@@ClassyTacos still waiting on CH4x4 switch, the website has a warning stating that a relay needs to be used but I didn't see you add one. Did you install one off camera? Thanks.
@@josemeza7002 That is a warning for individuals that build their own wire harnesses. The large majority of purchased harnesses have a relay built in already. I did not install one for the compressor. From my understanding the compressor has a built in realy already. Thanks for watching.
Classy Tacos, great video and THANKS for showing the wiring in detail. I installed the ARB twin compressor on my 2017 Off Road, and intended to use the ARB rocker in the lower left hand switch panel where a blank was. I’m using CH4X4 switches for off road lights with a replacement switch panel where the change pocket was. So, it turns out the ARB rocker switch does NOT FIT in the Toyota switch mount hole. It’s just a little too wide, and gets hung up on the inside ridge. Typical. I ordered a CH4X4 “compressor” labeled switch and am waiting on delivery. Soon as I get it, I’ll wire it after watching your video again. 😀
This mount is ROCK SOLID. I just got back from Death Valley and went up Lippencott Rd and my dual ARB mounted on this didn't budge a bit. 10/10 for this thing.
Using the same Mount! I ran my manifold on the other side and also ran a relocation kit to my front bumper for my coupler, this way I don’t have to open my hood every time I want to air up.
Nice, I really want to put the manifold on the other side, but sadly no room for the manifold and the locker solenoids. So, I'm stuck on this side. Do you have pic of your set up or a build thread I can read? I'm interested in how you set it up.
@@ClassyTacos I’ll send you pics on IG. Seen dude with the same Mount have the solenoids mounted in there. It’s tight but work. Once I get my air lockers installed I’ll find out lol. Should of done it when I reheated. Message sent from @kahaikaai on IG
No mechanic work during my time, I'm an 0341 heavy weapons. I have been playing in the garage for years on several different vehicles during that time. I wish I would have started a channel 10 years ago. Thank you for the kind words. And thanks for watching.
Thank you for the kind words, I also looked into a power tank. I really like them and how they function, unfortunately power tanks can't run air lockers. Thanks for watching.
@@ClassyTacos powertank.com/collections/arb-locker-parts A Power Tank is an excellent air source for your ARB lockers because it runs silently and is a very simple system. Either plug the pressure relief assembly straight into the regulator coupler on your Power Tank or use our all-in-one kit that uses a 20 oz Power Shot bottle. Even with a wine-sized CO2 bottle, you'll still get hundreds of actuations before needing to refill it.
@@latitude60mining70 There is no need to even buy from Power Tank. All those components are easily sourced for hundreds less. And another benefit of a portable CO2 system is it is fail safe. I have never heard of a CO2 tank fail because the regulator failed or it blew a fuse! Yes, they have to be refilled but that's a very small price to pay for such reliability.
Great video. When you went to wire you’re Ch4x4 switch, did you not use on of their “required” relays? Their website mentions that their switches must be wired to relay otherwise they can melt.
Yes, for my installs all the wiring harness's I use have relays built in already. All my accessories have relays built into the wiring harness. let me know if that makes sense?
@@ClassyTacos thanks for the info. And that makes sense. I guess the question I have is how did you incorporate wiring the relay to the arb wiring loom/ch4x4 switch?
@@johnbenitez8269 Ok so for the ARB wire loom the relays are in the unit if I remember correctly. So all you have to do is match the correct color of the wiring for the AB switch to the ch4x4 switch. I go over it in the video.
@@ClassyTacos Sorry, I miscommunicated what I meant with the relay. You do go over wiring the switch to the arb wire loom and that part I totally get. The relay I’m referring to is a Ch4x4 12v 20/30 amp relay w/ 5 pin harness. It’s a separate part that ch4x4 sells that they claim is required so the switch won’t melt. Did you happen to install one of those? And if so, how did you do it?
@@johnbenitez8269 I see, no worries. I did not install one of those. That would be needed if you do not already have a relay. Or you are creating your own harness from scratch therefore needing a relay. The wiring harness’s I buy or that come with the accessories I install all come with a relay built in. So for me no need to add another relay. They are trying to make sure the consumer understands the switches are not rated for direct power from the battery.
Once again awesome install video. I'm about to start the arb project soon waiting for all my components to arrive. Did the switch you use fit nice and snug? I've had aftermarket switches fit loose.
