Hey everyone- lots of folks asking why I didn’t do the bore on the mill. This is such a common question on every project, that it is in my FAQ. See link in description. The TL;DR is that boring heads suck if you don’t have power down feed. If you were about to ask that, now you can ask something more constructive instead! Win win! Meanwhile, to everyone concerned about the bolt holes being crooked after the correction, they are clearance holes less than an 1/8” long. Trust me, it’s all gonna be fine 🤗. As for why I didn’t use the ends in the vise for fixing the bottom, both ends *should* be pretty square, but only one definitely is and it’s always better to directly reference the critical surface when correcting a relationship. Using the bore ends is an assumption and a compromise. And yes, the mandrel was long enough. 5C collets are single cut and only clamp at the very end. That had nothing to do with the mandrel moving.
Asked it a few hours ago, now I want to delete it... I didn't notice you didn't have a powered mill quill, and I TOTALLY see how that would really give substandard results if it wasn't mechanically fed... Almost like trying to do single point threading without gears, by turning the handwheel...
Ahhh totally makes sense. I am using a Bridgeport mill with down feed and a mill without it would be a nightmare unless you had one of those expensive boring heads with autofeed mechanism. Thanks for the comment despite my laziness not looking deeper for the AsknAnswered part of your channel.
As a side note I had predicted you were going to setup like you did with the file machine on the lathe crossslide and line bore it. I was so sure you were going to do that, I thought you purposely used the 4 jaw just for teaching. LOL
I am glad in my own hobby machining world, I spotted the foot to bore mistake as it was happening. The thing that draws me back to this channel is the mistakes and how you teach us how to deal with them. Awesome content as usual Quinn, one of the best channels on YT.
Hi Quinn, Nice Job on the Casting. It was really interesting seeing how you went about correcting the problem. Thanks for explaining everything so well.😁👍👍
As an Engineer there is a huge temptation to offer advice and point out where you have gone wrong, but then I realised I would be just like every other Armchair Expert, instead I will stay silent and trust that you are learning as much from your mistakes as I am, keep up the great channel 🙂
I have less engineering education, haven’t ever used a mill or metal lathe, and STILL struggle to STFU. I know all of the “helpful” comments from armchair machinists would wear me down. I think this is part of my learning process - to connect problems with techniques & solutions, then test them against reality (or more knowledgeable people). That feedback illuminates areas I was missing or reveals things I’ve misunderstood. I would also like to be able to build projects like these, and “helping” is easier and cheaper than doing. Thanks for YOUR comment because it pushed me to understand why I feel compelled to add my $0.02 (if that) worth on machining videos!
Regarding chatter on light cuts with carbide, I think it was Stephane Goetteswinter who said that this is due to the edge radius that inserts are made with to prolong their life. He has shown lapping that radius down to a super sharp edge allows the insert to take a thin cut at the expense of tool life. I haven’t tried it so if it doesn’t work blame him!
Once you have the bolt holes and need to do the layout (~9 mins!), if you have 2 gauge pins of the size, you can use them as references against the angle plate top (by pushing them through, then resting against the angle plate top), rather than trying to use the height gauge. I found on a few projects it gets you REALLY close as long as you have the right size gauge pins and a reference surface on the top of your angle plates. Side note, I'm envious of the patience you have on your initial setup! I typically just use an adjustable parallel and eyeball it off the vise jaw!
Did you have the one that rides on the side of the tire, or within the front hub? Lots of bikes are rolling on front hub dynamos these days, I have one on my commuter rig! Nice to not have to worry about charging my lights
Of course with an incandescents bulb as the light you would probably notice the extra resistance to your pedalling (and woe betide you if you want lights while riding up a hill).
Quinn - lots of intricacy with the setup on this part. I love your explanations of when further attempts at corrections may give worse-than-expected results.
As I was watching this I realised how much I appreciate your commentary, both the style and the content. Just felt you ought to know so that you didn't feel the need to go changing it. Love your work, both entertaining and informative.
Just goes to show you, go with your first hunch or something you know is correct, don't be lazy. It always bites you in the backside.(don't ask me how I know that!) Nevertheless as always, you managed to save the workpiece by thinking it through and figuring out what went wrong. I think what I like the most about your channel is you show these errors and how you fix them. For the beginner, less experienced hobbyist that can be so helpful. Heck for those of us that have been doing this for years, day in day out serves as a reminder to not cut corners. Cheers!
