Had a torque converter code on my 1997. After watching several video's I came across yours on taking out the tranny and decided I could do it myself in the driveway. Your step by step clear video and comments made it happen. Saved several hundred bucks because of your video. Thanks
@@hittlerbrito3236 Yes, tried that. Put in the transmission medic stuff and drove it gently for a year. Finally gave up the ghost and just revs but doesn't move. Pulling the transmission again to get it rebuilt.
I’m just about to do this! Thank you so much for the video, I thought i would have to pull the whole engine and transmission together to swap it out. This makes me feel so much better about doing this!
Great that you covered how to gain access for removal AND every fastener and connection to the trans. Now I'm hoping you have as detailed of an install video. If not, I guess it's just the reversal of removal. PS: Loved that Toyota tug (with the totaled red CRV in the mud). Made me chuckle. ;- ) CHEERS!
@The Honda Resource Appreciate the contents you put up .. my Mechanic recently did a Transmission Swap on my RD1 AT Trans and the end result was when he started it and shifted to D it picked up a bit but then just idled.. idling through all the Gears.. I changed Fluid and all sensors.. could it be the Torque converter or some sensor I'm missing.. no Check Engine light... Help me out brother..
The gear lever beside the steering wheel in the first gen crv gets pretty awkward to maneuver. Have you ever changed out the lever and mechanism to fit a more modern gen model?
A great video what else should you be changing when swapping out A manual 1st generation Honda CRV transmission For example throw out Bearing flywheel transmission mountain
This video is very insightful, I have a 1997 honda CR-V that cannot shift gears when putting it into D4, D3, 2 and 1 but can reverse, this happened after D4 light started blinking, it stopped blinking after sometime and I topped up the Automatic Transmission fluid to the required level as per dipstick. Any idea what could be the problem you helpp will be appreciated.
Any ideas 01 crv awd auto. Slips into n while driving after it gets to temp. Should i change fluid few times, change solenoids, or rebuild has 180k seen multiple answers to the problem ?
My 2000 shifted fine before auto fluid change. No slip occurring. Now have to let off gas for it to shift from 2nd to third and 3rd to 4th. Any ideas appreciated. Love the videos.
@@hondaresource Drain and refill. 250k Broke the connector to the shift solenoid when replacing the transmission mount (long story). Replaced with used from eBay. I may be answering my question with the broken shift solenoid.
Q? Is there a filter in the transmission that can be changed? Is it hard to change? Tried flushing but my crv still does not down shift when going up steep hills (sticks in tall gear). Great work!
Having issues with my 98 AWD automatic CRV. Drive good till I get to the highway, doesn't go pass 80mhp and feels like it wants to change to a next gear after 4th. When I get to a full stop and turning off the car for a few minutes, then driving off again, all gears take its time to change but once I unplugged the battery for more than 15mins, like it resets itself then the car drives fine again. Please any help would appreciate it.
Hi, I have a question. You mentioned turning the crankshaft counterclockwise when removing the bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter. In that clip it looks like the belt has been removed from the pulley. Do you have to remove the belts before turning the crankshaft?
So I just had my motor rebuilt currently no fluides other then oil in the pan,my question is whej i removed the hoses above the trans I noticed it was red so that’s obviously trans fluid but my question is how do I fill it back up ? I noticed it was connect to the rad as well ,just confused as I’ve never removed. Auto trans so trying figure out what what
Hey buddy, I can’t tell you how much I’ve learned from watching your videos. Anyway, quick question. I have a 1998 CRV four-wheel-drive, can I take that transmission out and replace it with 2wd from the same year and make?? Another words would it be the same just I won’t have four-wheel-drive? Everything bolt up and function like it should?
Thank you very much, this helped me greatly, I just finished my trans swap and your video made it super easy. Only thing was that the 4wd has a different bracket near the shift cable cover and different shift cable linkage but that wasn't hard for me to figure out how to get off. I do have a question about the transmission range sensor if you would like to answer, maybe I can shoot you an email
Hello are you able to show us where the filter transmission is inside located? Or better how to change a filter transmission that I was told it's a shape of a small muffler.
@@hondaresource I recently changed my filter inside the transmission ,but after the reassembly of the tranny the mechanic no longer getting the parking brake to engage and the van. cAn only start in neutral.what could be the problem.
