You are hands down the best youtube mustang guy out there. Your videos are complete and very informative. I bought two Mustangs for my sixteen-year-old twin boys to fix up and you have been a lifesaver thank you very much
This is a "real world" demonstration, so refreshing. Projects like this rarely go perfectly, and it's so helpful to see how to deal with those problems that arise. In this vid, it's the distributor shaft not wanting to slide out easily. You make it very clear to not force it, or yank it out, like many of us amateur mechanics would tend to do! So, this was a great example of the kinds of issues one can run into, and perfectly demonstrated how to deal with it. Thank you for your completeness!
I really appreciate the high quality video and concise presentation of your projects. I'm working on my grandfather's 66 v8 coupe which is in pretty much all original condition. It's actually the same color as the one in your videos. Keep 'em coming!
You had a good visual with the water temp switch. I'd have rotated to that,, and used that as a baseline. Though your distributor would still need to be in same place
I love watching your videos truly my favorite channel! I recently purchased a 66 mustang coupe with an inline 6. She is running a little rough. Not sure if I should start with rebuilding the carb or is it a timing issue. She shakes more than I think is normal.
Hey Andrew! Thanks for watching the videos. So obviously it's not easy to diagnose a drivability issue over text. However, the advise I will tell you is to literally check everything. There are lots of things that can cause the engine to run rough and the carburetor is usually the first to blame but the most forgiving component. So you're going to want to check timing, check spark plugs (for wear and gap), check engine vacuum, check the vacuum advance, check the choke mechanism, and check the carb tune. One of these days I'm going to do a video on how to generally approach these things to check because lately, I've been asked this a lot. Usually though the very first thing I do before anything, is check the engine vacuum. Depending on what I see there, is kinda what I decide to check next. Anyway, hope that helps!
@@AlfsMustangGarage I can’t thank you enough that is so awesome for such a detail list response! I will go down the list! I hope you get some merchandise soon, would love to rock any gear you get.
Oh ya you're welcome! Keep me posted on what you find out. I figured I might do the whole merchandise thing if the channel gets bigger but its nice knowing I will have at least one buyer. For now there is always the super thanks button for those who want to help support the growing channel. However, just watching, liking, commenting, engaging in any way is helping so thank you very much!
Thank you very much I really appreciate that. I wouldn't go as far as saying they are all the same. They have different gears for different types of camshafts.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks for the reply. Since I don't know what cam is installed, sounds like I should pull the current distributor to see what it has for the gears
What if I pulled the distributor before noting the rotor position? I know it’s a stupid move but I’m restoring a 66 289 cause I wanted to learn. This is one of those learning opportunities.
ua-cam.com/video/-FDHk6yHyCA/v-deo.html Watch that video. Once you get cylinder 1 to top dead center compression stroke, you can install the distributor and place the rotor to fire on #1 of the distributor cap. That should get you in the ball park and you'll have to get the timing light on afterwards to get it perfect.
Alex, I bought a new coil for my factory 67 289. The original coil has the yellow top. A red wire, and black wire. The cap is marked positive, and negative. The new coil is marked battery, and distributor. Which wire goes to which terminal on the new coil? I don't want to hook them up backwards and burn up a new coil.
Just bought a 65 289 A code but it is s 2bbl. Question, surprised you didn't base time it with vacuum advance off, because the mechanical and vacuum advance profiles between the distributors are different. Second, is vacuum advance ported or manifold on that engine? Third, why didn't you choose an electronic distributor that ran battery voltage not through the resistor for a hotter spark? I have the factory air cleaner, height wise is the distributor the same to fit under the air cleaner pocket? If the allen shaft pulls out with the distributor, can you get it back in secured in the bottom of the new one? One more, l usually verify previous builder did not install a 351 or 302HO cam with the different firing order. Thanks
I know I’m kinda late to this video but I was wondering if I have to set my engine to top dead center before taking out and putting in the new distributor
You don't have to but you do have to take note of where the rotor is pointed before you remove it so it can go back in the same position. I will often set it up to cylinder 1 before removal just because its a habit of mine and its easy to remember if I get pulled off of what I am doing.
