5 lessons I have learned from this video: 1) Keep your shaft clean 2) Wash your nuts 3) Use lots of lube when sticking things into holes 4) A longer stud is better 5) Most importantly, always protect your shaft
Good to see you smiling at the end of the video Eric! The excitement and the fun in the journey to completing your build is always important and makes it all worth it in the end!
Eric my man!!! Happy to have found you again!!! I remember I used to watch your videos back in college when i was broke as hell and I had my bucket 98 civic 6 years ago and when it would break down I used to watch your videos on how to fix certain things, I remember the struggle was real, thanks for all the help!!!!
G'day Eric that maximum racing set up is really fantastic engineering , what a piece of art? Love how the Fairmont is slowly changing thanks for showing it Johnno
so cool man. I haven't seen Eric's videos in a long Tim. it's so cool to see him still at it. cool guy and knows his stuff. keep at it Eric and nice to know you are a mustang guy .
I ran UPR’s chromoly K member kit with chromoly adjustable A-arms, caster/camber plates, bump steer kit, coil over sleeve kit, strange 10 way dbl adjustable struts, manual rack and pinion, and limiters on front suspension. I was very, very happy with UPR parts that I even used their through the floor subframe connectors, their rear chromoly pro series kit with dbl adjustable uppers & lowers, spherical bushings, strange 10 way dbl adjustable rear shocks, and torque box reinforcement kit. I ran the rear with a -2 pinion angle and it hooked very well on the street when foot-braking and very, very well at the track when popping the trans-brake at around 4,250 rpms and a little bit of psi....
I realize I’m a year and a half late to the party, but damn, I can’t believe you decided on coil overs after all that trouble putting those springs in the first time!
Eric, may I correct your statement. The strut is pivoting in the spherical bearing, the one you mount in the car body. This roller bearing is for the spring: because it is a coil spring, it curls up during the compression. This bearing also makes the ride height ajustment easier. And watch this 14:36 Here the nut touches the spherical bearing bode, which is very bad, I believe. The bearing should move freely. Thanks for the video!
Kinda crazy to watch all the work you did and all the expensive parts you installed, just to see you put on a non hub centric spacer at the end. It's only a 1/4 inch, so it should be okay, but I wouldn't risk that.
Great video!! I got a 91 LX mustang and it still has the stock suspension the ass end is sagging and I am bored so I'm gonna tackle it, I was just gonna replace with stock parts, I hope you get a kick back from that suspension company as I am buying the exact same stuff because I am no mechanic and will need your videos the whole fucking way:) your videos helped me with 1979 f150, 1992 Taurus sho, 2008 dodge ram 3500, 2013 dodge grand caravan and now the 91 mustang thanks for the free help ERIC!!!
Another nice video, Eric! Thanks! Informative and with a sense of humor. Also you are not too arrogant to hide the things that (can, and sometimes WILL ) go wrong. I like that! I have some questions for you: Why should the lower control arms be horizontal in the normal driving position? Loaded they will pivot upwards, causing a small horizontal INWARD displacement of the coilover as well. Via the steering knuckle this results in a positive camber. Not so important while driving in a straight line, but for cornering it is an unwanted situation. On the BMW's and Volvo's i worked on, these lower control arms always pointed downward. When cornering the outer wheel pushes the control arm upwards. Geometry (co-sinus) dictates that McPherson strut is thus also pushed outward, causing more negative camber, resulting in more grip from the tire. The vertical load on the inner wheel is reduced, so relatively the lower arm moves downward, resulting in a positive camber which is advantageous. How does swapping to a coilover system change the forces on the upper mounts of the McPherson strut? Previously the vertical wheel loads were divided by the spring and the damper, now they all concentrate on the upper strut mounting point. Should that point now be reinforced? I always thought that spacers should be snug fit. This brattling would make me very nervous.
Thanks. The lower control arms should be in a 'neutral' position to start with to allow full travel both up and down. Camber isn't the issue, bump steer is. Coil overs use different mechanical advantage over the stock coil springs. It would be nice if the spacers fit better, but unless you have some custom made, you're going to have a very hard time finding them.
Thanks Eric, we plan on using the coil over kit for our fox body. I really appreciate the link to the quick trick alignment. I'm wondering can I use this out in the field, as long as it's flat ground because many of our customers ask if we do alignments.
