Ive been a commercial plumber since '95. Whenever I'm fitting together anything involving rubber or neoprene, i like to wet all surfaces with soapy water. ..even nohub bands. ..slip nuts, I've never installed these kinds of fittings here in this video, but i would certainly soap them up before making them up. The soapy water makes all the mating surfaces nice and slippery so nothing binds up or gets pinched then it gets tacky as it dries. Anything that ends up inside the pipe rinses right out with ease. Soapy water in a spray bottle is an invaluable asset for any plumber to maintain. It's not just for checking for leaks or when making up rubber connections. Its good for remodels, before soldering around combustible materials, spray down area. Before cutting into wall or pipe, spray area to keep dust to a minimum. The soap makes it spread better, stay wet longer. I use 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of dawn per bottle. That way, when it gets low, if im not near my supply of soap, I can just add water to what's left and its still soapy enough... Its handy when cutting rubber too.
@Floyd Albright but corn oil won't dry clean and it won't spray out of a simple spray bottle like soapy water does. ..and it doesn't double as a substance that can be used to check for leaks. ..and you can't add water to corn oil when the bottle gets low and there's no more corn oil.. lol But it might work well tyseal gaskets and ductile iron gaskets..
I am an old school (retired) HVAC technician that has always sweat copper pipe. About 2 years ago I used Pex to install at tankless water heater in my camping trailer and shark bite to run a new water line in the basement of my condo. Although I have had no problems with either. I’m still skittish about these new fangled things. Any more DIY projects I have, I’ll go back to my old ways. The cost of the press fitting crimping tool is enough to prevent me from even trying these fittings. However, your video was certainly educational. Thank you.
None of them have been out there or had the track record or history of sweating copper. Everything new is better than sliced bread until the failures start stacking up. I still remember the 'cheap' PVC from the '70's, aluminum wire, and the CPVC stuff ('90's-'00's) that would fall apart if you touch it. And they got that cheap ABS pipe with a sandwiched layer of foam that turns into spaghetti with hot water. Only reason to deviate from what works is to cut time or money.
It doesn't save money it just makes people more confident to do repairs. For a plumber that knows exactly what to look for in solder joints that's fine. For people who don't that can cut a pipe deburr clean and press on a SB it is much easier
@@chevy16001 For production building work it absolutely saves money (time) if you look at how long it takes to plumb a whole house or building. For a home owner, it's a waste, unless you hire a pro plumber.
I bought the Milwaukee 12 volt system, never looked back, if you ever hired a plumber $1000.- $1500 does not go far, most of the plumbing I do is under kitchen sinks, bathroom vanities, crawl spaces, one point to remember the press fittings are one use only, think twice, press once. One thing I will mention if you used a press cap at the end, that is maybe the most expensive press fittings, you could have likely put on another ball valve for just a dollar or two more and had a water heater shut off valve, maybe the cap is shark bite and you can reuse it, I enjoy your videos. When I replace a valve in a tight run like that I cut the valve, which releases the water inside and reduces the mass to heat up, heat and remove the collar left on pipe, wipe off solder, clean pipe, sometimes that half inch of pipe you save, saves a lot of work
Yes the ball valve works in either direction, but pay attention to where the handle may be as it swings 90 degrees from on to off. Otherwise you may find it hits another pipe, another valve, the wall, etc
I agree,i think he may have turned it around,the nub on the valve is the stop.the way he had it to open it you turn that one clockwise hitting the wall.good catch.
Not to be too picky. There are gate ball valves I use in the basement the include a drain port. That has to be positioned to allow the down stream plumbing to drain after the gate valve is off.
It would be great if they made wheel style handles for ball valves. The handles are easy enough to remove and replace. I suppose you could cut a straight handle down so it's shorter when you have no other option due to space constraints.
@@virtuallyrealistic Any contamination will cause the gate to not seat fully. Then the seat erodes. As long as you're going to sweat one of those monsters on, you might as well use a ball valve. He was spending a lot of money to avoid sweating a valve on but even using an extra $25 on materials to practice with, it still wouldn't equal anywhere near the cost of that crimping tool. That is, if you bought, for practice, an extra 1/2" pipe ($20), a ball valve ($12), 8 couplings (97¢ each), solder, and flux, torch and tank, you're only into it about an extra $60. And you have something to start your campfire with.
I'm an old school DIYer and I would solder all the connections. Even if you have to buy a torch, the cost is a small fraction of other methods and this method has been used successfully for years. To me it's the gold standard.
I encourage you to keep up with your instruccions, your videos or whatever you call them. You happen to be a great communicator!!!, therefore we are able to understand and review everything you tell us...!!
I am not a plumber but needed a water line to a fridge with water and an ice maker in the door, the fridge is in an extension part of the house that is exposed to subfreezing temps. The plumber wanted $2000 to run 13 feet of pipe and valves to the fridge. I did it myself for less than $50, I put in the pipe, shutoff valves, and a place to drain off the water outside so the exposed pipe doesn't freeze, all using shark bite fittings and ball valves. did this over a year ago and still no leaks or frozen pipes. As a truck driver, I did well.
I owned six rental units with very old plumbing for about 25 years. Each time an existing globe valve would fail I would replace it with a ball valve (with a drain). I love them. They are very easy to open and close (1/4 turn) and very easy to see if they are closed or open from across a room. My father taught me how to sweat copper pipes when I was a kid, so that's never been an issue for me. Also, I only own close quarters pipe cutters. Once I found them I never bought another set of the regular kind. I use the CQ ones for everything with no trouble.
If you are going to burn the house down, then you should not be doing any plumbing work and stick to your day job where you won't hurt anyone or yourself.
Something tells me personally I will lean towards solder joints longterm but also interested in getting some experience with these press fittings as I have seen so many making the shift.
My last house was over a hundred years old with original soldered plumbing, and not a single leak! With Pro-press they have rubber O-Rings that will fail. Just imagine a whole house with Pro-press installed everywhere and they all randomly start failing! Those in the plumbing industry love the Pro-press, SharkBite's for repeated emergency overtime pay! 🤑
I have a property maintenance company; we use sharkbit all the time "10+ years now", benefits of sharkbit over Brazing or press fittings g is you don't loss pipe length due to removal/replace. Sharkbit is 100% removable, replaceable and reliable.
Good video for the most part. However, press type fittings (including Sharkbite) are ok for external pipe connections that can be monitored regularly. Personally, I would never use press fittings inside of walls (yes, I know people do it all of the time). I have seen way too many press fittings leak, even when installed by so-called "professionals." Also sweating (soldering) copper pipe is fairly cheap and easy. Just make sure the pipes and fittings are cleaned and deburred. Use Flux on the pipe and fitting, and apply heat to the opposite side of the solder contact. This will draw the solder into the gaps between the pipes and fittings, properly sealing the connection for many years. Soldering copper pipe takes some practice, but it is a lot cheaper than spending $175 on a crimping tool that you may only use once or twice. Hey, we can't have too many tools though, can we?....lol. Finally, ball valves are great. They are much more durable and convenient (also more expensive) than globe/gate valves. Just don't buy thin metal, cheaply made ball valves, and they will last (almost) forever. When buying ball valves always look for "full-port" ball valves, so you don't lose water volume. What is the point of having a 3/4" pipe if the ball valve only has a 1/2" hole?" Also, water-knock can be an issue with ball valves on an often-used connection (like a garden hose). This is because the opening and closing of the ball valve is instant, and not gradual like with a gate/globe valve. However, this can be overcome by closing the ball valve slowly. This is just my 2 cents on the subject. Hopefully this helps all of those DIYers out there. 👍👍
For sure its going to help guys like me who own a home and depend on videos and detailed instructions from guys like you. Well I have to use sharkbite as my shutoff is in-between walls and 12 inches below the basement ceiling. Thanks once again.
@@jayak3768 Those things leak all the time, all the pipes at my work are installed by long term Journeymen plumbers and I see them leaking all the time, slow drips with visible corrosion from where it is leaking.
@@zekehu7701 I WOULD NEVER USE A PUSH FITTING VALVE ON THE MAIN SHUT OFF. Your insurance company is gonna love you. There's ALWAYS a way to do it correctly.
You are correct. Best to check your jurisdiction. Some ONLY allow a rising stem or gate valve on the main shut off to avoid water hammer or shock from abrupt shut off. The gate valve makes this impossible.
One other tip, instead of using a Sharkbite Cap in general, I like to use a Sharkbite coupling with a short piece of pex with a plug crimped in. Then when ready to run more pipe, simply remove the PEX and continue with PEX or copper. I've used Sharkbites professionally for 15-20 years (since Cash Acme 2st came out with them), never had a problem.
If you are unable to shut the water off completely, (small dribble) these fittings and press will work great, unlike solder. I have one of these presses and it is well worth the money.
I used SharkBite four times and they have all worked perfectly. I terminated a .25” copper tube and I have three shutoff, quarter turn valves under the sink. No leaking with any of them. I can see and access all the valves (they’re not behind a wall).
That crimp tool looks like a nice quality tool. I have a Milwaukee Force Logic but I like the fact that you can use the fittings without shelling out $2000. There are some places where soldering isn’t safe. No hot work permit and no sprinkler heads going off but for $175. Nice!
