If anyone had any confusion (like me) about the connection of the “skinny PDC” cable. It connects to the inside of the fuse box like is shown in the video (as he pulls the fuse box up/apart), and the connection on the top of the fuse box (that used to go to the alternator) is just left empty. The big fuse that comes with the Big-7-Upgrade kit is now the fuse for the alternator so that other connection point inside (on top) of the fuse box, is no longer needed.
Thanks for this! Quick question on which of the fuses supplied we should use... do we match the size amp on the high output alternator or how do you decide which one?
Thanks for the video. But my goodness so many important parts left out! They need to do a full update. Missed so many steps and this isn’t for all 3rd gen’s
I’ve been having some kind of electrical issue. Tested alternator, starter and it’s good. New battery and new terminals and ground wire to fender. And yet at random, I go to start my truck, one click and dies out. No power at all. I’m thinking of doing this and that it will solve this frustrating problem.
Hey there, was wondering if you ended up resolving the issue? Had same exact thing happen to me. Died out and no power at all for few min, then came back to normal... Will be ordering a kit soon, and was just curious if it solved your issue? Thanks!
Correct. Remember to follow the labels on the wires. I found mounting the fuse on the radiator shroud worked best for my setup. However, you can put it anywhere you want.
can’t find where the stock Engine block to firewall negative wire is located. I didn’t see you replace one in any of your videos. I already replaced the engine block to battery negative but never saw a second engine block negative to replace.
@@explorehqthere is a second ground that goes from the passenger side head to the firewall. It grounds towards the top of the firewall a couple inches below the cowl. Mine (2002 T4R) pretty much goes strait up and down from the head to the firewall
I just got to the last small wire that you took off the fuse box in the end of your video but the end of mine thats bolted to the fuse box has a 2nd wire attached with it but yours doesn't. Im not sure what it's for
@explorehq yes, theres a 2nd wire attached to the fuse panel bolt. I have no idea what it's for or where the other end leads to because I haven't pulled the fuze box completely apart to see but i will probably just leave it like you said.
@explorehq can I actually mount the new cable to the top of the fuze box instead of the bottom? I have an abs2 fuze in the way for it to mount flush on the bottom
In case anyone has this same issue with the 2nd smaller fuse box wire (white) that leads into the main harness just cut the larger wire off and screw the new red jeep cable wire overtop of the smaller white wire.
Trying to finish this up on my 02 4runner. The factory PDC cable on mine has a second thin gauge wire crimped into the connecter that runs under the fuse panel. Do I need to cut this one to install the new PDC cable?
@@andyr4510 I ended up using the supplied cable to the fuse panel. I cut off the old wire but left the old terminal ring and thin wire attached. I had to run to the hardware store and get a slightly longer screw to make up for the added thickness of the old terminal. No problems with this setup so far.
@@andyr4510 If I recall correctly it was part of the ABS/Traction control systems on the 01-02 years. It is not present on the earlier 3rd gen 4Runners and 01-02 were the years that had the new ABS/Traction control systems
Very cool!!! I dunno if I would trust Jeep people making stuff for a T4R!! LOL J/K What brand of alternator is that? Says 140amp. Do you happen to know how many amps it puts out on idle and what rpm for the 140amp output?? Thank you!
Autotech Engineering. It is 80amps at idle and 140amps at 1500rpm. I went with this instead of the Cadi swap because I didnt want to change wiring or have the fitment hassle.
@@explorehq thank you for the info!! I didn’t see a 140amp on their website but I will call them. It might not be posted but it’s available. Thanks again!
3 questions did you grab the 2ga or 1/0ga ? and my other question did you upgrade your alternator ? And also the fuse you put close to the radiator what is that for ?
I did the 1/0 and YES, I did upgrade the alternator. But, you don't need to upgrade the alternator to get the benefits of the kit. I upgraded because I am running way more accessories than the stock alternator could keep up with.