As I was watching the 4 jaw setup, I kept thinking to myself, well, self, Quinn knows so much more about machining and precision than you do (as you are a woodworker), she must be doing the right thing. An excellent lesson in recovering from a booboo. Now I will go forth and attempt to cut my dovetails in such a way that they don't break off all of the pins again. 🙂 As usual, I love the "shut up, that's why," and cackled like a fool when you said it.
I think I need to make a great big sign to sit behind my machines saying "DON'T CHASE PERFECT WHEN ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!" I scrap so much stock that way...
Oh cool! I just finished making one of these. There are a couple of UA-cam series on it but they all skip the interesting details of the terminal posts and the lifting eye. Also the end bells are clearly designed to be made on a four jaw chuck. I did the body casting on the mill with a boring head. That was very quick and easy to setup. I like the way you used your holes for reference. That’s an excellent trick.
Two things. - You stress the importance of double checking your setup to catch problems early on, but you seem to be undervaluing the utility of just pressing on and then cursing and screaming when you find the error upon completion. - Is "just a skooch" a metric or imperial measurement? :-) have been loving this series
Great video as always. Well shot and the narration is just perfect. There's a fairly simple solution to guarantee absolute squareness of the casting when facing the backside to length. Turn a sacrificial mandrel of aluminium between centres, match casting ID, hold casting on mandrel with half a drop of superglue. If you don't want to use superglue, if it's a repair of an already painted part for example, then split the middle third of the mandrel lengthwise with a hacksaw, drill and tap for a set screw to essentially pry the halves apart ever so slightly. This method does however not guarantee perfect co-centricity. The setup, if made correctly, allows for perfect squareness as well as ease of measuring length with a micrometer.
To be honest I don't know why you were worried about the 20 thou. Unless the thing you're mounting this little gen to is perfectly flat and parallel to the run of the drive, you're going to have to shim it anyway. Ir if you have adjustable stand-offs. Belts and chains have some give in run on top of that. You might be surprised just how far off you can be and not trow a belt.
Alright Quinn, I have to fess up. I didn't want to watch this vid because I wanted the switcher. Reluctantly I turned on, only to find it was absolutely fascinating. Sorry to doubt you (I'll go and put my hair shirt on as penance).
I'm enjoying this build, it's reminding me of the days of leveling and aligning very large motors and pump shafts, always remember that shim stock is your best friend when reaching goals. Love your videos and have learned many tricks of the trade from you, thank you.❤
If you use pins or a stack of blocks to orient the casting in the vise (1st operation) you could make sure the thickness of the resulting base is visually the same on the finished casting on both ends. Also, if you don't have a long end mill for the spot face (2nd op) you could try a cheap drill bit with the point ground flat. I have this kit, but I haven't built it yet, so going to school with your build and an old build from Mr. Pete is instructive. Thanks
I know setup is frustrating and tedious, but I’ve always admired your results. 🤓 This is most apparent to me in the disgusted faces I pull when watching the work of others… Perfection is eternally elusive, but I admire your determination to recheck time and again where others would accept far poorer results. Bravo!
The ability to quit when achieving good enough was most impressive to us obsessive compulsive persons. That takes both wisdom and commitment. It can be difficult to accept less than perfect. Sigh. Not than I am saying Q is OCD, just speaking generally. Fun project. Cheers.
You did a great job, as always. Out of curiosity, would it have saved you setup time if you machined a little bit of the ends of the bore flat and parallel after marking them on the mill? I'm thinking you could maybe use the reference face of the machined foot to make perpendicular and parallel faces on the mill with enough material left over to then take it to the lathe. That way, you could use those milled surfaces to dial the part in and then finish the machining of those faces on the lathe to ensure concentricity with the bore. Just a thought, but idk if it would've saved you any time. I was just thinking it may have been easier, even if it could also seem a bit silly to cut the same surfaces twice on two different machines
I made one of these kits several years ago and it was a fun build. Since it is a generator, you can also turn it into a motor by putting DC current across the terminals. I have mine hooked up to a PM Machine steam engine and it runs a few LED lamps.
Kind of remember Lyle Peterson making one of these a few years back and looked it up. Low and behold, there it was. - Check it out. - Not that you are not doing a top line tool maker job of it, but Mr Pete got it done a lot easier,,,,Yo, ,It's a friggin model motor/generator, Not a precision chronometer,,,,,,,still you are doing an outstanding job,,,,,and giving the customer way, WAY more then they expected.
