Thanks for the video and I have some thoughts about timing: The primary thing that is trying to be accomplished is to measure the maximum advance on the timing. In this case, 19 degrees before top dead center, or 19 BTDC. The reason 'they' want you to use a test prop is so you, the tester, set the throttle to wide open and make 5000 rpm, but not exceed 5500 rpm (spec in the manual to get a prop that does that on the water) The primary issue is Wide Open Throttle. Since the timing is purely mechanical, has nothing to do with rpm, we can observe the cam action where the actuator physically moves the link for timing. By advancing the throttle, we can see the link move and the timing arm move as well. UP TO A POINT! At about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, the actuator arm and the timing, no longer physically advance. The cam action turns straight, no longer a curve, so the arm doesn't physically move the timing past that point. My testing discovered that with motor out of water, with the flushing adaptor attached, I reach 5500 rpm at the same point in the cam movement that the timing doesn't physically advance any further. By setting my timing so that it is at 19 BTDC with the motor running w/flush adaptor, and throttle set for 5500 rpm, the timing doesn't advance any further pushing the throttle further all the way to wide open throttle. This is something you can do for very short periods of time: blip the throttle to WOT (wide open throttle) and observe the timing mark with a timing light and see that the timing doesn't move any further than it did at 5500rpm and 1/2 or so throttle. Physically impossible to get more advance out the timing since the cam motion that moves the actuator arm that controls timing flattens out the movement. Sounds confusing, but think about it, and you'll see that the timing is a physical movement, controlled by the cam, which is controlled by the throttle and tops out well before WOT. The only issue then is rpm, making minimum 5,000 rpm for full 19 BTDC and not earlier. Verify that idle is ZERO degrees advance. (Some people state it's 4 BTDC, but the only way setting 4 BTDC is to have full 19BTDC well before 5,000rpm and that'll put a hole in a piston by way of over heat and pressure. Either that or you'll break a rod. Cheers!
Thanks for your detailed videos. I just finished rebuilding my 1990 Evinrude 40 HP 2 stroke and your videos keep me going. Could you PLEASE make a video on how to do the timing in this engine I don´t want mine to blow up. I have tried to watch one for this enginge particularly on the site but there isn´t. Thank you so much for the help.
Have had some wacky stuff going on with my notification from UA-cam. Got it fixed I just saw your post. Thank you so much! I love your video's too btw.
Aww you dog you have a test prop! You’re right there’s none to be had. That’s usually where I have to stop on these engines because I’m not YOLOing! Great video! Thank you
Hey Brandon, Thanks for all of the great videos, they have really helped. I am doing a link and synch on a 1987 40 HP E40ECD Evinrude (as I recall you have done some videos on one of those earlier models as well) and I just got my copy of the OMC Service Manual and I was surprised to find no mention of the measurements for the lengths of the two rods that you reference in this video on the later models. Did you find those measurements somewhere else? Or, are they not relevant for the earlier model OMC 40's? Thanks in advance!
FYI I took the plugs out installed a wire thing with a gator clip to ground out the plug wires put it in full WOT and used my remote start and it hits dead on @ 19 degrees.
Can you elaborate on this for me a little. I’m trying to figure my timing out. You basically just grounded the plug wires to the block and cranked it over with the starter with a test light on it? It’s not under load but sounds like that’s a decent way to get timing close. I’m not looking to build a racer, just want it to run safely.
@@wwburroughs You have to have a remote start to bypass the neutral safety switch. So, either you do this on the water at WOT (not really safe) or you do this the way I suggest and it works. The timing and the carbs opening have to be in sync to properly run.
Hi Brandon, you prepare some great videos, thanks for taking the time to helps us all, l have just completed the synchronisation and have question, even with the cable adjustment in the zero position l cannot fit the throttle pin into place without giving some throttle linkage advancement, is that ok or do l need to look at changing cables. Chers.
I am surprised you didn't use the Joe Reeves link and synch method for the WOT timing. Ground all spark plug wires with the plugs removed, put a timing light on #1 cylinder, open throttle to WOT, and get the timing (+4 degrees). Meaning if it shows 24 degrees BTC, while actually running it would be 28 BTC (+4 when the engine is actually running due to how the ignition system works.
