Really. The idea of carrying a fighting knife when weight is a real thing, smaller utility knives seem more realistic and useful for almost every application. I mean in the infantry, folding e-tools and bayonets are common issue for modern combat survival scenarios. Realistically speaking though, a smaller Swiss Army Knife is the probably perfect addition for any kit.
My additional suggestions. 4 inch blade range. I have multiple Esse4 and Fallkniven F1. Carry in horizontal, behind the back sheaths. 6 inch blade. J.P. Peltonen. Have two. Developed by an officer in the Army of Finland. Imagine a Mora type knife on steroids with a thick blade. Other thoughts. The carry sheath can be critical. Current version of US Airforce survival knife which is the old 499 updated. Cut off the top rubber guard, sharpen with say a Worksharp. Current version of the old WW2 Ka-bar Navy knife. The sheath is upgraded to modern materials. Ontario Mark 2 knife. Your two favorite knives are beyond my budget . . . and I have the skills to modify less expensive knives. The only reason that I have Fallkniven A1 knives is because I was able to obtain them below dealer prices.
Sir, thank you for your review. I know that you cannot go wrong with the ESEE knives. The Bark River knives are very nice and have a high-end finish. I have purchased the 3DK MAK because of your reviews about it. You are the one that put 3DK on the "radar for me. I look forward to using the 3DK MAK soon. Thank you and God bless
Nice review, thank you! I have a bunch of knives, some identical to or others close to these. On the CRK, I’ll have to look closer at the Pacific. I have both the large and small Green Beret “Yarborough” models with combo edges, but agree the Pacific has a better bushcraft profile. Agree on the ESEE 4 and 6 as well, great knives. I also have an ESEE 5 beast, but it’s a heavy knife. On the Gerber, I have a 20 year old Gerber Harsey knife made for UDT work with serrations on the top and bottom of the blade. It has a similar profile to the LMF with a polymer guard, slightly pointier blade, but seems stronger than the LMF II with a solid very strong synthetic handle. No complaints so far. On the BRK Bravo I skipped the 1 and went straight to the 1.5 rampless in S45VN. A little like the ESEE 6 profile. Now that I see your comments I’m missing the ramp a bit, but it’s easy to lay your finger flat on the spine which I like. By the way, Bark River was around for many years with a ton of models before the Bravo 1, but agree it has become kind of the iconic BR. I have nearly 50 of their earlier models, some of which are excellent, most of those in A2. One great (discontinued) knife that is a great performer is the Buck 245 “Matt Would Go” model with finger grooved camo micarta in 5160, that thing is super sharp, and very comfortable. Other favorites are the Busse Team Gemini Light Brigade which is like the ultimate combat knife to me, and if you’re going to mention the nice BK18 you have to plug the BK16 as well. Also the Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter in S30V is a great knife, you just need to upgrade the crappy sheath. I got a Kydex scout sheath on eBay, and ROG makes the ultimate formed leather sheath with dangler and fire steel loop. Finally, check out Fallkniven. The A1 is the ultimate big knife, and I have an old one without the upgraded steel and handle, still seems super strong. The newer S1 Forest knife is just over 5”. It’s a great blade, but some people find the handle a little thin. An almost twin of the S1 is the awesome NL4 Frey with a more comfortable stacked leather handle, and my favorite “small” 4” knife is the NL5 Idun. A work of art. One thing, serrations are a bit of a PITA in the field as it’s a separate sharpening step, but they’re super easy to sharpen with a small tapered pocket diamond sharpener. Not a big deal, and if you’re cutting heavy cordage you’ll be glad to have them on the edge. The only serrations which require a special tool are the Cold Steel micro serrations, and Lansky sells a small dog bone sharpener to handle those. Thanks again. Love your setup for the Pacific, and will need to work on that, and thanks also for the idea of the 18 degree profile on the ESEE’s. 👍
Love Bark River... I just never liked their handles. I have issues with the smoothness of the handle and I have never been high upon bolted on handles. If it had textured material (rough burlap micarta, G 10, etc) I would buy them until I needed a second mortgage.
