner hard drive. One drive failed, and the customer was quoted a stupendous amount of money for a replacement plus installation - in 2022 money it would be ~$20,000. I found a forensic software (that could clone one of the working drives onto a larger readily available hard drive and got the machine working again for ~$500 in 2022 money. My point is that suppliers of industrial electronics know how to rip a huge hole in their customers' budgets :) In this case I replaced every one of the 7 hard drives around their plant, and saved them a huge cost. The vendor had no idea how it was achieved, and we didn't tell them either.
i had that problem multiple time with motocycle ,the relay work but its the contac who are corroded,,the only thing i did it was to open the relay and using a very small paper sand to clean the contact head inside ,it was working every well all the time
Hello Sorin, enjoying your videos as always and i like the doggie way you fix things sometimes because here in Zimbabwe its difficult to find most components. Thank you. Your tutorials are really helping me. I like you so much
We have the same problem finding electronic components/parts here in Uganda. It makes it so hard to do good repair jobs easy
@@Frank-Thoresen I always wonder at these sort of comments? Don't they have a post office / postal service in Uganda so you can just order from AliExpress like most others do? Even the tiny little out of the way Atlantic Island where I live has a postal service and I can get just about anything, though it may take a month or so to arrive!
@@Frank-Thoresen I don't know your part of the world of course but living myself in a back water 150km off the coast of West Africa I can understand that post can take a long time to get here ( 4 weeks is normal from Ali, occasionally 10 weeks or more) but nothing ever actually went missing. Sometimes things get stuck in customs but they arrive as long as I submit the paperwork. Can the post office not just employ honest people, and sack/prosecute any dishonest ones they have, or is everyone there a thief? I also salvage a lot of parts but that is mostly because it is fun to do it 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Normally it's just too much hassle to do it for most technicians. I have started using courier services and the client pay the extra cost.
I am originally from Norway and soon moving back after 13 years in Africa.
I am looking forward to an easier way to purchase over internet and get it safely delivered to my mailbox 🙂
Sorin first job: loose wire, I'm disappointed ... gets second job: so longggg, 41 minutes of troubleshooting haha! Keep em coming I enjoy these kind of new jobs!
Thank you for the valuable lesson and for your efforts to prepare this video, it will be very useful if we “all people that working in this field “ share our difficult problems we faced in fixing boards and we solve it , I personally fixed board with a short in transformer or an open circuit transistor or a capacitor behaves like a resistance
Fault is clear, if you can open it without braek it, you could check the inside. Commonly there are "only" some "burnmarks" because of the load to switch. Best case, you can clean it to make it work again 😉
That was a very good example of basic troubleshooting. Thanks
That company was acquired by hongfa technology and once on their page select Products, there you can choose a suitable replacement (it could be similar and I would risk it). There is also an authorized distributor for Europe based in Germany and for North America it is the same name as the previous company.
On the other hand, I remember the relays (12, 24 and 48 Vdc) used in the old CRT TVs. Also those used in the variable DC regulated sources of our technical schools (5, 15 and 30Vdc) that we students damaged so much. All the best.
Great job narrowing fault to relay contact
Problem solving process is the same in every case. 1. Identify the problem 2. Gather information about the problem 3. Think, analyze and test. 4. Implement some remedy to isolate or repair the problem. 5. If problem persists, go back to step 1 and recycle the process. If problem is gone, you are done. When it starts working, you should stop fixing it right away.
In my approach always involve 3 major steps in power related faults.1 Analyse and study the fault.
2. Search for any short circuit.If no any
3. Search for any open circuit.
I believe almost 100% the problem can be easily seen.
Mulțumim pentru tot ce ne înveți!Mulțumim!
Switched from consumer to industrial almost 2 years ago now and honestly, more enjoyable and, aside from catastrophic failures, more repairable. While there are some serialized stuff, and proprietary software you can't access and such, overall the circuits are less complex and easier to understand. May also help that they're usually much larger than say a phone or tablet pcb, so you can do repairs even without sight assistance (if you have good eyesight)
If the load is a 12v dc motor you could consider 2 automotive 40A relays. They are cheap.
Thats exactly what i ordered as replacement
Had a van control unit recently, customer had read online it was a relay problem so asked me to swap it. I said symptoms sound like solder joint, but sure. Then 'fixed' for months until he brings it back and asks for different relay change. Both times, I also touch up any joints I thought worthwhile including the MCU. Second relay didn't fix it (it was unlikely, as I'd said in the first place). Finally, got him to identify the spot on the board that 'turned the fault off and on when pressed'. Dodgy via, completely not possible to find with visual inspection - but we got there in the end.