@@rkladis I understand, I'm a fan of the dual. If you never plan to run lockers you can look into a power tank, much quicker fill ups but they do have cons.
so the other two connectors that are next to the isolation switch. those are for when "lockers" come in then that will be the switch of that one. and the other one which is mid harness that has 2 connectors that are hidden right now is for each locker if ever installed? since i have rear lockers already it means i will only ever use that one extra from switch and from hardness to have front lockers? hope it makes sense lol
I got you. First question is Yes, the 2 open connections in the cab are labeled Switch 1 and switch 2 for Front & rear lockers. Second question is Yes, if you keep the e-locker rear you will only be adding an air locker in the front, so you will only be using the Power switch (labeled the isolation switch) and one switch for the locker. Thanks for watching.
Hey have you found the the bottom Of the mount rests on the ABS lines? I’ve noticed a weird vibration that I can’t pin down. I definitely don’t want those lines to ware.
The twin alone can be had in the 5s with all the extras it runs in the 7 to 8 range. Plus the mount. I have links in the description. Thanks for watching.
Ya, no issues with the coupling contacting the hood. I just don't like it so high. It has not bothered me enough yet to change it. Thanks for watching.
In the back were, the bed cubby. It will be constantly covered in dirt. The dust/dirt will kill the motors before any residual heat will. And there is no way I'm mounting it in the cab. It's a terrible idea.
No break in period for the lockers, just do not engage while it while giving gas and as a precaution I will not engage above 15 mph. Diffs we’re done on the required intervals from ECGS. 500 miles 1st break in diff fluid change. I went over board and changed the oil again at 1000, 2000, and 5000. Next one is 10000. Thanks for watching.
Is the ARB isolator switch necessary if I don’t want to run air lockers Can I just connect the purple wire to the red yellow Assuming the switch is wired with all the other wires (red/ black/ green) are connected together to a 1 relay I’m trying to run a clean install I want to utilize the blue sea fuse block But is it a waste to splice the factory ARB fuses to put it onto the fuse block Only running a winch, compressor, and light bar But I am having an issue running most to the battery so it looks less than pretty
First, thanks for watching. As for the compressor the isolator switch/power switch is necessary as far as I know. You can hide the locker connections in the engine bay. As for a cleaner look, I run all the smaller stuff, lights, radio, fans to the Aux Box. The larger stuff compressors and winch straight to the battery. The winch does have an inline cutoff switch from blue seas. Its the cleanest look given the amount of stuff I have connected.
My shop > www.amazon.com/shop/classytacos
Thanks for watching!
Hit that subscribe button to stay up to date on all my videos!
Just found this video and you’re the only one who showed a push button switch. HUGE thank you, you have saved me so much of a headache my man 🤘🏼
@@angelocasaburri3 anytime, thanks for watching. Hope it all goes smoothly for you.
just the switch wiring video I was looking for!
Thanks for watching. hope it all went well.
@@ClassyTacos still waiting on CH4x4 switch, the website has a warning stating that a relay needs to be used but I didn't see you add one. Did you install one off camera? Thanks.
@@josemeza7002 That is a warning for individuals that build their own wire harnesses. The large majority of purchased harnesses have a relay built in already. I did not install one for the compressor. From my understanding the compressor has a built in realy already. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much man, huge weight off my shoulders.
@@josemeza7002 Any time.
Finally found a USEFUL VIDEO. Great confidence
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words.
Classy Tacos, great video and THANKS for showing the wiring in detail. I installed the ARB twin compressor on my 2017 Off Road, and intended to use the ARB rocker in the lower left hand switch panel where a blank was. I’m using CH4X4 switches for off road lights with a replacement switch panel where the change pocket was.
So, it turns out the ARB rocker switch does NOT FIT in the Toyota switch mount hole. It’s just a little too wide, and gets hung up on the inside ridge. Typical. I ordered a CH4X4 “compressor” labeled switch and am waiting on delivery. Soon as I get it, I’ll wire it after watching your video again. 😀
Awesome, mine have been holding up great. Thanks for watching.
This mount is ROCK SOLID. I just got back from Death Valley and went up Lippencott Rd and my dual ARB mounted on this didn't budge a bit. 10/10 for this thing.
Right, I agree it's a sick mount. Thank you for the feedback.
