Aww. Don't be so harsh on the guy. Drip welding can be a bit tricky. For those of you who are unaware, Drip welding is when you melt the filler material a few inches above the joint and then drip it onto the joint.
Your right 👍.. sheet metal is thin so sometimes you have to wipe it in so you don't burn through the metal...We as master weldors have been around before the biblical Days....We are MASTERS 😊 !
Remember What Jesus said about us in the Bible ; Let your LIGHT so SHINE that Men may see your Good Work and Glorify your Father in Heaven.... Everytime we Strike a ARC and finish a Project,Men Will Be able to see our Good Works as Master Weldors and that's the Truth 😎✌️🔥....
1. Adjust your settings correctly 2. Make sure you're using the correct polarity (DCEN) for flux 3. Proper stick out length 4. Drag, don't push 5. Redo the video since you missed steps 1-4 🤣
flux core is a totally different animal than TIG or MIG. I build custom cars and I have been using flux core for over 20 years. Is it the best way? absolutely not. you just have to learn to do it. if you have a big shop, then you use MIG. you can take flux core anywhere
@@maryfitzgerald6209 you can use flux core without gas my dude and there’s a Hobart (decent lil welder) down here at a shop there’s harbor freight I bought a Vulcan for $1300 and it’s literally performed on par or better than my millers or Lincoln’s it’s always nice to have top of the line I guess if you like showing off your stuff rather than using it and of course someone stuff just performs better but when there’s viable options it’s lazy af to say “I can’t do that” 😅 not hatin just hopefully informing
Its all a question of penetration, you could also use mcaw for massive strenght and full penetration, but in my opinion for car and pipes you use mostly tig welding ...
@@thebrodstar just make sure you’re doing it correctly (it is at the same time hard to fck up and so easy to fck up) look up the setting suggestions and start there then find what works best for you. Us the right stuff even harbor crushin sells most fmaw/gmaw hell even mmaw stuff I’m sure there’s more than enough videos to help out on here just try to find the ones with actual welders giving props to the creator. I don’t know all the technical shit I’ve jus theme doing it for 20+years self taught with a lil help here and there from some grumpy old asshole (truly appreciate that dickhead tbh) I just know minimal terminology mine is more that’s there works that there ain’t worth a shit but I love welding to my core. I say all that to say this… you prolly just snagged a new (very expensive) habit 😅🫡
@@johnmitchell4242not sure about this guys rig, but on mine the manual says to run the + on the clamp when running flux core (gasless) and switch the + to the stinger when using solid wire with gas.
Well not everyone has the option to spend 6 to $700+ just on a welder I bought the titanium flux 125 welder from harbor freight on sale for $200 and it does a fine job
Honestly your fcaw welds look better then your mig welds. With .023 wire you should not be built up that much on any pass. Those plug welds are especially concerning. I also stray away from fcaw for sheet metal because of the amount of heat you dump into the metal. Much more chance to burn through or warp the panel. But it is where I started in sheet metal repair and now I do have the luxury of mig or tig at my disposal.
I’m trying to learn. I’m trying to fill holes in 20 gauge and it keeps instantly blowing out. I’ve tried adjusting the wire speed and voltage and nothing has stopped it. Any tips
@@jeff666p when welding sheet metal set the amperage to the welders specified setting for that gauge of Steel. You just want to bump the trigger. if you hold the trigger down it will blow through. if you just bump it put a small tack on a small tack on a small tack. Welding sheet metal can be very tedious.🛠
@@eddieabernathy5998please do a video. and who cares if a floor pan patch is ugly anyhow. I want to mess with a beater jeep for fun but don't know how to start. there's 10 billion welders on yt and 11 billion unique expert opinions.
flux core is great for lazy prep which is a lot of us diy. underseal ? yep itll blast right through, paint ? yep no problem, rust .... yep and many blow throughs hahaha. its good for outdoor purposes and those who like to chase around rust holes
It's best to round the corners of your patches to reduce instances of cracking and keep the heat low. Keep your ground as close as you can and clean all the paint and rust off before you weld.
Drill holes to the metal near the edge of the replacement overlapping piece, and weld the drilled holes and grind it off afrerwards to have clean looks and is welded, also can apply polyurethane to the crevices to keep moisture and water out, at the end apply coating or rust paint to help resist rust.
