Hey man, I'm the guy with the thread on zilvia who came up with the valve spring idea. Super glad it worked for you. Seems like your design turned out even better than mine! The down rev rattle I think could be solved with a more compliant driveshaft, a carbon fiber one specifically. Anyways glad that helped!
Thanks for the thread! I never would have thought to use valve springs without that thread. Or that it was a transmission mount issue. Thank you for the leg work!
@@Taylordrifts I'm gonna link your video in my thread and I'm also gonna try welding the springs to a plate instead of the through bolts I used. Mine gets rid of the vibes free revving but not under load. Yours seemed to work better. I think we're zeroing in on something that may actually take care of 90% of the nvh with these setups.
@@canadians14sr20det Which thread is this? I'm on zilvia a lot and don't recall. I'd be curious the final design of the mount, as TR's video didn't show the completed piece very well. Not knockin ya TR, just a shot or two of the "this is what it looks like mounted" would've been rad! EDIT: found the thread. zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=627546&page=2&highlight=CD009
The grinding on deceleration is input shaft sideload dude, yes the mount made it quieter but you've just masked the problem.. please check your adaptor plate!
@@Theoloop I have seen them. The engine did the same thing on free rev. And with the clutch pressed in. I plan to have the clutch balanced when I pull the car apart. Or switch to a different trans entirely. But for now this will save some strain on the car keeping everything from vibrating brutally.
If i remember correctly Greg from Car Passion channel had the same issue with his mx-5 running a bmw transmission. He went through several driveshafts and driveshaft adapters, he tried a different trans in it, tried a different adapter and i cant remember what solved the issue, but his seemed way worse.
Hey Taylor, I like your idea of using valve springs as a vibration damper, although you were taking a big risk as springs can cause more problems then they solve in relation to resolving vibration problems, as spring have a natural resonance that when reached can cause the spring to behave erratically. If you find that there are still vibrations at a certain amount of revs then you have hit it's natural resonance, if this is causing problems make a new bracket like the one that you took off originally and make it five or six times thicker and where the bolt holes are enlarge the amount of metal to take a RMBB (Rubber to Metal Bonded Bush), insert these and bolt up though them to the gearbox. This is not teaching you to suck eggs but me just passing practical industrial knowledge on, gained from solving these sort of problems.
Agreed. The rest of his vibration issues are from the hard mounted exhaust and he could probably reduce it even further by putting in some super springy motor mounts. Problem is, he wants to drift it, so some things need to be on a hard or more rigid mount. So, there's always gonna be a little bit, especially at lower RPM's
@@jsomething2 It's worth noting that the severity of an engine's secondary imbalance is influenced by a number of factors, but a large one is the rod to stroke ratio. Everything else being equal, a higher rod to stroke ratio will result in a smaller vibration and a smaller r/s ratio will result in a larger vibration. The K24 has a rod to stroke ratio of 1.54:1, which is extremely low. So without balance shafts, the K24 can be expected to vibrate a lot.
Bro you are my favorite car YT channel. Over cleetus over tavarish any of them. Bro you do all the work yourself, in house and...AND....you FINNISH your projects. I am so tired of getting into a YT project series that just dissappears into another project and we never hear about it again. Thank you so much for doin you and please dont change.
Love seeing k swaps in everything being a Honda guy , but also remember you did the k20 oil pump in the k24 That eliminates the balance shaft that was in the stock pump . That causes a lot of vibrations . We notice it all the time when we do the oil pump swaps, even in a Honda just buy doing that it vibrates a lot more .
I'm seeing turbos mounted to the motor. Hard piped to the IC which is solid mounted to chassis. Any direct connection from motor to chassis/frame will make vibration. Try some flexible pipe to IC to see if some of the vibration noise goes away. Or bypass the IC just to see. I mean hear. You know what I mean. I had a motor mount sag and the stock exaust manifold was touching upper control arm bushing stud. It was loud and took a long time to find. I thought I had an issue with my motor. Scary. The sound could not be isolated and it was louder in the cab than the engine bay. It radiated from everywhere. I found it when not looking for it. Doing a bushing R&R. It was such a relief to have that awful noise out of my life.
@@steffentysnes5302 those are to seal. They don't flex. THe outer part of the band is metal connecting metal to metal. Not only will it generate vibration, even if just a little, it will eventually take it's toll on those handmade bends.
@@steffentysnes5302 It want there when I replied. Not sure what happened. I even went to the vid and looked in the comments. Lol. I deleted my other comment.