I have a big, old soldering iron that I use in such cases when I cannot use a flame torch. I've even used soldering coppers in the past with my heater outside. A big 4 lb copper can do 3 or 4 joints before cooling.
Have used sharkbites several years on numerous project's. Extremely satisfied with ease of installation. No special tools required. Have used on both copper and plastic type pipes. Never a leak Very convenient for DYI in remote,, tight, or potentially flammable locations. Concur with comments concerning cost of snakebite but considering savings in purchase of and required knowledge in using more sophisticated tools still preferable for average user.
Same here, I have an old leaky main right now that I am cutting out and using sharkbite, 15 minutes start to finish. Cue all the regular plumbers coming in and shitting on sharkbite and pex.
I bought the same tool .Great video explaining the operation of the tool. Mixing in shrak bite couplings is the best option in tight spaces the shark bite fittings allows 360 turning of the pipe a win win
I'm a plumber and I use pro press and mega press frequently, you did a good job ,but I would have pre fitted it where all I had to do was 2 presses on the wall to eliminate fatigue. It's much easier to sub assemble on a bench or floor then to do a bunch of crimps on a wall, also most jurisdictions require a minimum of 3/4 feed lines to water heaters
I prefer to Silver Solder Copper lines that are hidden. Pipes that are exposed, pipes around a hot water unit for example it's neater and better looking to use a press tool.
I’m pretty sure All Jurisdictions require 3/4 pipe into and out. Most codes call for a 3/4 supply no more than 3 fixtures. You have someone in your comments saying code should be 3/4 supply line. Mobile homes don’t have all the same codes as most building codes. I’m really not sure why mobile homes get away with undersized water piping and undersized drain pipes. But they do!!!!
I used threaded ball valve with thread-to-solder coupling. Makes it easier to replace the ball valve. Also don't want to spend $190 (tax included) for a crimp tool. Nice video!
I'm a chief engineer as many situations come up- for copper piping I only go with old school- sweat fittings it's a solid seal as the solder bonds to both sides of the pipe ( male and female) no slipping no chance of coming loose. In some situations I can see saving time with these press fittings, but in time I can see them leaking. Plus all round fittings and supplies are just so much cheaper. Just my thought....
Job security. I can’t understand sharkbites passing plumbing code when the "bite" part is metal into copper. Electrolysis will eventually eat one or the other dissimilar metals.
@@MariuszChr propress fittings are less likely to leak if pressed with a press gun which are expensive and the pipe is properly cleaned and reamed and installed by a professional. Shark bites are usually installed by homeowners,handymen,and shitty plumbers and tend to leak from poor installation. The only time I use shark bites are for isolating and testing leaks on manifolds or temporary repairs. I prefer to solder if I can cuz it's an art to create beautiful joints. Pressing joints saves time which saves money.
The shark bite fittings are great for me, as I didn't need to use the torch to fix my leak. Which coincidentally was while trying to fix an outside hose valve! I should of watched your video first. I am so not a plumber, but these make it where I can fix things myself. Thank you
I use shark bite. Have it on my laundry room for my cold and hot water lines inside wall with an access panel. Have been there for 8 years. No leak, no problem. Great video!!
I had the boiler replaced at home and the contractor used this style of compression fittings. They did have to sweat a couple of the connections but 99% were done with cordless crimp tool. I think the time it took them to sweat the couple fittings was longer than the time to crimp the others. Also, with this system there is no flame so way safer from a fire hazard standpoint, especially in tight areas near any framing.
@@scota.3898 The plastic bit is only applicable for pex. The pressure bearing part is brass and the seal is an o ring. Crimp fittings use the same type o ring.
Never had a problem with sharkbite's. I'm a builder, 40 yrs, and when these came out it's a super easy repair. Quick and clean and most of all no fire and no expensive tools. Another advantage is going from metal to pvc to pex etc with ease.
@@RadioRich100 Normally when someone says 'I'm a builder' = 'quickest, cheapest method'. Once these builders finish the last home and are out of the 'warranty period' they file bankruptcy or dissolve the shell company or LLC....and start all over. Once people start having flooded homes they're long gone. Seen it before.
WOW!!! THANKS, FOR ALL OF YOUR GREAT, DEMO VIDEOS!!! I JUST GOT MY IWISS CRIMP TOOL, TOO!! ....I'LL BE INSTALLING A REPLACEMENT "TANKLESS WATER HEATER", AS SOON AS IT ARRIVES!!.... (MAYBE IN ANOTHER WEEK).
I use pro-press from 1" to 3" large Ridgid corded tool. Heavy, but surprisingly well-balanced and easier to get into spaces than it looks. Works great, primarily for commercial, because it's permanent. Only way to remove is to cut, lose some length of cc oppper. One tip, There's a built-in stop. Just push onto pipe until it stops, unless using a slip repair coupling. The 11/16 for 1/2" is just for planning/measurements.
Way Better Than Shark Bite for a permanent repair. I try to only use pro press when i can. Haven't had many issues after thousands of connections. The issues where usually due to installer error. Great product overall. First time i have seen a manual version in use. Thanks for the demo!
I know I’m a year late but I think it was a great instructional video. I’m not a shark bite user, it’s great for homeowners but as a pro , we sweat and press. My only feed back on pressing is that every failure I’ve found was someone 1. Didn’t clean the pipe well 2. The fitting wasn’t pushed in all the way 3. If you are using a battery pro press machine , the battery wasn’t charged all the way . Press fittings have been a time saver and a liability saver versus using a torch. Press valves are especially helpful in the places that you can’t turn the water fully off or there is a lot of drain down.
I tried a Sharkbite elbow on a pipe with a (very) little bit of solder on it. It wouldn't bite on the pipe. Then I installed a plastic Nibco(?) fitting on the same pipe, and it worked flawlessly. Several months later, I sweat a copper elbow, sleeping better now. I struggle to sweat valves, so I could justify renting one of those crimping tools.
I was hesitate using sharkbites at first but I'm a believer now. Installed several with no failures for about 5 yrs. It is the sharkbite brand that I use. No experience with other similar brands. These were invented in Australia. I still can't figure out how they work so darn good!
I would recommend "round off" the edge of pipe with a sand cloth so you're less likely to damage o ring, and dipping either pipe or fitting into a cup of water also makes it easier to push on
Pro. 30 years +. North East upstate NY. Never had a shark Bite or equivalent fail, or freeze off. Scores copper good in a freeze, never plows or moves on PEXa. Love them for leak fix when sweat will never work.
I installed a main shutoff with a shark bite bulb valve with out shutting off the water and not even a cup of water was spilled. On the fly. 6years later still solid.
I work as property maintenance for 10 years at the same place. We have many maintenance techs fix leaks with sharkbite fittings. As the years go by, more and more leaks seem to pop up. All due to Shark bites started leaking. We have plumbers come out fix them properly. They all say the same thing. The see slot if Shark bites leak after 3-5 years due to hiw bad the hard water in our area is. I seen pro press and it worth investing in the tools. Simple to do and use. Plus saves alot of time then soldering. Recommend saving up for it if you do properly maintenance maintenance. It a live save. We can fix our pipes and not have to pay over price plumber to come out, and do job in 30mins or less with pro press fittings.
Shark bite fittings will also allow the valve or fitting to rotate which you may not want. I would use a crimped coupling to extend the valve away from the wall, then solder a ball valve, because the soldered valve can then be easily replaced if necessary. It’s also a good idea to place a pressure gauge upstream and downstream of your water regulator so that you know how well the regulator is functioning and when it is failing. It will also tell you if your street pressure is too high in which case you might want to use 2 regulators. One of which would be a “step down” regulator. . This would only be necessary if the street pressure exceeds 150 psig. Normally house pressure would be set at about 55 or 60 psig. The higher the street pressure, the shorter the life of the regulator because it must work much harder to maintain house pressure.
Or install a valve-switched bypass for the PRV with a gauge downstream of both. That way, it's just 1 gauge and you're prepped to change out the PRV when needed.
Shark bite fittings are great ,those press fittings are hard to use and are not reusable if make a mistake,sharkbites cane used over and over again.i keep some fittings and pipe on hand for emergency repairs. I live in a trailer with the old polybutalane pipe so I get a lot of leaks👍
For a water heater overflow I think sharkbite is perfect. You can remove the sharkbite and put back when you swap out the water heater. If you solder or propress, you may need new piping every time you get a new water heater.
I use a similar tool from Vevor and I have used MLCP fittings. For the weekend DIY warrior they are a great tool ...my cost was about £70 ($95), definitely worth it...👍🏻
I am a fading PEX fan . My difficulty is how a PEX connection will spin . For example a ball valve will always face down and move when trying to operate the valve . I work in apartment and nursing home environments . I run into a variety of plumbing styles depending on the age of the pipe I'm working on . I am moving towards using a crimper for PEX , or compression fittings when working with older lines . A common problem has been swelled lines from a winter freeze . The 1/2 copper will need cut at a point where there is no swelling . At that point I lean to PEX and quick connects . PEX has made it easy for me to make a continuous run & avoid in the wall connections . I find that I am choosing material (copper or PEX) and fitting depending on what I am working on and the environment that I am in.