I like my flux core welder because I can take it pretty much anywhere and set it up in no time. What I don't like is that fluff it makes that obstructs my view of the weld. I use the gas welder for anything that requires any precision
When using fcaw I highly recommend spraying your work area with anti-splatter , the bbs can’t stick and bounce right off the metal , still more cleanup then mig but it’s the trade off for not running/buying argon
about 6 months of learning to use a TIG welder and my weld looks like that on the left with same huge beads. I spend more time grinding and wasting filler rods. Now my welds are much smoother and less time grinding.
I’ve just got into welding and using flux core, and even I know with next to no experience that this isn’t the fault of what he’s using, it’s him not knowing what he’s doing!
I welded my diff for a cheap possi-trac over the weekend and me welds didn’t look like that. BUT I also know how to weld and use flux-core wire, it’s not the material or tool, but the user.
I like both but gas and solid wire is better for body welding but i just got 2 stuck bolts out with a flux wire by welding a nut on them the trick is to get it on the first shot
Looks like u just followed the dumb chart and went to work without practicing on scrap pieces. My welder has a spot timer that works really well for body panels. You're gonna be grinding down your mig welds on panels anyways so why waste the gas?? Flux does just fine once you dial it in.
If you use the correct flux wire that does not happen. There is more to welding then just the machine, knowledge and experience is more valuable than an advertisement. People do your research!!! You don’t need gas for simple metal repairs. And you could be saving yourself a lot of money by doing a little research. Or listening to someone that’s been welding in the industry for a long time.
Shit I welded on new cab corners on my 08 f150 other day with my easy flux 125 first time welding on a vehicle and didn’t have any issue turned out looking great
The price of gas pushed me into using flux core. A little cleanup time is no big deal. And of course your using gas because Eastwood is footing the bill.
This is definitely something that depends on the guy doing the welding. Flux core isn’t as nice as gas BUT it looks a lot better than what’s shown here.
No matter what you do, what process you use, sheet metal on a mass produced car or truck will always be dirty and pop and burn. That’s how it is. It is vital you learn to work with it with what works for you.
You are welding too cold. Flux core is perfectly fine for little things like this. Definitely the operator, not the method of welding. Learn, then make an educated video.
I totally agree with one of the comments that it's not the wire are the machine it's the operator I could say this because I've been doing body works since the 1970s professionally practice makes perfect
Or, just tell them both to get lost and use TIG? As a FCAW guy myself, I totally understand the sentiment about it. It's a little wild. Using the anti-spatter spray helps, though. I can't comment on MIG but I have a buddy at work who says it's like a 180 compared to FCAW. But everything I've read, watched, and thought about, TIG is BY FAR the way to go with almost anything, especially thin stuff. Thoughts?
TIG is ok but tends to warp thin sheet metal more than MIG plus has a lower tolerance for contamination often found when doing floorboards even after they’ve been scrupulously cleaned. I like to save money by making my pieces out of old hoods, doors etc so MIG is the way to go when doing that. Plus it’s a quicker process. FCAW is great for welding rusty stuff together outside in a field.
C'mon, now... FCAW has much more worth. Some of the industry's experts use it within industrial apps with welds that can often be just as strong as those you'd expect from stick jobs. As really, if your TIG (or any) weld warps, it's not being welded correctly using appropriate settings, which isn't reflective of the weld type but rather, the welder.
@@22_floW Have any advice for new DIY welders? I have a precious vehicle that means a lot but there’s some spots here and there. Shops either charge out of my budget or won’t do it.
