Mister, you're doing the lords work. These are excellent instructional videos and have helped me a great deal. Thank you, and best of wishes to you and the channel.
Merry Christmas! Not even half an hour ago I was looking for a knurling tool for my Mazak, so this video comes in very handy as I have never done knurling on a CNC lathe. 😀
Lately i've been sick of using a knurling tool in our mazak's because of how much a pain it is to set the tool up so i've switched to using a threading tool to make the knurl instead and its very easy to setup and program and you get a perfect knurl every time. To do the knurl with a threading tool you need to first calculate your circumference of the diameter your cutting on. Then you take the circumference divide by 2 ( pitch of the knurl) this gives you the number of starts for your knurl. Then your lead by using trig with an angle of 60 degree for diamond knurl angle and the hypotenuse is your part circumference again. The last thing you need to do with all this information is write the threading unit with the calculated number of starts and the thread lead. For this to work correctly you need to program the thread unit to cut both ways so it doesn't lift off at the end of the thread so if your cutting from z0 to z1. on the first line you then need a 2nd line that cuts from z1. to z0 and this will give you a perfect knurl every time.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 It does work surprisingly well but not without its drawbacks. The cycle time definitely takes a hit because your typically cutting a 30-40 start thread even if you only take a single full depth cut. You also have to have a really slow cutting speed because of the number of starts and lead so I typically use a cutting speed of 100 for a thread on the knurl I had to go to about cutting speed of 10 because of how many starts are on the knurl any faster and you exceed the machines acceleration limit and alarms out. But even with those drawbacks I still prefer it because you get a consistent knurl every time, saves setting a tool because we almost always have a threading tool in the machines.
i want to try this but how do you "back off" and out or you don't? from Z0 to Z1 and vice versa ? so you won't chip the insert also when you say Circumfernece you mean C = 2∏r so like 2" diameter piece C is 6.2 pitch is 3.14? ? that's the N? basically?
@@derick3482 You don't actually back out so to speak like a typical thread where you cut one way, rapid out to start and cut the next depth. Instead what you do is you feed in from z0 to z1 then feed from z1 to z0 so at no point are you out of the cut all your doing is feeding both ways. This is how you achieve the x shape of the knurl. Using your example of a 2" diameter you are correct your circumference is 6.2" which would come out to a 80 start thread. Lead will be 5.4 or something like that. Angle will be 60 degrees. Thats all the info you need for the main part of the threading unit. You then need to program your 2 shape lines so on your first line start and finish point x will be your 2". Your start and finishing point z will be in this example z0. start point and z1. finish point now on your 2nd line you have both the same start and finish point in x your x2" again but this time your start point z is z1" and finish point z0" this way the threading insert doesn't disengage from the cut. One thing I should have mentioned is I use a grooving tool to put a chamfer and small relief groove at the end of the knurl that way when I program the z length of the knurl I program it so it goes into the groove so when the knurl changes direction to go back to start it is doing so in the groove so as not to chip the insert.
hi phil what are you using for your turning tools? KM63s ?is that an adapter inside a boring bar? i noticed a smilar tool in your INSIDE GROOVING FACE video where you TEACH machine it's a boring bar while it's a radius cutter with a button insert
Mister, you're doing the lords work. These are excellent instructional videos and have helped me a great deal. Thank you, and best of wishes to you and the channel.
Thanks for the compliment.
This was a great, and concisely made tutorial and we all thank you for it 🤘
Thanks for the compliment .
Merry Christmas! Not even half an hour ago I was looking for a knurling tool for my Mazak, so this video comes in very handy as I have never done knurling on a CNC lathe. 😀
You're welcome. Merry Christmas to you too.
Feliz Navidad muy muy interesante el moreteado Muchas gracias y un fuerte abrazo Saludos desde Oxnard California👍
Thank You Phil, Great video and demo. Merry Christmas.
Thank you.
Thanks for the compliment. Merry Christmas.
Nice Christmas present! Thank you!
You're welcome. Merry Christmas to you too!