I edited my comment my apologies for so many questions but that extra fuse you added close to the radiator how would I look that up and I will be doing the same adding some music and lights myself
@@DarrylNelson-e1q If you mean Autotech Engineering, yes, Ive heard of them. I dont know about that specific alternator. However, I found over 500 4 star reviews for it. I say run it with a amp meter gauge in cab and watch it closely.
If anyone had any confusion (like me) about the connection of the “skinny PDC” cable. It connects to the inside of the fuse box like is shown in the video (as he pulls the fuse box up/apart), and the connection on the top of the fuse box (that used to go to the alternator) is just left empty.
The big fuse that comes with the Big-7-Upgrade kit is now the fuse for the alternator so that other connection point inside (on top) of the fuse box, is no longer needed.
just what i was looking to confirm. Thanks!
Thanks for that! Major oversight not explaining, or even mentioning that in this video
Um, thanks for saving me a ton of time getting frustrated and greasy.
Thanks for this! Quick question on which of the fuses supplied we should use... do we match the size amp on the high output alternator or how do you decide which one?
Thanks for explaining that, highly appreciate it 🤘🏽
Just finished this job and watching your videos added to our success. Thank you so much for an incredible tutorial!!
Thank you, just ordered one. Finally pulled the trigger on it after seeing the condition of my OEM terminals and a few grounds
Great video!
Appreciate you walking thru this upgrade.
Clear and you showed all the steps!
Thank you!
DUUUUDE! Thank you! glad I waited to install. Finally an install video! stoked!
So glad to hear it helped!
Your video helped tremendously, thanks brother. Keep up the 3rd gen content!
Great video, definitely helped out. Wish it showed more of how to on certain things instead of just saying. But still helped! Thank you!
Check my other videos. I did an update to show the alternator wiring in detail. Email me if you get stuck. explorehq1@gmail.com
great video, ordering the same cable setup.
Thank you!!! Been looking for an install video for the last 6 no ths
Happy to hear it helped!
Thanks for the video. But my goodness so many important parts left out! They need to do a full update. Missed so many steps and this isn’t for all 3rd gen’s
Dudeeeee sweet video. Mine came in the mail today and im planning to do this on Sunday
Awesome! Take your time and cut the factory loom SLOWLY.
Same here! cable install party!
im having a hard time locating where the firewall to engine block cable goes. Can someone help me please?
Where was it
@ it was located by the firewall on the engine block passenger side
I’ve been having some kind of electrical issue. Tested alternator, starter and it’s good. New battery and new terminals and ground wire to fender. And yet at random, I go to start my truck, one click and dies out. No power at all. I’m thinking of doing this and that it will solve this frustrating problem.
Hey there, was wondering if you ended up resolving the issue? Had same exact thing happen to me. Died out and no power at all for few min, then came back to normal... Will be ordering a kit soon, and was just curious if it solved your issue?
Thanks!
Doesn't only one cable go to the top of the fuse box? Not the bottom/front side.
So basically the fuse in the fuse box that goes on the is replaced with the bigger fuse in the kit
Correct. Remember to follow the labels on the wires. I found mounting the fuse on the radiator shroud worked best for my setup. However, you can put it anywhere you want.
can’t find where the stock Engine block to firewall negative wire is located. I didn’t see you replace one in any of your videos. I already replaced the engine block to battery negative but never saw a second engine block negative to replace.
It’s the one by the oil filter. You really need to clean the area up before swapping to the new cable.
@@explorehqthere is a second ground that goes from the passenger side head to the firewall. It grounds towards the top of the firewall a couple inches below the cowl. Mine (2002 T4R) pretty much goes strait up and down from the head to the firewall
See @chadlangford4277 response. Passenger side fire wall.
@@chadlangford4277thanks….had me second guessing all my work initially 😅
Thanks for the video! Which amp fuse did you use?
Glad you enjoyed it! Based on my needs, I went with the 200amp.
I just got to the last small wire that you took off the fuse box in the end of your video but the end of mine thats bolted to the fuse box has a 2nd wire attached with it but yours doesn't. Im not sure what it's for
A second wire attached to the fuse panel bolt? If so, leave it and just attach the wire provided in the kit.