@BriizCustoms , a "precious vehicle" isn't the kind of project I'd advise getting better at welding or fabrication with, but I guess that just depends on you and the level of sentimental value you're willing to be risky with (to say nothing about the specifics involved in your project). Honestly, you might either be better off continuing your search for a qualified shop who might be able to do whatever work you're needing done at a better cost, or, just suck up the expense you've been quoted if it means having it done by a seasoned professional that's credentialed and certified in the work you're wanting done. Without knowing what work you're working on, it's difficult to say what I think the best approach would be for you. Also understand that I'm not a seasoned pro, myself--I'm just a guy who has welded a few things in his garage. Ha. But I do have experience searching for shops that do the kind of work I think you're beginning to wade into, and from my experiences, what I think you're looking for is a custom fabrication and welding shop who specializes in vehicle restoration. Sound about right? If so, you'll be more likely to have better search results if you look for a shop who specializes in vehicle restorations and who doesn't shy away from rust repair. (From my experiences, if a shop states up front that they do rust repair, that's usually a good sign in terms of being a shop who knows what they're doing whenever it comes to things like fabrication and welding.) You're unlikely to find something like that in a small town or small city, so if you're having problems finding a shop that does that, consider widening your search radius to include a major city. Chances are, you'll have better luck. You might still be quoted a high cost, but it could be worth it. Again, it just depends on what you're wanting to do. If you're wanting to dive into things like body repair (meaning, body panels, patches, dings and dent repair, minor rust repair, and other somewhat minor things), you'll want to be sure you have a good welder that can handle really thin / fine gauges of sheet metal. If it can do aluminum work, too, all the better. Because of those things, I always view TIG welders as being the best possible machines to do this kind of work, but I know you can do good work with a decent MIG machine, too. I believe C25 is good gas to use for either. FCAW can do *some* work like this, but it just depends on specifics. I wouldn't advise FCAW for thin stuff, and even for the thicker stuff it's better with, it will be much more messy. In all cases, be sure you have a good angle grinder with plenty of cut-off wheels (with thin kerfs, too; I'd advise buying some of the Diablo-brand wheels for that). Have plenty of sanding wheels, a few hammers (i.e. - a planishing hammer is great for this kind of work). Pros use things like brakes, shrinkers, and stretchers for complex shaping, so if you have any of those, awesome, but many DIYers do a lot with just the planishing hammer and smart welds--look up Fitze's Fabrication on UA-cam to see what I'm talking about as he's an artist whenever it comes to making a lot with so little. Anti-spatter spray helps a lot with keeping welds clean and having some tip gel will help keep your tips clean for FCAW and MIG. If doing TIG, be sure to have a CK Worldwide superflex torch. A good welding helmet with auto-darkening goes a long way. Adding to all of this, be sure to perform exhaustive research into whatever it is you're going to be working on. Try to get any available service procedures that the manufacturer or aftermarket providers might have as valuable info can be acquired from them to understand the parts you'll need, how they're installed, etc. Join some online communities to pick more brains about your project (i.e. - Reddit > r/fabrication is a great group) and be sure to include pictures, etc. of everything you'll be doing and working with when communicating with your communities (including your machines and tools). They'll have insights about approaches and parts. Speaking of parts, be sure to bookmark McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Get as much info about your vehicle and the kind of panels, structures, sub-structure, etc. it uses, and before doing the work, be sure to not only have as many parts as possible that you'll need for the job, but also backups for those as mistakes will be made before success. And whatever you do, be sure to exploit this opportunity to apply some rust preventative or neutralizer while the panels, etc. are exposed. I'd advise a product called "Corroseal," which is similar to Por-15, and Wool-Wax, which displaces water (look up RepairGeek on UA-cam). If you use this in tandem to areas you plan on welding, be very careful as many undercoating products are flammable. (So for those areas, use an anti-rust product intended to be welded that isn't flammable. Might go without saying, but many people--especially DIYers--often never consider it.) If you're doing anything beyond basic panel work, like more serious stuff related to the frame or even sub-frame, I'd personally advise against tackling it on your own without a seasoned vet being involved (and by "seasoned vet," I'm not talking about a friend or father figure who's worked as a mechanic for 30 years--I'm talking about a credentialed, certified fabricator whose career has comprised of nothing but this kind of work). It's too dangerous to do alone and is often something only specialized shops do. For that kind of work, I can only advise that you just bite whatever quote bullets you're given as long as they're given by said qualified shops, and be sure the work comes with liability assurances because if it doesn't, it means that shop can't do the work to a quality that they're willing to risk their company's name (and financial stability) on. Hope this helps and good luck.
I can't afford the gas. I learned on flux core with an Eastwood 210 welder that came with flux core wire. Practiced on some scrap metal and got it dialed in just right.
Did you swap the cables so the earth is the positive? Im only a farm-grade metal-sticker and master-grinder, but I've never really had the problems you've mentioned. I think something else might be causing you the problems, not the gasless wire.
Yes we swapped polarity - it's a side by side test showing solid vs flux core wire. It's part of a larger video. It has bad results because this isn't the preferred method.
