Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
CS144 Alternator + Big 3 Wiring Upgrade
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 сер 2024
- Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video we show you how to install an aftermarket, higher capacity alternator (CS144) and add additional heavier gauge wiring ("THE BIG 3") to a 3rd Generation Toyota 4Runner. The stock alternator on this vehicle is capable of 85A, and this will quickly be maxed out when running multiple accessories (i.e winch, lighting, fridge, power inverter, etc). The CS144 Alternator is capable of 140A, which will be more than sufficient for most loads on the system. The CS144 code denotes the case style, which was mostly used in 90's Chevy V8s (most notably a late 90's cadillac).
Here is a helpful thread on T4R.ORG
www.toyota-4ru...
*PARTS*
*EWCS 1/0 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt - Combo Pack - Black+Red
(For Alternator Power and Chassis Ground) amzn.to/3lg4C6h
*EWCS 4 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt 10 Feet Each Black+Red
(For Battery Ground) amzn.to/3C0pFzH
*Alternator Swap Adapter Harness Denso Toyota Oval Style to Delco CS144 4 Runner
www.ebay.com/i...
*CS144 Alternator
amzn.to/3rRqJlI
*Alternator Adapter Harness
amzn.to/4d9wph2
*150 Amp Fuse Holder
amzn.to/2VnDkAh
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (great functional ratchets)
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set) amzn.to/39kQVit
*1/4" Drive Socket Set
amzn.to/2PfmaQb
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set
amzn.to/31x8BOo
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
amzn.to/37iQjVt
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
amzn.to/2OehCao
*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Ratchet - (speeds up removal and installation of fasteners)
amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Extended Reach Ratchet - (more powerful version of the one above)
amzn.to/3kOsUS6
*Milwaukee Cordless Drill
amzn.to/3MVttYe
*Milwaukee M12 Battery
amzn.to/3FJZO1j
*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
amzn.to/2HEFTpu
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
amzn.to/2uo2o9x
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers
amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Lineman Pliers - (to bend alternator terminal
amzn.to/34i60KC
*3 Piece Channel Lock Set
amzn.to/33Hj4rE
*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
- ( to torque alternator fasteners to spec)
amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*Drill Bit Set - (to drill out alternator terminal end)
amzn.to/2pSfywn
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (to pry out alternator wire loop clip)
amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (to pry alternator from bracket)
amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Utility Blade - (to cut off wire sheathing)
amzn.to/2JmZQjO
*Multimeter - (used when testing the alternator output voltage)
amzn.to/2NcuGwr
*Clamp Multimeter (used to test amp output)
amzn.to/3BWIGDr
*Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool - (nice for a very positive bond of the terminal end with the wire)
amzn.to/3t2eGmD
*Interchangeable Ratcheting Terminal Crimper Set - (to crimp terminal ends)
amzn.to/2WNq5or
*Wire Strippers/Cutters 22-32 AWG Stranded Wire - (to strip small gauge wire like the ground wire for the fuse holder) amzn.to/2Dc7iKJ
*Heat Gun - (to shrink heat shrink tubing and shrinkable terminal ends)
amzn.to/2DhDf47
*Heavy Duty Cable Terminal Ends - (for the Big 3 wires we made)
amzn.to/2K165NN
*Shrink Tubing Kit - (to have a weather proof and nicer finished look to the cables you create)
amzn.to/3gIcWY8
*24” Bolt Cutters - (to cut heavy gauge wire like the welding cable we used)
amzn.to/345ClpP
*OTC Belt Tension Gauge - (to accurately set drive belt tension)
amzn.to/2t87O7N
*Heat Shrink Wire Connectors (used for fuse holder ground wire)
amzn.to/2VmMVXU
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.
Where have u been all my life...I bought a 3rd gen 4runner. And you have a video for everything I've wanted to do ..thank you so much for you time. Your knowledge is key
We've been right here in the Matrix. Yep, we've got lots of content for 3rd Gen owners. Thanks for commenting. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
I did this upgrade 7 years ago using a 150 amp alternator from ebay seller custom alternator who uses the Toyota case same as Weekend Wrench Turner did. No problems at all running all my goodies. I bought 2 of these just in case and knew the auto parts stores don't have these. I paid $125 for ea. back then. Another awesome video Timmy thanks.
I like that idea as I'm not digging the pulley on the caddy unit being so wide.
Yeah, using a modified alternator in the Toyota case is a definite option to get more juice to your charging system. We're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
The write ups on the big 3 wiring and the cs144 alternator always seem so complicated very nice demonstration and informative video Guys @Timmy The Toolman
Thanks Antonio.
28.50 29.50 was told not to feed that much amp through factory wire .
@@kerrjason8537 that's why the Big 3 wire upgrade was done
If you are thinking of doing this mod, stop waiting any longer but don't forget the bigger battery! My voltage literally never drops 14.5 using the 12k winch, audio system, fridge and all aux lights running.
Thanks for sharing your real world experience with this mod. We appreciate it.
This guy is truly the Einstein of 3rd gens.
Thanks Devin but I don't think Sean nor I are at that level of intelligence. But, where we come up short on intelligence we make up with some good old fashioned hard work putting out informative videos to help people out. We do the research and then share what we have learned with our audience and quite often we learn more after the fact with people commenting and sharing what they know on the subject matter. This is what makes the DIY Automotive Mechanic Community so great. We are all here to help each other out. Happy Wrenching Devin!
Did this upgrade and it’s been a year. Well worth it for any 3rd Gen.
Thanks for supporting the mod Chase.
Before Crimping the Lugs, coat the bare wire with ESD grease, heat it, low heat to melt the grease, so it melts around all the conductors, to keep Electrolysis from settling in and ruining the connection over time. Learned that in the Phone company, when ever a connection of different materials are bonded. Also did the Big 3 with Flex wire, Great Video, Loved the detail's of procedure. Now that alternator is a Neat Upgrade!