I think you can use the kit 'in the field'. I haven't tried it yet though. Watch out for tire clearance issues with the coil overs. It's nice to have an adjustable set up, lighter too.
Great Video! I also have to put longer studs on my 66 Mustang and I need a set of hub-centric rings for my new rims. One day I hope to rebuild my Mustang like your Fairmont. Keep the vids coming!
One thing about strut coil over springs running close to the tires. A family member of mine had a front coil spring break while driving and it destroyed the tire instantly. Lucky no crash. Its probably a good thing to use nice new coil springs when in doubt. This build looks very nice. The front wheel spacers will change the front spindle bearing loading and the steering geometry but a fourth of an inch does not seem like a lot. Aluminum spacer makes for dissimilar expansion and contraction and may cause problems. I would have used a steel spacer for steel, steel, steel sandwich.
Old yet very good video 1975 to 1993 is foxbody I have a relative who owns one of the last 1993 Ford mustang gt foxbody off Ford assembly line in Michigan, he was a lucky sob his parents worked retired from ford. He specifically ordered his 1993 gt. With upgraded suspension engine etc etc.
I'm running the same set up on my 1993 mustang. I went with P71 wheels since they fit perfectly in the back of my car, where I have 1999 Cobra IRS. I went with a hubcentric MM 1/2 inch spacer, and longer ARP studs. I also am using the long ARP studs on the rear, for the assurance of both safety, and passing tech. The long studs are the only thing people ever notice on my car. The will squat and look at the back wheel, looking at the studs, and not notice the AXLE NUT on the rear of the car, and ask why I have such long studs, lol!!
Double check you strut shaft bushings. With both on the bottom you push the shaft further into the body loosing travel on the shaft and it looks like the nut is a little close to the aluminum surrounding the pillow ball which may cause issues during steering where that shaft may rotate and also move a few degrees away from perpendicular.
Just a heads up, Eric. You should be careful about using all purpose in lieu of moly, even if the all purpose is "really nice." The mode of action in molybdenum disulfide lube is significantly different from how a typical lube works. The moly actually impregnates the surfaces that are being lubricated and it might be that this application needs that impregnation.
Nice video but the wheel spacer thing really makes me rethink that set up. Is the rubbing caused from the k-members location and dimensions or the control arms? Would getting a different k-member or different control arm solve that issue?
Regardless of the length of the studs, I don't think the centre bore of that wheel is far enough on to the hub with the spacers in place. I think you might need wheels with a different offset. Any chance the Mustang has hubs which protrude further through the brake rotor?
You could go with a shorter front coil spring. I run a 12 inch spring and ran into the same problem. I use the spacer as well to clear mine but only temporary until i can get shorter springs.
WOW !!!, Eric, your a Butcher, Baker, A candle stick maker and a mind reader. Yes I went there !!!! 7:35 as you have guest. Your Street. Happy to view your channel Bud. Fun Yet serious content. Another special thanks to, Steady hand Brian for his hard work on this Project. Coming along nicely you Guys. The BAD words were edited I guess, I now they were flying when you accidently broke off the Zerk fittings LOL :-D Catch Ya later, Stay Dirty !!.
Hey Eric I was wondering if that truck you got off your father needs a new oil pressure sensor? I gotta replace the one on my truck same year model and engine as that truck. I would love a video showing the proper way of replacing that. It's got a brass fitting that it goes into and the videos I've found on youtube showing the replacement are done by shade tree mechanics like me and how they show how to do it don't fill me with confidence I wont snap the brass fitting. I snapped the one on the 4.3l I was putting in my van. Salvage yard busted the sensor and I had to replace it. I really don't want to go through drilling and tapping that again.
I once had a 85 plymouth voyager mini van. I had to learn NOT to use the pressure washer and blast at the upper front coil spring spacers. Washing the lube off caused dry squeaky turning. Just leave it dirty up there and the grease stays on.
I like the grease fittings so you can lube the bushings. The struts are a little crooked due to the off set of the control arm but that should not be a big deal just a bit more caster angle and that may be a good thing anyway.
Technically it's not a Ford engine, it's a World Products Man O War block. www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/PBM/Block%20Kits/KITSBK-29 BTW I like Chevy's too. ua-cam.com/video/5cblScHKnHc/v-deo.html
79-92 Foxbody? man I must have a super rare 1993 foxbody I'll post it for $100,000,000.00 tonight on eBay :) thanks for the heads up!!! jk... lol love the videos man!!