I'm a big fan of your videos, thanks so much. I have a long running problem with the way my '97 CR-V shifts. On occasion, when it shifts from 3rd to 4th it will drop into neutral. When I let off the gas it will then shift like it should. It will even more rarely do this between 4th and 5th. It has done this since I first bought the car 6 years and 30,000 miles ago. It doesn't seem to be getting worse, but it definitely drives me crazy. If I shut off the engine for 30 seconds of so and restart, the problems usually disappears. Any ideas? I checked the fluid level and it's fine. I've considered a fluid change but there is no drain plug.
I swapped mine on my 2000. Does not run correctly. Takes forever to accelerate and will not pick up speed. Is this most likely a mistake I made or bad transmission? No warning light. Awesome videos btw.
Hello, just to start off I love your videos Bro 🤙🏼 thanks for all the vids and knowledge you share with us🙏🏼 I have a 99 crv that I'm swapping out a trans it's automatic but the original owner gave me a extra jdm automatic transmission wondering if it's easy plug and play swap?
It's not AWD either bro but I read up in some old forums about it idling slightly higher because of the torque converter if I'm not mistaken but that I can be driven with no issues but with a check engine like which I don't mind..
I'm stuck in installing the next transaxle. What is the trick? The rotating centers are aligned but the back 19mm bolts are off. Is there suggested order? The top 3 17mm bolts are aligned but the back 19mm are not. The dowls are not aligned; they are too far apart from the housing. It is suppended from a hoist and we have a floor jack. Any tips would be great.
Did you figure it out and get it installed? The transmission on my '98 CRV finally died around two weeks ago and it's just shy of the 299K mark. I've been scouring youtube vids to see if I can handle this job.
@@hondaphan4172 No. I didn't figure it out. YET. It feels like the correctly ordered steps to install would be very helpful. It is one of those parts that you need to know where the hammer it just right to make it fit or which bolt goes first. There are two outside dowels and the main one in the middle of the circular flex plate. Something is blocking mine from mating the two outside dowels. I'm probably doing something wrong. There are two 17mm nuts on the mount under the air box. Maybe taking those threaded rods completely out would give enough wiggle room to get the dowels mated. It seems easy, but I cannot find videos of an installation, step by step.
@@hondaphan4172 Obviously I'm not a pro, so take these steps with that consideration. Finished installation last night and turned the engine over and the donor transmission does sound like it is functioning, but the emergency brake is grabbing so hard the CR-V will not roll without lots of noise. Here are my suggested steps in order: 1. With the transmission on the ground, insert the torque converter onto the shaft of the trans. There are 3 sections, so 3 'clicks', you are done when the torque converter is not flush with the housing but inset by 1/8 in. 2. Lift trans, I used a homemade hoist and 3 jacks, (1 jack for trans, 1 jack for engine, 1 ) and guide the two cone shaped mounting threads under the air box into the mount, 17mm nuts. As the threaded rod is just entering the mount, go under and slide the 14mm bolt into the side of the transfer case with the Y shaped bracket. Keep all that loose. The exhaust pipe will block the 14mm bolt, 130mm long, if you lift the trans into place. The Y bracket has two 12mm bolts of different lengths that screw into the engine, the bottom of the Y is the hole for the 14mm bolt going into the side of the transfer case. Lift a little higher, then place another jack under the transfer case and lift it higher, keeping tabs on the Y bracket. Use a small long bolt as a guide for the 17mm above the transfer case next to the two 19mm bolt holes. Lift watching the dowel in the front. put the two 17mm mounting nuts on, about half way, you may need wiggle room. The next blocking item is the center of the torque converter. It needs to align with the flex plate on the engine. Lift the engine with another jack until the trans housing slowly comes to the engine. The aluminum is soft so don't force the 17mm housing bolts until the housing is close to alignment. Tighten the two 17mm mounting nuts, tighten the 14mm bolt in the side of the transfer case, that will pull the back over so the 3 bolts above the transfer case will align. It has to be close. There is a second dowel pin on the back side as well. The mount on the right front should be added to provide more alignment. At some point during this wrestling match the housing will align and the 17mm housing bolts will screw in by hand. There are 7 housing bolts, 2 of which are 19mm. Then put a 19mm socket on the crankcase, turning clockwise per one pro. Align the flex plate holes with the torque converter holes, screw in the 8 10mm bolts hand tight because if you leave one up, it will jam hard when rotating the crankcase. Then tighten. From there it should be down hill, electrical connections, cooling tubes. We bolted the cooling tubes in first then the 10mm clamping bolts with some wrestling. With the transfer case bolt in tight, then add the drive shaft, 4 bolts with a 12 pt 12mm I think.Then the starter. Add the shifter cable and the plate, cover over the flex plate. The right front axle is easier. Good videos on that. The left front axle needs to compress to about 24.5 inches. If not, hold it vertical and bang it on the carpeted floor. castle nuts and fork bolts and tires. Fill the transmission with fluid; I would run the engine for 5 minutes or so then drain the fluid out to inspect what comes out. You have no idea what the donor transmission condition is. Inspecting the junk yard CR-V, it looks like the timing belt broke and the owner gave up, so my donor should be ok. Transmission fluid is running about $70, so if it looks good, refill and drive. Have fun. Note: Pro repair minus my parts cost divided by hours spent gets me somewhere at $100-$150 per hour in savings. Big job but worth it, minus the stupid mistakes of course.
