Thank you for clear, concise illustration, instruction and links to actual products that are reasonably priced (and still available at the time of viewing and this writing).
My pleasure, one thing to add, I’m putting out an update as soon as I get it edited, but instead of the coupling or reducer I suggest a stainless flare from zoellerforge.com. I ended up flaring my merchants coupling with a ball peen hammer (and an old forge burner) and got significantly better results and performance.
Overall, great video. I appreciate the end where you show the burner operating in the forge and talk about the flame quality. One thing I noticed that might also improve your (or someone else's) burner build. When tapping the 1/4 NPT thread into the tee, don't run the tap down all the way. Unlike bolts, pipe threads (NPT) are tapered so the further down you run the gap the larger the hole becomes. It's good practice to run an NPT tap in about half way (or slightly less) and test fit. Then you can run the gap in a bit further if the threaded hole is too tight. This will also prevent the 1/4" NPT fitting from screwing in as far, so the MIG tip won't extend as far into the burner body (you mentioned needing to shorten it in your update video). Thanks again!
Oh man, that bit about the pipe threads, I hadn’t even thought about the fact that they were tapered…. My fit was super loose and I think this knowledge would’ve helped a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m might remake the T aspect to fix that. Thanks again for sharing.
Great video man, finally someone show in detail the end portion of the burner when you put it inside the forge. Really appreciate your contribution. Cheers 👍
Only bad thing about a constant open air intake system is the initial lighting part, if you have this issue then just fully close your air valve then once lit just open the air choke to desired limit. 🔨🔥👍🏻
Nice job building the burner. The burner with the coupler is burning too rich because you didn't tune it. Trim the mig tip back from the throat a little at a time till it burns neutral. T burners are sensitive to breezes and back pressure so they do NOT burn the same in the forge as they do outside. That is why I never tune them outside the forge. Frosty
Great video, thanks for the link to Frosty's original plans. Surprisingly hard to get without going through the bother of joining a forum. Nothing against forums, they're a great source of information, but they can be an equally great source of distraction too, lol. Now on to the updated video!
Nice build. When you are tapping an NPT threaded hole you should only go about half way in with the tap. That is why you had a leak. Not trying to nit pick, just a tip for the future. Thanks for the video Gorilla T Bucket
Well done video. I've also done a bunch of research on these. The whole deal with the terminal hardware at the tip of the burner is that it has to gradually reduce pressure by getting larger in size, promoting the venturi effect that helps suck the air in the openings at the top of the "T". According to various sources, the best way to do this is a gradual taper from the top of the burner tube/body, just below your mig tip, down to the end. Imagine a conical shape tube descending from the T, starting at 3/4", ending at 1" or 1.25". Much larger than that is too big and makes for a poor flame. The 3/4-to-1" reducer works well because it increases the diameter of the burner body just that small amount at the end. They're also cheap and easy to replace, as long as you mount them to your forge body via slightly larger pipe 'stand-offs' that they can fit through with bolts to secure them (and don't weld them to the body of the forge.) You actually want the tip of the terminal reducer to be just inside the insulation of your forge wall inside -- preferably covered just around the rim with refractory and/or Satanite / ITC 100, so it doesn't burn up the steel. If left bare inside the chamber, it'll scale and burn it up, eventually. Making air baffles to cover the openings at the top of the T is another option that adds increased control.
Thanks for all the information, I’ve got a follow on video in the works that takes some of what you said into account. I actually take the merchants coupling and flare out one end with a ball peen hammer and after that ended up with a much better burner than with the bell reducer. This was with the help of some very kind people in the home built forges group on Facebook. I do plan on spending some Xmas money on stainless flares in the near future. If you haven’t, I’d appreciate a subscription.
@@CraftingALifeIWant hey if you don't mind could you explain a little more about flaring out the merchant coupling ? You mean just opened up the end a little bit ?
@@chrissilliker8633 yes, I used a ball peen hammer larger than the opening and work one end of the merchants coupling into a flare. With the ball peen this served to flatten the threads a bit as well as increase the diameter. More of the threads were filed smooth to reduce turbulence. In hindsight, I’d have bought a stainless flare from Larry Zoeller.
I am having problems finding the right flange. I guess I'll have to take calipers to the shop and measure myself. I need a 5mm hole to tap M6, as those were the largest mig tips i found
@@jomorken4853 hmm that’s a tougher one to get through. My initial thought would be to fill the hole with weld and then drill and tap to necessary size. My other thought would be to get a brass rod, give its outside threads that fit into the union then drill and tap it. Basically make a bushing.
You mean where the brass fitting connects to the black T? No one has mentioned that before, can you help me understand why going deep with a tap is a bad idea?