Taylor, if you want to solve some of the interior rattle, heres a tip. You can use a some wave generator app on a phone, slide the frequency till you constantly hear the rattle in some area of the interior, locate the rattling panel and fix it up.
We fought vibrations forever with my buddy’s f body. One of the more frustrating headaches to have, especially for a street car. I hope you get it all figured out! For us, getting rid of poly mounts and using stock style softer rubber at the trans and engine did the trick, along with better exhaust clearance (a really difficult task on a 4th gen). The softer rubber means it’s now a wear item…gotta check them so often. We checked engine/trans dowels, flexplate balance, driveshaft, pinion, u joint, everything we could think of!
It still worries me that the vibration is impacted by clutch engagement position. Something is not right with the balance or alignment of those components.
I was thinking about the pilot bushing and input shaft size. ? If it's getting out of alignment after installation then it's gotta be that I'm thinking or maybe imput shaft isn't long enough to fit inside the pilot bushing?
@@michaelluberto1181 i know exactly what you’re talking about I had the same issue with my 2jz/cd09 mustang I didn’t align the disc and the pressure plate properly an I was in a rush. it splined into the disc but didn’t line up with the pilot bearing and when i tighten the bolts on the bell-housing I pushed the pilot bearing into the crank. Which meant my input shaft wasn’t being aligned by anything But all that does is create “clutch shutter” that I only felt coming out of gear never while driving. But that’s just application. Like Taylor said it seems to be k series to rwd transmission issue
the exhaust mount you made that just bolts to the bottom of the car with no soft mount be tween will transfer any engine rpm in to the cabin have a look in to that
Btw cloth tape is generally used for interior harnesses as it is quieter when slapping on car body for loose wires, but it does look and feel great : )
I've been watching since the old 2 car garage and when the 2nd engine block went in the Miata when it was still turbo. Be amazing to see the progress from then to where you are now. Especially that even though you have multiple vehicles they all have a purpose and are not just bought to make content.
i found if you just get a socket that fits on the valve collar, and just tap (no smack) the socket with a hammer the collets will bounce into the inside of the socket. also, if you dont have compressed air, stuff some parracord in the spark plug hole and then compress it with the crank and lock the crank, doesnt work as good as air but still effective in a pinch
I can tell you it's better because I could hear you in the car.🤘🤘 That's an... interesting idea. It's cool to see it work. You might want some sort of "limiter strap" or a way to keep the trans from going anywhere in case a valve spring breaks. I'm not sure how to do that though.
Try filing the top inside of the gear nob 'for the noise' with sikaflex or ultra black silicon. May need too hog it out a bit but works on the old Riggs sika works best
Try checking your rotor disc for the death wobble, this is just a suggestion because I can’t remember if you used a drill press to drill the holes for the hub and have them balanced ..... as I said this is just a suggestion
Good job, I am not a fan of wiring at all but you have got it looking nice. One thought, would it be better to wrap all the little offshoots of wiring from the plugs back to the main loom then the main loom, that way you can go over all the little ends.
I'm glad it is so much better! But the difference with where the clutch pedal is could be a couple thousandths of misalignment where the adapter plate is.
@@Taylordrifts before or after fixing the trans mount? The solid exhaust may be some of what's left, and the trans mount was so bad you couldn't feel a difference before. I have a few cars come in with nasty vibrations that ended up being the exhaust touching the body.
You should go to Swag Off-road and get you a machined thumb knob for the bottle jack release on your press. It's one of those things you'll wish you had a long time ago. Once you drop that pump handle on the split end, you'll see why.
A lot of your brackets could be made from box or angle iron as we call it in Australia Stronger, looks nicer and less weld/bend. Steel is cheap here relatively what’s it like in USA
Just a little tip I found out on my S14, sounds like your shift knob is vibrating make that rattle noise. If yours has a o ring on it like mine did, replace it with a thicker one and it will go away. That's what I had to do with mine but it was alot louder than yours is.
Hi Taylor, if you plan on keeping the spring set up long term consider modifying the design slightly so the springs are bound using a cup rather than being welded. The weld will alter the fatigue properties of the spring slightly and may cause a them to fail in the future. Great idea using the springs, i would never have considered that.
Yeah I’m going to change it up. Maybe slightly stiffer springs and a different cross bar. This was just what I had on hand. They will need to be welded otherwise when it bounces the trans can pop up. I was going to do that for the top but decided against it.