Sa traiasca domnul Sorin , de mult nu a ti mai reparat un amplificator audio sau ceva similar . Astept cu mare interes.
Negative comments are for haters, continue the amazing job you are doing.
Often the designers use two pairs of contacts of the same relay in “pass through loop” fashion, in time critical applications to reduce the chance of contacts welding up and increasing the “turn off” time. Same goes to choice of SPDs for that application - for example simple fly back or free wheeling diode is not feasible in that application because it is increasing the “turn off” time and disrupts the correct machine operation. Also snubber types can induce “ringing” with the same results. Usually in time critical application the TVS or free wheeling diode back to back with zenner is used, to shorten the “turn off” time.
Greetings I'm new to your channel and started following you regularly.
I also deal with electronics and work in industrial electronics.
usually such high-power relays burn out due to frequent sparking. My medicine is temporary contact cleaning until the relay is replaced.
Greetings, well done finding the problem. Seems to me the faulty relay may have some carbon build up on the contacts since it is 40 amps going through.
Amazing Sorin, keep up the good work! Love from Romania!
Hey Sorin, as always great work! Should not fix the issue only cleaning the contacts in the relay?
I heard you saying that it will be dodgy...but indeed, you know relays, getting old (escpecially with capability of 40A) can get a lot of oxidation and burnt spots...some good cleaning with alcohol and sandpaper to get back the old untouched sourface, im my opinion, should be quite a good fix for these kind of boards.
Probably on an old type of board and unique tool, you can not use very ofter the solution "oh ok i will desolder and solder a new piece".
The Master Sorin, would probably just opent the relay case, clean, sandpaper clear, close it back and boooooom! Good as new, evend for less money for the client.
Ofc the thingy will get used and old again, and the relay will need the cleaning back again...but what can you do
At 18:30' I stopped the video and I can see the case of relay A has a bit of deformity on the left side. Perhaps, a sign of overheating with regular use?
It looks like the casing has slightly melted on the edge and deformed.
A sure sign of excessive heat inside.
Thanks for an interesting troubleshooting video.
hello Sorin in my opinion first thing to check on a defective board that contains relay's is to check them before everything else, if the relay has a internal bad conection and the pins are ok and non of the plastic is melted just take the plastic cover of and clean the contacts pad with 3 or 5000 grit sand paper, i had the same problem with my Peugeot 407 and the car refuse to start, i checked all the fuses, voltage to fuel pump, voltage to injectors and everything was zero, and i had to work all week (ca asa e in Romania) i asked some friends that are mecanics and electricians (some of them) and all of them came with different causes and solutions, so after that, i checked on you tube for fuel pump no voltage etc. and found that the BSM module is handeling the power delivery to key components like pump, injectors, etc, and that beside fuses has relays also, and after taking it out from the car and checking witch relay is powering the fuel pump i found the one that didn't work, i took the cover out clean the contacts and after installing the module back, the car started with no problem. The thing with my repair is that this module is sa SandWich board style and has 2 boards soldered togheder and is diped is silicone alongside with it's case and the complete dissasembly is quite imposible without braking the case.
Skillful 4 probe handling!
Continuity mode on the multimeter can be tricky to check relay contacts. I would be using a load to test the relay pins, like 12v with a car lamp.
Also good eyeball inspection is a good thing. 90% of failures are visible.
Of course you can, I always repair industrial devices along with laptops and phones.
The technique is the same that you use for laptops, trouble shutting always starts from the voltage of the power supply and so on.
(It must be said, however, that if you do not know the electronic components such as power transistor transformers and voltage regulators that are used in the industrial sector, it is difficult to understand the circuits. Also applies to older CRT TVs).
Very interesting video. I have wondered about the issue of heavily loaded components and testing them with a digital multimeter. I still use my old AVO Mk8 for finding faults but even that doesn't simulate a heavy current.
Liked and subbed, thank you.
Measure the contact resistance when ON, cycling it several times. It should be consistently under 0.2 Ohms or so. The specs will give the expected contact resistance. The beeper is continuity, but the Ohms reading is your guide to the condition of the contacts. Replace the relays. That way you will probably not see it again for 10 years.
I like the 2 hand, DMM and PPS lead usage. Not easy! I would just replace all 3 relays. Automotive relay is about 40, 50 euro. Cheaper than new board
The Problem with trying to Revive the Contacts is they are Coated with a Mixture of Conductive Metals to keep the Arcing to a Minimum when they Open & Close, thus greatly Extending their Lifespan. Techs will File them Clean and get them Working for a time, but that Special Coating is now Destroyed and generally will not last long.
Salutare! Este o placa de la un utilaj de aplicat spuma poliuretanica! Rolul ei este de a doza materiale bicomponente( A si B) iar partea cu Hose este pentru mentinerea temperaturii cinstante pe toata lungimea furtunului!