I have a 67 Coupe restomod w/still the factory wiring and the pink resistor wire under the dash. I was a teenager in the 70's and my Mustang is my first car. I HATED messing with points. My best friend is a mechanic and told me about the Mallory Unilite conversion kit. I put one in my stock distributor and thought it was the best thing EVER. NO MORE CHECKING POINTS WITH FEELER GAUGES AND CHECKING DWELL!! I like how you showed the OHM check on the resistor wire looking for the 1.3-1.5 resistance. I didn't know that. I would've done the rookie mistake and checked the voltage for the 9vdc at the ignition lead. At 13:49 mark, if you look past the carb on the firewall it looks like a ceramic ballast resistor mounted. If not a ballast resistor, what is it, if so, what is it being used for if the resistor wire is good and being used? Good video. I wish you shop was near San Diego.
Thank you for sharing some of your story. So to answer your question about that ballast resistor mounted on the firewall, the owner of this car attempted to install this distributor before I installed it. The Mallory instructions states to add a resistor like that. So he followed the instructions and could never get it to fire up. What he didn't realize is his car had the factory resistance wire and thus had two resistors in place. So it was there but obviously I didn't use it. I grew up just south of San Diego and visit friends on a regular basis. It's not too far of a drive 👍
I used to be a Mgr. at Super Shops back in the day. They were the exclusive retailer for Mallory distributors. ALWAYS make sure you have a resistor, usually comes with the distributor, installed. If you don't you will short the Unilite module. Follow the instructions and it will be a trouble free system for years.
@@coache1nine Yep, that's where I bought the Mallory Unilite conversion kit, SS in Glendale, CA. I loved the SS stores and really miss them. I wore the yellow SS T-shirt for years.
Hi Alex, I know you're working on the V8, but got a question for i6 200, when I pull the dizzy are you supposed to see the oil pump shaft? if not how does one prevent the rod from dropping to the pan if it doesn't use a "basket" clip? thanks much
Yes, you should see it right there where you pull the distributor out. If my memory serves me correctly, they don't have the basket like the v8. You just have to be careful when removing the distributor and to put it in, I usually use a strong magnet to slide it down into the pump. I hope that helps!
What you think of the mallory swap?how it drive after? I got one on my 302, switch to blue cap. Only issue with mine is that I burnt my module. So I installed a Ballast. Haven't had a problem but so many people say they are junk.. I guess it's just team mallory vs team msd. Just like team holley vs edelbrock 😅 mine doesn't have the vacuum advanced
Well I think it has much better throttle response and the timing on it is much smoother. Especially when the old distributor was mechanical points and the cam gear was way worn. So I think it was great and ya as long as you make sure there is enough resistance in the circuit so you don't burn up the module, you'll be good. Good thing they sell replacement ignition moduels for those.
Mallory ignition systems are top notch. They go all the way back to 1925. Go to an NHRA event. Most of your top fuel dragsters use a Mallory crank trigger ignition. The only difference is MSD is just that, multiple spark discharge. Meaning you have multiple spark over the duration of the firing sequence. With a Mallory unit, it's just one fat spark. Most people don't understand how an ignition system works to say what is junk.
@@coache1nineWhich one do you think is better Mallory, MSD, or Petronix III? I heard the Pertronix III has multiple sparks. The original high performance distributor had dual points so did that make two sparks?
@@LucasAutoHoldingsLLC I think it really comes down to your application. Because I usually run cams with a lot of overlap, I prefer a long burn during the firing sequence, to ensure a more complete burn. So the longer and fatter the spark, the better, IMO. It would be nice if I or someone actually used a scope on all three systems to see the duration of the spark in the firing sequence. There's a lot of information to be had.