When you were trying the 4 jaw chuck, I guess you didn't hear me shouting to you to use the surface plate. Just the constant Back and forth getting plane (a) perfect to throw it off while getting plane (b) aligned was enough for me to use the angle plate. Great job getting it done! RecognizingTHAT problem with your process of frequent checking in itself shows why measuring often is so important. Great Job cant wait to see you use it!
For some unfathomable reason I envisioned a wizard with a can of dykem in one hand and a suspiciously pointy wand in the other shouting *"I CAST LAYOUT!"* because that's how my weird ball of bacon works.
Watching this on Thanksgiving evening. . I have never seen your channel and I have no idea what you are making but it sure is interesting. I bet men are way more impressed with your abilities than your average woman. Just saying i'm impressed.
I've always been fascinated by home-brew power generation. I've seen some very interesting projects with powerful neodymium magnets. If you have a little creek on your property and the laws allow it, building a little dam and creating about 3' of fall for the water will give an impressive amount of power running through a hydro-power setup.
What’s up with the tool you’re using to face off at around 15:00? I always have trouble with the tool and approach angle for facing off and this is new to me.
You have the two faces for the bore. Are they not square to the bore? so you could put them in the mill vise and re-cut the foot. ETA... you have made me think do the bore first.
Had the exact same thought, back jaw of the mill vise is square, just need to level the foot side-to-side, done. Nice and solid set-up, and simple to do, making use of the surfaces that are already square to the bore.
I feel like whenever the Walking Dead thing happens, it's not gonna be Ron Swanson, It's gonna be Quinn with the modern amenities like electricity and running water and a functioning workshop.
I understand that one of the criteria of your channel is doing things with commonly available hobby shop machine tools but I tell you adding a small surface grinder to your arsenal would up your game significantly
Excellent presentation. Thank you. A really amazing job and explanation on getting the bore square with the base. Incredible stuff and I really learned a lot. That kit from PM can be bought raw ($59) or fully machined ($109). Would be a lot of fun for you to buy both kits and then compare your machined unit to theirs. I see a lot of their kits come both ways. That said - I wonder how the hourly rate works out when the fully machine kit is only $50 more not to mention the cost of the tools and machines needed.
Thank You! i hawe a turbine/generator kit from Cringle engineering (those kits where really awesome, but i don't know if he make them anymore, i am so glad i got one! The design it just outstanding compared to those Chinese barstock things) i really want to give a try on my "new" late whan it is installed!
Quinn you probably know that Mr. Pete built this dynamo kit some time back. I really enjoyed seeing the differences between your approach to the work and his. Lots of similarities too. I know the end product will be the same (i.e. awesome). Thanks for the video. PS - sorry about the Flames not being fabulous this year. But hey! At least the Edmonton Oilers still suck. 🤣
Ah, yes... tho a DC generator is the same as a DC motor as far as I know, they have the same physical components and structure, the only real difference is how you use it. But, since the title does say dc gen... I guess I really should say, can't wait to see this generator working.
I think it's time some machine company makes a hobby size horizontal boring mill! And don't I recall being instructed on how to set up the compound to make very small cuts? Where did I see that video?
Don't quote on this but I think it's 11 degrees. 10:1. Each thousandth on the compound makes the tool advance .0001 to the spindle. - Easy to find with the SOH CAH TOA stuff. (I'm just too lazy to dig out the trig tables or go get the TI-11)
I have a cygnet 3 cylinder radial steam engine with all the cylinders and pistons cast together, I was wondering if I should just hacksaw them apart or turn them in place. Thanks for your videos.
What would the cons of using a boring bar be? Also, what about using a boring head in the lathe spindle + and power feed of the saddle mounted casting? (I haven't tried either of them myself, so just questions!)
Firstly, thank you for your videos.... i love them. Your fix for the casting base was incredibly cool. I'm only just really getting into hobby engineering, and I find the fix for error, particularly interesting!..... errr maybe coz I'm still making quite a few of them idk :)
Very often things don't go to plan and the ability to think and correct for what went wrong is invaluable as you continually show in your videos. Could the housing have been secured a bit tighter on the mandrel by stacking 2 or 3 fender washers (to make the clamping effect less springy) to retain the housing on the mandrel?
Given the angle-block setup for the casting layout, I presume that there was some limitation which prevented using that setup on the mill (with a boring head)? It seems like a semi-finished bore and a mandrel (perhaps an expanding mandrel to minimise sacrificial material) would have made the lathe setup so much more straightforward to tie in to your existing reference features.