Hey Scott, I had a house in California which had tubing in the slab. Cheap. The hot water tubing started leaking (of course, maybe a topic for a future video.) Not wanting to jackhammer the slab, I bypassed. My then future (now ex) wife was impressed that I was using a utility knife to cut two slots across all of the walls to re-pipe lol. That job was not fun! I used red Pex and the rings and fittings needed a plier similar to what you have there. It's huge! I still have it. It was 3/4" because I sure wasn't getting more than one plier, and the bits weren't changeable like yours. Man, I had to drill 1" holes in all of the studs and put in steel plates to prevent future people from drilling into the Pex. Did drywall repair, painting, texturing and I surprised myself that it was impossible to tell the difference when I was done. I think that was why she married me, but she divorced me because I couldn't get a job lol. Easy come easy go maybe? Don't know. 😁 The point of this comment is to convey what a pain it is to get those huge clamping pliers into walls or any tight spaces. It worked and I saved having a plumber come out and charge thousands of dollars, so you sweat the stuff you have to do but please repeat to yourself, think of what I'm saving. Of course, not everyone will succeed, so mileage will vary. Anyway, awesome video!! Ken
We used sharkbite fittings to install my new water heater 15 years ago. They never leaked in the 15 years they were on. I decided to put new ones on when the water heater failed this year, because I'm sure that o-ring will eventually deteriorate in the sharkbite fitting.
Just watched your globe valve repair and HAD to watch this one. I have PEX tools, NIBCO crimp tools, torch and solder, as well as wrenches. You present a lot of good information and options. This is where I have to showcase the error of your way. NIBCO manufactures some amazing products that I can use all of the tools listed above to install which ever product the customer spec's. This is where contemporary marketing bites us all in the A$$. You repaired a globe valve with a little knowledge, sweat equity and $0.30 worth of materials. That valve is now good for another 50 year run and if maintained will last indefinitely. I commented on that episode. Do not misunderstand, I love 1/4 turn balls for replacements and new installs. You have shown the replacement with a NIBCO 1/4 turn press fit ball valve at a cost of $30.00. Not to mention the "Special Tool" which can be had for $100.00 and change. This valve has no serviceable parts has a rubber O-ring and deforms the pipe. Now here is the rub. 1/2" PEX 1/4 turn ball vlv will run about $6.00 and the tool $40 and no serviceable parts or rubber O-rings. SharkBite or equivalent 1/2" 1/4 turn ball vlv is about $17.00, is reusable, requires no special tool, does not deform the pipe and has no serviceable parts or rubber O-rings. Let me just stipulate that 1/4 turn valves have no serviceable parts. You replaced a functioning serviceable valve with a WAY more expensive and potentially inferior Valve. The jury is still out. Unlike the Quest plumbing of the past that was manufactured using inferior materials, NIBCO has introduced a potential weak point in their "Press Fit" line. Recall the galvanic corrosion on the globe valve and the state of the stem packing and the washer. That corrosion and decay were caused by minerals in the water. The globe valve is infinitely serviceable with new packing, washers and Plumbers Grease. The NIBCO O-ring is NOT serviceable and is subject to the same decay. It may be prolonged by coating the O-ring with Plumbers Grease, this will also aid in installation, but that O-ring WILL eventually FAIL. Ask NASA. Don't be fooled by marketing. A trickle of water started the Grand Canyon, it will level a house!
I hardly ever respond in the comments but I agree with Jamie. If it were me, I would have put a male compression fitting on the copper then crimped on a female fitting to the pex line then attached the 1/4 turn PEX ball valve.
The propress and Sharkbite fittings or Valves I find best to use when you want to avoid Burning anything, a large home with any water in the line when you need a fast repair done anywhere, and when using sharkbites I always look to see if the O rings are greased properly to avoid a dry connection! Love that you made sure the copper was well cleaned before installing the propress to Prevent leaks! As a 20 yr plumber I prefer Propress over sharkbite When really needed! Besides that I try to solder anything I can
I never press or solder valves. I always also use threaded or compression fitting valves. Just better for any future repair because nothing lasts forever.
I don't have a lot of plumbing projects, as a home owner, I like Sharkbite very much. Never had anything fail or leak on me. But this is a great video and let's me see that the press fitting option might be a good choice in the future..
I use a variety and it depends on what it is that may make the job easier. I'll use shark bite fittings on certain applications, and solder on others. I'm kind of liking the crimp fit a little more due to an area on a main water line that just wouldn't clear all the water out. Crimp fittings work well for that because soldering would have been a pain. So, the variety is great for the different scenarios you would encounter.
Next time you sweat a pipe that just will not quit dribbling water go get a piece of bread break off a piece roll it into a ball and stuff it into the leaky pipe when the water quits dripping go ahead and solder the joint. It works and the bread breaks down and flushes out the nearest outlet.
I had no idea these fitting existed. I use SharkBites, because I am terrified of soldering-afraid I'll start a fire 🔥🔥🔥. I think I'd like to give these crimp fittings a try...tho, I am kinda a very new fan of PEX and the SharkBite EVOPex fittings...
I bought this tool for a whole house re-pipe following a deep freeze that burst many of the copper pipes. Fortunately, the water main was shut off and the house was vacant. All of the plumbing was in the unfinished basement. Several of the 70 year old copper solder joints blew apart as did the single shark bite connector that was used to repair a horizontal pipe. The 1" copper main blew open in the middle of a horizontal section of the pipe as did one of the 1/2" pipes. The main shutoff valve was also leaking a solder joint. I own a Milwaukee ProPex expansion tool and chose Pex A for the repipe. But I wanted something other than Sharkbites to transition to the copper pipes I wasn't replacing. My experience was similar to the video but I couldn't get it to work between some of the floor joists because there wasn't enough room to open the jaws. It is also difficult to get the tool properly aligned on the fitting because it is relatively heavy and you need both hands to get the clamp to close. All told, I'm pleased with the way the tool worked. I replaced the main shutoff valve without incident and kept a section of the verticle copper pipe because this is a 70 year old house and the electric panel is grounded to the water main. You can't do this with a Sharkbite because there is no continuity due to the plastic liner. But if I ever do another re-pipe, I'm buying the Milwaukee power press tool.
Hey there I bought the same exact tool from Amazon paid $150 for it but all the adapters to do the job I used this tool once not only was it super easy great to handle and it's already paid for itself I recommend this way above shark bites it's more professional looking and it's definitely stronger
I am a fan of Sharkbite as well but agree this is a great alternative and nice to have an option to buy a crimper that isn't $1000's of dollars. What brand of Press Fittings did you use NIBCO or ProPress (Viega)? I used NIBCO just because they are stocked at the Menards in my area.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I used Viega cuz that's what was available but at the end of the day this system is 10 times better than SharkBite I think and my crimping tool looks exactly like the one you have same color telescopic arms and different size fittings half inch 3/4 1 in I have a couple more jobs to do in my house to fix the flood that I had so it's going to come in handy
We used a shark bite coupling in a daily use 1/2” copper feed at least 15 years ago also a shark bite cap on a 1/2” copper line about 10 years ago, both are still holding today in a commercial restaurant.
👍👍using the nibco press fitting is much simpler and quicker than sweeting copper pipes. I used the shark bite fittings on my hot water heater and It worked very well. I will switch to the nibco press fitting.🇬🇾🇬🇾🇬🇾🇬🇾
Im a diyer and I bought the milwaukee press tool and the pex expansion tool. It just make sense. Having sweat (3) 2 bath 1 kitchen apartments it no way in ever sweating copper again! Its a pain in the but.
When doing some updating on my daughters home I used shark bite fittings in 21 places as well as shark bite ball valves on all sinks and faucets. I know that the shark bite fittings were pricey, but I had time constraints involved. To spend $175 on that crimping tool would be cost effective only if I were going to be doing a lot more plumbing. I know how to sweat the copper, but the shark bites were so quick. My daughter has lived in her home now over 10 years with no leak issues. And I’ve had to sweat a copper line only once in the last 10 years. So, for me I have to say I loved using the shark bites.
@@mikecase9365 I have had 1 inch elbows and couplings on my incoming well water line for 11 years now. When I 1st use them I had one blow off, but only because I didn't understand I would encounter 2 points of resistance during insertion. 1st on the stainless steel teeth and then again at the o ring. Properly deburred pipe inserted to fully seated depth will have zero issues.
i own 11 rental properties and i handle all maintenance issues when they arise. ALL PLUMBING IS PEX PIPE AND SHARK BITE FITTINGS. NEVER HAD A SINGLE FAILURE FROM EITHER. SOME SHARKBITE FITTINGS ARE A LITTLE PRICEY BUT THE CONVENIENCE IS PRICELESS.
I like to keep sharkbite caps on hand in the event of a leak, but prefer soldered joints as it's a dying art, and as a hobbiest, it's a skill I need to maintain
yea, thinking of an emergency leak kit, a pipe cutter, some shark fittings of diff sizes. ready to go, just cut and cap; but for real, anything permanent, I don't want to have to worry about future failure, soldered joint can be tested, if its not leaking now, its not going to leak later...... is it?
