Відео

A well-done video, but boy does this look complicated!

I’ve watched a few of your videos now and I would like to say I’m enjoying them! I have heard you say multiple times in different videos about needing GFCI outlets which is borderline true. I’m in the US and GFCI protection is required on certain circuits but that protection can be a GFCI breaker at your panel or a GFCI outlet as you show. If it’s at the panel then the whole circuit is protected and purchasing a GFCI outlet is redundant and if anything may cause problems on a circuit that has a GFCI breaker as well. Just my two cents when stating people NEED to purchase GFCI outlets.

Unless I missed it you never explained why you removed 2 inches of the copper pipe instead of 3 inches or whatever length. Why 2 inches?

Proper plumber's cloth is a wildly unhelpful bit of info, WHAT GRIT???? For Buna N O'Rings you should go as fine as you have patience for. A polished mirror surface is not too fine. no one will do it but it's a great surface against which to seal. I use a woodworking hand plane (small block plane) to put the chamfer on the end. If I were doing a whole house or as a vocation, I'd buy the specialty tool. Depth of fit ? I just measure the inside of the fitting.

I used a total of 6 shark bite fittings for my water heater and they do just fine. Part pex piping and the other copper. Just make sure you cut the pipe the right way and that it's clean. Haven't had a leak since I installed them.

unfortunately making these mistakes means you didn't even bother reading and abiding by the direction that are very clear from Sharkbite.... maybe best to let someone else do the work...... just saying.... I'm not a contractor, but am building my own home as an owner - builder... it is important to follow directions.....

What are the advantages and disadvantages of using a metal junction box instead of a plastic one and vice versa

This is very well explained, i finally understood it now after decades of being confused.

Thx for the video, exactly what I was looking for - the only video I found showing me how to replace an existing box on an existing wall where a stud is available. I knew what to do but it is nice to have confirmation

1:25 materials 2x6x16"

I have this tool also love it very handy plan on getting the two speed model as soon as I can

I’m so frustrated. I have a slump block house that was built in 1967. At some point, the owners added drywall and insulation over top of the slump block. The original outlets and switches were sunk into the drywall when the home was built, so they are set back about 2.5”. I’ve been slowly replacing outlets and switches, and adding extension rings to the boxes. All of the switches and outlets had flat head screws, that use a flat head screw driver. These are a pain in the butt to screw and unscrew as the slot where you put the screw driver is very shallow. So I wanted to replace all the screws while I was at it with phillips flat head machine screws. But I’ve run into a problem. 6-32 screws are way too big, and it seems that also 4-33 screws are also too big to go into the outlet boxes. The outlet boxes are of course older 2x3 boxes, and apparently they use an entirely different screw size. I cannot find a screw that fits that is at least 2 1/4” long and I’m losing my mind. Any thoughts?

I'm a big fan of Shrkbite. Never had one leak, and I have them everywhere. Use only VERY FINE GRADE sandpaper

Well explained.

keep in mind that most 15a breakers will not actually trip until 17a or so. they are variable and not exact.

#16 extension cord should not be manufactured for 15A circuits.

Thanks! I had a slow drip after a shut off Valve, I had to saw the pipe and didn’t make a 90° cut, got a pipe cutter and the Debur tool and viola! No more leak

Nice! This might convince me to get the Worx table.

Don't sand copper pipe when using shark bite fittings, or if you must use something really fine grit. Better yet just avoid the stupid things all together.

I am surprised you did not mention an open splice hidden in a wall or under kitchen cabinets. I just found one in my house under the kitchen sink cabinet that was arcing against the wood of the cabinet. The disposal had started leaking, water got under the floor of the sink cabinet, it got the Romex wet including the paper and was actively arcing when I took the cabinet floor out. The dishwasher also was not grounded as the the bare copper grounds at the open splice were never connected. Open splices should never happen, that splice should have been in a junction box and either mounted in the back of the cabinet on the vertical wall or in a non-damp cabinet. What happened is the romex from the breaker panel was too short to go to the dishwasher so they spliced another wire in and buried the open splice under the sink cabinet(real genius level thinking) which is stupid and not NEC compliant. I am installing a steel junction box two cabinets from the sink that is properly grounded, using clamp connectors for each incoming wire, and using 12/2 W/G UF-B as it is allowed in damp and dry locations in the home to go under the sink and dishwasher to make the connection. The electrician even ran the romex through stamped hole(sharp edges) in a piece of sheet metal under the dishwasher, no grommet or wire protector. I am pissed as my house could have burned down had I not been home when I heard the arcing.