Thank you Thank you Thank you for uploading this. I'm in the process of installing this same kit but Im doing a irs swap also. What size wheels are you going to run since there may be clearance issues. I plan on 18x9 wheels.
As long as those spacers stay centered you'll be good. Even if they move I dunno if they'll cause a vibration. They are an easy solution to a big problem you had.
Those coilovers will probably be kind of noisy since the sleeve doesn't sit on the strut so well at the bottom. Maximum Motorsports makes sleeves to fit certain struts perfectly. My MM coilovers with Bilstein struts are dead silent and sit around that bolt point with no slop.
After all this work I can almost see you putting on a rocket bunny-esque widebody on lol. Also for the wheels, seeing that you're on steel wheels right now, an upgrade to alloys with a lower offset would solve the tire clearance problem and provide some almighty unsprung weight savings, not to mention a potentially better look.
Every Mustang.. 79-93 foxbody.. 94-04 sn95.. 05-14 s197.. has 1/2-20 thread wheel studs. Ford changed to metric M14x1.5 thread wheel studs in 2015 s550 chassis.
Hi Eric. Love the videos . Are you ever gonna finish this project ? Cuz all i see it assembly then disassembly. And why are you using the fugly police wheel? The never looked good on any car including cop cars.
Gettin' a whole lot closer to completion. Not sure if you've mentioned how you plan on cooling that beast... I was under the assumption that you're not allowed to run coolant at the strip. If thats true, how can you make it a daily driver, and a strip car?
You should make a ETCG1 vid on all of the different classifications, and specs that are required at the track. BTW, you've really helped me step up my mechanics game, and I want to thank you. Even the wife's impressed. lol I've just about watched all your vids, and tell everyone about you. Kind of a bummer to think you may step away from doing this to persue your income eleswhere.
If I was building the car strictly for the track, I would build it so that I could abide by the rules of the track I planed to race at. What I'm doing can be used at the track on some days, but not so much in competition. I'm just looking to build a cool car I can have fun with when I'm done. Thanks for the suggestion.
It's very interesting how there's so much problem-solving involved. Then you solve one and it creates another. Ever have to walk away because you want to put your foot through a body panel?
Did your wheels come with the old school pie tin hub caps? I plan on going with wheels just like that on my 66 Galaxie but I want the pie tin hub caps as well.
Eric I need your advice. I'm working on a 1986 Ford LTD (midsize) and I would like to install adjustable coil in the front and rear end. What would you recommend?
Did you ever have issues with the coilover adjuster screw rubbing on the sway bar end link? I'm currently having rubbing issues with full qa1 suspension
What size wheels and back spacing are you running in the front with the team z front end conversion kit. Tried putting on 17x9 with 5.98 BS. The wheel suck out way past fender and looks like the tire will hit the coil over. Thanks!
Do you think it's a design & brand preference. Example Maximum performance verse Hotchkis. You'll still have vibration doesn't matter how much lube you use same as if you used Energy Suspension bushings. If you decide got all out switch to solid engine & tranny mounts you'll get even more vibration.
5 lessons I have learned from this video:
1) Keep your shaft clean
2) Wash your nuts
3) Use lots of lube when sticking things into holes
4) A longer stud is better
5) Most importantly, always protect your shaft
Those are the bullet points. Well done.
3) Apply a liberal amount of lube
4) Put that in there. Bring these two things together.
5) Stop at the bum stop
You win the Internet today :)
Was Poly ok with you using lube?
lmfao
Good to see you smiling at the end of the video Eric! The excitement and the fun in the journey to completing your build is always important and makes it all worth it in the end!
Eric my man!!! Happy to have found you again!!! I remember I used to watch your videos back in college when i was broke as hell and I had my bucket 98 civic 6 years ago and when it would break down I used to watch your videos on how to fix certain things, I remember the struggle was real, thanks for all the help!!!!
Damn, about time another Fairmond video came out!! Love the fabrication on this vehicle. It is going to run and drive like a new car.
I hope so.
This is making me rethink my stock suspension on my 2000 Mustang. Thanks for this great series
G'day Eric that maximum racing set up is really fantastic engineering , what a piece of art? Love how the Fairmont is slowly changing thanks for showing it Johnno
50 hour week, today's friday home from work now I can enjoy another ETCG video!
so cool man.
