thanks a million for the straight forward explanation, you've given me the bottle to do it myself and not pay a company that have been caught out in the past ,charging for jobs and not carrying out the work!
I'd like to add a few suggestions: 1) in case you want to change all coolant, there is a drain plug between the spark plugs and the oil filter, underneath the motor. 10mm spanner, it's a 6mm bolt with copper washer. 2) the cam cover bolts have round seals, make sure not to lose them, especially if you do your service on anything else than a clean surface. On a gravel or grassy underground they can easily get lost, which will result in a nasty oil spill. 3) the crank case cover on the left can be a bitch to loosen, insert the Allen key and tap it with a hammer, also it really needs only be tightened actually less than hand tight and even better apply some anti seize compound. 4) remember if in doubt, a bit too loose valve clearance is better than too tight. 5) measure the drained anti freeze and compare to the added amount, the motor tends to have air bubbles trapped that require some patience and revving the engine while refilling in order to get all trapped air out of the system. 6) if you lack basic knowledge about how the motor works and any mechanical skills don't do it yourself. The procedure is fairly straightforward if you know what you're doing but if you make a mistake it can potentially get costly. Safe rides 👍🏍🙏
I have two DOHC CB750's 1979 and 1981. I do all my own maintenance. I feel blessed that I don't have a puzzle box to disassemble in order to get near the engines.
They don’t build em like that anymore, puzzle box aside, the nc750x is a great blend of old school design with modern tech. An engine that can be worked on by the owner is what makes me love this motorcycle
this video was so extremely helpful, especially when there are 3 other videos on youtube that have the cylinders completely messed up. it's been pointed out in the comments on those videos but they don't bother to make corrections. It appears your video is the correct one. thank you for this!
Thank you for your video which helps make clearer where the clips are on the back of the radiator. I have a few comments though. Firstly, removing the spark plugs is a nice idea, but when you removed your plug leads a lot of dust flew out. It is a good idea if you can to remove any dust and debris before removing the plugs, ideally with compressed air, because you really don't want anything falling in to the cylinder. This is also the case with the rocker cover - your bike is well used and so has dust and flaking paintwork around the rocker cover, which you don't want in the engine. Secondly though you correctly say to rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise, when you move to T2 you appear to be rotating the shaft clockwise... The manual says to apply engine oil after slackening the lock nuts to lubricate the surface beneath the nut, as this is not lubricated in normal running. And if you use that much sealant it's likely to get in to your engine too. Perhaps this is why Honda just recommend replacing the gasket, but I know that's another £30 so if it's not really needed... Anyway, thanks again for sharing the video which at least helps clarify some things and is entertaining.
Thanks, Nick. This is, by far, the best video I've seen for valve adjustment on the NC. I'm going to be doing this on my NC in the near future, and feel better about doing it now. I've watched a few other videos on the valve clearance, and was going to tackle it with a bit of trepidation, but now feel more confident. Subscribed.
Thank you and I really appreciate the support, it helps me continue to make more vidoes like this. I myself couldn't find any clear ones on here so I decided to make one and fill in the missing gaps from previous videos. Thanks again. Ride safe
Excellent video very precise to the point and also included all torque specs nice to find a video that I don't have to watch bunch of and no rambling about other things
Quick question nick ...do you always rotate the engine counter clockwise to get the marks lined up or could you turn it clockwise . Or does it not matter ...I guess you have to turn it the same way it goes when it's actually going ? Cheers mark
Hej m8 nice video i have got nc700d 35000 km on clock i bought it at 25000 doing secon service. Sparks,oils,coolant, filters both air and for oil. This timeings and valve clearences is it the same i mean both engines look the same. Next i need to check the steereng main ball bearings and case whitch i amnnot familiar with. Than do reg maintance of the forks and dust seals i foundd this one also at your chanel...
Nick I have a 2014 exact twin of that bike,and I was going to try valve clearance myself after watching but that .08 gauge puzzled me for ages.your illustrations are 10/10 but this is a too serious to leave in video,don’t you think.😊
Hello how are you? I just now had my first breakdown on my nc750s (thermostatic valve) I started to feel that the engine was running hotter than normal and I turned on the fan constantly, I already changed it and it was TOP... such an insignificant part that it could give big headaches...Hug and good curves
How many miles were in this bike when you did this work? I assume that this was the first time the valve clearances were checked on this bike? Thanks for the great video.
Is your exhaust pipe custom? I've not seen a pipe that is just straight pipe with no can. Not even the Leo Vince header pipe that I've found is can-less.
Hallo Nick, are you self taught do you mind me asking. Also are there any motorcycle maintenance courses that yude recommend? I'm in England by the way so if there are courses I thought I'd mention that. That was a lot easier than a similar video on a 650 V-Strom I watched. The amount of the bike that needs dismantling is amazing!!