Where did you get the mount
Nice detailed install video, I would expect nothing less from Classy Tacos! FYI, I prefer the smaller OEM switches too.
Thank you for always being so positive.
Just followed this vid to install the dual compressor and OEM style switch. Thanks CT.
Glad it helped, thank you for letting me know.
Well done
Thank you.
Seems like an awesome mod!
Would be really nice to have onboard air all the time!! :D
Thank you.
Using the same Mount! I ran my manifold on the other side and also ran a relocation kit to my front bumper for my coupler, this way I don’t have to open my hood every time I want to air up.
Nice, I really want to put the manifold on the other side, but sadly no room for the manifold and the locker solenoids. So, I'm stuck on this side. Do you have pic of your set up or a build thread I can read? I'm interested in how you set it up.
@@ClassyTacos I’ll send you pics on IG. Seen dude with the same Mount have the solenoids mounted in there. It’s tight but work. Once I get my air lockers installed I’ll find out lol. Should of done it when I reheated. Message sent from @kahaikaai on IG
Where did you get the Mount?
Did you do any mechanic work in the military? How did you learn how to do all this so calmly and so clean?
No mechanic work during my time, I'm an 0341 heavy weapons. I have been playing in the garage for years on several different vehicles during that time. I wish I would have started a channel 10 years ago. Thank you for the kind words. And thanks for watching.
Thanks again for making a great how to.
I prefer to have a compressed gas bottle instead of all the voodoo of one of these. but to each their own.
Thank you for the kind words, I also looked into a power tank. I really like them and how they function, unfortunately power tanks can't run air lockers. Thanks for watching.
@@ClassyTacos
powertank.com/collections/arb-locker-parts
A Power Tank is an excellent air source for your ARB lockers because it runs silently and is a very simple system. Either plug the pressure relief assembly straight into the regulator coupler on your Power Tank or use our all-in-one kit that uses a 20 oz Power Shot bottle. Even with a wine-sized CO2 bottle, you'll still get hundreds of actuations before needing to refill it.
@@latitude60mining70 There is no need to even buy from Power Tank. All those components are easily sourced for hundreds less. And another benefit of a portable CO2 system is it is fail safe. I have never heard of a CO2 tank fail because the regulator failed or it blew a fuse! Yes, they have to be refilled but that's a very small price to pay for such reliability.
Hey I didn’t see a link for the mount
Look up Slee off road mount
Hello! What is the brand of the mini heat gun? Is not listed on the equipment, tools and parts list. Thank you!
the little torch? Thanks for watching. amzn.to/41EEvYs
Great video. When you went to wire you’re Ch4x4 switch, did you not use on of their “required” relays? Their website mentions that their switches must be wired to relay otherwise they can melt.
Yes, for my installs all the wiring harness's I use have relays built in already. All my accessories have relays built into the wiring harness. let me know if that makes sense?
@@ClassyTacos thanks for the info. And that makes sense. I guess the question I have is how did you incorporate wiring the relay to the arb wiring loom/ch4x4 switch?
@@johnbenitez8269 Ok so for the ARB wire loom the relays are in the unit if I remember correctly. So all you have to do is match the correct color of the wiring for the AB switch to the ch4x4 switch. I go over it in the video.
@@ClassyTacos Sorry, I miscommunicated what I meant with the relay. You do go over wiring the switch to the arb wire loom and that part I totally get. The relay I’m referring to is a Ch4x4 12v 20/30 amp relay w/ 5 pin harness. It’s a separate part that ch4x4 sells that they claim is required so the switch won’t melt. Did you happen to install one of those? And if so, how did you do it?
@@johnbenitez8269 I see, no worries. I did not install one of those. That would be needed if you do not already have a relay. Or you are creating your own harness from scratch therefore needing a relay. The wiring harness’s I buy or that come with the accessories I install all come with a relay built in. So for me no need to add another relay. They are trying to make sure the consumer understands the switches are not rated for direct power from the battery.
Once again awesome install video. I'm about to start the arb project soon waiting for all my components to arrive. Did the switch you use fit nice and snug? I've had aftermarket switches fit loose.
Thank you. Yes it did. The Ch4x4 switches have always fit well for me. Thanks for watching.
Hey bro good stuff.
Thank you!
Where do you get that shifter? Looks good.
