This guy does the absolute best knife reviews by far. So comprehensive, so well spoken, smooth flowing and easy to listen to. Definitely the right guy for the job.
Older guy here that has thought about the function of knives for more decades than I want to think about. Here are my thoughts. A true survival knife is the difference between life and death. You need to rely on it when people are nowhere to be found. If your healthy you need it, if you’re injured you need it more. I have two Fallkniven knives that I can trust. Today however, they are too expensive even if you want to get the best. I would buy an Esse or other brand. You need two survival knives. First a large blade that you can make a spear out of, hack, BATON or chop. A second small blade to skin, carve, clean and do detail work. A large knife is annoying when carried on your belt. Keep it on or in your pack. Same with the small blade. Weight, don’t worry about it. They must not fail you. Save weight with other items. Why did I buy Fallkniven A1? Because the steel is not brittle. Many blades are. Under extreme load the blade will snap. Examples . . . 1) Pulling your entire body weight on the blade when pulling yourself up from a slope. 2) using the knife as a step and standing on it to elevate yourself after you have fallen down a slope. If you can’t get up and out, you die. I learned this years ago and nobody talks about using a knife in this fashion on UA-cam. If you have fallen down a steep slope your knife may be the only way to elevate yourself. Most people don’t need a survival knife. I hope some of you find my opinions to be of value or at least entertaining. Oh yes, don’t forget the “cool” factor. You may not need a survival knife, but having one (or more) is very cool. D
Older guy here reading your comment and I agree. To the statement about no one standing in knives on UA-cam , this guy mayor fuglycool tests knives and actually does stand on them after hammering them into a board. He also does pull-ups with the blades. He is kind of fun to watch also. Just FYI
You are absolutely correct. I have carried a knife since 1967. I’ve been depending on my knife (many different ones over the years) for over 45 years. Countless days, weeks, and even months at a time in the bush have taught me how valuable life is, and how much that life depends on a good blade. With the right knowledge and skills, you can make do in the field with just about any kind of junk that’s available...except for your knife. Get a good one, your life may well depend on it some day. 👍🏻
younger guy here reading your comment and thinking wow, this guy is apparently old and yet he knows little about philosophy of use of survival knives and better yet uses obscure and unlikely examples of knife usage to justify his advice on carry options. Cost is an important issue in deciding what tool to go with. I will, for better relation use two old age sayings which should be better understood by the oldage viewers..... BUY CHEAP BUY TWICE and YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. to compare esee to a falkniven is Ludacris, for one esse is like mass produced with machines and lower quality materials, whereas the falkniven is made from premium high technology materials, superstainless steels with lamination and hand finished to create a premium quality and time tested product. Blade geometry is another big consideration old folks, the esse usually have cheap and dirty full-flat (crap grinds), suited to more slicing uses, whereas the falkniven has a quality convex grind which is the best of the best for wood working bushcraft.The grind is literally designed to bite and split the wood fibres in the most efficient way possible. however rant aside i can also shed some old timer knowledge which may well overwrite my above opinions....... THE BEST KNIFE IS THE ONE YOU HAVE ON YOU WHEN YOU NEED IT MOST. and BIG KNIVES CAN DO ALL THE TASKS OF A LITTLE KNIFE BUT A LITTLE KNIFE CANT DO THE TASKS OF A BIG KNIFE. all in all its just user preference and consumer economic status. you get what you can afford but with it being an all-important useful and longlasting implement for survival such as a blade, perhaps one should go above and beyond their paygrade and get something which is proven.
Dude look into forming kydex. Its actually pretty easy, there are tons of videos on yt. It can be noisy in the field but you can take once finished to an upholstery shop and have them fab a cover if thats an issue. Honestly i take into account the sheath when selecting to try and avoid it all together. Some knives are worth it though.
Why would you accept the premise that after buying a knife, you will find it necessary to spend $50 to $150 for a decent sheath, when it is the responsibility of the knife maker to supply a quality sheath with his knife? If the knife does not come with a well designed sheath, then you might want to re-evaluate the quality of that knife.
@Pete I agree that sounds a bit pricy but perhaps this leather shop dude is a real pro and using the best quality veg tanned, full grain leather. Hand stitched, wet molded, burnished edges, etc all take some time, elbow grease, and pricy tools. Given china’s aptitude for knocking off designs and sourcing cheap labor/materials, it can be hard to swallow prices for American handmade goods, but “buy nice or buy twice” and “ you get what you pay for” usually ring true for me. If you are good at hanging onto your possessions, and maybe want to pass your blade down as an heirloom, I think $200 - $250 for a reliable and sexy knife and sheath could be worthwhile.. it’s all relative I suppose. Always nice to support the local American artisans when possible.
You don't want to field dress a big game animal with a folding knife, all the blood/fat/gunk gets into to knife and drys, which really messes up the mechanics of the folder...( 37 years hunting and living in alaska )
An old hunter once told me that while field dressing a boar he forgot to bring his skinner and had to use an old slipjoint knife, the damn thing broke and nearly took his fingers off, he finished the job with his hatchet, which he admitted he should have used in the first place.
When I passed my NYS Jr Hunter course 72 years ago I bought a 6" straight blade boning knife from a junk shop for $0.40. I cleaned it up. My buddies father was a manager in the E-J Shoe Company factory. He had a worker make a leather sheath to fit it. I soaked the sheath in neatsfoot oil and wiped it dry on my father's recommendation. I still have and use both knife and sheath
Awesome, obviously quality of people and products had gone down tremendously. Thanks for your comment. Nothing makes a knife cooler than the blood and sweat of your ancestors and the pride of passing it along.
I have several survival knives and have used many brands but my favorite for over 45yrs is still the USMC issued Ka-Bar. It has a strong blade, suitable for any type field work, from cooking to batoning and I absolutely love the feel of the leather grip. While it does take a little more maintenance than Stainless Steel it will last several lifetimes if properly cared for.
I've seen several of them and also pilot survival knives and a Case bowie break when thrown by Navy SEALs into trees for practice. They are all the same steel and it is too brittle to count on as a survival knife. It has never survived an arctic survival course for that matter either. A specific survival knife is one you may have to count on not for three days or so, but for the rest of your life. The military contractor who made it is usually the lowest bidder who proves he can provide an item the govt wants. Not always, but usually. Those knives that broke incidentally were always broken at the junction of the handle and the blade, right at the guard.
I am a self-defense instructor and 76 years old. I am also a Prepper. When the people got stupid and began buying and hoarding all the toilet paper, is when I went to my prepping supplies. I have a wife with many severe medical problems so we are staying at home. As for the knives, I find some or all of these knives above to be a little too expensive. Also, I would never purchase a pocket knife with out part of it being serrated. Just the way I feel. Sometimes serrations come in handy. But it's a personal choice.
Behind you by 6 years and have supplies for earthquakes. No problem at all when the stupid people came out and emptied the stores of toilet paper, pasta, rice, flour, sugar, etc. Just went to the earthquake supplies that we use and replace on a rotating basis. I have asthma and my wife is a cancer survivor so we are also staying at home. I agree some of the knives shown are a little to expensive for me. (Would love a Falkniven but never pulled the trigger.) I have several Beckers, K-Bars, and Esees acquired over the years (many from KnifeCenter) when they were less expensive. All made in the USA, except for a couple of Moras. I will not buy a knife from China for any reason. Taiwan and Japan are o.k. If no comparable American made knife. I agree with you wholeheartedly about serrated blades. I carry a Spyderco Manix II folding knife daily along with two mini-multi tools and it is amazing how often I use them.
