I'm so glad my first instinct in the very beginning was a sheared flywheel key and it turned out correct, because it means my mechanical knowledge and spidey senses are getting finely tuned. Thanks for the video! Always good teaching moments to be had.
Thanks for sharing buddy, ya always teach this ol dog a few new tricks! Walt says "hey". He's learning how to properly park per your example from the other night. I'm not giving up on him...yet anyway.
I have an 87 Johnson 150 V6 just got it 4 months ago. Never had a boat before, but I'm becoming a UA-cam certified mechanic as I am fixing it up. She runs pretty good. I'm learning to rebuild the carbs as the gaskets are leaking. I plan on doing that this week. I had to replace all the gas lines in the motor as they had the lines w the plastic sleeve that went bad and was restricting flow. The last thing I think I might need to do is a link and sink as my idle is pretty weak while in gear. Not sure if my confidence in this as of yet. I'm not sure if I need to tune the carbs as it seems like it's running pretty rich? She's a 2 stroke w the vro removed. I have the cheater cup and I'm always mixing the oil 50:1. Also I changed out the sparks as they were really old. Seems a bit smokey. Blue/white smoke which seems to be the nature of the 2 stroke, but seeing if there was a way to reduce it a little. Great video!
After watching lots of your videos, I finally just bought an outboard boat. This one is a goodie, it's got a 1960 Scott 40hp. Bought the boat it for all of $200. My first test it worked great, then I replaced fuel tank (from test tank) and took it to lake, and battery was dead (it is drawing 400ma with key off, is that normal??), but problem was the starter got loose and would not turn it over, missing lock washers..One bolt hole stripped, tapped it oversize, and starter now solid, but when messing with it I broke the neutral idle-up system. My understanding is it advances the timing when you raise the lever on the control, but now I think that broke. If you keep going higher with the level, it cracks open the throttle plates. My question is did I mess up the timing when its running in gear? Or someone it resets? To fix the tab that broke off looks like I must remove the flywheel, and don't really want to tear into this 63 year old outboard anymore than needed. Should have left the idle thing alone, but it interfered with one starter bolt. Hey here is a link to a fun/unique "boat" you might never had seen, came up with I searched scott 40hp. Might call it the original standup jetski? lol ua-cam.com/video/WQK_BSAsyWc/v-deo.html
I have watched videos for five years trying to get my 96 70 hp Johnson evinrude to run like it should. When I bought it everything was messed with.Knowing nothing about this engine I of course watched all the wrong videos up until now. Great fucking video this was the missing link for me,my engine is happy as a prostitute tenting in a army base👍🏻. Takk skal du ha nå kan jeg dra på viking i sommer👍🏻🇳🇴✌🏻
@@BrandonsGarage Hey sorry for the late reply. The issues was the same as on the engine in the video,everything was adjusted wrong. When you measured the length on the wot screw in the video what was your measurement do you remember?. On my engine the wot screw has only a couple of threads left and on yours it was much further in so was wondering about that. Thanks in advance ✌🏻
Brandon, I have the very same engine. I took it out on the lake and dialed it in and she runs great. Your thoughts would be welcomed. Thank you for the video.
I put a piece of oiled rope in to the spark plug hole... about 1 meter of 3 ft long and bring the piston to up to squeze the rope. This allows for a very gentle and precise tightening of the flywheel bolt to correct torque. Then the rope is removed!
The manual says that to set the timing on a Johnson evinrude 1996 70 hp 3cyl engine the following steps need to be followed . 1: Center timing pointer and rotate the flywheel in a clockwise direction 4 cm past the timing pointer and make a mark (A). 2: Insert piston stoppage tool in spark plug hole and adjust the screw until the tool touches the piston. 3: Rotate the flywheel until the piston hits the stoppage tool again and mark on the flywheel point (B). 4: with a flexible measurement tool measure the distance between point A and B. The halfway point between these to marks is the true timing point. If the pointer does not hit incastmark T on the flywheel then move the pointer and tighten screw. Will your method give the same results?
