Hey everyone- since a lot of people seem to be losing sleep over it, no the pinion is not hardened or some fancy alloy that is going to be hurt by heating it. My Chinese lathe is honoured that you all think so highly of its components, but you can count on one hand the parts in these machines that are hardened or any alloy that would mind a little heat. So let’s not bother typing that any more. Now you can get some rest, finally! Also a lot of people saying the shear pin on the leadscrew didn’t do its job. Well, that isn’t that shear pin’s job. That shear pin is to save the leadscrew if you crash with the half nut engaged. It has a 4:1 (plus the rack) mechanical advantage over the pinion and there’s six gears and shafts between the two. That pin ain’t gonna shear from the power feed. This lathe SHOULD have a shear pin on that pinion. That would be nice. But it isn’t that existing shear pin’s fault. If it would was weak enough to shear from that pinion at the other end of a 4:1 gearbox, you couldn’t cut threads with it. It would shear from the force of the half nut pushing hard through a 13 tpi thread. So feel free to complain that there should be a SECOND shear pin here, but don’t blame that one. It’s doing its job by not shearing here. 😉
I also bought a Chinese 6125 lathe, the DC motor will becoming weaker some years later and you have to replace a better AC motor. Maybe I will buy a big second industry lathe.
Hey heads up, the shoulder of the pinion took a slight deformation where you applied the percussive maintenance with your precision impact device. Looks like it may create a wear spot on the cast iron case and pull the pinion out ever so slightly which could affect alignment. It may end up wearing itself some clearance, but just in case you didn't notice it. It can be seen clearly at 13:02 in the video. My 14 year old pointed it out to me. I love to sit down with my 10 and 14 (soon to be 15) year old girls and watch your videos, it inspires the hell out of them. I mean, I tell them all the time they can do this kind of stuff, but Dad is just Dad, I am supposed to say that, and they help me often in the garage/shop. But seeing you doing this work, your openness and honesty in your approach really speaks to them, thanks for putting out this content, it is much appreciated.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nothing wrong with this method. I just wanted to suggest a nice easy lathe project. Not sure how well known they are as far as tools go, with a few different attachments (various thread sizes for example) they can be really useful. Sometimes its really helpful to be able to tappy-tap-tap instead of gradually build up the force. If you use them to remove dowel pins you do that first, before undoing the bolts. Probably not worth buying for most people, but simple to make out of some random bits of steel.
I pulled my first commercial lathe out of a green bin, my kids in grade school. That's been almost forty years, and five or six lathes later. I just sold my "extra bridgeport" a couple months ago, my daughter put it on facebook, you meet the nicest people, selling old machine tools, and buying them. It's always nice when one can tear it apart, and make it better than it was before.
Great repair. An alternate method of straightening is to heat the part and then put a wet rag on the high spot which will pull it back toward straight. Keep on keeping on.
bent a axle on my 4 wheeler 15 years ago .. priced a new one said I would try and fix this 1st ,, they told me and other people said do NOT heat it ,, it was hardened ,, I have a cheap pipe bender with the dies and a jack in it .. rolled the axle on a flat surface marked the bend .. put it in the bender and rolled it again checking and marking the spot repeated 3 or 4 times ..reinstalled tested ok .. just have to know what your heating is not hardened or you have to get it re hardened
Quinn, you nailed it, I love repairing more than the oh sh#$%. Good thing for you you were dealing with parts easy to see and feel. Unfortunately last night I was repositioning my $100.00 indicator on my mill to set up my rotary table and accidentally knocked it off on to the concrete. Well didn't work when I picked it up. Rest of the evening spent digging out watchmakers screwdrivers and doing an autopsy on said instrument, smallest screwdrivers I had, akin to working on fleas balls. Had to disassemble the Guage and found the tiny clock arm mechanism knocked out of its groove. Removed it slid it back in place, worked perfect. So never give up no matter what. I'm 71 years old but still figure difficulties out. Hang in there girl, you are brilliant.
Awkward tension pins/roll pins. Take a piece of wire (I use stainless tig welding wire) Put it through the hole that the pin is to go through. Slide the pin down the wire to begin seating in the hole. Use a punch to start the pin. Remove wire and complete reseating of the pin.
@@Blondihacks I have used a magnet have several few look like a old tv antenna they extend out have sever different sizes tips ..could also have got down in the oil bath I think not sure how tight the room you had ,, great video ,, did you get the spare part ordered yet ??? I have a mini mill/drill press I need to find the wire diagram for it wires come apart don't know where they go ,, unit from the slow boat area ..you did great on the repair see you in the next video ..
Supporting the leadscrew with a machinist jack for tapping out the tapered shear pin is a great idea and convinces me it's time to make some machinist jacks.
I have succesfully straightened round items in the following way: first I machined aluminum half-rings, with the ring outer diameter double (or so) the outer diameter of the axle. (The rings were made with internal diameter to match the outer diameter of the axle that needed straightening, and then I sawed the rings in half.) The half-rings allowed me to exert a lot of force, without risking damage to the surface of the axle. I used a setup with three half-rings. I clamped the assembly in a vise with wide enough jaws, with the middle half ring set to push at the spot along the axle where it had been bent. So one jaw of the vise was pushing only the outer ends of the (short) axle, and the other jaw was pushing only the one half-ring at the spot where the bend had occurred. I supported the axle, so I could back off the jaws without the axle sliding down. With the jaws hardly pushing I slowly rotated the axle to feel where it was binding a little. At the orientation where the axle was binding the most I turned up the force of the vise, and then I backed off again. If I could feel no reduction of the bend then I would try again, turning up to a little more force, each time backing off again, and then rotating the axle to feel if there was still an orientation where it was binding a little. That way I was able to straighten that axle back to a point where I could roll it over a surface plate and I could no longer see any wobble.
Another great video. I’m pleased you managed to straighten the part ok. Probably better tolerance than when new🤣 If you ever have to straighten anything like that again I recommend cutting a radius in the end of a cold chisel. Not to try to cut the part but to be able to direct the impact pressure to exactly the right spot. The same thing is employed to straighten crankshafts. There are some great UA-cam videos of this process. Take care and stay safe.
Nice job Quinn, we have straighten a few shafts between two Vee blocks and using the arbor press . I realize your shaft is very small but I am always amazed at the memory metal has. some times you give the handle (its long) a tug and the shaft springs back . Your patience and approach to problem solving is inspirational ... Pete M
Quinn, I love watching your videos because your a down to earth person (not afraid to make mistakes). It's great to see the repair of equipment at times and also all of your projects.
