Great video and easy to understand. I learn from you that Sharkbite has a slip ball valve which is exactly what I need for my plumbing project. You cleaned both cut ends of the pipe with emery cloth, however, I believe, the cleaning of the pipe should have taken place on the entire 2" length of the upper pipe as this is where the "O" ring is located at the end of the slip fitting. The cleaning of the bottom portion of the pipe is correct as the "O" ring is located near the end of the fitting on the pipe. I also noticed that electrical cables from the junction box should have a staple with 12" of the box to meet electrical code.
I'm glad I could help identify a product that will help in your plumbing project. I agree that cleaning the copper pipe further on each side would be better.
@@u2s1fan Yes, on a copper pipe you should lightly sand the copper pipe to remove any burs on the cut edge that could tear/nick the water sealing "O" rings in the Sharkbite.
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ua-cam.com/video/da5bEmEkVGI/v-deo.html. Hope that helps.
Hi, i pretty much had the same issue you had, the only difference was i didn't have a shut off valve in my basement for the utility tub. I had absolutely no idea how to install a shut off valve untill i saw this video. I followed each and every step as you did, bought the exact equipment needed to this and it did the job. Thank you so much for sharing and making this video. You saved me quite a few dollars if I had to call a plumber to install theae valves. Thanks again 🍻
I am so glad the video was helpful! Having shut off valves for every line is something I think should be installed when homes are built. Since that doesn't happen, we need to do it ourselves.
When you slid the first valve to the top pipe, did you slide it in further than the depth mark you made? Is this why you were able to slide it down to the black line you made?
Yes. You slide the valve on further than it's final spot at first, then release it and slide it onto the other part of the pipe. That's why you need both marks so you know both ends are in the correct spot.
Great presentation. I would suggest for the first timers Dont do both at once. Do one at a time and test, have a spare on hand in case you manage to screw it up. It will not go to waste and you can return if you dont need it. What do you do if you find a leak?
Thanks! Doing the pipes one at a time is a good idea if you are new to plumbing. If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ua-cam.com/video/da5bEmEkVGI/v-deo.html. Hope that helps.
The SharkBite package or website may list this information for each size of pipe but I highly recommend you get the deburring and depth tool. Not deburring caused me many leaks in the past.
Each size of SharkBite tells you how much to cut off. For a 1/2" pipe this valve said 2 inches. Check the package and it will tell you the correct amount of pipe to cut out.
The 2" is for the slip joint fittings - the fittings designed to patch into existing pipes, not for the regular fittings. The slip fittings are all longer - like this one.
I have partially opened the valve to restrict the flow when testing after a repair so I think you could leave it partially open if you didn’t want the full water flow.
It is special plumbers sanding cloth, also known as emery cloth. I don't think it lists a grit. The technical specialist I spoke with at SharkBite said specifically to not use regular sandpaper as it removes too much material. Hope that helps.
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ua-cam.com/video/da5bEmEkVGI/v-deo.html. Hope that helps.
good presentation, likely your descriptions as you did it. only thing I didn't like is speeding up the 2nd valve. i wanted to see it done again and hear a second time what you were saying. no reason to speed that up.
I checked with an expert in the SharkBite tech support department regarding sandpaper. The issue is with using it too much or too hard and changing the shape or diameter of the pipe so that the O-ring does not work properly. What I showed, using the proper plumber sandpaper and using it to just clean up the pipe with wiping down afterwards is OK. It is also key to use the deburring tool every time. I hope that helps.
Great video and easy to understand. I learn from you that Sharkbite has a slip ball valve which is exactly what I need for my plumbing project. You cleaned both cut ends of the pipe with emery cloth, however, I believe, the cleaning of the pipe should have taken place on the entire 2" length of the upper pipe as this is where the "O" ring is located at the end of the slip fitting. The cleaning of the bottom portion of the pipe is correct as the "O" ring is located near the end of the fitting on the pipe. I also noticed that electrical cables from the junction box should have a staple with 12" of the box to meet electrical code.
I'm glad I could help identify a product that will help in your plumbing project. I agree that cleaning the copper pipe further on each side would be better.
You’re not supposed to sand the copper pipe if using sharkbite.
@@u2s1fan Yes, on a copper pipe you should lightly sand the copper pipe to remove any burs on the cut edge that could tear/nick the water sealing "O" rings in the Sharkbite.
Great short video, would have been nice if you walked us through the procedure if there WAS a leak during your inspection.
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ua-cam.com/video/da5bEmEkVGI/v-deo.html. Hope that helps.