@@BrandonsGarage Brandon I have a 1991 Evinrude 40 horsepower VRO engine is the engine a push throttle or is it a pull throttle for the Marpac single lever control 7-0119
I've tested mine every which way and I always get 0 BTDC at idle, 19 BTDC at WOT. Actually 19BTDC at a little over half throttle, but the cam stops advancing timing anyways past that point.
One question......what is the part number for the front roller? I can't seem to find it in any of the parts diagrams. Great videos on the 40hp. They have been VERY helpful in getting my old '91 back up to snuff.
My question is if those rollers are worn down what effect will that have on running the motor? If I just replace these rollers will it screw up my timing? My rollers are worn down a bit. The boat Idles at about 800rpm and It's supposed to Idle at 725 to 775. Thanks!
clip timing lead to #1 cyl. read timing on flywheel directly across from pointer. done. on models with adjustable timing pointer, you must set it with a piston stop tool.
I have the same motor same year I've cleaned carbs checked floats all checks out. I still have idle problems I can't keep it idling seems the idle is low how can I idle the engine higher so I don't stop running?
Hi Brandon the second little roller package doesn't show the part number like the first one did 432572(rear) what's the number for the front one please
Brandon, where are you located? I’ve got a 1975 Evinrude 50 and I’m having a hard time finding anyone who’ll work on it. I believe carbs need rebuilding. Idles real rough. Runs good above idle. I live near Knoxville Tn.
Good evning I was wondering if u had any factory setting info on the low speed jet? They are located rite behind the throttle linkage on the carbs thank u for any help
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. This might just be the solution to our problems. Are the two rollers the same? Or is the follower roller a different part? I'm in Australia and the Ebay links aren't working from here. Thanks again for all the time you invest in your videos. They're a big part of my steep learning curve!
Hello,, I'm in the UK and when I last looked some years ago these rollers were going to cost £50 with postage! Since then Evinrude went bust and I got a 3d printer. Just printed them today in pla. If they survive I'll post the files on Thingiverse.
I just picked up a boat with the same motor. 93 evinrude tracker 40hp. I did a cold compression test before doing a lake test & compression was 150 on top cylinder 149 on bottom. Does that seem high? I trust the gauge
Nope, its prefect. All the good running 1989+ 40-50HP I have, all have 150PSI. When they drop closser to 100- you start having running & idling problems.
@@BrandonsGarage gotcha thanks glad to hear that. Yea this one is a little cold natured, wants to die out when going into reverse from idle on a cold start, once warm it runs out fine & throttle is responsive. Thinking the low idle needs to be adjusted a little higher
I did my 89. 48. Got 19 and 2 deg. Btdc. Static timing. Was as 22.5 deg .btdc. It idles great and wot plugs look good! It's a lot of crazy. Wrong work. To get there. Slowly with omc directions.
So my throttle cables and levers are a little different (j40elccs) but the carb linkage is the same and my carb linkage was not set correctly, one of the carbs the rod was not even fully seated. Anyhow i adjust the linkage so they open at exactly the same time. Thank you.
Hi Brandon, Watched every videos of yours and I have learn alot from them.. I have a 89 Johnson 70 hp idling fast then slow then fast then slow. Carbs are cleaned and It's running with VRO. Any idea what the problem is? Please help. Thanks
Hi Brandon I have the same motor as you,,I just bought and used it as it was for this year,,I hauled the boat up last week and noticed that the throttle sync is way out of whack,, the plate with the half moon slot that has the little roller in it that u adjusted first is nowhere near the 2 arrows and the spark control rod is wound out to about 3 inches..the motor seems to run ok..do u think I should correct or leave well enough alone?
Have you ever made a video for setting/adjusting the low speed needle valve on the carbs? I decided to just check where mine were by turning them in until seated, counting the turns along the way, then turning the same number of turns back out. WHAT A MISTAKE! Motor would not start. Had to fuss with them for a couple of hours before I found the right combo so the motor would run again. 1/4 turn either way and the engine nearly dies and that's just ONE carb, not both. Very touchy. I was hoping to discover a way to get my motor to run better at high altitudes. Where I live, I could be fishing anywhere from around 100' above sea level to over 6,000' above. At above 4500, the motor struggles to idle and floods very easily. Hoping someone somewhere has some insight into the adjustment for these jets or how to rejet the rest of the carb for high altitudes without big drama.
Do you have a fbook? I just got a 40horse evinrude and I'm trying to get everything right in it. I have it running but it doesnt idle very well. But driving it seems to run fine.. I've cleaned the carbs already. Just trying to figure out why it dies at idle...