I’ve spent a couple hours messing with flux core, that’s actually my only welding experience. At first my welds looked like his and worse but after a couple hours of burning through your piece and making the biggest globbiest, most porous welds ever seen. You start getting the hang of it. You have to change your angle and distance depending on the material you weld, the location of your weld (underneath something/side/on top) and even the temperature of the metal. I started when it was 40° outside and when summer came around my decent welds started looking like shit
Sorry guy but it looks like operator error on both sides. Gas and solid wire is certainly cleaner but there’s no reason why you can’t get decent welds with flux core especially in windy conditions.
It looks to me like it's not the tools or materials, but the operator.
So true 😂.
Ive always heard "It's not the welder it's the welder"
Grinder and paint makes him the welder he ain’t… I guess 🤷♂️
I was like bro both welds are shot. He's that guy. 😂
And earth looks bad
You know what makes flux core work really well? Don't suck.
haha i have made the metal base for a nice table for a bar to set outside and with my fluxcore it looks realy nice
😂😂😂😂
some of these comments burn more than stick welding in flip flops.
Aww. Don't be so harsh on the guy. Drip welding can be a bit tricky. For those of you who are unaware, Drip welding is when you melt the filler material a few inches above the joint and then drip it onto the joint.
@@ZeusKingOfAllGods Are you referring to globular transfer? Never heard it called drip welding before
You need to learn brother I have build 3 firebird using flux core and everything came out great
Your right 👍.. sheet metal is thin so sometimes you have to wipe it in so you don't burn through the metal...We as master weldors have been around before the biblical Days....We are MASTERS 😊 !
Remember What Jesus said about us in the Bible ; Let your LIGHT so SHINE that Men may see your Good Work and Glorify your Father in Heaven.... Everytime we Strike a ARC and finish a Project,Men Will Be able to see our Good Works as Master Weldors and that's the Truth 😎✌️🔥....
@waynekitchen7134 Amen brother I love metal work my channel is at first generation garage thanks
@@waynekitchen7134 100% True.😅
Looks like a birdshit weld, why don't he just use argon gas with a mig?
I think he has the polarity set for gas mig. It should be the other way around for flux core. But even his solid wire welds look like bird droppings.
true
😂😂😂 looks like my welds when I was learning 😂😂 at 13
Looks like he doesn't own a grinder. A little surface prep would prob work wonders for him .
@@michael2943 also true a grinder is one of my favo tools when i am working
@@tylerwestman5258Yeah, I did my first ever weld about 2 hours ago and I'm doing better work than him.
This is definitely user error I’ve used flux core for this same job and it’s not difficult
1. Adjust your settings correctly
2. Make sure you're using the correct polarity (DCEN) for flux
3. Proper stick out length
4. Drag, don't push
5. Redo the video since you missed steps 1-4 🤣
😂😂😂
This
What is DCEN? It was dc+ and dc- when I was a young guy?
@@RVMD95 Direct Current Electrode Negative/Positive
@@RVMD95 DC electrode negative
flux core is a totally different animal than TIG or MIG. I build custom cars and I have been using flux core for over 20 years. Is it the best way? absolutely not. you just have to learn to do it. if you have a big shop, then you use MIG. you can take flux core anywhere
Thoughts exactly depends on the person's budget. Be nice to have mig but not everyone has money to kill up 200$ gas tanks etc
@@maryfitzgerald6209 you can use flux core without gas my dude and there’s a Hobart (decent lil welder) down here at a shop there’s harbor freight I bought a Vulcan for $1300 and it’s literally performed on par or better than my millers or Lincoln’s it’s always nice to have top of the line I guess if you like showing off your stuff rather than using it and of course someone stuff just performs better but when there’s viable options it’s lazy af to say “I can’t do that” 😅 not hatin just hopefully informing
Its all a question of penetration, you could also use mcaw for massive strenght and full penetration, but in my opinion for car and pipes you use mostly tig welding ...
I'm glad to see this comment. I've never welded before and just picked up a flux core welder. I'm starting with garbage lawnmowers for practice lol
@@thebrodstar just make sure you’re doing it correctly (it is at the same time hard to fck up and so easy to fck up) look up the setting suggestions and start there then find what works best for you. Us the right stuff even harbor crushin sells most fmaw/gmaw hell even mmaw stuff I’m sure there’s more than enough videos to help out on here just try to find the ones with actual welders giving props to the creator. I don’t know all the technical shit I’ve jus theme doing it for 20+years self taught with a lil help here and there from some grumpy old asshole (truly appreciate that dickhead tbh) I just know minimal terminology mine is more that’s there works that there ain’t worth a shit but I love welding to my core. I say all that to say this… you prolly just snagged a new (very expensive) habit 😅🫡
Don’t tell Bondo Billy this!!! He will prove you wrong!