@Taylor Ray It was a great first iteration, the springs fatiguing may not become an issue for quite a while. There might be a way you could have a male and female side of the transmount where the base of the transmount is the female side and on top has guide rods preventing the springs from coming out. Happy to draw it up if you want further explanation. This way you wouldn't have to weld the springs.
Taylor, Where your shifter meets the top of the tunnel is there a mount plate attached to your shifter? If so you might be a able to try rubber isolator washers to separate the mount plate? Try to think outside the Box?
this kseries build series was awesome we need more Kseries things. Also what size and thickness are your aluminum coolant pipes? I need to source some. Thanks, Taylor for the kickass content...
@@Taylordrifts okay, would have been nice if it was an easy thing like that 😅 But about transmission mount have u looked in to making something with the oem bmw style rubber mounts? I know they make a mount like that for zf swap in Volvo 240's 🤷♂️
Some of the other vibes you're feeling could be from the exhaust clamps rattling. Could use some "heat wrap" pieces or strips, lay the clamp on top of the exhaust wrap, pinched between the clamp and the exhaust, at all those clamps, and test drive it then. See if that helps. Scientific method, changing one variable at a time.
ok love ur vids taylor but this is the third and final time im mentioning this.. you have that air assisted power hoist for engines, i think u should figure out a system to enhance ur hand crank press to maybe use an air cylinder. it would save u so much time, and pains me to watch you keep cranking on that jack for all these little fab projects.. could save u loads of time for future FAB projects which seem to be your favorite thing anyways. GREAT VIDS.. keep it up bud!!
So the car passion channel also fought a lot of vibration issues when he put a bmw trans in his Miata. He tried basically everything so it’s worth hitting him up and see if he can give you some tips!
Hey! Idk if you tried this but check all 3 pinion angles. They should be withing 3 degrees of each other. Including the trans to the diff. Might help alot
Man, I would love to just be able to come chill and work on cars with you dude. Just watching how methodical and thorough you are makes me want to do stuff to my daily driver lol.
If you look under some old four cylinder cars especially old English ones you will find a chunk of metal hanging off the back of the gearbox on the end of a dogleg shaped bit of flat bar. This lump of metal is there to reduce vibration
👍👍👍 Like it seeing when You wrap it "like on German cars" that You use the proper "German" - Tesa tape for it😅 Love Your channel, keep going! Greetings out from GER😉
It's the diff not transmission my s14 did the same think when I put a one piece driveshaft in it. I did everything beside the diff. When I out a 350z diff in it. it fix the problem.
Taylor when someone dings his door
"you've jibbered your last jabber"
Bwahahahaha
this need to be printed on a t-shirt lmao
Hey man, I'm the guy with the thread on zilvia who came up with the valve spring idea. Super glad it worked for you. Seems like your design turned out even better than mine!
The down rev rattle I think could be solved with a more compliant driveshaft, a carbon fiber one specifically. Anyways glad that helped!
Thanks for the thread! I never would have thought to use valve springs without that thread. Or that it was a transmission mount issue. Thank you for the leg work!
@@Taylordrifts I'm gonna link your video in my thread and I'm also gonna try welding the springs to a plate instead of the through bolts I used. Mine gets rid of the vibes free revving but not under load. Yours seemed to work better. I think we're zeroing in on something that may actually take care of 90% of the nvh with these setups.
@@canadians14sr20det Which thread is this? I'm on zilvia a lot and don't recall. I'd be curious the final design of the mount, as TR's video didn't show the completed piece very well. Not knockin ya TR, just a shot or two of the "this is what it looks like mounted" would've been rad!
EDIT: found the thread. zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=627546&page=2&highlight=CD009
Is there anyway to contact you about the spring mount? Thank you in advance. //Daniel
The grinding on deceleration is input shaft sideload dude, yes the mount made it quieter but you've just masked the problem.. please check your adaptor plate!
Input shaft and unbalanced drive shaft also can be
Seen these comments all over and he hasn't been seeing them. Upvote skid's comment so Taylor sees it.
Yeah I've posted it a fair few times on his celfiro videos now, but he seems to overlook it still
@@Theoloop I have seen them. The engine did the same thing on free rev. And with the clutch pressed in. I plan to have the clutch balanced when I pull the car apart. Or switch to a different trans entirely. But for now this will save some strain on the car keeping everything from vibrating brutally.
If i remember correctly Greg from Car Passion channel had the same issue with his mx-5 running a bmw transmission. He went through several driveshafts and driveshaft adapters, he tried a different trans in it, tried a different adapter and i cant remember what solved the issue, but his seemed way worse.
