Thank you for this! I've been struggling with pick ups even when the designer gives the ratio. With this info it will give me the confidence to sub in my own row gauge!
Thank you for navigating me in the right direction but not sure if i am correct, but the calculation says divide row by sts, the verbal says divide sts by rows. I believe divide row by sts is correct. Also would like an explanation re: getting the best whole number, in the examples the best whole number was obtained by the 3 calculation, if the number is still not close to whole number after 3 should you keep going to 4, 5 etc. I tested this and on my example 5 was the closest to a whole number.
This is a valuable hack, and I'm having a little trouble understanding how "row gauge" is being used in this tutorial. "Divide YOUR row gauge by the pattern stitch requirement." It seems in this example that the 90 stitches is the number of stitches on an edge from which a ratio of stitches needs to be picked up. I think of "row gauge" as the number or row/rnds per inch in a fabric. What am I missing?
Thanks for reenforcing what I THINK? I have been doing . Without knowing any better I have been going by my swatch . Example if I get 5 stitches per inch and 7 rows per inch . Then when picking up I just do 5 stitches along the side over those 7 rows PU 1 , skip , PU 3, skip , PU 1
You're welcome! And yes, you've understood it exactly! I would pick up the stitches in a different order but the method is exactly right (and my pick up is just a preference, your way isn't wrong - it's great!). Way to go!
Thanks for this explanation. Truly adds value to doing a gauge swatch. So when the ratio is pickup 3 stitches in 4 rows, does that mean pickup every row for 3 rows and the. Skip a row? Does this leave a hole? I too would appreciate a visualization
Hi Terri - yes, that's exactly it. You'll skip the 4th row (using your example of 3 sts for 4 rows). When you pick up the stitches you'll get a bit of a gap between the loops on your needle but once you knit the first row, they disappear! I've got a tutorial coming soon to show the physical method of picking up and knitting the stitches using this Golden Ratio method!
Great explanation! For me the hardest one to figure out is picking up stitches around a neckline and how to do this without creating holes! Maybe a suggestion for a video. Thanks for all the math - I like it as well!
I’m looking at my neckline pick-up for a hood & understand I can’t apply the same math as you discussed. Looking forward to your future neckline video. BTW - I absolutely LOVE your channel & videos! You are teaching knitting empowerment 101!! Thank you ❤❤
@@Barbara-zv1wi Oh my... you've just made me a little weepy. Thank you so much! It's an honor to have you choose to watch my videos and I'm so pleased you're feeling more empowered! The collar pickup video is coming this Sunday, the 21st, but I'm not sure how relevant it will be to your hood (I have the original numbers you mentioned in my email). Would you like to send me an email directly to see if I can help you more specifically with those instructions?
Thanks for the math. I think I got it but will have to review just before I actually do it. For us math challenged people do you think you could do a small knit example applying the math to an actual garment? I think the visualization would help me.
Thanks for watching! I've got an upcoming tutorial that shows the physical method of picking up and knitting the stitches so you get a view of what it looks like! Happy knitting!
when you sense a "hole will be left, can't you pick up a stitch there and on the very next row somehow eliminate it, like K2 together or slip? I do that with sox so there are no holes, I pick up more and then k2tog or some such??? I love your formulating but for my visual right brain, the formula is huh??? can't wait to learn more!
Thank you for this video again. I have a question concerning short rows. In a top-down sweater I have placed short rows behind the neck ribbing, but it is not enough for the length of the back. When you place extra short rows lower than te neck , is there a difference if you place them before or after dividing for the sleeves?
Great question - I've had a lot of people write in about short rows so I'll be sure to include this in the same video so we can have one "big" short row episode!
Hi there, I just found you today. I am knitting a sweater that calls for the sleeves to be sewn on after you make them. I prefer to pick up stitches along the vertical edge on the garment and knit the sleeves for a more clean look. However, I’m not sure if it’s going to work. Based on your video, my gauges eight stitches to 12 rows for a 4 x 4. So after I did, the math, I figured that I’m gonna be picking up two stitches every three rows. Am I correct? And will this work technique work? And then my seams I will have to sew up from the wrist of the sleeve up to the arm hole and down the side of the sweater. Am I correct in figuring this?