This might be the first Bn do Billy reference I've seen in the wild lol
Bondo billy as he says to people.. is a clown the guy is a fool know it all and no one else is wrong. I hate people like him
Please touch my like thingy!@@infernaldaedra
I wouldn't let him touch any or my classics
@Tairone1337 you tell’em Sonny 😉😉
Change the polarity of your negative lead and gun lead. This way the heat is on the work and not at the tip of the welder.
that guy is a classic know it all, there's lots of videos explaining what you say, but he won't look because he's a know it all.. this guy sucks
So it's better to have + positive earth on the clamp 😊
@@johnmitchell4242not sure about this guys rig, but on mine the manual says to run the + on the clamp when running flux core (gasless) and switch the + to the stinger when using solid wire with gas.
Correct you need to switch your gun from DCEP to DCEN polarity
I think flux core is the least of your worries!
Don't take advice on welding from somebody who doesn't know how to weld.
Well not everyone has the option to spend 6 to $700+ just on a welder I bought the titanium flux 125 welder from harbor freight on sale for $200 and it does a fine job
On sale? They are always $179 here and go on sale at $140 for the titanium flux 125.
Me too.. it's a great welder
You have to switch you internal + - wiring with flux core
Honestly your fcaw welds look better then your mig welds. With .023 wire you should not be built up that much on any pass. Those plug welds are especially concerning.
I also stray away from fcaw for sheet metal because of the amount of heat you dump into the metal. Much more chance to burn through or warp the panel. But it is where I started in sheet metal repair and now I do have the luxury of mig or tig at my disposal.
There is a spray-on product called "Weld-Kleen" that keeps the spatter from sticking. Use it.
i used stick to weld in the entire floor of my valiant ute
Yeah buddy 😃
Stitch welder?
@@psychicspy arc weld
An Aussie has entered the chat 😂🇦🇺
@@TireSlayer55 😂😂 how did you know
Use stainless blue devil flux core. No gass. Make sure your electrode negative and ground positive.
Just started welding in my part time and this has given me a confidence boost 😂
Once you get that flux-cored dialed right it's awesome
I’m trying to learn. I’m trying to fill holes in 20 gauge and it keeps instantly blowing out. I’ve tried adjusting the wire speed and voltage and nothing has stopped it. Any tips
@@jeff666p when welding sheet metal set the amperage to the welders specified setting for that gauge of Steel. You just want to bump the trigger. if you hold the trigger down it will blow through. if you just bump it put a small tack on a small tack on a small tack. Welding sheet metal can be very tedious.🛠
@@eddieabernathy5998please do a video. and who cares if a floor pan patch is ugly anyhow. I want to mess with a beater jeep for fun but don't know how to start. there's 10 billion welders on yt and 11 billion unique expert opinions.
It's been 9 months and I still think about this atlest once a week 😂 can sell tools but not know how to use them yourself
It's a side by side comparison, the entire point is that solid wire is better for this application. He know's how to weld.
@@eastwoodcocome weld my winky back on then.
Drip welding
flux core is great for lazy prep which is a lot of us diy. underseal ? yep itll blast right through, paint ? yep no problem, rust .... yep and many blow throughs hahaha. its good for outdoor purposes and those who like to chase around rust holes
Not only that, but for diy, it is dirt cheap as well. Gas prices are ridiculous!
Haha you say it’s lazy, I just say flux core is more versatile.
I guess I’m considered to be a grand master then 😂😂😂
Flux core wire is made for welding specifically for places, like outside where the wind it won’t interfere with Gas
Never has an issue with flux core on sheet metal or thick metal. Run it dcen at like 80-100 wfs and like 13 volts
Try stitch welding to control heat and doesnt take much weld for a thin piece of metal
Fluid core is fine. Temp down and some homemade anti spatter spray. Sometimes after a good clean and prep, I'll tin it with old school lead.
It's best to round the corners of your patches to reduce instances of cracking and keep the heat low. Keep your ground as close as you can and clean all the paint and rust off before you weld.
Drill holes to the metal near the edge of the replacement overlapping piece, and weld the drilled holes and grind it off afrerwards to have clean looks and is welded, also can apply polyurethane to the crevices to keep moisture and water out, at the end apply coating or rust paint to help resist rust.