I bought a little Atlas lathe years ago at an estate sale that had a similar problem with it I paid $10 for it because the carriage wouldn't move but somebody had crashed it while it was in feed and did quite the number on it thank goodness there were still parts at that time available mid-90s ALL HAIL QUINN!!! Not only Machinist,, but up-and-coming machine maintenance mechanic..😸😼👑
Quinn, in my opinion, this is one of your very best videos, especially for a newbie like myself. I'm bound to make more mistakes than you and this video encourages me to dig into the nitty gritty to solve and fix the problem. Just brilliant!
I tuned in expecting a replacement and got a repair. I’m impressed. That was even better than the other two Canadian versions of Crash, one by David Cronenberg and the other by Paul Haggis.
Love your vids! I was a machinist in a refinery for years, now retired and missing machining! I don’t want this to sound bad, certainly not my intentions but I love to see a woman doing this kind of work in a previously male dominated trade, good for you! Keep up the great work! Plus, you’ve got me thinking about getting a hobby lathe and possibly a mill after I finish my Charger project.
I'm working hard to not retire, I worked twenty years at a small machine shop with a woman who did very fine work, and "worked straight up, with the guys" a real peer, in every way. I spent two decades in the marines, and it was good to find "peers" there as well. It's also a challenge for a man to work in a woman's venue, I worked many years on assembly lines, on the side, in female dominated work. We each have our own ways, and learn across the gap, I think.
This gives me hope and encouragement to try to fix the rod for my power feed on my tiny unimat. The I tried to "fix" it by buying a replacement (ebay, all parts are vintage and have quirks). I have a "better" rod but it is just bent in a different places. I now have two so I can pick one to try to fix.
Would you consider making a replacement part like that, with the repaired part back in place? I am curious how deep the Hobby goes. I enjoy all your videos, and your sense of humor. Thank you for sharing.
It's good to see manufactures are still protecting consumers interest by making sure a pricy precision ground and hobbed part fails before the inexpensive bog standard shear pin needs replaced!
I don't think there is a world where the shear pin on the lead screw would break before anything in the apron would fail. It's there to protect the lead screw itself. Also some guy called Don Not told me that this ain't the most pricey machine in the world. I ain't judging Quinn, I'm sure this is a very useful and durable piece of machinery when used properly.
@@Shit_I_Missed. I take it you never had a Clausing, LaBlonde or Elliot Cardiff Major. We have broken shear pins on the lead and/or power feed shafts on all of them. (Pushing too heavy a cut) The pins are made of brass and/or aluminum at very specific diameters for a reason, you know. Just ALWAYS either use a factory pin or an exact shop made duplicate,,,including the alloy and they will do their job.
@@mathewmolk2089 Perhaps I misunderstood how the power was being transferred on this machine. I assumed it was going through the worm gear on the apron into the gears inside the apron which then bent the drive pinion. As Blonde said, the shear pin on the worm gear would be intended to save the half-nut if that is what was driving into the stalk. I guess the half-nut is also in the apron, but that's not what I intended to include.
Awesome video and a good result. One way I have used to straighten things is to put it in a hydraulic press, and use a dial indicator to measure the deflection.
For small engine oil changes, I bought one of those suction oil removers. It may not get 100%, but the ease factor so I actually change oil more often I hope makes up for that.
My first lathe had the same carriage gearbox and leadscrew with the brass shearpin - yes, I sheared it and was grateful for the designer's foresight! Good story, well told as usual.
We have been there. Keep the faith, you are not alone. I took the pinion out, cut the shaft off, drilled a hole through the pinion and replaced the shaft with a straight bit of ms. Just used the compound for turning. It worked fine as well.
In that application, the Starrett framing hammer is referred to in industry as a 16 oz. precision alignment probe, or a tactical lateral impact enhancement device.
I have this exact lathe and had a similar type of crash and bent the same shaft. Mine inevitably was also cracked where the cross pin presses in and I discovered that the whole part was made of cast iron. I ended up cutting off the shaft from the gear, using just the compound to bore out the gear to 11.8mm , and heat shrunk the gear on to a piece of 12mm precision ground 1045 steel shaft I got from McMaster Carr. 2 years later its still standing up to heavy daily use. It's hard to believe how sturdy these little lathes are, my Pm1022 has literally faced and chamfered 300 stainless parts a day for 5 years and shows very little wear. It can keep up with my Doosan Puma no problem when I need to clean up the back side of parted spacers and standoffs, carbide ccmt 32.51 inserts are just perfect for the power it has.
Love your videos, as well as, your sense of humor. I’m always impressed at your level of mechanical understanding. I’m an amateur machinist and have learned a lot from you. I also find your voice soothing, very easy to listen to.
When I have to take apart something oily I copy the manual pages then with one of those $10 laminators put each in plastic. Nice to work with and don’t have to worry about ruining the original manual. Bought one of those Bridgeport rebuild guides and laminated the whole thing.
Hey G'day, I've seen your youtubes a few times and finally a subscriber. I do appreciate your knowledge and the wonderful and easily digestible way you tackle all your tutorials!!! keep it up.
Quinn, I love seeing you do this stuff, it gives me more confidence in my journey with Machining. Remembering that we have the tools to fix the tools is a hard lesson to learn.
Love your vids and tutorials... Pragmatic... Perfect... It does prove one thing.... You are intelligent and not just another pretty face... Your sense of humor makes me smile, profusely... I'm hooked on learning all kinds of stuff..
Ooh, thanks for posting this video! I have no problems with my minilathe but I'm slowly tearing down an old Sheldon lathe and need to take the carriage apart to clean, troubleshoot and all that jazz. This helps me feel a little more comfortable about it.
I admire your tenacity - I once tried to drill out a rusty, seized in roll pin - it was impossible as it was hardened so broke a load of drill bits - ended up getting an angle grinder on it! Heatin' 'n' beatin' - great phrase :D Oh and telescopic magnet is brilliant for fishing things out!