Im sure 2 1/2 thou error is not going to matter. The spigot of the mandrel in the 5C collet should be as long as possible, but I think I would have mounted in a vertically mounted rotary table with a chuck and rotated to dial the base surface in, but then I have that tooling available and a bigger mill that it easily fits on.
I'm doing the PM Research 2A and I had a similar problem with the cylinder. I planned to face the port face and drill the pivot hole in one setup. After the facing operation I measured the bore and the difference from one end to the other was nine thousandths. It's a good thing it wasn't over nine thousandths or I would've had to call my local Saiyan for help. I put the cylinder back in the chuck and tapped it in for 0.009" difference on the back. Then I faced it again. That worked well except now my pivot hole is slightly off center. That does not rock. Is there a reason you didn't choose the 2A for a project? I don't see a lot of people doing them.
Hi Blondie, thank you for another top video. I was also wondering if you could tell me the type of tool holder you used for facing the mold body please? Thank you in advance for your time and assistance. 👍🇦🇺
You could User feeler gauge tape (dont really know if you call it like that) under the upper Part so if you tap tap the other angle it doest go back down ( i Mean the last correction operation) but at all nice work done
Lots of lessons learned in this video for sure:) You could have, once you taped the part parallel on the mandrel, then reset the square collet holder in the vice.
I think I'll use that from now on... "Why didn't you prepare that report for Thursday's meeting?" "Because shut up that's why." "How come you're not going to work today?" "Because shut up that's why." 😆
Quinn, have you ever considered making a small honing fixture so you could take 1/1000ths and such after boring, Something I’m contemplating on adding to my projects list.
Hey everyone- lots of folks asking why I didn’t do the bore on the mill. This is such a common question on every project, that it is in my FAQ. See link in description. The TL;DR is that boring heads suck if you don’t have power down feed. If you were about to ask that, now you can ask something more constructive instead! Win win! Meanwhile, to everyone concerned about the bolt holes being crooked after the correction, they are clearance holes less than an 1/8” long. Trust me, it’s all gonna be fine 🤗. As for why I didn’t use the ends in the vise for fixing the bottom, both ends *should* be pretty square, but only one definitely is and it’s always better to directly reference the critical surface when correcting a relationship. Using the bore ends is an assumption and a compromise. And yes, the mandrel was long enough. 5C collets are single cut and only clamp at the very end. That had nothing to do with the mandrel moving.
The tappy-tap-tappiest of episodes, without once using the phrase??
Asked it a few hours ago, now I want to delete it...
I didn't notice you didn't have a powered mill quill, and I TOTALLY see how that would really give substandard results if it wasn't mechanically fed...
Almost like trying to do single point threading without gears, by turning the handwheel...
I feel like you chose to pass on making a collet joke at the end. Thank you for reducing our punishment for questioning the order of operations.
Ahhh totally makes sense. I am using a Bridgeport mill with down feed and a mill without it would be a nightmare unless you had one of those expensive boring heads with autofeed mechanism. Thanks for the comment despite my laziness not looking deeper for the AsknAnswered part of your channel.
As a side note I had predicted you were going to setup like you did with the file machine on the lathe crossslide and line bore it. I was so sure you were going to do that, I thought you purposely used the 4 jaw just for teaching. LOL
One nice side-effect of watching so many episodes is recognizing where various pieces of scrap came from. 😊
I’ve always found the key not being remembering where a scrap came from but remembering where you put it
Thanks for the laugh. I have bin there and done that.
Easily the best "because shut up that's why" this year. The timing and delivery were perfect. Bravo.
I am glad in my own hobby machining world, I spotted the foot to bore mistake as it was happening. The thing that draws me back to this channel is the mistakes and how you teach us how to deal with them. Awesome content as usual Quinn, one of the best channels on YT.
Hi Quinn, Nice Job on the Casting. It was really interesting seeing how you went about correcting the problem. Thanks for explaining everything so well.😁👍👍
As an Engineer there is a huge temptation to offer advice and point out where you have gone wrong, but then I realised I would be just like every other Armchair Expert, instead I will stay silent and trust that you are learning as much from your mistakes as I am, keep up the great channel 🙂
I have less engineering education, haven’t ever used a mill or metal lathe, and STILL struggle to STFU. I know all of the “helpful” comments from armchair machinists would wear me down.
