You're very welcome! Your videos help me too. I had to watch your rear main seal video again because I've actually never had the opportunity to remove a rope seal. I found that you didn't film it 🤣 but you did explain it which gave me the idea for the screw extraction method so i appreciate all that you do!
Was debating between this and pulling the engine. Thanks for the detailed video, I think I'll be attempting it this way now. Also appreciate the seal replacement source.
The last time I did this on my 72 Ford F250, I used a wooden dowel to push the seal out. Also, once it starts moving, a flexible pick-up tool might be used to push it on through, assuming it want's to come apart.
This video helped me out a lot. Unfortunately, I had an extra couple of steps. I have a 61 falcon ranchero with a 200ci straight six. Those that are doing this for the Ranchero. 1. Loosen Sway Bar 2. Hoist engine slightly(with engine support bar- $80 at harbor frieght) to bolts that connect to the center bar, frame, and f engine mounts. 3. Remove center drag link on the passenger side. This is the most brutal step as ball forks and pitman tools dont work in that tight right angle squeeze that connects to the tie rod. I had to remove the tie rod(using ball fork tool) end that connects to the center drag link first, then give it a couple of whacks with a mallet to release the passenger side ball joint on the center drag link. Once that last third bar was dropped, I was finally able to remove the oil pan.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I was researching my 67 and that was some of the information that came my way. Also, that is how I found your channel and I'm glad it did pop up on my search. Have a great weekend!
I'm not a Mustang guy but have an early round body Falcon w/a 6. I don't think there is too many things you can't do/fix with the engine in the car. I've removed the crank, replaced the main & rod bearings, fnt & rear seals. With the crank in place on a 200 I'm replacing main & rod bearings, oil pump, timing chain and sprockets. The only thing that comes to mind is the camshaft, I don't think it will clear the rad support. Best of luck w/ your Mustang!
You say you soak the rear main seals in oil, but then you apply the RTV to the joints. Will the oil hamper the adhesive nature of the RTV, or do you clean off the seal ends before applying the RTV?
Is it the same method to install a rope style rear main seal because for my gmc pickup it has a rope style and they only sell the rope style rear main for it. Would I just lube it in oil and slide it in?
Hey Alf! I’ve got a 67 Mustang 289 and just removed my rear main seal bearing cap and looks like I’ve got the original rope in there. I haven’t started process of removing the rope seal in the engine block. Will try the phillips screw method unless you’ve found something better. Question: how did you turn the crank shaft to help remove the rope seal?
@@AlfsMustangGarage Ahh, ok great. Probably need to remove belts for alternator and power steering. Thanks for the help! Your videos are really the best!
You soaked the upper seal in engine oil. Some people told me not to bring oil to the back side of the seal, to prevent sliding in the groove. Only oil to the inner side. Did you never had problems working your way?
I don't know yet if it is going to work well, but I ordered a tool from Amazon that pulls out the rear seal....I am going to be replacing the bearings in my v8 dodge ram sometime soon and I'll try the tool first and see if it works well, if not Ill have to use the hammer/punch method like you are using.
Dude, thanks for the shout out!!
You're very welcome! Your videos help me too. I had to watch your rear main seal video again because I've actually never had the opportunity to remove a rope seal. I found that you didn't film it 🤣 but you did explain it which gave me the idea for the screw extraction method so i appreciate all that you do!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yeah, I wish I did film it, but I didn't want that whole part of the video to be bleeps.
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the demonstration and info on where we can acquire a seal set.
You're very welcome!
great video thx for posting the rear seal on my 200 is shot so I will tackle the job as soon as i get the seal from olson
Awesome! You're very welcome!
Was debating between this and pulling the engine. Thanks for the detailed video, I think I'll be attempting it this way now. Also appreciate the seal replacement source.
Oh ya you're very welcome. Seems to be a little less work than pulling the engine. Glad I could help!
The last time I did this on my 72 Ford F250, I used a wooden dowel to push the seal out. Also, once it starts moving, a flexible pick-up tool might be used to push it on through, assuming it want's to come apart.
This video helped me out a lot. Unfortunately, I had an extra couple of steps. I have a 61 falcon ranchero with a 200ci straight six. Those that are doing this for the Ranchero. 1. Loosen Sway Bar 2. Hoist engine slightly(with engine support bar- $80 at harbor frieght) to bolts that connect to the center bar, frame, and f engine mounts. 3. Remove center drag link on the passenger side. This is the most brutal step as ball forks and pitman tools dont work in that tight right angle squeeze that connects to the tie rod. I had to remove the tie rod(using ball fork tool) end that connects to the center drag link first, then give it a couple of whacks with a mallet to release the passenger side ball joint on the center drag link. Once that last third bar was dropped, I was finally able to remove the oil pan.
