Old video- but what thickness were your washers. I’ve seen some use 3 or 4 washed but never a thickness, I used three but the belt is at a slight angle wearing out the bearing prematurely.
thanks for the vid bro. Might of missed it, but is the belt the same? id imagine it is because the diameter of the cs144 wouldn't matter and if the grooves in the pully are different then you cant use it anyway.
I want to ask you this i have 1997 4runner( 3rd generation), but it is 2.7 litter one, anyway my alternator is seized on it, and belt broke in it, now i lubricate it, and want to see if i can unseized it( on the truck), but do not know the size of the nut inside in the front of the alternator...i could back and fort it to see !!!( inside of the pully there), do you ?I hope is not a weird question !
The 3 posts on the back of the alternator appear to go directly to the windshield heater wiring. It seems like those posts are outputs and part of the 140A are going directly to them. By cutting them off, or not using them, you are not going to get the full 140A out of this Alternator. The version WITHOUT accomodations for the windshield heater still have an output of 140A, so why not just use that one? I'm considering doing this upgrade, so I am interested in not only how you did it, but specifically why you did it the way you did it.
the 3 posts on the back go directly to the windings the alter part of alternator is because they produce alternating current 3 phase alternating current those 3 posts are directly from those 3 winding's for an external rectifier
any idea where to get the harness? looks like th ebay seller does not offer it anymore. also is there a reason why you bought the alternator with the heated shield?
when you did the big 3, the white cable that comes out of the bottom of the fuse box, where did that end up going? I am trying to determine if I put it back together correctly, keep blowing the 120amp fuse and not sure if its that wire or if the alternator dual rectifier is hitting the block exhaust somewhere?
Nice video but what torque spec did you use for the alternator bolts?! I get OCD over stuff like that and I’m sure you did too. Please let me know thank you
Generator x Generator bracket 38 ft/lbs Generator x Adjusting lever 25 ft/lbs Rectifier end frame x Drive end frame 39 in/lbs Generator pulley x Rotor 81 ft/lbs Drive end frame x Voltage regulator 17 in/lbf Generator rear end cover x Rectifier end frame 39 in/lbf Terminal insulator x Rectifier Holder 36 in/lbf
I did this with a 240 amp alternator from my camaro I think it's the 144 alternator. And with 0g on my Camaro I was getting 300amps. But on my 4runner I'm only getting 91amps. Why is that ? I took out the 80 amp relay in the fuse box and put a jump wire and still it's at 91 amps constant it does go down or up. How do I get my full potential out of it on my 4runner ? It's the 3.0 3VZE motor
yodaddy nuggems, the truck is only going to pull the needed amount of amps. So regular running may require that low of amps, now if you try to winch with a low battery the amps will jump as high as needed. However, the stock wiring cannot handle 300 amps. If you want the most out of the alternator I’d recommend the big three wire upgrade.
1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9L v8. Do one WITH the heated windshield. I believe you can do the one off the 4.6L as well but all the forums specifically state the 4.9L
... I just bought and installed a 200amp alt for my 3.4L and I didn't have to rig anything.... it's a good hack, I guess. But if you do a little looking around, you can find the right stuff...
No issues with the extra grooves on that pulley? No belt slip or breaking? Just want to make sure before I install mine if you had any issues maybe share your experience?
How did this turn out for you? I did this mod and I ended up having have to replace the alternator twice due to it killing my battery 3x and having to replace the battery all 3 times. The last straw for me was when I was driving to work and my whole car died out while driving on the freeway and I ended up reverting back and reinstalling the OEM alternator. Haven't had any problems since then. And as far as the CS144 alternator was concerned, I think I had it for all of less than 6 months w/ me going through 3 of these alternators.
Andrei honestly no problems. I ended up replacing the battery, but I’m certain that it’s from the old VC ruining it. It’s been well over a year now and no problems.
The amp rating is how much the alternator can deliver total, for all devices it powers. Your ECU is still going to suck up the same number of amps it always has. There will just be more left over for other accessories added on.
Don’t forget the ground from the back of the alternator to the battery ground. The rectifier negative is connected to the rear case of the alternator. With or with out seat heaters. I didn’t see any difference...when rebuilding both use the same parts.
@@dionisiosorto3231 Found this on another video. It may be the one you're lookin for. store.alternatorparts.com/wiring-harness-adapter-cs-style-plug-to-toyotal-oval-style-plug.aspx
I had that issue when installing the first cs144 the bracket that the l bolt slides into(the adjustment bracket) I loosened the bolt connecting it to the block got it all connected then I tightened it back to the block. I just replaced my other cs144 since it went bad today and everything bolted up easily now. I think that bracket just needs to move a little bit for it to fit right. Not every vehicle is gonna have everything exactly the same. Shit they made a ton of them.