Thanks Nick. Can I ask, been rotating (repeatedly) to T1 only to find the 2nd (throttle side) cylinder inlets/outlets loose each time; and the same for T2 only to find the 1st (clutch side) loose. Am I missing something obvious or is my engine ass-backwards or something?
This bike and the Interceptor 650 seem to have easy valve adjustment procedures which make them both an attractive prospect for anyone who wants to avoid high service expenses. Which one do you like riding the most - the NC750X or the Interceptor 650?
This is going to sound like a silly comment but how do you read the feeler gauge numbers 0.17 _+ 0.2mm.... what gauge would that be the 0.2mm has thrown me my feeler gauge says 178mm 007inch is that correct. or do I need a better feller gauge
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353000214539?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nM5i5KiFSiO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_QCxPrBSSWS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Use this one, to get a 0.17mm reading double up 0.13 & 0.04 together on top of each other
I thought the Valve clearances would need doing at every 16,000 miles..Somewhere it said every 8,000 miles (I thought to myself that was too soon, or for older NC Models) ...My VFR800 and CBR BLACKBIRD was 16,000 miles too
Hi Nick thanks for the video. I followed all steps to get it adjusted but just after few hundreds km I believe it runs out of spec as the check engine light is on, the clear valve opening sound "ta-ta" diminished, engine seems overheating and difficult to start. Has anyone experienced this before? Please let me know. Thanks!
Only check when engine is cold. You may have an air lock in coolant system. Recheck, fill coolant, leave coolant cap off and let settle over night with cap off.
@@nicksepisode thanks for your reply. I gonna try your suggestions. Just a point to clarify, When we rotate the crank shaft counter clockwise to T1 and the 1 mark on cam sprocket were both aligned. Must we rotate another full 360 degree if the rocket arm has no free play?
@@nicksepisode hi Nick thanks for your reply. i watched your video again and it seems like your manual was different from mine. The cam shaft sprocket "1" mark in your manual says align to the bottom wheareas the manual i had said aligh "1" to the top of the engine with "t1" mark. I did my adjustment with "1" align on the cam sprocket last time.
My inspection cap was stuck and I had to pay to have it replaced after burring the hex hole. The new one is now also very stiff so Im worried about the same problem as the metal for the cap is very soft. I can't get it off Any ideas on how to remove it safely? Anyone else had this issue?
thanks a million for the straight forward explanation, you've given me the bottle to do it myself and not pay a company that have been caught out in the past ,charging for jobs and not carrying out the work!
Glad to help buddy
I'd like to add a few suggestions:
1) in case you want to change all coolant, there is a drain plug between the spark plugs and the oil filter, underneath the motor. 10mm spanner, it's a 6mm bolt with copper washer.
2) the cam cover bolts have round seals, make sure not to lose them, especially if you do your service on anything else than a clean surface. On a gravel or grassy underground they can easily get lost, which will result in a nasty oil spill.
3) the crank case cover on the left can be a bitch to loosen, insert the Allen key and tap it with a hammer, also it really needs only be tightened actually less than hand tight and even better apply some anti seize compound.
4) remember if in doubt, a bit too loose valve clearance is better than too tight.
5) measure the drained anti freeze and compare to the added amount, the motor tends to have air bubbles trapped that require some patience and revving the engine while refilling in order to get all trapped air out of the system.
6) if you lack basic knowledge about how the motor works and any mechanical skills don't do it yourself.
The procedure is fairly straightforward if you know what you're doing but if you make a mistake it can potentially get costly.
Safe rides 👍🏍🙏
Thanks for your input 👍
I have two DOHC CB750's 1979 and 1981. I do all my own maintenance. I feel blessed that I don't have a puzzle box to disassemble in order to get near the engines.
They don’t build em like that anymore, puzzle box aside, the nc750x is a great blend of old school design with modern tech. An engine that can be worked on by the owner is what makes me love this motorcycle
Lock nuts are 14nm not 30nm as mentioned in the video, sorry for the error.
this video was so extremely helpful, especially when there are 3 other videos on youtube that have the cylinders completely messed up. it's been pointed out in the comments on those videos but they don't bother to make corrections. It appears your video is the correct one. thank you for this!