Sounds like it is sucking in to much air and not enough fuel try adjusting your air control valve should be on top of the carburetor hope this helps you out.
I just got a 92 40hp. Follow that other video, the one thats in VHS he posted. Really good. But the timing rod length on mine cant be 2 1/6" cus it won't adjust down that short. Waiting on a manual off ebay, only $25
Is this the same procedure for a 1993 Evinrude VE50TLETF? I downloaded a manual online and it is terrible. What manual do you suggest for ease of readability?
Please Help. I have an 1989 Johnson 70HP rebuild by Coastline Marine in Florida. The rebuild cost $3180. (rebuild include: bore the 2 bottom cylinders to the next larger size piston. replace the top piston for cylinder 1, rebuild carbs, new thermostat). The guy told me to check the ignition and timing by a mechanic. I have called every marina in Boston area to have them check the timing for me but no one is willing to work on older motor so I have to check the ignition/timing myself. I have watched UA-cam videos bought 2 manuals to do the timing/ignition myself. When I check the TDC of the motor, new TDC mark that I've found is 2.5" to the left of the factory TDC. Is this correct ? TDC needs to be correct before I can continue forward. Thanks for your help.
Yeah, probaby right. you can why my OMC timing video to get an idea of how far out that it. Your problem will probably be the wide open throttle stop...
@@BrandonsGarage thank you. I did watch that video multiple times. The new TDC mark that I have found was 2.5 inches to the right of the factory TDC not LEFT.
I have a question. Jus purchased a 99 50hp Johnson. Are the 7 13/16 and 2 1/16 rod lengths the same for the 25 thru 50 models or are the lengths different?
Hi. Great video. Did you use the same sleeve and roller for both the spark lever and near the carb? I have an '89 40hp Evinrude. Crowley Marine's website shows them both as sleeve and rollers but have different part numbers. Thanks.
Just did the lync and sinc on my 1995 40hp evinrude. Followed step by step. I did notice that I was missing the plastic sleeve that goes on the roller for the throttle. Motor runs fine but stalls out in low idle. I’m wondering if missing the plastic sleeve could be my issue?🤷🏻♂️
No not really the idle timing could need to be advanced a little more and the idle mixture adjusted also. I would advance the idle timing first then the carburetors.
I'd suggest to set timing just a little advance on idle ....this fixed mine and runs so much better and didn't effect top end rpm...the older motors new Tec. Calls for this...so I tried it on mine...worked great
Hi, Great video! What I was wanting to know do you have a video on how to disassemble the throttle assembly and also the red Center adjustment you can turn left or right is that supposed to tighten or is it supposed to just rotate because it don't really seem to do anything or is it defective? Thank you Brandon
I have the 1992 50hp Johnson. That roller didn’t fit in either spot on my motor. It is too big around for the carburetor roller. Its too long for the the other roller, so I cut it down. My motor looks identical to the engine in the video. part # 397499.
The factory idle setting is 3 whole turns out from light seating and need to be adjusted until idle around 800 rpm s and when sounds balanced. The medium to high speed jets have no adjustments.
hello, I have a question. I have a 1992 evinrude 48 spl basically the same thing. My spark advance lever breaks into when I try to crank the motor would you have any idea what would cause this. The rod that measures 2.1 throws all the way back and stops the flywheel from turning. Thanks in advance if you have any Ideas.
I added this already but that timing rod on the 90 is a different part number on my 92. I figured it out when I tried to adjust it down to 2.1..... could only get 2.3. Was at 2.6ish. Hopefully the manual I have coming will verify its different.
Hi Brandon how much do these models weigh? Thinking of getting a long shaft with power tilt and trim for my 14 foot skiff and I’m a little worried about the weight.
Would the same specs apply to a 2000 Johnson 40hp? Everything looks the same, except for spark advance slot. Mine has an additional curve within the curve. As yours is one smooth curve.
You are in luck my friend, as there is exactly one on eBay - ebay.to/2KWbGV5 They came on Rope-Start engines only. With rope start, you have no electronics, thus, no VRO. Rope start 40-50HP engines from the early 90's are extremely uncommon. Ive been looking for a new hood for my engine (again, rope start engine only) for almost a year now, with no luck. However, you can still buy a new air cover, will cost just shy of $200: 0395361 BASE, Air silencer. Rope Start 0329396 COVER, Air silencer. Rope start 0329239 SCREW, Cover to base. Rope Start
Hi Dear Nice video! İ have similar motors. But our motor sometimes doesnt working. Firstly it is working and a few min later when i stopped to engine it is dont start again one more time. But 15 min later it is working again What is the problem on your mind ? What do you thibk about this problem ?