If you have to pick up 37 stitches over 72 rows, you will divide 37 by 72 and get 0.5134 (or 51.34%). This is essentially a 50% ratio pick-up - meaning you'll pick up 1 stitch for every 2 rows. Your last couple of stitches will be 1 stitch for every row since you've got 1 extra stitch (the 37th).
I've got 99 rows and need to pick up 73 stitches along that edge then pick up the bottom edge. 99/73=1.36. There must be a way to figure out how often I need to pick up stitches without sketching the entire 99 stitches but I'm not enough of a math geek to figure out how to do it... (sigh) Thanks for your video.
Hi Pam - this video is intended to help you so you don't have to draw it all out because I agree - who wants to draw that all out? At about the 6 minute mark we have an example that is similar to yours. The numbers aren't exactly the same but you can work out the math using that example, I think. Basically you divide your rows (99) by the stitches you have to pick up (73) = 1.36 {as you've already noted}. Next you're going to figure out the closest ratio. 1:1.36 stitches is really hard to pick up. So next we'll try 2: 2 stitches for every 2.72 rows. Again, pretty hard to pick up. So next we try 3: pick up 3 stitches for every 4.08 rows. And that's probably the closest you'll get. So you'll pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows. You may need to fudge 1 stitch here and there near the end since it's not exactly 3 stitches for 4 rows but it would be the easiest ratio for your row to stitch gauge. Good luck!
Thank you for this! I've been struggling with pick ups even when the designer gives the ratio. With this info it will give me the confidence to sub in my own row gauge!
You're so welcome!!
I’ve seen this before, but didn’t understand the why. Your explanation has made it very clear and will help me in the future! Thanks
Awesome! Thanks for watching, Joanie!
Thank you for navigating me in the right direction but not sure if i am correct, but the calculation says divide row by sts, the verbal says divide sts by rows. I believe divide row by sts is correct. Also would like an explanation re: getting the best whole number, in the examples the best whole number was obtained by the 3 calculation, if the number is still not close to whole number after 3 should you keep going to 4, 5 etc. I tested this and on my example 5 was the closest to a whole number.
This is a valuable hack, and I'm having a little trouble understanding how "row gauge" is being used in this tutorial. "Divide YOUR row gauge by the pattern stitch requirement." It seems in this example that the 90 stitches is the number of stitches on an edge from which a ratio of stitches needs to be picked up. I think of "row gauge" as the number or row/rnds per inch in a fabric. What am I missing?
Fabulous and simple thank you for sharing!
Thanks for reenforcing what I THINK? I have been doing .
Without knowing any better I have been going by my swatch .
Example if I get 5 stitches per inch and 7 rows per inch .
Then when picking up I just do 5 stitches along the side over those 7 rows PU 1 , skip , PU 3, skip , PU 1
You're welcome! And yes, you've understood it exactly! I would pick up the stitches in a different order but the method is exactly right (and my pick up is just a preference, your way isn't wrong - it's great!). Way to go!
Thanks for this explanation. Truly adds value to doing a gauge swatch. So when the ratio is pickup 3 stitches in 4 rows, does that mean pickup every row for 3 rows and the. Skip a row? Does this leave a hole? I too would appreciate a visualization
Hi Terri - yes, that's exactly it. You'll skip the 4th row (using your example of 3 sts for 4 rows). When you pick up the stitches you'll get a bit of a gap between the loops on your needle but once you knit the first row, they disappear! I've got a tutorial coming soon to show the physical method of picking up and knitting the stitches using this Golden Ratio method!
Great explanation! For me the hardest one to figure out is picking up stitches around a neckline and how to do this without creating holes! Maybe a suggestion for a video. Thanks for all the math - I like it as well!