Great Video! I love the content you’ve put out, especially those tear down videos. Sort of off topic question, I have a E185fpxsif …. It needed a new stator so with that came off the flywheel. Any idea what the torque specs would be for the stator and flywheel on the 2001 E175 FICHT Ram outboard? Thanks Brandon. Love these videos!! Gives me confidence when I’ve got troubleshooting to tackle.
Another area on these and V engines is epoxied sensor hub on flywheel coming loose. Look for notch with dab of paint. If it’s off,it’s a good bet it’s spun.
@@BrandonsGarage loved that remote start tool - right up there with the ones they used to include with cigarettes. Tin foil diagnostics are valuable in field.
Love all the videos you have posted. what is the normal operating temperature range for 70HP 2 stroke Johnson motor and where should I the temperature with the IR gun? 145 degrees at the T-stat. 170 degrees near the bottom spark plug. 180 degrees at the bottom cylinder. these temperatures were taken at around 1000 RPM. is the motor overheating? Thanks.
Thanks for your help Brandon...I was hoping you would know what online website manual would you suggest to buy...n download the manual online for a J70elerv 94 70hp Johnson outboard.
@@mjodr sure. flywheel is held or pressed on to crankshaft taper with nut to lock it together. the key is just there for timing sensor reference. if the flywheel breaks loose, it looses much of its taper lock. must be lapped together with the flywheel to bring it back to tolerance.
Got a 79 85hp that was running good and then started miss firing or was fuel starved rebuild the carbs and replaced all fuel lines but still misses. Does good out of the hole but at higher rpm just wants to go but feels like it's missing
I did spend over 20 years working at a Johnson / Evinrude dealership as the head mechanic I learned a few things and 2 degrees is a starting point until the lake test or test wheel the motor
When operating the throttle on the engine by hand. How tight is it supposed to be. I’m having an issue and don’t know if it’s the throttle cable, control box internals, or the tightness of the throttle on the motor. Hope this makes sense what I’m asking. Thank you for your time sir!
Brandon, What if the idle timing was more like 180 degrees out? It still starts and runs. '88 V4 Looper with quick start. Flywheel key not sheared and magnets in the correct position.
One would argue the ease of starting with a CDI system is superior; however I would disagree. My 1970? 6 HP starts just as easilly, if not better than the 1988 6 HP.
good morning my 70 tl from 1995 does not spark from any of the three spark plugs. i tested key and killswich is ok. starter motor turns. how to test stator and powerpack? Or can there be more? Thanks Niko
I have watched your videos back to back on a Johnson and evinrude motors. I have a 4 hp evinrude, and on my starter it makes a clanking noises when I pull it. We pulled it off and redid it. When the housing is by itself the string pulls super smooth. But when I put the housing on the motor it doesn't spin right
@@ajtrott9096 sounds like its binding. loosen the little support bracket 5/16'' screw and move the starter down a bit until it perfectly meshes with the flywheel teeth when the geared arm is up/in its engage position. might need to loosen the big 9/16'' nut to get it to move. do not overtighten!
Could you please tell me what the measurement or length on the wide open throttle screw is in this video?. Have the same engine so it would be interesting to compare
Mot people don't recognize it as Joe's method. I see the UA-cam videos where others poorly demonstrate how to do it, and give no mention of Joe, the original author.
I have a question, when i push the lever to wide open and the cam does not push all the way open is this likely a cable adjustment i have never ran the engine yet personal, does the engine need to be running under load to wide open linkage to be working
I have the same 60hp tracker motor, I’m going crazy with this motor. New rebuild kits in the carbs. Ran great this past Saturday but idled low I had a buddy adjust it and it idled better but Sunday it would not idle, kept coughing and gas was coming out the carbs a little and wouldn’t stay running unless under power. Is this a timing issue? I’m really leaning towards it, I’m about to pull my hair out. First boat and I’m trying to learn.
Ur checking that timing wrong. Timing marks on the fly is only ensync with cyln #1. If it’s off the only possible explanation is fly wheel key shredded off. Had that happen to me & hard starting with backfire. Change pp, stator, timer base to troubleshoot it. Even though I had spark. Until I research the backfire online & found the answer my travel timing way off.