@@anthonynocita7434 how long did your first CS144 last you? I was thinking about swapping or buying a higher amp alternator that just drops right in. Only thing is those higher AMP drop ins are $300 compared to the $130 for the CS144
@@raymondfernandez8791 it lasted for a month or two to be honest I was pulling way to much power from my subs so it kinda failed. My current one has lasted 4 months or so its going strong. I just was stupid and didn't get the right alt for the power demand I had
Old video- but what thickness were your washers. I’ve seen some use 3 or 4 washed but never a thickness, I used three but the belt is at a slight angle wearing out the bearing prematurely.
You can see the tension adjuster pretty well through the wheel wheel.
So why not just have a shop rebuild to higher amperage? I had one build to 130 amp for $110....and still fits all the same.
thanks for the vid bro. Might of missed it, but is the belt the same? id imagine it is because the diameter of the cs144 wouldn't matter and if the grooves in the pully are different then you cant use it anyway.
Great video man ! Need this on my 3rd gen !
How many feet of each wire did you use for the big three? Great video by the way very very detailed and help me out immensely
I want to ask you this i have 1997 4runner( 3rd generation), but it is 2.7 litter one, anyway my alternator is seized on it, and belt broke in it, now i lubricate it, and want to see if i can unseized it( on the truck), but do not know the size of the nut inside in the front of the alternator...i could back and fort it to see !!!( inside of the pully there), do you ?I hope is not a weird question !
The 3 posts on the back of the alternator appear to go directly to the windshield heater wiring. It seems like those posts are outputs and part of the 140A are going directly to them. By cutting them off, or not using them, you are not going to get the full 140A out of this Alternator. The version WITHOUT accomodations for the windshield heater still have an output of 140A, so why not just use that one?
I'm considering doing this upgrade, so I am interested in not only how you did it, but specifically why you did it the way you did it.
the 3 posts on the back go directly to the windings the alter part of alternator is because they produce alternating current 3 phase alternating current those 3 posts are directly from those 3 winding's for an external rectifier
You are correct get the one without the 3 prong windshield heater thing.
Great video, is there any concern for the alternator belt to jump off track by any chance?
No problems! Shouldn't ever be unless the belt was loose or there was a very bad bearing/pully
any idea where to get the harness? looks like th ebay seller does not offer it anymore. also is there a reason why you bought the alternator with the heated shield?
www.ebay.com/itm/264542052889?hash=item3d97ef6219:g:yQ8AAOSwIHpd1-96
Give this a go.
Cool just double checking. And the pullies line up as well?
Did it come with the new wire that goes to the battery?
How many amps and at what rpm?? Might not be worth it.
when you did the big 3, the white cable that comes out of the bottom of the fuse box, where did that end up going? I am trying to determine if I put it back together correctly, keep blowing the 120amp fuse and not sure if its that wire or if the alternator dual rectifier is hitting the block exhaust somewhere?
I kept the stock wire on the Alt. and added the big 3 wire to the same spot.
and the same as the stock wire that went from the alt to the starter as well? I have both just sitting there
Nice video but what torque spec did you use for the alternator bolts?! I get OCD over stuff like that and I’m sure you did too. Please let me know thank you
Generator x Generator bracket 38 ft/lbs
Generator x Adjusting lever 25 ft/lbs
Rectifier end frame x Drive end frame 39 in/lbs
Generator pulley x Rotor 81 ft/lbs
Drive end frame x Voltage regulator 17 in/lbf
Generator rear end cover x Rectifier end frame 39 in/lbf
Terminal insulator x Rectifier Holder 36 in/lbf
Update on how it's lasted over the last 5 years?
No Issues at all.
@@ajonesnv thank you!
I did this with a 240 amp alternator from my camaro I think it's the 144 alternator. And with 0g on my Camaro I was getting 300amps. But on my 4runner I'm only getting 91amps. Why is that ? I took out the 80 amp relay in the fuse box and put a jump wire and still it's at 91 amps constant it does go down or up. How do I get my full potential out of it on my 4runner ? It's the 3.0 3VZE motor
yodaddy nuggems, the truck is only going to pull the needed amount of amps. So regular running may require that low of amps, now if you try to winch with a low battery the amps will jump as high as needed. However, the stock wiring cannot handle 300 amps. If you want the most out of the alternator I’d recommend the big three wire upgrade.