Those welds are straight walnuts
I like my flux core welder because I can take it pretty much anywhere and set it up in no time. What I don't like is that fluff it makes that obstructs my view of the weld. I use the gas welder for anything that requires any precision
Weld looks cold he building a caterpillar on thatvfloor maybe a snake
When using fcaw I highly recommend spraying your work area with anti-splatter , the bbs can’t stick and bounce right off the metal , still more cleanup then mig but it’s the trade off for not running/buying argon
Maybe your polarity needs to be reversed.
about 6 months of learning to use a TIG welder and my weld looks like that on the left with same huge beads. I spend more time grinding and wasting filler rods. Now my welds are much smoother and less time grinding.
I think it's the operator my guy... Sorry
Bondo Billy does pretty darn good with his $100 welder check out some pointers from him I enjoy his content and learn a lot.
You can also learn how to tack and weld properly. That help wonders
I've tried both and now i just tig everything whenever practical.
It’s the operator stop lying
Usually a whole form of tool technology isn't the wrong one. It's the user.
Love using flux when I’m outside working on trailers. Nothing wrong with it. Just need to learn it
We think it's great for stuff like that too - sheet metal not quite as much.
@@eastwoodco I agree way to hot with penetration for sheet metal anything usually above 3mm is good to go
I', about to buy a welder for my C10 floor panels. What welder do you recommend I buy?
I’ve just got into welding and using flux core, and even I know with next to no experience that this isn’t the fault of what he’s using, it’s him not knowing what he’s doing!
I welded my diff for a cheap possi-trac over the weekend and me welds didn’t look like that. BUT I also know how to weld and use flux-core wire, it’s not the material or tool, but the user.
This was part of a side-by-side comparison highlighting the benefits of using solid core wire to weld sheet metal vs. flux core.
I like both but gas and solid wire is better for body welding but i just got 2 stuck bolts out with a flux wire by welding a nut on them the trick is to get it on the first shot
With flux core on sheet metal, reverse the polarity from MIG and turn down the voltage.
We are aware...
Looks like u just followed the dumb chart and went to work without practicing on scrap pieces. My welder has a spot timer that works really well for body panels. You're gonna be grinding down your mig welds on panels anyways so why waste the gas?? Flux does just fine once you dial it in.
If you use the correct flux wire that does not happen. There is more to welding then just the machine, knowledge and experience is more valuable than an advertisement. People do your research!!! You don’t need gas for simple metal repairs. And you could be saving yourself a lot of money by doing a little research. Or listening to someone that’s been welding in the industry for a long time.
We did a side by side test - Flux vs solid wire. The solid wire is the better answer for this situation. We love flux for outdoors and remote repairs.
Them tacks look like something my 9 year old daughter did when I first let try to weld😂
Shit I welded on new cab corners on my 08 f150 other day with my easy flux 125 first time welding on a vehicle and didn’t have any issue turned out looking great
Why not use the tig?
The price of gas pushed me into using flux core. A little cleanup time is no big deal. And of course your using gas because Eastwood is footing the bill.
But you still have to grind them weld flush with mig
This is definitely something that depends on the guy doing the welding. Flux core isn’t as nice as gas BUT it looks a lot better than what’s shown here.
Probably didn’t change polarity either.
Would help to know how to weld first. I’ve used both flux core and mig on sheet metal, with absolutely no problem
But if all u have is flux core, you use what u have.
Sure - it will get the job done.
Learn how to weld.
😂 lol.
Try checking your rafters for pigeons
No matter what you do, what process you use, sheet metal on a mass produced car or truck will always be dirty and pop and burn. That’s how it is. It is vital you learn to work with it with what works for you.
i run 15.5 and 80-90 wfs on 16 gauge and flux does fine no blow through
Maybe you need to change polarity on your welder to work with flux wire better
You are welding too cold. Flux core is perfectly fine for little things like this. Definitely the operator, not the method of welding. Learn, then make an educated video.
RELAX
Clean up is clean up. Flux core works just fine.
What’s the best type of welder to rent for welding two replacement rocker panels?
Some of us dont have the luxury of using gas.
How about changing voltage? I’ve welded thin metal and have been just fine
Is not the tool, is the person behind the tool.
As Mexicans we have these saying and boy is true AF!!!!