I got my bark river grizzly cub in 3v and love it. But had to sell 2 knives t buy it... I gotta check out Cold Steel again, I remember ppl warning me against buying them years back saying the QC was brutal. Obviously must have changed.
@@Kman31ca it has. Felt same way for yrs do steered clear of anything Cold Steel and stick with brands I knew and trusted like Benchmade, Spyderco, Tops, etc..
@@jasona.palmer6993 Yeeeah. But masculinity isn't an excuse for immaturity. Look at the Rock, or Denzel Washington, or James Bond, very masculine, but also have their shiz together. Keep your shiz together on camera. Men can do that.
@@ryaandnice The Rock is a casual and just keeps it low, there is nothing masculine about keeping it low, it's just a preference and choice of the pros/cons given in doing so. Also, there is nothing masculine about having body-issues and using steroids.. Some of the people you referred to, might have childhood trauma and express it in the way you described, but most don't. Some people just have fun, don't be a "wanna-be psychologist" on the internet mate
I’d go for the BK-7. Good for combat. Good for battoning, and for everyday camp knife, I’d take the BK-Harpoon. Currently I have two set-ups. 1) Combat: Fixed blade: Gerber LHR Folder: Tops CQT 711 S Tanto 2) Survival: Fixed blade: BK-9 Folder: Fox CQT 711 regular blade Great pairing for different purposes.
I'm a poor old man on a fixed income. $190.00 is out of the question for me. Guess I'll just have to stick with my Old Hickory. It's worked for me for decades. You did show a lot of knife "candy" though. Great video.
He has a few designs out there. His Pilgrim LT and Skipjack fixed blade pocket knife are up on KnifeCenter's website. His Lapwing and Canteen Knife are currently only available on his site, but will be returning to the KnifeCenter when the next batches are made. Cheers, Ian!
Of all the ones I've seen the pilgrim is definitely my favorite. I almost pulled the trigger on one. Ended up getting the LT Wright GNS in 3V last minute.
I've had the BK7 for almost 20 years. Here's what I would change: 1) it needs a better choil, but this can be fixed with a grinder 2) it needs a better sheath. I've got the original green one and it sucks more than the newer black one, which also sorta sucks. This can be fixed with a custom sheath, it seems lots of custom sheath makers specialize in the BK7. 3) It would be nice to have a divot in the handle for holding a bow drill bit. I suppose this can also be fixed with a drill or something. Here's what I wouldn't change: 1) the fact that it's a BK7. It just feels so right in the hand.
BK7 is a tank. It's a little heavy if you're carrying a full survival pack but not to the point of it being a liability, and if you're just taking it camping or in your vehicle for when you need it. A Great Survival/Combat knife.
You know I am 66. I have been stuck out a few times and could not make it back. One thing for me that I have found; a big knife can do pretty much everything a small knife can do but a small knife cannot do everything a large knife can do. I like you design but make a full grown version too.
Cold steel G.I. Tanto, good size, versatile, not too heavy, great sheath, you can beat the crap out of it and easy to sharpen. Oh... and it's super affordable.
Thanks David for the excellent videos. I am in the genesis of my knife hobby. I have studied Martial Arts my entire life. I watch your videos and I base a lot of my blade purchases on the reviews you present David in a very informative and educational way. I have learned so much about the world of Blades from you. I would highly recommend anyone who is looking to purchase a new blade to watch a review of yours to learn as much as you can about that particular blade. Thank you again David. Jimmy from the mountains of Northern California.
I make a set of ESEE-6 and MORAKNIV-Robust . I use them Horizontally on my belt in the same Sheath Left/Right deploy . I love the combo , ofcourse i did few Upgrades on both Blades for better Performance .
I really like David bringing out his own personal knife, showing the wear tear on that blade. Makes it less of a gamble to purchase, via the web, when you see him bring in something he actually uses!
Good review! Personally, I prefer two knives. A small wood carving knife plus a 6-7" blade knife. That way you also have a back up if you break or lose one. Any serious wood carving requires a special knife.
Yeah I definitely must agree with that approach. It's not too much to ask to carry two knives really, in which case you can choose options more ideally suited to specific purposes rather than an "all-rounder".
Great Video! I just added the Marine Fighting Knife Ka Bar and the Ka Bar Short Serrated (5.25 Inch) in all black. The ones you showed here looked great too.
David, thanks yet again for a factual comprehensive & honest evaluation of this series. Over all other commentators, I much prefer & enjoy your impeccable & flawless testimony. If I decide to order a blade online, your company is almost always the one that I choose. Best regards, & keep up the good work!!! Stay safe, Barry K. Baldwin
I am very impressed with these presentations. Good factual info, qualified opinions, and an eay, watchable and listenable format. I've dealt with the Knife Center and they have been uniformly well satisfied.
I have had the BK7 for several years now, and It has been a fantastic knife. The steel is something special. I was going to grind off the thumb ramp, but it has actually been great. I added a choil for detail work, and I added micarta handles.
Have you dealt with the sheath or found a good custom maker? I've got the original, original sheath and I'm embarrased to even use that, hear the new one's not that much better.
I ran my Cold Steel Recon carbon v steel for over 20years. Beat the hell out of that knife. I retired it i favor of my Tops operator7 and my Tops Skull crusher. Despite what people say about those knives, absolutely bomb proof. The skull crusher will process wood all day long. I also daily carry a Tops police interceptor, fixed blade and the Fox/Tops collaboration 4.5inch tanto folder. See a pattern lol. I have , Zero Tolerance, Sog , Cold Steel. All great knives, I just took to those Tops knives for some reason.
As a former Camillus Cutlery employee, the BK&T knives are awesome. As are Cold Steel. Cold Steel used to have a quality guy full time in the plant full time overseeing processes.
The best survival knife you can own , is the one you actually have on you when you finally figure out you are in a survival situation , for me it was a 4in old timer pocketknife.
Schrade SCHF 9. It's cheap and built like a tank. I bought a couple, one to use the crap out of and one for a backup. I had mine for 4 years and put it through some jaw dropping, hellacious use. This includes battoning with a rock. It looks a little tired but it still works great. You can't go wrong.
All great advice. Loved every bit of it. Very professional. Now to add my (after tax) two cents worth. Former infantryman and during my undergrad summers, I taught Air Crew Survival for the military. The best survival knife? It’s the one you have ON Hand! Ha ha ha ha Honestly, that survival attitude is what gets everyone through. Keep up the good work, brothers!! Cheers
Agreed with the best is the one you have on hand! That is why we tried to stick with suggestions that wouldn't be too annoying to carry. Thank you for your service!
Infantryman here as well. 10 yrs and tour later and my #1 knife that saved my ass and STILL in amazing shape to this day would be my Benchmade Nimravus Black class fixed blade. Not super premium steel yet 154CM with G10 scales and Kydex/Carbon Fiber sheath. Actually haven't seen a sheath of this quality since buying this and my Black class Ares folder in '97
I think all of those knives are great, the Becker would be my favorite. I picked up a Kershaw withe a very fast blade assist for $17 bucks about 10 yrs. ago. carry it every day. Although I wouldn't consider it a survival knife it would surly do in a pinch. Opens as fast as an auto, blade hold an edge and sharpens in a few strokes. It does every ting that I have needed in a carry folder, and the price was a steel.
I've had my eyes on that SRK-C for a while as an all-purpose survival knife. The only other knife I was considering was the Strongarm, but I've had too many bad experiences with gerber to go back to them.
I've found that unless you're in the pacific northwest, carbon blades do just fine without oil. Just wipe it on your pant leg if it's been exposed to moisture. Ill notice slight discoloration beginning to form but it gets removed while passing through wood.
