I tend to buy tubeless rims whenever possible to avoid having to remove the wheel on the trail to patch a pinhole...but seriously, great video, the more we do it the easier it gets!
I can't speak from experience - only had a flat in the front which is easier - but I've seen videos showing options for keeping the bead in the drop center, including the motion pro bead buddy, blocks of wood or a vise. They all seem to help.
I'm glad I took the time to try it out in the comfort of the home shop! I need to find a little container for some tire lubricant to keep on the bike. The little tire irons are by no means as easy as the large ones on the tire changer, but they weren't as bad as I was fearing, and I'll only have to take one bead off on the trail :)
I made little spacers with 1/2" pvc tubing, cut 2" pieces then cut a slot along side the pieces then with a heat gun shape them like little rectangles, I then shoved them against the bead and the tire stays within the drop center. Without somekind of spacer it is very stressful but with spacers it is very fast and very easy. I made 6 of them and tied small pieces of thin rope on them to make it easy to pull them out once the tire is mounted.
Great vid, great work !...I've had the 2009 XT660Z Tenere for 9 years and live in the mountains of Portugal and changed 14 rears..I've ground off the notoriously difficult 'safety bead' from the rear rim (a tip that's not for everyone and your front doesn't have one anyway which is a far harder 'flat' to control at speed). It make bead breaking with the Motion Pro's much, much easier. I also carry a very small Vaseline pot and smear the tyre beads and rim for removal and refit...The tyre re-seats much faster and the Vas dries out so no 'tyre -creep'.....Also, I take the tyre's beads off their own sides. Standing upright, the wheel will then fall into the tyre leaving a huge gap at the top. You can then pull the wheel straight out...with a little persuasion !
Nice video. I've had good luck using the large zip-tie technique to keep the tire pinched together, which makes it easy to keep it more centered in the wheel well, which then makes spooning the tire back on relatively easy. Also, my secret is lots and lots of Windex!
Thank you :) I've heard of the zip-tie technique but never tried it. I have the nomar tire paste mixed with water in a sprayer for tire lube. It works well and I think the tub of paste will last me a very long time.
It was refreshing to see a tire changing video where the job is a struggle as opposed to the many usually promotional videos where tires seemingly made of soft butter are spooned on with the greatest of ease. Changing tires is a PITA, even in one's garage with all the tools. A major difference in technique when completely removing the tire - simply lever each side of the tire over it's side of the wheel. Once both sides of the tire are off, the wheel will drop into the tire giving enough space that you can pull it out at an angle. Assemble this way in reverse. Another thing I do is put the new tire out in the sun and let it bake, this softens the tire. If that is not an option, put a hair dryer in the tire and let hot air run round and round inside it for awhile. The Baja No Pinch tire tool in combo with a Bead Buddy is nice for putting tires back on, especially in a "rustic" environment away from your shop. I have a Rabaconda tire changer, it wasn't cheap and isn't strictly necessary, but it is a back saver for sure. Do pay attention to the weight dot on the sidewall of the tire, this is where the belts overlap in the carcass and it is the heaviest part of the tire. Put the dot opposite the valve stem for the best wheel balance without actually balancing them. I have a $50 Harbor Freight static balancer and it works great. Installed rim locks on my Husky 701's wheels and balanced for them. The rim locks will let you run lower pressures without tearing a valve stem, and they can help you slowly ride out of an area if you get a flat to a better spot to work on the bike if you need to. I used spoke weights for the balancing, tested to velocities I won't mention, smooth as can be 😆
Thanks for your comment! I haven't tried the opposite sides thing, I'll have to give that a shot some time. I also have a raboconda tire changer that I usually use and it is way easier than the trail tools :) The AX41s don't have a balancing mark, unfortunately. I use a Marc Parnes balancer that I hang between jack stands for balancing. What spoke weights do you use? I have been using stick-on weights for the rear and re-using old spoke weights for the front.
Well done. I saw a guy when removing & re-installing the rear tire use a tie strap to support the wheel assembly in place of using your feet. The tie strap was over the seat and hanging down both sides. It was then place between the spokes. Then adusted the strap to support the wheel by the rim. Not the spokes. Then remove the axle,... and loosen the tie strap. To install the wheel reverse the process. This eliminates any rushed feeling as the wheel can be easily lifted and held in place to install the axle.