@@CraftingALifeIWant, since pipe taps are tapered, if you go to deep the pipe fitting going into the threads will end up going to deep without sealing. You probably noticed how deep the fitting went into the threads and it didn't look like it sealed. The fitting should only go about 2/3 of the thread length into the tapped hole in order to seal properly. That fitting depth is determined by how deep the NPT tap is threaded. We have to use an NPT gauge when we tap them, but we're a machine shop. I realize most folks don't have a gauge and really don't need one. I hope that helps. Your burner works outstanding though!
@@wireedm1 that is super helpful and I wasn’t aware but definitely had problems with that pipe sealing up well. Thought it was because my drill bit wandered when drilling the hole, which might have had an impact as well, but your explanation really helps me understand better what happened. I’m planning another burner build and really appreciate comments like these and the input from the community.
@@CraftingALifeIWant, glad to help. I hesitated to say anything, just trying to be helpful... I just saw this video from Flex Arm as an example: ua-cam.com/video/LG_ToXWJYkc/v-deo.html
I used the alternative method w/black pipe mostly cuz I'm a cheap slug. Same resuls, less expensive and everything from a local hardware store. Have to admit though, yours is prettier. 👍🍻
Yeah I hear you, though I’ve had good luck with buying one offs from supply house and their shipping doesn’t kill me. I think total cost for this was (several years ago) around $20.
Similar to when you restrict a hose and the result is a jet of water, the nozzle restricts the gas flow making it function like a jet, the force of the jet shooting down the tube pulls the air in through the holes which mixes with the gas before the ignition point at the burner flare.
Like there aren't already a million UA-cam videos showing how to construct a simple gas burner in the exact same way you did, could you not have linked to one of those?
Built it and it works amazing until I put it in the forge. At that point it will not hold a flame. The flame just falls off the end and flutters around.
Check out my update video linked at the end of the one or in the description, but I’d try choking the air supply to hold a flame until the forge comes up on temperature.
I have made this exactly the way it should be made and mine will not stay lit many floaters brand new tank everything is brand new it's driving me nuts I don't know what to do any suggestions
Did you watch my update video linked in the comments? If not, I’d start there. If the floaters are what I think they are, you might not have a good seal around your mid tip. I had this initially and swapped out a liquid pipe sealant for a thread tape and it helped that issue. If none of this is correct, you can send me a video at crafting.a.life.I.want@gmail.com of how your flame is working and I can try to diagnose it better. Also the Facebook group, home built forges, has tons of helpful people.
If you watch my update video, I talk about the need to choke it on startup. Once the forge is allowed to heat up, it doesn’t need to be choked, but depending on your need (if you want a reduced oxygen environment to reduce scale build up) you might need them.
@@CraftingALifeIWant The one l made was basically the same but l welddd it up with stainless, it's just great the temperatures it heats solid 40mil bar in no time, has a 1mm mig tip normally only needs be about 2bar, 4bar and it's something else.
That’s very cool, welding stainless is outside my current capabilities. I’m hoping to improve the quality of my forge sometime this year to something better than hard fire bricks.
I provided links to the most affordable place I could find, most big box stores aren’t going to carry most of these parts. Are the links in the description not working?
Thank you for clear, concise illustration, instruction and links to actual products that are reasonably priced (and still available at the time of viewing and this writing).
My pleasure, one thing to add, I’m putting out an update as soon as I get it edited, but instead of the coupling or reducer I suggest a stainless flare from zoellerforge.com. I ended up flaring my merchants coupling with a ball peen hammer (and an old forge burner) and got significantly better results and performance.
Overall, great video. I appreciate the end where you show the burner operating in the forge and talk about the flame quality. One thing I noticed that might also improve your (or someone else's) burner build. When tapping the 1/4 NPT thread into the tee, don't run the tap down all the way. Unlike bolts, pipe threads (NPT) are tapered so the further down you run the gap the larger the hole becomes. It's good practice to run an NPT tap in about half way (or slightly less) and test fit. Then you can run the gap in a bit further if the threaded hole is too tight. This will also prevent the 1/4" NPT fitting from screwing in as far, so the MIG tip won't extend as far into the burner body (you mentioned needing to shorten it in your update video). Thanks again!
Oh man, that bit about the pipe threads, I hadn’t even thought about the fact that they were tapered…. My fit was super loose and I think this knowledge would’ve helped a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m might remake the T aspect to fix that. Thanks again for sharing.
@@CraftingALifeIWant No problem, glad I could help.
Great video man, finally someone show in detail the end portion of the burner when you put it inside the forge. Really appreciate your contribution. Cheers 👍
My pleasure, glad it was helpful.