Forgot the Heat Shrink!
Yeah, we did forget the heat shrink but luckily the stuff we had would slide over the connector. Thanks for the suggestion for the ESD grease. I'm going to get some.
I got my CS144 and adapter plug yesterday. Plan on installing tomorrow; already completed the “Big3” actually the “Big7”.
Thanks Timmy, I noticed the IAFF sticker, I’m also an IAFF member. Thanks for all the help with this Gen3 I have.
Good luck with the install and you're very welcome. I've got around 1 year left and I'll be joining the retired ranks of the IAFF.
What a coincidence - I JUST did this mod yesterday. Your drive belt replacement video helped me out a lot, but this will help anyone else looking to do this mod even more! Awesome vid as always. Thanks!
And as a side note, if you don't have to do a lot of large cable crimping, you can use a hammer crimper for 1/0ga. wire and some rosin-core solder melted in the wire lugs to get a good connection. Similar results for a little bit cheaper.
Hey Ken, good to hear you found our drive belt video helpful. Thanks for sharing the option to use a hammer crimper and solder for those that don't want to buy a hydraulic tool like we used.
I'm a visual person so this is super helpful guys
So are we. This is why we like making videos rather than write-ups on the jobs we do.
One Fella said it all! I'm removing the Big 3. ESD grease will solve these issues on Assembly on every connection you make. Does not matter where you live, Electrolysis is basically the Green stuff on a Battery cable.
Good to know. But, I've only really seen corrosion on battery terminals myself. I've never seen it on the chassis ground wire, power to the starter or connection to the alternator. I thought the green stuff was more due to battery acid fumes working on those connections and the battery bracket as well.
The green stuff is not electrolysis. It's copper corrosion and your wrong the automobile manufacturers only factor in the draw of the electrical system in the specific vehicle and then add an 30 amps on top of it to charge your battery. So basically what's happening is your alternator is being forced to push all of its current through a small straw which causes excessive heat build up Expeacially if you're battery is really low on charge. They don't care if you're alternator can throw out its full rated output or not. They oversize the alternator intentionally so that even at idle it can produce enough current to feed the vehicle and give the battery 10 to 15 amps charge at idle. They don't care if it takes a couple of hours to bring your battery back up to full charge as they know most people drive roughly 45 minutes to an hour to work every day. So that 45 to 60 minutes is going to give you enough charge where it will start when you come out to leave 8 hours later or whatever. But the battery is only be around 45 to 50% charged but on your way home it will bring it up to around 85 to 90% charge and then the following morning it will finally catch up on your way to work assuming you're battery is still in decent shape. Upgrading the cables to 1/0 OFC cabling with tinned terminal lugs. Gives the alternator the ability to charge your battery in roughly 20 to 30 minutes and it also helps to prevent electrical issues down the road. Will also improve the life of your alternator. It might outlast your vehicle. Don't believe me take a clamp in current clamp meter and read the current output with the stock cable and then change it out to a 1/0 positive to the post on the alternator and then negative to the engine block or one of your alternator mounting bolts to the negative side of the battery and recheck it. Your gonna notice a lower voltage and higher current flow with the larger cable. Going with a larger cable always helps. If you redo your battery cables down to the starter motor your starter won't create as much heat and it will last longer. Again the vehicle manufacturers only care about it making past the 5 year warranty period. Once it's outside of the warranty period they don't care. So if it lasts 15 years you got lucky. If it just makes it outside the warranty before it fails. You didn't get lucky. The way their building cars these days. They want you to buy a new one every 8 to 10 years at the latest.
Nice video guys.Quite watchable! I did the Big Three Mod on my Fox Body Mustang, and it was a very worthy upgrade. Now, I'm toying with doing it on my 4th gen Toyota. Thanks for the nudge!
Thanks! We're glad you like it. Good luck with the job when you get around to doing it on your 4th Gen. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Thank you guy's. I always wanted to do same modification on my 4R, I appreciate you guy's to make this happen.
You're very welcome. Good luck with the job when you get around to doing it.
I’ve been waiting for this Timmy video for along time. Others just don’t do it for me.
Thanks Derek for being a true fan of our channel. Glad we finally produced this video you've been for.
Great video Timmy. Another sic mod I need to do. I’ve been watching your tundra brake upgrade a few times now. Doing that sic mod next week 👍🏽
Thanks Josh. Good luck with all the sic mods!
Lol I simply added upgraded warm led dome lights and the lights flicker when I turn the truck over. I think the increased voltage will help keep everything running and help with the increased power demand.
Also a previous owner of my truck did a real Mickey Mouse job on replacing the battery cables on my 4runner. It has refused to start before because of temperamental battery grounding. Tested the battery and it was still good, it’s just my cables that don’t makes good connection and the posts on my current battery corrode so easily.
so I think a lot of stuff barely works. The rear hatch motor works but it’s extremely slow and low power. It works from the key but not the console switch thinking, fixing the battery cables will be a huge upgrade to my rig. DONT get me wrong it works totally fine right now, but I fear not being able to start it at the wrong time.
Yeah, it sounds like this upgrade will be good for your rig. Good luck with the job.
I have been waiting on this video from you guys for a while. Your information is great and your tutorials are the best. My wife is gonna bed mad at you guys because now I have to spend more money haha. Thanks for posting!
Thanks Blake. We appreciate it! Take your wife to a nice dinner and then break the news to her you're going to be spending some more money on some Sic Mods. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
A 3/8 diameter chrome pipe fitting works great for making a spacer. Cut to desired length with grinder or saw. They have them at home depot
Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
nice video tim! I thought about doing this mod but I'm not sure how reliable these CS144 alternators are. I'd hate to be stranded by one. Perhaps I'll get a Denso high output alternator and test the fitment and output!