Ahhh, it was Quinn. It sounded like Queenie. Duh, I could have just looked at your patreon info right there in front of me! Excellent job by the way. I too am no machine repair person. Everything I know I know it from working on cars and some equipment but almost all cars. I did use to be a tool designer on prog dies. The job didn't help me be a better mechanic but the training did and the fact that I was one of those "a hole engineers" we mechanics always complain about I developed a healthy appreciation for the guys in the front office. Working in machine shop, briefly helped me use my training as we were required to take the entire machine tool operations sequence. People were complaining about "having to take all those useless classes" because "I'm not going to be working in some nasty machine shop"....yea..... Being older when I went to college and paying out of pocket gave me a level of appreciation for it and all the work I did as a result all the way to being a mechanic in my mid fifties. Again, very good workmanship and especially the chasing down the problem so quickly. It's easy to second guess from the hind sight but I personally might have tried the press first. It would have taken almost no movement to straighten it and so I probably would have over bent it and like the proverbial coat hanger....snap. You took the calmer and smarter approach I would say. Thanks for the vid as always!
Trick I learned from my dad a long time ago: if you've got a roll-pin to insert in an awkward spot, a matchstick/toothpick will give you some extra surface to hold on to to get it started in the hole.
Hi Quinn I just found you channel, and you are completely awesome!!!!! I am a hobby machinist, I have learned so much in just the short time I’ve been watching your channel. Years ago I got a 13/40 lathe for 50 bucks. I had to go through it and clean it up ways where lightly cover in powdery rust(no pitting). I used electrolysis to clean a lot of the parts, polished the ways with ultra fine diamond hone. Got it dialed in, started it up and found that the carriage had been crashed like yours. The same part was bent. I drilled it and used drill rod turned to correct diameter and pinned just like you said. Been working for 15 years now. I love being able to make or build what I need. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it’s nice to learn new things. Take care and God bless you and yours.
Hi Quin, thanks for these videos, always good to see people figuring out solutions and fixes instead of just going and buying replacements. I think now you have the lathe back and operational, it would certainly be a good idea to fabricate a replacement with, as you said a shear pin. As has already been suggested a ground out chisel gives you more control for placement of 'tickling' blows, further to that, should you be faced with similar is to calculate blocks to fit beneath the 'tickled' area to prevent you from blowing beyond straight into a negative bend and then have to try and straighten from the other side, too many of them will eventually result in fracture. Re the oil in these lathes, being as they are literally just dipping the teeth as it rotates, I personally would look at filling as high as possible, at least to half the height of the shafts. Overfilling won't damage as it's not a pressurised system, and this way should keep bearings bathed in lube. Anyway, keep up the good work 👌👍🏼
Reminded me of pulling the main cam/bull gear assembly out of a much abused & misassembled 1875 platen press. Beautiful old machine, over 100 years old. Did get it fixed but it was quite a puzzle getting the beast to run smooth again. (Nothing’s more fun than running a treadle powered cast iron beast. And yes, I had the same pin problems.)
Did the same thing on my 14-40 because the lead screw clutch was adjusted so tight it was no longer a clutch--except I had the fun of cracking and distorting the housing in the process. 1977 era Korean lathe so it was fix or scrap, no part replacement. Sometimes ya just gotta do what ya gotta do, inventing a LOT of new swear words in the process. As always, excellent video.
Blondihacks, I'm glad you were able to fix the problem and get you lathe back into service. Your videos are quite informative as well as entertaining! We hope to see more awesome projects performed with your machines. Keep on keeping on! May the FORCE be with you & have a magical day!
Awesome post again. I am an Electrical Contractor & Electronics Engineer and on occasion have found pausing to express harsh language is just what is needed to get the job done. 🙂
Yup.......brings me back to crashing my Craftex 709 ............twice!!! Once in the x....and once in y. You really have to be on the ball when using the power feeds. Cracked some change gear bushings. So that was my baptism into my first lathe projects.....making those bushings which included keyways....luckily on the outside diameter of the bushing. I really took it hard on these crashes.......but could happen to besr of us. I love your videos....and learn something all the time. I'm an old timer , but still have to work partly to support this habit.....amongst other things. Keep up your great videos!!!
My lathe has a similar issue through a similar lapse in concentration and I have been avoiding the repair because I thought it would be a major pain in the arse. But you made it look easy, so I'm now buoyed to give it a go at the earliest opportunity. Cheers 👍
Good work on the repair. Saving money is great but also learning more about your machine is better. The cat sound when moving the cabinet was a bonus since it woke my cat up from her slumber.
I had a table saw come in to the shop this week. Very similar damage as you are seeing, but my lathe was (is) still intact. Evidently, someone was moving this heavy saw, and it fell over, and bent the height adjustment shaft. 30 (or so) degrees. I managed to get the shaft out, bent it straight. Within 4 or 5 degrees, but the shaft was no longer really circular any more. (Did I mention my lathe?) Chucked it up, and filed/sanded it, until it ran true. We had another table saw come in, that is the same model, and I used the one I had apart, to figure out how to service the newer one. When I got the first one fixed, it ran better than the newer one. Yes,I DO get inspiration from your videos, even though when I went to machine shop, men were walking on the moon. steve
On EMCO lathes (made in Austria) the leadscrew is attached to the gear by a simple 3mm aluminium pin. if something crashes it cuts itself acting as a fuse. I crashed 3 or 4 times without any damage, just the pin to be replaced.
I was doing a similar job on a lathe and ran into the same problem. The table to the right of the lathe was in the way for me as it was for you at 18:00. There was nowhere to move my table, I had to cut the corner of the table because there is nowhere to move it.
Hi - what a great video, I am in the throws of doing a similar project on my mill, the knee lift shaft s bent so I will be using the same method to straiten it. Unfortunately it is a bigger shaft. I have a little more confidence from your video. Thanks, Ian
Yup, like I posted in your previous video, I bent mine doing the exactly same thing, only ran my carriage into steady rest instead of tailstock. Nice repair only you kinda went about it the hard way. I just dropped the pillow block end of leadscrew, dropped the gearbox and removed pinion gear. Chucked pinion in 3 jaw, dial indicated, and tapped it straight. Straightened within .002 !!!
Nice job. Although in a similar job, I recommend using your mill bed, hold down clamps and V-blocks. By using the V-block to hold down the thick shaft, you can locate the bend and actually use a dial indicator to see how much you are moving the bend back into position. Just a suggestion as we used to straighten bent shafts this way in my time in the Navy.
Having taking apart a 1940/50's (1943 design date, unsure of actual production date) lathe's carriage powerfeed and leadscrew assembly, I am VERY envious of that coupler to remove your lathe's leadscrew from it's gearbox, aswell as the pillowblock's alignment pins that are front-removable! In my case I had to take the gearbox, apron, and pillowblock off and back onto the lathe as one large, unwieldly assembly!