@@stevebowling6884 Thanks for the detailed installation tips and tricks. I'll admit my head was spinning from all of the info that you provided...gonna have to read it a number of times to visualize the process. Thanks.
Another great video, Phillip. I was wondering if you've had any experience with the jdm engines which come from Japan. My 2001 crv is starting to burn oil and will probably have to swap out the engine soon.. Its nothing that has to do with the head cause it only has 5000 miles on it.. most likely rings in cylinder 4. Thanks for any info.
Have a 1997 CR-V. Replaced my oil pan gasket twice. The first time, leaked almost right away after using an aftermarket part. Cleaned everything around the engine to make sure it was the oil pan that was leaking. Used an OEM gasket from Honda and it leaked after a few months. Usually, never have this sort of problem with Hondas. I use only OEM, Shop Manuals. Have you posted a video on this issue? Cheers
Thanks for the video. My 2000 CRV was struggling shifting from 3 to 4 so I changed the fluid, the linear solenoid and the shift solenoid on the top of the trans. I have no replaced the shift solenoid on the side of the transmission. Now the transmission won’t move when I put it in drive. I can replace the passenger side solenoid but not sure if that will help. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I did change the fluid and actually found the issue. I didn’t disconnect the negative battery terminal when I changed the solenoids and apparently the ECU needs a reset. I erased the DTC with my OBII reader but resetting the ECU is needed. The transmission shifts smoothly through all gears and replacing the solenoids appeared to do the trick. Thanks again for the quick reply to my question.
@@slorice8723 so changing the solenoid and fluid fixed the issue? has it been good ever since? where did you get the solenoids? and one more thing lol you replaced both solenoids, top and side?
@@aaleexsaalaazaar I ended up getting a rebuilt transmission. I changed the fluid several times as well as all the solenoids. I’m pretty sure the torque converter was shot at 239K miles. It’s interesting, when installing a rebuilt transmission it took 7 quarts of fluid. I did install a external cooler that took about 1/2 quart.
Hey man I love your videos I just recently replaced a 2000 Acura Integra automatic transmission everything shift into gear fine but when put in to park it start making a loud cranky noise from the transmission. I’ve put in all new fluids also. Any idea what might be the problem? Please help
Hey there I replaced trans with your help yesterday. Problem though on down pipe I now have an exhaust leak because the bolts or nuts are wrecked. Do you know where I can find replacements or just what dimensions those are so I can pick them up at hardware store?
Big fan off your videos I have a 1999 Honda CR-V that keeps giving me misfires in cylinder 1 and 3 and I’ve changed the cables the spark plugs and the ignition but it keeps giving me the misfires any advice you could give me ?
Where are you located? My son's 2001 crv just had his transmission pump go out. Can't afford to pay for a rebuild. Live in San Jose, CA. Know anyone out here that can help?
Had a torque converter code on my 1997. After watching several video's I came across yours on taking out the tranny and decided I could do it myself in the driveway. Your step by step clear video and comments made it happen. Saved several hundred bucks because of your video. Thanks
Got everything back in and.....still overrevs with the torque converter light thing on. Ugh.....
@@bixby9797 what did you do now?