I converted the rear of my 2013 Triumph Tiger 800 XC to tubeless years ago. Best decision I ever made. You don't want to be in the middle of nowhere (I'm a solo rider), trying to repair/replace a tube, by having to remove the rear wheel from the frame. I'm shopping for my next ADV bike and having tubeless on the front and rear is a must. You're doing this in a controlled environment which is nowhere close to the conditions you'd find out in the wild.
That’s awesome! It’s really liberating to be able to be self reliant when it comes to bike maintenance. Don’t forget to balance the tires. I have a simple static balance setup.
Thanks for posting a lot of good tips your tool kit is worth taking note couple of tips I've picked up watching vids is carry a garbage bag in your kit to lie on the ground to keep dirt out of the hubs and a really good idea from that Aussie adventure rider airemann1 Carry a ratchet strap and strap either the front or back of your bike to a tree to keep the wheel of the ground again not my ideas but we'll worth sharing ✌️
I’d like to see this done halfway up a rock and mud strewn Welsh mountain in the pissing rain at 4 Celsius, your bike on a trail stand in a gale, no convenient tire to rest your wheel on (or bottle of Windex). I change my T700 and R1 tyres at home in my garage no problem - but on a trail? I don’t kid myself.
I've always found it easier to put the very slightly inflated tube into the tyre first, and lower the rim onto the valve, just hold it in place with the valve stem nut, rather than trying to feed the tube in after getting the first bead on. No right or wrong way, just the way I prefer to do it.
Thanks for watching! The AX41 is pretty reasonable as far as mounting and dismounting. That’s the one thing keeping me from trying out the Motoz tires. I didn’t have too much trouble with the stock pirelli, but I used the bead breaker on the Rabaconda tire changer.
Thank you! I will probably continue to keep them in my onboard tool kit, but they aren't my favorite tire levers. They didn't work well at all on the KLR rear tire so I also carried some normal steel irons. Eastbound makes some interesting and compact tire lever/ bead breaker/ axle tool kits that I have heard good things about, but I haven't tried them. They are a little on the pricey side though.
That was basically my feeling too. After 15000 miles and a couple big trips on the bike, it figured I should practice and make sure I can get myself out of that situation without too much trouble.
Thanks for watching! It certainly comes that way, but I switched it around and I am pretty sure it doesn't matter. I have seen others do the same thing. Having the nut on the right side makes it easier to loosen. The benefit for the original direction is it supports the brake caliper immediately, which my little Velcro strap does quite nicely.
I suggest getting a piece of velcro strap to wrap around your front brake lever and grip. For rear tire changes, that will prevent an inconvenient roll off your stand. Don't ask me how I know.
I used to know a guy who was riding since he was like 6 or 7 years old... He was able to change a flat on a tube tire in like 8 minutes and even faster if he was in his garage where he could lift the bike properly. Meanwhile there's me, who needs like half an hour or more to change a tube!
It doesn't look like it on the video, but there is only 1/16" (1.5mm) left on the center knobs. With filming and balancing it took me a little over an hour to change the tire.
I had one set of tires changed at a dealer and it was expensive and took several hours. That’s when I decided to learn how to do it. It just takes practice and there are lots of helpful videos out there. I’ve also heard that bringing the wheels only to a dealer speeds up the process and lowers the cost quite a bit.
I know. I turned it around to make it easier to undo the nut without a long wrench. The only downside is the axel doesn’t hold the caliper, which the Velcro strap fixes.
Thank goodness for tubeless, this is one reason I would not consider this bike for commuting. I like the bike but why do folks pay a high price then spend a 3rd as much again changing and improving? Well I think Yamaha need to up the game to keep up with newer bike on the market.
I have heard that the bead is really hard to break on the stock scorpions on the Tenere. I used a Raboconda tire changer for the first tire change and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, but the bead breaker works pretty well on that setup. The tire changer is definitely easier than using the trail tools...
@@simonvanderwal9084 ok, your name sounds dutch... About the change to tubeless: after taking off the wheels the tires and the inner tube protector you have to clean the rim with break cleaner or similar. Check the tension on the radials. With a heat gun bring up the temperature off the area around the radial screws to 180/200 °C and cover the radial screw with hot glue (inside the rim bead) . I used universal glue. Then you also have to use a tubeless valve. I used about 400 ml (bicycle) tire milk in the rear wheel to prevent small leaks. Front wheel about 300ml. Initially the tire might lose a little air but the tire liquid will stop the leakage. Shake the wheel well before refit on the motorbike. I did not make a video because i was not sure it would work, it was like an experiment. It turned out to work well, just check your tire pressure before riding until you feel confident. Tubeless tires are way easier to repair in the field, as you probably know. Please keep me informed on the results. Succes and take care Marc.