Hey Alex, is it necessary to disconnect the vacuum advance when checking initial timing? I’ve heard people say you should but it doesn’t seem to make a difference if I do or not on mine 🤷🏻♂️
Well the answer is yes and no. I like to look at total timing advance which means I will watch the timing at 3000 rpms with the vacuum line connected. I also like to watch the timing with the vacuum line disconnected at idle and then plug it in to make sure there isn't any vacuum drawing on the distributor. And then I like to watch the timing curve as I accelerate the engine to see how its ramping up and coming back. I hope that makes sense.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Just the fact that you replied is really cool. I am now Subscribed! Last question and I won't bug you again. I have the hipo manifolds, h-pipe and magnaflows already installed. I did 2.5" from the manifolds back to the exhaust tips, but the only GT "trumpet" style exhaust tips I could find were 2", so it goes down to a 2" right at the exit. I don't know if that's the culprit, but the magnaflows are way too quiet and worst part is that when I'm driving and take my foot off the gas (decelerate), it almost sounds like the engine shuts off (like whisper quiet with no sound at all), so I want to switch out the mufflers. Is this exhaust 2" front to back, or did you do what I did with the 2.5" and could you give me just a little more info on the glass packs? (size and brand.... part number would be king). Thank you sooooo much. I love your channel.
I have a 66 ford inline 6 240, with a load o matic distributor. Can i add a 4 barrel carb & replace my 1 barrel, and replace to c manifold, using my loadomatic
Im in the process of trying to swap out my points right now on my 1965 Mustang coupe and so far its proven difficult for me. I would really like to convert to electronic and never need to touch it again, but I alsi heard the Pertronix system is unreliable. How good is the Mallory one?
I've used Pertronix many times. One of my personal cars has had one installed since 2006. I would say they are reliable when installed properly. I'm sure the Mallory one is good too but I usually default to Pertronix if you just want to convert the ignition but not the whole distributor.
Perhaps an ignition misfire on cylinder one or bad coil or something with the ignition system. check all the ignition components. Could also mean bad timing light....
Depends on the distributor. I would have selected one with a matching coil to run 12v and either bypass the resister or wire it off a pertronix relay. Personal preference. Understand your question though
Hey Alf can u help me out.. i have a 66 mustang w a 289 eldenbrock 1406 at. Last week i set timing at 11* and moved the accelerator setting to the middle hole. She ran beautifully but yesterday i started her up and she is running so rough.. and dies when i put her in gear.. she has pertronix ignition, new spark plug cables. She has 5psi on fuel pressure.. she sits alot so I'm thinking fuel / carb problems??? What do u suggest?. Any help is appreciated.. Thank u
Well these things are always hard to pin point over a keyboard. But does it have a large vacuum leak? Do you have a vacuum gauge? If not, I suggest investing in one and getting a vacuum reading off the engine as a starting point.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yes sir i do have one.. i used it not long ago to adjust air/fuel screws.. I'm thinking it was like 16 1/2 inches.. ok i will put the gauge on..also i bought some carb cleaner to spray and ck for leak. I'll let u know 😁 thanks
Good morning Alf.. hey it turned out to b a vacuum leak on the auto transmission vacuum line.. there was no apparent crack but when i held it in my hand and sprayed it carb cleaner the engine stumbled..btw the vacuum is at like @ 17 1/2.. Thanks for your help 👍
There's over 1,000,000 Ford 5.0s out there being turned into 289s for lack of availability.. NOT ONE place in 35 years has made a retro distributor to fit the 5.0 ( the oil pump drive is 1/2" longer is all).. Not pretronix or mallory or msd or or or.. Odd how no one will make that 'unilite' to fit a 5.0 block. all other 289 parts will fit the engine.
I'm not sure what you mean. There are plenty of distributors being made for 5.0 engines. Please explain how the 5.0 is being made into a 289 because of the disstributor.
WHY would you orient the no 1 cylinder 160 ish deg away from pointing AT THE NO clylinder? your wires are all discimboblualted that way. why not point the rotor so you have the shortest direct neatest path for as many wires as possible? my 76 F150 has pretty neat wiring, maybe could be neater with custom length wires and it would look professionally done. BUT even as it is with stock looms holding my wires in place i can confidently pull all my plug wires easily w/o knowing firing order or anything cuz theyre all oriented and lay flat with min criss crosses
Great video! You don't need to unplug the vacuum hose to time the new distributor? Or was is warm enough that it wasn't effecting it? I want to do that mod to my 67.