Fixed Blade: Bark River Bravo 1.25 in CPM 3V Folder: Cold Steel SR1 Lite, Cold Steel Rajah II in AUS-10A, Cold Steel Voyager XL Tanto in AUS-10A, Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter in S35VN
David, man, that Pilgrim of yours is a beaut! Definitely the best knife on the table... for me, at least. I'm a sucker for simplicity, versatility and reliability. :)
@@knifecenter Dammit -DCA!. I thought I was done with grail knives for a while.. The longer I studied the geometry and craft.. Yeah that Pilgrim's my knife. Wish me luck with Canadian exchange rate at that price. Another awesome Update/Review man. Grabbed a Gerber Strong arm for a work beater recently after wearing out all folder systems, she's solid but the sheath has been nothing but a hassle especially below 0 degrees C. Serious contraction. Good point about top guards. Does get in the way for detail work.
Good over all job, but....at the end of the day, straight blade rules, sure a 4" blade is good but....a 6 or 7 is ideal for basic handling if you're in a self defense situation. This video is spot on brother. My idea knife is one I can pry with, cut with, and basically do whatever I ask it to do. I carry a Buck knife. So far it does anything I ask
The AD-10 is great. I had the 4-Max, and it was an absolute beast. It was SOOO big I decided it wasn't really practical, so I traded it for a Kizer Laconico and a Molon Labe version of a Rexford Zero Tolerance to a kid who REALLY wanted a 4-Max. I've handled an AD-10, but I haven't bought one yet. For now my Ultimate Hunter is tough enough.
I carry a heavily modified Cold Steel Trailmaster and an RMJ tactical Shrike as my survival tools, in a Galco gunleather underarm carry rig. That way they don't weigh down my belt, they fit under my pack and I can still paddle my canoe effectively. Also, I can sit down without my knife and tomahawk getting in the way! Underarm carry is great, if you have the right build for it.
I love all of my ESEE knives. Including my ESEE 6. Though I do prefer the ESEE 5 over it. Biggest negative is that the ESEE logo is carved out of the otherwise excellent black coating on the blade. Which to me, makes no sense. That logo is not tiny. And I've seen ESEE knives rust where the logo was carved out of the finish. Not the main reason, but one reason I prefer my 5 over my 6 is because my 5 has the Desert Tan coating instead of the Black. Tan coating with black lettering on the logo. No exposed metal logo carved from the black coating itself.
I personally hate knives with coated blades for several reasons like once it's started to wear off there's NO stopping it or fixing it yourself unlike a polished blade or even stonewashed for example. The only company I'm aware of that will recoat the blade back to factory specs are Benchmade, but at a cost!
I got a CS GI Tanto years ago just bc it cost $25 at the time and it’s a solid knife. I was surprised how durable it was especially for the price. I used it for chopping and everything
I think the Cold Steel Chaos series knives deserve to be in this lineup. And I wouldn't be too concerned about "raised eyebrows" either, especially out in the bush....
My wife bought me the Schrade SCHF1 for Christmas (she saw bushcraft & survival knife in the title and figured it's awesome as you can store stuff in the handle. It's the thought that counts 😉 ) I have a few Schrades (SCHF 26 & 36) that have been used and abused and are still going strong, but I was dubious about this one. I started taking it with me when hiking and camping to test it and I have to admit that I purposefully abused it a lot more than I would normally while just using a knife for general bushcraft and camping. In fact I beat the life out of it and I was pleasantly surprised by how well it did. While it's anything but perfect, it can batton, carve feather sticks and even handle basic food prep. I put a fire and water purification kit in the handle and it stays in my pack as a backup knife option.
I have the Becker BK-7 and it's an excellent heavy duty survival knife. However the plastic scales that come on the knife are somewhat smooth in texture and become quite slippery if your hands get wet or sweaty. I had to wrap the handle with hockey tape to stop it from slipping in my hands. I eventually replaced the plastic with canvas micarta scales.
Get a low grit sandpaper, and start putting down some sratches to those plastic handles. You'will be suprised, how good you can make them feel. They can come so close to micarta or G10 feel, that you couldn't tell the dfference with closed eyes. Add on that, the extra grip and the fact, that you won't sucrifice any comfort for all that, neither any weight and balance issues, a real micarta or G10 handle could provide.
The knife you helped designed is high on my list only because it has a bushcraft look, in fact it's the perfect type knife as all others start to become high maintenance
When it comes to this topic a realistic scenario to plan for is key in my view. Try switching the word "survival" with "emergency" and see what that brings to your mind.
It’s a tad inexplicable why sharpening tools are not listed/mentioned as companions. It’s way inexplicable when a lot of websites recommend/do batoning. I carried a USAF pilot survival (5 in Ontario) knife on active duty for 3 years, in addition to an 7 in Ontario “KABAR”
My current knife collection: Gerber Strongarm Spyderco Dragonfly 2 Spyderco Para 3 Kershaw Knockout Coldsteel AD10 RMJ Tactical Sparrow (most recent purchase) My favorite knife from this group is the Coldsteel AD10. I just can't put it down. Its basically my fidget spinner, which also tends to make bystanders nervous. I've gone through 2 resharpenings in a year. I've broken the tip on my Spyderco Para 3, which they repaired for free minus the cost of shipping. My Dragonfly 2 is my package opener. The Spyderco knives I have are a bit light for anything serious. I'll likely start carrying my RMJ Tactical Sparrow as a daily soon.
Great show, excellent descriptions, great presence and presentation, no BS, straight to the point, and very useful information. Thanks and keep up the great work!
In Oklahoma it is open carry no license required. I open carry my 357 S&W. I conceal a Beretta 380. And I open carry a big Bowie buck knife with a switchblade in my pocket.
EDC Gerber Icon, they are strong and sharp. They are cheap enough that if they get broken or lost no big heartache, but I have yet to loose or break one. I give them out as gifts all the time. I have one stashed everywhere. I have probably bought about 35 of them...... My woods knives are Becker BK and BK18
Toughest : British MOD issue survival knife. Light weight and cheap : Glock 78. Best but bulky : Ka-bar Kukri or Ka-Bar Combat Kukri. Traditionals : Old Air Force suvival knife / Ka-Bar issue fighting knives. General advice : Get a pure knife unencumbered by saw teeth, hollow handle, serrations etc. Carry a small survival kit on your belt or in a cargo pocket : 1) Piece of hacksaw blade or saber saw blade ( as saw or striker ) 2) String of dental floss ( many cordage uses ) 3) Piece of aluminum foil ( signeling mirror, bowl ) 4) Bic lighter wrapped in Gorilla Tape ( Gorilla tape uses : tinder, moleskin, bandage etc ) 5) Piece of inner tube rubber with cuts for fire starting. 6) Stub of pencil 7) piece of paper (messaging, tinder) 8) toilet paper : 5 sheets ( sanitary, tinder) 9) Emergency rain poncho ( part for improvised shelter ) 10) Scalpel, survival card tool or Victorinox Classic Swiss Army Knife ( mini cutting device ) 11) Bug repellant wipe ( make it yourself with napkin and reliant in Zip-loc snack bag 12) Coffee filter 13) Water purification tablets (2) 14) Unlubricated condom ( emergency canteen). 15) Optional: Emergency space blanket, chemical heat pad, Temporary sunglasses from your eye doctor, safety pin, food bar.
My EDC would probably also be my survival choice. I carry a Hinderer XM-24. Spanto blade shape is wonderful and I know from experience I can pry with it and not hurt the knife. Thing's built like a tank.
Good review. I think you might want to mention the features of the sheaths, most especially the Gerber Strongarm, which can be worn both vertically and horizontally - something very few knives can claim! If you didn't show any other sheath,....you ought to show this one because its one of the reasons I bought it.
