Thanks Alf, I wasn't confident to tackle this but after watching your video, I bought the seals, pan gasket and filter and knocked it over in 2 hours. Thanks again,. 10/10.
We are here to keep your classic Mustang on the road and out of your garage. Subscribe to the channel and click on the notification bell. ua-cam.com/channels/Zi2JnDfxDHwqJoxJzFnIlA.html
EASIER THAN I THOUGHT, except my passing gear arm got stuck & had to drop the pan and losen the valve body again & get it in place, easy peezy. Thanks Alf for this video, helped greatly.
This helped so much while trying to figure out how to replace this seal in my Mustang. It looks so complicated but it so easy! Who knew? 10/10 video thanks so much!
Alf, this video was SO helpful! I watched it twice , took notes, and then replaced the pan gasket and shift linkage seals in my '74 Gran Torino this weekend. THANK YOU
@@AlfsMustangGarage I was quoted 150-200$ that was trans in the truck. It’s a 302/c4 in a bagged ford ranger. I told them I was going to provide a new trans pan as well because I’m afraid mine is warped.
Oh ya that's actually pretty reasonable for a shop. But way cool you want to tackle it yourself. The seal I have a link for in the comments on this video if you ever order from Amazon.
I'd love to see how to replace the Output Shaft Seal on the C4. That and the shift shaft seal on my 68 are marking all over my driveway. :-) Also, I really like your presentation style. Very clear and informative. Something a lot of UA-camrs could learn from.
Aww! I wish I had a video in the works for the outputshaft seal. I actually have one I'm going to upload tonight on the tailshaft and servo cover but those dang outputshaft seals are way common. They are pretty easy once you see someone do it too. Next chance I get, I will definately film one. I really appreciate the comment too, gives me motivation and encouragement that I'm doing something right.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I would say that I'd bring my 68 to you so you could use it for filming the replacement, but I'm pretty sure I'd end up broken down on the side of the road somewhere between here (OK) and there. :-)
If you were only closer! I appreciate the the thought and I will film it next opportunity. Just subscribe if you haven't already and then you'll be able to see when I get it out 👍
Dude! Thank you! No way was the shop manual going to get me through this (I don't even find a description)! Especially valuable were the comments about engaging the kickdown and shift pawls inside the tranny on reassembly--the description of the kickdown-spring resistance and of being able to see the shift pawl from below saved gigawatts of cussing! Your throwing away the rubber pan gasket made me feel better about dumping mine, too! As others have said, the clear, step-by-step demonstration and explanation are the best!
Wow thank you for the comment. Glad I could help. I know this repair and be intimidating so I definitely tried to get the best looks I could. So did you already complete yours or just about to tear into it?
@@AlfsMustangGarage Well, it wasn't any two hours--more like four--but I did knock it out today. I'm letting the Ultra Black cure before filling. My fingers are crossed that there aren't other leaks (and that the old ones don't persist), but I feel good about getting the trans apart and back together correctly!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Weather and travel delayed the trial run, but filled and run to operating temperature, then taken around the neighborhood--and no leaks! Thanks again.
Alf great videos. I watched both the C4 fluid change and shift shaft seal change. I have a street rod with a 302 and a C4 transmission that came out of a late 60's Mustang. I bought the filter kit you referred to and got the a wrong filter. Your 2 videos each have a different filter. The shifter shaft seal video has a filter with a tab on the side that holds a spring up into the valve body. I was fortunate to get an Advance Auto manager that had some Ford experience. He searched around until he found the filter listed for a Mustang II transmission that had the spring retention tab shown on his picture. He ordered that filter kit. It had the correct filter. You can be seen on the shifter shaft seal video reinstalling the spring as you put the filter on. You might mention that there are 2 C4 screens. I did see a comment in the shifter shaft video was made that it looked like you "palmed" a part that came down as you removed the filter.
Thanks Patrick! Ya Ford is famous for changing things up on their components through the years. I will research and add different part numbers for my links. I think the transmission out of this particular Mustang was actually a later model (1977 I believe) because it was actually converted from a manual trans at some point in life. Thank you for the detailed comments.
Okay I have updated the links for the transmission filters on both of those videos. So the style without the little tab to hold the spring in was used on the C4 till 1969. In 1970 they changed the style and ran that till looks like 1981. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting. I'm looking to do the same on a Fordomatic but I'm sure the process is about the same. I appreciate you pointing out a few things to watch for along the way.
I know this is older video but thank you so much! I went to install a nss on my 67 mustang, previous owner jumped the connection. It’s definitely a 70’s C4 and shaft is not slotted. By the looks of it I need to put in a shaft for a 67 and add a new linkage rod to have it line up correctly.
Thanks for the great video. Just wanted to share a problem I had in the event I'm not the only one who is special. When I loosened the inside bolt for the shift shaft the interior parts came loose and out of place. When I reassembled everything the top piece that was connected to the park pawl pressed against the rear end of the park pawl so when I tried to operate the shifter nothing would move. It took me quite a while to figure out that the top part of the shift shaft when under the vertical end of the park pawl. Aside from that everything went great and I appreciate the video.
I'm working on mine right now. Later this evening I'll be tackling the shift shaft seal and o-rings. Hopefully it goes smoothly. First time working on a C4.
Ran into a no start no crank issue on our 68" you've helped with...Safety control switch replacement led to a bigger problem...this video confirmed my suspicion that the downshift detent had somehow slipped off the shaft. Basically the entire shaft could be slid out from the exterior of the box. I think over tightened the nut that snugs the Safety Neutral switch down and messed it up. I'll be digging into it tomorrow ;0
@@AlfsMustangGarageok…it was good to replace the NSS and Shifter Shaft Seal, as well as drop and drain the pan, but my no start issue traced back to a wiring splice behind the dash panel. Thanks to your recommended wiring diagrams, it helped me find the culprit and she’s running beautifully again! Thanks for all the awesome instruction!
Ok, when after procrastinating this job I finally started it.....thanks to your excellent instructions n my way. Only question I have it the park pawl os just free floating up there, right? thanks a million!@@AlfsMustangGarage
I sure like when someone makes a video for these projects that you don't do every day. Sure makes a guy feel better about diving in on pulling that valve body knowing there won't be a big surprise falling out. Or little surprise that you don't know where it came from or went in your gravel driveway.