Thank you! So I didn't talk much about setting the timing in this video but I'll try to give you a quick run down. When you have your distributor connected to the correct port (which is the ported vacuum port), it shouldn't be pulling a vacuum on the advance unless you have your idle set too high. So typically what I will do is set my idle fairly low to elimate any sort of mechanical advancement or vacuum advancement. You can also remove the line when doing this but it just shoudn't have any vacuum on that until the throttle plates start to open up. Then I will set my desired timing and then adjust my idle air misture screws and then finalize the idle setting.
You are hands down the best youtube mustang guy out there. Your videos are complete and very informative. I bought two Mustangs for my sixteen-year-old twin boys to fix up and you have been a lifesaver thank you very much
Wow thank you! It's comments like this that really do help me to keep going. I'm glad I've been able to help! Sounds like you've got your hands full 👍
Not only is this channel great for Mustangs, it's also keeping my 1965 Ford Falcon running. The Mustang and Falcon are half-siblings.
Glad to know I can help in more ways than one.
If you take the horn cap off the first year mustang made you’ll find a reference directly to the falcon!
This is a "real world" demonstration, so refreshing. Projects like this rarely go perfectly, and it's so helpful to see how to deal with those problems that arise. In this vid, it's the distributor shaft not wanting to slide out easily. You make it very clear to not force it, or yank it out, like many of us amateur mechanics would tend to do! So, this was a great example of the kinds of issues one can run into, and perfectly demonstrated how to deal with it. Thank you for your completeness!
You're very welcome. Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to show appreciation!
Look for the pink resistance wire off the ignition switch, it goes to the coil.
I really appreciate the high quality video and concise presentation of your projects.
I'm working on my grandfather's 66 v8 coupe which is in pretty much all original condition. It's actually the same color as the one in your videos. Keep 'em coming!
Oh very cool, thank you!
This channel has saved me so much money. Working on my ‘67 289.
Oh awesome! Good to hear.
This car is ridiculously gorgeous
I don't even own a Mustang 😁 I just love to see how beautiful this man works on them. Great job love your videos.
Ha ha thanks! Definitely don't need to own one to love them. But maybe one day you will own one?
The method of turning that rotor counter clockwise was the key. Thanks
You're very welcome
You had a good visual with the water temp switch. I'd have rotated to that,, and used that as a baseline. Though your distributor would still need to be in same place
Love it I just did this on a galaxie ..just two things galaxie is not as nice and the distributor is also not as nice.. sweet vid
Lol thank you! What matters is that you got the job done right?
Thank you, I got a 1970 ford ranchero with the same engine, and gonna change the distributor. Thanks for the help from California.
You're very welcome
Your explanations are very clear and concise!
Thank you very much! I really appreciate the comments.
Just upgrading to a duraspark is all that you need.
I did it to a 67 and a 69. Car starts easier and has a smoother idle. Just opened up the plug gap.
Exactly the video I was looking for.
Glad you found it!
Awesome video wow! Subscribed and following your journey now thanks Alf!
You're very welcome! Welcome to the club!
I put the fomoco eletronic ign.system in my 67 289,it is big hp jump,and its all ford equipt.
I love watching your videos truly my favorite channel! I recently purchased a 66 mustang coupe with an inline 6. She is running a little rough. Not sure if I should start with rebuilding the carb or is it a timing issue. She shakes more than I think is normal.
Hey Andrew! Thanks for watching the videos. So obviously it's not easy to diagnose a drivability issue over text. However, the advise I will tell you is to literally check everything. There are lots of things that can cause the engine to run rough and the carburetor is usually the first to blame but the most forgiving component. So you're going to want to check timing, check spark plugs (for wear and gap), check engine vacuum, check the vacuum advance, check the choke mechanism, and check the carb tune. One of these days I'm going to do a video on how to generally approach these things to check because lately, I've been asked this a lot. Usually though the very first thing I do before anything, is check the engine vacuum. Depending on what I see there, is kinda what I decide to check next. Anyway, hope that helps!
@@AlfsMustangGarage
I can’t thank you enough that is so awesome for such a detail list response! I will go down the list!
I hope you get some merchandise soon, would love to rock any gear you get.
Oh ya you're welcome! Keep me posted on what you find out. I figured I might do the whole merchandise thing if the channel gets bigger but its nice knowing I will have at least one buyer. For now there is always the super thanks button for those who want to help support the growing channel. However, just watching, liking, commenting, engaging in any way is helping so thank you very much!