That looks lethal. On a solid floor you tried your best to lose a foot, on rough ground you surely would have succeeded. There is nothing to stop it rolling forwards or backwards and then it's down.
I stopped at 4:44 when you used two tools you don’t carry to get the axle out. ‘I would have figured out a way, probably with my tire irons’ is wishful thinking. At that point the test of your tool kit was invalidated.
That’s fair. The sticky axle was unusual so I wanted to make sure I got it out as gently as possible. I do intend to keep this bike around for a while 🙃
I felt the same way. I understand what the point is, but several times he used a better option. There's the nice, flat, enclosed, working space. Of course the wishful thinking with the axle. Putting the wheel on the new tire instead of actually on a cloth in the dirt. The special tire lubricant instead of the dish soap that I doubt he carries on every single ride. Last and probably least is what he's wearing. Changing a tire in riding boots and what not would be worse.
I've tried those motion pro rim protectors and they don't work well for me. Is there something better out there? This is the 4th tire replacement for this bike and there isn't a scratch on the rim yet. I'm not crazy about the outex and 3m rim tape tubeless conversions so I haven't switched to tubeless.
3M 5200. Thats all you need. No tape just the 5200 applied properly. Tubless. To hell with tubes and tire levers. Stick a plug in it. Pump it up and go.
WHOT..??.. Do YOU have a service-car or trailer with you.? This pressure-gauge is massiv and way to heavy.. there are digital ones there.. lightweight and cheap.. The pressure pump... with cables. (??) . is from the 1960s, right..??? I had a 10 cm long bolt in my rear tire, 1 cm in diameter.. and I was able to fix the problem in under 10 minutes, using immediately 3 plugs and my Bosch Easypump.. chargeable via C-USB.. YES, I like TUBELESS, only.. Never waiting at gasstations again, no broken equipment or paying 1 buck for "AIR".. I took me longer, to get the bolt out of my tire, only 3 cm was visible.. Glad, that I had a good plier in my NC 750 Honda X frunk.. I drove trough Canada and USA, 32 times to the Isle of Man and back.. and NEVER had a flat tire.. BUT, in my own home town on a normal paved road.. BANG..!! (Last flat was in the late 70s, also in Berlin.. using the USELESS spray.. 😡 Had to shove my Kawasaki Z 400 for over 8 Miles.. on a weekend..) The tire was brandnew with only 3.000 km..that was making me angry.. But, now, it is history. The Bosch pump for 60 bucks from a DIY did a great job, wouldn't miss it. Safe journeys for all of you, check your HIGH QUALITY ! tools and reduce the weight. as much as possible for important stuff. Take water and emergency ration of food with you.. a additional powerbank and a spare key...and 2 First Aid blankets, very helpful.. Best greetings.. Nobby, Berlin 🇩🇪
I won't go anywhere without my service car 🤣 The pressure gauge must look way bigger on camera. It's only 40mm in diameter and doesn't weigh much. The pump is about the same weight as the bosch one you have and I don't need to keep the battery charged. Everyone says tools were made better in the 1960s anyway 🙃 It would have been nice if this bike had tubeless rims, but I am not crazy about the DIY tubeless solutions. I've also had very few punctures over the years. One was my fault for not checking the rim liner and the other was a little nail that caused a slow leak that I didn't notice until I went to get the bike out of the garage again. I would probably be in more of a hurry to find a tubeless solution if I lived near lots of cacti 🌵 Happy travels :)
Are there any tips or tricks that you have to make doing a trailside flat repair easier? Are there any tools that you wouldn't go anywhere without?
I tend to buy tubeless rims whenever possible to avoid having to remove the wheel on the trail to patch a pinhole...but seriously, great video, the more we do it the easier it gets!
I can't speak from experience - only had a flat in the front which is easier - but I've seen videos showing options for keeping the bead in the drop center, including the motion pro bead buddy, blocks of wood or a vise. They all seem to help.
I have since added a bead buddy to the tool kit!
And I, a vise.
you can break the bead easily riding your tyre off a bit before you tak it out.