I was on vacation and had to trek out of the middle of a swamp when my pirogue decided to take on water and sink (homemade). My backpack with some supplies saved but my full tang sheath knife was not to be found in my pack. All I had was my buck stockman. Freaking thing felled a sapling to make a whacking/walking stick and cut palmettos and ferns for shelter. Took me two days to walk/swim out of the damn place. It was during a weekday so I saw no boats riding around.
One note of caution on storing fire starters in a handle compartment. Do not store strike anywhere matches in it. Impacting the knife can ignite the matches causing the handle to explode.
The best true "survival" or working knife in an in country area I found and have used very hard is a driver's shark knife. I think it was a U.S. divers knife. Large hammer like pummel. Good large grip and guard. Heavy " thick" blade with half serations in the blade and a real sawback on the spline. The plastic sheath held up ( I taped mine to my slick with 100mph tape) and the rubber O ring retainer was easy and quick to get it out. Rubber and stainless, nothing to split, rust or rot. The stainless was an "ok" edge, but I could use a rock or cement to sharpen it back up.
David,great vid!! I carry (fixed blade) a Pathfinder knife shop mountain lion. Overall 10 inches, 5in blade,micarta handles , still has the forge markings. You can purchase the knife for $109.00(w/o sheath) guaranteed for life, ⅛ thick . 90 degree spine.You can purchase a friction leather sheath for $39.00 or kydex? It's replaced my Buck 639 as my primary carry(still an AWESOME knife). And for a folder,a Ranger 78 from Vitrinox.
How many of us have had a problem with rust on our knives? If I use it frequently, rust is never an issue. Even my fishing and boat knives are all carbon. Stainless is a pain to sharpen in the field, and they are usually more brittle. Carbon is king. Change my mind.
@Castle Bravo Try anyway. I started forging this year. I've got quite a few books to read, and I'm on quarantine. When I start making knives, whenever I can get back to it, I'm pretty sure I'll start with the pile of scrap i have on hand. I also have a few bars of 1095, and some d2. Do you know something about forging or using stainless knives? I'm genuinely curious. All the sources I've checked talk about stainless in hospital settings and salt water use. I'm getting the impression that I have no need to fool with stainless. So... tell me what you know. Again, I have nothing but time, as I'm on quarantine. Cheers
John Christopher probably depends on where you live, your biology, and how well you take care of your things. Some people’s chemistry just somehow creates rust. I had a shotgun for 20 years and not a speck of rust. Someone borrowed it, and it came back with rust. I could not get a Glock to rust, but I have seen pics of very rusty Glocks. I have no idea how that even happens. I have a Colt pistol made in 1927. No rust at all.
Great job! Clear, concise and interesting. Most important is that your delivery was helpful in understanding survival knife options with pros and cons. You may consider expanding your delivery agenda with showing the use of flints/fire starting with wood cutting- tree limbs, etc.
I have a Gerber Prodigy (if you can find one now) its a beast! Re-ground front of blade more like somewhat "saber" and batoned thru a 2 in sapling in a jiff with the flat end. One you may have mentioned is the Ontario Rat 5 or 7. Another very utilitarian and tough. Took the handle off the 5 and paracord'ed it with 3/16 in. green and then sprayed with satin polyurethane.....WHEW! long way to go for a great $79 knife. Stripped the black stuff off the blade too. Custom sheath.....you can beat the hell out of this one as well, not that you need to. sharp!
This guy does the absolute best knife reviews by far. So comprehensive, so well spoken, smooth flowing and easy to listen to. Definitely the right guy for the job.
What about the sheath tho??
Older guy here that has thought about the function of knives for more decades than I want to think about. Here are my thoughts. A true survival knife is the difference between life and death. You need to rely on it when people are nowhere to be found. If your healthy you need it, if you’re injured you need it more. I have two Fallkniven knives that I can trust. Today however, they are too expensive even if you want to get the best. I would buy an Esse or other brand. You need two survival knives. First a large blade that you can make a spear out of, hack, BATON or chop. A second small blade to skin, carve, clean and do detail work. A large knife is annoying when carried on your belt. Keep it on or in your pack. Same with the small blade. Weight, don’t worry about it. They must not fail you. Save weight with other items.
Why did I buy Fallkniven A1? Because the steel is not brittle. Many blades are. Under extreme load the blade will snap. Examples . . . 1) Pulling your entire body weight on the blade when pulling yourself up from a slope. 2) using the knife as a step and standing on it to elevate yourself after you have fallen down a slope. If you can’t get up and out, you die. I learned this years ago and nobody talks about using a knife in this fashion on UA-cam. If you have fallen down a steep slope your knife may be the only way to elevate yourself.
Most people don’t need a survival knife. I hope some of you find my opinions to be of value or at least entertaining.
Oh yes, don’t forget the “cool” factor. You may not need a survival knife, but having one (or more) is very cool.
D
❤️❤️❤️ GREAT INFO. AND GREAT JOB! THANKS FOR SHARING YOU'VE HELPED ME ALOT!🌹
Older guy here reading your comment and I agree. To the statement about no one standing in knives on UA-cam , this guy mayor fuglycool tests knives and actually does stand on them after hammering them into a board. He also does pull-ups with the blades. He is kind of fun to watch also. Just FYI
You are absolutely correct.
I have carried a knife since 1967.
I’ve been depending on my knife (many different ones over the years) for over 45 years.
Countless days, weeks, and even months at a time in the bush have taught me how valuable life is, and how much that life depends on a good blade.
With the right knowledge and skills, you can make do in the field with just about any kind of junk that’s available...except for your knife. Get a good one, your life may well depend on it some day.
👍🏻
@@gvines I bought a Gerber Strongarm after watching mayor fuglycools video on it.
younger guy here reading your comment and thinking wow, this guy is apparently old and yet he knows little about philosophy of use of survival knives and better yet uses obscure and unlikely examples of knife usage to justify his advice on carry options. Cost is an important issue in deciding what tool to go with. I will, for better relation use two old age sayings which should be better understood by the oldage viewers..... BUY CHEAP BUY TWICE and YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.
to compare esee to a falkniven is Ludacris, for one esse is like mass produced with machines and lower quality materials, whereas the falkniven is made from premium high technology materials, superstainless steels with lamination and hand finished to create a premium quality and time tested product. Blade geometry is another big consideration old folks, the esse usually have cheap and dirty full-flat (crap grinds), suited to more slicing uses, whereas the falkniven has a quality convex grind which is the best of the best for wood working bushcraft.The grind is literally designed to bite and split the wood fibres in the most efficient way possible. however rant aside i can also shed some old timer knowledge which may well overwrite my above opinions....... THE BEST KNIFE IS THE ONE YOU HAVE ON YOU WHEN YOU NEED IT MOST. and BIG KNIVES CAN DO ALL THE TASKS OF A LITTLE KNIFE BUT A LITTLE KNIFE CANT DO THE TASKS OF A BIG KNIFE. all in all its just user preference and consumer economic status. you get what you can afford but with it being an all-important useful and longlasting implement for survival such as a blade, perhaps one should go above and beyond their paygrade and get something which is proven.
Why wouldn't you show the sheaths?? Those are pretty dang important when it comes to carrying a fixed blade.
@Pete not totally. If i like the knife enough ill fab my own kydex sheath but I'd be lying if i said it wasn't a factor in my choice.
Dude look into forming kydex. Its actually pretty easy, there are tons of videos on yt. It can be noisy in the field but you can take once finished to an upholstery shop and have them fab a cover if thats an issue. Honestly i take into account the sheath when selecting to try and avoid it all together. Some knives are worth it though.