Thanks for the video, hands down the best I've seen regarding distributor replacement. Do all the 289s use the same gear at bottom of the distributor?
Thank you very much I really appreciate that. I wouldn't go as far as saying they are all the same. They have different gears for different types of camshafts.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks for the reply. Since I don't know what cam is installed, sounds like I should pull the current distributor to see what it has for the gears
That's probably the best thing I would think 👍
Great video. Good instructions
Thank you!
Amazing video, thank you. Looks like you are running the shorty water pump, what radiator and electric fan are you using? Appreciate any help
You're very welcome. I'm not 100% sure. These cars I film are my client's cars.
What if I pulled the distributor before noting the rotor position? I know it’s a stupid move but I’m restoring a 66 289 cause I wanted to learn. This is one of those learning opportunities.
ua-cam.com/video/-FDHk6yHyCA/v-deo.html
Watch that video. Once you get cylinder 1 to top dead center compression stroke, you can install the distributor and place the rotor to fire on #1 of the distributor cap. That should get you in the ball park and you'll have to get the timing light on afterwards to get it perfect.
Thanks berry helpful
You're very welcome
Great Channel ! Did mallory make a dual point distributor for a 289 ci back in the 60s. ?
Alex, I bought a new coil for my factory 67 289. The original coil has the yellow top. A red wire, and black wire. The cap is marked positive, and negative. The new coil is marked battery, and distributor. Which wire goes to which terminal on the new coil? I don't want to hook them up backwards and burn up a new coil.
Battery is positive, and distributor is negative.
Just bought a 65 289 A code but it is s 2bbl. Question, surprised you didn't base time it with vacuum advance off, because the mechanical and vacuum advance profiles between the distributors are different. Second, is vacuum advance ported or manifold on that engine? Third, why didn't you choose an electronic distributor that ran battery voltage not through the resistor for a hotter spark? I have the factory air cleaner, height wise is the distributor the same to fit under the air cleaner pocket? If the allen shaft pulls out with the distributor, can you get it back in secured in the bottom of the new one? One more, l usually verify previous builder did not install a 351 or 302HO cam with the different firing order. Thanks
I know I’m kinda late to this video but I was wondering if I have to set my engine to top dead center before taking out and putting in the new distributor
You don't have to but you do have to take note of where the rotor is pointed before you remove it so it can go back in the same position. I will often set it up to cylinder 1 before removal just because its a habit of mine and its easy to remember if I get pulled off of what I am doing.
I have a 67 Coupe restomod w/still the factory wiring and the pink resistor wire under the dash. I was a teenager in the 70's and my Mustang is my first car. I HATED messing with points. My best friend is a mechanic and told me about the Mallory Unilite conversion kit. I put one in my stock distributor and thought it was the best thing EVER. NO MORE CHECKING POINTS WITH FEELER GAUGES AND CHECKING DWELL!! I like how you showed the OHM check on the resistor wire looking for the 1.3-1.5 resistance. I didn't know that. I would've done the rookie mistake and checked the voltage for the 9vdc at the ignition lead. At 13:49 mark, if you look past the carb on the firewall it looks like a ceramic ballast resistor mounted. If not a ballast resistor, what is it, if so, what is it being used for if the resistor wire is good and being used? Good video. I wish you shop was near San Diego.
Thank you for sharing some of your story. So to answer your question about that ballast resistor mounted on the firewall, the owner of this car attempted to install this distributor before I installed it. The Mallory instructions states to add a resistor like that. So he followed the instructions and could never get it to fire up. What he didn't realize is his car had the factory resistance wire and thus had two resistors in place. So it was there but obviously I didn't use it. I grew up just south of San Diego and visit friends on a regular basis. It's not too far of a drive 👍
I used to be a Mgr. at Super Shops back in the day. They were the exclusive retailer for Mallory distributors. ALWAYS make sure you have a resistor, usually comes with the distributor, installed. If you don't you will short the Unilite module. Follow the instructions and it will be a trouble free system for years.