Great ‘real world’ video - refreshingly correct & accurate too, inc the spring loaded flying tyre levers pinging off in all directions 😅
I’m glad you enjoyed it 😂
Nothing worse than flat on the rear. You showed great patience! I would of been using every foul word I could think of!!
I'm glad I took the time to try it out in the comfort of the home shop! I need to find a little container for some tire lubricant to keep on the bike. The little tire irons are by no means as easy as the large ones on the tire changer, but they weren't as bad as I was fearing, and I'll only have to take one bead off on the trail :)
Foul words increase your strength while getting used during nut and bolt unscrewing
same
I made little spacers with 1/2" pvc tubing, cut 2" pieces then cut a slot along side the pieces then with a heat gun shape them like little rectangles, I then shoved them against the bead and the tire stays within the drop center. Without somekind of spacer it is very stressful but with spacers it is very fast and very easy. I made 6 of them and tied small pieces of thin rope on them to make it easy to pull them out once the tire is mounted.
Thanks for the tip! I've not seen this method before. It's always interesting to see all the ways that people tackle the same problem :)
Great vid, great work !...I've had the 2009 XT660Z Tenere for 9 years and live in the mountains of Portugal and changed 14 rears..I've ground off the notoriously difficult 'safety bead' from the rear rim (a tip that's not for everyone and your front doesn't have one anyway which is a far harder 'flat' to control at speed). It make bead breaking with the Motion Pro's much, much easier. I also carry a very small Vaseline pot and smear the tyre beads and rim for removal and refit...The tyre re-seats much faster and the Vas dries out so no 'tyre -creep'.....Also, I take the tyre's beads off their own sides. Standing upright, the wheel will then fall into the tyre leaving a huge gap at the top. You can then pull the wheel straight out...with a little persuasion !
You're the second to recommend getting the rim into the middle of the tire for removal. I'll have to give that a shot next time.
Great video,, nice to see that it actually takes some real work and tools slipping to change the tire and not only 5 min.
Thanks! I haven’t changed enough tires using these levers for it to take 5 minutes 🙃
Nice video. I've had good luck using the large zip-tie technique to keep the tire pinched together, which makes it easy to keep it more centered in the wheel well, which then makes spooning the tire back on relatively easy. Also, my secret is lots and lots of Windex!
Thank you :) I've heard of the zip-tie technique but never tried it. I have the nomar tire paste mixed with water in a sprayer for tire lube. It works well and I think the tub of paste will last me a very long time.
It was refreshing to see a tire changing video where the job is a struggle as opposed to the many usually promotional videos where tires seemingly made of soft butter are spooned on with the greatest of ease. Changing tires is a PITA, even in one's garage with all the tools.
A major difference in technique when completely removing the tire - simply lever each side of the tire over it's side of the wheel. Once both sides of the tire are off, the wheel will drop into the tire giving enough space that you can pull it out at an angle. Assemble this way in reverse.
Another thing I do is put the new tire out in the sun and let it bake, this softens the tire. If that is not an option, put a hair dryer in the tire and let hot air run round and round inside it for awhile.
The Baja No Pinch tire tool in combo with a Bead Buddy is nice for putting tires back on, especially in a "rustic" environment away from your shop.
I have a Rabaconda tire changer, it wasn't cheap and isn't strictly necessary, but it is a back saver for sure.
Do pay attention to the weight dot on the sidewall of the tire, this is where the belts overlap in the carcass and it is the heaviest part of the tire. Put the dot opposite the valve stem for the best wheel balance without actually balancing them.
I have a $50 Harbor Freight static balancer and it works great. Installed rim locks on my Husky 701's wheels and balanced for them. The rim locks will let you run lower pressures without tearing a valve stem, and they can help you slowly ride out of an area if you get a flat to a better spot to work on the bike if you need to. I used spoke weights for the balancing, tested to velocities I won't mention, smooth as can be 😆
Thanks for your comment! I haven't tried the opposite sides thing, I'll have to give that a shot some time. I also have a raboconda tire changer that I usually use and it is way easier than the trail tools :) The AX41s don't have a balancing mark, unfortunately. I use a Marc Parnes balancer that I hang between jack stands for balancing. What spoke weights do you use? I have been using stick-on weights for the rear and re-using old spoke weights for the front.
Well done.
I saw a guy when removing & re-installing the rear tire use a tie strap to support the wheel assembly in place of using your feet.
The tie strap was over the seat and hanging down both sides. It was then place between the spokes. Then adusted the strap to support the wheel by the rim. Not the spokes.
