Just got my new control arms from 1A Auto! Hopefully this weekend I can trek to my BILs, and get his help to put them on. He's got the garage and tools, also more car knowledge than me. I will try to report back. Thanks for the parts and the video!
I bent my very new and very beefy looking pickle fork trying to pop out the old ball joint. Ended up pulling out the rest of the control arm and hammering it off. New one went in relatively easily though and runs great! Take care not to bend the steel dust cover behind you rotor like I did... I had to screw with it for a bit to get it to quit making noise after the repair.
Starting around 4:52, when you are using that giant fork tool, I had this problem today when replacing the wheel bearings. I am not sure this is the best way to deal with this situation. The whole point of the bolt and nut just removed is to hold the U-shaped enclosure tight so the vertical pin coming off the control arm cannot come out (the pin being fatter on top precisely to make the bolt meaningful). Removing the bolt doesn't, in and of itself, widen that gap, nor does forcing it with a hammer, fork, etc. To reduce stress on the top of that pin, and the fastener you just removed the bolt from, take a wedge or chisel and force the gap to widen, then you can remove it without such specialized tools and brute force.
10:08 when installing the middle bushing screw, I found that I could not align the top and bottom holes while the screw. To install the middle screw, the control arm needs to be almost perfectly horizontal, but the stabilizing bar comes in contact with the lower control arm. I was not able to do this just with a pry bar. To raise the stabilizing bar out of the way, all you need to do is jack up the suspension coil so the stabilizing bar will raise, allowing you to finish installing the middle bushing screw.
Be careful w the bolt from the knuckle to ball joint I thought I was good to hit the bolt in through the hole like any other time I’ve done but this time I marred up the threads becuase a bit of the ball joint was showing on the inside of the hole. Had to get a new bolt & nut. Make sure the ball joint is fully seated before you put the bolt through
I am not sure how you were able to line up the bolt for the front portion of the control arm. In my installation, the bottom hole doesn’t line up with the top hole and bolt is not able to slip through. It’s almost as if the bushing is twisted.
Good job, 👍👍👍 OK if I just want to separate ball joint to remove it from knuckle without damaging the ball joint boot how it can be done only pry bar on the side or hammering besides control arm
Hi, i bought lower control arm for my Nissan juke at your site, I installed it and bring my car at the shop for wheel alignment and after that I notice that my one side of my wheel are shaking on hard braking the same side where I changed the lower control arm. I don't have those problem before and no steering wheel shaking and no brake pedal vibration. What should be the cause of shaking?
How did you finally get it to go through ? I almost stripped a bolt but thankfully it’s not to bad but it is a pain. I got it through actually but i’m not sure if the ball joint is suppose to go all the way through because every time I have the ball joint all the way through the bolt will not go in because a very tiny part of the joint seems to be stopping it from going through. I just wanna make sure I did it right or if i should readjust it.
One thing that helped me with this today was to simply tighten the bolt with an impact wrench. But I didn't think it was, or could become, tight enough to strip anything. See my comment about the purpose of the bolt. It is possible that, when you removed the part, the two sides of the U were forced out of parallel, which would cause the problem you described. Also, since it is the tightness of the U that keeps that pin in place, in principle, a thinner bolt, with a nut on other end, would do the job just as well, in a pinch.
I had the same problem, I warped a few threads on top of the bolt and had to file/rethread the warped part. Make sure you tap it all the way up, before putting bolt through. Even when I looked down the hole it looked like it wasn't perfectly circular and a nub but second time I hammered bolt through and was able to put nut on
@@1AAuto Thanks for tutorial video. Would you happen to sell that bolt that connects control arm ball joint to back of rotor? I would like to order a couple of those bolts. But, if you don't sell them, would you be able to tell me the name of bolt or part number please?
+Chris RE Thanks for checking us out! If it is making that noise it may need to be prelaoded, yes. There could also be other parts that are making this noise as well.
I watched your video to replace the lower control arms on my girlfriends 2010 nissan versa, but couldnt get torque specs, so i based it off the torque specs for car in video. What bolts/nuts need re-torqued when vehicle has all of its weight on the wheels? Would you happen to know what the torque specs are for 2010 nissan versa? I assume it couldnt be much different then torque specs for the car in this video. Thank you
+Adam Geesey We don't have a how-to video for that vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. We would recommend using the torque specifications from your owners manual or from a reputable Nissan forum.