Great video on the big 3 also.
Thanks Brother!
Just as a PSA, the CS144 will likely touch and rub the oil cooler line when installed, even with the longer power steering belt. Some people may be comfortable with this, but it will eventually chafe the coolant line and leave you stranded. Better to go with an OE sized upgraded ALT. I removed my CS144 after I noticed.
If that is the case, you could simply put some abrasion protection on the oil cooler hose by rapping a section of heater hose around the oil cooler hose and zip tie it in place. I've done this type of abrasion protection when running ATF cooler lines to an external trans cooler.
I’ll keep an eye on it when I install it. Thanks.
Thank GOD, I always found the write ups way complicated. Never saw that adapter before, but then again maybe I just missed it
Yep, videos are always way more detailed than a write-up in my opinion. There's just no comparison. But, I will say I appreciate write-ups becauae I have used them as research for our videos.
Just a side note to the crimping: A heavy no.1 or no.2 wire will have a natural curve in it from it being wound tightly on a spool in it's manufacturing process. You could hold it up to where it will install and slip on the terminal to align it so when you install it you wont have to twist it very much. this is more pertinent on the shorter wires. Just sayin 'Mike
Thanks for the suggestion.
Been waiting for this one! Thanks!
You're very welcome Miles.
My uncle just did this, says it’s a great upgrade.
Your uncle must know about SICMODS
I had no idea that alt fit. I just bought and installed a Power Bastards 220 amp alternator. For the 3rd gen there are NOT much of a high output alternators to choose from.
Oh btw in your description you put watts rather then amps. Love your vids and know you're all about being spot on 👍so thought I'd let you know. Great vid!!
Well, now you know. Thanks for the info on the typo. Glad you like what Sean and I are doing. Happy Wrenching!
28:38 The toyota alternator has a removable plastic piece that looks like it would fit over the plastic piece that's on that GM alternator. The removable plastic piece from the toyota alt has the notches in it that the "fins" of the power cable fit in. If it fits, you won't have to flatten the "fins". *You can see the removable plastic piece @ **8:07**.*
If you try fitting the plastic piece onto the CS144 alternator, let us know how it works out.
You guys did an awesome job as always! I will be doing that same exact thing because I am installing a 1000 watt amplifier for my subwoofer and a 4x100 amplifier for the door speakers. So that will pull a lot of power. Keep up the good work, you guys make it easy for the rest of us.
Glad you appreciated the video. Good luck with job.
13:45 super smart!
Thanks! Glad you like our MacGyvering technique.
A big 3 wire sold by Timmy would be awesome.
Yeah, we wouldn't want to get in the business of filling orders. We're busy enough as it is.
I did this upgrade before it is worth the money guys especially when we all these light bars and stuff that needs a lot of draw
Thanks for chiming in Francisco. We appreciate it.
Just a few side notes when adding this to a 97 tacoma with the 2.4, it will be necessary to get a different adjuster bolt seeing that the stock adjustor bolt is smaller than the cs144 alternator threads from a 97 Cadillac Deville Duralast Gold. I believe the cs144 threads are 10mx1.5 and stocks are 8mx1.25. With that being said the holes in the adjustor block and the elongated adjustor bracket are too small for the bigger bolt and will need to be drilled out. Also the alternator brackets are flipped compared to the 4runner even the though they share the same alternator. The adjustor bracket is on top instead of bottom and vise versa. Another note is the fan blade portion of the alternator hits the top alternator bracket slightly and will need some minor grinding. Other differences are that the radiator hose leading to thermostat needs to be removed from thermostat to be able to install alternator. On a positive note the stock battery cable fits perfectly over the cs144 stud
(no drilling required you will still need to flatten the wings though ). There is also more room behind alternator to get a wrench or driver back there if you needed to make adjustments to cable orientation. Also it was not necessary to press collar in and out of my bottom alternator bracket however the 3 additional of washers were still needed to fill the gap.
Hope this helps someone. Thanks Timmy The Toolman for this video. This video was my soul inspiration to doing this for my 97 tacoma.
DISCLAIMER
All differences posted were my own personal experience using Autozone DLG1414-26-10 Alternator.
Hey Jaime, I think you meant to say 2.7 liter. Thanks for sharing your experience with this mod. Glad our video inspired you to do the job. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman no actually I did mean the 2.4 4 cylinder. Not the 2.7 v6. The alternator replacements were the same. Awesome video thanks.
@@jaimec2006 The 3RZ 2.7 liter engine is the 4 cylinder engine that was an option for 1st Gen Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners. The 22RE 2.4 liter engine was the engine for 1st Gen 4runners and early pickups. The V6 engine for 1st Gen Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners is the 5VZ 3.4 liter engine.
@@TimmyTheToolman oh ok didnt know the 2.7 was a 4 cylinder. Pretty big 4 banger anyhows I do have the 2.4 22re motor and the alternator upgrade is doable with a little more modification.
Thanks for your replys
@@TimmyTheToolman first gen tacomas had three engine options 2.4l 2RZ-FE (not a 22re), 2.7l 3RZ-FE, and the 3.4l 5VZ-FE. Great video I'll be using it to do this upgrade this weekend.
Awesome vid!! Easy to follow!!
At the volt meter try some ferrals for the wire ends so when you cinch down the wires don’t break. Compresses all then them together.
Eithe way sic mod fer sure!!!!
The fuse holder did come with ferrels on each end but the 1/0 wire we used was too big to fit into the ferrel. I guess in retrospect, 2 gauge wire would have been a better choice to use with that fuse holder.
@@TimmyTheToolman Oh I see. Hmm...maybe a reducer to step it down at the connection....but it works so rock on!!!🤘🏼
Going to do the same but with 4gauge OFC wire. Thank you so much !