The shifter ball and extension can be bought from Amazon.
Ball -- amzn.to/3OKcXf7
Extension -- amzn.to/3Ky3C6w
Awesome video as always. What mount is that ? Ty brother
Thanks man. This is the Slee Offroad Mount.
Linky -- sleeoffroad.com/products/sok0038/
@@ClassyTacos they have some nice stuff. I’m undecided if I want the single or double compressor. Mostly just me airing up n down n no air lockers
@@rkladis I understand, I'm a fan of the dual. If you never plan to run lockers you can look into a power tank, much quicker fill ups but they do have cons.
so the other two connectors that are next to the isolation switch. those are for when "lockers" come in then that will be the switch of that one. and the other one which is mid harness that has 2 connectors that are hidden right now is for each locker if ever installed?
since i have rear lockers already it means i will only ever use that one extra from switch and from hardness to have front lockers?
hope it makes sense lol
I got you.
First question is Yes, the 2 open connections in the cab are labeled Switch 1 and switch 2 for Front & rear lockers.
Second question is Yes, if you keep the e-locker rear you will only be adding an air locker in the front, so you will only be using the Power switch (labeled the isolation switch) and one switch for the locker.
Thanks for watching.
what wires do i use if i have an auxbeam 6 gang?
Hey have you found the the bottom
Of the mount rests on the ABS lines? I’ve noticed a weird vibration that I can’t pin down. I definitely don’t want those lines to ware.
I have not checked that. I will at some point today and get back to you.
How much that twin air compressor? when you buy it’s complete accessories?
The twin alone can be had in the 5s with all the extras it runs in the 7 to 8 range. Plus the mount. I have links in the description. Thanks for watching.
So did your hood close with coupling sticking up that high?
Ya, no issues with the coupling contacting the hood. I just don't like it so high. It has not bothered me enough yet to change it. Thanks for watching.
Why put it in the front where all the heat at ? I would find a place in the back to keep it cool . I think the heat will destroy it prematurely.
In the back were, the bed cubby. It will be constantly covered in dirt. The dust/dirt will kill the motors before any residual heat will. And there is no way I'm mounting it in the cab. It's a terrible idea.
@@ClassyTacos how about inside the bed ?
@@Sclassmercedes that’s even dirtier then the cubby spot. You do what works best for you.
What rings are you using around your vents?
For the AC vents they are the AJT Design vent rings. Thanks for watching.
Did you have to brake in the lockers before going out off roading? Also did you drain and refill diff oil after a week? Thank you🤙🏾
No break in period for the lockers, just do not engage while it while giving gas and as a precaution I will not engage above 15 mph. Diffs we’re done on the required intervals from ECGS. 500 miles 1st break in diff fluid change. I went over board and changed the oil again at 1000, 2000, and 5000. Next one is 10000. Thanks for watching.
Any idea on where else I can tap into for the blue wire? My tail fuse slot is already taken by my switch panel.
The fuse block labels changed/were moved over the years of the 3rd gen. Do you have any open slots?
@@ClassyTacos yes I do
Can anyone tell me what the manifold does? I’ve seen it’s “optional but recommended”, but no one will tell me what it does?
In my application It's used to run the lockers.
Is the ARB isolator switch necessary if I don’t want to run air lockers
Can I just connect the purple wire to the red yellow
Assuming the switch is wired with all the other wires (red/ black/ green) are connected together to a 1 relay
I’m trying to run a clean install
I want to utilize the blue sea fuse block
But is it a waste to splice the factory ARB fuses to put it onto the fuse block
Only running a winch, compressor, and light bar
But I am having an issue running most to the battery so it looks less than pretty
First, thanks for watching. As for the compressor the isolator switch/power switch is necessary as far as I know. You can hide the locker connections in the engine bay. As for a cleaner look, I run all the smaller stuff, lights, radio, fans to the Aux Box. The larger stuff compressors and winch straight to the battery. The winch does have an inline cutoff switch from blue seas. Its the cleanest look given the amount of stuff I have connected.
Do you know if this would be possible to install in a 4 cylinder Tacoma? Or at least the single air compressor model?
I can't say for sure, but the single comes with a small bracket. Anything can work with some time and tools.
@@ClassyTacos ahhh I see, thank you for the info. Great videos by the way, very informative and helpful!