I'm actually in the process of building this exact shed using some different variations of materials but I noticed you omitted discussing about installing any of the fascia boards. Also without talking about that it omits details on leaving room for 1/4-1/2" of space with the drip edge to accommodate the fascia. Did you initially mount the drip edge flush with the 2x6 rafters? Or left a gap?
Great point! Yes, I actually left a gap of 1/2” to “sneak” the facia board behind. I’ll make sure to cover those points on the long form full video. Thanks for pointing that out.
On the 8x8 shed I purchased the plans which are great, but I also purchased the sketch up. Don’t know what that really is or how it works. Can you help?
Thanks for the purchase. It really helps the channel grow! ... As far as the Sketchup file, it is a 3D modeling file. You will need an Sketchup account. www.sketchup.com/en... You can actually use your regular internet browser to look at it.
The quick way is to lay it over and caulk the gap. Obviously not a clean solution. I will do a video in the future to cover this specific. Thanks for the recommendation.
I love your videos and i hope your channel grows alot, I am sure that i will build your shed but do you know when you are roughly done? pls answer on this comment if u do!
Thanks for watching!!! I plan to have one video on building the door next week and that should complete the series. Then the following week we should have completed the plans I've been mentioning and the full material list. Stay tune, great things coming... We are planning on building various sizes and shapes in the future.
Yes I will throw a coat of paint on it, but I was not planning on making a separate video for that… I was going to include bits of the caulking and painting process on the final long video.
Suggestion .. On the T-111 siding . Treat the bottom or at least make sure it's factory sealed . T-111 Z flashing is almost always 90 degrees . Put a little bend so any water that wants to sit runs off . .. Too bad factory made Z doesn't have a kickout drip edge .More importantly , In all situations , Create at least 1/4" separation between the bottom of the T-111 and The Z flashing . Otherwise the water will in time wick up and rot away , Guaranteed .. Any time you have head flashing or transitional Z flashing . Always at least a 1/4" gap . All wood cedar , pine ,Hardi etc . Rule of Thumb ..Water is the destroyer of all homes .. Just saying . 43 years experienced master carpenter
Skipped the fascia boards? Seems like something is wonky on the corners so I was hoping to see that up close since it is the hardest part and least consistent in how it is done on all the videos Ive seen.
Super helpful and straightforward video. I like that tip for cutting the angle on the top trim. Thanks!
Thanks for watching… !!!!
I'm actually in the process of building this exact shed using some different variations of materials but I noticed you omitted discussing about installing any of the fascia boards. Also without talking about that it omits details on leaving room for 1/4-1/2" of space with the drip edge to accommodate the fascia.
Did you initially mount the drip edge flush with the 2x6 rafters? Or left a gap?
Great point! Yes, I actually left a gap of 1/2” to “sneak” the facia board behind. I’ll make sure to cover those points on the long form full video. Thanks for pointing that out.
Thanks!!! Almost there! 😂
Hey! Nice work!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video!
However I can't find Z flasing in my area. Can we use roof drip edged instead of z flashing with LP smart pannels?
I would recommend you to add 1" trim where the boards meet and add silicone on top and bottom.
On the 8x8 shed I purchased the plans which are great, but I also purchased the sketch up. Don’t know what that really is or how it works. Can you help?
Thanks for the purchase. It really helps the channel grow! ... As far as the Sketchup file, it is a 3D modeling file. You will need an Sketchup account. www.sketchup.com/en... You can actually use your regular internet browser to look at it.
How do you trim around the window with a flange? Do you have to router the back of trim so it sits flat over the flange?
The quick way is to lay it over and caulk the gap. Obviously not a clean solution. I will do a video in the future to cover this specific. Thanks for the recommendation.
Solid
💪
I love your videos and i hope your channel grows alot, I am sure that i will build your shed but do you know when you are roughly done? pls answer on this comment if u do!
Thanks for watching!!! I plan to have one video on building the door next week and that should complete the series. Then the following week we should have completed the plans I've been mentioning and the full material list. Stay tune, great things coming... We are planning on building various sizes and shapes in the future.
@@EverydayShed Thanks so much!
Do you plan to caulk and paint the shed? If so, another video on that process would be great too!
Yes I will throw a coat of paint on it, but I was not planning on making a separate video for that… I was going to include bits of the caulking and painting process on the final long video.
What is the actual thickness (not width) of the LP SmartSide trim? I'm looking for a product that is actually 1" thick. Thanks
It’s only 5/8” thick 👍
Suggestion .. On the T-111 siding . Treat the bottom or at least make sure it's factory sealed . T-111 Z flashing is almost always 90 degrees . Put a little bend so any water that wants to sit runs off . .. Too bad factory made Z doesn't have a kickout drip edge .More importantly , In all situations , Create at least 1/4" separation between the bottom of the T-111 and The Z flashing . Otherwise the water will in time wick up and rot away , Guaranteed .. Any time you have head flashing or transitional Z flashing . Always at least a 1/4" gap . All wood cedar , pine ,Hardi etc . Rule of Thumb ..Water is the destroyer of all homes .. Just saying . 43 years experienced master carpenter
Great stuff, thanks so much for sharing your experience. 🙌
Skipped the fascia boards? Seems like something is wonky on the corners so I was hoping to see that up close since it is the hardest part and least consistent in how it is done on all the videos Ive seen.
I will have more videos on this topic. I would like to do a deep dive video just on facia boards.