@@AlfsMustangGarage well I restored the whole car from the ground up n rebuilt the engine so I might as well fix the leaky trans in the process, determination is what does it for me.
I'm about to install the shift linkage and throttle, so this video helped a lot. I also had to clean my engine head bolts as the threads had grime. I used a brass wheel on a Dremel to clean the threads and now the threads look clean. Don't know if I need to lubricate the threads before installing them into the engine head.
You don't want to lubricate the threads on the head bolts. You want them to be clean and dry. You have a 6 cylinder right? Have you watched my cylinder head install video? The 6 cylinder engines have some bolt holes that pass into coolant jackets. Those bolt threads need to be coated in thread sealer.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yes I watched that episode. I have a bottle of white thread sealant that I will use on some bolts where the passages go through the coolant channels .
Thumbs UP, Nice presentation... If I recall correctly, isn't there like a "small SPRING & Ball" that will fall out, When you pull that transmission filter/ Screen off? The last time I did a Ford C4, was in 1966, so I'm a little rusty! :-)). I still have a Ford Top Loader Trans, in the shop & 3 New 351W Roller Short Blocks, and 1 NEW LONG-LONG BLOCK 302 H.O. My brother worked for FoMCO, we purchased 10 Short block... Early 1990 engine. Let me know about that SPRING & BALL.
Oh awesome. Yes there is a small spring under a tab of the filter. I show it very briefly going back in on this video. I was in time-lapse during that part. However, the spring is not on all C4 transmissions. I believe that started in 69. I may be wrong about the year but I do know the early ones did not have it.
Is the neutral safety switch fitted correctly? On mine, it's upside down to this, not sure which is the right way up? It starts in neutral but not in park
Mine is installed incorrectly actually. Strangely enough I didn't catch it but that's how this one came in to me and it's actually functional. If yours doesn't start in park, they are adjustable so you could play with the adjustment.
@@AlfsMustangGarage right. I'll take a look at my switch. My C4 is fitted to a British '70 Ford zodiac, there are a few differences (e.g. the linkage) but mostly the same, which is why I wondered if my switch was the wrong way round.
Hi Alf, great, clear video! My 65 Mustang apparently was a manual then replaced with an automatic transmission. Probably because of that the previous owner concocted a contraption using the Z-bar to control the shift shaft . As I tried to replace all that with regular shift rod I noticed that the shift shaft is rotated 180 degree . Question: seems to me I need to do all the work you so well showed in this video and properly mount the shift shaft. Am I right?
So if this car was converted to an auto from a manual, and the shift shaft is facing the opposite direction, it's likely because that particular transmission came from a car that had a column shifter rather than the floor shifter. Lots of ford cars had column shifters so that's what I would suspect. You'll want to actually change the shaft to the correct one.
Hi Alf, I’m in the middle of this - is it 8 quarts of F that you put in, 5 first, then add after operating temp to get to above the ADD line on dipstick? Thank you! Great video!
So what I have found is if you try to put in the initial 5, you will get fluid coming out of the vent port. The pans on these don't hold a whole lot. So if you put in 3, start the engine for maybe 5-8 seconds just to circulate the fluid, then you can add more until you are reading full at operating temp.
Great instructional. I noticed you held up a screen looking spring thing that you installed in a hole just before reinstalling the transmission filter. What was that and did that come out when you removed the filter? It did look like you palmed something before reaching for the filter gasket, but I could not tell. Thanks for the awesome filming as well.
Thank you! I'm actually not 100% sure what that spring was but it did come out and was being held in with the transmission filter. This trans was a little later model I believe. If I remember correctly it was a 77 year c4 and all the older ones I've done from the 60's don't have that little spring.
I also had a peg which I put facing down under the spring and above the filter. I hope its correct. I will find out. Well the magician I am fixing it for will find out and tell me. Ha!
So the Peg goes in facing down atop the spring into the valve body then the filter covers it up. On the G100 mail truck, I didnt even need to remove the filter because there were no hidden 7/16th bolts under there. Just one 7/16th holding the filter in place with the other smaller bolts that hold the filter in place. Hope this helps anyone trying it on their own. Btw, it is awful not doing this on a lift, and pay strict attention to the install tip and push the selector rod all the way out and line it up like it shows in the last part of the video. Otherwise, it wont shift thru the gears and may only remain in drive or not line up at all. Great video, and it is doable, but may take you all day the first time you do it.
I’m hoping you see this comment soon. Why does your link for purchasing at Amazon say for a c5 seal when your video description says c4? I going to not buy the wrong parts. Thanks for the video
Ok, thanks Amazons description in the detail says c5 after you put the item in your cart. The detailed description in the small box that pops up. Note: CONTROL LEVER SET; CONTROL SHAFT; C5 TRANSC5 transmission. Let’s hope it fits..
Hey Alf, I'm a novice and this video really helped me get this done on my 66 Mustang. No more leaks from the shift selector shaft! I did my pan gasket, but I noticed the areas around the bolt holes on my pan were pretty blown out from overtightening, so I am having leaking issues from there still. Is the easiest thing to do just to buy a replacement pan? I also have a leak from the post-looking thing adjacent to the neutral safety switch. From what I have researched, I believe it is a band adjustment? Do you know of any way to stop that leak? Thanks again!
Hey John! Comments like this is what really keeps me motivated to keep making helpful videos so I really appreciate you taking the time to watch, subscribe, and comment. So I would absolutely recommend a replacement transmission pan if the old one is too far warped. I've been able to put those on a flat surface and hammer them back into place before but sometimes, its just nice to start over with a fresh piece of metal. The post just up from the neutral safety switch is indeed a band adjustment and the nuts on those are specialty nuts that are made with rubber seals in them. You'll have to simply remove that nut and replace it with a new one without turning the actual adjustment post. If you type in "C4 transmission band adjusting nut" into Google, you'll see lots of options on Ebay and other websites that sell those. There are 2 nuts that are like that, one on the front left and one on the right rear of the transmission. Might as well get 2 and knock them both out.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I could not have tackled this job without you, really appreciate you taking the time to create these videos. It is a huge deal for people like me that want to do this stuff, but just don't have the experience. Thank you for the tips, I'll get a new pan and those nuts and hopefully stop the leaks!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Wanted to circle back here, I saw you just posted a new video on the band adjustment nuts. I replaced the nuts and got a new pan, and no more murder scene on my floor. Thanks again for the help!