Do you know if its normal for the flywheel to get very hot for these motors? I have two, and one does and the other doesnt. I have read somewhere that its normal due the electric generation, but my other one doesnt get so hot. The water from both engines is very cool, so I do not really think the motor itself is overheating... Trying to troubleshoot the issue. Thanks
1991 40 ho evinrude why would i not have full engine speed at WOT in water but when out of water motor runs great at WOT. its really just like bogged in water full speed runs and idles good just hi speed is a dog thank you in advance
you are never gonna get a carbed 2 stroke to idle much better than that. carbs, as much as i love them, cannot meter the fuel like a computer. can get very close, but not like injectors.
Thanks for the video and I have some thoughts about timing:
The primary thing that is trying to be accomplished is to measure the maximum advance on the timing. In this case, 19 degrees before top dead center, or 19 BTDC. The reason 'they' want you to use a test prop is so you, the tester, set the throttle to wide open and make 5000 rpm, but not exceed 5500 rpm (spec in the manual to get a prop that does that on the water) The primary issue is Wide Open Throttle. Since the timing is purely mechanical, has nothing to do with rpm, we can observe the cam action where the actuator physically moves the link for timing. By advancing the throttle, we can see the link move and the timing arm move as well. UP TO A POINT! At about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, the actuator arm and the timing, no longer physically advance. The cam action turns straight, no longer a curve, so the arm doesn't physically move the timing past that point.
My testing discovered that with motor out of water, with the flushing adaptor attached, I reach 5500 rpm at the same point in the cam movement that the timing doesn't physically advance any further. By setting my timing so that it is at 19 BTDC with the motor running w/flush adaptor, and throttle set for 5500 rpm, the timing doesn't advance any further pushing the throttle further all the way to wide open throttle. This is something you can do for very short periods of time: blip the throttle to WOT (wide open throttle) and observe the timing mark with a timing light and see that the timing doesn't move any further than it did at 5500rpm and 1/2 or so throttle. Physically impossible to get more advance out the timing since the cam motion that moves the actuator arm that controls timing flattens out the movement.
Sounds confusing, but think about it, and you'll see that the timing is a physical movement, controlled by the cam, which is controlled by the throttle and tops out well before WOT. The only issue then is rpm, making minimum 5,000 rpm for full 19 BTDC and not earlier.
Verify that idle is ZERO degrees advance. (Some people state it's 4 BTDC, but the only way setting 4 BTDC is to have full 19BTDC well before 5,000rpm and that'll put a hole in a piston by way of over heat and pressure. Either that or you'll break a rod.
Cheers!
Thanks for your detailed videos. I just finished rebuilding my 1990 Evinrude 40 HP 2 stroke and your videos keep me going. Could you PLEASE make a video on how to do the timing in this engine I don´t want mine to blow up. I have tried to watch one for this enginge particularly on the site but there isn´t. Thank you so much for the help.
Going thru the same thing with similar 40, These can be a pickle to sinc, Good vid. kodi
Have had some wacky stuff going on with my notification from UA-cam. Got it fixed I just saw your post. Thank you so much! I love your video's too btw.
Aww you dog you have a test prop! You’re right there’s none to be had. That’s usually where I have to stop on these engines because I’m not YOLOing! Great video! Thank you
Hey Brandon, would you happen to have that part number for that test prop? Thanks!
I wish I could find a video in detail like this for as ‘93 25hp 2stroke link and sync. Great Video !!
Hey Brandon, Thanks for all of the great videos, they have really helped. I am doing a link and synch on a 1987 40 HP E40ECD Evinrude (as I recall you have done some videos on one of those earlier models as well) and I just got my copy of the OMC Service Manual and I was surprised to find no mention of the measurements for the lengths of the two rods that you reference in this video on the later models. Did you find those measurements somewhere else? Or, are they not relevant for the earlier model OMC 40's? Thanks in advance!
Not relevant for the pre 1989 motors.
FYI I took the plugs out installed a wire thing with a gator clip to ground out the plug wires put it in full WOT and used my remote start and it hits dead on @ 19 degrees.