Carlson's Lab has an interesting video showing the use of a scope, octopus and pulser to test relays. Even at low current a relay like this should show lots of noise. Search UA-cam for Carlson relay testing. Maybe too much setup for a single repair. Thanks, good video!
Lots of 5-10 year old integrated modules for industrial uses out there. If they get damaged, either the replacement module costs 3-6k usd or is unobtanium. In the latter case the customer would need to update all automation to most current components.
That’s why repair of these is soo well paid
be carreful: A relay who's present a variable resistance like in this video is not a faulty relay. Relay works very differently according the voltage value across the leads.
When very low voltage are switched, it can present some resistance, like the multimeter did.
But when high voltage is applied, like 12 à' 24V, the spark involved in the switching help to create a very low resistance bridge between the contact.
So, unlike said Sorin in this video, if you want to really test a contact relay, don't do it with a multimeter. If the multimeter gives very low impedance, it's proove that the relay is brand new. If there is some resistance, don't trust it, because this resistance will disappear when plasma is between the leads. If you want to test relay, use a bulb and a voltage higher than from a multimeter, for instance here 12V would be perfect.
From a mile a way I can tell that's a stepper driver.. It could be closed loop but the min I saw those mosfet..
Thanks for the troubleshooting skills video.
I saw the relay and guessed ones probably faulty. I think industrial components like this are built to a standard design - so should be able to replace with same spec'd relay of different makes.
I literally have one of those one my bench right now. Burned up a contact on the hose circuit and one of the contacts on the relay is not working at all.
I contacted the manufacturer today to see if I can get the relays, but I will likely have to modify a new relay to work in place.
I wish you good luck looking for a replacement relay Sorin. My quick search found the maker no longer stocks this part and doesn't even have a data sheet so you can try and find a substitute.
You may have to go down the "dodgy" pathway and open it up and try to resurrect the contacts and or spring mechanism.
Your website clearly indicates you service computers and related consumer devices, so why the first 2 jobs to come in were industrial equipment types is a mystery.
Maybe the third one will be more familiar territory.
I noticed a lady called Diana seems to be using your desk and mat for fixing her iPhone. Do you have to "rock paper scissors" to see who gets the desk?😁😁😁😁
Cheers Eric
Are those 220 mosfets actually diodes? I noticed the "D" silkscreen designators on the board. Also, if the relay is switching motors, large inductive load, having large diode to protect the relay contacts from excessive arcing on opening contacts would be expected. I would check relay AND diode. Maybe open diode will cause contact arcing and shorten relay life.
I'm getting same jobs as u do. No laptops no tablets. But alot of different equipment and car boards motor houses. So much more money in them rare boards. Some of them cant be replaced. Some of them cost over 1 k or 2k
Ty I got my first divine because of you
I wish you were live streaming this so I don’t look stupid yelling at my phone telling you what pins on the relays are what and what’s wrong with the board! Your doing a great job so far though. I’m only half way through the video right now but I have a feeling you’ll get it figured out.
Could be a dirty relay contact, can it be taken apart and cleaned? Also, if your not supplying enough current from your 12v power supply, it might not be pulling the contact closed tight enough to make a reliable connection each time, “esp if contact is slightly contaminated from previous years of normal arcing caused by heavy load switching.” Also, how do you know that you are not going to damage the relay driver chip by back-feeding the output of the chip with your external 12v used for testing of the relay clamping when the driver chip is still soldered in-place to relay coil? I would try to locate a new relay with same coil voltage and resistance, as well as 40A or slightly greater contact current rating, then point to point wire to the board accordingly, and then silicone rubber the relay down to the board with non-corrosive silicone rubber “non-ammonia based”. If the new relay coil is close, or slightly lower resistance, you could always add a in series resistor of proper value to increase the coil resistance seen by the relay driver chip, “as long the replacement relay is not to much lower in resistance. Otherwise the new relay might not clamp tight enough from the driver IC output. Good luck
😎👍
Industrial and commercial repair and service contracts are the best because you are guaranteed payment on time nearly 99% of the time unlike individual / residential jobs who will stiff you of the bill if they can, you sometimes have to fight people to get paid and most go unpaid because it is not worth the headache. This is why I refuse individual service jobs in the residential markets and only take on bigger contracts.
When I worked for an electronics firm that did contact work, in the 1980s, nothing ever worked. Engineers had to tweak the circuits !!!! Back in those days no components were the same !!! You got all different values of capacitors, transistors, resistors, so the top 5% would go into expensive equipment, and the rest would go to make cheap electronics or be scrapped !!!!