Solid LV! Thanks for commenting
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman no… thank you ❤️
Just removed my “Big 3” upgrade a couple days ago. After 5 or so years it started giving me starting issues so I switched back to all OEM parts.
What kind of issues were you experiencing?
You’d think if it coursed any problems they’d appear right after the install?
I'm on year four with my big 3 & alternator upgrade.. NO ISSUES EVER.
It was a failure to start issue. I would just get a single click and nothing after that.
@@1970HondaCL100 Interesting. When you switched back, did that include a starter? When you get a click like that, either you have a bad connection, your battery is weak, or your starter is bad.
I have replaced my alternator, timining belt, and new battery and still having voltage drop to 12.7 or so when in drive driving slow or idle. Last thing on my list is to replace the connectors/wires or the voltage regulator. Is the voltage regulator part of a new alternator? Also, if you have a patreon i will send you some coin for all your help and advice. Thanks again god bless!
We don’t have a patreon but we do have a link to our tip jar…
*Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ*
Regarding your issue, there must be some sort of parasitic draw or loose wire or something to allow that low of voltage to occur..
- Sean
You left the original alternator cable & fuse in? Mine factory fuse 100a rated so if you added another cable and 150a fuse in parallel that means you could potentially draw 250a from your alternator
I'm not an electrical guru by any means, and your math isn't inaccurate, but I don't believe electricity works in that fashion. The way I understand it, the current is going to take the path of least resistance, which would be the larger gauge wire.
What year and model Cadillac should I plug in to find the alternator needed? Also a huge thank you for all the helpful videos 👏 EDIT scratch that I just clicked the link to the alternator in the description and my question was answered.
Glad you found your answer.
Wondering how the digital readout is working out 2 years later? Wondering because it looks like it’s constantly on - and battery drain?
It is a constant drain. If your vehicle sits for many days at a time, that fuse with the digital readout isn't a good idea.
Be careful with you oil pressure switch (infront of the oil filter) when doing this job. If you're pushing the alternator to the right side of the vehicle to get the belt on you may be stressing the connection at the pressure switch.
Would be a good idea to temporarily disconnect the pressure switch, I just snapped the wires off at the connector 😞
You bring up a valid concern. I noticed this but was careful not to stress the wires too much. Sorry that happened to you.
This is good stuff man👍👍 Wish I'd had this video when I upgraded the wiring and alternator a few years back. One thing that I'd like to mention is there are a few companies that sell a rewound high output alternator in the OEM case that negates the need for the CS144. I've got a 150 AMP model from the user 'customalternator' on eBay that I've not had one issue with👍 I don't think the pigtail for CS144 was available when I did mine, so that is an appealing option since you can find the CS144 at any auto store if you need to replace it. Cheers brother 🍺🍺
Cool, thanks for sharing this. Someone will probably take your alternative to using the CS144. It's nice that somebody did come up with that pigtail.
Hey Timmy, are there any issues running a supercharger with this mod?
No, there wouldn't be an issue.
Incredible video great filming, very helpful and inspiring. Great detail. Keep it up! Awesome idea and work!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
I was thinking of trying this with a 4th generation 4runner alternator I saw at the junkyard yesterday. It's 130 amps and I can get them for $15....keeps it Toyota.
Let us know how the install goes.
@@TimmyTheToolman The reason I'm looking at this is because I'm wanting to install electric power steering from a Prius (already obtained) and electric cooling fan maybe from a Volvo or Taurus. 😵
@@CodyWommackVEVO Interesting. We'll be interested for sure how the electric power steering mod works out.
Never seen the cs144 pigtail that is nice Sean @Timmy The Toolman
Well, now you have. I agree it's cool somebody produced the pigtail for this mod.
@@TimmyTheToolman I agree
Bloody awesome new content lads, keep it up! In Aus we tend to use Midi fuses, online and blade fuses seem to melt here during summer cause gets so hot
Thanks and we will keep it up. I reckon the Midi fuse can handle hotter ambient temps. How hot is hot in Aus? I think the hottest I've driven in was recently in Nevada, 117 degrees Fahrenheit.
Have weeks of 48 but mainly around 42 for summer
Thank you for the clear directions on this install, I bought all the parts that you listed and I am currently finishing the install. I was wondering if the fuse holder would kill my battery, if the 4 runner were to be left not turned on for a while, due to the display always being on?
Hey John, that is a reasonable concern about that fuse. It is drawing some power all the time. Do you leave your rig sitting for long periods of time?
Thank you!
Alternator failed on me so upgraded to cs144.
You're welcome.
Great video guys! I just did mine today and this helped. Thank you! Any plans on a video install of dual batteries?
Hey James, glad you like the video. You're very welcome! No plans any time soon to do a dual battery install but we'll probably do it at some point.
Bought everything as soon as this came out! How much length of each wire did you use? I'll just route mine the same.
If you watch the video, you'll have a decent idea of how much wire to purchase. Just err on having too much, rather than not enough and you're be good.
I WONDER IF I CAN IMPROVE MY 2003 TACOMA 3.4 IN THE SAME WAY WITH THE ADAPTER HARNESS ON THE TACOMA 3.4 IT IS THE SAME AS THE 4 RUNNER
Yeah, it's the same.
Thanks for the vid Timmy! Just did this last week. The read-out on my fuse stays on, even when the car is off. Is there a way to have the read-out stop when the car is off?
With that fuse, the readout always stays lit. I'm not sure if it's a significant draw or not. If you rig sometimes sits for long periods without moving, it might not be the best inline fuse to use.
Great video! The alternator on my Tacoma just went bad. I waa about to replace it now, then searched your playlist and came upon this video. The thing is, I need my truck tomorrow morning and was planning to do a simple swap out with a stock alternator.