Thank you so much Alf for your video. I have the exact same transmission mated to a 200 inline six that I installed in my 64 Falcon. I have a column shift in my Falcon, can you please instruct me how to link my 64 Falcon column shift to a 66 C4 transmission that uses a floor shifter?
You're very welcome. So you would have to go through this same procedure, except you need to swap out the existing shift shaft for one that is for a column shifter. Essentially, they look the same except the outside lever points towards the front of the car rather than the rear.
@@AlfsMustangGarage would you know of a source or a part number I might try? This is my first attempt at car mechanics so any help/advice is greatly appreciated. I’m thinking outside the box here but would it be easier on a novice to install a floor shifter in my Falcon than try to retrofit the transmission to a column shifter
Well I suppose you can the the path that you think is easier. You'll have to either retrofit the floor or retrofit the transmission. The car currently has a column shifter so I would think before you cut a hole in the floor it would be worth a quick ebay search for a C4 column shift shaft on a c4.
Hello, nice video.appreciate your help.the mustang we are working on has had this done before and is missing the small bushing on the kickdown lever. the lever slides in and out and leaks since it is not secure against the oring. any chance you could give me measurements on that part to have one made or a part number to find one? thanks
Thank you. Check out this link from National Parts Depot and tell me if that is what you're looking for. www.npdlink.com/product/bushing-accelerator-rod-and-kickdown-rod/146198?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dkickdown%252Bcable%252Bassy%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1965&year=1965
Hey Alf the rod piece broke on my c4 but I don’t know the proper name so I can order it .its not the kick down rod it’s the other one in your 1966 c4 seal repair you pointed to it
@josemelis4153 I believe you can get them from National Parts Depot. It seems to me that it usually takes 5 quarts to fill them back up. Problem is you can only install 3 quarts at a time otherwise you puke out the overflow vent. You have to start with 3 quarts, start your engine in NEUTRAL and run it for 10 seconds to circulate and then add the 4th quart and then start your engine and check fluid while running to top off from there.
Looking to tackle this soon on my 65. One thing to note, when I changed my filter a bit ago I did not note a spring that came out of the hole like at the end there. What is that exactly? Could mine have just been stuck up there? I know it didn't fall out.
Ford is known to have small design changes to their parts throughout the years. Yours likely doesn't have that spring because it's an earlier C4. The one in this particular car was a later model C4, 72 if my memory serves me right. I think they made this design change in 69.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Makes sense. I've run into a lot of weird slightly different things with my car like vacuum fittings that only 5 cars ever seem to have had haha. Spare parts were in short supply in 65. I JUST got the car on the road for the first time since November today, so I'll let it leak a little bit before I tackle this.
I did it exactly as your video shows step by step, at the end now i have no park, where park was i now have reverse, where reverse was is now neutral and so forth, any ideas on how to adjust it wiothout starting allover again? thanks!!
Is it possible for the kickdown O-ring to leak and not the actual shifter shaft seal? My transmission was rebuilt by a pro racing builder, and the car has very little miles since the trans was built. It is a project car and may only see ten miles a year if that, test driving, etc. The point being all of this stuff was replaced about 10-20 miles ago, and has mainly been sitting. Then all of a sudden, a leak at either the shaft or the kickdown O-ring. I am already a pro at dropping the valve body over the last five years, through a botched rebuild from another shop on another transmission I still own, then again on this one a couple of times, since it had a column shift hookup, and I needed a floor shift type. I guess I could try the O-ring and see if it stops, right?
Awesome video!! I have to replace a column shift shaft on a C4 I got for my Mustang. I bought the $110 selector and the seal, the inner o-ring, is that just a general o-ring size? Or something very specific? Thanks!!!
Hi Alf, thank you for response- my problem is I can’t get the car/ transmission to engage in reverse or drive/ forward. It will start in P and N but that is it. Could I have messed with the kicked down linkage - the shifter moves and clicks through Green dot, solid dot low R etc but no movement- engagement. Thank you for any help!
Yes its designed to only start in park or neutral. The actual engagement into drive and reverse can be inhibited by low fluid. So do you have enough fluid in it?
Hi Alf. Thank you so much for the great material are you producing. I have a 66 mustang with c4 transmission that did not come with the kick down cable. I purchased one but I cannot properly connect the kick down lever to the selectors shaft. I am missing some kind of insulator or spacer. Do you know where I can purchase the o-ring and bushing you have shown in your video?
First problem I have is the nut! How does tightening it not keep the the control lever from not moving? How does one shift gears if the lever is tightened?
Great video. If I have an older f150 with a 3.8 trans in it would i potentially be able to use the shaft from the f150 trans to work with the existing linkage, or would they not be compatible? Already did the swap and now stuck
This particular car has been sitting for many years. So the internals stay well lubricated and the external ones tend to dry out. So it doesn't necessarily mean the whole thing needs rebuilt.
Hey Alf, sooo... I put 3 quarts of F in started it, to circulate, and then checked dipstick. Added a little more. But when I started it in park, and then checked to see if I could start in nuetral, which worked; however now I don’t have reverse or Drive. I’m concerned, what now. I don’t hear any transmission engagement! Could it be an adjustment needed on neutral safety switch or am I back to dropping everything to see why it’s not engaging? Hope I didn’t fry my transmission. Thanks for any help!!!!
So just to further explain, you can only get so much in at once or else the fluid comes out the vent. So I will typically add 3, start the engine for 6-8 seconds, shut the engine off. I will add fluid till it reads full on the dipstick. I then start the engine for 6-8 seconds and then shut off. This is just circulating the fluid to get it through the system so you can add more. I do this till it no longer is dropping fluid. Then I start the engine and check the dipstick with the engine running. At that point I will add fluid with the engine running till it reads full on the dipstick.
Hi Alf, I’m so confused now. I just started it, and turned it off. And put the car in neutral, checked the dipstick snd it is not registering any fluid... I tracked what came out and it is a little over 5 1/2 quarts. Will lack of fluid not allow the car to engage in reverse or drive? ThAnk you snd sorry for Multiple questions Much appreciated.