Lately i've been sick of using a knurling tool in our mazak's because of how much a pain it is to set the tool up so i've switched to using a threading tool to make the knurl instead and its very easy to setup and program and you get a perfect knurl every time. To do the knurl with a threading tool you need to first calculate your circumference of the diameter your cutting on. Then you take the circumference divide by 2 ( pitch of the knurl) this gives you the number of starts for your knurl. Then your lead by using trig with an angle of 60 degree for diamond knurl angle and the hypotenuse is your part circumference again. The last thing you need to do with all this information is write the threading unit with the calculated number of starts and the thread lead. For this to work correctly you need to program the thread unit to cut both ways so it doesn't lift off at the end of the thread so if your cutting from z0 to z1. on the first line you then need a 2nd line that cuts from z1. to z0 and this will give you a perfect knurl every time.
Wow. I've never tried that but sounds fun!
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 It does work surprisingly well but not without its drawbacks. The cycle time definitely takes a hit because your typically cutting a 30-40 start thread even if you only take a single full depth cut. You also have to have a really slow cutting speed because of the number of starts and lead so I typically use a cutting speed of 100 for a thread on the knurl I had to go to about cutting speed of 10 because of how many starts are on the knurl any faster and you exceed the machines acceleration limit and alarms out. But even with those drawbacks I still prefer it because you get a consistent knurl every time, saves setting a tool because we almost always have a threading tool in the machines.
@@hdfanboy Thanks for the write up.
i want to try this but how do you "back off" and out or you don't? from Z0 to Z1 and vice versa ? so you won't chip the insert
also when you say Circumfernece you mean C = 2∏r so like 2" diameter piece C is 6.2 pitch is 3.14? ? that's the N? basically?
@@derick3482 You don't actually back out so to speak like a typical thread where you cut one way, rapid out to start and cut the next depth. Instead what you do is you feed in from z0 to z1 then feed from z1 to z0 so at no point are you out of the cut all your doing is feeding both ways. This is how you achieve the x shape of the knurl.
Using your example of a 2" diameter you are correct your circumference is 6.2" which would come out to a 80 start thread. Lead will be 5.4 or something like that. Angle will be 60 degrees. Thats all the info you need for the main part of the threading unit. You then need to program your 2 shape lines so on your first line start and finish point x will be your 2". Your start and finishing point z will be in this example z0. start point and z1. finish point now on your 2nd line you have both the same start and finish point in x your x2" again but this time your start point z is z1" and finish point z0" this way the threading insert doesn't disengage from the cut.
One thing I should have mentioned is I use a grooving tool to put a chamfer and small relief groove at the end of the knurl that way when I program the z length of the knurl I program it so it goes into the groove so when the knurl changes direction to go back to start it is doing so in the groove so as not to chip the insert.
Thank you ,Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you and your family.
Thank you so much. Merry Christmas and happy new year 2022.
Thanks. Same to you!
Great information
Thanks .
Keep them coming.
How come you didn’t show the knurled on the part closer?
Merry Christmas 🎅 🤶
I normally knurl programming a highlighted bar out works fine
Merry Christmas! Off topic question - are you programming chip conveyor or manual use?
My old machine only has a manual chip conveyor. Push the button and it runs nonstop.
Hi, im hace a problem with alarm 121 over travel, I'm can't reset. You can show me who can fix
hey Phil how would you do knurling on stainless?
also how do you polish stainless any clue?
Knurling on stainless would be same as aluminum only slower spindle speed and feeds. Polishing I use red Scotch Brite.
Merry Christmas sir.
Thanks. Merry Christmas to you too.
Hi Phil can you do a video on doing a slot on the outside diameter of a workpiece? Great videos as always!
Yes. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks..
Hi I lost the parameters of the machine I am using.. Is it possible for you to send me the parameters?
Thank you sir
You're welcome.
Sir please create the video boll turning
I think I have made a video like you want. Check out video titled Demo Part 2.
hi phil what are you using for your turning tools? KM63s ?is that an adapter inside a boring bar?
i noticed a smilar tool in your INSIDE GROOVING FACE video where you TEACH machine it's a boring bar while it's a radius cutter with a button insert
KM50. I retrofitted several holders to utilize the KM50 heads.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 like how though? can you show?>
@@derick3482 The KM50 adapters had a 2" shank that I turned down to fit a Mazak 40mm U-Drill holder.