Since technology advanced and plumbers got Fancy with these super gadgets to make soldering obsolete soldering is still the number one solution for a leak-free copper pipe. End of story
I love shark bite fittings quick repairs had a service call customer was working on his plumbing in basement thought water was off cut pipe water shot out an main didn't hold so I used shark bite to stop leak then went out to main shut it off an installed new main ball valve
I rarely use Sharkbites, but thank God they exist. A Sharkbite coupling just saved me a lot of pain this week. I try to put them in a place in the line where they will be trapped in place, and never use them to cap a live water line. Not permanently, anyway. I'll probably increase my stock of them in the future. Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. Cheers.
I have used the battery operated crimpers and they are indeed very quick and efficient, but they are very expensive. I have been looking at these manual crimpers on eBay for a while, but have been hesitant. Thanks. I will be more inclined to buy one now
I am a DIY'er who thinks ahead, such as what if I have to change this? I can reflow solder, or release a Sharkbite, but what do you do with these fittings?? Does it permanently deform the pipe to the point it cannot be reworked? Looking forward to a video on that topic...
If you're going to rework you a solder joint or this you have to cut the pipe so I don't see it as a big issue. You can do this and not worry about water. If you solder you can have to make sure everything is dray.
When it comes to a main water inlet, my biggest problem was dealing with the city water department. The street valve is unique and the city was the only ones allowed to turn it off or on. Took a day off work and called the water department to shut off the water. Three hours later a young kid showed up and couldn't get the street valve closed and had to call a supervisor to help him. At this point, I didn't care if the ball valve cost me $50. I just wanted that valve in the warm house installed and working. Of course this was all happening on a January day and the temperature was 14 degrees outside. I sweated the new ball valve on and again had to call the water department again to have them come out to turn the water back on (another 2 hour wait). All in all, spent an entire day changing out one valve.
I would suggest calling the city to turn the water off at the street as if you somehow wreck the underground valve you maybe responsible where the city know better. Not sure if there is a charge for that depending on the municipality. Something we did with press fit, is when the fitting is fully engaged mark it with a marker to make sure it does not slip out on you. If so you know. Otherwise nice job and advice. I like the way you put the vice grips on the pipe to hold it out of the wall for the press.
Thanks for the feedback Tom and calling the city/water company is probably the best bet for most people especially with the sensors commonly found in the water box now.
Shark bites are great, can be used to connect two different types of pipe no problems. Used them when I upgraded my waterheater. Limited space so SB's were the way to go.
I concur. Why have a large expensive specialized tool hanging around after you are done with the renovations? Sharkbite valves also rotate after installation, useful for making your flexible connections look neat and straight.
Yes, once in winter temperature was very cold outdoor, I got copper pipe broken behind the indoor valve (closed) even though I had drained water out then closed the outdoor valve. It was not good for my basement. I repaired it as the same way you said. Outdoor valve (existing)-- copper pipe (existing in concrete) -- SB coupler - Flex pipe (new) -- new T valve (sharkBite) -- Flex pipe (new) -- SB coupler (new) -- SB valve (new) -- existing copper pipe. By this configuration, before winter, I can respectively close the indoor valve, open outdoor valve, open T valve and drain completely water out (vacuum or air compressor). Finally close outdoor and T valves. No more thermal conduction to my indoor valve :-)
One of the greatest advantages of the press fittings over Sharkbite push-on fittings is the press fittings are full flow, just like a soldered fitting. Push on fittings have a significant reduction in inside pipe diameter.
Used to be a sweat-it guy. But the sharkbite works really well in tight spaces and for a one time fix, especially where you can't get the fitting dry. Yea, I know the bread trick. If I had a lot to do, the crimp would be the way to go, especially if you can justify the power crimper.
Some ball valves have a drain on them, just like a globe valve. In that case they are directional. There should be an arrow cast into the brass body showing which way they should be installed to be able to drain the side that gets shut off. Another consideration is the example case is make sure there is enough room for the valve's handle to swing it's full travel. It would suck if you installed the valve only to find out that it's so close to the wall that you can't shut it off!
You did an awesome job on this video, but a couple things you did not mention: 1) Most copper already installed in houses is Type M copper (thin walled tubing). Press fittings, last time I checked, can only be used on Type L copper pipe (thicker walled tubing), otherwise it will crush/deform the copper pipe and it will leak. The only way to remedy that is to solder the first fitting and section of Type L copper pipe to the existing pipe, then use press fittings from then on. 2) The battery powered press tools, the most common one is the Milwaukee ProPress or a MegaPress, can be rented for approximately $50/day + a $250 deposit. The deposit will be refunded, so long as you don't damage the unit or lose any parts for the tool. 2a) The battery powered press tools are calibrated, or should be, regularly to ensure the fitting is sealed right every time, plus they give you the added benefit of having one hand free to hold the fitting so it doesn move so it seals properly. MAKE SURE YOU CENTER THE PROPRESS TOOL FROM SIDE TO SIDE OR IT WILL NOT SEAL, AND YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT EVERYTHING OUT AND REPLACE EVERYTHING YOU JUST INSTALLED! And, don't install press fittings butt to butt - leave a length of pipe that is at least the length of the diameter of the pipe between fittings, or it will NOT seal. 3) The outside, not just the inside, of the pipe needs to be deburred or it can cut or nick the o-ring in the press fitting and cause a leak. The best deburring tool for deburring the outside of the pipe basically looks like a hand held lime reamer and can be used to deburr both (in/out)side of the pipe., and can be found at most hardware stores. I am not a Journeyman Plumber, yet, however, I have been Plumbing full time for three years, and I have been learning from a Commercial Journeyman Plumber, who has 23 years of experience. Again, awesome job, keep up the good work, and I'll catch you again next time! P.S. Phase two and three on your gate valve, or as you called it, globe valve, video was extremely useful. I will certainly utilize those. Thank you!
sharkbite worked ok for me... easy and removable. Saturday pinhole sweating will not work in vertical pipes with water inside. shut off valve at the curb not accessible. i used a new valve and a sharkbite connector. problem solved.
Ive been a commercial plumber since '95. Whenever I'm fitting together anything involving rubber or neoprene, i like to wet all surfaces with soapy water. ..even nohub bands. ..slip nuts, I've never installed these kinds of fittings here in this video, but i would certainly soap them up before making them up. The soapy water makes all the mating surfaces nice and slippery so nothing binds up or gets pinched then it gets tacky as it dries. Anything that ends up inside the pipe rinses right out with ease.
Soapy water in a spray bottle is an invaluable asset for any plumber to maintain. It's not just for checking for leaks or when making up rubber connections. Its good for remodels, before soldering around combustible materials, spray down area. Before cutting into wall or pipe, spray area to keep dust to a minimum. The soap makes it spread better, stay wet longer. I use 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of dawn per bottle. That way, when it gets low, if im not near my supply of soap, I can just add water to what's left and its still soapy enough...
Its handy when cutting rubber too.
Great idea or even corn oil would work as long as it's not oil based .
@Floyd Albright but corn oil won't dry clean and it won't spray out of a simple spray bottle like soapy water does. ..and it doesn't double as a substance that can be used to check for leaks. ..and you can't add water to corn oil when the bottle gets low and there's no more corn oil.. lol
But it might work well tyseal gaskets and ductile iron gaskets..
This guy doesnt know what hes doing. He a jack of all trades master of none.
@@RadioRich100but better than master of one, right?
@@Wow_wow1 No
I am an old school (retired) HVAC technician that has always sweat copper pipe. About 2 years ago I used Pex to install at tankless water heater in my camping trailer and shark bite to run a new water line in the basement of my condo. Although I have had no problems with either. I’m still skittish about these new fangled things. Any more DIY projects I have, I’ll go back to my old ways. The cost of the press fitting crimping tool is enough to prevent me from even trying these fittings.
However, your video was certainly educational. Thank you.
None of them have been out there or had the track record or history of sweating copper. Everything new is better than sliced bread until the failures start stacking up. I still remember the 'cheap' PVC from the '70's, aluminum wire, and the CPVC stuff ('90's-'00's) that would fall apart if you touch it. And they got that cheap ABS pipe with a sandwiched layer of foam that turns into spaghetti with hot water. Only reason to deviate from what works is to cut time or money.
It doesn't save money it just makes people more confident to do repairs. For a plumber that knows exactly what to look for in solder joints that's fine. For people who don't that can cut a pipe deburr clean and press on a SB it is much easier
@@chevy16001 For production building work it absolutely saves money (time) if you look at how long it takes to plumb a whole house or building. For a home owner, it's a waste, unless you hire a pro plumber.
I bought the Milwaukee 12 volt system, never looked back, if you ever hired a plumber $1000.- $1500 does not go far, most of the plumbing I do is under kitchen sinks, bathroom vanities, crawl spaces, one point to remember the press fittings are one use only, think twice, press once. One thing I will mention if you used a press cap at the end, that is maybe the most expensive press fittings, you could have likely put on another ball valve for just a dollar or two more and had a water heater shut off valve, maybe the cap is shark bite and you can reuse it, I enjoy your videos. When I replace a valve in a tight run like that I cut the valve, which releases the water inside and reduces the mass to heat up, heat and remove the collar left on pipe, wipe off solder, clean pipe, sometimes that half inch of pipe you save, saves a lot of work
I use that tool all the time on a 50 yr old apartment complex. Love it! No failures.