Can I install the CS144 alternator now and upgrade the wires later, since it'll take a few days to get all the parts? I don't mind taking it all apart again. I just need to continue using my truck!
Nevermind. I would still need to purchase the swap adapter, which would take 3 days to arrive.
You have two different wires in the description do I order both or just 0 gauge ?
You would want both. There's different gauge wires needed for the project.
Great and helpful video as always
Thanks. We're glad you like it.
great vid ! Question - is the new ground wire from the block to the frame (the one by the oil filter) necessary ? what is its purpose ? the block is ground to the battery/fuse block, and the battery is ground to the body and also among components , i.e. the alternator and starter are ground by their mount to the block , yes ? I guess I’m wondering if its just redundancy ? please elaborate.
Yes, there definitely is a redundancy with that additional ground, however, with a higher output alternator, we wanted to give that additional amperage an additional thicker gauge wire for a second path of least resistance. We gotta admit, we aren’t electrical experts, but that thicker wire will give us hopefully a better ground in general.
- Sean
Thanks bro's
I always wanted to know about this !
You finally answered my question !
👍
Are you coming to the sicmods BBQ again august 7th?
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the invite !
I'm taking care of my 92 year old mom !
I wish I could !
I'll be there in sprit and soul !
Sicmods 👍
@@williamtsol636 Sorry you won't be able to make it William. Maybe next year.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks bro !
To bad you guys won't be able to see the MOST BAD ASS Taco in the world !!
😂
Any problems getting to the oil filter with the cs144 installed?
No
@@TimmyTheToolmanjust did the swap took me about 20min and idles at 13.98v
Would this exact set up you did in the video fit a 2000 Tacoma SR5 with a 2.7L?
Exact same? I'm not sure. I can't remember if the alternator mounting is the same on the 2.7 liter engine. In general it would be the same but I couldn't say it's exact.
@@TimmyTheToolman it looks pretty similar to the 2.7L but didn’t wanna end up buying everything and have it not fit right. Thanks for the swift reply, love the channel as always!
@@Tjbawlsinyomouf Yeah, I don't want to steer someone wrong by guessing. I've done some work on the 2.7 liter engine with my friend Jordan but I don't know that engine well enough to give you a definite answer. Good to hear you like our channel. If you do the mod and everything works out the same on your engine, please chime back in and let us know.
Crimp dies are stamped to correspond to wire gauge. It's not a guessing game. Those "shark fins" are a result of too small a die for the wire.
Well, maybe the kit you have has more dies available. We chose dies that would get a good crimp on the wires. We got a good crimp on the wires and that's what's important. We're not going to lose sleep over some shark finning of the cable ends. Now please, troll somewhere else. We don't have time for people who just want to nitpick us to death. You just watched a very informative video and this is all you've got for us. Pretty pathetic.
Love the vid Timmy and friends! Hopefully, you're still answering comments...
I was curious to know your opinion on whether you thought 1/0 AWG was necessary at 150 amps?
Of course, there are equations out there to know exactly what gauge to use, but seeing how you are adding to the wiring, and not replacing, I would think you could get away with less, 1 AWG most probably, possible more...?
Electricity takes the path of least resistance, however, with the *addition* to the wiring, there are now with two paths to ground, and the conversation completely changes. But very curious to know your take on things!
We're not anywhere close to being electrical geniuses. We just went with wire that we knew would suffice. Is it overkill? Yeah, probably.
tried replacing my alternator today but that sleeve is stuck in bracket. i tried hammering but failed. what size bolt and nut did you use to pull it out with that ratchet trick? i almost towed it to The shop i got frustrated ha!
I think it was an M8 bolt. Any bolt small enough to fit through the socket and long enough so you can put a nut on will work.
@@TimmyTheToolman 104, thank you timmy t
@@thomasjefferson3552 You're welcome.
Great video. perfectly executed
👌🏼 thanks bracken
any issues with changing the oil filter or anything?
No, I typically access my oil filter from below. This oversize alternator isn’t that much bigger and it doesn’t interfere with your ability to access the filter.
- Sean
Thanks for the video, very helpful!
I’m not planning on buying wire and doing the crimping so I’m wondering how much length would you suspect for the 3wires I’d need? Probably not a bad idea to throw that in the description just so viewers have another option.
Thank you!!
Noted. Glad you found the video helpful.
Great job , did u have cable measurements for all the connections ??
Sorry, there are no measurements for the cables. Sean has a body lift, which would change the measurements. You can kind of tell a rough measurement of each cable based on the run it needs to make and then just add some extra when you order your cable and connectors.
Another way of doing these terminals is to clamp the terminal in a vice or vice grips, heat it up with a torch and fill it full of solder then shove the wire in, then smash it with a hammer and chisel if you don’t have the crimping machine
Thanks for sharing your technique.
There is a specific company that sells higher amp alternators in the orginal alternator shell did you know that bro @Timmy The Toolman
didn't know this... do you have a link?
@@TimmyTheToolman www.lceperformance.com/category-s/17822.htm I was going to do the caddy alt swap....but LCE might be easier....but after this video...either one WAY easier than I thought lol...now it just comes down to price and availability. Absolutely great video! edit: The caddy alt easily most economical.
@@TimmyTheToolman let me Go Find it and I will post it for you Brother
@@TimmyTheToolman here is one of them www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=13794-220-HD1-1
@@TimmyTheToolman lce performance has a few here are the links to each first is 320amp www.lceperformance.com/High-Output-Alternator-320-Amp-1996-2002-4Runner-2-p/1080037.htm
250 amp alternator www.lceperformance.com/High-Output-Alternator-250-Amp-1996-2002-4Runner-2-p/1080036.htm
And the 160amp alternator
www.lceperformance.com/High-Output-Alternator-160-Amp-1996-2002-4Runner-2-p/1080020.htm
Hope it helps timmy
does anyone know where to connect the firewall to engine block cable? can’t seem to find it
It connects to the back of the passenger side head. You'll find it.
thank you! your videos have been helping me restore my 3rd gen i just bought!