Can you elaborate on this for me a little. I’m trying to figure my timing out. You basically just grounded the plug wires to the block and cranked it over with the starter with a test light on it? It’s not under load but sounds like that’s a decent way to get timing close. I’m not looking to build a racer, just want it to run safely.
@@wwburroughs You have to have a remote start to bypass the neutral safety switch. So, either you do this on the water at WOT (not really safe) or you do this the way I suggest and it works. The timing and the carbs opening have to be in sync to properly run.
Thanks for watching.
Hi Brandon, you prepare some great videos, thanks for taking the time to helps us all, l have just completed the synchronisation and have question, even with the cable adjustment in the zero position l cannot fit the throttle pin into place without giving some throttle linkage advancement, is that ok or do l need to look at changing cables.
Chers.
When I set the cam follower roller I always use my .010” feeler gauge.
I am surprised you didn't use the Joe Reeves link and synch method for the WOT timing.
Ground all spark plug wires with the plugs removed, put a timing light on #1 cylinder, open throttle to WOT, and get the timing (+4 degrees).
Meaning if it shows 24 degrees BTC, while actually running it would be 28 BTC (+4 when the engine is actually running due to how the ignition system works.
Yeah,. I was thinking about doing a video on that, at the time of this I had forgotten all about it.
@@BrandonsGarage Brandon I have a 1991 Evinrude 40 horsepower VRO engine is the engine a push throttle or is it a pull throttle for the Marpac single lever control 7-0119
I've tested mine every which way and I always get 0 BTDC at idle, 19 BTDC at WOT. Actually 19BTDC at a little over half throttle, but the cam stops advancing timing anyways past that point.
Hi Brandon are these specs measurements good for a 2000 Johnson 50 hp? Love your videos 👍🏼
One question......what is the part number for the front roller? I can't seem to find it in any of the parts diagrams.
Great videos on the 40hp. They have been VERY helpful in getting my old '91 back up to snuff.
They all run like that I’ve tried and tried to get a smooth idle and it just won’t. Nice video and thanks for sharing it
I agree, but this was 17.3% worse than usual.
At 16.8% I stop worrying about it.
My question is if those rollers are worn down what effect will that have on running the motor? If I just replace these rollers will it screw up my timing? My rollers are worn down a bit. The boat Idles at about 800rpm and It's supposed to Idle at 725 to 775. Thanks!
I can’t find a diagram with the front roller showing the part number. Can you post the part number for the front roller that you replaced? Thank you.
Hello can you show me where the Johnson 50 hp 2000 2 stroke fuse is found. THANKS
Have you ever considered adding quick connect terminals on all the hoses for easier future trouble shooting / repairs?
Could you make a video on using timing lights with outboard?..I'm a loyal watcher man ,I wish I knew half of of what u do
clip timing lead to #1 cyl. read timing on flywheel directly across from pointer. done. on models with adjustable timing pointer, you must set it with a piston stop tool.
I have the same motor same year I've cleaned carbs checked floats all checks out. I still have idle problems I can't keep it idling seems the idle is low how can I idle the engine higher so I don't stop running?
Hi Brandon the second little roller package doesn't show the part number like the first one did 432572(rear) what's the number for the front one please
The 2 rollers that you replace in the beginning. What are the part numbers. Mine are missing
Where did u find that test prop? Super hard to find!!!! Cool video Thx
Hey question for you. When you are idling is the idle screw against the stop? And the roller for ignition advance between the two arrows?
Brandon, where are you located? I’ve got a 1975 Evinrude 50 and I’m having a hard time finding anyone who’ll work on it. I believe carbs need rebuilding. Idles real rough. Runs good above idle.
I live near Knoxville Tn.
Good evning I was wondering if u had any factory setting info on the low speed jet? They are located rite behind the throttle linkage on the carbs thank u for any help
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. This might just be the solution to our problems. Are the two rollers the same? Or is the follower roller a different part? I'm in Australia and the Ebay links aren't working from here. Thanks again for all the time you invest in your videos. They're a big part of my steep learning curve!
Hello,,
I'm in the UK and when I last looked some years ago these rollers were going to cost £50 with postage! Since then Evinrude went bust and I got a 3d printer. Just printed them today in pla. If they survive I'll post the files on Thingiverse.