Yes the ball valve works in either direction, but pay attention to where the handle may be as it swings 90 degrees from on to off. Otherwise you may find it hits another pipe, another valve, the wall, etc
I agree,i think he may have turned it around,the nub on the valve is the stop.the way he had it to open it you turn that one clockwise hitting the wall.good catch.
Not to be too picky. There are gate ball valves I use in the basement the include a drain port. That has to be positioned to allow the down stream plumbing to drain after the gate valve is off.
It would be great if they made wheel style handles for ball valves. The handles are easy enough to remove and replace. I suppose you could cut a straight handle down so it's shorter when you have no other option due to space constraints.
@@virtuallyrealistic gate valves are no match for a ball valve, they jam, leak , and any dirt in the line and they wont shut off properly.
@@virtuallyrealistic Any contamination will cause the gate to not seat fully. Then the seat erodes. As long as you're going to sweat one of those monsters on, you might as well use a ball valve.
He was spending a lot of money to avoid sweating a valve on but even using an extra $25 on materials to practice with, it still wouldn't equal anywhere near the cost of that crimping tool.
That is, if you bought, for practice, an extra 1/2" pipe ($20), a ball valve ($12), 8 couplings (97¢ each), solder, and flux, torch and tank, you're only into it about an extra $60. And you have something to start your campfire with.
I'm an old school DIYer and I would solder all the connections. Even if you have to buy a torch, the cost is a small fraction of other methods and this method has been used successfully for years. To me it's the gold standard.
Decades not years, otherwise your comment is awesome.
I encourage you to keep up with your instruccions, your videos or whatever you call them. You happen to be a great communicator!!!, therefore we are able to understand and review everything you tell us...!!
I am not a plumber but needed a water line to a fridge with water and an ice maker in the door, the fridge is in an extension part of the house that is exposed to subfreezing temps. The plumber wanted $2000 to run 13 feet of pipe and valves to the fridge. I did it myself for less than $50, I put in the pipe, shutoff valves, and a place to drain off the water outside so the exposed pipe doesn't freeze, all using shark bite fittings and ball valves. did this over a year ago and still no leaks or frozen pipes. As a truck driver, I did well.
Plummers are not a profession, they are a crime organization
Normally if a plumber quotes you THAT much to do that job, it means they just don't want to do it or be bothered.
Too expensive
Yeah, plumbers are especially lately becoming way too expensive.
I owned six rental units with very old plumbing for about 25 years. Each time an existing globe valve would fail I would replace it with a ball valve (with a drain). I love them. They are very easy to open and close (1/4 turn) and very easy to see if they are closed or open from across a room. My father taught me how to sweat copper pipes when I was a kid, so that's never been an issue for me. Also, I only own close quarters pipe cutters. Once I found them I never bought another set of the regular kind. I use the CQ ones for everything with no trouble.
I am a Jamaican and I like your illustration.
especially when you just smoke a joint heeee heeee
I've always soldered pipes together. Works well for me.
I Love the Idea, it’s not only is easier it also prevents you from from burning the house . $175.00 is a well worth Investment
If you are going to burn the house down, then you should not be doing any plumbing work and stick to your day job where you won't hurt anyone or yourself.
I prefer the solder method. It's old school but if done correctly will last many years trouble free. Installing the ball valve is the way to go!
Something tells me personally I will lean towards solder joints longterm but also interested in getting some experience with these press fittings as I have seen so many making the shift.
My last house was over a hundred years old with original soldered plumbing, and not a single leak!
With Pro-press they have rubber O-Rings that will fail. Just imagine a whole house with Pro-press installed everywhere and they all randomly start failing!
Those in the plumbing industry love the Pro-press, SharkBite's for repeated emergency overtime pay! 🤑
I have a property maintenance company; we use sharkbit all the time "10+ years now", benefits of sharkbit over Brazing or press fittings g is you don't loss pipe length due to removal/replace. Sharkbit is 100% removable, replaceable and reliable.
Good video for the most part. However, press type fittings (including Sharkbite) are ok for external pipe connections that can be monitored regularly. Personally, I would never use press fittings inside of walls (yes, I know people do it all of the time). I have seen way too many press fittings leak, even when installed by so-called "professionals."
Also sweating (soldering) copper pipe is fairly cheap and easy. Just make sure the pipes and fittings are cleaned and deburred. Use Flux on the pipe and fitting, and apply heat to the opposite side of the solder contact. This will draw the solder into the gaps between the pipes and fittings, properly sealing the connection for many years. Soldering copper pipe takes some practice, but it is a lot cheaper than spending $175 on a crimping tool that you may only use once or twice. Hey, we can't have too many tools though, can we?....lol.
Finally, ball valves are great. They are much more durable and convenient (also more expensive) than globe/gate valves. Just don't buy thin metal, cheaply made ball valves, and they will last (almost) forever. When buying ball valves always look for "full-port" ball valves, so you don't lose water volume. What is the point of having a 3/4" pipe if the ball valve only has a 1/2" hole?" Also, water-knock can be an issue with ball valves on an often-used connection (like a garden hose). This is because the opening and closing of the ball valve is instant, and not gradual like with a gate/globe valve. However, this can be overcome by closing the ball valve slowly.
This is just my 2 cents on the subject. Hopefully this helps all of those DIYers out there. 👍👍
For sure its going to help guys like me who own a home and depend on videos and detailed instructions from guys like you.
Well I have to use sharkbite as my shutoff is in-between walls and 12 inches below the basement ceiling. Thanks once again.
Hi, Sorry I haven't heard of press fittings leaking inside walls if done properly.
@@jayak3768 Those things leak all the time, all the pipes at my work are installed by long term Journeymen plumbers and I see them leaking all the time, slow drips with visible corrosion from where it is leaking.
@@zekehu7701 I WOULD NEVER USE A PUSH FITTING VALVE ON THE MAIN SHUT OFF. Your insurance company is gonna love you. There's ALWAYS a way to do it correctly.
You are correct. Best to check your jurisdiction. Some ONLY allow a rising stem or gate valve on the main shut off to avoid water hammer or shock from abrupt shut off. The gate valve makes this impossible.
I like Sharkbite fittings. They are easy and never had any issues with them being a DIYer.
One other tip, instead of using a Sharkbite Cap in general, I like to use a Sharkbite coupling with a short piece of pex with a plug crimped in. Then when ready to run more pipe, simply remove the PEX and continue with PEX or copper. I've used Sharkbites professionally for 15-20 years (since Cash Acme 2st came out with them), never had a problem.
If you are unable to shut the water off completely, (small dribble) these fittings and press will work great, unlike solder. I have one of these presses and it is well worth the money.
Love shark bite, just did my entire house from 60 year old Galvanized steel to Copper pipe with shark bite connectors. They are the best!!
If you were using those 'Bite' connectors should have just went to PEX. If you're not going to sweat the joints, no point in using copper.
You re-did your entire house!? Shark bites are NOT the best, they are for emergency repairs only! The fitting will fail, it's just a matter of time.
I used SharkBite four times and they have all worked perfectly. I terminated a .25” copper tube and I have three shutoff, quarter turn valves under the sink. No leaking with any of them. I can see and access all the valves (they’re not behind a wall).
That crimp tool looks like a nice quality tool. I have a Milwaukee Force Logic but I like the fact that you can use the fittings without shelling out $2000. There are some places where soldering isn’t safe. No hot work permit and no sprinkler heads going off but for $175. Nice!
I have a big, old soldering iron that I use in such cases when I cannot use a flame torch. I've even used soldering coppers in the past with my heater outside.
A big 4 lb copper can do 3 or 4 joints before cooling.
Have used sharkbites several years on numerous project's. Extremely satisfied with ease of installation. No special tools required. Have used on both copper and plastic type pipes. Never a leak Very convenient for DYI in remote,, tight, or potentially flammable locations. Concur with comments concerning cost of snakebite but considering savings in purchase of and required knowledge in using more sophisticated tools still preferable for average user.
Same here, I have an old leaky main right now that I am cutting out and using sharkbite, 15 minutes start to finish. Cue all the regular plumbers coming in and shitting on sharkbite and pex.
@@jwall62 There shit dont be lazy.
@@RadioRich100 or they’re so easy anyone can do it and plumbers don’t like that. Showed my wife how to do it and she did it in less than five minutes.
@@jwall62 Whats she going to do when it starts leaking?
@@RadioRich100 there will probably be better technology in 20 years when it might fail, but we’ll have to wait and see.
I bought the same tool .Great video explaining the operation of the tool. Mixing in shrak bite couplings is the best option in tight spaces the shark bite fittings allows 360 turning of the pipe a win win
I'm a plumber and I use pro press and mega press frequently, you did a good job ,but I would have pre fitted it where all I had to do was 2 presses on the wall to eliminate fatigue. It's much easier to sub assemble on a bench or floor then to do a bunch of crimps on a wall, also most jurisdictions require a minimum of 3/4 feed lines to water heaters
Hi Will thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I was surprised on the 1/2” main.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs
The main is Size according to Water Pressure from the Street., you are suppose to upsize to 3/4 leading to the Hot water Tank.
