Making a Propane Burner even Hotter
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2017
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Previously, I build an easy to make, simple propane burner. It worked, but not great. Today, i'm making it great. Not only do I modify it a bit so i can adjust the air/fuel ratio, but i do something stupid and duck tape a hair dryer to it. Why? because more fire. That's why.
Turns out when you need more air, you can force it down the burner's throat. Who knew. Forced air propane burners are officially awesome. Also scary. But awesome.
The biggest improvement is capping off the back, and making some kind of sleeve to adjust the air hole openings.
Want my advice? I assume you do, since nobody except truly dedicated viewers ever read this far into the comments. My advice is don't do forced air propane burners. Stick with the normal kind. Forced air is just lots of over complication for what I assume isn't an appreciably hotter flame. I love rube goldberg devices as much as the next guy, but the thing is powered by gas. You don't want to plug the thing in, too.
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You need what is called a flame screen just before the outlet.
Your deadpan humor never gets old. Keep that quality content coming!
+noctem9 you got it!
My wife needs to see this. Finally, proof that overcomplicating something (an under appreciated talent) can be a good thing. "Awesomer".
You can put a stainless steel mesh at the end to keep the flame from going inside the tube but that might limit gas velocity
I agree, your humor is right on target. I like how you bounce your ideas off the camera, aka the viewers.
You are a seriously funny man. Only watched about 5 of your videos but I'll watch more. I don't know what your stressful day job is but I'm glad you can overcome ! Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
I loved this!!! You're terribly funny. I loved the slight self deprecation being outweighed by the confident optimism in your next great idea💡!!!
THANK YOU!!!
You made my day!!! 😁
I also love reinventing the wheel. Good job.
LOL, Paul I love the fact that your videos are all about discovery. You aren't teaching you are discovering with your viewers.
Thanks! The best way to figure out how something works is to dive in and try it! Sometimes you figure it out, sometimes you get huge blue flames. Win-win.
I did a similar thing with an air matress inflator to push the temperature high enough to melt copper and brass. My flare was a 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch adapter like yours, however I used a 2 1/2 inch car exhaust coupler with slits cut in one end, hammered in a little to meet the 2 inch black iron adapter, and tack welded on. Makes a great flame holder. Pulls a little extra air in through the slits. It glows red hot when operating.
HAHA! Love that you seem to approach these DIY projects a lot like I do. Also love that you're not afraid to share your failures as you iterate toward perfection. Fun stuff to watch!!
+Jonathan Bechtold if I hid the failures I wouldn't have much of a video left! Everybody has failures. Some people edit them out so they appear to know what they are doing. I think failures are fun to watch, so I leave them in.
I know right I did the exact same thing angling the holes with my drill but when I built my first screw up
At first, I was like "who is this fool!" Now I love your sense of humor and enjoy watching. Your like me using videos to make stuff, new subscriber!
good demonstration thanks for sharing such basics for floor level operators
thanks
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful
I am building a double one and you did just what I needed to see. Thnaks
love your conversation and dead pan it makes your videos better, your comments are very good. Just love it. keep doing what you do. Thanks.
+Chuck Simeonides thanks! Glad you enjoyed :D
A simple 90 degree bend just after your air intake helps the cas and air mix much better, it will also cause the gas and air to roll. Take a look at how some of the more experienced smiths set up air forced forges and you will see they all have a 90 degree bend on the burners.
Really love the tone of your videos, you earned a new sub! Keep it up!
+ChaosPotato Thanks! Glad you like them :D
You're awesome man keep it up love the channel!
Thank you!
You Rock!! I love what I have watched of your channel. Keep up the good work man. Its great stuff
+The Off Grid Family thank you, good sir!
definitely subbing. quality content with eggselent humor.
At a bronze casting foundry we made drilled 1/4" black pipe "shapes" with 2 feeder pipes that were attached to adjustable natural gas and compressed air sources. Each drilled hole became an individual touch and the "shape" corresponded to the shape of the casting mold we wanted to pre heat.
venturiized, love it
Great vid mate love the humour
I learn something in this video. Thanks.
Love your channel Paul, this vid made me laugh a lot! “It’s back in the pipe again...
I built mine off a design I found online.. No holes in the tube, but I have a flapper on the back, along with a quick gate valve on the propane I can dial it in at any temp. Cheers. Love your humor! Subbed!
Thanks! Glad you enjoy the vids :)
Found your channel yesterday just subscribed. You are quite funny and i feel i am learning a lot from your mistakes with some good laughs along the way.
Keep up the good work :)
Thanks! glad you enjoyed :D
I love the chimp and the mushroom cloud.
I was like number 2.3🤣too cool 😎. Great vid!
First time watcher. You crack me up! Thanks.