I haven't seen Eric's videos in a long Tim. it's so cool to see him still at it. cool guy and knows his stuff.
keep at it Eric and nice to know you are a mustang guy .
I ran UPR’s chromoly K member kit with chromoly adjustable A-arms, caster/camber plates, bump steer kit, coil over sleeve kit, strange 10 way dbl adjustable struts, manual rack and pinion, and limiters on front suspension. I was very, very happy with UPR parts that I even used their through the floor subframe connectors, their rear chromoly pro series kit with dbl adjustable uppers & lowers, spherical bushings, strange 10 way dbl adjustable rear shocks, and torque box reinforcement kit. I ran the rear with a -2 pinion angle and it hooked very well on the street when foot-braking and very, very well at the track when popping the trans-brake at around 4,250 rpms and a little bit of psi....
I realize I’m a year and a half late to the party, but damn, I can’t believe you decided on coil overs after all that trouble putting those springs in the first time!
Eric, may I correct your statement. The strut is pivoting in the spherical bearing, the one you mount in the car body. This roller bearing is for the spring: because it is a coil spring, it curls up during the compression. This bearing also makes the ride height ajustment easier.
And watch this 14:36 Here the nut touches the spherical bearing bode, which is very bad, I believe. The bearing should move freely.
Thanks for the video!
I like Maximum Motorsports coil over conversion kit on the front struts, they look really like quality pieces on your video Eric.
It's nice working with all new clean parts. I did the same to my SN95. ? It was a pleasure working on it.
Kinda crazy to watch all the work you did and all the expensive parts you installed, just to see you put on a non hub centric spacer at the end. It's only a 1/4 inch, so it should be okay, but I wouldn't risk that.
Hello Eric. I believe fox bodies ran into 1993. There was the 1993 mustang and then in 1994 they switched over to the SN95 body style.
Great video!! I got a 91 LX mustang and it still has the stock suspension the ass end is sagging and I am bored so I'm gonna tackle it, I was just gonna replace with stock parts, I hope you get a kick back from that suspension company as I am buying the exact same stuff because I am no mechanic and will need your videos the whole fucking way:) your videos helped me with 1979 f150, 1992 Taurus sho, 2008 dodge ram 3500, 2013 dodge grand caravan and now the 91 mustang thanks for the free help ERIC!!!
Another nice video, Eric! Thanks! Informative and with a sense of humor. Also you are not too arrogant to hide the things that (can, and sometimes WILL ) go wrong. I like that!
I have some questions for you:
Why should the lower control arms be horizontal in the normal driving position?
Loaded they will pivot upwards, causing a small horizontal INWARD displacement of the coilover as well. Via the steering knuckle this results in a positive camber. Not so important while driving in a straight line, but for cornering it is an unwanted situation.
On the BMW's and Volvo's i worked on, these lower control arms always pointed downward. When cornering the outer wheel pushes the control arm upwards. Geometry (co-sinus) dictates that McPherson strut is thus also pushed outward, causing more negative camber, resulting in more grip from the tire. The vertical load on the inner wheel is reduced, so relatively the lower arm moves downward, resulting in a positive camber which is advantageous.
How does swapping to a coilover system change the forces on the upper mounts of the McPherson strut? Previously the vertical wheel loads were divided by the spring and the damper, now they all concentrate on the upper strut mounting point. Should that point now be reinforced?
I always thought that spacers should be snug fit. This brattling would make me very nervous.
Thanks. The lower control arms should be in a 'neutral' position to start with to allow full travel both up and down. Camber isn't the issue, bump steer is. Coil overs use different mechanical advantage over the stock coil springs. It would be nice if the spacers fit better, but unless you have some custom made, you're going to have a very hard time finding them.
This is another great video. If you really want a proper automotive tutorial from a seasoned expert, it has to be ETCG.
You're kidding right?
lillpit09 No, not at all.
Thanks Eric, we plan on using the coil over kit for our fox body. I really appreciate the link to the quick trick alignment. I'm wondering can I use this out in the field, as long as it's flat ground because many of our customers ask if we do alignments.
I think you can use the kit 'in the field'. I haven't tried it yet though.
Watch out for tire clearance issues with the coil overs. It's nice to have an adjustable set up, lighter too.
Great Video! I also have to put longer studs on my 66 Mustang and I need a set of hub-centric rings for my new rims. One day I hope to rebuild my Mustang like your Fairmont. Keep the vids coming!