Then remove the axle,... and loosen the tie strap.
To install the wheel reverse the process. This eliminates any rushed feeling as the wheel can be easily lifted and held in place to install the axle.
That’s a cool idea, thank you!
So very useful. I changed the rear tyre on my T7 and referred to this many times when I got stuck.
That's awesome! I'm glad I could help in some way. It's a good skill to add to the proverbial tool box.
I converted the rear of my 2013 Triumph Tiger 800 XC to tubeless years ago. Best decision I ever made. You don't want to be in the middle of nowhere (I'm a solo rider), trying to repair/replace a tube, by having to remove the rear wheel from the frame. I'm shopping for my next ADV bike and having tubeless on the front and rear is a must. You're doing this in a controlled environment which is nowhere close to the conditions you'd find out in the wild.
What system did you use?
Great video, I will now try my own tools for the first time!
That’s awesome! It’s really liberating to be able to be self reliant when it comes to bike maintenance. Don’t forget to balance the tires. I have a simple static balance setup.
If you put a few small sockets in the gap between the tire and the wheel, it keeps the tire from riding up onto the bead.
Great tip! Thanks!
Thanks for posting a lot of good tips your tool kit is worth taking note couple of tips I've picked up watching vids is carry a garbage bag in your kit to lie on the ground to keep dirt out of the hubs and a really good idea from that Aussie adventure rider airemann1 Carry a ratchet strap and strap either the front or back of your bike to a tree to keep the wheel of the ground again not my ideas but we'll worth sharing ✌️
The garbage bag is a good idea! I usually have a tarp if I’m doing long distance travel, but the garbage bag could be easily stashed under the seat.
@adventurepiggy you need a motion pro bead buddy to hold the bead on the side opposite from where your using the tire irons.
Thank you! I just ordered the mini trail version
Tubeless wheels is needed on the T700
nice, did you change nut on your rear axle? my tenere has but o the other side.
I flipped the axle around to make it easier to loosen the nut away from the garage.
I’d like to see this done halfway up a rock and mud strewn Welsh mountain in the pissing rain at 4 Celsius, your bike on a trail stand in a gale, no convenient tire to rest your wheel on (or bottle of Windex). I change my T700 and R1 tyres at home in my garage no problem - but on a trail? I don’t kid myself.
I've always found it easier to put the very slightly inflated tube into the tyre first, and lower the rim onto the valve, just hold it in place with the valve stem nut, rather than trying to feed the tube in after getting the first bead on. No right or wrong way, just the way I prefer to do it.
Thanks! I'll have to give that a try next time.
silicone spray or Windex, remember to align it as well. Good job, keep at it.
Thanks! I used to use windex, but the nomar tire paste works really well.
THANK YOU 🙂
Excellent presentation, thanks for sharing.
It seems like that tire is a lot easier to work with than the stock pirelli.
Thanks for watching! The AX41 is pretty reasonable as far as mounting and dismounting. That’s the one thing keeping me from trying out the Motoz tires. I didn’t have too much trouble with the stock pirelli, but I used the bead breaker on the Rabaconda tire changer.
Excellent
Thank you!
Great video. Do you recommend the bead breakers or would you use any other type of tire spoons in the future?
Thank you! I will probably continue to keep them in my onboard tool kit, but they aren't my favorite tire levers. They didn't work well at all on the KLR rear tire so I also carried some normal steel irons. Eastbound makes some interesting and compact tire lever/ bead breaker/ axle tool kits that I have heard good things about, but I haven't tried them. They are a little on the pricey side though.
Thanks for the quick response. Keep the videos coming. I believe you’ll have a good audience with simple but useful “how to” techniques.
Well done, I have an Africa Twin and dread the day I will have to do that on a ride…
That was basically my feeling too. After 15000 miles and a couple big trips on the bike, it figured I should practice and make sure I can get myself out of that situation without too much trouble.
OKO !
Thanks for the video! Great to see. However, shouldn't the nut on the axle bolt be on the left-hand side - or doesn't matter?
Thanks for watching! It certainly comes that way, but I switched it around and I am pretty sure it doesn't matter. I have seen others do the same thing. Having the nut on the right side makes it easier to loosen. The benefit for the original direction is it supports the brake caliper immediately, which my little Velcro strap does quite nicely.