Gald I could help 😀
Thank you for your video which helps make clearer where the clips are on the back of the radiator. I have a few comments though. Firstly, removing the spark plugs is a nice idea, but when you removed your plug leads a lot of dust flew out. It is a good idea if you can to remove any dust and debris before removing the plugs, ideally with compressed air, because you really don't want anything falling in to the cylinder. This is also the case with the rocker cover - your bike is well used and so has dust and flaking paintwork around the rocker cover, which you don't want in the engine. Secondly though you correctly say to rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise, when you move to T2 you appear to be rotating the shaft clockwise... The manual says to apply engine oil after slackening the lock nuts to lubricate the surface beneath the nut, as this is not lubricated in normal running. And if you use that much sealant it's likely to get in to your engine too. Perhaps this is why Honda just recommend replacing the gasket, but I know that's another £30 so if it's not really needed...
Anyway, thanks again for sharing the video which at least helps clarify some things and is entertaining.
Yup, you are correct. Well spotted. Others can learn from this too
Thanks, Nick. This is, by far, the best video I've seen for valve adjustment on the NC. I'm going to be doing this on my NC in the near future, and feel better about doing it now. I've watched a few other videos on the valve clearance, and was going to tackle it with a bit of trepidation, but now feel more confident. Subscribed.
Thank you and I really appreciate the support, it helps me continue to make more vidoes like this. I myself couldn't find any clear ones on here so I decided to make one and fill in the missing gaps from previous videos. Thanks again. Ride safe
dito
Excellent video very precise to the point and also included all torque specs nice to find a video that I don't have to watch bunch of and no rambling about other things
Yes, that's exactly what I intended to do. Cut out the waffle and get to the point. Thanks for your kind words
I hope your brother keeps you in a lifetime supply of Guinness and take aways for all the work you do on his bike!!
I hope my brother reads this 🤣
Great tutorial Nick. Professional and to the point, well done!
Thanks for the comment it makes this all worthwhile
This was really helpful and very well done... thank you.
Given me enough confidence to get on with it myself.
Money saved. 👍
Thank you for the comment, it's nice knowing my video can help others too.
Quick question nick ...do you always rotate the engine counter clockwise to get the marks lined up or could you turn it clockwise . Or does it not matter ...I guess you have to turn it the same way it goes when it's actually going ?
Cheers mark
If you are gentle it doesn't really matter. Thanks for watching
I love this valve train type is easy to work on, rather than shim type
Oh I love this design, robust and efficient, perfect for any low revving engine!
Very nice explained. Good job!
Thanks!
Hej m8 nice video i have got nc700d 35000 km on clock i bought it at 25000 doing secon service. Sparks,oils,coolant, filters both air and for oil. This timeings and valve clearences is it the same i mean both engines look the same.
Next i need to check the steereng main ball bearings and case whitch i amnnot familiar with.
Than do reg maintance of the forks and dust seals i foundd this one also at your chanel...
Awesome, nice one bud
Is the coolant 50/50 or neat and should the reservoir also be drained.
best way is to buy pre mix designed for aluminium engines
Nice one Nick ,just bought oil change service kit for my Triumph i was shocked at the price. £42 just for oil no wonder its called liquid gold.
The joys of owning a motorcycle! Thanks for watching
Hello regarding your exhaust pipe did it make the motorcycle much louder?
It changed much for consumption of fuel?
Many thanks
Loud on full throttle. Almost stock sounding on idle. Fuel economy didn't seem to get affected
Thanks, but why you are using a 0.08 gaugue on the exhaust valve? It's expected to use a 0.011 inch or 0.28 mm .
Just for illustrations. Correct settings are mentioned and stated in the description
Nick I have a 2014 exact twin of that bike,and I was going to try valve clearance myself after watching but that .08 gauge puzzled me for ages.your illustrations are 10/10 but this is a too serious to leave in video,don’t you think.😊
Hello how are you? I just now had my first breakdown on my nc750s (thermostatic valve) I started to feel that the engine was running hotter than normal and I turned on the fan constantly, I already changed it and it was TOP... such an insignificant part that it could give big headaches...Hug and good curves
That's great you have fixed it god job
How many miles were in this bike when you did this work? I assume that this was the first time the valve clearances were checked on this bike? Thanks for the great video.
This was done at 30k miles, and it was done prior to this at 16k miles, thanks
Is your exhaust pipe custom? I've not seen a pipe that is just straight pipe with no can. Not even the Leo Vince header pipe that I've found is can-less.
It's a black widow decat system
@@nicksepisode Thanks.🙂👍
very good video and also very good quality and thanks for the torque spec!! do you have the full manual maybe ?
Thanks Roy, you can obtain the workshop manual from the nc750x owners page on Facebook.
@@nicksepisode i search there but didn't found it
Hallo Nick, are you self taught do you mind me asking. Also are there any motorcycle maintenance courses that yude recommend? I'm in England by the way so if there are courses I thought I'd mention that. That was a lot easier than a similar video on a 650 V-Strom I watched. The amount of the bike that needs dismantling is amazing!!
car trained, bike self taught - its only nuts and bolts, youtube is your friend. :) thanks for the kind comment
@@nicksepisode Thanx for that reply, appreciate it.
can you recommend a decent workshop manual apart from Haynes, i don't get on with them.