Being able to see the inside wall of the welding was a really cool angle.
Hey Taylor, I like your idea of using valve springs as a vibration damper, although you were taking a big risk as springs can cause more problems then they solve in relation to resolving vibration problems, as spring have a natural resonance that when reached can cause the spring to behave erratically. If you find that there are still vibrations at a certain amount of revs then you have hit it's natural resonance, if this is causing problems make a new bracket like the one that you took off originally and make it five or six times thicker and where the bolt holes are enlarge the amount of metal to take a RMBB (Rubber to Metal Bonded Bush), insert these and bolt up though them to the gearbox. This is not teaching you to suck eggs but me just passing practical industrial knowledge on, gained from solving these sort of problems.
Taylor is so smart he’s going to solve all our K problems 😂
he's solving motor problems, he's not going to help you stop doing ketamine
@@FUCK_________googIe wtf 😂😂
Agreed. The rest of his vibration issues are from the hard mounted exhaust and he could probably reduce it even further by putting in some super springy motor mounts.
Problem is, he wants to drift it, so some things need to be on a hard or more rigid mount. So, there's always gonna be a little bit, especially at lower RPM's
@@connoisseuroftigolbitts can you guys leave the balance shafts in? cause that seems like a good idea to have.
@@jsomething2 It's worth noting that the severity of an engine's secondary imbalance is influenced by a number of factors, but a large one is the rod to stroke ratio. Everything else being equal, a higher rod to stroke ratio will result in a smaller vibration and a smaller r/s ratio will result in a larger vibration. The K24 has a rod to stroke ratio of 1.54:1, which is extremely low. So without balance shafts, the K24 can be expected to vibrate a lot.
Bro you are my favorite car YT channel. Over cleetus over tavarish any of them. Bro you do all the work yourself, in house and...AND....you FINNISH your projects. I am so tired of getting into a YT project series that just dissappears into another project and we never hear about it again. Thank you so much for doin you and please dont change.
Taylor in 15 years is gonna have his own drift racing team. Or something crazy. Dudes going places
7:41 I love the respectful attitude . Hopefully more people will start having the same train of thought
Love seeing k swaps in everything being a Honda guy , but also remember you did the k20 oil pump in the k24 That eliminates the balance shaft that was in the stock pump . That causes a lot of vibrations . We notice it all the time when we do the oil pump swaps, even in a Honda just buy doing that it vibrates a lot more .
I'm seeing turbos mounted to the motor. Hard piped to the IC which is solid mounted to chassis. Any direct connection from motor to chassis/frame will make vibration. Try some flexible pipe to IC to see if some of the vibration noise goes away. Or bypass the IC just to see. I mean hear. You know what I mean. I had a motor mount sag and the stock exaust manifold was touching upper control arm bushing stud. It was loud and took a long time to find. I thought I had an issue with my motor. Scary. The sound could not be isolated and it was louder in the cab than the engine bay. It radiated from everywhere. I found it when not looking for it. Doing a bushing R&R. It was such a relief to have that awful noise out of my life.
The clamps at the ic pipes have rubber bushings in them so that they flex and are really not at all hard mounted, otherwise, definitely
@@steffentysnes5302 those are to seal. They don't flex. THe outer part of the band is metal connecting metal to metal. Not only will it generate vibration, even if just a little, it will eventually take it's toll on those handmade bends.
I agree, that intercooler is mounted very sketch in comparison to how the engine moves
@@chuckyz2 im pretty certain my comment is still there?
@@steffentysnes5302 It want there when I replied. Not sure what happened. I even went to the vid and looked in the comments. Lol. I deleted my other comment.
Love to see you and Ben still consistently hanging out despite how busy y’all are. Real friends !!!
seeing the glow on the other side of the piece when welding was cooler than seeing the arc
Gotta love it when a plan comes together. So many K-swaps could use this trick!
So, “valve float” takes on a whole new meaning here…
Yep LOL
Transmission float 😆
Taylor, if you want to solve some of the interior rattle, heres a tip.
You can use a some wave generator app on a phone, slide the frequency till you constantly hear the rattle in some area of the interior, locate the rattling panel and fix it up.
We fought vibrations forever with my buddy’s f body. One of the more frustrating headaches to have, especially for a street car. I hope you get it all figured out! For us, getting rid of poly mounts and using stock style softer rubber at the trans and engine did the trick, along with better exhaust clearance (a really difficult task on a 4th gen). The softer rubber means it’s now a wear item…gotta check them so often. We checked engine/trans dowels, flexplate balance, driveshaft, pinion, u joint, everything we could think of!