Hello!This control arm of nissan versa looks very much like the control arm for nissan juke.I bought parts from your website for my nissan juke as my ball joints need to be replace.Just wondering do you think the process is the same?
+Breck’s World We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+deatheatergp We currently do not have an auto repair video specific to your vehicle. You might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. 1aauto.com
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
4:13 I always thought you should put the nut back on flush to hammer on it instead of the bolt to prevent thread mushrooming.
you should show the damaged in the old control arms to explain why we need to replace it.......
Just got my new control arms from 1A Auto! Hopefully this weekend I can trek to my BILs, and get his help to put them on. He's got the garage and tools, also more car knowledge than me. I will try to report back. Thanks for the parts and the video!
You made this look way too easy. Thank you
I bent my very new and very beefy looking pickle fork trying to pop out the old ball joint. Ended up pulling out the rest of the control arm and hammering it off. New one went in relatively easily though and runs great! Take care not to bend the steel dust cover behind you rotor like I did... I had to screw with it for a bit to get it to quit making noise after the repair.
Very good video with clear instructions! Definitely will need to check out 1A Auto product line.
+Kei Ho Thanks for watching. Don't hesitate to let us know if you have any questions regarding our parts! 1aauto.com
Good video, thanks. With the money you save doing it yourself get a good impact gun.
Starting around 4:52, when you are using that giant fork tool, I had this problem today when replacing the wheel bearings. I am not sure this is the best way to deal with this situation. The whole point of the bolt and nut just removed is to hold the U-shaped enclosure tight so the vertical pin coming off the control arm cannot come out (the pin being fatter on top precisely to make the bolt meaningful). Removing the bolt doesn't, in and of itself, widen that gap, nor does forcing it with a hammer, fork, etc. To reduce stress on the top of that pin, and the fastener you just removed the bolt from, take a wedge or chisel and force the gap to widen, then you can remove it without such specialized tools and brute force.
Great job guys you are a good teacher much love from Houston Texas
10:08 when installing the middle bushing screw, I found that I could not align the top and bottom holes while the screw. To install the middle screw, the control arm needs to be almost perfectly horizontal, but the stabilizing bar comes in contact with the lower control arm. I was not able to do this just with a pry bar. To raise the stabilizing bar out of the way, all you need to do is jack up the suspension coil so the stabilizing bar will raise, allowing you to finish installing the middle bushing screw.
You must put car on ground then tight the nut to specific torque
My man is tapping a brand new control arm with a metal mallet.
very clear instructions. thanks!
+Shamal Dilantha Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Well spoken and neat mechanic
+youg pup Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto
Be careful w the bolt from the knuckle to ball joint I thought I was good to hit the bolt in through the hole like any other time I’ve done but this time I marred up the threads becuase a bit of the ball joint was showing on the inside of the hole. Had to get a new bolt & nut. Make sure the ball joint is fully seated before you put the bolt through
+@scottiefc Thanks for the feedback!
Hope you used brakleen or similar solvent to clean the rotor & pads where you over sprayed rust penetrant on ball joint retaining bolt!!!!
Great video and great parts.
Great video thank you
I am not sure how you were able to line up the bolt for the front portion of the control arm. In my installation, the bottom hole doesn’t line up with the top hole and bolt is not able to slip through. It’s almost as if the bushing is twisted.
The pickle fork you used, what is the opening size ?
Does anybody know where I can get the big 18 mm screw with the nut can’t find it anywhere it won’t come off and it’s already stripped
Exactly what I need.. Thank you!!
Good job, 👍👍👍
OK if I just want to separate ball joint to remove it from knuckle without damaging the ball joint boot how it can be done only pry bar on the side or hammering besides control arm
Thank you for a video it is very nice
where can i find torque sheets
So why does my mechanic want 1 grand from me to do this?
cause they get away with it, dont let them, im in mexico and the exp3nsive shop charg3s me 400 pesos like 20 bucks each
Do you have to fill the boot with grease? Seen a video where the tie rod end boots get filled with grease
Hi, i bought lower control arm for my Nissan juke at your site, I installed it and bring my car at the shop for wheel alignment and after that I notice that my one side of my wheel are shaking on hard braking the same side where I changed the lower control arm. I don't have those problem before and no steering wheel shaking and no brake pedal vibration. What should be the cause of shaking?