@@OverlandNV I have 0fc 0G wire on charge wire ground for alternator and battery with copper terminals. And that's what i was thinking
Hey do you know wish Cadillac is ? Because they have 2 different size engine . Thanks
Mr Salazar
If you search "4runner Cadillac alternator" you'll find all the info you need
Mr Salazar or just use the cs144 part number lol
1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9L v8. Do one WITH the heated windshield. I believe you can do the one off the 4.6L as well but all the forums specifically state the 4.9L
... I just bought and installed a 200amp alt for my 3.4L and I didn't have to rig anything.... it's a good hack, I guess. But if you do a little looking around, you can find the right stuff...
Ol Pottski what did you use ?
Josh Acoltzin singer alternators
Ignorant question... but did you have to modifiy lower bracket or does the larger altenator have enough swing?
b wooten the swing is fine, but you want to run a Power Steering belt since it’s a bit longer to allow it to swing out to where it needs to be.
I saw that the pulley on the caddy alternator has more grooves than the stock belt. Any suggestions for this? Is it a problem?
Correct. As long as the alternator is spaced properly and you don't have an extremely bad pulley you won't have a problem
No issues with the extra grooves on that pulley? No belt slip or breaking? Just want to make sure before I install mine if you had any issues maybe share your experience?
How many amps is it producing?
Where did you get the replacement battery terminals from, looking for something similar for my tacoma
I purchased them from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X36RILW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How did this turn out for you? I did this mod and I ended up having have to replace the alternator twice due to it killing my battery 3x and having to replace the battery all 3 times. The last straw for me was when I was driving to work and my whole car died out while driving on the freeway and I ended up reverting back and reinstalling the OEM alternator. Haven't had any problems since then.
And as far as the CS144 alternator was concerned, I think I had it for all of less than 6 months w/ me going through 3 of these alternators.
Andrei honestly no problems. I ended up replacing the battery, but I’m certain that it’s from the old VC ruining it. It’s been well over a year now and no problems.
OverlandNV glad to hear.
Anyone have an updated link for the alt pigtail adaptor?
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=CS144+to+toyota&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=CS22+to+toyota
Big amp like that will not mess up ecu or other electrical system ??
SOL LUNA no sir.
OverlandNV thanks man , I already purchased a 130 amp for my ,but I was worried that to much amp was going to destroy other electrical components. 😁
@@solluna2155 Pussy
The amp rating is how much the alternator can deliver total, for all devices it powers. Your ECU is still going to suck up the same number of amps it always has. There will just be more left over for other accessories added on.
Use Grease on Battery Posts it will stop your Corrosion
I imagine you could just superglue the washers together, if the point of tacking them was just to make installation easier.
Supergluing washers together? Man I don't know, that sounds kinda like a hack job...
...I used RTV when I did it. 😂
Don’t forget the ground from the back of the alternator to the battery ground. The rectifier negative is connected to the rear case of the alternator.
With or with out seat heaters. I didn’t see any difference...when rebuilding both use the same parts.
Global Mobile 357 the seat heater have extra pins in the rear I thought. It really shouldn't matter which is used.
Where can i get that plug??
dionisio sorto I’ll look up a new link for you soon.
@@OverlandNV thanks!! Nothing comes out when I click on the link
dionisio sorto I saw that. I’ll have to find it again and re-post it
@@dionisiosorto3231 Found this on another video. It may be the one you're lookin for. store.alternatorparts.com/wiring-harness-adapter-cs-style-plug-to-toyotal-oval-style-plug.aspx
It should be easier now .. Thank you for your help
Great video
for the life of me i can't get the cs144 to fit on my 98 sr5! uhg
I had that issue when installing the first cs144 the bracket that the l bolt slides into(the adjustment bracket) I loosened the bolt connecting it to the block got it all connected then I tightened it back to the block. I just replaced my other cs144 since it went bad today and everything bolted up easily now. I think that bracket just needs to move a little bit for it to fit right. Not every vehicle is gonna have everything exactly the same. Shit they made a ton of them.
@@anthonynocita7434 how long did your first CS144 last you? I was thinking about swapping or buying a higher amp alternator that just drops right in. Only thing is those higher AMP drop ins are $300 compared to the $130 for the CS144
@@raymondfernandez8791 it lasted for a month or two to be honest I was pulling way to much power from my subs so it kinda failed. My current one has lasted 4 months or so its going strong. I just was stupid and didn't get the right alt for the power demand I had
@@anthonynocita7434 got it! Thanks for the reply!
the d1 is only for 4 cylinders the d2 is for v6s the d3 is for v8s and diesels
There is no d2 only d1 and d3
@@AustinNeal they exist... type yzzd2 on Google and it will be there