@isaacsumera3795 You're welcome. We have tons of content for 3rd Gens, and I'm happy to know our videos are helping you restore your rig. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy could you explain the reasoning behind choosing the CS144 alternator? This should fit just fine on a 3.0 (3vze) motor correct?
Higher amp output. It's especially advantageous for those that create a larger than normal draw on their charging system. The mod was sort of pioneered for the audio industry with guys running high output amplifiers and subwoofers. In the offroad world, it's beneficial for those running lots of accessories like lights, winch, refrigerator, inverter, etc.
I don't know about your 3.0 and whether this alternator will work. Were never tried it or researched it.
Great video as always. Did you guys consider putting in a CTEK d250 (or equivalent) and a dual battery with the upgraded Alt? Thanks.
Thanks. Glad you like the video. Maybe Sean will go for a dual battery set-up at some point. That would be another cool video to make.
Thank you for the video Tim, but I am a little confused regarding the grounding side - why we are not upgrading (or adding) a cable between the frame and the chassis. I looked over the comments but I couldn't find anyone mention it and maybe its common knowledge which I am trying to understand. You have added a ground cable from the block to the frame and the negative post to the chassis, but I don't see how we are upgrading the negative side of the circuit from the post to the alternator.
Frame and chassis are synonymous terms, so I don't understand your question. There is no ground connection to the alternator. There's only a positive connection. I guess you could add a ground cable maybe to the pivot bolt and run it back to the frame or body if you want. I don't see the need though.
@@TimmyTheToolman Right, I meant to say body instead of chassis. Doesn't there need to be connection upgrade between the frame and body?
@@yoda1090 I don't think so. There's a ground that connects to the body from the negative battery terminal. There's another one that connects to the firewall from the back of the passenger side head. We upgraded the one from the negative battery terminal to body but didn't upgrade the one from the head to the body (firewall).
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Tim. Based on your results there's clearly no reason to, but just thought to ask for my own understanding. If anything, ill upgrade that connection in the back and report out if I find any difference.
@@yoda1090 No problem. Have fun with the upgrade.
Hey does anybody know the limit of voltage that the fuse block or computer can take? I’m thinking of running lithium titanate batteries and they charge at 16v+. Also am looking at getting an alternator that pushes out 15.5 volts continuous. So the alternator is regulated at 15.5 volts. I just want to make sure I’m not blowing anything up running that high of voltage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I think your question would be better asked on a forum like T4R.ORG. I don't know if you're question will be noticed here.
Hi Tim. Great video. Wish it were available when I did the upgrade. It would have saved a ton of research. I’ve been running the CS144 for about two years now and love it. This thing is a beast at idle. It provides enough power to operate the winch without being in the cab with your foot on the accelerator. I’m reading a bit on TacomaWorld about people experiencing CS144 failure after less than 2 years. No specifics on where they were purchased except one guy mentioned autozone. Apparently when the alternator fails there is little warning. How has Sean’s experience been so far? Do you know of a particular place that provides a quality rebuild? Do you know brush replacement part numbers, or how to replace the brushes? Seems like a good thing to bring on backcountry trips. Do you carry a spare alternator when you go wheeling?
We have heard about the CS144 aftermarket alternators failing on people. Not sure on what brands people had but an expensive option for a quality aftermarket higher output alternator is DC POWER ENGINEERING. The nice thing about DC Power is the overall size of the alternator is similar to an OEM unit. The CS144 is much larger. Alternators can definitely fail without warning and from personal experience, as soon as it starts to go, you got a couple miles tops before your truck won’t stay on. My experience so far on my CS144 has been decent. It’s a little loud compared to stock but it hasn’t failed yet. Do you need replacement brushes for the CS144 or for a stock alternator? Tim does bring an extra alternator on trips. I think it’s a good idea but it’s also nice to wheel with the same generation truck so one person can bring this, and you bring that because the possibility that everyone has a failed alternator at the same time is rare, but if 1 person has one it can save the whole group.
- Sean
Thank you for this very clear and easy to understand presentation! I’m planning to upgrade my 5th gen 4Runner with big 3 or 4 and I’m hearing that some people are running the 1/0 wire from the alternator to the fuse box and ground from alternator to battery as well. Do you feel this would be beneficial? Thanks,
Hey Andrew. Glad you found our video helpful. I don't think those additional wire upgrades would hurt anything, but whether or not they are essential, I'm not sure.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did some follow up research and it seems like adding a pos. wire from the alternator to the fuse box unnecessary. But I viewed this Big 4 link from alternatorman; ua-cam.com/video/K3EFGlHPFDk/v-deo.html as to grounding the alternator to the neg. battery terminal and found it interesting and most likely worth doing if you would like to check it out.
@@andrewcrane3489 Thanks for the link Andrew. We'll check the video out.
Have you heard of any reviews on how the new alternator goes in water crossing compared to the stock one?
No, we haven't, but you might be able to find something about it on a Toyota forum like T4R.org possibly.
How do you turn the volt meter off when the vehicle is off? Seems like you would need a separate relay to disconnect the little ground wire.
The inline volt meter coming off the battery positive technically never turns off unless the battery dies. It’s nice to see what voltage your battery is at by just opening your hood, I have ran my other truck this way for years and it’s a quick easy indicator to see what’s going on with my battery voltage.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. I know it's such a small amount of power, but I'm worried that it will be one more small thing that slowly drains the battery. Good to know that you haven't noticed it being a problem.
Quick question from someone without much knowledge of electrical: Why is a fuse needed in-between the alternator and the positive battery post? Isn't the output of the alternator regulated?