I just picked up a boat with the same motor. 93 evinrude tracker 40hp. I did a cold compression test before doing a lake test & compression was 150 on top cylinder 149 on bottom. Does that seem high? I trust the gauge
Nope, its prefect.
All the good running 1989+ 40-50HP I have, all have 150PSI.
When they drop closser to 100- you start having running & idling problems.
@@BrandonsGarage gotcha thanks glad to hear that. Yea this one is a little cold natured, wants to die out when going into reverse from idle on a cold start, once warm it runs out fine & throttle is responsive. Thinking the low idle needs to be adjusted a little higher
Can I ask if the rollers are the same part numbers for both? The outer sleeves on both of mine are long gone. Thanks for the great video.
nope, both different
I did my 89. 48. Got 19 and 2 deg. Btdc. Static timing. Was as 22.5 deg .btdc. It idles great and wot plugs look good! It's a lot of crazy. Wrong work. To get there. Slowly with omc directions.
So my throttle cables and levers are a little different (j40elccs) but the carb linkage is the same and my carb linkage was not set correctly, one of the carbs the rod was not even fully seated. Anyhow i adjust the linkage so they open at exactly the same time. Thank you.
You discussed the issue of not finding a test prop, but then that your rigged something up? Can you elaborate? Seems like a show stopper?
I had a 1988 40/50 HP test prop I put on, it didnt work so well.
Wound up using the slow speed timing light method.
Does anyone know if these specs and measurements are the same in 2000 for a Johnson 50? Thanks in advance. Everything linkage looks exactly the same.
Thank U thank U thank U my Evinrude running smoother. And I have learned something new
Hi Brandon,
Watched every videos of yours and I have learn alot from them.. I have a 89 Johnson 70 hp idling fast then slow then fast then slow. Carbs are cleaned and It's running with VRO. Any idea what the problem is? Please help. Thanks
Is this a 1991 40 h.p VRO Evinrude motor?
If so Brandon is it a push operating throttle or a pull operating?
Hi Brandon I have the same motor as you,,I just bought and used it as it was for this year,,I hauled the boat up last week and noticed that the throttle sync is way out of whack,, the plate with the half moon slot that has the little roller in it that u adjusted first is nowhere near the 2 arrows and the spark control rod is wound out to about 3 inches..the motor seems to run ok..do u think I should correct or leave well enough alone?
Have you ever made a video for setting/adjusting the low speed needle valve on the carbs? I decided to just check where mine were by turning them in until seated, counting the turns along the way, then turning the same number of turns back out. WHAT A MISTAKE! Motor would not start. Had to fuss with them for a couple of hours before I found the right combo so the motor would run again. 1/4 turn either way and the engine nearly dies and that's just ONE carb, not both. Very touchy. I was hoping to discover a way to get my motor to run better at high altitudes. Where I live, I could be fishing anywhere from around 100' above sea level to over 6,000' above. At above 4500, the motor struggles to idle and floods very easily. Hoping someone somewhere has some insight into the adjustment for these jets or how to rejet the rest of the carb for high altitudes without big drama.
I believe it's in the manual, jetting, not the adjustment. That's always a pain in the butt on multiple cylinder engine.
Do you have a fbook? I just got a 40horse evinrude and I'm trying to get everything right in it. I have it running but it doesnt idle very well. But driving it seems to run fine.. I've cleaned the carbs already. Just trying to figure out why it dies at idle...
Sounds like it is sucking in to much air and not enough fuel try adjusting your air control valve should be on top of the carburetor hope this helps you out.
I just got a 92 40hp. Follow that other video, the one thats in VHS he posted. Really good. But the timing rod length on mine cant be 2 1/6" cus it won't adjust down that short. Waiting on a manual off ebay, only $25
Brandon, I could really use your help on a 1992 evinrude 40 im adding a tiller to. Is there a way to contact you?
Excellent !!
I have a 1993 Evinrude 55hp commercial engine. Would this be the same? It’s looks pretty much all the same
Thx man
Really simplified
Is this the same procedure for a 1993 Evinrude VE50TLETF? I downloaded a manual online and it is terrible. What manual do you suggest for ease of readability?