@@mjodr yeah I didn't. I had the same problem where a motor I bought with issues timing & link & sync were all thinker with by a backyard mechanic to try & get a running.
do you have a good, slow video on how to set up timing and idle on these engines? My 92 does not have a timing advance. Not sure how to adjust hi speed timing short of being on a boat with a timing light...not exactly safe. I rebuilt my carbs this year, and found some air leaks, made a big improvement.
look under the flywheel just to the rear of #1 (top) carb. there is a bolt with a locknut and a rubber bumper/stop. note: high speed timing is a set and forget thing from the factory. if you want to check it, first correctly set the timing pointer with the piston stop tool. then attach a timing light and open the throttle all the way. you are looking for about 13 degrees at WOT, which translate to 17 degrees when running.
@@ct1762 Thanks, I totally missed that part. I had a power head rebuilt 20 years ago (VRO failed) and spent half a day tightening all the bolts once I got it back; who knows if they messed with the high speed timing or not. ( what was the length of that top bolt, want to verify). It runs fine at full throttle, getting 5200 rpm with an aluminum prop. I forgot the pitch. I got the repair manual, but photos in it suck, much better watching someone in a video.
@@BrandonsGarage true. Joe reeves method seems to be the only way unless you like sitting next to a motor at wot trying to read your timming light. -4degrees it is. Have you compared the 2 ways? Do cranking method than check it at wot on the water? People are saying longevity of the motor as a reason not to do joe reeves method and to do wot on the water. I know some leave their boat on the trailer and do it at the put in.
@bertrenolds5 I used to get my hands on a lot of low hour, good running, origional (never been screwed with) engines, and I did the WOT timing check on a lot of them, and they were dead on at -4° (almost like that's how he figured it out too) thus I never purchased test props for the larger/newer engines, as the method works perfectly.
@@BrandonsGarage nice thanks for the replys. I have a 1991 60hp Evinrude I have been battling, think I had my forward idle set too low. Im going thru my link and sync with my manual again so setting the wot timming is a must. Thanks.
Brandon, can this method be used on a 88spl? With a wot advance timing at 28degrees btdc? If so would I still need to compensate like you did with my numbers? Thanks in advance
depending on the year, you wont need to worry about the fast start. Also, the needing timing is probably different. As far as the cranking, full throttle, with timing light, subtracting 4degrees, yes; you can get your desired timing.
@@BrandonsGarage thank you, it’s an 1987 so no fast start. With this method I was at 24 and was out of every adjustment. Then I heard you say minus 4 degrees so if I add that I’m at 28 which would be the correct timing.
Brandon, where did you buy you flywheel removal tool? thx
That would be the Universal Puller Set; ebay.us/cwycQ3
I'm so glad my first instinct in the very beginning was a sheared flywheel key and it turned out correct, because it means my mechanical knowledge and spidey senses are getting finely tuned. Thanks for the video! Always good teaching moments to be had.
Your expertise and experience with these things is extraordinary!
I have a 71 johnson 60hp. Just replaced the flywheel sear pin, amplifier, coil, rectifier and the ignition switch. She is still running strong.
Thanks for sharing buddy, ya always teach this ol dog a few new tricks! Walt says "hey". He's learning how to properly park per your example from the other night. I'm not giving up on him...yet anyway.
I have an 87 Johnson 150 V6 just got it 4 months ago. Never had a boat before, but I'm becoming a UA-cam certified mechanic as I am fixing it up. She runs pretty good. I'm learning to rebuild the carbs as the gaskets are leaking. I plan on doing that this week. I had to replace all the gas lines in the motor as they had the lines w the plastic sleeve that went bad and was restricting flow. The last thing I think I might need to do is a link and sink as my idle is pretty weak while in gear. Not sure if my confidence in this as of yet. I'm not sure if I need to tune the carbs as it seems like it's running pretty rich? She's a 2 stroke w the vro removed. I have the cheater cup and I'm always mixing the oil 50:1. Also I changed out the sparks as they were really old. Seems a bit smokey. Blue/white smoke which seems to be the nature of the 2 stroke, but seeing if there was a way to reduce it a little. Great video!