@@bixby9797 have you try unplugging the battery for more than 15 mins and see what happens
Wow luckily you had a code pop up. I try readying mines and only reads 3 errors.🤦 nothing about transmission or torque converter
@@hittlerbrito3236 Yes, tried that. Put in the transmission medic stuff and drove it gently for a year. Finally gave up the ghost and just revs but doesn't move. Pulling the transmission again to get it rebuilt.
Just used this video to pull mine out, you make it look incredibly easy man! Thanks for the guide! ✊🏽
Glad it helped!
I've been looking for that input speed sensor on my transmission for days! It's crammed way at the end of it 😆 thank you! 🙌 No more bad shifts
Good stuff
I’m just about to do this! Thank you so much for the video, I thought i would have to pull the whole engine and transmission together to swap it out. This makes me feel so much better about doing this!
Good luck!
gracias por compartir estos buenos conceptos para la remosión de la transmisión cr-v honda primera generación.
De nada!
Great that you covered how to gain access for removal AND every fastener and connection to the trans. Now I'm hoping you have as detailed of an install video. If not, I guess it's just the reversal of removal. PS: Loved that Toyota tug (with the totaled red CRV in the mud). Made me chuckle. ;- ) CHEERS!
I don't know if I had a detailed install or not
What are the torque specs for joining the flywheel to the flexplate? The manual says 19, but they snapped off, now I have to remove them
Thanks for another great video on the CRV . well done.
@The Honda Resource
Appreciate the contents you put up ..
my Mechanic recently did a Transmission Swap on my RD1 AT Trans and the end result was when he started it and shifted to D it picked up a bit but then just idled.. idling through all the Gears.. I changed Fluid and all sensors.. could it be the Torque converter or some sensor I'm missing.. no Check Engine light... Help me out brother..
Also I cant believe how clean your stuff is.. Alabama winters must be kind to cars... unlike up here in iowa!
Rust is pretty non existent here
The gear lever beside the steering wheel in the first gen crv gets pretty awkward to maneuver. Have you ever changed out the lever and mechanism to fit a more modern gen model?
Thanks for the video about to attempt this weekend. Quick quesion did you drain the transmission fluid?
You don't have to but you can if you desire to.
Good video👍👍 had a automatic transmission line blow at the radiator today on a 2001 CRV lost some fluid what type does it require
I recommend oe Honda fluid.
A great video what else should you be changing when swapping out A manual 1st generation Honda CRV transmission For example throw out Bearing flywheel transmission mountain
This video is very insightful, I have a 1997 honda CR-V that
cannot shift gears when putting it into D4, D3, 2 and 1 but can reverse,
this happened after D4 light started blinking, it stopped blinking after sometime and
I topped up the Automatic Transmission fluid to the required level as per dipstick.
Any idea what could be the problem you helpp will be appreciated.
Any ideas 01 crv awd auto. Slips into n while driving after it gets to temp. Should i change fluid few times, change solenoids, or rebuild has 180k seen multiple answers to the problem ?
thankyou! great video
My 2000 shifted fine before auto fluid change. No slip occurring. Now have to let off gas for it to shift from 2nd to third and 3rd to 4th. Any ideas appreciated. Love the videos.
Did you do a drain and fill or power flush
@@hondaresource Drain and refill. 250k Broke the connector to the shift solenoid when replacing the transmission mount (long story). Replaced with used from eBay. I may be answering my question with the broken shift solenoid.
Q? Is there a filter in the transmission that can be changed? Is it hard to change? Tried flushing but my crv still does not down shift when going up steep hills (sticks in tall gear). Great work!
It can only be changed by rebuilding the transmission
Having issues with my 98 AWD automatic CRV. Drive good till I get to the highway, doesn't go pass 80mhp and feels like it wants to change to a next gear after 4th. When I get to a full stop and turning off the car for a few minutes, then driving off again, all gears take its time to change but once I unplugged the battery for more than 15mins, like it resets itself then the car drives fine again. Please any help would appreciate it.
thanks for all your great videos!
Is there a transmission fluid filter I need to change when I change the transmission fluid?
No trans filter to worry about.
And bolts the would be a good idea to replace when doing a transmission swap on a 1 gen
Hi, I have a question. You mentioned turning the crankshaft counterclockwise when removing the bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter. In that clip it looks like the belt has been removed from the pulley. Do you have to remove the belts before turning the crankshaft?
