Anchor aweigh & Sleek Slender Hulls - S02 E34 - DIY Catamaran
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- In this episode we complete the fairing of the port hull on Wilda and talk about some technicalities of fairing in winter time :) Then we also introduce you to our fresh new boat project on Building Wilda - we start designing our Anchor rollers.
Wilda is a Schionning Wilderness 1340 sailing catamaran. She is being finished in a shed outside Melbourne. Wilda will be powered by the Sun, the Wind and the Sea...
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The harder you work the luckier you get ❤
The most emportant thing with Fibreglass is to make very sure there is no air bubbles anywhere as if there is a slight movement under the fibre it will crack and you don't want that sometimes a vacuum bag to draw out the air
coming on nicely
Thanks 🙏 It really is! Wish it was coming on faster though 🤣 And with magic 🪄 sanding being done while I sleep 🤣
Hi Guys, my builders are fairing my hulls at the moment, and it would appear that you should be sanding more, down to the glass, before calling out and refilling the low spots. The Aim is to take as much of the fairing compound off as possible, this will leave less low spots. Use the long board as much as possible but once the majority is done, a large orbital sander (200mm) with a fine grade is useful.
Yes. We did that and then painted, then sanded again, filled again, sanded again and are soon up to painting the next layer of primer. Then another round of sanding. Hopefully not sanding down to glass the final round before finally getting to top coat 🤣 yep... Lots of sanding for sure
@@buildingwilda Gday - I just read this and went "WHAT?" - I have faired a few large boats and NEVER EVER do you want to sand down to the glass! That is a truly terrible idea. If you ever start to see the merest hint of glass under the sanded filler you must stop and fill again. For me I like to use a 5 or 6 mm notched trowel and get lots of filler on the hulls and longboard that. Then you can see how much filler you have left. If the surface is fair then you can reduce the amount of filler over the entire surface - but sanding to the glass is an absolute rookie awful mistake - I know because I have given myself many uppercuts for doing it as a shortcut. Only take advice from those who have faired a boat and then sprayed it with top coat - I have seen many friends very disappointed after thinking they had a really fair boat that looked great in high build that looked much worse in top coat.
So put on a huge amount of high build - I don't like the way you put small amounts of filler on. But about 1-2mm of high build, a mist coat and then make sure you move the orbital quickly as you get rid of the mist coat with 120 and then finish off with 180 grit.
As much as I like comments, be careful, much of the advice in this section is just 180 degrees wrong.
I once built a 38ft carbon foam trimaran for an owner, post cured, all bells and whistles. A team of us spent THREE MONTHS fairing her with longboards. She came up beautifully in the end and the last 10% of the job took 1 month. That is over 800 hours of fairing to get a great finish. It was lots of filler and lots of removing it, even after we faired the foam hulls. But the boat was truly perfect. Most of the filler ended up on the floor. Most of the time was not spent on the hull sides but at the darn joins, and intersections - cancave ones especially. For my own cat I spent about about 2 months in total fairing, about 200 hours - the finish was not as good, but it was good enough. The amount of time to go from good to fabulous is immense. But don't listen to anyone who hasn't been through the utter devastation of getting it wrong and having to refair an entire hull side - so don't go to the glass, keep on the longboard for as long as possible, use lots of high build, produce lots of dust to make the boat light and fair, do a nice mist coat and get ready to cry when the top coat goes on if you rush the process. Cheers Phil
I can assure you there is a ludicrous amount of filler on the boat. And I have sanded and sanded and sanded 🤣 I have of course not sanded to the glass where the bulk of the filler is needed.
@@buildingwilda Sounds good
That would defeat the purpose of the filler.... But the high spots on this prefab panel construction are the panel joints. Where the extra glass forms the high spots.
I think you should get shares in the fairing compound company ... Not sure if you have one but why not invest in a long board sander ...and use a spray guide coat on the hull.
We are super familiar with long boards... Put me in hospital actually 🤣 Not kidding. We may use guide coat when we sand the next coat of primer. When we are on the 240 grit. Sooo much easier and more rewarding to sand something that is already nearly there! More coming up.
Hejsan, jag använder nm spackel och det går iaf att späda ut med deras vanliga epoxi och göra det mer tunnflytande .... bara noga att blanda dom färdig var för sig innan samman blandning dvs;) lycka till
Not a bad idea at all.... But I'm using different brands. Had no idea you could do that...
Axel, use a long straight edge to show the eveness of Wilda's hull. Anchor design looks interesting.
🤣 I just have to film it so no light passes under... Or Photoshop it out 🤣 Actually she's pretty good now... Better than I thought we'd be able to get it.
I turned the rollers at work during Covid. Finally getting them into the boat feels great!
Jag skulle anlita ett proffs till sista finspacklingen/slipning av ytor som man vill ha perfekta.
Jeah.. that would have been the best option... We are working with a pro, but he isn't always available and most people who work with this sort of thing would require us to move the boat to them...
But absolutely something we are always thinking of. In the end though, I'd be super happy just to have her in the water.
When you watch some of the car men filling bodywork some of them add a thinning agentto help gets better spread, could this help
I have two body fillers that we work with for the really small stuff. Different viscosity. One is really thin and gets into those pores. The other, you can build a bit with. We'll probably use both in the next round.
Great progress ..... ua-cam.com/video/rDgKIPaW5xY/v-deo.html try 4:25 onwards how Fairley Marine tackle fairing and sanding. Andy at “boat works today“ may be worth a look. 😳
Also you could thin the filler with a small amount of solvent, have done this with Safteypoxy and micro balloons on a composite airplane, l used 5-10% acetone, and it has stood up without problem 30 years. 👍
Too much and it’s epoxy doesn’t cross link properly. 😢
We've managed pretty good without acetone so far... Might be worth a try next round.... But hopefully next round will not be a thing. Just some spot filling.
Anchor is to big you only need a 20 rockler and please put anchor more forward as current spot is unfunctional for boat to swing around and not accessible if it gets stuck or Jammed also I used 25mm thickness with some 5mm thick stainless plating as well 12mm is not strong enough I will send you some photos tomorrow
The anchor is bigger than required. So is the chain, swivel, gypsy etc. They came with the boat, so I will use them. Well... I'll still need to buy chain.
The location is not perfect. But it will work. Until it fouls 🤣 and then the position will not be the greatest. Like with the equipment, the hole was already there, so rather than moving the anchor, we keep it where it is.
No roller system (that I have seen) is designed for side loading and really shouldn't have to be. I'm confident the roller system will work. If it doesn't, we'll have to change it.
If I was buying today... I'd go with 8 mm chain and all the bits. 50 to 60 m but stick with the bigger than necessary Rocna.
@@buildingwilda I used 8mm chain with the largest Muir drum winch available and it holds 45 metres of chain best decision I ever made
Or your locker won’t have enough fall (gravity) and the chain will pile up if you use a normal winch that isn’t a drum winch
The locker is pretty deep. Should work alright. Many carry much more chain in these boats. Like I said, if I didn't already have all the bits I would have considered all options. I like the drum style winches, apart from the loss of power on the outer layers.. or is it a split drum?
@@buildingwilda Your anchor will be great - just like my friends 1320. You certainly don't need a drum winch - I don't have one - I use a capstan winch and it works well on my 11.6 cat. Your setup is great and a drum winch is never used on Schionning or other performance cats. Remember to reach out to cat owners and builders who have built performance cats for advice. The advice in these comments is shockingly bad - anchors/fairing.
Thanks 🙏
Yeah. Pretty sure the Schionning team know what they are designing 🤣