To me it is good just to get a start. Next maybe they know your skills and sent it anyway even though it is not a laptop or phone. Keep up the good work
The proof that the relay contacts are bad is the inconsistent ohm reading when the contacts are closed. You can sand smooth the contacts to get by sometimes but a new relay is the best repair option.
More industrial repairs please
i haved always learned everything for you sir,
Din experiența mea proprie, releele trebuiesc schimbate, chiar dacă le desfaci și le curăți, tot vor creea probleme... Amintește-ți de platină 1310😅, vă dați seama dacă alimentează motoare ce curenți de comutație suportă aceste contacte mai ales la start. Viața acestor relee sa dus.
O zi frumoasă!
There are a lot of angry , sick people out here on the other side of the screen, please don't let them be involved in your thoughts, you provide a wonderful channel for people to learn, please don't let them ruin that.
Sorin on the “HOSE” socket there looks like a dark pin and on the plastic it looks like it’s got hot the 2 pins to the left of the relay
It's KGTechnologies or Hongfa.
Graco makes membrane pumps.
Couldn't find the relay anywhere.
A tough job. Intermittent fault on a board, no drawings. Chances high that it's a relay but you can't be sure. If I can't find anything on the bench, I normally go to the factory and fault-find on the machine. That way, all the conditions are set up correctly and the fault is most likely to show. Then you can pinpoint it. I don't know if that's practical for you and it depends on how important that board is. If it's critical, factories will pay anything to get their machine back up and running because they are losing production and that's massive expense.
I normally contact the manufacturer of the machine and find out what they have to offer. They might give you drawings. They might supply spare boards. If you can get drawings and you can go to the factory, that is your best bet. Or a replacement board and you can mark that up and make something.
The nice thing about industrial is you can bill for everything. As long as their machine works, they are always happy
The relay part numbers should cross over to quite a few replacements. You have to match the coil voltage, and then the contact voltage and current. Other than the footprint, older 12V automotive Headlight relays should work. I have a number of 40 Amp automotive relays for robot projects.
Industrial things are usually easier to work on, you get schematics, repair manuals and it's made easy to disassemble unlike most consumer stuff. There's no nonsense, they can't pull the Apple-type nonsense with industrial products. I have a friend who fixes avionics for a living, he won't touch an Ipad.
Your a verry good teacher
Industrial electronics can be a pain. Yes, most faults are simple and obvious. However, when you can't find those big faults where do you go? The boards are usually quite simple. Maybe a handful of smd components and chips and everything tests good on a meter.
very interesting, thank you very much for sharing!
Thanks for this good learning vid.
I have worked on industrial electronics and quite often the customer will send in a board like this with no fault details, you have no idea what it is from or what it does and yet you got to repair it. If this was a board I received I would have removed the relays and checked them as not always safe to do in the circuit because of back emf. checked all the semiconductors perhaps do a cap change. nMost of the time items like this are returned untested as you haven't the technical information.
Very good job. I'm new to watching you and love how you explain how the circuits work. Im trying to learn.
I really enjoyed this video.
This was a very hard fault to find. Nice testing technique.
Maybe you should add industrial electronics to your website and profit from it. There's demand for it, that's for sure!
Wow that *is* a serious heatsink :D
Good stuff as usual Sorin.
Thank you for the video
kg doesn't produce these relays anymore. You can only do a botch job using another relay, but you would need to make sure how many amps these motors really take. Maybe check the MOSFET specs. A 40A carrying botch job would not be easy. But probably you don't need 40A. You could also ask the customer if he has another broken board.
Agree KG doesn't list those relays and there doesn't seem to be anything similar from big manufacturers. Not sure if I agree about not needing 40A as the relay has probably failed due to current exceeding 40A (or 250v ac). Might be worth seeing if it's switching DC and if so if any back EMF diode is functional.
The load might be low voltage DC. Not sure, would need to check the circuit board and mosfet circuit. In case the load is a 12v dc motor he could just use 2 40A automotive relays. They are cheap and easy to wire up.
Most likely there is no emf diode directly over the relay contacts, even if you have a DC inductive load, because the mosfets are likely set up as a bridge to reverse the polarity when needed.
Thank you so much! !!
few ppl repair there devices these days we live in the utopia of waist ...but industry needs things back ...it makes sense
Put load on it and switch it
This was a 3 minute job and it took me 2 minutes to find that relay online
Great detecting.
Thanks Great Men☺️
Hi Sorin. What microphone do you use? Thanks!
Please explain how you could safely inject many amps like that on the circuit (on the relay) safely? The current won't stay in only in the relay, right? It will affect the whole board right? (Sorry for the basic question, I'm a beginner)