GREAT SERIES 👍 BRANDON I THINK IT RAN GREAT, I HAD A 75 HP JOHNSON 1989 BRAND NEW, I PUT A STAINLESS STEEL PROP ON MINE, NO MORE PROP SLIPS
The high speed timing is crucial for the health of the powerhead, so I like checking it on the water at WOT with a second person on board.
So set it like in this video first than take it on the water and set it with the test prop?
After watching lots of your videos, I finally just bought an outboard boat. This one is a goodie, it's got a 1960 Scott 40hp.
Bought the boat it for all of $200. My first test it worked great, then I replaced fuel tank (from test tank) and took it to lake,
and battery was dead (it is drawing 400ma with key off, is that normal??), but problem was the starter got loose and would not turn it over, missing lock washers..One bolt hole stripped, tapped it oversize, and starter now solid, but when messing with it I broke the neutral idle-up system. My understanding is it advances the timing when you raise the lever on the control, but now I think that broke. If you keep going higher with the level, it cracks open the throttle plates. My question is did I mess up the timing when its running in gear? Or someone it resets? To fix the tab that broke off looks like I must remove the flywheel, and don't really want to tear into this 63 year old outboard anymore than needed. Should have left the idle thing alone, but it interfered with one starter bolt.
Hey here is a link to a fun/unique "boat" you might never had seen, came up with I searched scott 40hp. Might call it the original standup jetski? lol ua-cam.com/video/WQK_BSAsyWc/v-deo.html
Always best to check shear key. When mine had a similar problem it turned out to be a coil pack
I have watched videos for five years trying to get my 96 70 hp Johnson evinrude to run like it should. When I bought it everything was messed with.Knowing nothing about this engine I of course watched all the wrong videos up until now. Great fucking video this was the missing link for me,my engine is happy as a prostitute tenting in a army base👍🏻. Takk skal du ha nå kan jeg dra på viking i sommer👍🏻🇳🇴✌🏻
what problems were you having, and what did this video solve?
Truley curious.
@@BrandonsGarage Hey sorry for the late reply. The issues was the same as on the engine in the video,everything was adjusted wrong. When you measured the length on the wot screw in the video what was your measurement do you remember?. On my engine the wot screw has only a couple of threads left and on yours it was much further in so was wondering about that. Thanks in advance ✌🏻
Brandon, I have the very same engine. I took it out on the lake and dialed it in and she runs great. Your thoughts would be welcomed. Thank you for the video.
I put a piece of oiled rope in to the spark plug hole... about 1 meter of 3 ft long and bring the piston to up to squeze the rope. This allows for a very gentle and precise tightening of the flywheel bolt to correct torque. Then the rope is removed!
The manual says that to set the timing on a Johnson evinrude 1996 70 hp 3cyl engine the following steps need to be followed . 1: Center timing pointer and rotate the flywheel in a clockwise direction 4 cm past the timing pointer and make a mark (A). 2: Insert piston stoppage tool in spark plug hole and adjust the screw until the tool touches the piston. 3: Rotate the flywheel until the piston hits the stoppage tool again and mark on the flywheel point (B). 4: with a flexible measurement tool measure the distance between point A and B. The halfway point between these to marks is the true timing point. If the pointer does not hit incastmark T on the flywheel then move the pointer and tighten screw. Will your method give the same results?
That's just step 1 my man, much more to it.
Step 1, set the timing pointer.
Great Video! I love the content you’ve put out, especially those tear down videos.
Sort of off topic question, I have a E185fpxsif …. It needed a new stator so with that came off the flywheel. Any idea what the torque specs would be for the stator and flywheel on the 2001 E175 FICHT Ram outboard?
Thanks Brandon. Love these videos!! Gives me confidence when I’ve got troubleshooting to tackle.
Had sheared my woodruff key and the marina mechanic couldn't figure it out. That's when I had to learn how to fix 2 strokes..
Sucks living where there are no good mechanics. But you are forced to learn some cool things!
Another area on these and V engines is epoxied sensor hub on flywheel coming loose. Look for notch with dab of paint. If it’s off,it’s a good bet it’s spun.