I think this is part of my learning process - to connect problems with techniques & solutions, then test them against reality (or more knowledgeable people). That feedback illuminates areas I was missing or reveals things I’ve misunderstood. I would also like to be able to build projects like these, and “helping” is easier and cheaper than doing.
Thanks for YOUR comment because it pushed me to understand why I feel compelled to add my $0.02 (if that) worth on machining videos!
Regarding chatter on light cuts with carbide, I think it was Stephane Goetteswinter who said that this is due to the edge radius that inserts are made with to prolong their life. He has shown lapping that radius down to a super sharp edge allows the insert to take a thin cut at the expense of tool life. I haven’t tried it so if it doesn’t work blame him!
I am very bad at crafting, especially making near perfect products. These videos fills my heart with joy. Thank you for your video
I'm sure everyone has told you, but your material is a great resource. Thank you!
Once you have the bolt holes and need to do the layout (~9 mins!), if you have 2 gauge pins of the size, you can use them as references against the angle plate top (by pushing them through, then resting against the angle plate top), rather than trying to use the height gauge. I found on a few projects it gets you REALLY close as long as you have the right size gauge pins and a reference surface on the top of your angle plates.
Side note, I'm envious of the patience you have on your initial setup! I typically just use an adjustable parallel and eyeball it off the vise jaw!
I was thinking this, plus could you then fly cut the top face to be square to the bolt holes and the foot for easier clamping in the lathe?
@@zacharykarr yeah, you'd need pins that were the size of the hole or smaller, as long as they are the same size.
Heh heh heh! Nice touch with the scratch lines moving slowly across the screen starting at 23:10!
Know when to call it and know when to collet. Both important skills for machinists I imagine.
13:40 Way back in 1980 I was actually taught "visual averaging" on a signal processing course, a module on my Electronics degree.
Thanks for addressing the question in my mind about referencing to the bore in the casting.
My old bicycles had these dc dynamos for headlamps, good to see people still fancy them :)
Did you have the one that rides on the side of the tire, or within the front hub? Lots of bikes are rolling on front hub dynamos these days, I have one on my commuter rig! Nice to not have to worry about charging my lights
@@cyrucom I had ones that ride on the side of the tires, pretty compact and I think they put out 6v or 9v depending on the model.
Of course with an incandescents bulb as the light you would probably notice the extra resistance to your pedalling (and woe betide you if you want lights while riding up a hill).
@@nerd1000ify haha yes, that definitely sucked.
Quinn - lots of intricacy with the setup on this part. I love your explanations of when further attempts at corrections may give worse-than-expected results.
As I was watching this I realised how much I appreciate your commentary, both the style and the content. Just felt you ought to know so that you didn't feel the need to go changing it. Love your work, both entertaining and informative.
Thanks for the variety. I look forward to your show every Saturday morning while having my coffee.
Mike
Just goes to show you, go with your first hunch or something you know is correct, don't be lazy. It always bites you in the backside.(don't ask me how I know that!) Nevertheless as always, you managed to save the workpiece by thinking it through and figuring out what went wrong. I think what I like the most about your channel is you show these errors and how you fix them. For the beginner, less experienced hobbyist that can be so helpful. Heck for those of us that have been doing this for years, day in day out serves as a reminder to not cut corners. Cheers!
As I was watching the 4 jaw setup, I kept thinking to myself, well, self, Quinn knows so much more about machining and precision than you do (as you are a woodworker), she must be doing the right thing. An excellent lesson in recovering from a booboo. Now I will go forth and attempt to cut my dovetails in such a way that they don't break off all of the pins again. 🙂 As usual, I love the "shut up, that's why," and cackled like a fool when you said it.
"It's nice to get lucky once in a while" thanks Quinn made me smile
Looks like a fun little project
I think I need to make a great big sign to sit behind my machines saying "DON'T CHASE PERFECT WHEN ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!"
I scrap so much stock that way...
Oh cool! I just finished making one of these. There are a couple of UA-cam series on it but they all skip the interesting details of the terminal posts and the lifting eye. Also the end bells are clearly designed to be made on a four jaw chuck.
I did the body casting on the mill with a boring head. That was very quick and easy to setup.
I like the way you used your holes for reference. That’s an excellent trick.
@32:57 "So you kinda have to know when to collet" LOL I see what you did there! 👍
I built one of these several years ago. Works extremely well. Highly recommend.
Excellent discussion of the compromises one has to make with castings Quinn.
Two things.