Great video! Thank you for showing the troubleshooting and problem solving - it was very instructive! Also loved the "Adult language in progress" screen :D
I really like your videos, I’m looking at getting the same lathe to learn on. You’re a good machinist/mechanic. I’m a pipe fitter/welder, HVAC mechanic so I’m pretty excited about learning something new over 40 years experience in my trade. Thanks for sharing your project videos and tips. Thanks,Tommy
Very well done with the careful figuring it out steps. Having done a similar job on 100 + year old Drummond lathes the point to take home here is gently finding out exactly what holds the damn thing together. It's often plain (ish) to see but never 100% certain that it's a taper not a thread. LH thread ? and my favourite ,stacked grub screws.
Don't forget to pre-start that roll pin in the gear next time! I use that trick often because my hands often aren't steady enough to hold the roll pin in a tight space, especially over an open oil sump!!
Thanks Quin for that. My very similar lathe has a similar problem after dropping screw cut lever inadvertently into gear while feeding. Ouch. Interesting how your lathe feed lever is up for long travel and down for cross. Mine opposite
Did you look at the rack gear inn the location where the pinion was bent. In shops I have worked in. There were guys that drilled with large drills in the tool post. Generally when this kind of thing happened the rack gear could also be damaged. Just a thought.
Hey Quinn, I have a Craftex CX-708 10" X 18" Lathe new, it's got about a year or two on it now with low use (I know, my bad).. When I first unpacked it, I drained the factory oil out of the gear box because I 1) didn't trust it 2) it was almost empty (shipped with minimal oil). I put in fresh recommended oil in and noticed it was "noisy", I noticed the gears weren't "picking up" what I would consider enough oil to properly lubricate the gear head. I added about 4 oz. of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer to the oil. Wow, what a difference, the noise was completely dampened and the gears were all picking up a great coating of oil which reduced the gear lash and noise big time. The lathe was completely different in performance as well, it doesn't labour like it did before when taking an aggressive cut. We use to use the Lucas Oil Stabilizer in Semi Trailer tractor transmissions, it increased the service duration of the transmissions by offering that "coating effect" to the square cut gears that you don't get with standard gear oil. I also added it to my collectors 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD motorcycle oil and it's the difference between day and night for performance and smooth shifting on long rides. You like to share tips and tricks so, I thought I would pass this along in return. Thank You for sharing and have a great day.. Cheers from Canada!
I've seen other people straighten Shasta by heating only the high side of the bend, then letting it cool. The metal shrinks and bends it back the right direction. Then just repeat until straight. Might be difficult on something as small as yours, but might work with a small enough torch tip. The nice part is, you can keep it between centers on the lathe and check the run out each time.
Well done Was nice to see the inner workings of your Lathe a little there. I am looking into possibly buying one of those Lathes in the distant future myself.
Hi Blond, thanks for the video. For days I was searching the net for the very same decfect on mine lathe as you had on yours but could not find a good video until I saw your video, so thans again.
I have come across a few tapered brass pins on various cheaper machines over the years but I wouldn’t say their that common, great vid, methodical working out of how to do things 👍
Awesome vid, as always 🙂 I was surprised you didn't have a dowel extractor, they are a great fairly simple turning project that maybe your viewers would enjoy / benefit from you making. I know you'd do it in a inspirational can do kinda way 🙂
Great video as always. Glad I am not the only one to drop small parts into awkward spots. I would have tried a small telescopic magnet. No good on a brass pin of course!
Hey everyone- since a lot of people seem to be losing sleep over it, no the pinion is not hardened or some fancy alloy that is going to be hurt by heating it. My Chinese lathe is honoured that you all think so highly of its components, but you can count on one hand the parts in these machines that are hardened or any alloy that would mind a little heat. So let’s not bother typing that any more. Now you can get some rest, finally!
Also a lot of people saying the shear pin on the leadscrew didn’t do its job. Well, that isn’t that shear pin’s job. That shear pin is to save the leadscrew if you crash with the half nut engaged. It has a 4:1 (plus the rack) mechanical advantage over the pinion and there’s six gears and shafts between the two. That pin ain’t gonna shear from the power feed. This lathe SHOULD have a shear pin on that pinion. That would be nice. But it isn’t that existing shear pin’s fault. If it would was weak enough to shear from that pinion at the other end of a 4:1 gearbox, you couldn’t cut threads with it. It would shear from the force of the half nut pushing hard through a 13 tpi thread. So feel free to complain that there should be a SECOND shear pin here, but don’t blame that one. It’s doing its job by not shearing here. 😉
.....and if it was hardened, it wouldn't have bent in the first place!! Another interesting and informative video Quinn, Thanks!
LoL 😆
I also bought a Chinese 6125 lathe, the DC motor will becoming weaker some years later and you have to replace a better AC motor. Maybe I will buy a big second industry lathe.
@@mwakelin if it was hardened it may have stripped teeth of gears .
Hey heads up, the shoulder of the pinion took a slight deformation where you applied the percussive maintenance with your precision impact device. Looks like it may create a wear spot on the cast iron case and pull the pinion out ever so slightly which could affect alignment. It may end up wearing itself some clearance, but just in case you didn't notice it.
It can be seen clearly at 13:02 in the video. My 14 year old pointed it out to me. I love to sit down with my 10 and 14 (soon to be 15) year old girls and watch your videos, it inspires the hell out of them. I mean, I tell them all the time they can do this kind of stuff, but Dad is just Dad, I am supposed to say that, and they help me often in the garage/shop. But seeing you doing this work, your openness and honesty in your approach really speaks to them, thanks for putting out this content, it is much appreciated.
Next project: fabricating a slide hammer. Its a hammer for pulling, works great for dowel pins like this. Its actually nice of them to use this type.
I think her method worked well.
Pulled carburetor jets the same way. Taped non metering area with a 4-40 tap.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nothing wrong with this method. I just wanted to suggest a nice easy lathe project. Not sure how well known they are as far as tools go, with a few different attachments (various thread sizes for example) they can be really useful.
Sometimes its really helpful to be able to tappy-tap-tap instead of gradually build up the force.
If you use them to remove dowel pins you do that first, before undoing the bolts.
Probably not worth buying for most people, but simple to make out of some random bits of steel.