My apologies, lets try to get on the same page. If you have 4 quarts in it and you just did the shift shaft seal, you should be safe to start it and let it run. With the engine running in park, you need to check the dipstick. Fill the transmission till it reads full while idling in park. The fluid is what creates the hydraulic pressure to drive the car forward or backward. Too low of fluid will prevent the car from driving.
Mrs Richards: "I paid for a room with a view !" Basil: (pointing to the lovely view) "That is Torquay, Madam." Mrs Richards: "It's not good enough!" Basil: "May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? the Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically past?..." Mrs Richards: "Don't be silly! I expect to be able to see the sea!" Basil: "You can see the sea, it's over there between the land and the sky." Mrs Richards: "I'm not satisfied. But I shall stay. But I expect a reduction." Basil: "Why?! Because Krakatoa's not erupting at the moment?"
Alf, what is the filter part number(link). I have 1967 mustang with C4 auto transmission but it has the same filter on this video. Curious if transmission you showed is from a 1970.
i have a c4 with out the nss it has a b&m shifter with the connections on it but im replacing it with new oem wiring any tips on installing a nss for the first time
So the last time I installed a b&m shifter, the neutral safety and reverse light switches were on the shifter itself rather than on the trans. Is that how it is on yours?
@@AlfsMustangGarage im going origonal but cant see to find the correct wire placement for the nss on the dash harness those 4 wires dont seem to be labeled
Hi Alf, I noticed a bit of leaking atf between the bell housing and the tran pan. Any suggestions to a cause? I thought it was my pan , but the fluid seems up towards housing connection Thanks
Well I would look closely at the dipstick tube. Those have a tendency to get the best of us and they can appear to be coming from elsewhere. If its actually coming from between the bell and case and coming down the pan, it could be the front pump seal. Not too common from what I see but they can start leaking.
Hey, I got a question. That’s really out of the transmition area. I just wanted to know why is my Mustang 1964 six running so hot after I put aluminum radiator and electrical fan the fan is facing out
Facing out? So its on the front of the outside of the radiator and not the engine bay side? How many CFM does it push? Is it a push fan or a pull fan? Did you set it up to push air in being on the outside? When does it get hot? Sitting in traffic at a light or while cruising?
I changed the rear seal and the dip stick seal months ago. A guy told me an inside seal is bad and lets the trans leak down into the pan over a week and over fills the pan. he said start it up every other day to keep it from doing that. but i hate doing quick starts and not driving it to warm up fully. what you think a trans shop would charge to fix leaks. it shifts fine. @@AlfsMustangGarage
![[UA] Team Vitality проти NAVI | IEM Cologne 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wttO1zVRTC0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Alf, I wasn't confident to tackle this but after watching your video, I bought the seals, pan gasket and filter and knocked it over in 2 hours. Thanks again,. 10/10.
Oh awesome! Glad to hear that. Thanks for sharing and subscribing!
Hey budd I ran into this my edngine is showing 210 on the temperature Rado in my redhead is showing 125
We are here to keep your classic Mustang on the road and out of your garage. Subscribe to the channel and click on the notification bell. ua-cam.com/channels/Zi2JnDfxDHwqJoxJzFnIlA.html
Did this repair yesterday that’s for the video Alf! Can’t believe I did it with out any major issues! No more leaks!
Oh awesome! Glad to hear!
Love how you take the time to explain everything...very educational! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for commenting. Glad you enjoyed it.
I've been rebuilding C-4 transmissions 46 years but haven't had to do this for awhile but i don't miss it 😂
oh awesome, you must be quite acquainted with these then?
EASIER THAN I THOUGHT, except my passing gear arm got stuck & had to drop the pan and losen the valve body again & get it in place, easy peezy. Thanks Alf for this video, helped greatly.
You're very welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
This helped so much while trying to figure out how to replace this seal in my Mustang. It looks so complicated but it so easy! Who knew? 10/10 video thanks so much!
You're very welcome. I'm glad to hear it was helpful!
Alf, this video was SO helpful! I watched it twice , took notes, and then replaced the pan gasket and shift linkage seals in my '74 Gran Torino this weekend. THANK YOU
Oh awesome! Glad you found it helpful! Thank you for sharing.
One of the best 'how to' videos i've seen for my classic mustang. Thanks for sharing. I've been putting this job off, but this overview made it easy.
Awesome! Ya I find a lot of things can be overwhelming until you get a good look of how to do it. Good luck with your repair!
Was hesitant to take this job on myself, even called local trans shop and got a quote. But after this video I know I can do this myself. Thank you!
Heck ya! Just take your time, you got this. I'm curious as to what shops are quoting now a days?
@@AlfsMustangGarage I was quoted 150-200$ that was trans in the truck. It’s a 302/c4 in a bagged ford ranger. I told them I was going to provide a new trans pan as well because I’m afraid mine is warped.
Oh ya that's actually pretty reasonable for a shop. But way cool you want to tackle it yourself. The seal I have a link for in the comments on this video if you ever order from Amazon.
Nice job but why u didn't change band adjuster seals why valve body was out. They were leaking too
I did, just didn't film that.
I'd love to see how to replace the Output Shaft Seal on the C4. That and the shift shaft seal on my 68 are marking all over my driveway. :-) Also, I really like your presentation style. Very clear and informative. Something a lot of UA-camrs could learn from.
Aww! I wish I had a video in the works for the outputshaft seal. I actually have one I'm going to upload tonight on the tailshaft and servo cover but those dang outputshaft seals are way common. They are pretty easy once you see someone do it too. Next chance I get, I will definately film one. I really appreciate the comment too, gives me motivation and encouragement that I'm doing something right.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I would say that I'd bring my 68 to you so you could use it for filming the replacement, but I'm pretty sure I'd end up broken down on the side of the road somewhere between here (OK) and there. :-)
If you were only closer! I appreciate the the thought and I will film it next opportunity. Just subscribe if you haven't already and then you'll be able to see when I get it out 👍
Dude! Thank you! No way was the shop manual going to get me through this (I don't even find a description)! Especially valuable were the comments about engaging the kickdown and shift pawls inside the tranny on reassembly--the description of the kickdown-spring resistance and of being able to see the shift pawl from below saved gigawatts of cussing! Your throwing away the rubber pan gasket made me feel better about dumping mine, too! As others have said, the clear, step-by-step demonstration and explanation are the best!