Thank you for watching and that's a great idea for a future video! Consider it officially "on the list"!
I’m looking at my neckline pick-up for a hood & understand I can’t apply the same math as you discussed. Looking forward to your future neckline video. BTW - I absolutely LOVE your channel & videos! You are teaching knitting empowerment 101!! Thank you ❤❤
@@Barbara-zv1wi Oh my... you've just made me a little weepy. Thank you so much! It's an honor to have you choose to watch my videos and I'm so pleased you're feeling more empowered!
The collar pickup video is coming this Sunday, the 21st, but I'm not sure how relevant it will be to your hood (I have the original numbers you mentioned in my email). Would you like to send me an email directly to see if I can help you more specifically with those instructions?
Thanks for the math. I think I got it but will have to review just before I actually do it. For us math challenged people do you think you could do a small knit example applying the math to an actual garment? I think the visualization would help me.
Thanks for watching! I've got an upcoming tutorial that shows the physical method of picking up and knitting the stitches so you get a view of what it looks like! Happy knitting!
@@TheUnapologeticKnitter I will look forward to it.
when you sense a "hole will be left, can't you pick up a stitch there and on the very next row somehow eliminate it, like K2 together or slip? I do that with sox so there are no holes, I pick up more and then k2tog or some such??? I love your formulating but for my visual right brain, the formula is huh??? can't wait to learn more!
Thank you for this video again. I have a question concerning short rows. In a top-down sweater I have placed short rows behind the neck ribbing, but it is not enough for the length of the back. When you place extra short rows lower than te neck , is there a difference if you place them before or after dividing for the sleeves?
Great question - I've had a lot of people write in about short rows so I'll be sure to include this in the same video so we can have one "big" short row episode!
@@TheUnapologeticKnitter Fantastic, thank you so much !
Hi there, I just found you today. I am knitting a sweater that calls for the sleeves to be sewn on after you make them. I prefer to pick up stitches along the vertical edge on the garment and knit the sleeves for a more clean look. However, I’m not sure if it’s going to work. Based on your video, my gauges eight stitches to 12 rows for a 4 x 4. So after I did, the math, I figured that I’m gonna be picking up two stitches every three rows. Am I correct? And will this work technique work? And then my seams I will have to sew up from the wrist of the sleeve up to the arm hole and down the side of the sweater. Am I correct in figuring this?
I’m confused. So, I have 72 rows and 37 stitches. This are for a cardigan’s sleeves. I can’t do the math could you help me please? Thank you.
If you have to pick up 37 stitches over 72 rows, you will divide 37 by 72 and get 0.5134 (or 51.34%). This is essentially a 50% ratio pick-up - meaning you'll pick up 1 stitch for every 2 rows. Your last couple of stitches will be 1 stitch for every row since you've got 1 extra stitch (the 37th).
I've got 99 rows and need to pick up 73 stitches along that edge then pick up the bottom edge. 99/73=1.36. There must be a way to figure out how often I need to pick up stitches without sketching the entire 99 stitches but I'm not enough of a math geek to figure out how to do it... (sigh) Thanks for your video.
Hi Pam - this video is intended to help you so you don't have to draw it all out because I agree - who wants to draw that all out? At about the 6 minute mark we have an example that is similar to yours. The numbers aren't exactly the same but you can work out the math using that example, I think.
Basically you divide your rows (99) by the stitches you have to pick up (73) = 1.36 {as you've already noted}.
Next you're going to figure out the closest ratio. 1:1.36 stitches is really hard to pick up. So next we'll try 2: 2 stitches for every 2.72 rows. Again, pretty hard to pick up. So next we try 3: pick up 3 stitches for every 4.08 rows. And that's probably the closest you'll get. So you'll pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows. You may need to fudge 1 stitch here and there near the end since it's not exactly 3 stitches for 4 rows but it would be the easiest ratio for your row to stitch gauge. Good luck!
@@TheUnapologeticKnitter /excellent! I missed being able to extend that 1.36. Thank you TONS for this explanation.