Thanks! Glad you like the humor
Pretty cool bro
Paul - Thank you. This was an issue I was currently having with my design and you helped me figure out how to alter it to make it work properly. It's a bit of a different design that uses a welding tip as a propane nozzle (so it could technically be changed out if I needed to alter the AF ratio). The only major downside is that it lacks a cut off valve at the torch, but it has an adjustable regulator with a flow gauge at the tank (and the hose is only 4' so I'm right next to it regardless)
glad i could help! 4' is a pretty short hose, i'd want a longer one. The shutoff valve being so close like mine isn't a great idea, the heat could potentially screw it up. So far mine is fine, but that doens't mean it will be fine forever.
hey man don't be so hard on yourself you did a good job and you are man enough to correct your own mistakes that's good stuff keep up the good work
it lit
*AIRHORNS*
seriosly your vids are great i like how you hurry things along ang get to the point but also ramble endlesly at the same time
Thanks! glad you enjoyed
Your channel is awesome.
+Justin Herman thanks!
I have been slack and I have just gotten around to watching this. Great content, well explained and executed. Good stuff.
+Home Built By Jeff thanks! Same to you! I actually got into the foundry stuff hoping to cast some replica/custom car parts, like knobs and handles that are cast, and some engine parts (assuming I can get machining them figured out). The car projects don't start until the toy jeep is done though. Wish I had something like a 911 to work on!
Casting is something I haven't played with at all yet, but maybe in the future it could be worth playing with. One of those torches could come in handy on car projects though. I have often needed to heat something up (like with dent removal) and I don't have an Oxy-Acetelene torch. That could do the trick.
+Home Built By Jeff yeah the propane burner is super handy, I can heat treat stuff, cast stuff, temper/anneal stuff. Propane has a much cooler flame than oxy-acetylene but the flame in mine tends to be much larger, so lower temps but higher heat affected zone. Also my burner will not melt steel no matter what I do, so it's less likely to accidentally burn a hole in something. As a bonus a propane tank is less likely to blow my garage up. Acetylene scares the crap out of me.
Being a firefighter, Acetylene scares the crap out of me too ;)
This man is a genius. Too bad Mary Jane found him first 😂 I’m just messin bro 🙌🏽
Comedy in forging! Who knew!!!
PAUL
You are absolutely brilliant and funny, just been watching your video, O man I nearly pissed my pants.
Please don't stop making the video's really enjoyed watching them and I have learned some valuable lessons.
Thanks Paul
Best regards Dave
Thanks! glad you liked the video
great video
+Taite Lennox thanks!
Gas/air best to mix at the nozzle. Try drilling the holes on that bell reducer and orient the location and angle of the holes to come in with a spiraling action. I’m going to work on mine soon.
Forced air is the classic way to get more heat and every blast furnace is proof it works.
thankyou for making this video i just got an old kiln that i swapped over to propane instead of electric and could not get it hot enough to melt copper. i watched the vid made a few adjustments in my set up and boom!!!!!!!!!!!!! now its a forced air unit lol
Awesome! You really can't beat forced air. It's a game changer
Dont light it at the holes! U need to light it at the end where the cone u installed causes a low pressure zone. That's the purpose of the adapter u put on the end
Ya man, what he said
Also the holes aren't really needed, it will draw air from the back of the tube
Oh good I’m not the only one 😂
I like that your showing your trouble shooting and not just the "glory shots".
If i didn't show the trouble shooting this video would be a short!
I have heard that inserting a cup shaped piece of fine mesh, the same diameter as the inside diameter of the burner tube, into the end of the burner tube, just before the bell end of the burner will prevent the flame from travelling back down the burner tube. Of course you will need to ignite the burner at the hot end for this to work. If several pieces of mesh are used, the propane / air mix will be evened out and a more effective burn will be achieved. The principle is the same as was used for mesh covered miner's lamps in coal mines around the turn of the century (and probably before that.) As I said, I have never tried this but it sounds like it would work.
mesh covered miners lamp is called davy lamp. sir Humphry Davy discovered sodium, calcium, magnesium, strontium and barium.
Love it!!
When it melts the wrench sockets on your wall, I would call that well tuned
Not sure what exactly I learned but it sure as hell looked cool
+ThatOnePineapple I learned I can make insane amounts of fire, that's valuable information right?
Subbed. Saw your video in my recommended since I am subbed to other forge UA-camrs.
Thanks! glad you enjoyed
This mans sarcasm is lethal
You are hilarious. I’m not sure why I watch your channel? You’re one video away from winning a Darwin Award!
I hope and don’t hope simultaneously to win that prestigious award
Paul, I'm kind of dealing with the same issue. I also drilled the holes in the tube to try to see if it helped and then realized that the holes would be blocked by the refractory after I stuck it into the forge. I am going to try a longer tube and maybe a larger jet. (I'm using a .025 mig tip) I am subscribed now and will begin sharing my progress on You Tube as well. Keep making these videos. I love your format and videos like yours keeps me motivated to keep pushing forward with my project. Thanks!