No sir
@@hondaresource Appreciate the response! Thanks for making such helpful videos. You've saved me a lot of money over the years.
So I just had my motor rebuilt currently no fluides other then oil in the pan,my question is whej i removed the hoses above the trans I noticed it was red so that’s obviously trans fluid but my question is how do I fill it back up ? I noticed it was connect to the rad as well ,just confused as I’ve never removed. Auto trans so trying figure out what what
Hey buddy, I can’t tell you how much I’ve learned from watching your videos. Anyway, quick question. I have a 1998 CRV four-wheel-drive, can I take that transmission out and replace it with 2wd from the same year and make?? Another words would it be the same just I won’t have four-wheel-drive? Everything bolt up and function like it should?
As far as I know. I had one here not long ago that someone did that to. I haven't done it myself though
@@hondaresource thanks buddy
Thank you very much, this helped me greatly, I just finished my trans swap and your video made it super easy. Only thing was that the 4wd has a different bracket near the shift cable cover and different shift cable linkage but that wasn't hard for me to figure out how to get off. I do have a question about the transmission range sensor if you would like to answer, maybe I can shoot you an email
phillip@thehondaresource.com
Hello sir what’s the problem of transmission 1998 crv disengaging transmission but when you turn off engine and turn on again it works again
Hello are you able to show us where the filter transmission is inside located? Or better how to change a filter transmission that I was told it's a shape of a small muffler.
That would require disassembly of transmission and I don't work on auto transmissions
@@hondaresource oh, is it really taking out the whole transmission? Or can it just be done from the side passenger side wheel to take that filter out?
@@hondaresource I recently changed my filter inside the transmission ,but after the reassembly of the tranny the mechanic no longer getting the parking brake to engage and the van. cAn only start in neutral.what could be the problem.
I'm a big fan of your videos, thanks so much. I have a long running problem with the way my '97 CR-V shifts. On occasion, when it shifts from 3rd to 4th it will drop into neutral. When I let off the gas it will then shift like it should. It will even more rarely do this between 4th and 5th. It has done this since I first bought the car 6 years and 30,000 miles ago. It doesn't seem to be getting worse, but it definitely drives me crazy. If I shut off the engine for 30 seconds of so and restart, the problems usually disappears. Any ideas? I checked the fluid level and it's fine. I've considered a fluid change but there is no drain plug.
There is no drain plug? Have you considered changing the solenoids?
I swapped mine on my 2000. Does not run correctly. Takes forever to accelerate and will not pick up speed. Is this most likely a mistake I made or bad transmission? No warning light. Awesome videos btw.
hmmm. kinda sounds like you may have a bad trans
How do I convert 1999 Honda CR-V from A.W.D. to 2wd?
Take the driveshaft out🤣
@@hondaresource thank you for your reply. Your awesome..
Hello, just to start off I love your videos Bro 🤙🏼 thanks for all the vids and knowledge you share with us🙏🏼
I have a 99 crv that I'm swapping out a trans it's automatic but the original owner gave me a extra jdm automatic transmission wondering if it's easy plug and play swap?
It's not AWD either bro but I read up in some old forums about it idling slightly higher because of the torque converter if I'm not mistaken but that I can be driven with no issues but with a check engine like which I don't mind..
I'm not 100% sure on the crv's I know several of the other Honda's the jdm trans will "work" but usually isn't "right"
I'm stuck in installing the next transaxle. What is the trick? The rotating centers are aligned but the back 19mm bolts are off. Is there suggested order? The top 3 17mm bolts are aligned but the back 19mm are not. The dowls are not aligned; they are too far apart from the housing. It is suppended from a hoist and we have a floor jack. Any tips would be great.
Did you figure it out and get it installed? The transmission on my '98 CRV finally died around two weeks ago and it's just shy of the 299K mark. I've been scouring youtube vids to see if I can handle this job.
@@hondaphan4172 No. I didn't figure it out. YET. It feels like the correctly ordered steps to install would be very helpful. It is one of those parts that you need to know where the hammer it just right to make it fit or which bolt goes first. There are two outside dowels and the main one in the middle of the circular flex plate. Something is blocking mine from mating the two outside dowels. I'm probably doing something wrong. There are two 17mm nuts on the mount under the air box. Maybe taking those threaded rods completely out would give enough wiggle room to get the dowels mated. It seems easy, but I cannot find videos of an installation, step by step.