Wow thank you for the comment. Glad I could help. I know this repair and be intimidating so I definitely tried to get the best looks I could. So did you already complete yours or just about to tear into it?
@@AlfsMustangGarage Well, it wasn't any two hours--more like four--but I did knock it out today. I'm letting the Ultra Black cure before filling. My fingers are crossed that there aren't other leaks (and that the old ones don't persist), but I feel good about getting the trans apart and back together correctly!
That's cool! I hope it all works out great!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Weather and travel delayed the trial run, but filled and run to operating temperature, then taken around the neighborhood--and no leaks! Thanks again.
Alf great videos. I watched both the C4 fluid change and shift shaft seal change. I have a street rod with a 302 and a C4 transmission that came out of a late 60's Mustang. I bought the filter kit you referred to and got the a wrong filter. Your 2 videos each have a different filter. The shifter shaft seal video has a filter with a tab on the side that holds a spring up into the valve body. I was fortunate to get an Advance Auto manager that had some Ford experience. He searched around until he found the filter listed for a Mustang II transmission that had the spring retention tab shown on his picture. He ordered that filter kit. It had the correct filter. You can be seen on the shifter shaft seal video reinstalling the spring as you put the filter on. You might mention that there are 2 C4 screens. I did see a comment in the shifter shaft video was made that it looked like you "palmed" a part that came down as you removed the filter.
Thanks Patrick! Ya Ford is famous for changing things up on their components through the years. I will research and add different part numbers for my links. I think the transmission out of this particular Mustang was actually a later model (1977 I believe) because it was actually converted from a manual trans at some point in life. Thank you for the detailed comments.
Okay I have updated the links for the transmission filters on both of those videos. So the style without the little tab to hold the spring in was used on the C4 till 1969. In 1970 they changed the style and ran that till looks like 1981. Thanks again!
Yeah don't forget those gloves!! Nice work as always!
😜😜😜
Thanks for posting. I'm looking to do the same on a Fordomatic but I'm sure the process is about the same. I appreciate you pointing out a few things to watch for along the way.
You're very welcome. Should be pretty dang similar with minor differences.
I know this is older video but thank you so much! I went to install a nss on my 67 mustang, previous owner jumped the connection. It’s definitely a 70’s C4 and shaft is not slotted. By the looks of it I need to put in a shaft for a 67 and add a new linkage rod to have it line up correctly.
Oh ya it could have also been from a different ford vehicle with a different type of shifter.
Thanks for the great video. Just wanted to share a problem I had in the event I'm not the only one who is special. When I loosened the inside bolt for the shift shaft the interior parts came loose and out of place. When I reassembled everything the top piece that was connected to the park pawl pressed against the rear end of the park pawl so when I tried to operate the shifter nothing would move. It took me quite a while to figure out that the top part of the shift shaft when under the vertical end of the park pawl. Aside from that everything went great and I appreciate the video.
The best part about working on a C4 is that when it’s all said and done it still leaks.
I'm working on mine right now. Later this evening I'll be tackling the shift shaft seal and o-rings. Hopefully it goes smoothly. First time working on a C4.
Good luck! Take your time and keep everything organized and you'll be just fine.
Ran into a no start no crank issue on our 68" you've helped with...Safety control switch replacement led to a bigger problem...this video confirmed my suspicion that the downshift detent had somehow slipped off the shaft. Basically the entire shaft could be slid out from the exterior of the box. I think over tightened the nut that snugs the Safety Neutral switch down and messed it up. I'll be digging into it tomorrow ;0
Oh dang! Keep me posted on what you find. Hopefully an easy fix!
@@AlfsMustangGarageok…it was good to replace the NSS and Shifter Shaft Seal, as well as drop and drain the pan, but my no start issue traced back to a wiring splice behind the dash panel. Thanks to your recommended wiring diagrams, it helped me find the culprit and she’s running beautifully again!
Thanks for all the awesome instruction!
Great video on this, have to replace mine on 66 in next few days. the indside piece snapped off rod.
Thank you! Oh geeze best of luck to ya!
Ok, when after procrastinating this job I finally started it.....thanks to your excellent instructions n my way. Only question I have it the park pawl os just free floating up there, right? thanks a million!@@AlfsMustangGarage
I sure like when someone makes a video for these projects that you don't do every day. Sure makes a guy feel better about diving in on pulling that valve body knowing there won't be a big surprise falling out. Or little surprise that you don't know where it came from or went in your gravel driveway.
Exactly! It's very nice to have access to this stuff at your fingertips.
just di sd this today. was difficult lining it up, so I put it in neutral and was able to line everything up. thanks
You're welcome! Glad to hear you got it done.
Nice job with the info on this video!
Thank you very much!
Very detailed 👌 thank you!
You're very welcome
Thanks Alf. Very helpful and well done video.
Thank you very much
Thanks a lot for sharing all the details
You're very welcome
Exactly the video I needed! Thanks!
You're very welcome!
👍 👍 👍
👍
THANK YOU,JUST WHAT I NEEDED TO SEE SINCE I HAVE MY ENGINE OUT, PROBABLY BE A BIT MORE DIFFICULT FOR ME SINCE I HAVE 1 ARM TO DO THIS.
Oh wow! Ya good luck.
@@AlfsMustangGarage well I restored the whole car from the ground up n rebuilt the engine so I might as well fix the leaky trans in the process, determination is what does it for me.
There ya go! If you've made it this far, you're doing something right. My hat's off to ya!
@@AlfsMustangGarage thank you, hell of a job n it's be fun from start to finish
I'm about to install the shift linkage and throttle, so this video helped a lot. I also had to clean my engine head bolts as the threads had grime. I used a brass wheel on a Dremel to clean the threads and now the threads look clean. Don't know if I need to lubricate the threads before installing them into the engine head.
You don't want to lubricate the threads on the head bolts. You want them to be clean and dry. You have a 6 cylinder right? Have you watched my cylinder head install video? The 6 cylinder engines have some bolt holes that pass into coolant jackets. Those bolt threads need to be coated in thread sealer.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yes I watched that episode. I have a bottle of white thread sealant that I will use on some bolts where the passages go through the coolant channels
.
Awesome. Thats the only time I put anything on cylinder head bolts.
Great work 👏
Thank you!
Thumbs UP, Nice presentation... If I recall correctly, isn't there like a "small SPRING & Ball" that will fall out, When you pull that transmission filter/ Screen off?