@@dans_Learning_Curve both work, but I see the point, some people like having the right tool, ya know?
ah yes the slide hammer its got me in trouble many times being my goto. lol
I was thinking slide hammer too, but what she did was brilliant. One of those why didn't I think of it moments.
As soon as you found the issue, I thought, "ok, just make a replacement with the lathe", and then I learned how people end up with multiple lathes. 😁
I only have 7 😆
I pulled my first commercial lathe out of a green bin, my kids in grade school. That's been almost forty years, and five or six lathes later. I just sold my "extra bridgeport" a couple months ago, my daughter put it on facebook, you meet the nicest people, selling old machine tools, and buying them. It's always nice when one can tear it apart, and make it better than it was before.
This is one of your best voice-overs ever with your "adult language" intermission and your imperial fist shakes. Excellent!
Great repair. An alternate method of straightening is to heat the part and then put a wet rag on the high spot which will pull it back toward straight. Keep on keeping on.
For a master class on straightening check out Kieth Fenner's videos.
@@markbernier8434
Thanks for suggesting Keith Fenner's video on shaft straightening. It is quite an interesting and effective technique.
bent a axle on my 4 wheeler 15 years ago .. priced a new one said I would try and fix this 1st ,, they told me and other people said do NOT heat it ,, it was hardened ,, I have a cheap pipe bender with the dies and a jack in it .. rolled the axle on a flat surface marked the bend .. put it in the bender and rolled it again checking and marking the spot repeated 3 or 4 times ..reinstalled tested ok .. just have to know what your heating is not hardened or you have to get it re hardened
Quinn, you nailed it, I love repairing more than the oh sh#$%. Good thing for you you were dealing with parts easy to see and feel. Unfortunately last night I was repositioning my $100.00 indicator on my mill to set up my rotary table and accidentally knocked it off on to the concrete. Well didn't work when I picked it up. Rest of the evening spent digging out watchmakers screwdrivers and doing an autopsy on said instrument, smallest screwdrivers I had, akin to working on fleas balls. Had to disassemble the Guage and found the tiny clock arm mechanism knocked out of its groove. Removed it slid it back in place, worked perfect. So never give up no matter what. I'm 71 years old but still figure difficulties out. Hang in there girl, you are brilliant.
Awkward tension pins/roll pins.
Take a piece of wire (I use stainless tig welding wire)
Put it through the hole that the pin is to go through.
Slide the pin down the wire to begin seating in the hole.
Use a punch to start the pin.
Remove wire and complete reseating of the pin.
Good tip!
Ill second on good tip! I deal with those pins fairly often and will make good use of that suggestion.
@@Blondihacks I have used a magnet have several few look like a old tv antenna they extend out have sever different sizes tips ..could also have got down in the oil bath I think not sure how tight the room you had ,, great video ,, did you get the spare part ordered yet ??? I have a mini mill/drill press I need to find the wire diagram for it wires come apart don't know where they go ,, unit from the slow boat area ..you did great on the repair see you in the next video ..
That stuff about different oils was REALLY fascinating! Thanks...
Supporting the leadscrew with a machinist jack for tapping out the tapered shear pin is a great idea and convinces me it's time to make some machinist jacks.
availed crashing the dam Lath we have all done it . been there got the shirt ,
I have succesfully straightened round items in the following way: first I machined aluminum half-rings, with the ring outer diameter double (or so) the outer diameter of the axle. (The rings were made with internal diameter to match the outer diameter of the axle that needed straightening, and then I sawed the rings in half.) The half-rings allowed me to exert a lot of force, without risking damage to the surface of the axle. I used a setup with three half-rings. I clamped the assembly in a vise with wide enough jaws, with the middle half ring set to push at the spot along the axle where it had been bent. So one jaw of the vise was pushing only the outer ends of the (short) axle, and the other jaw was pushing only the one half-ring at the spot where the bend had occurred. I supported the axle, so I could back off the jaws without the axle sliding down. With the jaws hardly pushing I slowly rotated the axle to feel where it was binding a little. At the orientation where the axle was binding the most I turned up the force of the vise, and then I backed off again. If I could feel no reduction of the bend then I would try again, turning up to a little more force, each time backing off again, and then rotating the axle to feel if there was still an orientation where it was binding a little. That way I was able to straighten that axle back to a point where I could roll it over a surface plate and I could no longer see any wobble.
Your openness about the ENTIRE process is refreshing. Some people were born master machinists, apparently.
Another great video. I’m pleased you managed to straighten the part ok. Probably better tolerance than when new🤣 If you ever have to straighten anything like that again I recommend cutting a radius in the end of a cold chisel. Not to try to cut the part but to be able to direct the impact pressure to exactly the right spot. The same thing is employed to straighten crankshafts. There are some great UA-cam videos of this process. Take care and stay safe.
Good idea! I actually have a dull chisel I could have used
Nice job Quinn, we have straighten a few shafts between two Vee blocks and using the arbor press . I realize your shaft is very small but I am always amazed at the memory metal has. some times you give the handle (its long) a tug and the shaft springs back . Your patience and approach to problem solving is inspirational ... Pete M
Quinn, I love watching your videos because your a down to earth person (not afraid to make mistakes). It's great to see the repair of equipment at times and also all of your projects.
I love watching the mistakes and how to fix them. Always fascinating to see how other people approach problems.
Exactly this - it's great to see people who are humble about what they do.
I bought a little Atlas lathe years ago at an estate sale that had a similar problem with it I paid $10 for it because the carriage wouldn't move but somebody had crashed it while it was in feed and did quite the number on it thank goodness there were still parts at that time available mid-90s ALL HAIL QUINN!!!
Not only Machinist,, but up-and-coming machine maintenance mechanic..😸😼👑
You continue to amaze me. Your mechanical ability and knowledge rival anyone. You are also a talented entertainer.
Quinn, in my opinion, this is one of your very best videos, especially for a newbie like myself. I'm bound to make more mistakes than you and this video encourages me to dig into the nitty gritty to solve and fix the problem. Just brilliant!
I tuned in expecting a replacement and got a repair. I’m impressed. That was even better than the other two Canadian versions of Crash, one by David Cronenberg and the other by Paul Haggis.
Love your vids! I was a machinist in a refinery for years, now retired and missing machining! I don’t want this to sound bad, certainly not my intentions but I love to see a woman doing this kind of work in a previously male dominated trade, good for you! Keep up the great work! Plus, you’ve got me thinking about getting a hobby lathe and possibly a mill after I finish my Charger project.