I prefer to Silver Solder Copper lines that are hidden. Pipes that are exposed, pipes around a hot water unit for example it's neater and better looking to use a press tool.
I’m pretty sure All Jurisdictions require 3/4 pipe into and out.
Most codes call for a 3/4 supply no more than 3 fixtures.
You have someone in your comments saying code should be 3/4 supply line. Mobile homes don’t have all the same codes as most building codes. I’m really not sure why mobile homes get away with undersized water piping and undersized drain pipes.
But they do!!!!
Justice, I’ve been a plumbing contractor for Just over 50 years. How about yourself??
There's a lot to said for old school heat and solder joints. Simple and solid.
I used threaded ball valve with thread-to-solder coupling. Makes it easier to replace the ball valve. Also don't want to spend $190 (tax included) for a crimp tool. Nice video!
Isn't that a male adapter?
I'm a chief engineer as many situations come up- for copper piping I only go with old school- sweat fittings it's a solid seal as the solder bonds to both sides of the pipe ( male and female) no slipping no chance of coming loose. In some situations I can see saving time with these press fittings, but in time I can see them leaking. Plus all round fittings and supplies are just so much cheaper. Just my thought....
Job security. I can’t understand sharkbites passing plumbing code when the "bite" part is metal into copper. Electrolysis will eventually eat one or the other dissimilar metals.
I love SharkBite! The ability to easily disassemble fittings to tune projects by making adjustments is worth every penny of the premium cost.
😂😂😂. Sharkbites are trash. I make good money taking out sharkbites that leak
@@parkerjohnson1781 And this press fittings, kept by friction, sealed with the same O-ring doesn't leak?
@@MariuszChr propress fittings are less likely to leak if pressed with a press gun which are expensive and the pipe is properly cleaned and reamed and installed by a professional. Shark bites are usually installed by homeowners,handymen,and shitty plumbers and tend to leak from poor installation. The only time I use shark bites are for isolating and testing leaks on manifolds or temporary repairs. I prefer to solder if I can cuz it's an art to create beautiful joints. Pressing joints saves time which saves money.
The shark bite fittings are great for me, as I didn't need to use the torch to fix my leak. Which coincidentally was while trying to fix an outside hose valve! I should of watched your video first. I am so not a plumber, but these make it where I can fix things myself. Thank you
I use shark bite. Have it on my laundry room for my cold and hot water lines inside wall with an access panel. Have been there for 8 years. No leak, no problem. Great video!!
Soldering a new fitting is pretty simple and a lot cheaper, but this is interesting and looks like a good option.
I had the boiler replaced at home and the contractor used this style of compression fittings. They did have to sweat a couple of the connections but 99% were done with cordless crimp tool. I think the time it took them to sweat the couple fittings was longer than the time to crimp the others. Also, with this system there is no flame so way safer from a fire hazard standpoint, especially in tight areas near any framing.
Ya you replaced it! 😀👍
I'm a sharkbite skeptic, but also guilty of using them. I never put them in wall though.
Sharkbite uses plastic and it has not proven how long it will last until the plastic part is disintegrated.
@@scota.3898 The plastic bit is only applicable for pex. The pressure bearing part is brass and the seal is an o ring. Crimp fittings use the same type o ring.
Never had a problem with sharkbite's. I'm a builder, 40 yrs, and when these came out it's a super easy repair. Quick and clean and most of all no fire and no expensive tools. Another advantage is going from metal to pvc to pex etc with ease.
So you put your name and phone number on each one? A plumber worth a damn doesnt use them.
@@RadioRich100 Normally when someone says 'I'm a builder' = 'quickest, cheapest method'. Once these builders finish the last home and are out of the 'warranty period' they file bankruptcy or dissolve the shell company or LLC....and start all over. Once people start having flooded homes they're long gone. Seen it before.
@@vincemajestyk9497 Tell the know it all guy that has this channel that.
The best for me as a homeowner and non professional experience is using the shark bite fitting. Great tool for pros though. Thank you for sharing
Good tool and great comunicator so that we can learn how to do it ourselves.... Bravo for you
WOW!!! THANKS, FOR ALL OF YOUR GREAT, DEMO VIDEOS!!! I JUST GOT MY IWISS CRIMP TOOL, TOO!! ....I'LL BE INSTALLING A REPLACEMENT "TANKLESS WATER HEATER", AS SOON AS IT ARRIVES!!.... (MAYBE IN ANOTHER WEEK).
Nice, welcome to the channel and best of luck with the install 👍
I use pro-press from 1" to 3" large Ridgid corded tool. Heavy, but surprisingly well-balanced and easier to get into spaces than it looks. Works great, primarily for commercial, because it's permanent. Only way to remove is to cut, lose some length of cc oppper.
One tip, There's a built-in stop. Just push onto pipe until it stops, unless using a slip repair coupling. The 11/16 for 1/2" is just for planning/measurements.
Way Better Than Shark Bite for a permanent repair. I try to only use pro press when i can. Haven't had many issues after thousands of connections. The issues where usually due to installer error. Great product overall. First time i have seen a manual version in use. Thanks for the demo!
I know I’m a year late but I think it was a great instructional video. I’m not a shark bite user, it’s great for homeowners but as a pro , we sweat and press. My only feed back on pressing is that every failure I’ve found was someone 1. Didn’t clean the pipe well 2. The fitting wasn’t pushed in all the way 3. If you are using a battery pro press machine , the battery wasn’t charged all the way . Press fittings have been a time saver and a liability saver versus using a torch. Press valves are especially helpful in the places that you can’t turn the water fully off or there is a lot of drain down.
💯 can be a life saver for sure 👍 Thanks for the feedback
I tried a Sharkbite elbow on a pipe with a (very) little bit of solder on it. It wouldn't bite on the pipe. Then I installed a plastic Nibco(?) fitting on the same pipe, and it worked flawlessly. Several months later, I sweat a copper elbow, sleeping better now.
I struggle to sweat valves, so I could justify renting one of those crimping tools.
I was hesitate using sharkbites at first but I'm a believer now. Installed several with no failures for about 5 yrs. It is the sharkbite brand that I use. No experience with other similar brands. These were invented in Australia.
I still can't figure out how they work so darn good!
I would recommend "round off" the edge of pipe with a sand cloth so you're less likely to damage o ring, and dipping either pipe or fitting into a cup of water also makes it easier to push on
Pro. 30 years +. North East upstate NY. Never had a shark Bite or equivalent fail, or freeze off. Scores copper good in a freeze, never plows or moves on PEXa. Love them for leak fix when sweat will never work.
Just did this at home and surprisingly it did not leak!!!! It was incredible. Let me say… as a girl… it was hard to install but totally worth it!!! 🎉🎉
I used sharkbite fitings on my hot water tank they work great with no leaks after 10 years.
i am an old time solder guy thats a excellent video
I installed a main shutoff with a shark bite bulb valve with out shutting off the water and not even a cup of water was spilled. On the fly. 6years later still solid.
I work as property maintenance for 10 years at the same place. We have many maintenance techs fix leaks with sharkbite fittings. As the years go by, more and more leaks seem to pop up. All due to Shark bites started leaking. We have plumbers come out fix them properly. They all say the same thing. The see slot if Shark bites leak after 3-5 years due to hiw bad the hard water in our area is. I seen pro press and it worth investing in the tools. Simple to do and use. Plus saves alot of time then soldering. Recommend saving up for it if you do properly maintenance maintenance. It a live save. We can fix our pipes and not have to pay over price plumber to come out, and do job in 30mins or less with pro press fittings.
Shark bite fittings will also allow the valve or fitting to rotate which you may not want. I would use a crimped coupling to extend the valve away from the wall, then solder a ball valve, because the soldered valve can then be easily replaced if necessary. It’s also a good idea to place a pressure gauge upstream and downstream of your water regulator so that you know how well the regulator is functioning and when it is failing. It will also tell you if your street pressure is too high in which case you might want to use 2 regulators. One of which would be a “step down” regulator.
. This would only be necessary if the street pressure exceeds 150 psig. Normally house pressure would be set at about 55 or 60 psig. The higher the street pressure, the shorter the life of the regulator because it must work much harder to maintain house pressure.
Or install a valve-switched bypass for the PRV with a gauge downstream of both. That way, it's just 1 gauge and you're prepped to change out the PRV when needed.
I noticed that too, should have extended the copper pipe before placing the ball valve.
Shark bite fittings are great ,those press fittings are hard to use and are not reusable if make a mistake,sharkbites cane used over and over again.i keep some fittings and pipe on hand for emergency repairs. I live in a trailer with the old polybutalane pipe so I get a lot of leaks👍
For a water heater overflow I think sharkbite is perfect. You can remove the sharkbite and put back when you swap out the water heater.
If you solder or propress, you may need new piping every time you get a new water heater.