The last time I did a Ford C4, was in 1966, so I'm a little rusty! :-)). I still have a Ford Top Loader Trans, in the shop & 3 New 351W Roller Short Blocks, and 1 NEW LONG-LONG BLOCK 302 H.O. My brother worked for FoMCO, we purchased 10 Short block... Early 1990 engine. Let me know about that SPRING & BALL.
Oh awesome. Yes there is a small spring under a tab of the filter. I show it very briefly going back in on this video. I was in time-lapse during that part. However, the spring is not on all C4 transmissions. I believe that started in 69. I may be wrong about the year but I do know the early ones did not have it.
Great vireo Alf
You're welcome!
Super interesting video. Thank you
You're very welcome
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Is the neutral safety switch fitted correctly? On mine, it's upside down to this, not sure which is the right way up? It starts in neutral but not in park
Mine is installed incorrectly actually. Strangely enough I didn't catch it but that's how this one came in to me and it's actually functional. If yours doesn't start in park, they are adjustable so you could play with the adjustment.
@@AlfsMustangGarage right. I'll take a look at my switch.
My C4 is fitted to a British '70 Ford zodiac, there are a few differences (e.g. the linkage) but mostly the same, which is why I wondered if my switch was the wrong way round.
Oh ya I know for sure mine is technically wrong but still worked.
Hi Alf, great, clear video! My 65 Mustang apparently was a manual then replaced with an automatic transmission. Probably because of that the previous owner concocted a contraption using the Z-bar to control the shift shaft . As I tried to replace all that with regular shift rod I noticed that the shift shaft is rotated 180 degree . Question: seems to me I need to do all the work you so well showed in this video and properly mount the shift shaft. Am I right?
So if this car was converted to an auto from a manual, and the shift shaft is facing the opposite direction, it's likely because that particular transmission came from a car that had a column shifter rather than the floor shifter. Lots of ford cars had column shifters so that's what I would suspect. You'll want to actually change the shaft to the correct one.
Thank you
You're very welcome!
Great video. Did you do one replacing the servo seal and tail shaft housing?
I did. You have to be careful with the servo. Best to do those when the valve body is out.
You should mention torque specs. 80-120in lb for valve body and 12-16ft lb for oil pan.
Hi Alf, I’m in the middle of this - is it 8 quarts of F that you put in, 5 first, then add after operating temp to get to above the ADD line on dipstick? Thank you! Great video!
So what I have found is if you try to put in the initial 5, you will get fluid coming out of the vent port. The pans on these don't hold a whole lot. So if you put in 3, start the engine for maybe 5-8 seconds just to circulate the fluid, then you can add more until you are reading full at operating temp.
And yes Type-F trans fluid. Motorcraft if you can get your hands on some.
Thanks for posting, I need to do this to my 73 Pinto. I'm wondering if the shaft will clear the trans tunnel on the pinto.
you're very welcome. I'm unfamiliar with the Pintos so I wouldn't know.
Great instructional. I noticed you held up a screen looking spring thing that you installed in a hole just before reinstalling the transmission filter. What was that and did that come out when you removed the filter? It did look like you palmed something before reaching for the filter gasket, but I could not tell. Thanks for the awesome filming as well.
Thank you! I'm actually not 100% sure what that spring was but it did come out and was being held in with the transmission filter. This trans was a little later model I believe. If I remember correctly it was a 77 year c4 and all the older ones I've done from the 60's don't have that little spring.
I also had a peg which I put facing down under the spring and above the filter. I hope its correct. I will find out. Well the magician I am fixing it for will find out and tell me. Ha!
So the Peg goes in facing down atop the spring into the valve body then the filter covers it up. On the G100 mail truck, I didnt even need to remove the filter because there were no hidden 7/16th bolts under there. Just one 7/16th holding the filter in place with the other smaller bolts that hold the filter in place. Hope this helps anyone trying it on their own. Btw, it is awful not doing this on a lift, and pay strict attention to the install tip and push the selector rod all the way out and line it up like it shows in the last part of the video. Otherwise, it wont shift thru the gears and may only remain in drive or not line up at all. Great video, and it is doable, but may take you all day the first time you do it.
That spring and peg assist in shifting from 1st to second gear
Good information to ad. Thanks for commenting on that. And yes, I can imagine its not fun laying on your back trying to do this.
Hey, so I have a request. Can you do a c4 kick down cable install on a 67 ? Or at least show how one is installed?
I’m hoping you see this comment soon. Why does your link for purchasing at Amazon say for a c5 seal when your video description says c4? I going to not buy the wrong parts. Thanks for the video
I'm not sure where you saw the C5 but when I look at the listing, and plug in my vehicle as a 67 mustang, it states it fits a C4.
Ok, thanks
Amazons description in the detail says c5 after you put the item in your cart. The detailed description in the small box that pops up. Note:
CONTROL LEVER SET;
CONTROL SHAFT; C5 TRANSC5 transmission. Let’s hope it fits..
Well maybe it fits both. I know a lot of people have ordered that same part off my link and they never get returned. I guess that's a good sign.
Do you lube the seal and O ring with ATF before installing?
Yes I usually do and I lube the shaft as well. That was you don't risk any sorts of damage when installing the shaft.
Hey Alf, I'm a novice and this video really helped me get this done on my 66 Mustang. No more leaks from the shift selector shaft! I did my pan gasket, but I noticed the areas around the bolt holes on my pan were pretty blown out from overtightening, so I am having leaking issues from there still. Is the easiest thing to do just to buy a replacement pan? I also have a leak from the post-looking thing adjacent to the neutral safety switch. From what I have researched, I believe it is a band adjustment? Do you know of any way to stop that leak? Thanks again!
Hey John! Comments like this is what really keeps me motivated to keep making helpful videos so I really appreciate you taking the time to watch, subscribe, and comment. So I would absolutely recommend a replacement transmission pan if the old one is too far warped. I've been able to put those on a flat surface and hammer them back into place before but sometimes, its just nice to start over with a fresh piece of metal. The post just up from the neutral safety switch is indeed a band adjustment and the nuts on those are specialty nuts that are made with rubber seals in them. You'll have to simply remove that nut and replace it with a new one without turning the actual adjustment post. If you type in "C4 transmission band adjusting nut" into Google, you'll see lots of options on Ebay and other websites that sell those. There are 2 nuts that are like that, one on the front left and one on the right rear of the transmission. Might as well get 2 and knock them both out.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I could not have tackled this job without you, really appreciate you taking the time to create these videos. It is a huge deal for people like me that want to do this stuff, but just don't have the experience. Thank you for the tips, I'll get a new pan and those nuts and hopefully stop the leaks!