Awesome. Good luck with your build!
would have loved to watch the full detailed version of this, its a shame a lot of people are hating on the build having to change the style
Link in the description to the full version of this video.
Nik Trp I like his new style of video much better
Pretty much the same for 95-04 mustangs. Fox and SN95/ New edge share the same basic chassis/ suspension. Maximum motorsports rocks.
One thing about strut coil over springs running close to the tires. A family member of mine had a front coil spring break while driving and it destroyed the tire instantly. Lucky no crash. Its probably a good thing to use nice new coil springs when in doubt. This build looks very nice. The front wheel spacers will change the front spindle bearing loading and the steering geometry but a fourth of an inch does not seem like a lot. Aluminum spacer makes for dissimilar expansion and contraction and may cause problems. I would have used a steel spacer for steel, steel, steel sandwich.
Thanks Eric, your videos are excellent. Good point about the fox body applying to other cars like the Mustang.
7:28 Make sure there's no sticky goo on your shaft. ✅
David G "Stay dirty"
So clean!
Great advice, for all ages.
That was funny
Chicka-wow-wow
Can't wait for the next Fairmont video, Eric!
Old yet very good video
1975 to 1993 is foxbody
I have a relative who owns one of the last 1993 Ford mustang gt foxbody off Ford assembly line in Michigan, he was a lucky sob his parents worked retired from ford.
He specifically ordered his 1993 gt.
With upgraded suspension engine etc etc.
Thanks for not showing a mediocre front suspension!
eric i love these videos man and so do you. keep them up and make them longer!
Thanks! A longer version of this video is linked in the description.
"You can never have enough lube" Truer words, my friend. Truer words...
My jaw dropped at 15:54
Friday and a Fairmont video. It dose not get much better than this.
Awesome video Eric like always!!!
I'm running the same set up on my 1993 mustang. I went with P71 wheels since they fit perfectly in the back of my car, where I have 1999 Cobra IRS. I went with a hubcentric MM 1/2 inch spacer, and longer ARP studs. I also am using the long ARP studs on the rear, for the assurance of both safety, and passing tech. The long studs are the only thing people ever notice on my car. The will squat and look at the back wheel, looking at the studs, and not notice the AXLE NUT on the rear of the car, and ask why I have such long studs, lol!!
Thanks you for an other great and instructive video.
Can wait to see that monster running.
Greeting from Montreal.
this video is pure fn gold!
Double check you strut shaft bushings. With both on the bottom you push the shaft further into the body loosing travel on the shaft and it looks like the nut is a little close to the aluminum surrounding the pillow ball which may cause issues during steering where that shaft may rotate and also move a few degrees away from perpendicular.
You might have to switch holes, use lots of lube and protect your shaft. Another quality video.
Just a heads up, Eric. You should be careful about using all purpose in lieu of moly, even if the all purpose is "really nice." The mode of action in molybdenum disulfide lube is significantly different from how a typical lube works. The moly actually impregnates the surfaces that are being lubricated and it might be that this application needs that impregnation.
Nice video but the wheel spacer thing really makes me rethink that set up. Is the rubbing caused from the k-members location and dimensions or the control arms? Would getting a different k-member or different control arm solve that issue?
5:55 "You must protect your shaft at all times"
Here. Here.
Tom Reinke it's so clean. stay dirty.
and "you must clean your shaft from sticky goo" haha
Regardless of the length of the studs, I don't think the centre bore of that wheel is far enough on to the hub with the spacers in place.
I think you might need wheels with a different offset. Any chance the Mustang has hubs which protrude further through the brake rotor?
You could go with a shorter front coil spring. I run a 12 inch spring and ran into the same problem. I use the spacer as well to clear mine but only temporary until i can get shorter springs.
Thank-you for this video! Especially at 12:43 and 13:30
Now this was a proper fairmont video.
Hope you're well, Eric.
Great video, can't wait to see your alignment!
I think you'll find the information on measuring bump steer equally interesting. Thanks for the comment.
WOW !!!, Eric, your a Butcher, Baker, A candle stick maker and a mind reader. Yes I went there !!!! 7:35 as you have guest. Your Street. Happy to view your channel Bud. Fun Yet serious content. Another special thanks to, Steady hand Brian for his hard work on this Project. Coming along nicely you Guys. The BAD words were edited I guess, I now they were flying when you accidently broke off the Zerk fittings LOL :-D Catch Ya later, Stay Dirty !!.