I'm working hard to not retire, I worked twenty years at a small machine shop with a woman who did very fine work, and "worked straight up, with the guys" a real peer, in every way. I spent two decades in the marines, and it was good to find "peers" there as well. It's also a challenge for a man to work in a woman's venue, I worked many years on assembly lines, on the side, in female dominated work. We each have our own ways, and learn across the gap, I think.
She's a alphabet person
@@AnnaBelle-sp9kq Uh,,,, well some people are good at letters and some at numbers!
@@turbobus6731 lol maybe you don't get it. Quinn is a he/she
@@AnnaBelle-sp9kq oh,,,, well,,,,, everybody has to be something!
This gives me hope and encouragement to try to fix the rod for my power feed on my tiny unimat. The I tried to "fix" it by buying a replacement (ebay, all parts are vintage and have quirks). I have a "better" rod but it is just bent in a different places. I now have two so I can pick one to try to fix.
Would you consider making a replacement part like that, with the repaired part back in place? I am curious how deep the Hobby goes. I enjoy all your videos, and your sense of humor. Thank you for sharing.
It's good to see manufactures are still protecting consumers interest by making sure a pricy precision ground and hobbed part fails before the inexpensive bog standard shear pin needs replaced!
I don't think there is a world where the shear pin on the lead screw would break before anything in the apron would fail. It's there to protect the lead screw itself. Also some guy called Don Not told me that this ain't the most pricey machine in the world. I ain't judging Quinn, I'm sure this is a very useful and durable piece of machinery when used properly.
@@Shit_I_Missed. I take it you never had a Clausing, LaBlonde or Elliot Cardiff Major. We have broken shear pins on the lead and/or power feed shafts on all of them. (Pushing too heavy a cut) The pins are made of brass and/or aluminum at very specific diameters for a reason, you know. Just ALWAYS either use a factory pin or an exact shop made duplicate,,,including the alloy and they will do their job.
@@mathewmolk2089 Perhaps I misunderstood how the power was being transferred on this machine. I assumed it was going through the worm gear on the apron into the gears inside the apron which then bent the drive pinion. As Blonde said, the shear pin on the worm gear would be intended to save the half-nut if that is what was driving into the stalk. I guess the half-nut is also in the apron, but that's not what I intended to include.
Awesome video and a good result. One way I have used to straighten things is to put it in a hydraulic press, and use a dial indicator to measure the deflection.
You're one of my favorites. I strive to have your patience and positive outlook. Good form as always.👍
For small engine oil changes, I bought one of those suction oil removers. It may not get 100%, but the ease factor so I actually change oil more often I hope makes up for that.
Lots of respect to you for showing your mistakes . Continued success on your channel and your projects .
I love the way you describe the process, especially the frustrating stuff.
My first lathe had the same carriage gearbox and leadscrew with the brass shearpin - yes, I sheared it and was grateful for the designer's foresight!
Good story, well told as usual.
We have been there. Keep the faith, you are not alone. I took the pinion out, cut the shaft off, drilled a hole through the pinion and replaced the shaft with a straight bit of ms. Just used the compound for turning. It worked fine as well.
Using the compound to do the turning is a great workaround. Will remember that!
In that application, the Starrett framing hammer is referred to in industry as a 16 oz. precision alignment probe, or a tactical lateral impact enhancement device.
Great job Quinn! It never fails, when I crash a machine I need that machine to make the part to fix it.
Ain’t that the truth!
I have this exact lathe and had a similar type of crash and bent the same shaft. Mine inevitably was also cracked where the cross pin presses in and I discovered that the whole part was made of cast iron. I ended up cutting off the shaft from the gear, using just the compound to bore out the gear to 11.8mm , and heat shrunk the gear on to a piece of 12mm precision ground 1045 steel shaft I got from McMaster Carr. 2 years later its still standing up to heavy daily use. It's hard to believe how sturdy these little lathes are, my Pm1022 has literally faced and chamfered 300 stainless parts a day for 5 years and shows very little wear. It can keep up with my Doosan Puma no problem when I need to clean up the back side of parted spacers and standoffs, carbide ccmt 32.51 inserts are just perfect for the power it has.
Love your videos, as well as, your sense of humor. I’m always impressed at your level of mechanical understanding. I’m an amateur machinist and have learned a lot from you. I also find your voice soothing, very easy to listen to.
Perfect blend of instruction, humor, and articulate expression, as always.
When I have to take apart something oily I copy the manual pages then with one of those $10 laminators put each in plastic. Nice to work with and don’t have to worry about ruining the original manual. Bought one of those Bridgeport rebuild guides and laminated the whole thing.
Never trust a manual that doesn't have greasy finger prints on it.
Seriously thank you so much for showing your failures and following it with a how to! your content is awesome!
Hey G'day, I've seen your youtubes a few times and finally a subscriber. I do appreciate your knowledge and the wonderful and easily digestible way you tackle all your tutorials!!! keep it up.
Great job! I use the pulling bolt threaded into the taper pin to tap the pin in fully and then fully tighten
Quinn, I love seeing you do this stuff, it gives me more confidence in my journey with Machining. Remembering that we have the tools to fix the tools is a hard lesson to learn.
I appreciate that you left in the little mistakes because it reminds me that I'm not a clumsy idiot, anyone can drop a pin into the abyss. ❤
Great job.
Nice repair.
Great content.
I also liked your line boring solution.
Thank you, EM.
Love your vids and tutorials... Pragmatic... Perfect... It does prove one thing.... You are intelligent and not just another pretty face... Your sense of humor makes me smile, profusely... I'm hooked on learning all kinds of stuff..
Ooh, thanks for posting this video! I have no problems with my minilathe but I'm slowly tearing down an old Sheldon lathe and need to take the carriage apart to clean, troubleshoot and all that jazz. This helps me feel a little more comfortable about it.
I really like the "here's what I tried that didn't work" stuff. Negative discoveries as useful as positive discoveries
Thanks for taking us along on this repair. I’m sure it was very satisfying when it went back in so smooth. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I admire your tenacity - I once tried to drill out a rusty, seized in roll pin - it was impossible as it was hardened so broke a load of drill bits - ended up getting an angle grinder on it! Heatin' 'n' beatin' - great phrase :D Oh and telescopic magnet is brilliant for fishing things out!
Yah I think they are spring steel, so maybe a carbide drill would be required. No fun, I’m sure!