Sounds good! Glad I could help! I hope you get that thing all sealed up. Keep me posted.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Wanted to circle back here, I saw you just posted a new video on the band adjustment nuts. I replaced the nuts and got a new pan, and no more murder scene on my floor. Thanks again for the help!
You're very welcome, glad I could help.
Thank you so much Alf for your video. I have the exact same transmission mated to a 200 inline six that I installed in my 64 Falcon.
I have a column shift in my Falcon, can you please instruct me how to link my 64 Falcon column shift to a 66 C4 transmission that uses a floor shifter?
You're very welcome. So you would have to go through this same procedure, except you need to swap out the existing shift shaft for one that is for a column shifter. Essentially, they look the same except the outside lever points towards the front of the car rather than the rear.
@@AlfsMustangGarage would you know of a source or a part number I might try? This is my first attempt at car mechanics so any help/advice is greatly appreciated. I’m thinking outside the box here but would it be easier on a novice to install a floor shifter in my Falcon than try to retrofit the transmission to a column shifter
Well I suppose you can the the path that you think is easier. You'll have to either retrofit the floor or retrofit the transmission. The car currently has a column shifter so I would think before you cut a hole in the floor it would be worth a quick ebay search for a C4 column shift shaft on a c4.
Hello, nice video.appreciate your help.the mustang we are working on has had this done before and is missing the small bushing on the kickdown lever. the lever slides in and out and leaks since it is not secure against the oring. any chance you could give me measurements on that part to have one made or a part number to find one? thanks
Thank you. Check out this link from National Parts Depot and tell me if that is what you're looking for.
www.npdlink.com/product/bushing-accelerator-rod-and-kickdown-rod/146198?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dkickdown%252Bcable%252Bassy%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1965&year=1965
Hey Alf the rod piece broke on my c4 but I don’t know the proper name so I can order it .its not the kick down rod it’s the other one in your 1966 c4 seal repair you pointed to it
The shift shaft that is in the trans or the shift rod that goes from the trans to the floor shifter?
It’s the transmission one that’s in the valve body also how many quarts will I need to fill it back and I thank you sooo much Alf for listening
@josemelis4153 I believe you can get them from National Parts Depot. It seems to me that it usually takes 5 quarts to fill them back up. Problem is you can only install 3 quarts at a time otherwise you puke out the overflow vent. You have to start with 3 quarts, start your engine in NEUTRAL and run it for 10 seconds to circulate and then add the 4th quart and then start your engine and check fluid while running to top off from there.
Wow your awsome and I love you videos ever time I look to do something to my stand I look threw all of yours again ty
@josemelis4153 you're very welcome, glad to hear they are helpful.
Looking to tackle this soon on my 65.
One thing to note, when I changed my filter a bit ago I did not note a spring that came out of the hole like at the end there. What is that exactly? Could mine have just been stuck up there? I know it didn't fall out.
Ford is known to have small design changes to their parts throughout the years. Yours likely doesn't have that spring because it's an earlier C4. The one in this particular car was a later model C4, 72 if my memory serves me right. I think they made this design change in 69.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Makes sense. I've run into a lot of weird slightly different things with my car like vacuum fittings that only 5 cars ever seem to have had haha. Spare parts were in short supply in 65.
I JUST got the car on the road for the first time since November today, so I'll let it leak a little bit before I tackle this.
@FaustKnight awesome! Have to enjoy them at some point!
Thanks for this video Alf. That downshift shaft sleeve that goes against the o-ring is exactly what I need. Any idea of a part number, or dimensions?
exelente me ayudo mucho, gracias. desde costa rica
Thank you! All the way from Costa Rica?
I did it exactly as your video shows step by step, at the end now i have no park, where park was i now have reverse, where reverse was is now neutral and so forth, any ideas on how to adjust it wiothout starting allover again? thanks!!
If you disconnect the link that goes to the shifter, can you get it into park by manually pulling the lever on the trans?
Is it possible for the kickdown O-ring to leak and not the actual shifter shaft seal? My transmission was rebuilt by a pro racing builder, and the car has very little miles since the trans was built. It is a project car and may only see ten miles a year if that, test driving, etc. The point being all of this stuff was replaced about 10-20 miles ago, and has mainly been sitting. Then all of a sudden, a leak at either the shaft or the kickdown O-ring. I am already a pro at dropping the valve body over the last five years, through a botched rebuild from another shop on another transmission I still own, then again on this one a couple of times, since it had a column shift hookup, and I needed a floor shift type. I guess I could try the O-ring and see if it stops, right?
It's possible and is probably worth trying before you tear all the way into it.
Awesome video!! I have to replace a column shift shaft on a C4 I got for my Mustang. I bought the $110 selector and the seal, the inner o-ring, is that just a general o-ring size? Or something very specific? Thanks!!!
Thank you. Well it's specific to the size of the two shafts is all.
Hi Alf, thank you for response- my problem is I can’t get the car/ transmission to engage in reverse or drive/ forward. It will start in P and N but that is it. Could I have messed with the kicked down linkage - the shifter moves and clicks through Green dot, solid dot low R etc but no movement- engagement. Thank you for any help!
Yes its designed to only start in park or neutral. The actual engagement into drive and reverse can be inhibited by low fluid. So do you have enough fluid in it?
Hi Alf. Thank you so much for the great material are you producing. I have a 66 mustang with c4 transmission that did not come with the kick down cable. I purchased one but I cannot properly connect the kick down lever to the selectors shaft. I am missing some kind of insulator or spacer. Do you know where I can purchase the o-ring and bushing you have shown in your video?
I am currently on my way to the shop. I will look that up when I am in front of my computer. And you're very welcome!
You were correct Alf. The Neutral Safety Switch on my car is not correct (too thick). Good eyes my friend!