On the Gerber strong arm. 420hc is quite stainless and is also really tough. Probably a better option than 1095 in almost all regards. Check out knife steel nerds steel ranking he has tested a huge amount of steels and 420hc definitely has a place.
I agree, and that’s why the Prodigy made the cut. Please know that to be included on the list is quite good. I have close to 60 knives to pick from so it has to really stand out even if it places low
I love your videos, keep up the good work! Just want to advice you to take a look at the TRC Apocalypse against the CRK. The TRC, especially in Europe, is more available then the CRK and I think it's at least similar in performance and quality.
First time the Algorithm (long may it reign) recommended you to me. Love the presentation and information, but mostly I love the fact that this channel is a window into an alternate dimension, wherein a young John Malkovich provides tips and opinions on survival techniques and equipment❤. By all means, keep 'em coming.👍👍👍 Edit: Bought the Ka Bar BK18 off your review (and some research of my own). Due in next week.🤞
Fighters (not survival/bushcraft) knives need to be light weight, but strong, and for me a 6 inch blade length ideal - IMO. Also, having a trainer (not sharpened blade) of the same knife is a plus. While serving with 2/75 Rangers, my first knife was a Gerber Mark 1 boot knife, I later replaced it with a Busse Mr MO-FO. I will also recommend to anyone interested in a fighter is the handle/scale construction and materials used, it MUST be grippy!
First of all, you do realize that "Tactical" means you might have to make some one alive, into some one not alive? Yes I'm trying to be gentle. So to that end, the KA-BAR USMC Combat & Utility knife, yes it says it right on the box that mine came in back in the early 80's. It can do all knife tasks. I do not consider chopping and splitting wood a job for a knife. As for the "Tactical side" It is well proven. Next would be my Cold Steel Recon Tanto, in Carbon V steel, another knife that I bought back in the early 80's. And if I had to, it is heavy enough to do some light chopping. And lastly, my brand new Cold Steel SRK, in SK-5 steel. After all it is used by Navy Seals during their BUD's training. Oh, I almost forgot my Buck 119 Special, since some Pilots during the Vietnam War carried them, and I do love mine. I think that's about it for what I have that I would consider Survival/Tactical. Although I do have some where in the neighborhood of 40 knives. Yes, I am a knife collecting addict :)
In an actual survival situation, cost would be of no concern to the one trying to survive, the best performance is all that would matter. Performance/quality don't necessarily equate to higher price, but it probably does.
4:26 It's a shame that you were not able to review THE ULTIMATE combat/survival benchmark knife. I speak, of course, of the Cold Steel Trail Master San Mai III, in convex grind. This is the blade against which all others can be measured. Well, you did say BIG knives, and then showed little brothers/cousins/friends! This is the class of knives which started mainly with the whole Bowie Knife era, and are still very popular today. Why not do a review of one?
@@bbtb785 Why the frowny face? When Cold Steel wanted a manufacturer to produce their design they set certain quality standards for manufacturers. Guess what? They couldn't find any that could outperform the Japanese producer they chose! So why are you not happy with the knives being made by one of the best in the world? [ Another producer might have been Falkniven, but they are a major competitor! ] So, I'd like to understand your :( better. Thanks
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Please brother say: "Alright boys and girls". I need to hear that to get through my day. :)
Great video brother thanks for sharing 👍
The Gerber is a combat knife as that it works great . I personally like the ergonomic on the Gerber. I love their American built.
50 years ago, my 'combat survival' knife was a Victorinox slip joint. No fix blade issues.
Really. The idea of carrying a fighting knife when weight is a real thing, smaller utility knives seem more realistic and useful for almost every application. I mean in the infantry, folding e-tools and bayonets are common issue for modern combat survival scenarios. Realistically speaking though, a smaller Swiss Army Knife is the probably perfect addition for any kit.
My additional suggestions.
4 inch blade range. I have multiple Esse4 and Fallkniven F1. Carry in horizontal, behind the back sheaths.
6 inch blade. J.P. Peltonen. Have two. Developed by an officer in the Army of Finland. Imagine a Mora type knife on steroids with a thick blade.
Other thoughts. The carry sheath can be critical.
Current version of US Airforce survival knife which is the old 499 updated. Cut off the top rubber guard, sharpen with say a Worksharp.
