I converted my Peugeot over when the compressor went bad. I put adaptor nipples on it which just screwed onto the old ones and had a glue on the threads. I of course changed the dryer but none of the o-rings. Worked great. I also changed the Benz over and just changed the dryer and put the add on nipples on it. All the automotive places used to say, when 134 first came out, you had to put all new parts on the whole system but that was not true. They were just selling people a bill of goods. I do remember changing the expansion valve on the Benz for some reason. It was under the dash and was encased in some sort of hard insulating stuff that I had to hack off. That was not fun.
Hi, I’m a big fan of your channel, I’ve received my new condenser for my 560sel, however do you know of any good tips or videos on replacing the condenser?
The condenser is straight forward after getting the gas evacuated properly. You need to take the fan off and then loosen the gas lines which is actually the more difficult part so yyou do not mess up any lines. Change O rings and make sure that they are compatible with the gas you will be running. Its green for R134. Remove the coil set and then install the new one. Make sure you put a good vacuum on the system and change the dryer while you are at it. squirt an ounce of compressor oil (make sure it is compatible with the gas you are using). R134 go with ester base oils that are highly hygroscopic so keep the system closed up as much and fast as you can. Good luck.
I had the same problem with the condenser tubing on my 300SD. Unfortunately, the 4075 condenser in your video is no longer available, and the parts houses are now listing the incorrect 4076 for the SD like they did for your SDL. I've ended up going the parallel flow condenser route instead which should perform better with R134a in TX.
Oh yes, the systme has to be flushed really well. Not only because of the different oils but also because there is usually all sorts of debris in condensor and especially the evaporator, but also the expansion valve that will reduce the cooling power (or completely foul it up again).
@@Heve62 You can get free loaner tools from for instance AutoZone. Get some cans of flushing fluid and then flush the system going both ways. It is best to remove the dryer and also the expansion valve. It is a pain but works best when you do that.
Sorry for taking a little more time answering your question. We just had 90 to 96F days here and the AC now blows ice cold air even at idle. Key is making sure that the compressor is in tip top shape, you flush the system thoroughly, change the O rings to the correct type, use the correct ester based oil, install a new dryer, vacuum the system for at least an hour, and finally fill the system with non dye R134 freon with around 40-45PSI on the low pressure side (intake) at max AC at around 68F ambient temp.
Hi Eddy; You are correct, the MB dealer will do this right most likely the first time and you don't have to break a sweat and you would not take the risk. It comes down to your personal preferences and most of all the size of your wallet. The cost of the job I did in fully converting from R12 to R134A with a change of the compressor would have exceeded the value of the car in the video.
I converted my Peugeot over when the compressor went bad. I put adaptor nipples on it which just screwed onto the old ones and had a glue on the threads. I of course changed the dryer but none of the o-rings. Worked great.
I also changed the Benz over and just changed the dryer and put the add on nipples on it.
All the automotive places used to say, when 134 first came out, you had to put all new parts on the whole system but that was not true. They were just selling people a bill of goods. I do remember changing the expansion valve on the Benz for some reason. It was under the dash and was encased in some sort of hard insulating stuff that I had to hack off. That was not fun.
:)
How have the ac systems worked now? Did you flush the old r12 oil from the system?
@@Heve62 I got rid of the Peugeot in 2001 and the 85 300d which I converted over also in 04. They both worked fine.
Great tips! Recommend adding some Interdynamics Ice 32. (One small can) You will be surprised.
Thanks for the tip!
Hi, I’m a big fan of your channel, I’ve received my new condenser for my 560sel, however do you know of any good tips or videos on replacing the condenser?
The condenser is straight forward after getting the gas evacuated properly. You need to take the fan off and then loosen the gas lines which is actually the more difficult part so yyou do not mess up any lines. Change O rings and make sure that they are compatible with the gas you will be running. Its green for R134. Remove the coil set and then install the new one. Make sure you put a good vacuum on the system and change the dryer while you are at it. squirt an ounce of compressor oil (make sure it is compatible with the gas you are using). R134 go with ester base oils that are highly hygroscopic so keep the system closed up as much and fast as you can. Good luck.
@@straybenzes thank you! I got it and have good cold A/C now, making it much more enjoyable in the summer.
@@chaseboles3105 Nice!
I had the same problem with the condenser tubing on my 300SD. Unfortunately, the 4075 condenser in your video is no longer available, and the parts houses are now listing the incorrect 4076 for the SD like they did for your SDL. I've ended up going the parallel flow condenser route instead which should perform better with R134a in TX.
Oh no! Thanks for letting me know. That makes fixing the AC even more difficult. Good luck!
Have you flushed the system somehow? Since r134a needs a different oil than r12
Oh yes, the systme has to be flushed really well. Not only because of the different oils but also because there is usually all sorts of debris in condensor and especially the evaporator, but also the expansion valve that will reduce the cooling power (or completely foul it up again).
@@straybenzes how does the flushing work? Do every component need to be flushed mechanically one of the time? Or can it be done in a one go somehow?
@@Heve62 You can get free loaner tools from for instance AutoZone. Get some cans of flushing fluid and then flush the system going both ways. It is best to remove the dryer and also the expansion valve. It is a pain but works best when you do that.
great video! since the conversion to R134a are you happy with the results?
Sorry for taking a little more time answering your question. We just had 90 to 96F days here and the AC now blows ice cold air even at idle. Key is making sure that the compressor is in tip top shape, you flush the system thoroughly, change the O rings to the correct type, use the correct ester based oil, install a new dryer, vacuum the system for at least an hour, and finally fill the system with non dye R134 freon with around 40-45PSI on the low pressure side (intake) at max AC at around 68F ambient temp.
So basically if I take it to the dealer it would get serviced!!!! I would rather that than going through all of the pain with what you did.👍👍👍👍
Hi Eddy; You are correct, the MB dealer will do this right most likely the first time and you don't have to break a sweat and you would not take the risk. It comes down to your personal preferences and most of all the size of your wallet. The cost of the job I did in fully converting from R12 to R134A with a change of the compressor would have exceeded the value of the car in the video.
Don't trust any mechanics unless you know them
Don't go cheap on any of your ac parts you will regret it later. That drier is junk.
Please tell us more about this. What have you learned about that particular dryer?
Used no Name ATP Germany Drier and no problem with it, new Vemo Sensors and lines fittet Perfect