Informative. Thanks

…or buy a WorkMate.

great idea, thank you

Thanks. Subscribed.

Just yesterday I found an open splice under my kitchen sink cabinet that was arcing after my garbage disposal started leaking and the water got underneath the cabinet floor. The kicker was that the ground wire was not spliced/connected and just free floating in space. I am angry at whoever the electrician was that did that as my house could have burned down and now all of the wiring in the house is suspect.

I will put something to cover the lower pipe when I sand the upper pipe

I used a total of 6 shark bite fittings for my water heater and they do just fine. Part pex piping and the other copper. Just make sure you cut the pipe the right way and that it's clean. Haven't had a leak since I installed them.

I just don’t trust these connectors. Pex crimps or soldering copper is what gets me to sleep at night.

THANKS FOR THE TIPS

So if the joint did leak, what would you do to stop the leak?

Thank you! I was so confused. You saved the day.

👍

Speaker volume barely audible

Lets be honest here Mr. video man, and Im not trying to take your digital attentiton time away or food off your table or anything, Im simply asking, did this REAlly deserve a full video, demonstration and all with measurements and plans and a full on deep dive for put a bolt or screw in the bottom? just wondering.. 😂

Tried these out. Didn’t work, as my glasses were too “outward” in the forward direction from what I recall

Awesome video! Are Wagos code compliant in Canada?

My breaker trip my washing machine,shower switch hot water, step light, back light not coming on ,why

Great presentation. I would suggest for the first timers Dont do both at once. Do one at a time and test, have a spare on hand in case you manage to screw it up. It will not go to waste and you can return if you dont need it. What do you do if you find a leak?

Thanks a lot man! Really appreciate this! Loved your idea on how to hang them with and angle! Keep them nice ideas coming ❤️ I would also like to know how often do they need recharging, but i believe i can estimate it a bit, by looking at the product specifications. If you have any update regarding the recharging ease let me know 😁

This is a great video. I ordered the table since it is amazon prime day and it's on the way and plan to match your add on. Curious on the Kreg 320- what do you have that stop collar set to? 1 1/2? I see this setting changes for the 1 x 2 drilling as well, could you describe what those settings are? I am going to get one of those too as I've never owned one.

Curious, why don't you use wood glue for something like the 1x2s? there's not a lot of material to put pocket holes in...

Wow your awesome dude, thank you so much, ive been stresssing over how to do this and you just made my day!

I live in a huge building. My lights dim for just a second when I turn ANYTHING on. The induction range is on its own 50 AMP circuit that is shared by nothing else. When I turn on a stove driver \ element the lights in the whole unit dim for a second. The lights don't dim and stay dim. The lights dim for a split second and then come back up to full brightness. The breaker never trips. Only other thing I have connected is the K-Cup machine but it is not running at the time of the dimming. My range, refrigerator and dishwasher are all on separate breakers. Whenever I turn on something big the lights dim for a second and come back up immediately. Any hints on whats going on. Lazy Electrons maybe?! Should I be worried?!

Great information in this video. They do in fact sell brackets for this exact scenario. Type in "recessed light bracket" choose the size of the light and youre good to go!

Good, clear and instructional. Food for thought. 👍

Using the five wago in a single gamg box is fucking retarded. Thats ugly and if you use any real amperage on those outlets guarenteed the wagos wont last 10years

Great solution! I am planning to do this. Thanks!

Nice! Thanks for sharing, great idea. Here is another idea. I attached my Worx Pegasus to the garage wall using gate hinges and then built an adapter plate to mount a vise.

Great idea. Never too old to learn new tricks!

When you slid the first valve to the top pipe, did you slide it in further than the depth mark you made? Is this why you were able to slide it down to the black line you made?