Oh I'm definitely building this version. The Awesomer Propane Torch (patent pending)...lol
Ok. So I've got a burner I've made. Similar design, but no holes. (Venturi style) I was having so many issues melting copper.. it just wouldn't do it. Then I found this video.. I went and took the hair dryer off my charcoal furnace and ta'dad it to my burner. I always hated how loud it was then suddenly it was quiet and my copper... well it's molten! Wooo! Great channel and great advice. Thank you. Keep it up
Glad I could help!
very smart
Enjoyed your talking and trying to burn the house down!, Thinking right along with you, Time to melt! Just waiting on you lol
+andy wilson I wasn't trying that hard to burn the house down, nothing even started smoking! I think. I didn't check.
lol
still loving this guy!!!
+Stewart Bremner thank you! Glad you are enjoying!
On mine, I added a plenum with a caged fan to push the fuel and air out the front of both burners with some serious force (a lot more force than a hair dryer can supply).
Even so I get the same thing out of the air suction holes happens, and I just place my finger over the hole and POOF, the air being forced in pushes everything with force and the flame shoots out the front.
The issue is some of the mixture is back flowing out the holes, if you stop that it will have to shoot out the front and forcing the air (with enough force) through the pipe is the best solution.
Drill your primary holes around the circumference of the pipe on the angle as you did on a line just forward of the nozzle outlet. The three holes in a line disrupt air and gas flow, the air should ender the combustion chamber from the same position around the circumference of the inside diameter slightly forward of the jet (orifice)
If you want the best heat/flame the propane nozzle closest to torch tip, Pressurized regulation just behind the propane nozzle and neutral adjustable airports behind pressurized airport.
Maybe this has already been said but I think if you have the holes in the side of the pipe you would want to plug the hole at the end of the pipe. It's letting air mix with fuel right at the point where the gas is coming out. You want the air coming in after the gas, your set-up has air coming in before the gas as long as the end of the pipe is open.
Chalk 101, with Paul / Ruffles.
Next, How not to videogames 101 with Mr. Cody and Basics of Glamour, with Mr. Ruby.
First off, I love your subtitles.
Secundus: I have already decided that, when I do make my forge/kiln, I will just do the simple expedient of getting a multiple Propane Manifold, 4 hoses, and the el cheapo Propane Torches, burning 1-4 as needed.
thanks! and 4 propane torches sounds pretty intense! I've only ever used 1 and it's plenty
@@PaulsGarage I'd only have the 4 AVAILABLE, they don't need to all be used every time.
So that was something I watched today.
I think we will be reading this guys obituary.
Do you remember the Bunsen burners in high school? Those screens served a purpose; to block the flame from coming back to the burner. If you place a fitted screen in the end of the burner the flame will stay out.
“By which I mean permanent” every project I do
This is the way 🤣
So i just lit my forge for the 2nd time today, and am having issues with heat traveling up the burner. NOT OK. so this video is helpful, and probably will be again. I may return with QUESTIONS! haha, thanks!
Using a refractroy fibre behind a screen just after the air gas but before the flame, this can act as a flame arrestor to disallow your flame from going backwards into the air mix chamber.
its the speed of the fuel air mixture.. thats why industrial burners have diffuses.. they dont do it for the cool swirling effect, the flame is always trying to burn back to the nozzle you need the speed to feed more air and fuel into the flame before the flame can outrun the source. the "normal" versions of these types of burners are mechanically tuned the jet of fuel from the orifice creates a vacuum and the cone shaped intake (reducer coupling) facilitates the correct air volume, changing the flow rate through the orifice changing the vacuum and the air volume giving you a mechanically tuned dynamic mixture based on the supply pressure. the flared burner end (reducer coupling) causes the the mixture to slow down and burn in a controlled manor.
"Why does it keep doing that." There was no question mark at the end of that sentence.
You're clearly an intelligent individual. Who, perhaps more clearly, has a lot more theories than answers. Simply put, "I read about propane once, and I have no idea what the hell's going on. But I'm gonna just keep doing shit until it works"
I watch your videos because they are so similar to how I figured these things out (exceedingly low budget and nearly no experience with common tools in a regular setting) , and occasionally I derive ideas from your attempts. Like me, you seem to have an attempt to success ratio that is far out balanced. Combined with the incredibly drab rambling, I really enjoy watching your shit.
I love it.
We're friends now. You understand.
yep, sounds like we're friends. Crazy people have to stick together!
Nice
love the video. I assume that your next video might be you making that new and improved furnace if you do.I suggest that instead of using to refract cement you use instead kaowool.
+Toadsage23 I'm holding off building the furnace until I can get some materials. I'll probably use a mix of refractory stuff and kaowool as insulation, just kaowool doesn't last with a torch against it unless it's coated in something like satanite (an awesome name for a coating, btw).