I totally agree with one of the comments that it's not the wire are the machine it's the operator I could say this because I've been doing body works since the 1970s professionally practice makes perfect
Skill issue
Or, just tell them both to get lost and use TIG?
As a FCAW guy myself, I totally understand the sentiment about it. It's a little wild. Using the anti-spatter spray helps, though.
I can't comment on MIG but I have a buddy at work who says it's like a 180 compared to FCAW.
But everything I've read, watched, and thought about, TIG is BY FAR the way to go with almost anything, especially thin stuff.
Thoughts?
TIG is ok but tends to warp thin sheet metal more than MIG plus has a lower tolerance for contamination often found when doing floorboards even after they’ve been scrupulously cleaned. I like to save money by making my pieces out of old hoods, doors etc so MIG is the way to go when doing that. Plus it’s a quicker process.
FCAW is great for welding rusty stuff together outside in a field.
C'mon, now... FCAW has much more worth. Some of the industry's experts use it within industrial apps with welds that can often be just as strong as those you'd expect from stick jobs. As really, if your TIG (or any) weld warps, it's not being welded correctly using appropriate settings, which isn't reflective of the weld type but rather, the welder.
@@22_floW Have any advice for new DIY welders? I have a precious vehicle that means a lot but there’s some spots here and there. Shops either charge out of my budget or won’t do it.
@BriizCustoms , a "precious vehicle" isn't the kind of project I'd advise getting better at welding or fabrication with, but I guess that just depends on you and the level of sentimental value you're willing to be risky with (to say nothing about the specifics involved in your project). Honestly, you might either be better off continuing your search for a qualified shop who might be able to do whatever work you're needing done at a better cost, or, just suck up the expense you've been quoted if it means having it done by a seasoned professional that's credentialed and certified in the work you're wanting done. Without knowing what work you're working on, it's difficult to say what I think the best approach would be for you. Also understand that I'm not a seasoned pro, myself--I'm just a guy who has welded a few things in his garage. Ha. But I do have experience searching for shops that do the kind of work I think you're beginning to wade into, and from my experiences, what I think you're looking for is a custom fabrication and welding shop who specializes in vehicle restoration. Sound about right? If so, you'll be more likely to have better search results if you look for a shop who specializes in vehicle restorations and who doesn't shy away from rust repair. (From my experiences, if a shop states up front that they do rust repair, that's usually a good sign in terms of being a shop who knows what they're doing whenever it comes to things like fabrication and welding.) You're unlikely to find something like that in a small town or small city, so if you're having problems finding a shop that does that, consider widening your search radius to include a major city. Chances are, you'll have better luck. You might still be quoted a high cost, but it could be worth it. Again, it just depends on what you're wanting to do.
If you're wanting to dive into things like body repair (meaning, body panels, patches, dings and dent repair, minor rust repair, and other somewhat minor things), you'll want to be sure you have a good welder that can handle really thin / fine gauges of sheet metal. If it can do aluminum work, too, all the better. Because of those things, I always view TIG welders as being the best possible machines to do this kind of work, but I know you can do good work with a decent MIG machine, too. I believe C25 is good gas to use for either. FCAW can do *some* work like this, but it just depends on specifics. I wouldn't advise FCAW for thin stuff, and even for the thicker stuff it's better with, it will be much more messy. In all cases, be sure you have a good angle grinder with plenty of cut-off wheels (with thin kerfs, too; I'd advise buying some of the Diablo-brand wheels for that). Have plenty of sanding wheels, a few hammers (i.e. - a planishing hammer is great for this kind of work). Pros use things like brakes, shrinkers, and stretchers for complex shaping, so if you have any of those, awesome, but many DIYers do a lot with just the planishing hammer and smart welds--look up Fitze's Fabrication on UA-cam to see what I'm talking about as he's an artist whenever it comes to making a lot with so little. Anti-spatter spray helps a lot with keeping welds clean and having some tip gel will help keep your tips clean for FCAW and MIG. If doing TIG, be sure to have a CK Worldwide superflex torch. A good welding helmet with auto-darkening goes a long way. Adding to all of this, be sure to perform exhaustive research into whatever it is you're going to be working on. Try to get any available service procedures that the manufacturer or aftermarket providers might have as valuable info can be acquired from them to understand the parts you'll need, how they're installed, etc. Join some online communities to pick more brains about your project (i.e. - Reddit > r/fabrication is a great group) and be sure to include pictures, etc. of everything you'll be doing and working with when communicating with your communities (including your machines and tools). They'll have insights about approaches and parts. Speaking of parts, be sure to bookmark McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Get as much info about your vehicle and the kind of panels, structures, sub-structure, etc. it uses, and before doing the work, be sure to not only have as many parts as possible that you'll need for the job, but also backups for those as mistakes will be made before success.