Oh wow! Thanks for sharing for those of us working on the Ranchero!
Perfect content for the Take the Pledge crowd.
Thanks, I think that means take the pledge and buy your seals from Olson's Gaskets?
@@AlfsMustangGarage "Take the pledge" is the marketing slogan for the ford 67 Mustang. Lol
🤣 oh my gosh! I guess I should know that. Well now I do, thanks for today's lesson!
@@AlfsMustangGarage I was researching my 67 and that was some of the information that came my way. Also, that is how I found your channel and I'm glad it did pop up on my search. Have a great weekend!
Oh awesome! Thanks, you as well.
Good job on that's changing Rear main seal Just subscribe to you Enjoy your video I'll be watching more Have a good day
Awesome, thank you!
Great video!! Love the content!!
Awesome, thank you!
I have a leaky seal and was told by many mechanic’s…the engine had to be removed to replace the seals…amazing video…
Oh wow. Well it's hard to find people who are good with old cars nowadays.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Or he'll get charged for an engine pull and fix while only doing a fix. Hmmmmm!!!
I'm not a Mustang guy but have an early round body Falcon w/a 6. I don't think there is too many things you can't do/fix with the engine in the car. I've removed the crank, replaced the main & rod bearings, fnt & rear seals. With the crank in place on a 200 I'm replacing main & rod bearings, oil pump, timing chain and sprockets. The only thing that comes to mind is the camshaft, I don't think it will clear the rad support. Best of luck w/ your Mustang!
Awesome video
Thank you!
You say you soak the rear main seals in oil, but then you apply the RTV to the joints. Will the oil hamper the adhesive nature of the RTV, or do you clean off the seal ends before applying the RTV?
Great video, thank you!!
You're very welcome!
I paint the block surface under the cap with the thinnest layer of gasket sealer.
I just got a set of seals in from Olson's Maybe I'll be able to get the thing back together soon
Awesome!
I have the front of the engine off too because doing timing chain. Is it better to do pan first or timing chain cover first?
I just recently purchased a felpro BS 30136 rear main seal. I didn't have trouble finding it. Is the 1965 200 different? Thanks for the video!
It's been out of production for a couple years. Either they started it back up or you lucked out.
@@AlfsMustangGarage both versions currently listed as in stock at all NPD locations.
So, I'd guess they restarted production
Well there ya go. Has been out of stock everywhere for the past 2 years
FEL-PRO BS30135 is the 200 six seal.
Great video! Does the directional knurling on the end of the crank cause any problems with the rubber type hard seals?
Nope not at all.
Thank you for your reply, I’m ordering one today👍
Is it the same method to install a rope style rear main seal because for my gmc pickup it has a rope style and they only sell the rope style rear main for it. Would I just lube it in oil and slide it in?
Great job. Try using a brass punch on rubber seal and brass screw on the rope seal to remove. Much Much less chance of scoring crank. My two cents.
I agree! Brass punches are much safer! I should have mentioned that in the video.
Hey Alf! I’ve got a 67 Mustang 289 and just removed my rear main seal bearing cap and looks like I’ve got the original rope in there. I haven’t started process of removing the rope seal in the engine block. Will try the phillips screw method unless you’ve found something better. Question: how did you turn the crank shaft to help remove the rope seal?
15/16" socket, small extension, and large 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Ahh, ok great. Probably need to remove belts for alternator and power steering.
Thanks for the help! Your videos are really the best!
@JefeBailey thank you! Good luck!
You soaked the upper seal in engine oil. Some people told me not to bring oil to the back side of the seal, to prevent sliding in the groove. Only oil to the inner side. Did you never had problems working your way?
I don't know yet if it is going to work well, but I ordered a tool from Amazon that pulls out the rear seal....I am going to be replacing the bearings in my v8 dodge ram sometime soon and I'll try the tool first and see if it works well, if not Ill have to use the hammer/punch method like you are using.
Umm what year is your dodge ram? It has a two piece rear main like this?
Did you use some kind of sealant to stick the gasket to the block? Super glue maybe? Lol
Hello can you install a dip stick on a timing cover with out taking it off the engine
6 cylinder engines have their dip sticks on the engine blocks.
What happens if that small pin on the lower bearing is not removed and you use a hard seal
Then it destroys your new seal and you've got a good leak.
Just trying to understand, so does it deforms the seal so oil can leak and doesn’t sit completely in the bearing cradle?
@BrandyKadous correct
What is the book that you're using for reference?
It's called Motor's auto repair manual service trade edition from 1969.
will this work on 59 ford galaxy v8 332 motor?
I would say probably not but you could call Olson's Gaskets and see if they make the correct seal.
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