Alternators can malfunction and send too much power to the battery. They have a voltage regulator in them that can malfunction or completely fail.
@@TimmyTheToolman Got it, so it’s protection from the failure of the voltage regulator.
I've got a good question for you. When I am driving and I hit a big enough bump but it's usually a dip in the road, I lose acceleration. It still goes but in order to accelerate I have to put the metal to the metal so to speak and sometimes the metal gets stuck down. Once I tap the pedal unstuck I have to pull over and shut my 4runner off and start it again and it's fine but it seems to be doing this more often and frequently. Any ideas?
Check the throttle cable to see how well it slides. Check the throttle body linkage to see if that's where it's getting stuck. Finally check the gas pedal and linkage to see if there's an issue there. You definitely want to fix the problem with the throttle getting stuck. It could be dangerous for you at some point. That's where I'd start.
Why the truck loses acceleration on a big dip is weird. Not sure where to start with that problem.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah I'm baffled by it as well. I have a throttle cable and I took it off and it still does it. So when I'm driving and hit a dip and I lose probably 80% power Ill hit the throttle cable button to race mode and it still has no gain or loss of acceleration and the pedal only gets stuck when I push it to the floor. I'm wondering if it has to do with the MAF SENSOR OR the wires that connects to the plug that snaps on the MAF SENSOR because I had to replace the plug because the old one fell to pieces and I had to cut and splice the new one on.?
@@nickschuldt9229 Yeah, maybe a large dip in the road is causing something to shift and you're momentarily losing a positive electrical connection. I'd examine your motor mounts because maybe the engine is able to shift and put strain on a wire harness. Check your battery and the connections to make sure they are secure and corrosion free.
This video will explain how you can check your motor mounts. ua-cam.com/video/g_4DiywsSbk/v-deo.html
Hey Timmy what service manual do you use??? The brand of it??? Haynes or?? I need to pick one up for my 98 runner
It’s an OEM Toyota factory service manual. A Haynes manual is good too.
Is there a reason to go with this option vs an upgraded oem one such as the one from power bastards besides cost. I know the are more expensive but I would prefer a more oem fit
The advantage is the increased output. If the modified OEM unit does the same thing, then there's no difference other than price.
@@TimmyTheToolman gotcha. Thanks. Great video.
I did this job earlier on my 1999 Toyota 4runner. Almost from beginning when outside temperature is low and engine is cold the charging voltage is high, it is about 15.2 volts, sometimes it might be higher if outside temperature is lower. As soon as engine warms up the voltage comes 15.2-14.7-14.2. This problem is in winter when outside temperature is low. in summer this problem practically disappears because engine warms up very quickly. Did you have in practice something like that? Also The pulley of CS-144 stays a little bit inside than stock's alternator pulley
Sean hasn't had the high charging volts thst you've experienced. As for the line up of the alternator pulley with the fan bracket pulley, I don't remember it being noticeably off. Did you put washers or a spacer on the back side of the bracket like we did to take up the gap?
@@TimmyTheToolman i measured stock alternators bracket and by this measurement i cuted on lathe whole waher. But it stays a little bit inside there is no critical difference.
@@GabeZX10 Gotcha. Sean's was probably off-center too but we never noticed it.
Why do a bunch of people use smaller oil filters when doing this upgrade? It seems like there is plenty of room.
Don't know. Maybe the longer oil filter is harder to remove with the larger alternator.
Are the new cables made with oxygen free copper?
I read thr product description on Amazon and it says it's pure copper. It said nothing about being oxygen free, so I don't know.
Going to be doing this sick mod in about a week when parts get in. The Cs144 I ordered says it's "one wire capable" will there be any differences or problems in how I wire mine up?
I don't know what one wire capable means so I'm not sure.
Any tips for alignment? I did everything on the video however the pulley is still out of alignment. Any help would be great
If the sleeve in the front side of the alternator bracket is pushed out towards the radiator to allow the alternator to sit as far forward in the bracket as possible, that's the max adjustment available. Maybe you got an alternator that's not correct.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks! I originally was sent the wrong one. Got the correct one in today and put it on however trying to find the correct washer set to make up the distance in the back has been troublesome. I think once I can figure out that combo it will be okay
@@masongoad2086 Ok, good to hear.
Am I the only one that did this sick mod and ended with an odd whine at idle RPM? Tried a new belt and tensioning loose as a goose or tighter than a Provo girl and whine still persist regardless.
We did notice that this alternator had quite a loud audible whine like you’re describing. It hasn’t gotten worse or better and belt tension on ours is in spec. it almost reminds me of a supercharger at idle comparing to an other SC’d 4runner we have.
Great video..
Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate people taking the time to comment
Maybe I missed it in the video but what was the app length of the cable running from the battery to the alt?
Don't remember. You could just get a tape measure out and figure out the approximate length. Just buy a little more than you think you'll need.
We mention lengths at the 26:00 mark
- Sean
I’ve been having issues with my 3rd gen. The battery light never comes on on the dash. Even when the ignition is set to “on”. I’ve switched the bulbs around and still nothing. I installed another alternator, it was on its way out anyway. 217k miles. I’m thinking the 3 pin connector on the back of the alternator isn’t working correctly?
Why are you worried about the battery light? It's only supposed to come on to alert you of a charging issue. As long you're getting a proper charge from the alternator, you're good. Use a multimeter and check the charging volts at the battery when the engine is running. You should be charging somewhere between 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
@@TimmyTheToolman oh get that but my issue is that it never comes on. I replaced my alternator and got it tested at auto zone and they said I have a charging issue. Should’ve been more clear about that
@@DamYouSweaty OK, but with the current alternator installed, what volts value are you getting at the battery? I'm not sure why your battery light doesn't come on when you turn the key to the on position, but the important thing is whether your alternator is sufficiently delivering the proper voltage to keep your battery from dying.