@explorehq yes, theres a 2nd wire attached to the fuse panel bolt. I have no idea what it's for or where the other end leads to because I haven't pulled the fuze box completely apart to see but i will probably just leave it like you said.
@explorehq can I actually mount the new cable to the top of the fuze box instead of the bottom? I have an abs2 fuze in the way for it to mount flush on the bottom
@@austin4494 Without being there, I can't tell you for sure. Be safe with that electricity!
In case anyone has this same issue with the 2nd smaller fuse box wire (white) that leads into the main harness just cut the larger wire off and screw the new red jeep cable wire overtop of the smaller white wire.
Trying to finish this up on my 02 4runner. The factory PDC cable on mine has a second thin gauge wire crimped into the connecter that runs under the fuse panel. Do I need to cut this one to install the new PDC cable?
What did you do
@@andyr4510 I ended up using the supplied cable to the fuse panel. I cut off the old wire but left the old terminal ring and thin wire attached. I had to run to the hardware store and get a slightly longer screw to make up for the added thickness of the old terminal. No problems with this setup so far.
@ I did the same thing. Glad to hear that! Did you find out what the extra wire was for?
@@andyr4510 If I recall correctly it was part of the ABS/Traction control systems on the 01-02 years. It is not present on the earlier 3rd gen 4Runners and 01-02 were the years that had the new ABS/Traction control systems
@ gotcha! Makes sense. Thanks.
Very cool!!! I dunno if I would trust Jeep people making stuff for a T4R!! LOL J/K
What brand of alternator is that? Says 140amp. Do you happen to know how many amps it puts out on idle and what rpm for the 140amp output?? Thank you!
Autotech Engineering. It is 80amps at idle and 140amps at 1500rpm. I went with this instead of the Cadi swap because I didnt want to change wiring or have the fitment hassle.
@@explorehq thank you for the info!! I didn’t see a 140amp on their website but I will call them. It might not be posted but it’s available. Thanks again!
3 questions did you grab the 2ga or 1/0ga ? and my other question did you upgrade your alternator ? And also the fuse you put close to the radiator what is that for ?
I did the 1/0 and YES, I did upgrade the alternator. But, you don't need to upgrade the alternator to get the benefits of the kit. I upgraded because I am running way more accessories than the stock alternator could keep up with.
I edited my comment my apologies for so many questions but that extra fuse you added close to the radiator how would I look that up and I will be doing the same adding some music and lights myself
And the alternator I’ve been looking at idk if your familiar with them is auto tech 320A
@@DarrylNelson-e1q If you mean Autotech Engineering, yes, Ive heard of them. I dont know about that specific alternator. However, I found over 500 4 star reviews for it. I say run it with a amp meter gauge in cab and watch it closely.
Okay what alternator did you go with ?
What is the fuse for by the radiator?
Its the new alternator fuse. The kit redirects it from the factory box.
Did you replace the wire from the firewall to the block?
There isnt one that goes to the fire wall. Someone may have added one before you got the truck.
@@explorehq I just got my kit in the other day and they included it
@@mitchuation217 When you get to the install, take a pic for us to show what it replaces.
My kit came with the same wire, not sure why cause there isn’t an engine block to firewall ground from factory
@@thatguydavidyt If someone figures out if one of the 3rd gen years makes use of that cable, let us know!
Does the alternator wire no longer bolt into the the fuse box?
Nope. The kit includes a separate in line fuse.
Is there a video that shows how to do this part? I’m a bit lost
@@SamanthaKaupke email me and I will get you a quick video following that cable.
@@explorehq I’m not seeing a public email for you on your channel?
@@SamanthaKaupke Its under details. ExploreHQ1@gmail.com
Mayor of yappertown
Hey gang! I made a quick video to show the new alternator wiring. ua-cam.com/video/PqXskx2VdKI/v-deo.html