Make sure you thoroughly dry the refractory cement to prevent cracks or blowouts.
Intake for air at top, .023 mig orfice tip in the middle of the top intake, 12" of tube without stupid holes, done. The bell end is not to be put on when burner its screwed into the forge. The bell end is for testing on the bench. It will burn much better with back pressure installed in the forge
I am waiting until i see it work then ill build it
Last video I commented that that looks A LOT like a Bunsen Burner... well, now it's even more like a Bunsen Burner.
But yeah... over-complicate it to be awesomer... it's the only way to go!
What is missing is a mesh at the end of the nozzle. That prevents the flame moving back into the tube.
I made Grant's version and i think that works too :D But your's are much much simple keep doing these videos pls, i love to watch them
+Pepe Lazy yeah I looked at what it would take to make his, but it was pretty expensive. It was much cooler looking than the one I made though lol
I bougt Grant's version for like 35$ but yes your version is like 10$ or saw :D
i have buildt a propane burner but i have used a vacuum as a force in pushing the butane and flame then with a stop cock to regulate the ration of gas and air wich in my opinion is much safer so you dont get any back flash
One easy trick get a stainless steel scrubby ball then push it in the pipe near burner end. It will work like a back arresting setup forces the flames out past it holding it on one side of it.
Hey, the reason your burner wasn't running right is because you have far too low pressure and made a screwy design. It could still work, but this type of burner doesn't run off a BBQ regulator. I didn't see what the reg you were using was, but based on sound it sounded like a bbq reg, or at least under a psi or two and possibly a much too large propane orifice.
These types of burners usually run 20psi+ with a .023" or 0.030" orifice. The reason it kept sucking back into the tube is you simply don't have enough velocity to push the propane out the end and suck air in the ass end.
no it was a 0-60 psi reg
make a tiny version of the hair drier combo to make an alternative to oxy/acetylene torch
I added an air regulator from a paint gun and fed forced air from a compressor and can fine tune my air fuel ration
man I love watching this stuff. As an amateur blacksmith, this is awesome to me, I can convert that foundry design into a forge and use that torch monstrosity. plus your videos are funny as hell. what's with the suit btw?
Thanks! The suit is just my jacket, and tweed jackets are the only ones i have that are fire retardant (wool is a great fire retardant). My work jacket that gets all filthy and stuff is all polyester and it would melt itself to my skin forever in the presence of giant flames of doom. I don't mind my job, but i don't want to wear the outfit for the rest of my life :D
awesomer, I mean awesome video. 😎
+Carl Peters thanks! :D
Ive seen guys run the hair dryer. It looked good to me.. even if you keep propane low the hair dryer should still make more heat?
Funny how you actually look like one of my TA's from a Davis coffee class....
The jacket gives you legitimacy.
Dress for success!
You can run a forced air propane burner at lower propane pressure. This will help keep your propane tank from freezing up.
Hey Paul I like your videos the best u make it real n funny lol um can u tell me how you build that burner
I had another video on building the burner, but really i'd suggest building a "ron reil" burner instead. This one has proven to be tricky to use, though i've figured it out since i made this video.
u should try to put ur just at the end of a 1" black pipe in the center of a 1.5 to 1 reducer and make an small flat threaded washer to adjust air flow like Alec Steele does with his burners
+Daryl Gardiner that's more like a reil burner, this is an Oliver upwind burner so it's a totally different design. The reil burner is probably better though.
you might be right I don't really know but I know I'm gonna try to build one for a forge and a smelter
Next to a child's chalkboard
Did you do a temp check.
Gimme your lunch money
If you start the combustion inside of the tube, the combustion is going to remain in the tube, also the mixing tube is too short. Are you using an adjustable regulator on your propane supply?
Thx helped
Bro wtf did I just watch. I'm bromancing rn
I have a torch that was having the same problem, flames going back down the pipe and creating a terrible racket and very little heat. I solved it by increasing the length of the pipe. For me the problem was that the air and propane was not being mixed sufficiently and backfiring down the tube a dozen times a second. I went form a 6" pipe to a 12" pipe and the mixture coming out the end was then sufficiently mixed and the flare at the end stops the flame from traveling backwards due to the low pressure zone it creates. A well mixed flame produced a sufficient sucking power that you wont need any forced air to push the propane down the tube.
+Andrew K is that the "popping" noise I hear some burners making? I always wondered what caused that.
It might be completely inconsequential, but my first thought was that the jet of fuel wasn't pointing directly towards the end nozzle.
that does happen, but mine is pointed straight. when it burns back into the pipe, i can see the flame through the holes and i pointed it straight down the center of the hole. Another trick is to use a hose and pump water into the fuel pipe, and see where the stream comes out of the hole.