Why would you accept the premise that after buying a knife, you will find it necessary to spend $50 to $150 for a decent sheath, when it is the responsibility of the knife maker to supply a quality sheath with his knife?
If the knife does not come with a well designed sheath, then you might want to re-evaluate the quality of that knife.
@Pete I agree that sounds a bit pricy but perhaps this leather shop dude is a real pro and using the best quality veg tanned, full grain leather. Hand stitched, wet molded, burnished edges, etc all take some time, elbow grease, and pricy tools. Given china’s aptitude for knocking off designs and sourcing cheap labor/materials, it can be hard to swallow prices for American handmade goods, but “buy nice or buy twice” and “ you get what you pay for” usually ring true for me. If you are good at hanging onto your possessions, and maybe want to pass your blade down as an heirloom, I think $200 - $250 for a reliable and sexy knife and sheath could be worthwhile.. it’s all relative I suppose. Always nice to support the local American artisans when possible.
Dumb question!
You don't want to field dress a big game animal with a folding knife, all the blood/fat/gunk gets into to knife and drys, which really messes up the mechanics of the folder...( 37 years hunting and living in alaska )
@Michael Slaney 48 (STUDENT) Glad it worked for you. Not the first choice but better than a sharp rock...
Hello fellow Alaskan!
This is true.
True! It's also nice having orange grips so you can find it when you set it down while field dressing. Case makes some nice ones like that.
An old hunter once told me that while field dressing a boar he forgot to bring his skinner and had to use an old slipjoint knife, the damn thing broke and nearly took his fingers off, he finished the job with his hatchet, which he admitted he should have used in the first place.
When I passed my NYS Jr Hunter course 72 years ago I bought a 6" straight blade boning knife from a junk shop for $0.40. I cleaned it up. My buddies father was a manager in the E-J Shoe Company factory. He had a worker make a leather sheath to fit it. I soaked the sheath in neatsfoot oil and wiped it dry on my father's recommendation. I still have and use both knife and sheath
PJ Colella 8 €@&
How old are you? Not to be rude.
Great story PJ. Thanks for sharing.
@@privateparker5698 at least 72
Awesome, obviously quality of people and products had gone down tremendously. Thanks for your comment. Nothing makes a knife cooler than the blood and sweat of your ancestors and the pride of passing it along.
I have several survival knives and have used many brands but my favorite for over 45yrs is still the USMC issued Ka-Bar. It has a strong blade, suitable for any type field work, from cooking to batoning and I absolutely love the feel of the leather grip. While it does take a little more maintenance than Stainless Steel it will last several lifetimes if properly cared for.
Hear hear, the Ka-Bar would be my pick also.
I've seen several of them and also pilot survival knives and a Case bowie break when thrown by Navy SEALs into trees for practice. They are all the same steel and it is too brittle to count on as a survival knife. It has never survived an arctic survival course for that matter either. A specific survival knife is one you may have to count on not for three days or so, but for the rest of your life. The military contractor who made it is usually the lowest bidder who proves he can provide an item the govt wants. Not always, but usually. Those knives that broke incidentally were always broken at the junction of the handle and the blade, right at the guard.
I am a self-defense instructor and 76 years old. I am also a Prepper. When the people got stupid and began buying and hoarding all the toilet paper, is when I went to my prepping supplies. I have a wife with many severe medical problems so we are staying at home. As for the knives, I find some or all of these knives above to be a little too expensive. Also, I would never purchase a pocket knife with out part of it being serrated. Just the way I feel. Sometimes serrations come in handy. But it's a personal choice.
Behind you by 6 years and have supplies for earthquakes. No problem at all when the stupid people came out and emptied the stores of toilet paper, pasta, rice, flour, sugar, etc. Just went to the earthquake supplies that we use and replace on a rotating basis. I have asthma and my wife is a cancer survivor so we are also staying at home. I agree some of the knives shown are a little to expensive for me. (Would love a Falkniven but never pulled the trigger.) I have several Beckers, K-Bars, and Esees acquired over the years (many from KnifeCenter) when they were less expensive. All made in the USA, except for a couple of Moras. I will not buy a knife from China for any reason. Taiwan and Japan are o.k. If no comparable American made knife. I agree with you wholeheartedly about serrated blades. I carry a Spyderco Manix II folding knife daily along with two mini-multi tools and it is amazing how often I use them.
none of these are that expensive lmao you get what you pay for especially w knives
Been carrying the Gerber Strong Arm for over a year. LOVE IT!
I've got the Cold Steel SRK in 3V and I think it's pretty solid as a do-it-all.
Totally agree. I was so impressed with it, I had to get the 3V Recon Tanto too, just because... 😃
I do hope they come out with a 3V SRK-C, too.
I got my bark river grizzly cub in 3v and love it. But had to sell 2 knives t buy it... I gotta check out Cold Steel again, I remember ppl warning me against buying them years back saying the QC was brutal. Obviously must have changed.
Yeee reliable when I'm in the hood
@@Kman31ca it has. Felt same way for yrs do steered clear of anything Cold Steel and stick with brands I knew and trusted like Benchmade, Spyderco, Tops, etc..
@@souljayt8411 Ya ok kiddo. The "hood"😂
Thanks for a survival knife review that is not an alpha male yelling at the camera while taking out childhood trauma on a log. Appreciated.
LMAO 😂
@Paul Smith I accept that answer. Cheers.
@@jasona.palmer6993 Yeeeah. But masculinity isn't an excuse for immaturity. Look at the Rock, or Denzel Washington, or James Bond, very masculine, but also have their shiz together. Keep your shiz together on camera. Men can do that.
Dude 🤣🤣
@@ryaandnice The Rock is a casual and just keeps it low, there is nothing masculine about keeping it low, it's just a preference and choice of the pros/cons given in doing so. Also, there is nothing masculine about having body-issues and using steroids.. Some of the people you referred to, might have childhood trauma and express it in the way you described, but most don't. Some people just have fun, don't be a "wanna-be psychologist" on the internet mate
I’d go for the BK-7. Good for combat. Good for battoning, and for everyday camp knife, I’d take the BK-Harpoon.
Currently I have two set-ups.
1) Combat:
Fixed blade: Gerber LHR
Folder: Tops CQT 711 S Tanto
2) Survival:
Fixed blade: BK-9
Folder: Fox CQT 711 regular blade
Great pairing for different purposes.
Good setups! -DCA
I'm a poor old man on a fixed income. $190.00 is out of the question for me. Guess I'll just have to stick with my Old Hickory. It's worked for me for decades. You did show a lot of knife "candy" though. Great video.
It's great to see David design his own knife and it looks absolutely gorgeous. I hope he has some more coming our way.
He has a few designs out there. His Pilgrim LT and Skipjack fixed blade pocket knife are up on KnifeCenter's website. His Lapwing and Canteen Knife are currently only available on his site, but will be returning to the KnifeCenter when the next batches are made. Cheers, Ian!
Of all the ones I've seen the pilgrim is definitely my favorite. I almost pulled the trigger on one. Ended up getting the LT Wright GNS in 3V last minute.
@@knifecenter I didn't know he has more knfe designs, I'll definetely check them out!
I've got the Becker companion bk2, love it.
David, your knife design is amazing. Exactly what i look for in a knife design. Great work brother ✊
Thank you Nate! A lot of thought went into that design, and I'm glad you appreciate it good sir. -DCA
Morakniv Garberg should 100% be on this list, it's a far better option to the Strongarm for slightly more money.
We consider that a Bushcraft knife, rather than fitting into the "survival knife" genre. Will it work to help you survive though? Absolutely! -DCA
@@knifecenter Fair enough, but with the multi mount MOLLE sheath option it really sets itself up for bushcraft and tactical/survival style work.