@@stevebowling6884 Ok, thanks for the info. Please keep us posted. Thanks again.
@@hondaphan4172 Obviously I'm not a pro, so take these steps with that consideration. Finished installation last night and turned the engine over and the donor transmission does sound like it is functioning, but the emergency brake is grabbing so hard the CR-V will not roll without lots of noise. Here are my suggested steps in order: 1. With the transmission on the ground, insert the torque converter onto the shaft of the trans. There are 3 sections, so 3 'clicks', you are done when the torque converter is not flush with the housing but inset by 1/8 in. 2. Lift trans, I used a homemade hoist and 3 jacks, (1 jack for trans, 1 jack for engine, 1 ) and guide the two cone shaped mounting threads under the air box into the mount, 17mm nuts. As the threaded rod is just entering the mount, go under and slide the 14mm bolt into the side of the transfer case with the Y shaped bracket. Keep all that loose. The exhaust pipe will block the 14mm bolt, 130mm long, if you lift the trans into place. The Y bracket has two 12mm bolts of different lengths that screw into the engine, the bottom of the Y is the hole for the 14mm bolt going into the side of the transfer case. Lift a little higher, then place another jack under the transfer case and lift it higher, keeping tabs on the Y bracket. Use a small long bolt as a guide for the 17mm above the transfer case next to the two 19mm bolt holes. Lift watching the dowel in the front. put the two 17mm mounting nuts on, about half way, you may need wiggle room. The next blocking item is the center of the torque converter. It needs to align with the flex plate on the engine. Lift the engine with another jack until the trans housing slowly comes to the engine. The aluminum is soft so don't force the 17mm housing bolts until the housing is close to alignment. Tighten the two 17mm mounting nuts, tighten the 14mm bolt in the side of the transfer case, that will pull the back over so the 3 bolts above the transfer case will align. It has to be close. There is a second dowel pin on the back side as well. The mount on the right front should be added to provide more alignment. At some point during this wrestling match the housing will align and the 17mm housing bolts will screw in by hand. There are 7 housing bolts, 2 of which are 19mm. Then put a 19mm socket on the crankcase, turning clockwise per one pro. Align the flex plate holes with the torque converter holes, screw in the 8 10mm bolts hand tight because if you leave one up, it will jam hard when rotating the crankcase. Then tighten. From there it should be down hill, electrical connections, cooling tubes. We bolted the cooling tubes in first then the 10mm clamping bolts with some wrestling. With the transfer case bolt in tight, then add the drive shaft, 4 bolts with a 12 pt 12mm I think.Then the starter. Add the shifter cable and the plate, cover over the flex plate. The right front axle is easier. Good videos on that. The left front axle needs to compress to about 24.5 inches. If not, hold it vertical and bang it on the carpeted floor. castle nuts and fork bolts and tires. Fill the transmission with fluid; I would run the engine for 5 minutes or so then drain the fluid out to inspect what comes out. You have no idea what the donor transmission condition is. Inspecting the junk yard CR-V, it looks like the timing belt broke and the owner gave up, so my donor should be ok. Transmission fluid is running about $70, so if it looks good, refill and drive. Have fun. Note: Pro repair minus my parts cost divided by hours spent gets me somewhere at $100-$150 per hour in savings. Big job but worth it, minus the stupid mistakes of course.
@@stevebowling6884 Thanks for the detailed installation tips and tricks. I'll admit my head was spinning from all of the info that you provided...gonna have to read it a number of times to visualize the process. Thanks.
Another great video, Phillip. I was wondering if you've had any experience with the jdm engines which come from Japan. My 2001 crv is starting to burn oil and will probably have to swap out the engine soon.. Its nothing that has to do with the head cause it only has 5000 miles on it.. most likely rings in cylinder 4. Thanks for any info.
Man I've put probably 10-15 jdm engines in these over the years
Have a 1997 CR-V. Replaced my oil pan gasket twice. The first time, leaked almost right away after using an aftermarket part. Cleaned everything around the engine to make sure it was the oil pan that was leaking. Used an OEM gasket from Honda and it leaked after a few months. Usually, never have this sort of problem with Hondas. I use only OEM, Shop Manuals. Have you posted a video on this issue? Cheers
ua-cam.com/video/Y15fKjW9F1M/v-deo.html
This is the best on the market, hands down.