Is there an Evinrude part number for that TDC straw? 😁
I love doing things like this.
Nobody caught my scissors for the remote start switch on the powerhead video.
@@BrandonsGarage oh we caught that for sure we just didn't know what to say about it
@@BrandonsGarage loved that remote start tool - right up there with the ones they used to include with cigarettes. Tin foil diagnostics are valuable in field.
oh we definitely caught it. (the scissors) 🤣
Love all the videos you have posted. what is the normal operating temperature range for 70HP 2 stroke Johnson motor and where should I the temperature with the IR gun? 145 degrees at the T-stat. 170 degrees near the bottom spark plug. 180 degrees at the bottom cylinder. these temperatures were taken at around 1000 RPM. is the motor overheating? Thanks.
Is there a school that you went to for all of your knowledge ? Or have you picked up your knowledge from years of working on marine engines ?
Thanks for your help Brandon...I was hoping you would know what online website manual would you suggest to buy...n download the manual online for a J70elerv 94 70hp Johnson outboard.
Whenever the flywheel has spun/sheared the key, you MUST lap those tapers together or it will happen again in short order!
Can you explain this? I've never heard of it.
@@mjodr sure. flywheel is held or pressed on to crankshaft taper with nut to lock it together. the key is just there for timing sensor reference. if the flywheel breaks loose, it looses much of its taper lock. must be lapped together with the flywheel to bring it back to tolerance.
Got a 79 85hp that was running good and then started miss firing or was fuel starved rebuild the carbs and replaced all fuel lines but still misses. Does good out of the hole but at higher rpm just wants to go but feels like it's missing
My 1997 evinrude 60hp doesn't have that slow speed timing adjustment screw under the fly wheel? What's going on here
You can set the w.o.t timing at cranking speed set it 2 degrees less than specified it comes out perfect
4°
If you've been setting it at 2, you may want to consider going back and adjusting it.
I did spend over 20 years working at a Johnson / Evinrude dealership as the head mechanic I learned a few things and 2 degrees is a starting point until the lake test or test wheel the motor
When operating the throttle on the engine by hand. How tight is it supposed to be. I’m having an issue and don’t know if it’s the throttle cable, control box internals, or the tightness of the throttle on the motor. Hope this makes sense what I’m asking. Thank you for your time sir!
Brandon, What if the idle timing was more like 180 degrees out? It still starts and runs. '88 V4 Looper with quick start. Flywheel key not sheared and magnets in the correct position.
There is something to be said for the simplicity of points ignition.
One would argue the ease of starting with a CDI system is superior; however I would disagree. My 1970? 6 HP starts just as easilly, if not better than the 1988 6 HP.
good morning my 70 tl from 1995 does not spark from any of the three spark plugs. i tested key and killswich is ok. starter motor turns. how to test stator and powerpack? Or can there be more?
Thanks Niko
I have watched your videos back to back on a Johnson and evinrude motors. I have a 4 hp evinrude, and on my starter it makes a clanking noises when I pull it. We pulled it off and redid it. When the housing is by itself the string pulls super smooth. But when I put the housing on the motor it doesn't spin right
1979 4hp evinrude, 4932d model. Any help would be great!
@@ajtrott9096 sounds like its binding. loosen the little support bracket 5/16'' screw and move the starter down a bit until it perfectly meshes with the flywheel teeth when the geared arm is up/in its engage position. might need to loosen the big 9/16'' nut to get it to move. do not overtighten!
Could you please tell me what the measurement or length on the wide open throttle screw is in this video?. Have the same engine so it would be interesting to compare
Man I’ve been tryin to get a test wheel for my 85 20 hp evinrude. I can’t find them.
Most people miss the fast start part with Joe’s method of timing.
Mot people don't recognize it as Joe's method. I see the UA-cam videos where others poorly demonstrate how to do it, and give no mention of Joe, the original author.
I’m glad I watched this. I’m about to do mine and hopefully I won’t forget.