Current version of the old WW2 Ka-bar Navy knife. The sheath is upgraded to modern materials.
Ontario Mark 2 knife.
Your two favorite knives are beyond my budget . . . and I have the skills to modify less expensive knives. The only reason that I have Fallkniven A1 knives is because I was able to obtain them below dealer prices.
Great vids, big fan
Glad to hear it!
Sir, thank you for your review. I know that you cannot go wrong with the ESEE knives. The Bark River knives are very nice and have a high-end finish. I have purchased the 3DK MAK because of your reviews about it. You are the one that put 3DK on the "radar for me. I look forward to using the 3DK MAK soon. Thank you and God bless
Please obtain a TOPS Apache Falcon, it may give your CRK Pacific and ESEE 6 a challenge. Plus a 7 Rattles Busch Craft Kydex sheath.
Nice review, thank you! I have a bunch of knives, some identical to or others close to these. On the CRK, I’ll have to look closer at the Pacific. I have both the large and small Green Beret “Yarborough” models with combo edges, but agree the Pacific has a better bushcraft profile. Agree on the ESEE 4 and 6 as well, great knives. I also have an ESEE 5 beast, but it’s a heavy knife. On the Gerber, I have a 20 year old Gerber Harsey knife made for UDT work with serrations on the top and bottom of the blade. It has a similar profile to the LMF with a polymer guard, slightly pointier blade, but seems stronger than the LMF II with a solid very strong synthetic handle. No complaints so far.
On the BRK Bravo I skipped the 1 and went straight to the 1.5 rampless in S45VN. A little like the ESEE 6 profile. Now that I see your comments I’m missing the ramp a bit, but it’s easy to lay your finger flat on the spine which I like. By the way, Bark River was around for many years with a ton of models before the Bravo 1, but agree it has become kind of the iconic BR. I have nearly 50 of their earlier models, some of which are excellent, most of those in A2.
One great (discontinued) knife that is a great performer is the Buck 245 “Matt Would Go” model with finger grooved camo micarta in 5160, that thing is super sharp, and very comfortable. Other favorites are the Busse Team Gemini Light Brigade which is like the ultimate combat knife to me, and if you’re going to mention the nice BK18 you have to plug the BK16 as well. Also the Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter in S30V is a great knife, you just need to upgrade the crappy sheath. I got a Kydex scout sheath on eBay, and ROG makes the ultimate formed leather sheath with dangler and fire steel loop.
Finally, check out Fallkniven. The A1 is the ultimate big knife, and I have an old one without the upgraded steel and handle, still seems super strong. The newer S1 Forest knife is just over 5”. It’s a great blade, but some people find the handle a little thin. An almost twin of the S1 is the awesome NL4 Frey with a more comfortable stacked leather handle, and my favorite “small” 4” knife is the NL5 Idun. A work of art.
One thing, serrations are a bit of a PITA in the field as it’s a separate sharpening step, but they’re super easy to sharpen with a small tapered pocket diamond sharpener. Not a big deal, and if you’re cutting heavy cordage you’ll be glad to have them on the edge. The only serrations which require a special tool are the Cold Steel micro serrations, and Lansky sells a small dog bone sharpener to handle those.
Thanks again. Love your setup for the Pacific, and will need to work on that, and thanks also for the idea of the 18 degree profile on the ESEE’s. 👍
That’s for this awesome comment and feedback. Don’t know how I missed it
Nice content & knife collection! Love my ESSE 6 & PR4. Good video 🙏🏿🇺🇸🪓
Have you seen the Hogue 7” and 5” knives. I just got one and like it. Cuts strawberries great. It’s A2 steel which I’m not really familiar with.
Awesome video again my dude!!! Hopefully you'll get to review the esse 4 in s35vn sometime soon.
Look into trying out the William Collins WCSK for a one knife choice that covers Survival and Combat
Nice collection. :)
Love Bark River... I just never liked their handles. I have issues with the smoothness of the handle and I have never been high upon bolted on handles.
If it had textured material (rough burlap micarta, G 10, etc) I would buy them until I needed a second mortgage.