Was entertaining the idea of using one of these gaskets and now I know why. You rock brother. Cheers
You won't regret it
Thanks for the video. My 2000 CRV was struggling shifting from 3 to 4 so I changed the fluid, the linear solenoid and the shift solenoid on the top of the trans. I have no replaced the shift solenoid on the side of the transmission. Now the transmission won’t move when I put it in drive. I can replace the passenger side solenoid but not sure if that will help. Any ideas would be appreciated.
did you drain and fill the fluid or power flush it?
I did change the fluid and actually found the issue. I didn’t disconnect the negative battery terminal when I changed the solenoids and apparently the ECU needs a reset. I erased the DTC with my OBII reader but resetting the ECU is needed. The transmission shifts smoothly through all gears and replacing the solenoids appeared to do the trick. Thanks again for the quick reply to my question.
@@slorice8723 so changing the solenoid and fluid fixed the issue? has it been good ever since? where did you get the solenoids? and one more thing lol you replaced both solenoids, top and side?
@@aaleexsaalaazaar I ended up getting a rebuilt transmission. I changed the fluid several times as well as all the solenoids. I’m pretty sure the torque converter was shot at 239K miles. It’s interesting, when installing a rebuilt transmission it took 7 quarts of fluid. I did install a external cooler that took about 1/2 quart.
Ever try rebuilding one of these transmissions?
Yes but not something I care to do again
The transmission on my 1st gen crv is going out. What is a fair price to replace it? I'm in Arizona looking for a mechanic.
labor rates vary. Here a swap out would run about $1500 parts and labor. A rebuild would run about $2200
Hey man I love your videos I just recently replaced a 2000 Acura Integra automatic transmission everything shift into gear fine but when put in to park it start making a loud cranky noise from the transmission. I’ve put in all new fluids also. Any idea what might be the problem? Please help
I don't really know much about auto trans internals, but it sounds like you have some issues
Hey there I replaced trans with your help yesterday. Problem though on down pipe I now have an exhaust leak because the bolts or nuts are wrecked. Do you know where I can find replacements or just what dimensions those are so I can pick them up at hardware store?
I’m talking about the 3 that connect to manifold
They are available through honda, part number 90212-SA5-003 or you can go to your hardware store. The thread pitch is m10x1.25
Big fan off your videos I have a 1999 Honda CR-V that keeps giving me misfires in cylinder 1 and 3 and I’ve changed the cables the spark plugs and the ignition but it keeps giving me the misfires any advice you could give me ?
Adjust the valves and check compression
@@hondaresource ok thanks
Torque converter bolt tighten specs?
10ft/lb
Big fan 🙂
Thanks, I appreciate it
hi.. do you have a video of rebuilding crv AT transmission in details???
I have a transmission shop do the actual rebuild?
This is an excellent video! Can you get away without removing the B pipe? I assume the bolts on mine, will not come apart nicely….
You may be able to but the easiest way is to remove the pipe.
i will be doing this now. they quoted me 4 grand at the dealership
Sheesh. I recently pulled one and had it rebuilt for the customer. I think all in all, labor and rebuild was around $2500
@@hondaresource if you got any rebuild kit reference numbers, please send my way. Thank you.
i got a 4 speed AT 20021-PDM-A60 in this 2001 CRV. any info is much appreciated.
Dang u r a crv pro wish i live close to u
Thank you
Where are you located? My son's 2001 crv just had his transmission pump go out. Can't afford to pay for a rebuild. Live in San Jose, CA. Know anyone out here that can help?
I'm in Alabama
Aren't the transmissions in the 1997-1998 Different then 1999-2000 I thought the newer ones had overdrive?
Correct but the process is near identical for all 97-01
@@hondaresource thanks for the reply
Do you need to drain the fluid?
I recommend it to avoid making a mess, but it's possible without draining
How do you get the torque converter off
once you get the transmission out, it slides right out of the transmission
👍 I would like to know where this guy's shop is 😅 I want to be a customer 😂
I'm in Alabama
How much would you charge to swap the transmission on the car
Roughly 450 including the fluid
@@hondaresource hey can i get your infor to contact u