Ahhh, it was Quinn. It sounded like Queenie. Duh, I could have just looked at your patreon info right there in front of me! Excellent job by the way. I too am no machine repair person. Everything I know I know it from working on cars and some equipment but almost all cars. I did use to be a tool designer on prog dies. The job didn't help me be a better mechanic but the training did and the fact that I was one of those "a hole engineers" we mechanics always complain about I developed a healthy appreciation for the guys in the front office. Working in machine shop, briefly helped me use my training as we were required to take the entire machine tool operations sequence. People were complaining about "having to take all those useless classes" because "I'm not going to be working in some nasty machine shop"....yea..... Being older when I went to college and paying out of pocket gave me a level of appreciation for it and all the work I did as a result all the way to being a mechanic in my mid fifties. Again, very good workmanship and especially the chasing down the problem so quickly. It's easy to second guess from the hind sight but I personally might have tried the press first. It would have taken almost no movement to straighten it and so I probably would have over bent it and like the proverbial coat hanger....snap. You took the calmer and smarter approach I would say. Thanks for the vid as always!
Trick I learned from my dad a long time ago: if you've got a roll-pin to insert in an awkward spot, a matchstick/toothpick will give you some extra surface to hold on to to get it started in the hole.
put the rollpin in the gear outside the apron much easier
Those Knipex compound-leverage channel-lock pliers are the absolute business, aren't they? Not a cheap tool, but really worth the price.
Best hand tool I own, honestly. Love them
Those Knippers! Two in my bug out pouch and one in the main toolbox. Use the heck out of them. Love em. Money well spent.
@@somebodyelse6673 "stong enough to damage themselves" really seems like a feature, not a bug.
Hi Quinn I just found you channel, and you are completely awesome!!!!! I am a hobby machinist, I have learned so much in just the short time I’ve been watching your channel. Years ago I got a 13/40 lathe for 50 bucks. I had to go through it and clean it up ways where lightly cover in powdery rust(no pitting). I used electrolysis to clean a lot of the parts, polished the ways with ultra fine diamond hone. Got it dialed in, started it up and found that the carriage had been crashed like yours. The same part was bent. I drilled it and used drill rod turned to correct diameter and pinned just like you said. Been working for 15 years now. I love being able to make or build what I need. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it’s nice to learn new things. Take care and God bless you and yours.
Hi Quin, thanks for these videos, always good to see people figuring out solutions and fixes instead of just going and buying replacements. I think now you have the lathe back and operational, it would certainly be a good idea to fabricate a replacement with, as you said a shear pin. As has already been suggested a ground out chisel gives you more control for placement of 'tickling' blows, further to that, should you be faced with similar is to calculate blocks to fit beneath the 'tickled' area to prevent you from blowing beyond straight into a negative bend and then have to try and straighten from the other side, too many of them will eventually result in fracture. Re the oil in these lathes, being as they are literally just dipping the teeth as it rotates, I personally would look at filling as high as possible, at least to half the height of the shafts. Overfilling won't damage as it's not a pressurised system, and this way should keep bearings bathed in lube. Anyway, keep up the good work 👌👍🏼
You are Awesome, Quinn. You don't miss anything. Thank You!
Reminded me of pulling the main cam/bull gear assembly out of a much abused & misassembled 1875 platen press. Beautiful old machine, over 100 years old. Did get it fixed but it was quite a puzzle getting the beast to run smooth again. (Nothing’s more fun than running a treadle powered cast iron beast. And yes, I had the same pin problems.)
Did the same thing on my 14-40 because the lead screw clutch was adjusted so tight it was no longer a clutch--except I had the fun of cracking and distorting the housing in the process. 1977 era Korean lathe so it was fix or scrap, no part replacement. Sometimes ya just gotta do what ya gotta do, inventing a LOT of new swear words in the process.
As always, excellent video.
Good job Blondiaks! Very patient to straighten the shaft.
Blondihacks, (sorry)
Blondihacks, I'm glad you were able to fix the problem and get you lathe back into service. Your videos are quite informative as well as entertaining! We hope to see more awesome projects performed with your machines. Keep on keeping on! May the FORCE be with you & have a magical day!
Nice save Quinn! “Heatin and Beatin” when gentle persuasion just isn’t working.😊👍🏻
Awesome post again. I am an Electrical Contractor & Electronics Engineer and on occasion have found pausing to express harsh language is just what is needed to get the job done. 🙂
Job done, thumbs up!
Lots of you-know-whatty-what-whatting, the masses are appeased.
Yup.......brings me back to crashing my Craftex 709 ............twice!!! Once in the x....and once in y.
You really have to be on the ball when using the power feeds. Cracked some change gear bushings. So that was my baptism into my first lathe projects.....making those bushings which included keyways....luckily on the outside diameter of the bushing. I really took it hard on these crashes.......but could happen to besr of us.
I love your videos....and learn something all the time. I'm an old timer , but still have to work partly to support this habit.....amongst other things. Keep up your great videos!!!
I enjoyed watching this little repair. So satisfying to not only build things, but to also rebuild the tools as needed. :thumbsup:
Nice job Quinn. Brass taper pins are all the rage in antique watch and clock making :) Really useful things. All the Best.
Nice work and good results. I now have a few more items stored in the "how do I take this apart" library in the noggin. Thanks!
I appreciated seeing the torch work. The key element of the fix.
Thank you, you've given me the motivation to pull mine apart and fix a couple of things as it had been crashed before it was given to me.
My lathe has a similar issue through a similar lapse in concentration and I have been avoiding the repair because I thought it would be a major pain in the arse. But you made it look easy, so I'm now buoyed to give it a go at the earliest opportunity. Cheers 👍
Good work on the repair. Saving money is great but also learning more about your machine is better. The cat sound when moving the cabinet was a bonus since it woke my cat up from her slumber.
I had a table saw come in to the shop this week.
Very similar damage as you are seeing, but my
lathe was (is) still intact. Evidently, someone was
moving this heavy saw, and it fell over, and bent the
height adjustment shaft. 30 (or so) degrees. I managed
to get the shaft out, bent it straight. Within 4 or 5 degrees,
but the shaft was no longer really circular any more. (Did
I mention my lathe?) Chucked it up, and filed/sanded it,
until it ran true.
We had another table saw come in, that is the same model,
and I used the one I had apart, to figure out how to service
the newer one.
When I got the first one fixed, it ran better than the newer
one.