Totally agree. I wrapped my Bravo handle with tennis racket tape. Makes a huge difference to the grip.
A rougher micarta would definitely help
@@MB-jg4tr Agreed.
Do you have any experience with the 5.11 Peacemaker knife??
On the Gerber strong arm. 420hc is quite stainless and is also really tough. Probably a better option than 1095 in almost all regards. Check out knife steel nerds steel ranking he has tested a huge amount of steels and 420hc definitely has a place.
I agree, and that’s why the Prodigy made the cut. Please know that to be included on the list is quite good. I have close to 60 knives to pick from so it has to really stand out even if it places low
Nice line up. The military style knives tend to be good and solid.
This is very true
LionSteel T5, CS dropforged survivalist.
I love your videos, keep up the good work! Just want to advice you to take a look at the TRC Apocalypse against the CRK. The TRC, especially in Europe, is more available then the CRK and I think it's at least similar in performance and quality.
I do love the TRC Apocalypse! It’s such a cool blade. One day I’ll have to pick it yp
Alpenlore USA endorses ALASKAN FRONTIER
Thank you!!! I appreciate you the endorsement from a legend!
First time the Algorithm (long may it reign) recommended you to me. Love the presentation and information, but mostly I love the fact that this channel is a window into an alternate dimension, wherein a young John Malkovich provides tips and opinions on survival techniques and equipment❤. By all means, keep 'em coming.👍👍👍
Edit: Bought the Ka Bar BK18 off your review (and some research of my own). Due in next week.🤞
Appreciate the vote of confidence
Fighters (not survival/bushcraft) knives need to be light weight, but strong, and for me a 6 inch blade length ideal - IMO.
Also, having a trainer (not sharpened blade) of the same knife is a plus.
While serving with 2/75 Rangers, my first knife was a Gerber Mark 1 boot knife, I later replaced it with a Busse Mr MO-FO.
I will also recommend to anyone interested in a fighter is the handle/scale construction and materials used, it MUST be grippy!
These are good points
First of all, you do realize that "Tactical" means you might have to make some one alive, into some one not alive? Yes I'm trying to be gentle. So to that end, the KA-BAR USMC Combat & Utility knife, yes it says it right on the box that mine came in back in the early 80's. It can do all knife tasks. I do not consider chopping and splitting wood a job for a knife. As for the "Tactical side" It is well proven. Next would be my Cold Steel Recon Tanto, in Carbon V steel, another knife that I bought back in the early 80's. And if I had to, it is heavy enough to do some light chopping. And lastly, my brand new Cold Steel SRK, in SK-5 steel. After all it is used by Navy Seals during their BUD's training. Oh, I almost forgot my Buck 119 Special, since some Pilots during the Vietnam War carried them, and I do love mine. I think that's about it for what I have that I would consider Survival/Tactical. Although I do have some where in the neighborhood of 40 knives. Yes, I am a knife collecting addict :)
I Will Use My Ozark Trail Knives.
In an actual survival situation, cost would be of no concern to the one trying to survive, the best performance is all that would matter. Performance/quality don't necessarily equate to higher price, but it probably does.
That first knife is 850 aud tf and you had to mod it
Cool
4:26 It's a shame that you were not able to review THE ULTIMATE combat/survival benchmark knife. I speak, of course, of the Cold Steel Trail Master San Mai III, in convex grind. This is the blade against which all others can be measured. Well, you did say BIG knives, and then showed little brothers/cousins/friends! This is the class of knives which started mainly with the whole Bowie Knife era, and are still very popular today.
Why not do a review of one?
Made in Japan :(
@@bbtb785 Why the frowny face? When Cold Steel wanted a manufacturer to produce their design they set certain quality standards for manufacturers. Guess what? They couldn't find any that could outperform the Japanese producer they chose! So why are you not happy with the knives being made by one of the best in the world?
[ Another producer might have been Falkniven, but they are a major competitor! ]
So, I'd like to understand your :( better.
Thanks
I prefer knives that are made in the United States; Buck, Esse, Benchmade,Bear & Son's...that's all.
@@bbtb785 Ahhh. Fair enough. Being in the UK I tend to forget about that.