Only bad thing about a constant open air intake system is the initial lighting part, if you have this issue then just fully close your air valve then once lit just open the air choke to desired limit. 🔨🔥👍🏻
Great suggestion, thanks!
These are all gas fittings that we can find; thanks for the easy and straight forward assembly!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
Nice job building the burner. The burner with the coupler is burning too rich because you didn't tune it. Trim the mig tip back from the throat a little at a time till it burns neutral. T burners are sensitive to breezes and back pressure so they do NOT burn the same in the forge as they do outside. That is why I never tune them outside the forge. Frosty
Thanks Frosty, I’ll keep working on it. I appreciate the feedback.
Great video, thanks for the link to Frosty's original plans. Surprisingly hard to get without going through the bother of joining a forum. Nothing against forums, they're a great source of information, but they can be an equally great source of distraction too, lol. Now on to the updated video!
Lol agreed. I usually hope for the links in UA-cam which is often my first choice. Thanks for the watch.
Great video man! You put this video together nicely. I left you a link on your facebook post to some additional burner options.
Thanks! I’ll go find the comment on Facebook. If you don’t mind, would love it if you’d sub my channel.
Nice build.
When you are tapping an NPT threaded hole you should only go about half way in with the tap.
That is why you had a leak.
Not trying to nit pick, just a tip for the future.
Thanks for the video
Gorilla T Bucket
Well done video. I've also done a bunch of research on these. The whole deal with the terminal hardware at the tip of the burner is that it has to gradually reduce pressure by getting larger in size, promoting the venturi effect that helps suck the air in the openings at the top of the "T". According to various sources, the best way to do this is a gradual taper from the top of the burner tube/body, just below your mig tip, down to the end. Imagine a conical shape tube descending from the T, starting at 3/4", ending at 1" or 1.25". Much larger than that is too big and makes for a poor flame. The 3/4-to-1" reducer works well because it increases the diameter of the burner body just that small amount at the end. They're also cheap and easy to replace, as long as you mount them to your forge body via slightly larger pipe 'stand-offs' that they can fit through with bolts to secure them (and don't weld them to the body of the forge.) You actually want the tip of the terminal reducer to be just inside the insulation of your forge wall inside -- preferably covered just around the rim with refractory and/or Satanite / ITC 100, so it doesn't burn up the steel. If left bare inside the chamber, it'll scale and burn it up, eventually. Making air baffles to cover the openings at the top of the T is another option that adds increased control.
Thanks for all the information, I’ve got a follow on video in the works that takes some of what you said into account. I actually take the merchants coupling and flare out one end with a ball peen hammer and after that ended up with a much better burner than with the bell reducer. This was with the help of some very kind people in the home built forges group on Facebook. I do plan on spending some Xmas money on stainless flares in the near future. If you haven’t, I’d appreciate a subscription.
@@CraftingALifeIWant hey if you don't mind could you explain a little more about flaring out the merchant coupling ? You mean just opened up the end a little bit ?
@@chrissilliker8633 yes, I used a ball peen hammer larger than the opening and work one end of the merchants coupling into a flare. With the ball peen this served to flatten the threads a bit as well as increase the diameter. More of the threads were filed smooth to reduce turbulence. In hindsight, I’d have bought a stainless flare from Larry Zoeller.
I am having problems finding the right flange. I guess I'll have to take calipers to the shop and measure myself. I need a 5mm hole to tap M6, as those were the largest mig tips i found
When you say flare, you mean the mig tip?
@@CraftingALifeIWant No the thing the mig tip is connected to
@@jomorken4853 hmm that’s a tougher one to get through. My initial thought would be to fill the hole with weld and then drill and tap to necessary size. My other thought would be to get a brass rod, give its outside threads that fit into the union then drill and tap it. Basically make a bushing.
Great demo, thanks for posting. Has someone mentioned that you went WAY too deep on your 1/8" pipe tap?
You mean where the brass fitting connects to the black T? No one has mentioned that before, can you help me understand why going deep with a tap is a bad idea?
@@CraftingALifeIWant, since pipe taps are tapered, if you go to deep the pipe fitting going into the threads will end up going to deep without sealing. You probably noticed how deep the fitting went into the threads and it didn't look like it sealed. The fitting should only go about 2/3 of the thread length into the tapped hole in order to seal properly. That fitting depth is determined by how deep the NPT tap is threaded. We have to use an NPT gauge when we tap them, but we're a machine shop. I realize most folks don't have a gauge and really don't need one.
I hope that helps. Your burner works outstanding though!