Yes,I DO get inspiration from your videos, even though when
I went to machine shop, men were walking on the moon.
steve
I'm amazed every time I watch your videos by the amount of ingenuity you bring to operations like this. I loved the tiny pin puller.
On EMCO lathes (made in Austria) the leadscrew is attached to the gear by a simple 3mm aluminium pin. if something crashes it cuts itself acting as a fuse.
I crashed 3 or 4 times without any damage, just the pin to be replaced.
I was doing a similar job on a lathe and ran into the same problem. The table to the right of the lathe was in the way for me as it was for you at 18:00. There was nowhere to move my table, I had to cut the corner of the table because there is nowhere to move it.
Hi - what a great video, I am in the throws of doing a similar project on my mill, the knee lift shaft s bent so I will be using the same method to straiten it. Unfortunately it is a bigger shaft. I have a little more confidence from your video. Thanks, Ian
Quinn, to remove tapered pins with threads, you need a slide hammer... works like a charm. and likewise to reinstall em...
Great video, I am impressed by your skills and ability to share them.
Yup, like I posted in your previous video, I bent mine doing the exactly same thing, only ran my carriage into steady rest instead of tailstock. Nice repair only you kinda went about it the hard way. I just dropped the pillow block end of leadscrew, dropped the gearbox and removed pinion gear. Chucked pinion in 3 jaw, dial indicated, and tapped it straight. Straightened within .002 !!!
Nice job. Although in a similar job, I recommend using your mill bed, hold down clamps and V-blocks. By using the V-block to hold down the thick shaft, you can locate the bend and actually use a dial indicator to see how much you are moving the bend back into position.
Just a suggestion as we used to straighten bent shafts this way in my time in the Navy.
Good idea!
Glad your back up and running mate. Have a good one.
Done and done.
And with only one single and one double imperial fist shake.
Excellent.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Having taking apart a 1940/50's (1943 design date, unsure of actual production date) lathe's carriage powerfeed and leadscrew assembly, I am VERY envious of that coupler to remove your lathe's leadscrew from it's gearbox, aswell as the pillowblock's alignment pins that are front-removable!
In my case I had to take the gearbox, apron, and pillowblock off and back onto the lathe as one large, unwieldly assembly!
Great video! Thank you for showing the troubleshooting and problem solving - it was very instructive! Also loved the "Adult language in progress" screen :D
I really like your videos, I’m looking at getting the same lathe to learn on. You’re a good machinist/mechanic. I’m a pipe fitter/welder, HVAC mechanic so I’m pretty excited about learning something new over 40 years experience in my trade. Thanks for sharing your project videos and tips.
Thanks,Tommy
Very well done with the careful figuring it out steps.
Having done a similar job on 100 + year old Drummond lathes the point to take home
here is gently finding out exactly what holds the damn thing together.
It's often plain (ish) to see but never 100% certain that it's a taper not a thread.
LH thread ? and my favourite ,stacked grub screws.
Glad I am not the only one that has done that . I repaired it exactly the same way tried to get a replacement and not avialable
too bad you know someone with tools to make one. lol
Don't forget to pre-start that roll pin in the gear next time! I use that trick often because my hands often aren't steady enough to hold the roll pin in a tight space, especially over an open oil sump!!
Thanks Quin for that. My very similar lathe has a similar problem after dropping screw cut lever inadvertently into gear while feeding. Ouch.
Interesting how your lathe feed lever is up for long travel and down for cross. Mine opposite
I wonder if the brass safety pin is too big ? Pretty sure my friend said the 10" southbend I have uses catgut?? No not sprocket...
Nice job locating and repairing the problem!
Did you look at the rack gear inn the location where the pinion was bent. In shops I have worked in. There were guys that drilled with large drills in the tool post. Generally when this kind of thing happened the rack gear could also be damaged. Just a thought.
Hey Quinn, I have a Craftex CX-708 10" X 18" Lathe new, it's got about a year or two on it now with low use (I know, my bad).. When I first unpacked it, I drained the factory oil out of the gear box because I 1) didn't trust it 2) it was almost empty (shipped with minimal oil). I put in fresh recommended oil in and noticed it was "noisy", I noticed the gears weren't "picking up" what I would consider enough oil to properly lubricate the gear head. I added about 4 oz. of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer to the oil. Wow, what a difference, the noise was completely dampened and the gears were all picking up a great coating of oil which reduced the gear lash and noise big time. The lathe was completely different in performance as well, it doesn't labour like it did before when taking an aggressive cut. We use to use the Lucas Oil Stabilizer in Semi Trailer tractor transmissions, it increased the service duration of the transmissions by offering that "coating effect" to the square cut gears that you don't get with standard gear oil. I also added it to my collectors 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD motorcycle oil and it's the difference between day and night for performance and smooth shifting on long rides. You like to share tips and tricks so, I thought I would pass this along in return. Thank You for sharing and have a great day.. Cheers from Canada!
I've seen other people straighten Shasta by heating only the high side of the bend, then letting it cool. The metal shrinks and bends it back the right direction. Then just repeat until straight. Might be difficult on something as small as yours, but might work with a small enough torch tip. The nice part is, you can keep it between centers on the lathe and check the run out each time.
New subscriber and love your channel. I like seeing people critically think a problem theough and find solutions. 👌
Well done
Was nice to see the inner workings of your Lathe a little there.
I am looking into possibly buying one of those Lathes in the distant future myself.
Hi Blond, thanks for the video. For days I was searching the net for the very same decfect on mine lathe as you had on yours but could not find a good video until I saw your video, so thans again.
I have come across a few tapered brass pins on various cheaper machines over the years but I wouldn’t say their that common, great vid, methodical working out of how to do things 👍
Awesome vid, as always 🙂 I was surprised you didn't have a dowel extractor, they are a great fairly simple turning project that maybe your viewers would enjoy / benefit from you making. I know you'd do it in a inspirational can do kinda way 🙂
Excellent recovery Quinn!
That tapered pin in the pillow block would have had me stumped! Well done!!
Hey Quinn! Do you know anyone on the YT that went full Robrenz on their cheap lathe and made it super precise (and posted the process here)?
Google "polishing a turd". You'll find a lifetime supply.😇🙂😜🤪🤣🙃💩
Excellent repair execution!
Great video as always.
Glad I am not the only one to drop small parts into awkward spots.
I would have tried a small telescopic magnet. No good on a brass pin of course!