Amongst these all, I prefer your design first, and Fallkniven S1 Pro will be my second choice.
Yeah. And why did he say they’re made in Japan?😂
I've had the BK7 for almost 20 years. Here's what I would change:
1) it needs a better choil, but this can be fixed with a grinder
2) it needs a better sheath. I've got the original green one and it sucks more than the newer black one, which also sorta sucks. This can be fixed with a custom sheath, it seems lots of custom sheath makers specialize in the BK7.
3) It would be nice to have a divot in the handle for holding a bow drill bit. I suppose this can also be fixed with a drill or something.
Here's what I wouldn't change:
1) the fact that it's a BK7. It just feels so right in the hand.
I know what you mean. I have a BK9 and love it.
BK7 is a tank. It's a little heavy if you're carrying a full survival pack but not to the point of it being a liability, and if you're just taking it camping or in your vehicle for when you need it. A Great Survival/Combat knife.
You know I am 66. I have been stuck out a few times and could not make it back. One thing for me that I have found; a big knife can do pretty much everything a small knife can do but a small knife cannot do everything a large knife can do. I like you design but make a full grown version too.
Agree!!!BK-9 had been my go to blade.
Correct, but with the right skill set and a little know how you can certainly still accomplish most large knife tasks with a solid 4 to 5 inch blade.
Cold steel G.I. Tanto, good size, versatile, not too heavy, great sheath, you can beat the crap out of it and easy to sharpen. Oh... and it's super affordable.
Same. I piggyback a CRKT Incendiary on the sheath for small chores.
Gerber lmf and prodigy. Awesome for the price. Prodigy comes 3 ways, tanto, serrated, or full. Have all 3. Full tang. My go to all the way.
Thanks David for the excellent videos. I am in the genesis of my knife hobby. I have studied Martial Arts my entire life. I watch your videos and I base a lot of my blade purchases on the reviews you present David in a very informative and educational way. I have learned so much about the world of Blades from you. I would highly recommend anyone who is looking to purchase a new blade to watch a review of yours to learn as much as you can about that particular blade. Thank you again David. Jimmy from the mountains of Northern California.
No Bark River knives? Man, they definitely should have made your list.
I make a set of ESEE-6 and MORAKNIV-Robust . I use them Horizontally on my belt in the same Sheath Left/Right deploy . I love the combo , ofcourse i did few Upgrades on both Blades for better Performance .
I really like David bringing out his own personal knife, showing the wear tear on that blade.
Makes it less of a gamble to purchase, via the web, when you see him bring in something he actually uses!
Good review! Personally, I prefer two knives. A small wood carving knife plus a 6-7" blade knife. That way you also have a back up if you break or lose one. Any serious wood carving requires a special knife.
Yeah I definitely must agree with that approach. It's not too much to ask to carry two knives really, in which case you can choose options more ideally suited to specific purposes rather than an "all-rounder".
agree but I'd say 6 to 8 inch, not 6 to 7
Great Video! I just added the Marine Fighting Knife Ka Bar and the Ka Bar Short Serrated (5.25 Inch) in all black. The ones you showed here looked great too.
Thanks David and guys at KC, A knife fan like me would be lost without your great work.
BK-9 is absolutely BEASTLY!
David, thanks yet again for a factual comprehensive & honest evaluation of this series. Over all other commentators, I much prefer & enjoy your impeccable & flawless testimony. If I decide to order a blade online, your company is almost always the one that I choose. Best regards, & keep up the good work!!! Stay safe, Barry K. Baldwin
Thank you Barry! Stay safe out there. -DCA
Becker bk7 is a surprisingly good knife. I was expecting it to be good but when I got it it exceeded my expectations, especially for the price
I am very impressed with these presentations. Good factual info, qualified opinions, and an eay, watchable and listenable format. I've dealt with the Knife Center and they have been uniformly well satisfied.
I have had the BK7 for several years now, and It has been a fantastic knife. The steel is something special.
I was going to grind off the thumb ramp, but it has actually been great. I added a choil for detail work, and I added micarta handles.
Have you dealt with the sheath or found a good custom maker? I've got the original, original sheath and I'm embarrased to even use that, hear the new one's not that much better.
I ran my Cold Steel Recon carbon v steel for over 20years. Beat the hell out of that knife. I retired it i favor of my Tops operator7 and my Tops Skull crusher. Despite what people say about those knives, absolutely bomb proof. The skull crusher will process wood all day long. I also daily carry a Tops police interceptor, fixed blade and the Fox/Tops collaboration 4.5inch tanto folder.
See a pattern lol. I have , Zero Tolerance, Sog , Cold Steel. All great knives, I just took to those Tops knives for some reason.
In 'ultimate' survival situations...as in your screwed...the Schrade hollow handle gives an opportunity to make a spear.
How does Bark River not make the list? They deserve at least an honorable mention
As a former Camillus Cutlery employee, the BK&T knives are awesome. As are Cold Steel. Cold Steel used to have a quality guy full time in the plant full time overseeing processes.
Had a CQB1, passed it to my son.
@@richardhatt6541 Top notch QC on those. Nice knife.
@@Rickster2791 two tours in Iraq, a knife I could trust my life with. Sad to see the company sold.
DC Anderson, one of the most pleasant and informative "knife guys" on the tube. Like this guy.
my choice--Cold Steel Voyager XL, Tanto. This guy has professional patter-- the best presentation I've seen. No "ahhhs" or "errrs" or stumbles..
The best survival knife you can own , is the one you actually have on you when you finally figure out you are in a survival situation , for me it was a 4in old timer pocketknife.
Amen
Schrade SCHF 9. It's cheap and built like a tank. I bought a couple, one to use the crap out of and one for a backup. I had mine for 4 years and put it through some jaw dropping, hellacious use. This includes battoning with a rock. It looks a little tired but it still works great. You can't go wrong.
All great advice. Loved every bit of it. Very professional. Now to add my (after tax) two cents worth. Former infantryman and during my undergrad summers, I taught Air Crew Survival for the military. The best survival knife? It’s the one you have ON Hand! Ha ha ha ha Honestly, that survival attitude is what gets everyone through. Keep up the good work, brothers!! Cheers
Agreed with the best is the one you have on hand! That is why we tried to stick with suggestions that wouldn't be too annoying to carry. Thank you for your service!
Infantryman here as well. 10 yrs and tour later and my #1 knife that saved my ass and STILL in amazing shape to this day would be my Benchmade Nimravus Black class fixed blade. Not super premium steel yet 154CM with G10 scales and Kydex/Carbon Fiber sheath. Actually haven't seen a sheath of this quality since buying this and my Black class Ares folder in '97
I think all of those knives are great, the Becker would be my favorite. I picked up a Kershaw withe a very fast blade assist for $17 bucks about 10 yrs. ago. carry it every day. Although I wouldn't consider it a survival knife it would surly do in a pinch. Opens as fast as an auto, blade hold an edge and sharpens in a few strokes. It does every ting that I have needed in a carry folder, and the price was a steel.
I've had my eyes on that SRK-C for a while as an all-purpose survival knife. The only other knife I was considering was the Strongarm, but I've had too many bad experiences with gerber to go back to them.
The Strongarm is just overpriced for 420HC, IMO.
Patiently waiting for the SRK-C in 3V steel. That'll be a sweet knife
My favorite beckerbk2 Jack of all trades master of non . Replace the sheath with American made one. Works just fine
I've found that unless you're in the pacific northwest, carbon blades do just fine without oil. Just wipe it on your pant leg if it's been exposed to moisture. Ill notice slight discoloration beginning to form but it gets removed while passing through wood.