@@TimmyTheToolman I don’t have a multimeter on hand but my Blutooth obd2 scanner is reading 14.2 - 14.3 v and the ac running and all accessories are on
@@DamYouSweaty That means you're good then. I suggest you invest in a multimeter. They are very affordable.
So you left the orginal positive and ground and added a thicker positive and ground with the orginal positive and negative 🤔 @Timmy The Toolman
Yes, exactly.
@@TimmyTheToolman how has that been doing so far for Sean
@@AntonioClaudioMichael It's been fine so far. He hasn't really put a heavy load on it yet though.
@@TimmyTheToolman good to know seems a ton easier then ripping all the old wiring out and re wiring the positive and negative I like it
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Yep, it is. It's the way this mod is done. Wires are added in parallel and no wires are removed.
Why not the AD244 with internal fans? Much neater appearance.
We don't know if this alternator works as well as the CS144 fitment wise with the 3.4 liter V6 engine. Do know of people that have used this alternator with the 3.4 liter engine?
@@TimmyTheToolman The whole idea is to make the customer satisfied. What I suggest is coincidental.
hey guys, how is this improvement going so far along the time you did it? i have heard this alt swap ends being a real headache, some of the owners i know they says ecu becomes problematic once you change Alt, that's my concern
So far so good. No issues. What are the ECU problems you've heard people having?
@@TimmyTheToolman hey, there's the guy from i bought mine 3rd gen, used to get troublesshooting, deals about idling and batt charging and some electrical deals from lights, i traveled 4 states to gives the thumbs up on one of a couple of 3rd gen bringing home this lovely 97' 4wd auto sr5 i own right now, i was interested back in July and both owners told me the same, unfortunately, i went with SR5 insted of 96' LTD 4wd from that girl, this may takes sense once she installed a bulb connector and bulb as witness, she barely fitted an electric seat swap from a ford suv in that 4Runner, idk, hey!! i'll be leavin you a question about fuel float, on the fuel sending unit replacement, sorry bout my over sophisticated english, thanks for your support on each vid bro
Timmy, is the benefit worth it to do the wires only?
Yes, I think so if you're running a lot of accessory things. From what I've heard, the Big 3 upgrade got it's popularity in the Audio World. People running subwoofers and amps needed a more efficient flow of power. You should do some research on it to learn more about it.
Hey Tim. I have watched this video a couple times and it's top notch as usual. I've done a fair amount of research on this topic and I'm positive I want to upgrade some wiring, but still on the fence about upgrading the alternator. I'm just a little confused on one thing. Is the starter to battery cable also part of the Big 3 job? I keep seeing that on various threads but didn't see it here..I'm not electrical savvy whatsoever so just wanting to know if that would benefit me in any way.
Hope the SICMODS BBQ is a blast for you guys! If you keep it going in the future I hope to make it someday!
You fellas are awesome, keep up the great work PLEASE!
Cheers, Ben
I should also add why I'm asking about this particular cable. My 97 3.4 is pretty sluggish to start. New battery, spark plugs, and wires. New refurbished oem starter also. No codes, runs good. Just a long, sluggish start. Didn't know if a new cable would help possibly. Anyway, I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks!
The starter to the battery isn't usually part of this job. This upgrade is about increasing the efficiency of the charging system and the starter to the battery really isn't part of that. I would make sure your battery is good because maybe a weak battery is the cause of the weak starting. We will keep the videos rolling. Good luck with the job. Sic Mods and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Okey dokey I will check that battery, thanks again!
@@benzoil0453 No problem.
Awesome Timmy! What about a grey wire mod video?
Doubt will make that video. We pretty much cover it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/qAznG_WoS44/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you
I need to know what that black with orange tip pointer you're using is. I feel like it's some kind of pencil that you also use as a pointer. I love that. The bright orange tip makes it so easy to see wtf you're talking about and I could use it too when explaining to people what's going on.
that is called a spudger or commonly called a "black stick". It is typically used when working on computer components. It is a hard plastic which won't transfer and static electricity to your circuit board or whatever electronic component you're working on. we just painted the tip with an orange paint pen.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you sir
@@cmart9240 Here's a link in case you'd like to buy some. amzn.to/35c6GCc
@@TimmyTheToolman Oh that's bad ass, just added it to my shopping list on amazon. Thank you sir!!
@@TimmyTheToolman you wouldn't by chance have spare parts would ya? I need both front fenders for an 01 sr5, non limited non sports model lol.
Would this upgrade work on the 1998 4runner 3rz?
We haven't tried this on the 3RZ engine but I suppose it could work.
Will that altranator work on the 3.0 on a 2nd gen 4runner?
No, it won’t.
Great video. I have the CS144 installed but didn't actually add the upgraded wiring when we did it a year ago.
Assuming I wanted to do the same wiring upgrade as shown on my 2000 4runner SR5, can you list the approximate lengths of each wire? I want to have my car stereo guy make some for me. I don't need to add heavy duty crimpers to my tool box.
Thanks
Sorry, but we don't have those measurements for you. We never measured the cables we made. For a pretty minimal tool investment, you could make your own cables and cut out the middle man.
Just did mine and it's doing 14.9v on cold start then it drop to around 14.7v to 14.6v with a new battery Is this normal?. I saw another UA-camr doing 15.3v that's crazy.
Sean here - I’m getting about 14.1-14.3. If your volts stayed at 14.9, that wouldn’t be good. The UA-camr getting 15.3 would actually be bad, it would overcharge the battery and burn it up prematurely. 14.6 is fine, let us know if it dips under load, the higher output alt is suppose to keep a normal voltage even with a lot of accessories.
@@TimmyTheToolman The alternator had a bad Voltage regulator they sent me a new one, its all good now :) .
@@MarreroBuilt Good to hear Ricardo.