@@wireedm1 that is super helpful and I wasn’t aware but definitely had problems with that pipe sealing up well. Thought it was because my drill bit wandered when drilling the hole, which might have had an impact as well, but your explanation really helps me understand better what happened. I’m planning another burner build and really appreciate comments like these and the input from the community.
@@CraftingALifeIWant, glad to help. I hesitated to say anything, just trying to be helpful...
I just saw this video from Flex Arm as an example: ua-cam.com/video/LG_ToXWJYkc/v-deo.html
I believe that would be an inspirator
Thanks Drock, you might be right, my words were chosen from Frosty’s directions rather than previous knowledge.
Thank you so much for your help
My pleasure. Make sure you check out the update video as well. I made some mistakes in this one and corrected them in my follow up.
I used the alternative method w/black pipe mostly cuz I'm a cheap slug. Same resuls, less expensive and everything from a local hardware store. Have to admit though, yours is prettier. 👍🍻
Yeah I hear you, though I’ve had good luck with buying one offs from supply house and their shipping doesn’t kill me. I think total cost for this was (several years ago) around $20.
HI
I didn't see the post under mine.
No worries. Still a helpful bit of info. :)
Good job Brother 👍🏼
Thank you!
How the gas doesn’t leak from the two opening on the side ? Won’t the sides also ignite ?
Similar to when you restrict a hose and the result is a jet of water, the nozzle restricts the gas flow making it function like a jet, the force of the jet shooting down the tube pulls the air in through the holes which mixes with the gas before the ignition point at the burner flare.
Look up Venturi effect. Deals with pressure changes around restricted fluids.
Like there aren't already a million UA-cam videos showing how to construct a simple gas burner in the exact same way you did, could you not have linked to one of those?
I could’ve, but what’s the fun in that? Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@CraftingALifeIWant great video.. thanks. One clarification, did you use black iron pipe or galvanized pipe?
@@SS-pi2yi black iron. Heating galvanized will release toxins.
@@CraftingALifeIWant is it as simple as..if the pipe is grey silver then it is galvanized pipe and if black , then it's black iron?
@@SS-pi2yi generally speaking yes. I imagine there has been someone that has painted galvanized pipe black, so use all found pipe at your own risk.
Thanks for information
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Mig tip leaked because the correct size is 6mm , great vidio bud
Thanks for the comment, you mean the correct tap size is 6mm?
FIRE! awesome
What is the inner diametre of the quarter inch flare? in mm plz
Thanks bro!!
My pleasure, be sure to check out the update video as well. Some better information in there.
Built it and it works amazing until I put it in the forge. At that point it will not hold a flame. The flame just falls off the end and flutters around.
Check out my update video linked at the end of the one or in the description, but I’d try choking the air supply to hold a flame until the forge comes up on temperature.
How far is the mig tip in the middle
The tip of the mig tip should be roughly in the middle of the open ends of the T. I had to grind mine down almost a 1/4” to get it there.
I have made this exactly the way it should be made and mine will not stay lit many floaters brand new tank everything is brand new it's driving me nuts I don't know what to do any suggestions
Did you watch my update video linked in the comments? If not, I’d start there. If the floaters are what I think they are, you might not have a good seal around your mid tip. I had this initially and swapped out a liquid pipe sealant for a thread tape and it helped that issue. If none of this is correct, you can send me a video at crafting.a.life.I.want@gmail.com of how your flame is working and I can try to diagnose it better. Also the Facebook group, home built forges, has tons of helpful people.
@@CraftingALifeIWant I sent you a video
I’ll try to take a look at it today. It’s not supported on my phone so I’ll try on my computer when I get some time.
ua-cam.com/video/qFNutVSQzuo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=RalphLindstrom
@@ralphlindstrom612 - sent you an email. Thanks for the upload.
A good burner, don't it need chokes on the T fitting?
If you watch my update video, I talk about the need to choke it on startup. Once the forge is allowed to heat up, it doesn’t need to be choked, but depending on your need (if you want a reduced oxygen environment to reduce scale build up) you might need them.
@@CraftingALifeIWant The one l made was basically the same but l welddd it up with stainless, it's just great the temperatures it heats solid 40mil bar in no time, has a 1mm mig tip normally only needs be about 2bar, 4bar and it's something else.
That’s very cool, welding stainless is outside my current capabilities. I’m hoping to improve the quality of my forge sometime this year to something better than hard fire bricks.
TURBO 4000C BURNER
Süper 👍
Thanks sir. Much appreciated. :)
Straight forward my ass!!!!! I can’t find the parts anywhere in North Texas. Sad face
I provided links to the most affordable place I could find, most big box stores aren’t going to carry most of these parts. Are the links in the description not working?
جيد
HI
4000 C