Fixed Blade: Bark River Bravo 1.25 in CPM 3V
Folder: Cold Steel SR1 Lite,
Cold Steel Rajah II in AUS-10A,
Cold Steel Voyager XL Tanto in AUS-10A,
Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter in S35VN
David, man, that Pilgrim of yours is a beaut! Definitely the best knife on the table... for me, at least. I'm a sucker for simplicity, versatility and reliability. :)
I think so too, but I am a bit biased lol. Thank you damyr! -DCA
@@knifecenter Dammit -DCA!. I thought I was done with grail knives for a while.. The longer I studied the geometry and craft.. Yeah that Pilgrim's my knife.
Wish me luck with Canadian exchange rate at that price.
Another awesome Update/Review man.
Grabbed a Gerber Strong arm for a work beater recently after wearing out all folder systems, she's solid but the sheath has been nothing but a hassle especially below 0 degrees C. Serious contraction. Good point about top guards. Does get in the way for detail work.
Nobody describes knives better than this guy! Go David!
Good over all job, but....at the end of the day, straight blade rules, sure a 4" blade is good but....a 6 or 7 is ideal for basic handling if you're in a self defense situation.
This video is spot on brother.
My idea knife is one I can pry with, cut with, and basically do whatever I ask it to do. I carry a Buck knife. So far it does anything I ask
Cold Steel AD-10 is by far my favorite large folding knives. The type of folding knife you want if their ever was an apocalypse.
The AD-10 is great. I had the 4-Max, and it was an absolute beast. It was SOOO big I decided it wasn't really practical, so I traded it for a Kizer Laconico and a Molon Labe version of a Rexford Zero Tolerance to a kid who REALLY wanted a 4-Max. I've handled an AD-10, but I haven't bought one yet. For now my Ultimate Hunter is tough enough.
@Castle Bravo
That's why I never bought that one.
I carry a heavily modified Cold Steel Trailmaster and an RMJ tactical Shrike as my survival tools, in a Galco gunleather underarm carry rig. That way they don't weigh down my belt, they fit under my pack and I can still paddle my canoe effectively. Also, I can sit down without my knife and tomahawk getting in the way! Underarm carry is great, if you have the right build for it.
I love all of my ESEE knives. Including my ESEE 6. Though I do prefer the ESEE 5 over it. Biggest negative is that the ESEE logo is carved out of the otherwise excellent black coating on the blade. Which to me, makes no sense. That logo is not tiny. And I've seen ESEE knives rust where the logo was carved out of the finish.
Not the main reason, but one reason I prefer my 5 over my 6 is because my 5 has the Desert Tan coating instead of the Black. Tan coating with black lettering on the logo. No exposed metal logo carved from the black coating itself.
The cutting edge rusts on all of mine also. Other than rusting there great knives wish they made them in s35vn or something similar.
I personally hate knives with coated blades for several reasons like once it's started to wear off there's NO stopping it or fixing it yourself unlike a polished blade or even stonewashed for example. The only company I'm aware of that will recoat the blade back to factory specs are Benchmade, but at a cost!
If budget is the problem, nothing can beat the Cold Steel GI Tanto.
Mora could
Warcraft!!! Colas Steel. 🤘🏻
@Bert Clayton serious
I got a CS GI Tanto years ago just bc it cost $25 at the time and it’s a solid knife. I was surprised how durable it was especially for the price. I used it for chopping and everything
Your content is getting me through the lockdown in NJ. I would go with the ESEE 5 or 6 but all are capable options.
William Sheehe same! I’m in the northwest tip of NJ. Been binging Knife Center vids all day.
Im in jersey i carry a hogue ex-f01 7" nd 5.5" best buck for your dallor hands down
@@jamesanderson562 great knives BUT not good for survival or extreme tactical situations tbh.
@@dieseldabz7104 ya ok, what the hell was the knife made for then?
Except for that hollow handled knife looking thing.😂
My favorite favorite is my Fox/FKMD Parang. Brilliant design, incredibly durable, versatile...
I think the Cold Steel Chaos series knives deserve to be in this lineup. And I wouldn't be too concerned about "raised eyebrows" either, especially out in the bush....
Tops Silent Hero has served me well in this role.
Can't speak highly enough of the Ka Bar BK7 and ESEE 5
My wife bought me the Schrade SCHF1 for Christmas (she saw bushcraft & survival knife in the title and figured it's awesome as you can store stuff in the handle. It's the thought that counts 😉 )
I have a few Schrades (SCHF 26 & 36) that have been used and abused and are still going strong, but I was dubious about this one.
I started taking it with me when hiking and camping to test it and I have to admit that I purposefully abused it a lot more than I would normally while just using a knife for general bushcraft and camping. In fact I beat the life out of it and I was pleasantly surprised by how well it did. While it's anything but perfect, it can batton, carve feather sticks and even handle basic food prep.
I put a fire and water purification kit in the handle and it stays in my pack as a backup knife option.
I have the Becker BK-7 and it's an excellent heavy duty survival knife. However the plastic scales that come on the knife are somewhat smooth in texture and become quite slippery if your hands get wet or sweaty. I had to wrap the handle with hockey tape to stop it from slipping in my hands. I eventually replaced the plastic with canvas micarta scales.
Get a low grit sandpaper, and start putting down some sratches to those plastic handles. You'will be suprised, how good you can make them feel. They can come so close to micarta or G10 feel, that you couldn't tell the dfference with closed eyes. Add on that, the extra grip and the fact, that you won't sucrifice any comfort for all that, neither any weight and balance issues, a real micarta or G10 handle could provide.
The knife you helped designed is high on my list only because it has a bushcraft look, in fact it's the perfect type knife as all others start to become high maintenance
When it comes to this topic a realistic scenario to plan for is key in my view. Try switching the word "survival" with "emergency" and see what that brings to your mind.
"You're not going to get the same size you would with a fixed blade"... **Laughs in Cold Steel Espada XL**
Touche! lol
Cold steel is made in China. Even after this fake China flu people still buying junk. Ha ha ..
@@mikecarr1484 Cold Steel is not made in China.
I don’t know what they’re like these days, but the reason I’ve stayed away from them is because they sucked.....
STILL wouldn't trust the lockup on it and fixed blades are ALWAYS stronger especially when full tang!
Been rocking my Benchmade Nimravus for over 20 years now and still going strong as the day I bought it after joining the military in '97
I feel at peace when I hear this man preach about knives 😇
The Best Knife Presenter on UA-cam...Hands Down!👍
My favorite Survival Knife is my Tops “Smoke Jumper”
Tops makes amazing knives
I disagree
It’s a tad inexplicable why sharpening tools are not listed/mentioned as companions. It’s way inexplicable when a lot of websites recommend/do batoning. I carried a USAF pilot survival (5 in Ontario) knife on active duty for 3 years, in addition to an 7 in Ontario “KABAR”
That Pilgrim is beautiful, great design David!
Thank you! -DCA
Becker BK-16. Great size and tough little knife. Make your own sheath to fit your needs.
Oh fälkniven is one of the best knives in my opinion. Sweden really knows how to make knives!
As a one-tool-option.....
The best “survival” knife out there (imho) would be the TOPS Tahoma Field Knife.
Hogue's my favorite survival knife.