Thanks for the response! 👍 OK, get it 👍
Great video, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
I suggest getting a piece of velcro strap to wrap around your front brake lever and grip. For rear tire changes, that will prevent an inconvenient roll off your stand.
Don't ask me how I know.
That's exactly what I did at 01:35 :) Those little velcro straps are super useful!
@@AdventurePiggy I'm sorry that I missed it. Nice work and video!
@@blakeberlin6295 No problem :) Thank you!
I used to know a guy who was riding since he was like 6 or 7 years old... He was able to change a flat on a tube tire in like 8 minutes and even faster if he was in his garage where he could lift the bike properly. Meanwhile there's me, who needs like half an hour or more to change a tube!
Gotta start ‘em young! I wish I started when I was that age.
Why did you change the tires anyway?
The old one didn’t look like it needed replacing
how log did it take you to do the job
It doesn't look like it on the video, but there is only 1/16" (1.5mm) left on the center knobs. With filming and balancing it took me a little over an hour to change the tire.
@@AdventurePiggy oh not to log do the job beter then paying like 200 4 them to do it and rip you off
I had one set of tires changed at a dealer and it was expensive and took several hours. That’s when I decided to learn how to do it. It just takes practice and there are lots of helpful videos out there. I’ve also heard that bringing the wheels only to a dealer speeds up the process and lowers the cost quite a bit.
@@AdventurePiggy don’t blame you mate
My rear tire cost close to £200 literally took him 20 minutes next time, I’ll give it a go myself
The tire prices are better online as well even before you take installation into account
I don't have a vulcanizer. I think I need to put a picture of Spock in my wallet.
🤣
How did you get the bike to your house?
I didn’t have a real flat. Just for the purpose of illustration. The bike needed a new tire so I wanted to see how my onboard toolkit held up.
@@AdventurePiggy Got it. Great video.
Your axle is installed on backwards. The nut should be on the left side. I am not sure if this matters along as you use the correct blocks.
I know. I turned it around to make it easier to undo the nut without a long wrench. The only downside is the axel doesn’t hold the caliper, which the Velcro strap fixes.
Nice job! I thought the baby powder was to make it smell fresher. 😊
That's just an added bonus 🙃
that's why I consider tubes tires old school....
great vid
Thanks!
Good job !!
Thanks! I'm glad you liked the video!
Thank goodness for tubeless, this is one reason I would not consider this bike for commuting. I like the bike but why do folks pay a high price then spend a 3rd as much again changing and improving? Well I think Yamaha need to up the game to keep up with newer bike on the market.
nice job
Thanks! Glad you liked the video!
I'm just to damn lazy for this, give me a Tubeless tire and Rim all day. Nice job though !
I think I would switch to tubeless if I was somewhere with more cacti 🌵
Why flip the axle?
I flipped the axle so I can use body weight to loosen the nut if I need to.
@@AdventurePiggy thank you. I wish manf would have little pull handles on axles.
This is why I only run tubeless om my ADV bikes.
Is tubeless a main consideration when choosing a bike?
nuts allways on the right hopfully
Almost impossible to get the scorpions off with hand tools.
I have heard that the bead is really hard to break on the stock scorpions on the Tenere. I used a Raboconda tire changer for the first tire change and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, but the bead breaker works pretty well on that setup. The tire changer is definitely easier than using the trail tools...
I have made my spoked rims tubeless, no need to repair inner tubes.
What system did you use?
@@simonvanderwal9084 Hello Simon, spreek je Nederlands?
@@marcthebrush I understand a tiny bit but don’t speak it
@@simonvanderwal9084 ok, your name sounds dutch... About the change to tubeless: after taking off the wheels the tires and the inner tube protector you have to clean the rim with break cleaner or similar. Check the tension on the radials. With a heat gun bring up the temperature off the area around the radial screws to 180/200 °C and cover the radial screw with hot glue (inside the rim bead) . I used universal glue. Then you also have to use a tubeless valve. I used about 400 ml (bicycle) tire milk in the rear wheel to prevent small leaks. Front wheel about 300ml.
Initially the tire might lose a little air but the tire liquid will stop the leakage. Shake the wheel well before refit on the motorbike.
I did not make a video because i was not sure it would work, it was like an experiment. It turned out to work well, just check your tire pressure before riding until you feel confident. Tubeless tires are way easier to repair in the field, as you probably know. Please keep me informed on the results. Succes and take care Marc.
@@marcthebrush Wow, I haven’t seen this method before. I am amazed the hot glue is staying on there. Thank you for your detailed write up.