Yea, the bad words were edited. Thanks for the comment.
Did you ever make the video about doing the at home alignment?
After all of the shaft fender and suspension massaging the fairmont is going to be so relaxed you should rename her coma.
I love how you're overhauling this entire car, I bet nobody has such a highly modified Fairmont as you.
We're just getting started. I've done a lot of 'trick' things to this car since this video as you'll see in future episodes. Thanks for the comment.
Hey Eric I was wondering if that truck you got off your father needs a new oil pressure sensor? I gotta replace the one on my truck same year model and engine as that truck. I would love a video showing the proper way of replacing that. It's got a brass fitting that it goes into and the videos I've found on youtube showing the replacement are done by shade tree mechanics like me and how they show how to do it don't fill me with confidence I wont snap the brass fitting. I snapped the one on the 4.3l I was putting in my van. Salvage yard busted the sensor and I had to replace it. I really don't want to go through drilling and tapping that again.
Great detailed video Eric!
What is the part number for the caster camber plates?
Thanks.
I once had a 85 plymouth voyager mini van. I had to learn NOT to use the pressure washer and blast at the upper front coil spring spacers. Washing the lube off caused dry squeaky turning. Just leave it dirty up there and the grease stays on.
I like the grease fittings so you can lube the bushings. The struts are a little crooked due to the off set of the control arm but that should not be a big deal just a bit more caster angle and that may be a good thing anyway.
That's what the camber/caster plates are for. I haven't made any adjustments yet. Thanks for the comment.
You building a great street car I'm a Chevy fan i have not seen anyone else build a fairmont with a Ford motor I have seen one with ls1 5.7
Technically it's not a Ford engine, it's a World Products Man O War block. www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/PBM/Block%20Kits/KITSBK-29
BTW I like Chevy's too. ua-cam.com/video/5cblScHKnHc/v-deo.html
Great video couldn't ask for more
79-92 Foxbody? man I must have a super rare 1993 foxbody I'll post it for $100,000,000.00 tonight on eBay :) thanks for the heads up!!! jk... lol love the videos man!!
Do you think that the tire would rub with the engine in and the car on the ground? I really your videos thank you
Eric, If you ever have a flat tire, and the tires expand, are you going to ruin your tires or coil springs?
Thank you Thank you Thank you for uploading this. I'm in the process of installing this same kit but Im doing a irs swap also. What size wheels are you going to run since there may be clearance issues. I plan on 18x9 wheels.
Found it 'link in the description' 👍
As long as those spacers stay centered you'll be good. Even if they move I dunno if they'll cause a vibration. They are an easy solution to a big problem you had.
Really great video 👍🏽 learned a lot
hey do you have a video of how to install door poppers? let me know i just need an idea of how to get started
Those coilovers will probably be kind of noisy since the sleeve doesn't sit on the strut so well at the bottom. Maximum Motorsports makes sleeves to fit certain struts perfectly. My MM coilovers with Bilstein struts are dead silent and sit around that bolt point with no slop.
After all this work I can almost see you putting on a rocket bunny-esque widebody on lol.
Also for the wheels, seeing that you're on steel wheels right now, an upgrade to alloys with a lower offset would solve the tire clearance problem and provide some almighty unsprung weight savings, not to mention a potentially better look.
Yea, but I want to keep it ugly for now. Thanks for the comment.
i was thinking the same thing when you were cleaning that strut shaft. lol lol
Eric, do you think there's enough space between the tire and the coil-over? Looks like it might make contact when the tire flexes during cornering.
Every Mustang.. 79-93 foxbody.. 94-04 sn95.. 05-14 s197.. has 1/2-20 thread wheel studs.
Ford changed to metric M14x1.5 thread wheel studs in 2015 s550 chassis.
Moroso 46185 are direct fit in 94-04 front hubs.
ARP 8SWR or ARP 7703 both "fit" but require the hubs be drilled for the knurl to fit.
Hi Eric. Love the videos . Are you ever gonna finish this project ? Cuz all i see it assembly then disassembly. And why are you using the fugly police wheel? The never looked good on any car including cop cars.
I know hub centric rings are for wheels but couldn't you use them for your wheel spacers instead of the rtv?