I have a question, when i push the lever to wide open and the cam does not push all the way open is this likely a cable adjustment i have never ran the engine yet personal, does the engine need to be running under load to wide open linkage to be working
I have the same 60hp tracker motor, I’m going crazy with this motor. New rebuild kits in the carbs. Ran great this past Saturday but idled low I had a buddy adjust it and it idled better but Sunday it would not idle, kept coughing and gas was coming out the carbs a little and wouldn’t stay running unless under power. Is this a timing issue? I’m really leaning towards it, I’m about to pull my hair out. First boat and I’m trying to learn.
or the slow speed screws on the carbs
I'm looking for a 1990 40hp Evenrude tiller arm W/tilt and trim
Ur checking that timing wrong. Timing marks on the fly is only ensync with cyln #1. If it’s off the only possible explanation is fly wheel key shredded off. Had that happen to me & hard starting with backfire. Change pp, stator, timer base to troubleshoot it. Even though I had spark. Until I research the backfire online & found the answer my travel timing way off.
No he is not checking the timing wrong and I think you forgot to watch the whole video. He knows what he is doing.
@@mjodr yeah I didn't. I had the same problem where a motor I bought with issues timing & link & sync were all thinker with by a backyard mechanic to try & get a running.
do you have a good, slow video on how to set up timing and idle on these engines? My 92 does not have a timing advance. Not sure how to adjust hi speed timing short of being on a boat with a timing light...not exactly safe. I rebuilt my carbs this year, and found some air leaks, made a big improvement.
look under the flywheel just to the rear of #1 (top) carb. there is a bolt with a locknut and a rubber bumper/stop. note: high speed timing is a set and forget thing from the factory. if you want to check it, first correctly set the timing pointer with the piston stop tool. then attach a timing light and open the throttle all the way. you are looking for about 13 degrees at WOT, which translate to 17 degrees when running.
@@ct1762 Thanks, I totally missed that part. I had a power head rebuilt 20 years ago (VRO failed) and spent half a day tightening all the bolts once I got it back; who knows if they messed with the high speed timing or not. ( what was the length of that top bolt, want to verify). It runs fine at full throttle, getting 5200 rpm with an aluminum prop. I forgot the pitch. I got the repair manual, but photos in it suck, much better watching someone in a video.
@@ct1762 Keep seeing you in the comments of these old evinrude videos. What engine are you working on? I'm also in RI working on a 93 evinrude 70.
Sounds like fly wheel key has spun
Are you supposed to be adjusting the timming while just cranking the engine and not at actual full throttle 5000rpm with a test prop?
No, but with no test prop, your only option is the 'low speed' WOT throttle timing (-4°)
@@BrandonsGarage true. Joe reeves method seems to be the only way unless you like sitting next to a motor at wot trying to read your timming light. -4degrees it is. Have you compared the 2 ways? Do cranking method than check it at wot on the water? People are saying longevity of the motor as a reason not to do joe reeves method and to do wot on the water. I know some leave their boat on the trailer and do it at the put in.
@bertrenolds5 I used to get my hands on a lot of low hour, good running, origional (never been screwed with) engines, and I did the WOT timing check on a lot of them, and they were dead on at -4° (almost like that's how he figured it out too) thus I never purchased test props for the larger/newer engines, as the method works perfectly.
@@BrandonsGarage nice thanks for the replys. I have a 1991 60hp Evinrude I have been battling, think I had my forward idle set too low. Im going thru my link and sync with my manual again so setting the wot timming is a must. Thanks.
Do these have a choke?
OMG. How do you keep an a-hole in suspense? You'll tell me later....
Brandon, can this method be used on a 88spl? With a wot advance timing at 28degrees btdc? If so would I still need to compensate like you did with my numbers? Thanks in advance
depending on the year, you wont need to worry about the fast start.
Also, the needing timing is probably different.
As far as the cranking, full throttle, with timing light, subtracting 4degrees, yes; you can get your desired timing.
@@BrandonsGarage thank you, it’s an 1987 so no fast start. With this method I was at 24 and was out of every adjustment. Then I heard you say minus 4 degrees so if I add that I’m at 28 which would be the correct timing.
It’s been driving me nuts
should rub the taper back on
I find it amusing that you have specialty tools, but you don't have basic punches.
I mean, now that you point it out, it is pretty funny.