- You stress the importance of double checking your setup to catch problems early on, but you seem to be undervaluing the utility of just pressing on and then cursing and screaming when you find the error upon completion.
- Is "just a skooch" a metric or imperial measurement?
:-) have been loving this series
Great video as always. Well shot and the narration is just perfect.
There's a fairly simple solution to guarantee absolute squareness of the casting when facing the backside to length. Turn a sacrificial mandrel of aluminium between centres, match casting ID, hold casting on mandrel with half a drop of superglue.
If you don't want to use superglue, if it's a repair of an already painted part for example, then split the middle third of the mandrel lengthwise with a hacksaw, drill and tap for a set screw to essentially pry the halves apart ever so slightly. This method does however not guarantee perfect co-centricity.
The setup, if made correctly, allows for perfect squareness as well as ease of measuring length with a micrometer.
To be honest I don't know why you were worried about the 20 thou. Unless the thing you're mounting this little gen to is perfectly flat and parallel to the run of the drive, you're going to have to shim it anyway. Ir if you have adjustable stand-offs. Belts and chains have some give in run on top of that. You might be surprised just how far off you can be and not trow a belt.
Alright Quinn, I have to fess up. I didn't want to watch this vid because I wanted the switcher.
Reluctantly I turned on, only to find it was absolutely fascinating.
Sorry to doubt you (I'll go and put my hair shirt on as penance).
I'm enjoying this build, it's reminding me of the days of leveling and aligning very large motors and pump shafts, always remember that shim stock is your best friend when reaching goals.
Love your videos and have learned many tricks of the trade from you, thank you.❤
If you use pins or a stack of blocks to orient the casting in the vise (1st operation) you could make sure the thickness of the resulting base is visually the same on the finished casting on both ends.
Also, if you don't have a long end mill for the spot face (2nd op) you could try a cheap drill bit with the point ground flat.
I have this kit, but I haven't built it yet, so going to school with your build and an old build from Mr. Pete is instructive. Thanks
I know setup is frustrating and tedious, but I’ve always admired your results. 🤓
This is most apparent to me in the disgusted faces I pull when watching the work of others…
Perfection is eternally elusive, but I admire your determination to recheck time and again where others would accept far poorer results. Bravo!
The ability to quit when achieving good enough was most impressive to us obsessive compulsive persons. That takes both wisdom and commitment. It can be difficult to accept less than perfect. Sigh. Not than I am saying Q is OCD, just speaking generally. Fun project. Cheers.
You did a great job, as always. Out of curiosity, would it have saved you setup time if you machined a little bit of the ends of the bore flat and parallel after marking them on the mill? I'm thinking you could maybe use the reference face of the machined foot to make perpendicular and parallel faces on the mill with enough material left over to then take it to the lathe. That way, you could use those milled surfaces to dial the part in and then finish the machining of those faces on the lathe to ensure concentricity with the bore. Just a thought, but idk if it would've saved you any time. I was just thinking it may have been easier, even if it could also seem a bit silly to cut the same surfaces twice on two different machines
I have this kit. Suddenly realize it’s not going to be as easy I thought. Thanks for the path finding for me.
I made one of these kits several years ago and it was a fun build. Since it is a generator, you can also turn it into a motor by putting DC current across the terminals. I have mine hooked up to a PM Machine steam engine and it runs a few LED lamps.
Excellent work, it's nice to see that your tolerance for errors when machining castings is much tighter than mine. Maybe I should up my game a bit?
Kind of remember Lyle Peterson making one of these a few years back and looked it up. Low and behold, there it was. - Check it out. - Not that you are not doing a top line tool maker job of it, but Mr Pete got it done a lot easier,,,,Yo, ,It's a friggin model motor/generator, Not a precision chronometer,,,,,,,still you are doing an outstanding job,,,,,and giving the customer way, WAY more then they expected.
ARGH I am not going to be able to sleep tonight! Good lesson to learn about remember that tapping may affect the part in multiple directions...
That was some clever trouble shooting. I will be back for part 2. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
When you were trying the 4 jaw chuck, I guess you didn't hear me shouting to you to use the surface plate. Just the constant Back and forth getting plane (a) perfect to throw it off while getting plane (b) aligned was enough for me to use the angle plate. Great job getting it done! RecognizingTHAT problem with your process of frequent checking in itself shows why measuring often is so important.
Great Job cant wait to see you use it!
I would have started with the with a different reference surface. Can you go more in detail about how to chose a starting reference for a casting?