If you only replaced 1, maybe some weight shifted and is affecting suspension?
This also applies to a 2012 Sedan model.
I snapped the damn bolt! I think you got your torque specs incorrect. The 21mm which goes in the back should be 111 and the front 18mm should be 75.
Getting the bolt through the ball joint where the pinch bolt is, is a pain in the. I stripped a few bolts and had to rethread them.
+Joseph Teruel Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
How did you finally get it to go through ? I almost stripped a bolt but thankfully it’s not to bad but it is a pain. I got it through actually but i’m not sure if the ball joint is suppose to go all the way through because every time I have the ball joint all the way through the bolt will not go in because a very tiny part of the joint seems to be stopping it from going through. I just wanna make sure I did it right or if i should readjust it.
One thing that helped me with this today was to simply tighten the bolt with an impact wrench. But I didn't think it was, or could become, tight enough to strip anything. See my comment about the purpose of the bolt. It is possible that, when you removed the part, the two sides of the U were forced out of parallel, which would cause the problem you described. Also, since it is the tightness of the U that keeps that pin in place, in principle, a thinner bolt, with a nut on other end, would do the job just as well, in a pinch.
I had the same problem, I warped a few threads on top of the bolt and had to file/rethread the warped part. Make sure you tap it all the way up, before putting bolt through. Even when I looked down the hole it looked like it wasn't perfectly circular and a nub but second time I hammered bolt through and was able to put nut on
Excellent thank you!
+Robo Vazquez Thank you very much!
@@1AAuto Thanks for tutorial video. Would you happen to sell that bolt that connects control arm ball joint to back of rotor? I would like to order a couple of those bolts. But, if you don't sell them, would you be able to tell me the name of bolt or part number please?
took me 2 hours and it still makes noise going over bumps, does it need to be preloaded before tightening? that's all I can think of. thanks
+Chris RE Thanks for checking us out! If it is making that noise it may need to be prelaoded, yes. There could also be other parts that are making this noise as well.
What do you mean by preloaded?
sweet.. doing it this weekend.
Load the vehicle before torquing on ground or jack
Yes those bushing can rip if torqued down at the improper ride height when the car on the road
Will these parts fit a Nissan Versa sedan 1.6?
I watched your video to replace the lower control arms on my girlfriends 2010 nissan versa, but couldnt get torque specs, so i based it off the torque specs for car in video. What bolts/nuts need re-torqued when vehicle has all of its weight on the wheels? Would you happen to know what the torque specs are for 2010 nissan versa? I assume it couldnt be much different then torque specs for the car in this video. Thank you
+Adam Geesey We don't have a how-to video for that vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. We would recommend using the torque specifications from your owners manual or from a reputable Nissan forum.
Hello!This control arm of nissan versa looks very much like the control arm for nissan juke.I bought parts from your website for my nissan juke as my ball joints need to be replace.Just wondering do you think the process is the same?
+Breck’s World We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
do you need an alignment done after this?
I need a suspension kit but the car I have is a nissan versa 2012 manual transmission 1.6 L is the same suspension as the automatic or is different
Check their site, you can put in your vehicle information and filter by for your car.
Was looking for an instructional for 14 Sentra. Will these apply similarly?
+deatheatergp We currently do not have an auto repair video specific to your vehicle. You might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. 1aauto.com
What is the cost ?
Is this replacement similar to the Nissan Sentra?
Guess they don't answer often.. I'm wondering the same. How'd you fair?
somehwat but not entirely so just use it as a general guide line and find a video for your specific vehicle .
What are the torque specs for nissan rogue 2013 control arm sway bar link and tie rof
+Asanko vlogs Thaks for checking us out! We do not have those specifications available.
111 ft lb my ass. Just snapped a bolt
all you gotta do is just.... tap it in!
The drivers side is hard