And whatever you do, be sure to exploit this opportunity to apply some rust preventative or neutralizer while the panels, etc. are exposed. I'd advise a product called "Corroseal," which is similar to Por-15, and Wool-Wax, which displaces water (look up RepairGeek on UA-cam). If you use this in tandem to areas you plan on welding, be very careful as many undercoating products are flammable. (So for those areas, use an anti-rust product intended to be welded that isn't flammable. Might go without saying, but many people--especially DIYers--often never consider it.)
If you're doing anything beyond basic panel work, like more serious stuff related to the frame or even sub-frame, I'd personally advise against tackling it on your own without a seasoned vet being involved (and by "seasoned vet," I'm not talking about a friend or father figure who's worked as a mechanic for 30 years--I'm talking about a credentialed, certified fabricator whose career has comprised of nothing but this kind of work). It's too dangerous to do alone and is often something only specialized shops do. For that kind of work, I can only advise that you just bite whatever quote bullets you're given as long as they're given by said qualified shops, and be sure the work comes with liability assurances because if it doesn't, it means that shop can't do the work to a quality that they're willing to risk their company's name (and financial stability) on.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Honestly if it's just a mess, I'll do that, the gas and bottles are expensive. I'll be fine with flux, plus you can weld outside in the wind
The best welder i know uses flux core on
Nah, the problem is the welder... but I'm not talking about the machine itself.
Yeah what you need isn't gas or Flux core, it's practice.
I can't afford the gas. I learned on flux core with an Eastwood 210 welder that came with flux core wire. Practiced on some scrap metal and got it dialed in just right.
I love the comments. I don't know shite about welding and I saw right away that he played for the Cubs.
If you're welding with gas you don't use flux core wire since flux core is your protection. Gas on might wire is your protection
For sheet metal you should be spot welding.
now that I have seen your welds, your getting a grinder for Christmas lol.
Hey question man what’s preventing him from frying electronics connected to the frame? Need some help myself
@@Jadanti6 disconnect the battery
That reminds me. I’m almost out of chewing gum. Thanks!
Are we welding to a painted floor? Or is that weld through?
Did you swap the cables so the earth is the positive? Im only a farm-grade metal-sticker and master-grinder, but I've never really had the problems you've mentioned. I think something else might be causing you the problems, not the gasless wire.
Yes we swapped polarity - it's a side by side test showing solid vs flux core wire. It's part of a larger video. It has bad results because this isn't the preferred method.
Flux core can work awesome ! Never have had any issues !! I mean gas is better but flux is great also
That's all we're saying.
Doesn't look like you have cleaned anything before welding!
I’ve spent a couple hours messing with flux core, that’s actually my only welding experience. At first my welds looked like his and worse but after a couple hours of burning through your piece and making the biggest globbiest, most porous welds ever seen. You start getting the hang of it. You have to change your angle and distance depending on the material you weld, the location of your weld (underneath something/side/on top) and even the temperature of the metal. I started when it was 40° outside and when summer came around my decent welds started looking like shit
Flux core works a helluva lot better when you're welding rusty/dirty metal such as the floorboard of a car.
flapper disk fixes all them bugger welds
Bondo Billy zweert erbij, Billy knows best🤣
Sorry guy but it looks like operator error on both sides. Gas and solid wire is certainly cleaner but there’s no reason why you can’t get decent welds with flux core especially in windy conditions.
Need more stickout probably, on flux core machine amps probably don't go low enough probably cheap machine.
Some people (like me) do not have the money and tank to go fill up every time. And plus, you’re at a shop and everything is provided.
Bondobilly prefers flux cored for body panel repairs!
My friend once attached patches to my old car with acetylene 😅
Operator error.
Mebbe forgot to switch the leads?
I can make fluxcore and stick look nicer than tig welds practice more dude
Not the process, but for sure the operator.
Is that welding?
What made you wanna flux this bro? Should’ve used mig or tig
It's part of a side-by-side video showing MIG vs Flux Core. We also like MIG better for sheet metal.