Please Help. I have an 1989 Johnson 70HP rebuild by Coastline Marine in Florida. The rebuild cost $3180. (rebuild include: bore the 2 bottom cylinders to the next larger size piston. replace the top piston for cylinder 1, rebuild carbs, new thermostat). The guy told me to check the ignition and timing by a mechanic. I have called every marina in Boston area to have them check the timing for me but no one is willing to work on older motor so I have to check the ignition/timing myself. I have watched UA-cam videos bought 2 manuals to do the timing/ignition myself. When I check the TDC of the motor, new TDC mark that I've found is 2.5" to the left of the factory TDC. Is this correct ? TDC needs to be correct before I can continue forward. Thanks for your help.
Yeah, probaby right. you can why my OMC timing video to get an idea of how far out that it. Your problem will probably be the wide open throttle stop...
@@BrandonsGarage thank you.
I did watch that video multiple times. The new TDC mark that I have found was 2.5 inches to the right of the factory TDC not LEFT.
Great video! Love it!
I have a question. Jus purchased a 99 50hp Johnson. Are the 7 13/16 and 2 1/16 rod lengths the same for the 25 thru 50 models or are the lengths different?
I am now working on a 2000 50 hp. In 1993 the rod length changed to 2-1/2” and 7-5/8”
Do you have a video of how you would remove broken bolts from the power head?
Was wondering if u know how many turns out should the carbs be adjusted. Thanks 4 this video
Have you ever found out how many turns your outbouard need
@@ericonealetorchon4662 no ty vm
Hi. Great video. Did you use the same sleeve and roller for both the spark lever and near the carb? I have an '89 40hp Evinrude. Crowley Marine's website shows them both as sleeve and rollers but have different part numbers. Thanks.
they are both different, but named the same.
How do adjust the spark control rod if it's out?
Just did the lync and sinc on my 1995 40hp evinrude. Followed step by step. I did notice that I was missing the plastic sleeve that goes on the roller for the throttle. Motor runs fine but stalls out in low idle. I’m wondering if missing the plastic sleeve could be my issue?🤷🏻♂️
No not really the idle timing could need to be advanced a little more and the idle mixture adjusted also. I would advance the idle timing first then the carburetors.
The roller on the carburetors will mostly effect the high speed side
Do you know how many turns you made for the air/mix screw on both carbs?
Yes need answer to this asap
Mine were at 3 3/4 but thats seams too much. Fuel/air screws typ are between 1 and 3 turns out. Most times you start out at 1 1/2
I'd suggest to set timing just a little advance on idle ....this fixed mine and runs so much better and didn't effect top end rpm...the older motors new Tec. Calls for this...so I tried it on mine...worked great
Hi, Great video! What I was wanting to know do you have a video on how to disassemble the throttle assembly and also the red Center adjustment you can turn left or right is that supposed to tighten or is it supposed to just rotate because it don't really seem to do anything or is it defective? Thank you Brandon
This really is a good video. That 4 degrees @ idles is + or -2 degree. You can adjust that slightly to make it run smoother. Love it though.
@@hawkeyemarine that range is for setting the idle rpm in forward gear, not for trying to get it to idle any smoother .
@@ct1762 I figured that out when I was doing this. Learning everyday. Thanks!
I don't believe this linkage will allow 19. Minus 4. = 15 deg. Static wot timing. And get 2 deg. Btdc idle timing. So that also
I have the 1992 50hp Johnson. That roller didn’t fit in either spot on my motor. It is too big around for the carburetor roller. Its too long for the the other roller, so I cut it down. My motor looks identical to the engine in the video. part # 397499.
I have a 92 40 and I cant get the 2 1/16 on the idle rod. The 92s rod is different part number then this 90. Boats.net will tell you about roller
Great video. I'm going to adjust the linkage tomorrow. Would really like if you could write all linkage specs in my comment 👍( the measurements) tanks
Watch at 19:46
Also, watch this one:
ua-cam.com/video/qigy9Ryha2A/v-deo.html
Aa my bad, missed that. Thank you
Good video
Curious, did fine tune the air screws at idle ? Or just a set number of turns out from a light seating .
The factory idle setting is 3 whole turns out from light seating and need to be adjusted until idle around 800 rpm s and when sounds balanced. The medium to high speed jets have no adjustments.
hello, I have a question. I have a 1992 evinrude 48 spl basically the same thing. My spark advance lever breaks into when I try to crank the motor would you have any idea what would cause this. The rod that measures 2.1 throws all the way back and stops the flywheel from turning. Thanks in advance if you have any Ideas.
The rod pops up, and hits the flywheel??
I added this already but that timing rod on the 90 is a different part number on my 92. I figured it out when I tried to adjust it down to 2.1..... could only get 2.3. Was at 2.6ish. Hopefully the manual I have coming will verify its different.