SPECS
• Blade Length: 5.5”
• Overall Length: 10.5”
• Weight: 10.4 oz
BLADE
• Style: Drop Point
• Thickness: 0.235”
• Material: A2 Tool Steel
• Hardness: 57-59 HRC
• Treatment: Cryogenically Heat Treated
• Finish: Black Cerakote®
• Flat Grind - Hand Honed Edge
FEATURES
• Frame: Cocobolo Hardwood Scales
• Includes Ballistic Nylon MOLLE Sheath
• Lanyard/Lashing Holes
• Impact Pommel
David Harbor teaching me about knives is amazing
My current knife collection:
Gerber Strongarm
Spyderco Dragonfly 2
Spyderco Para 3
Kershaw Knockout
Coldsteel AD10
RMJ Tactical Sparrow (most recent purchase)
My favorite knife from this group is the Coldsteel AD10. I just can't put it down. Its basically my fidget spinner, which also tends to make bystanders nervous. I've gone through 2 resharpenings in a year. I've broken the tip on my Spyderco Para 3, which they repaired for free minus the cost of shipping. My Dragonfly 2 is my package opener. The Spyderco knives I have are a bit light for anything serious. I'll likely start carrying my RMJ Tactical Sparrow as a daily soon.
Dude knows his blades man...
Great show, excellent descriptions, great presence and presentation, no BS, straight to the point, and very useful information. Thanks and keep up the great work!
In Oklahoma it is open carry no license required. I open carry my 357 S&W. I conceal a Beretta 380. And I open carry a big Bowie buck knife with a switchblade in my pocket.
tops steel eagle delta is a survival BEAST!!!
Agreed
EDC Gerber Icon, they are strong and sharp. They are cheap enough that if they get broken or lost no big heartache, but I have yet to loose or break one. I give them out as gifts all the time. I have one stashed everywhere. I have probably bought about 35 of them......
My woods knives are Becker BK and BK18
Toughest : British MOD issue survival knife. Light weight and cheap : Glock 78. Best but bulky : Ka-bar Kukri or Ka-Bar Combat Kukri. Traditionals : Old Air Force suvival knife / Ka-Bar issue fighting knives.
General advice : Get a pure knife unencumbered by saw teeth, hollow handle, serrations etc. Carry a small survival kit on your belt or in a cargo pocket :
1) Piece of hacksaw blade or saber saw blade ( as saw or striker )
2) String of dental floss ( many cordage uses )
3) Piece of aluminum foil ( signeling mirror, bowl )
4) Bic lighter wrapped in Gorilla Tape ( Gorilla tape uses : tinder, moleskin, bandage etc )
5) Piece of inner tube rubber with cuts for fire starting.
6) Stub of pencil
7) piece of paper (messaging, tinder)
8) toilet paper : 5 sheets ( sanitary, tinder)
9) Emergency rain poncho ( part for improvised shelter )
10) Scalpel, survival card tool or Victorinox Classic Swiss Army Knife ( mini cutting device )
11) Bug repellant wipe ( make it yourself with napkin and reliant in Zip-loc snack bag
12) Coffee filter
13) Water purification tablets (2)
14) Unlubricated condom ( emergency canteen).
15) Optional: Emergency space blanket, chemical heat pad, Temporary sunglasses from your eye doctor, safety pin, food bar.
My EDC would probably also be my survival choice. I carry a Hinderer XM-24. Spanto blade shape is wonderful and I know from experience I can pry with it and not hurt the knife. Thing's built like a tank.
Didn’t know you designed your own knife model. Congratulations!
I was hummin and haaahing between the Esse6 and the Becker , and then I listened to Mr Ethan talk about his knives, and well say no more
Good review. I think you might want to mention the features of the sheaths, most especially the Gerber Strongarm, which can be worn both vertically and horizontally - something very few knives can claim! If you didn't show any other sheath,....you ought to show this one because its one of the reasons I bought it.
Agreed, and same 😎👌
I was on vacation and had to trek out of the middle of a swamp when my pirogue decided to take on water and sink (homemade). My backpack with some supplies saved but my full tang sheath knife was not to be found in my pack. All I had was my buck stockman. Freaking thing felled a sapling to make a whacking/walking stick and cut palmettos and ferns for shelter. Took me two days to walk/swim out of the damn place. It was during a weekday so I saw no boats riding around.
These are some really awesome looking survival knifes. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Straight forward no theatrics. Just great!!!
One note of caution on storing fire starters in a handle compartment. Do not store strike anywhere matches in it. Impacting the knife can ignite the matches causing the handle to explode.
ESEE 6 + STRONGARM + a folder knife (Ganzo Firebird FB7601) are my favorites buschraft tools/knives. Respect for You!
I have an esee5 and Bk2
I'm goooood!
Wish The Strongarm came in a 6.5-inch version with CPM 3V or Zwear PM steel( DLC coated).
the cold steel srk comes in 3v
For a survival knife 🔪 in Colorado I prefer a longer blade that will be more effective in case of a possible Bear or Couger incounter
The best true "survival" or working knife in an in country area I found and have used very hard is a driver's shark knife. I think it was a U.S. divers knife. Large hammer like pummel. Good large grip and guard. Heavy " thick" blade with half serations in the blade and a real sawback on the spline. The plastic sheath held up ( I taped mine to my slick with 100mph tape) and the rubber O ring retainer was easy and quick to get it out. Rubber and stainless, nothing to split, rust or rot. The stainless was an "ok" edge, but I could use a rock or cement to sharpen it back up.
David,great vid!! I carry (fixed blade) a Pathfinder knife shop mountain lion. Overall 10 inches, 5in blade,micarta handles , still has the forge markings. You can purchase the knife for $109.00(w/o sheath) guaranteed for life, ⅛ thick . 90 degree spine.You can purchase a friction leather sheath for $39.00 or kydex?
It's replaced my Buck 639 as my primary carry(still an AWESOME knife). And for a folder,a Ranger 78 from Vitrinox.
How many of us have had a problem with rust on our knives?
If I use it frequently, rust is never an issue. Even my fishing and boat knives are all carbon.
Stainless is a pain to sharpen in the field, and they are usually more brittle.
Carbon is king. Change my mind.
@Castle Bravo Try anyway. I started forging this year. I've got quite a few books to read, and I'm on quarantine. When I start making knives, whenever I can get back to it, I'm pretty sure I'll start with the pile of scrap i have on hand. I also have a few bars of 1095, and some d2.
Do you know something about forging or using stainless knives?
I'm genuinely curious. All the sources I've checked talk about stainless in hospital settings and salt water use. I'm getting the impression that I have no need to fool with stainless.
So... tell me what you know.
Again, I have nothing but time, as I'm on quarantine. Cheers
John Christopher probably depends on where you live, your biology, and how well you take care of your things. Some people’s chemistry just somehow creates rust. I had a shotgun for 20 years and not a speck of rust. Someone borrowed it, and it came back with rust. I could not get a Glock to rust, but I have seen pics of very rusty Glocks. I have no idea how that even happens. I have a Colt pistol made in 1927. No rust at all.
Great job! Clear, concise and interesting. Most important is that your delivery was helpful in understanding survival knife options with pros and cons. You may consider expanding your delivery agenda with showing the use of flints/fire starting with wood cutting- tree limbs, etc.
I have a Gerber Prodigy (if you can find one now) its a beast! Re-ground front of blade more like somewhat "saber" and batoned thru a 2 in sapling in a jiff with the flat end. One you may have mentioned is the Ontario Rat 5 or 7. Another very utilitarian and tough. Took the handle off the 5 and paracord'ed it with 3/16 in. green and then sprayed with satin polyurethane.....WHEW! long way to go for a great $79 knife. Stripped the black stuff off the blade too. Custom sheath.....you can beat the hell out of this one as well, not that you need to. sharp!
I own a bk 7 and its awesome but honestly a mora for 1/3 the price is good enough...
David is so humble - good guy.
Great reviews and you don't resort to foul language to sell a product, keep up the good work