Gettin' a whole lot closer to completion. Not sure if you've mentioned how you plan on cooling that beast... I was under the assumption that you're not allowed to run coolant at the strip. If thats true, how can you make it a daily driver, and a strip car?
This is a street car, not a full race car. Mishimoto will handle the cooling.
Would you not be allowed to complete against race cars, at the track then? Sorry, I'm new to this, and don't want to sound dumb. lol
You should make a ETCG1 vid on all of the different classifications, and specs that are required at the track. BTW, you've really helped me step up my mechanics game, and I want to thank you. Even the wife's impressed. lol I've just about watched all your vids, and tell everyone about you. Kind of a bummer to think you may step away from doing this to persue your income eleswhere.
If I was building the car strictly for the track, I would build it so that I could abide by the rules of the track I planed to race at. What I'm doing can be used at the track on some days, but not so much in competition. I'm just looking to build a cool car I can have fun with when I'm done. Thanks for the suggestion.
I get that, but I wanna see you blow the doors off people. I don't know how you would be able to film that, if not at the track....
It's very interesting how there's so much problem-solving involved. Then you solve one and it creates another. Ever have to walk away because you want to put your foot through a body panel?
You're exactly right. The entire build has gone this way. It is frustrating sometimes, but honestly, I enjoy the challenge. Especially if it works.
Did your wheels come with the old school pie tin hub caps? I plan on going with wheels just like that on my 66 Galaxie but I want the pie tin hub caps as well.
woo! another Fairmont vid!
dang didn't know u had to prime struts. looks like I have plans this weekend.
Did you do the bumpsteer adjustment yet, or do you have a bumpsteer video??
Adding a kit to my Fox body
Eric I need your advice. I'm working on a 1986 Ford LTD (midsize) and I would like to install adjustable coil in the front and rear end. What would you recommend?
It will hit the spring during tire inflation when hits bumps or uneven terrain.
you should do a tool review for the oem tools impact gun really good for the price!
Those wheel spacers are thin and the extended studs are a trusted name brand and material.They will be fine.
Nicely polished shaft :D
2008 Honda civic how do you change the ball join in the front wheel
Did you ever have issues with the coilover adjuster screw rubbing on the sway bar end link? I'm currently having rubbing issues with full qa1 suspension
Would changing the wheel to one with a different back spacing solve the clearance problem?
7:35 That expression had me laughing. :D Know what everyone's thinking, but too amused to be totally serious. :p
What size wheels and back spacing are you running in the front with the team z front end conversion kit. Tried putting on 17x9 with 5.98 BS. The wheel suck out way past fender and looks like the tire will hit the coil over. Thanks!
Eric when you going to put the heart of that beast in?
I'm in love with my shock shafts, it all in picture..lollollollollollollollollollollollollol!
Do the quick trick alignment video pls
Do you think it's a design & brand preference. Example Maximum performance verse Hotchkis.
You'll still have vibration doesn't matter how much lube you use same as if you used Energy Suspension bushings.
If you decide got all out switch to solid engine & tranny mounts you'll get even more vibration.
Eric, those polyurethane control arm bushes, do they need relubing every 6000mlies, or are they set and forget?
Lube, lube, and more lube.
I ended up purchasing Steeda weight jacker rear lower control arms that adjust like yours, Steeda makes a much stronger one it’s billet
7:32 the motion inn the ocean!!!!!!!!!! lol hahahahaahahahahaah Eric . definely protecting my shaft
Hi do you have any video on how to replace a rear shock on 2009 Mazda 6 s grand touring?
Whats the backspaceing/offset on the wheels, since they dont fit?
Would the tire have cleared once engine and weight of car was back on the ground?
out of topic question: what's your opinion on the new civic type r? possible future etcg1 video?
I don't have any experience with it so I really can't say.
Haveing the same issue What size is your spring? Upr says if I use there 10" spring I won't need wheel spacers ? Thoughts ?
have you thought about v8 swapping the donor mustang and turning it into a beater
Wesley Ronne he's talked about doing a budget build on the donor mustang in the past. whether or not he actually does remains to be seen.
I have plans for the Mustang that will be revealed at a later date.
EricTheCarGuy sounds awesome. I can't wait to see what you have in mind for it.
is the 1/4 inch spacer going to be enough with tire flex when cornering or the suspension compresses?
It'll be fine. See Kolton Sinclare's comments on wheel spacers in these comments. He works at Maximum Motorsports.
Great informative video. A+