@@coache1nine Yep, that's where I bought the Mallory Unilite conversion kit, SS in Glendale, CA. I loved the SS stores and really miss them. I wore the yellow SS T-shirt for years.
Hi Alex, I know you're working on the V8, but got a question for i6 200, when I pull the dizzy are you supposed to see the oil pump shaft? if not how does one prevent the rod from dropping to the pan if it doesn't use a "basket" clip? thanks much
Yes, you should see it right there where you pull the distributor out. If my memory serves me correctly, they don't have the basket like the v8. You just have to be careful when removing the distributor and to put it in, I usually use a strong magnet to slide it down into the pump. I hope that helps!
What you think of the mallory swap?how it drive after? I got one on my 302, switch to blue cap. Only issue with mine is that I burnt my module. So I installed a Ballast. Haven't had a problem but so many people say they are junk.. I guess it's just team mallory vs team msd. Just like team holley vs edelbrock 😅 mine doesn't have the vacuum advanced
Well I think it has much better throttle response and the timing on it is much smoother. Especially when the old distributor was mechanical points and the cam gear was way worn. So I think it was great and ya as long as you make sure there is enough resistance in the circuit so you don't burn up the module, you'll be good. Good thing they sell replacement ignition moduels for those.
Mallory ignition systems are top notch. They go all the way back to 1925. Go to an NHRA event. Most of your top fuel dragsters use a Mallory crank trigger ignition. The only difference is MSD is just that, multiple spark discharge. Meaning you have multiple spark over the duration of the firing sequence. With a Mallory unit, it's just one fat spark. Most people don't understand how an ignition system works to say what is junk.
@@coache1nineWhich one do you think is better Mallory, MSD, or Petronix III? I heard the Pertronix III has multiple sparks. The original high performance distributor had dual points so did that make two sparks?
@@LucasAutoHoldingsLLC I think it really comes down to your application. Because I usually run cams with a lot of overlap, I prefer a long burn during the firing sequence, to ensure a more complete burn. So the longer and fatter the spark, the better, IMO. It would be nice if I or someone actually used a scope on all three systems to see the duration of the spark in the firing sequence. There's a lot of information to be had.
Hey Alex, is it necessary to disconnect the vacuum advance when checking initial timing? I’ve heard people say you should but it doesn’t seem to make a difference if I do or not on mine 🤷🏻♂️
Well the answer is yes and no. I like to look at total timing advance which means I will watch the timing at 3000 rpms with the vacuum line connected. I also like to watch the timing with the vacuum line disconnected at idle and then plug it in to make sure there isn't any vacuum drawing on the distributor. And then I like to watch the timing curve as I accelerate the engine to see how its ramping up and coming back. I hope that makes sense.
any chance you could tell me what exhaust system he had on his car? I have the exact same car and this one sounds amazing.
This one does sound great. It has hipo manifolds, H-pipe, and glass pack mufflers.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Just the fact that you replied is really cool. I am now Subscribed! Last question and I won't bug you again. I have the hipo manifolds, h-pipe and magnaflows already installed. I did 2.5" from the manifolds back to the exhaust tips, but the only GT "trumpet" style exhaust tips I could find were 2", so it goes down to a 2" right at the exit. I don't know if that's the culprit, but the magnaflows are way too quiet and worst part is that when I'm driving and take my foot off the gas (decelerate), it almost sounds like the engine shuts off (like whisper quiet with no sound at all), so I want to switch out the mufflers. Is this exhaust 2" front to back, or did you do what I did with the 2.5" and could you give me just a little more info on the glass packs? (size and brand.... part number would be king). Thank you sooooo much. I love your channel.
I have a 66 ford inline 6 240, with a load o matic distributor. Can i add a 4 barrel carb & replace my 1 barrel, and replace to c manifold, using my loadomatic
Im in the process of trying to swap out my points right now on my 1965 Mustang coupe and so far its proven difficult for me.
I would really like to convert to electronic and never need to touch it again, but I alsi heard the Pertronix system is unreliable. How good is the Mallory one?
I've used Pertronix many times. One of my personal cars has had one installed since 2006. I would say they are reliable when installed properly. I'm sure the Mallory one is good too but I usually default to Pertronix if you just want to convert the ignition but not the whole distributor.