I use a similar tool from Vevor and I have used MLCP fittings. For the weekend DIY warrior they are a great tool ...my cost was about £70 ($95), definitely worth it...👍🏻
I am a fading PEX fan . My difficulty is how a PEX connection will spin . For example a ball valve will always face down and move when trying to operate the valve . I work in apartment and nursing home environments . I run into a variety of plumbing styles depending on the age of the pipe I'm working on . I am moving towards using a crimper for PEX , or compression fittings when working with older lines . A common problem has been swelled lines from a winter freeze . The 1/2 copper will need cut at a point where there is no swelling . At that point I lean to PEX and quick connects . PEX has made it easy for me to make a continuous run & avoid in the wall connections . I find that I am choosing material (copper or PEX) and fitting depending on what I am working on and the environment that I am in.
Hey Scott,
I had a house in California which had tubing in the slab. Cheap. The hot water tubing started leaking (of course, maybe a topic for a future video.) Not wanting to jackhammer the slab, I bypassed. My then future (now ex) wife was impressed that I was using a utility knife to cut two slots across all of the walls to re-pipe lol. That job was not fun! I used red Pex and the rings and fittings needed a plier similar to what you have there. It's huge! I still have it. It was 3/4" because I sure wasn't getting more than one plier, and the bits weren't changeable like yours.
Man, I had to drill 1" holes in all of the studs and put in steel plates to prevent future people from drilling into the Pex. Did drywall repair, painting, texturing and I surprised myself that it was impossible to tell the difference when I was done. I think that was why she married me, but she divorced me because I couldn't get a job lol. Easy come easy go maybe? Don't know. 😁
The point of this comment is to convey what a pain it is to get those huge clamping pliers into walls or any tight spaces. It worked and I saved having a plumber come out and charge thousands of dollars, so you sweat the stuff you have to do but please repeat to yourself, think of what I'm saving. Of course, not everyone will succeed, so mileage will vary.
Anyway, awesome video!!
Ken
We used sharkbite fittings to install my new water heater 15 years ago. They never leaked in the 15 years they were on. I decided to put new ones on when the water heater failed this year, because I'm sure that o-ring will eventually deteriorate in the sharkbite fitting.
Been using compression fittings on my home without issues. Cheap effective....
Just bought that tool....it feels good to know I can be done that easy...
Just watched your globe valve repair and HAD to watch this one. I have PEX tools, NIBCO crimp tools, torch and solder, as well as wrenches. You present a lot of good information and options. This is where I have to showcase the error of your way. NIBCO manufactures some amazing products that I can use all of the tools listed above to install which ever product the customer spec's. This is where contemporary marketing bites us all in the A$$.
You repaired a globe valve with a little knowledge, sweat equity and $0.30 worth of materials. That valve is now good for another 50 year run and if maintained will last indefinitely. I commented on that episode. Do not misunderstand, I love 1/4 turn balls for replacements and new installs.
You have shown the replacement with a NIBCO 1/4 turn press fit ball valve at a cost of $30.00. Not to mention the "Special Tool" which can be had for $100.00 and change. This valve has no serviceable parts has a rubber O-ring and deforms the pipe.
Now here is the rub. 1/2" PEX 1/4 turn ball vlv will run about $6.00 and the tool $40 and no serviceable parts or rubber O-rings. SharkBite or equivalent 1/2" 1/4 turn ball vlv is about $17.00, is reusable, requires no special tool, does not deform the pipe and has no serviceable parts or rubber O-rings. Let me just stipulate that 1/4 turn valves have no serviceable parts. You replaced a functioning serviceable valve with a WAY more expensive and potentially inferior Valve. The jury is still out. Unlike the Quest plumbing of the past that was manufactured using inferior materials, NIBCO has introduced a potential weak point in their "Press Fit" line.
Recall the galvanic corrosion on the globe valve and the state of the stem packing and the washer. That corrosion and decay were caused by minerals in the water. The globe valve is infinitely serviceable with new packing, washers and Plumbers Grease. The NIBCO O-ring is NOT serviceable and is subject to the same decay. It may be prolonged by coating the O-ring with Plumbers Grease, this will also aid in installation, but that O-ring WILL eventually FAIL. Ask NASA.
Don't be fooled by marketing. A trickle of water started the Grand Canyon, it will level a house!
Thanks for all the feedback 👍
I hardly ever respond in the comments but I agree with Jamie. If it were me, I would have put a male compression fitting on the copper then crimped on a female fitting to the pex line then attached the 1/4 turn PEX ball valve.
The propress and Sharkbite fittings or Valves I find best to use when you want to avoid Burning anything, a large home with any water in the line when you need a fast repair done anywhere, and when using sharkbites I always look to see if the O rings are greased properly to avoid a dry connection! Love that you made sure the copper was well cleaned before installing the propress to Prevent leaks! As a 20 yr plumber I prefer Propress over sharkbite When really needed! Besides that I try to solder anything I can
Looked good. Wish you had saved me time with finding out how long it is guaranteed to last. Thanks, HAGO
I prefer using male adapters and a threaded valve, so it is easier to replace the valve if needed.
Yeah I never solder valves
I never press or solder valves. I always also use threaded or compression fitting valves. Just better for any future repair because nothing lasts forever.
@@Kerbros100 Soldered valves are fine since you can remove them.
@@DragonBuilds Sure but here in Sweden you need to get the hotwork permit just as you look at the torch. If it wasnt for that i agree with you 100% =)
GREAT IDEA!!!.... => VERY SMART!!!
Great Video! Never seen this done before, so you taught me a lot. Thanks!
I don't have a lot of plumbing projects, as a home owner, I like Sharkbite very much. Never had anything fail or leak on me. But this is a great video and let's me see that the press fitting option might be a good choice in the future..
I use a variety and it depends on what it is that may make the job easier. I'll use shark bite fittings on certain applications, and solder on others. I'm kind of liking the crimp fit a little more due to an area on a main water line that just wouldn't clear all the water out. Crimp fittings work well for that because soldering would have been a pain. So, the variety is great for the different scenarios you would encounter.
Next time you sweat a pipe that just will not quit dribbling water go get a piece of bread break off a piece roll it into a ball and stuff it into the leaky pipe when the water quits dripping go ahead and solder the joint. It works and the bread breaks down and flushes out the nearest outlet.
@@banditdog1338 the father of a friend of mine, showed us that trick back in the 60's. It made total sense and I have made use of it a few times.
I had no idea these fitting existed. I use SharkBites, because I am terrified of soldering-afraid I'll start a fire 🔥🔥🔥. I think I'd like to give these crimp fittings a try...tho, I am kinda a very new fan of PEX and the SharkBite EVOPex fittings...
I bought this tool for a whole house re-pipe following a deep freeze that burst many of the copper pipes. Fortunately, the water main was shut off and the house was vacant. All of the plumbing was in the unfinished basement. Several of the 70 year old copper solder joints blew apart as did the single shark bite connector that was used to repair a horizontal pipe. The 1" copper main blew open in the middle of a horizontal section of the pipe as did one of the 1/2" pipes. The main shutoff valve was also leaking a solder joint.
I own a Milwaukee ProPex expansion tool and chose Pex A for the repipe. But I wanted something other than Sharkbites to transition to the copper pipes I wasn't replacing. My experience was similar to the video but I couldn't get it to work between some of the floor joists because there wasn't enough room to open the jaws. It is also difficult to get the tool properly aligned on the fitting because it is relatively heavy and you need both hands to get the clamp to close.
All told, I'm pleased with the way the tool worked. I replaced the main shutoff valve without incident and kept a section of the verticle copper pipe because this is a 70 year old house and the electric panel is grounded to the water main. You can't do this with a Sharkbite because there is no continuity due to the plastic liner.
But if I ever do another re-pipe, I'm buying the Milwaukee power press tool.
Hey there I bought the same exact tool from Amazon paid $150 for it but all the adapters to do the job I used this tool once not only was it super easy great to handle and it's already paid for itself I recommend this way above shark bites it's more professional looking and it's definitely stronger
I am a fan of Sharkbite as well but agree this is a great alternative and nice to have an option to buy a crimper that isn't $1000's of dollars. What brand of Press Fittings did you use NIBCO or ProPress (Viega)? I used NIBCO just because they are stocked at the Menards in my area.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I used Viega cuz that's what was available but at the end of the day this system is 10 times better than SharkBite I think and my crimping tool looks exactly like the one you have same color telescopic arms and different size fittings half inch 3/4 1 in I have a couple more jobs to do in my house to fix the flood that I had so it's going to come in handy
We used a shark bite coupling in a daily use 1/2” copper feed at least 15 years ago also a shark bite cap on a 1/2” copper line about 10 years ago, both are still holding today in a commercial restaurant.
As handyman and property mgr.ive used hundreds of shak bites with no problems but I admit the press fitting are impresive
👍👍using the nibco press fitting is much simpler and quicker than sweeting copper pipes. I used the shark bite fittings on my hot water heater and It worked very well. I will switch to the nibco press fitting.🇬🇾🇬🇾🇬🇾🇬🇾
Simpler yes, but it's not much quicker at least not with 1/2" pipe
Im a diyer and I bought the milwaukee press tool and the pex expansion tool.
It just make sense.
Having sweat (3) 2 bath 1 kitchen apartments it no way in ever sweating copper again!
Its a pain in the but.
Dang! I'm jealous, those tools and a little know how can make short work of most plumbing projects. Do have have a bunch of rentals or flipping?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs rentals. I want to do some flips.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs yea they make everything easier to do.