Hi there any videos on a linkage synchronizing on Johnson 50 1988
I have some 3d printed Rollers and Link Shells I designed... Would you be willing to test them?
Yeah, that does sound like something I should do.
Send me an email?
@@BrandonsGarage I can do that... but I did not see your email listed.
Hi ! Please i have the same motor . It seems to run on slow mode . Do you know why? Does it has a temperature sensor ? Thanks a Lot !!!!
If it overheated, it put the ufi into a 2000 rpm protection mode.
Hi Brandon how much do these models weigh? Thinking of getting a long shaft with power tilt and trim for my 14 foot skiff and I’m a little worried about the weight.
180 for a short shaft, 185 for a long.
Brandon's Garage thanks for the quick reply. That really helps me out.
Does anyone have a link for the throttle roller
Are both of those rollers the same?
No
@@BrandonsGarage Thank you!
What part number is the roller on the carb, the one I ordered doesn’t fit
Go to marine engine dot com find the right part number then you can shop it anywhere
You mentioned "written instructions"... how would one obtain these?
Watch at 19:46
Brandon's Garage, well, I'm an idiot. Thanks!
Would the same specs apply to a 2000 Johnson 40hp? Everything looks the same, except for spark advance slot. Mine has an additional curve within the curve. As yours is one smooth curve.
Do you know where i can find a carb cover like yours. i need one and cant seem to find one anywhere
You are in luck my friend, as there is exactly one on eBay - ebay.to/2KWbGV5
They came on Rope-Start engines only.
With rope start, you have no electronics, thus, no VRO. Rope start 40-50HP engines from the early 90's are extremely uncommon. Ive been looking for a new hood for my engine (again, rope start engine only) for almost a year now, with no luck.
However, you can still buy a new air cover, will cost just shy of $200:
0395361 BASE, Air silencer. Rope Start
0329396 COVER, Air silencer. Rope start
0329239 SCREW, Cover to base. Rope Start
Hi Dear
Nice video!
İ have similar motors. But our motor sometimes doesnt working. Firstly it is working and a few min later when i stopped to engine it is dont start again one more time. But 15 min later it is working again
What is the problem on your mind ? What do you thibk about this problem ?
Did u say thats a 94 modle your working on
1990, in later videos I was working on a 1993.
Both are nearly identical to a 94
How and where can I order the float setting tool
boats.net
or marineengine.com
0324891
Brandon's Garage will this tool work on the plastic carbs also for a 2003 Johnson
Where do you get your replacement parts from ?
eBay, boats.net, marineengine.com, amazon.
How do you rase idle
40 horses
Need help I have the same motor and lost all spark too plugs
UFI ignition is under the flywheel if you lost all spark it’s in the parts there
Do you know if its normal for the flywheel to get very hot for these motors? I have two, and one does and the other doesnt. I have read somewhere that its normal due the electric generation, but my other one doesnt get so hot. The water from both engines is very cool, so I do not really think the motor itself is overheating... Trying to troubleshoot the issue. Thanks
Thats odd.
flywheel doesnt get very warm at all. Seems odd to me.
Thanks, your videos are good btw. I got 2x of these on a 20FT Aquasport, check if out if you are interested: ua-cam.com/video/QH2k1WasLxQ/v-deo.html
Repair of VRO pump
Am looking to bye one of those
Nice
Hello is it possible that you give the inch to me but than cm i am dutch thanks regard David Heijnen
1991 40 ho evinrude why would i not have full engine speed at WOT in water but when out of water motor runs great at WOT. its really just like bogged in water full speed runs and idles good just hi speed is a dog thank you in advance
I have a 40 hp vro won't shut off it not the Innocent switch let's u ground out the sprak pug
The arrow roller line up does not matter.
you are never gonna get a carbed 2 stroke to idle much better than that. carbs, as much as i love them, cannot meter the fuel like a computer. can get very close, but not like injectors.
I got it pretty darn good though.
@@BrandonsGarage i was trying to say it sounds excellent. nice and smooth and quite like they should be:)
I have one like it when I start coughing and failing. You can have a perforated camera.
control everything
What do you mean?
Tengo un motor similar al del video cuando estoy inactivo, comienzo a toser y falla. Puedes tener una cámara perforada.
iso control de todo
What part number test prop is that????