You are the shark bit king
I see you have plenty of them
Excellent presentation straight forward
Hi, i pretty much had the same issue you had, the only difference was i didn't have a shut off valve in my basement for the utility tub. I had absolutely no idea how to install a shut off valve untill i saw this video. I followed each and every step as you did, bought the exact equipment needed to this and it did the job. Thank you so much for sharing and making this video. You saved me quite a few dollars if I had to call a plumber to install theae valves. Thanks again 🍻
I am so glad the video was helpful! Having shut off valves for every line is something I think should be installed when homes are built. Since that doesn't happen, we need to do it ourselves.
The tub spout in the shower is wild
Hmmmm...... interesting. Well, ain't seen that one before.
thank you for making this video.... I was looking for instructions on how to install it. Great video
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
This video addresses the problem I need to solve-Thanks
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Thank you!! This is just what I need!
I'm glad I could help!
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much for sharing
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
How do you measure when you want to replace an existing valve?
The exact video i was looking for, TY!!
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Great video, thank you 😊
I'm glad you found the video helpful
I will put something to cover the lower pipe when I sand the upper pipe
Fantastic video - thanks!
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Can this be used on hot side of home boiler?
Very informative video, Thanks
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
When you slid the first valve to the top pipe, did you slide it in further than the depth mark you made? Is this why you were able to slide it down to the black line you made?
Yes. You slide the valve on further than it's final spot at first, then release it and slide it onto the other part of the pipe. That's why you need both marks so you know both ends are in the correct spot.
v good question: I did not even realize that I had missed/ not understood this crucial concept
Great presentation. I would suggest for the first timers Dont do both at once. Do one at a time and test, have a spare on hand in case you manage to screw it up. It will not go to waste and you can return if you dont need it.
What do you do if you find a leak?
Thanks! Doing the pipes one at a time is a good idea if you are new to plumbing. If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ua-cam.com/video/da5bEmEkVGI/v-deo.html. Hope that helps.
Why not use a compression fitting valve? The SharkBite type O rings do not have any long term reliability studies yet.
If I don’t have a deburring tool, what is the depth or lengths of the marks you’re making on the pipes.
The SharkBite package or website may list this information for each size of pipe but I highly recommend you get the deburring and depth tool. Not deburring caused me many leaks in the past.
Very useful info
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
How did you know to cut off 2 in of the pipe? Is this standard for shark bites?
Each size of SharkBite tells you how much to cut off. For a 1/2" pipe this valve said 2 inches. Check the package and it will tell you the correct amount of pipe to cut out.
I don’t see anything about that on the tag
The 2" is for the slip joint fittings - the fittings designed to patch into existing pipes, not for the regular fittings. The slip fittings are all longer - like this one.
So I'm assuming the length to cut would be slightly more on 3/4" pipe? At any rate, it'll give me the proper length on the packaging.
can that ball valve be permanently slightly closed to reduce volume of water ?
I have partially opened the valve to restrict the flow when testing after a repair so I think you could leave it partially open if you didn’t want the full water flow.
What grit is the sandpaper you use?
It is special plumbers sanding cloth, also known as emery cloth. I don't think it lists a grit. The technical specialist I spoke with at SharkBite said specifically to not use regular sandpaper as it removes too much material. Hope that helps.
@ ok thanks.
excellent
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Unless I missed it you never explained why you removed 2 inches of the copper pipe instead of 3 inches or whatever length. Why 2 inches?
The Sharkbite fitting I used specifies the length on the package and on their website. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
So if the joint did leak, what would you do to stop the leak?
If it leaks, I turn off the water again and go through the steps I outline in this video on how to prevent leaks in SharkBite fittings: ua-cam.com/video/da5bEmEkVGI/v-deo.html. Hope that helps.
good presentation, likely your descriptions as you did it. only thing I didn't like is speeding up the 2nd valve. i wanted to see it done again and hear a second time what you were saying. no reason to speed that up.
You do realize you can just rewatch the first one, right?
Not supposed to use sandpaper according to Shark Bit.
I checked with an expert in the SharkBite tech support department regarding sandpaper. The issue is with using it too much or too hard and changing the shape or diameter of the pipe so that the O-ring does not work properly. What I showed, using the proper plumber sandpaper and using it to just clean up the pipe with wiping down afterwards is OK. It is also key to use the deburring tool every time. I hope that helps.
@@upgradeyourhomediy Thanks, I was thinking about only using a finer grade sandpaper. Thanks for responding.
@@Scissorman Scotchbrite pad type materials also work well - they make different grades for metals.
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