Check out the Facebook owners page, a pdf manual is on there for download
Thanks Nick. Can I ask, been rotating (repeatedly) to T1 only to find the 2nd (throttle side) cylinder inlets/outlets loose each time; and the same for T2 only to find the 1st (clutch side) loose.
Am I missing something obvious or is my engine ass-backwards or something?
As long as they're loose you can adjust them
@@nicksepisode even if the markings don't correspond? Thanks by the way!
Is the coolant a 50/50 mix with water?
Indeed it is
i got to say men, this is an awesome video.
Thanks 😊
This bike and the Interceptor 650 seem to have easy valve adjustment procedures which make them both an attractive prospect for anyone who wants to avoid high service expenses. Which one do you like riding the most - the NC750X or the Interceptor 650?
Nc750x, now we're in winter season my nc was much better at winter riding.
Thanks for the very informative video.
good man thank you so much
You’re very welcome
what size hex head is the timing inspection hole? is that a 6mm?
Yes 😀
This is going to sound like a silly comment but how do you read the feeler gauge numbers 0.17 _+ 0.2mm.... what gauge would that be the 0.2mm has thrown me my feeler gauge says 178mm 007inch is that correct. or do I need a better feller gauge
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353000214539?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nM5i5KiFSiO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_QCxPrBSSWS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Use this one, to get a 0.17mm reading double up 0.13 & 0.04 together on top of each other
hi, just want to check do i need to tighten the lock nut 30nm or 13nm? sorry they sound the same
It's 14nm, just checked the manual, apologies for the error
@@nicksepisode ah alright thanks!
13 lol if you want to strip it try 30
Great video.
Thank you
Thanks 😊
Where can I download the service manual?
@@desertrose5606 a Google search will bring you to it, or follow the Facebook owners page
@@nicksepisode thx
I thought the Valve clearances would need doing at every 16,000 miles..Somewhere it said every 8,000 miles (I thought to myself that was too soon, or for older NC Models) ...My VFR800 and CBR BLACKBIRD was 16,000 miles too
Nc750x Valve check is due evey 16k miles
I think 30 nm is to much torque for the tappet lock nuts.10 to 14 is nearer the mark.30 nm is for the camshaft. 6:17
Yes you are correct. Have pinned a comment explaining this. Thanks
what are the valve clearance ? im struggling to understand from the manual
exhaust (front of the bike) 0.28mm and the inlet (back of back) 0.17mm these both have a tolerance of 0.2mm + or - from specified measurement
Hi Nick thanks for the video. I followed all steps to get it adjusted but just after few hundreds km I believe it runs out of spec as the check engine light is on, the clear valve opening sound "ta-ta" diminished, engine seems overheating and difficult to start. Has anyone experienced this before? Please let me know. Thanks!
Only check when engine is cold. You may have an air lock in coolant system. Recheck, fill coolant, leave coolant cap off and let settle over night with cap off.
@@nicksepisode thanks for your reply. I gonna try your suggestions. Just a point to clarify, When we rotate the crank shaft counter clockwise to T1 and the 1 mark on cam sprocket were both aligned. Must we rotate another full 360 degree if the rocket arm has no free play?
Yes because it sometimes stops on compression stroke
@@nicksepisode hi Nick thanks for your reply. i watched your video again and it seems like your manual was different from mine. The cam shaft sprocket "1" mark in your manual says align to the bottom wheareas the manual i had said aligh "1" to the top of the engine with "t1" mark. I did my adjustment with "1" align on the cam sprocket last time.
@@123fasful I didn't go by the cam shaft number, just crank, taking plugs out also confirms tdc as shown in video. Good luck
Hi You check the gap on bottom using .008 this mean( intake 017mm??)on bottom shoud be 0.28mm( .011) exhaust on top is 0.17mm (.008)
Tool used was for video purposes, correct measurements are in the description and voice over
nice vedio.
T1 IN MY NC750X 2018 IS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE RIDER'
I'm almost 100 percent sure the 2018 is the same as this 2014 (as shown in this video)
My inspection cap was stuck and I had to pay to have it replaced after burring the hex hole. The new one is now also very stiff so Im worried about the same problem as the metal for the cap is very soft. I can't get it off Any ideas on how to remove it safely? Anyone else had this issue?
Get the engine up to temperature, then try cracking it off. Then, of course, let bike cool fully before you adjust gaps.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
valve on screw 👍🏻 in sv is on glass🤮 but chain for camshaft instead of timing gear is as bad as in sv 🤮
.
👍