For some unfathomable reason I envisioned a wizard with a can of dykem in one hand and a suspiciously pointy wand in the other shouting *"I CAST LAYOUT!"* because that's how my weird ball of bacon works.
Watching this on Thanksgiving evening. . I have never seen your channel and I have no idea what you are making but it sure is interesting. I bet men are way more impressed with your abilities than your average woman. Just saying i'm impressed.
Yay! It's Blondihacks time!!!
I've wanted to built one of these for a long time now. Great to see you doing this video series!
Nice small 'beginners' project Quinn, looking forward to the rest of it.
I've always been fascinated by home-brew power generation. I've seen some very interesting projects with powerful neodymium magnets. If you have a little creek on your property and the laws allow it, building a little dam and creating about 3' of fall for the water will give an impressive amount of power running through a hydro-power setup.
I can google it but thats boring and anti social :). Is that ' a feet indicator? So 3' is 3 feet approx 0.9 meters?
@hajom78 yes, that's right approximately. 1 meter is about 8cm longer than 3 feet.
@@jfirebaugh I have a creek at home, now I got curious and think I need to try this. I should be able to get 1-2 meters drop here.
You don't need fancy magnets, almost any motor can be modified into a generator... old washing machine, car starter motor, garage door opener...
@@Tasarran Yea, just need to find an old motor. The last one I pulled from a washing machine was a brushless history, and probably not usable.
I'm waiting for the next one with great impatience !
What’s up with the tool you’re using to face off at around 15:00? I always have trouble with the tool and approach angle for facing off and this is new to me.
"...you kind of have to know when to collet..." [32: 58] I see what you did there. 😆
You have the two faces for the bore. Are they not square to the bore?
so you could put them in the mill vise and re-cut the foot.
ETA... you have made me think do the bore first.
Had the exact same thought, back jaw of the mill vise is square, just need to level the foot side-to-side, done. Nice and solid set-up, and simple to do, making use of the surfaces that are already square to the bore.
My thought also
I feel like whenever the Walking Dead thing happens, it's not gonna be Ron Swanson, It's gonna be Quinn with the modern amenities like electricity and running water and a functioning workshop.
They used to use white or pink Dykem on castings where I worked that used to do big castings, showed up better than black or blue.
I understand that one of the criteria of your channel is doing things with commonly available hobby shop machine tools but I tell you adding a small surface grinder to your arsenal would up your game significantly
Excellent presentation. Thank you. A really amazing job and explanation on getting the bore square with the base. Incredible stuff and I really learned a lot. That kit from PM can be bought raw ($59) or fully machined ($109). Would be a lot of fun for you to buy both kits and then compare your machined unit to theirs. I see a lot of their kits come both ways. That said - I wonder how the hourly rate works out when the fully machine kit is only $50 more not to mention the cost of the tools and machines needed.
Thank You! i hawe a turbine/generator kit from Cringle engineering (those kits where really awesome, but i don't know if he make them anymore, i am so glad i got one! The design it just outstanding compared to those Chinese barstock things) i really want to give a try on my "new" late whan it is installed!
Having worked on a few old machines, the casting and the machining often don't line up anyway. But I get how making it look good feels good.
Quinn you probably know that Mr. Pete built this dynamo kit some time back. I really enjoyed seeing the differences between your approach to the work and his. Lots of similarities too. I know the end product will be the same (i.e. awesome). Thanks for the video. PS - sorry about the Flames not being fabulous this year. But hey! At least the Edmonton Oilers still suck. 🤣
Thanks for the video. Looking forward to seeing this motor run!
Ah, yes... tho a DC generator is the same as a DC motor as far as I know, they have the same physical components and structure, the only real difference is how you use it. But, since the title does say dc gen... I guess I really should say, can't wait to see this generator working.
Interesting little project 😀
Very good video quinn
24:17 I note that you have a magnetic base on your surface plate. What surface plate do you use?
I think it's time some machine company makes a hobby size horizontal boring mill!
And don't I recall being instructed on how to set up the compound to make very small cuts?
Where did I see that video?
Don't quote on this but I think it's 11 degrees. 10:1. Each thousandth on the compound makes the tool advance .0001 to the spindle. - Easy to find with the SOH CAH TOA stuff. (I'm just too lazy to dig out the trig tables or go get the TI-11)
Psst! It was here, Quinn showed it. 😉@@mathewmolk2089
You crack me up with your “shut up that’s why”😂
Great build as usual
I have a cygnet 3 cylinder radial steam engine with all the cylinders and pistons cast together, I was wondering if I should just hacksaw them apart or turn them in place. Thanks for your videos.