IMO pex a is going to end copper for plumbing.
Im waiting for a flexible DWV system.
I have used Sharkbite for 17 years for those hard-to-reach places and zero problems so far. I manage our own rental property.
When doing some updating on my daughters home I used shark bite fittings in 21 places as well as shark bite ball valves on all sinks and faucets. I know that the shark bite fittings were pricey, but I had time constraints involved. To spend $175 on that crimping tool would be cost effective only if I were going to be doing a lot more plumbing. I know how to sweat the copper, but the shark bites were so quick. My daughter has lived in her home now over 10 years with no leak issues. And I’ve had to sweat a copper line only once in the last 10 years. So, for me I have to say I loved using the shark bites.
Thanks for the feedback!
However sharks have been known to blow off. Had it happen. Now I only use the if ever on an exposed connection.
@@mikecase9365 I have had 1 inch elbows and couplings on my incoming well water line for 11 years now. When I 1st use them I had one blow off, but only because I didn't understand I would encounter 2 points of resistance during insertion. 1st on the stainless steel teeth and then again at the o ring. Properly deburred pipe inserted to fully seated depth will have zero issues.
i own 11 rental properties and i handle all maintenance issues when they arise. ALL PLUMBING IS PEX PIPE AND SHARK BITE FITTINGS. NEVER HAD A SINGLE FAILURE FROM EITHER. SOME SHARKBITE FITTINGS ARE A LITTLE PRICEY BUT THE CONVENIENCE IS PRICELESS.
I like to keep sharkbite caps on hand in the event of a leak, but prefer soldered joints as it's a dying art, and as a hobbiest, it's a skill I need to maintain
Yes not of us oldschool plumbers left out there there's nothing plum with pex copper you make it level and straight
Sharkbites are okay for temporary repairs but nothing permanent
yea, thinking of an emergency leak kit, a pipe cutter, some shark fittings of diff sizes. ready to go, just cut and cap; but for real, anything permanent, I don't want to have to worry about future failure, soldered joint can be tested, if its not leaking now, its not going to leak later...... is it?
You can buy ball valves like you showed with compression fittings . Not the small shutoff valves for faucets and toilet supply .
Since technology advanced and plumbers got Fancy with these super gadgets to make soldering obsolete soldering is still the number one solution for a leak-free copper pipe. End of story
I love shark bite fittings quick repairs had a service call customer was working on his plumbing in basement thought water was off cut pipe water shot out an main didn't hold so I used shark bite to stop leak then went out to main shut it off an installed new main ball valve
Installed that type valve on water line at the vet clinic I work at probably 678 years ago and have had zero problems with them
I rarely use Sharkbites, but thank God they exist. A Sharkbite coupling just saved me a lot of pain this week. I try to put them in a place in the line where they will be trapped in place, and never use them to cap a live water line. Not permanently, anyway. I'll probably increase my stock of them in the future. Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. Cheers.
I have used the battery operated crimpers and they are indeed very quick and efficient, but they are very expensive. I have been looking at these manual crimpers on eBay for a while, but have been hesitant. Thanks. I will be more inclined to buy one now
I am a DIY'er who thinks ahead, such as what if I have to change this? I can reflow solder, or release a Sharkbite, but what do you do with these fittings?? Does it permanently deform the pipe to the point it cannot be reworked? Looking forward to a video on that topic...
Yes, it is permanent. That is why I prefer solder.
If you're going to rework you a solder joint or this you have to cut the pipe so I don't see it as a big issue. You can do this and not worry about water. If you solder you can have to make sure everything is dray.
had the same question....
I used shark bite ends when I installed a water softener system two years ago. They were easy to use and no issues so far
press fittings seem like professional option, they look great, and aren't cheapo pex.
Enjoyed your video. very informative . thanks
Thanks Sammy!
When it comes to a main water inlet, my biggest problem was dealing with the city water department. The street valve is unique and the city was the only ones allowed to turn it off or on. Took a day off work and called the water department to shut off the water. Three hours later a young kid showed up and couldn't get the street valve closed and had to call a supervisor to help him. At this point, I didn't care if the ball valve cost me $50. I just wanted that valve in the warm house installed and working. Of course this was all happening on a January day and the temperature was 14 degrees outside. I sweated the new ball valve on and again had to call the water department again to have them come out to turn the water back on (another 2 hour wait). All in all, spent an entire day changing out one valve.
I would suggest calling the city to turn the water off at the street as if you somehow wreck the underground valve you maybe responsible where the city know better. Not sure if there is a charge for that depending on the municipality. Something we did with press fit, is when the fitting is fully engaged mark it with a marker to make sure it does not slip out on you. If so you know. Otherwise nice job and advice. I like the way you put the vice grips on the pipe to hold it out of the wall for the press.
Thanks for the feedback Tom and calling the city/water company is probably the best bet for most people especially with the sensors commonly found in the water box now.
Shark bites are great, can be used to connect two different types of pipe no problems. Used them when I upgraded my waterheater. Limited space so SB's were the way to go.
Hey Robert thanks for the feedback and with limited space I agree Sharkbite fittings can come in pretty handy 👍
I concur. Why have a large expensive specialized tool hanging around after you are done with the renovations? Sharkbite valves also rotate after installation, useful for making your flexible connections look neat and straight.
Yes, once in winter temperature was very cold outdoor, I got copper pipe broken behind the indoor valve (closed) even though I had drained water out then closed the outdoor valve. It was not good for my basement. I repaired it as the same way you said. Outdoor valve (existing)-- copper pipe (existing in concrete) -- SB coupler - Flex pipe (new) -- new T valve (sharkBite) -- Flex pipe (new) -- SB coupler (new) -- SB valve (new) -- existing copper pipe.
By this configuration, before winter, I can respectively close the indoor valve, open outdoor valve, open T valve and drain completely water out (vacuum or air compressor). Finally close outdoor and T valves. No more thermal conduction to my indoor valve :-)
Also used to install the a new water heater several years ago. No leaks yet!
One of the greatest advantages of the press fittings over Sharkbite push-on fittings is the press fittings are full flow, just like a soldered fitting. Push on fittings have a significant reduction in inside pipe diameter.
Used to be a sweat-it guy. But the sharkbite works really well in tight spaces and for a one time fix, especially where you can't get the fitting dry. Yea, I know the bread trick. If I had a lot to do, the crimp would be the way to go, especially if you can justify the power crimper.
This was a great video, well explained. Thanks 👍
Thanks Peter
Some ball valves have a drain on them, just like a globe valve. In that case they are directional. There should be an arrow cast into the brass body showing which way they should be installed to be able to drain the side that gets shut off. Another consideration is the example case is make sure there is enough room for the valve's handle to swing it's full travel. It would suck if you installed the valve only to find out that it's so close to the wall that you can't shut it off!
Valves with the drain are typically called "waste stop valves."
I have used shark bite about 4yr ago and no issues. I am dyi guy and love it
You did an awesome job on this video, but a couple things you did not mention:
1) Most copper already installed in houses is Type M copper (thin walled tubing). Press fittings, last time I checked, can only be used on Type L copper pipe (thicker walled tubing), otherwise it will crush/deform the copper pipe and it will leak. The only way to remedy that is to solder the first fitting and section of Type L copper pipe to the existing pipe, then use press fittings from then on.
2) The battery powered press tools, the most common one is the Milwaukee ProPress or a MegaPress, can be rented for approximately $50/day + a $250 deposit. The deposit will be refunded, so long as you don't damage the unit or lose any parts for the tool.
2a) The battery powered press tools are calibrated, or should be, regularly to ensure the fitting is sealed right every time, plus they give you the added benefit of having one hand free to hold the fitting so it doesn move so it seals properly. MAKE SURE YOU CENTER THE PROPRESS TOOL FROM SIDE TO SIDE OR IT WILL NOT SEAL, AND YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT EVERYTHING OUT AND REPLACE EVERYTHING YOU JUST INSTALLED! And, don't install press fittings butt to butt - leave a length of pipe that is at least the length of the diameter of the pipe between fittings, or it will NOT seal.
3) The outside, not just the inside, of the pipe needs to be deburred or it can cut or nick the o-ring in the press fitting and cause a leak. The best deburring tool for deburring the outside of the pipe basically looks like a hand held lime reamer and can be used to deburr both (in/out)side of the pipe., and can be found at most hardware stores.
I am not a Journeyman Plumber, yet, however, I have been Plumbing full time for three years, and I have been learning from a Commercial Journeyman Plumber, who has 23 years of experience.
Again, awesome job, keep up the good work, and I'll catch you again next time!
P.S. Phase two and three on your gate valve, or as you called it, globe valve, video was extremely useful. I will certainly utilize those. Thank you!
Thanks for the great feedback Dan. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs
No problem, glad to help!
Sweating the copper is not difficult in such a wide open space! Thanks!
Shark Bite fittings work great. Also ball valve handles can be flipped.
Nice work leaving the lid of the shut off valve off so someone can fall down it
sharkbite worked ok for me... easy and removable. Saturday pinhole sweating will not work in vertical pipes with water inside. shut off valve at the curb not accessible. i used a new valve and a sharkbite connector. problem solved.
Very well explained. Liked this video very much. Thanks.