Oh wow! I'm glad you figured it out. I don't always catch things like that but a blind dog finds a bone every now and then 😂😂😂
Hello can you change the O-Ring on kickdown without going inside ?? I believe thats where my is leaking from .. Thx for your help
Yes you can. Just need to remove the neutral safety switch and kickdown link. Should be able to access that o-ring from there.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Ok i just ordered the O-Ring 😁👍 Thank U !
First problem I have is the nut! How does tightening it not keep the the control lever from not moving? How does one shift gears if the lever is tightened?
Great video. If I have an older f150 with a 3.8 trans in it would i potentially be able to use the shaft from the f150 trans to work with the existing linkage, or would they not be compatible? Already did the swap and now stuck
Thank you. I'm afraid I would not know the answer to that question.
It's time for a rebuild if everything is leaking don't you think? If the seals are leaking outside what are the seals inside like?
This particular car has been sitting for many years. So the internals stay well lubricated and the external ones tend to dry out. So it doesn't necessarily mean the whole thing needs rebuilt.
Hey Alf, sooo... I put 3 quarts of F in started it, to circulate, and then checked dipstick. Added a little more. But when I started it in park, and then checked to see if I could start in nuetral, which worked; however now I don’t have reverse or Drive. I’m concerned, what now. I don’t hear any transmission engagement! Could it be an adjustment needed on neutral safety switch or am I back to dropping everything to see why it’s not engaging? Hope I didn’t fry my transmission. Thanks for any help!!!!
So how many quarts total have you added?
So just to further explain, you can only get so much in at once or else the fluid comes out the vent. So I will typically add 3, start the engine for 6-8 seconds, shut the engine off. I will add fluid till it reads full on the dipstick. I then start the engine for 6-8 seconds and then shut off. This is just circulating the fluid to get it through the system so you can add more. I do this till it no longer is dropping fluid. Then I start the engine and check the dipstick with the engine running. At that point I will add fluid with the engine running till it reads full on the dipstick.
It sounds like you don't have enough fluid in it. What does it read on the stick with the engine off?
Is this the same for a 69 mustang? Did you have to special order the gaskets?
It should be pretty similar.
Where can I find the smaller O-ring for the outer shift shaft. What are the dimensions of this O-ring lip seal.
I have a link in the description for a kit off Amazon that sells the seal and o-ring. It's around $6 if I remember.
amzn.to/3otpAMW
Hi Alf, I’m so confused now. I just started it, and turned it off. And put the car in neutral, checked the dipstick snd it is not registering any fluid... I tracked what came out and it is a little over 5 1/2 quarts. Will lack of fluid not allow the car to engage in reverse or drive? ThAnk you snd sorry for Multiple questions
Much appreciated.
My apologies, lets try to get on the same page. If you have 4 quarts in it and you just did the shift shaft seal, you should be safe to start it and let it run. With the engine running in park, you need to check the dipstick. Fill the transmission till it reads full while idling in park. The fluid is what creates the hydraulic pressure to drive the car forward or backward. Too low of fluid will prevent the car from driving.
Thank you Alf! Much appreciated! I’ll report back once I have the fluid full!
Sounds good
Mrs Richards: "I paid for a room with a view !"
Basil: (pointing to the lovely view) "That is Torquay, Madam."
Mrs Richards: "It's not good enough!"
Basil: "May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? the Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically past?..."
Mrs Richards: "Don't be silly! I expect to be able to see the sea!"
Basil: "You can see the sea, it's over there between the land and the sky."
Mrs Richards: "I'm not satisfied. But I shall stay. But I expect a reduction."
Basil: "Why?! Because Krakatoa's not erupting at the moment?"
Alf, what is the filter part number(link). I have 1967 mustang with C4 auto transmission but it has the same filter on this video. Curious if transmission you showed is from a 1970.
This particular car I did not replace the filter. If I remember correctly, this transmission was from 1979
@@AlfsMustangGarage appreciate the help. Seems filter is for 1970 to 1981 C4/C5 transmissions. Thank you.
You're welcome
i have a c4 with out the nss it has a b&m shifter with the connections on it but im replacing it with new oem wiring any tips on installing a nss for the first time
So the last time I installed a b&m shifter, the neutral safety and reverse light switches were on the shifter itself rather than on the trans. Is that how it is on yours?
@@AlfsMustangGarage yes but theres the c4 nss on the trans and i have a total of 4 wires coming off the firwall to the harness under the dash
So which nss are you going to use? The original or the aftermarket? Either way use the original nss wires to the neutral safety switch.
@@AlfsMustangGarage im going origonal but cant see to find the correct wire placement for the nss on the dash harness those 4 wires dont seem to be labeled
What year is your car?
Hi Alf, I noticed a bit of leaking atf between the bell housing and the tran pan. Any suggestions to a cause?
I thought it was my pan , but the fluid seems up towards housing connection
Thanks
Well I would look closely at the dipstick tube. Those have a tendency to get the best of us and they can appear to be coming from elsewhere. If its actually coming from between the bell and case and coming down the pan, it could be the front pump seal. Not too common from what I see but they can start leaking.
Hey, I got a question. That’s really out of the transmition area. I just wanted to know why is my Mustang 1964 six running so hot after I put aluminum radiator and electrical fan the fan is facing out
Facing out? So its on the front of the outside of the radiator and not the engine bay side? How many CFM does it push? Is it a push fan or a pull fan? Did you set it up to push air in being on the outside? When does it get hot? Sitting in traffic at a light or while cruising?
My 73 pinto auto trans leaks when it sits for a week or so, don't seem to leak right after a drive. ? Pinto is C4 I think.
Sounds about right. C4 transmissions love to leak.
I changed the rear seal and the dip stick seal months ago. A guy told me an inside seal is bad and lets the trans leak down into the pan over a week and over fills the pan. he said start it up every other day to keep it from doing that. but i hate doing quick starts and not driving it to warm up fully. what you think a trans shop would charge to fix leaks. it shifts fine. @@AlfsMustangGarage
Hey Alf. Is this done in neutral or park?
Thanks
Park
dang I have to pull back apart kick down shaft is not aligned smh it doesn't rotate and is off by 90 degrees or so
Oh dang. Ya the inner arm has to rest on the kick down valve of the throttle body.
question do u not need a gasket between valve body and trans?
Nope.
Are you picking that car up from the body
Does this apply to a C6 also?
I would imagine it's similar. I don't get a lot if c6 transmissions.