Check out Adam Rieman, he’ll show you how it’s done 👍🏻
I just wish he had done the rear tire on his video... The front one is so much easier. I reckon he's changed a lot more tires than I have :)
That looks lethal. On a solid floor you tried your best to lose a foot, on rough ground you surely would have succeeded. There is nothing to stop it rolling forwards or backwards and then it's down.
That’s why I lock the front brake. The stand is much more stable than it looks.
I stopped at 4:44 when you used two tools you don’t carry to get the axle out.
‘I would have figured out a way, probably with my tire irons’ is wishful thinking.
At that point the test of your tool kit was invalidated.
That’s fair. The sticky axle was unusual so I wanted to make sure I got it out as gently as possible. I do intend to keep this bike around for a while 🙃
Is your comment really necessary?
I felt the same way. I understand what the point is, but several times he used a better option. There's the nice, flat, enclosed, working space. Of course the wishful thinking with the axle. Putting the wheel on the new tire instead of actually on a cloth in the dirt. The special tire lubricant instead of the dish soap that I doubt he carries on every single ride. Last and probably least is what he's wearing. Changing a tire in riding boots and what not would be worse.
nightmare use plastic prodection for the rim...se some videos how delete the tube ,,
I've tried those motion pro rim protectors and they don't work well for me. Is there something better out there? This is the 4th tire replacement for this bike and there isn't a scratch on the rim yet. I'm not crazy about the outex and 3m rim tape tubeless conversions so I haven't switched to tubeless.
look some videos here how update tube problem to be more strong not lose air wehn damage..
Мечта.Україна.
I hate tubed tires. There is no reason to run these on a nearly 500lb, bike. Good job though.
I certainly see the appeal of tubeless. I guess I learned how to change tires with tubes and haven’t had many problems to sour my view of them.
Bead budy" tool " make thing easyer its small and light and trust me you will love it , its like 20$
Thank you! Someone else recommended that too. It's already in my toolkit for next time :)
3M 5200. Thats all you need. No tape just the 5200 applied properly. Tubless. To hell with tubes and tire levers. Stick a plug in it. Pump it up and go.
Have you used 3m 5200 yourself?
WHOT..??.. Do YOU have a service-car or trailer with you.?
This pressure-gauge is massiv and way to heavy.. there are digital ones there.. lightweight and cheap..
The pressure pump... with cables. (??) . is from the 1960s, right..???
I had a 10 cm long bolt in my rear tire, 1 cm in diameter.. and I was able to fix the problem in under 10 minutes, using immediately 3 plugs and my Bosch Easypump.. chargeable via C-USB..
YES, I like TUBELESS, only..
Never waiting at gasstations again, no broken equipment or paying 1 buck for "AIR"..
I took me longer, to get the bolt out of my tire, only 3 cm was visible..
Glad, that I had a good plier in my NC 750 Honda X frunk..
I drove trough Canada and USA, 32 times to the Isle of Man and back.. and NEVER had a flat tire..
BUT, in my own home town on a normal paved road.. BANG..!!
(Last flat was in the late 70s, also in Berlin.. using the USELESS spray.. 😡
Had to shove my Kawasaki Z 400 for over 8 Miles.. on a weekend..)
The tire was brandnew with only 3.000 km..that was making me angry.. But, now, it is history.
The Bosch pump for 60 bucks from a DIY did a great job, wouldn't miss it.
Safe journeys for all of you, check your HIGH QUALITY ! tools and reduce the weight. as much as possible for important stuff.
Take water and emergency ration of food with you.. a additional powerbank and a spare key...and 2 First Aid blankets, very helpful..
Best greetings.. Nobby, Berlin 🇩🇪
I won't go anywhere without my service car 🤣
The pressure gauge must look way bigger on camera. It's only 40mm in diameter and doesn't weigh much.
The pump is about the same weight as the bosch one you have and I don't need to keep the battery charged. Everyone says tools were made better in the 1960s anyway 🙃
It would have been nice if this bike had tubeless rims, but I am not crazy about the DIY tubeless solutions. I've also had very few punctures over the years. One was my fault for not checking the rim liner and the other was a little nail that caused a slow leak that I didn't notice until I went to get the bike out of the garage again. I would probably be in more of a hurry to find a tubeless solution if I lived near lots of cacti 🌵
Happy travels :)
Tube?????
Ridiculous...