I have a 68 fastback w 289 and my timing light is dancing around does that mean bad distributor ?
Perhaps an ignition misfire on cylinder one or bad coil or something with the ignition system. check all the ignition components. Could also mean bad timing light....
Shouldn't you disconnect and plug the ported vacuum when setting initial timing?
Yes, or make sure your idle is low enough so there is no vacuum on that port. Either way, your base timing needs to be set with no advancement.
Would a 67 Mercury 289 be the same?
Yes
did it improve the pep ?
Little bit 👍
👍
thank you sir
Why is a ballast resistor required if running electronic ignition?
Depends on the distributor. I would have selected one with a matching coil to run 12v and either bypass the resister or wire it off a pertronix relay. Personal preference. Understand your question though
What is the static timing on a 289
If it didn’t have a resister on it and gets hooked up what would happen
If coil is not properly matched, overheat in the long run. Highly unlikely with a modern coil. Old one, yes.
Hey Alf can u help me out.. i have a 66 mustang w a 289 eldenbrock 1406 at. Last week i set timing at 11* and moved the accelerator setting to the middle hole. She ran beautifully but yesterday i started her up and she is running so rough.. and dies when i put her in gear.. she has pertronix ignition, new spark plug cables. She has 5psi on fuel pressure.. she sits alot so I'm thinking fuel / carb problems??? What do u suggest?. Any help is appreciated.. Thank u
Well these things are always hard to pin point over a keyboard. But does it have a large vacuum leak? Do you have a vacuum gauge? If not, I suggest investing in one and getting a vacuum reading off the engine as a starting point.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yes sir i do have one.. i used it not long ago to adjust air/fuel screws.. I'm thinking it was like 16 1/2 inches.. ok i will put the gauge on..also i bought some carb cleaner to spray and ck for leak. I'll let u know 😁 thanks
Good morning Alf.. hey it turned out to b a vacuum leak on the auto transmission vacuum line.. there was no apparent crack but when i held it in my hand and sprayed it carb cleaner the engine stumbled..btw the vacuum is at like @ 17 1/2.. Thanks for your help 👍
Oh awesome, glad to hear you figured it out!
Why didn't you show your timing mark flash
The camera won't pickup the timing light because of the playback frame rate.
There's over 1,000,000 Ford 5.0s out there being turned into 289s for lack of availability..
NOT ONE place in 35 years has made a retro distributor to fit the 5.0 ( the oil pump drive is
1/2" longer is all).. Not pretronix or mallory or msd or or or.. Odd how no one will make that
'unilite' to fit a 5.0 block. all other 289 parts will fit the engine.
I'm not sure what you mean. There are plenty of distributors being made for 5.0 engines. Please explain how the 5.0 is being made into a 289 because of the disstributor.
WHY would you orient the no 1 cylinder 160 ish deg away from pointing AT THE NO clylinder?
your wires are all discimboblualted that way.
why not point the rotor so you have the shortest direct neatest path for as many wires as possible?
my 76 F150 has pretty neat wiring, maybe could be neater with custom length wires and it would look professionally done.
BUT even as it is with stock looms holding my wires in place i can confidently pull all my plug wires easily w/o knowing firing order or anything cuz theyre all oriented and lay flat with min criss crosses
Those are not the biggest pieces crap, but this not the 80s.
Great video! You don't need to unplug the vacuum hose to time the new distributor? Or was is warm enough that it wasn't effecting it? I want to do that mod to my 67.
Thank you! So I didn't talk much about setting the timing in this video but I'll try to give you a quick run down. When you have your distributor connected to the correct port (which is the ported vacuum port), it shouldn't be pulling a vacuum on the advance unless you have your idle set too high. So typically what I will do is set my idle fairly low to elimate any sort of mechanical advancement or vacuum advancement. You can also remove the line when doing this but it just shoudn't have any vacuum on that until the throttle plates start to open up. Then I will set my desired timing and then adjust my idle air misture screws and then finalize the idle setting.
That car is absolutely spotless why do you have gloves on if you're worried about get your hands dirty you should have been a doctor maybe hey
The gloves are not meant to protect my hands from the car. They are meant to protect the car from my hands.