What would the cons of using a boring bar be?
Also, what about using a boring head in the lathe spindle + and power feed of the saddle mounted casting?
(I haven't tried either of them myself, so just questions!)
Woah, I've been wanting to see something like this for a long time. It's so hard to find details about making your own electrical generators lol.
Firstly, thank you for your videos.... i love them. Your fix for the casting base was incredibly cool. I'm only just really getting into hobby engineering, and I find the fix for error, particularly interesting!..... errr maybe coz I'm still making quite a few of them idk :)
is that a Sprocket mark on your left wrist?😸
Thanks Quinn
Very often things don't go to plan and the ability to think and correct for what went wrong is invaluable as you continually show in your videos. Could the housing have been secured a bit tighter on the mandrel by stacking 2 or 3 fender washers (to make the clamping effect less springy) to retain the housing on the mandrel?
I'm eager to know what you plan to use this for, and how you plan to power it. Very cool project!
Given the angle-block setup for the casting layout, I presume that there was some limitation which prevented using that setup on the mill (with a boring head)?
It seems like a semi-finished bore and a mandrel (perhaps an expanding mandrel to minimise sacrificial material) would have made the lathe setup so much more straightforward to tie in to your existing reference features.
Having finished the video; I can tell that there was an extremely complicated… “shut up; that’s why!”
I’ll get my coat…
Mmmm. Loved it. No.2 next. It's gonna be a late night but hey :)
Looks like another interesting and great project! Thanks for sharing!
Im sure 2 1/2 thou error is not going to matter.
The spigot of the mandrel in the 5C collet should be as long as possible, but I think I would have mounted in a vertically mounted rotary table with a chuck and rotated to dial the base surface in, but then I have that tooling available and a bigger mill that it easily fits on.
Tip for visually asthetically centering in the lathe: sharpie in a tool holder, draw a circle
Good call, knowing when to quit before it all goes south Cheers.
Great video, as always a great learning experience. ❤
I'm doing the PM Research 2A and I had a similar problem with the cylinder. I planned to face the port face and drill the pivot hole in one setup. After the facing operation I measured the bore and the difference from one end to the other was nine thousandths. It's a good thing it wasn't over nine thousandths or I would've had to call my local Saiyan for help.
I put the cylinder back in the chuck and tapped it in for 0.009" difference on the back. Then I faced it again. That worked well except now my pivot hole is slightly off center. That does not rock.
Is there a reason you didn't choose the 2A for a project? I don't see a lot of people doing them.
“Putting that indicator where our mouth is” - measured words, Quinn! 😂
Hi Blondie, thank you for another top video. I was also wondering if you could tell me the type of tool holder you used for facing the mold body please? Thank you in advance for your time and assistance. 👍🇦🇺
You could User feeler gauge tape (dont really know if you call it like that) under the upper Part so if you tap tap the other angle it doest go back down ( i Mean the last correction operation) but at all nice work done
Great. I can’t wait for part 2.
I love the sound of cast iron machining.
Lots of lessons learned in this video for sure:) You could have, once you taped the part parallel on the mandrel, then reset the square collet holder in the vice.
Stepper motors make great generators BTW.
Didn't know that, Thanx
Are those blood stains on the lathe? 👀
I haven't touched a mill since I got a C in high school shop class, but watching you craft is the best! 😄
Really cool. Is this going to light the headlamp on the A3?
I think I'll use that from now on... "Why didn't you prepare that report for Thursday's meeting?" "Because shut up that's why." "How come you're not going to work today?" "Because shut up that's why." 😆
Will the kit enable you to shoot lightning from your hands? If not, I don't want one
Quinn can already do that without the kit ;-)
Thanks. Always learn something from your videos and enjoy your touch of humor.... "because shut up" 😄
Quinn, have you ever considered making a small honing fixture so you could take 1/1000ths and such after boring, Something I’m contemplating on adding to my projects list.
I use brake master cylinder hones for that. See my steam engine build playlists. They work great.
Are the castings really hard enough to damage the hardened vice jaws!?
Not the inside of them, but the very thin outer skin is extremely hard and capable of damaging vice jaws.
The leveling device does not make the noise :(
But mandrills are a type of bracket, right?
Good show!