Having a daily with vibrations driving you crazy is a sure way to end up with a different daily.
Good job figuring out the vibes buddy, so glad it's coming together
When I read the title I laughed out loud😂😂
Like, leave it to Taylor to use valve springs on a trans mount
And actually solve his issue!!!
the difference is 100% noticable in the camera shake it was bad before the valve springs pretty smooth after
The solid mounted exhaust is probably adding to it. But anything solid mounted will vibrate.
Even that intercooler looks sketch to me, way to solid everywhere
He'll yea, I can actually hear the tires chirp now👍. Thanks TRay, you taught me a new trick. Might be using this one down the road.
22:52 little red light popped up on the top left of the display. Not sure what the light is if anything, just looking out. 🤙🏼
Valve springs are in interesting choice for an isolator. Being Canadian, I would've used hockey pucks as an isolator instead lol
Of course you would.
@@ronjones-6977 bro they're so good, they're somewhere between a poly mount and solid mount
It still worries me that the vibration is impacted by clutch engagement position. Something is not right with the balance or alignment of those components.
Pretty sure youre just hearing normal twin disk chatter, but you may be right and he may need to realign his clutch.
@@Buchta179 only way to find out ride it out and see how the clutch is wearing the flywheel
I was thinking about the pilot bushing and input shaft size. ? If it's getting out of alignment after installation then it's gotta be that I'm thinking or maybe imput shaft isn't long enough to fit inside the pilot bushing?
@@michaelluberto1181 i know exactly what you’re talking about I had the same issue with my 2jz/cd09 mustang I didn’t align the disc and the pressure plate properly an I was in a rush. it splined into the disc but didn’t line up with the pilot bearing and when i tighten the bolts on the bell-housing I pushed the pilot bearing into the crank. Which meant my input shaft wasn’t being aligned by anything
But all that does is create “clutch shutter” that I only felt coming out of gear never while driving. But that’s just application. Like Taylor said it seems to be k series to rwd transmission issue
@@michaelluberto1181 All of those specs should be right since there all part of the Tf werks kit i believe
I give you props man that’s freaking badass! I love the mount!!!
Bro I’ve been watching you for years now and im still down for every video. Keep going hard mate.
I don't work on cars but I love Taylor's channel so much! Gets me hype to work on my VW wagon. He's forsure top 3 car channels in my opinion
the exhaust mount you made that just bolts to the bottom of the car with no soft mount be tween will transfer any engine rpm in to the cabin have a look in to that
Btw cloth tape is generally used for interior harnesses as it is quieter when slapping on car body for loose wires, but it does look and feel great : )
Id definitely make a second trans Mount so you can just swap it if the new set-up brakes
Taylor's fab is just beautiful. I freaking love this car lol
I can hear the turbo now, where before I could only hear the vibrations. Thats awesome man!
Love seeing Benny boi making it out to spend some time in the new shop.
I won't lie I love seeing Ben after all the days of not seeing ya boy. Anyways, good work man.
I wonder if welding on the valve springs is going to make them break, changing the hardness.
Facts
The engine bay looks so damn good. You killed it on this build Taylor. I really need to K swap something…
I've been watching since the old 2 car garage and when the 2nd engine block went in the Miata when it was still turbo. Be amazing to see the progress from then to where you are now. Especially that even though you have multiple vehicles they all have a purpose and are not just bought to make content.
i found if you just get a socket that fits on the valve collar, and just tap (no smack) the socket with a hammer the collets will bounce into the inside of the socket. also, if you dont have compressed air, stuff some parracord in the spark plug hole and then compress it with the crank and lock the crank, doesnt work as good as air but still effective in a pinch
Watching you fabricate is ASMR af!
I can tell you it's better because I could hear you in the car.🤘🤘
That's an... interesting idea. It's cool to see it work. You might want some sort of "limiter strap" or a way to keep the trans from going anywhere in case a valve spring breaks. I'm not sure how to do that though.
Try filing the top inside of the gear nob 'for the noise' with sikaflex or ultra black silicon. May need too hog it out a bit but works on the old Riggs sika works best
Try checking your rotor disc for the death wobble, this is just a suggestion because I can’t remember if you used a drill press to drill the holes for the hub and have them balanced ..... as I said this is just a suggestion
Next up, triple valve spring(dual spring with dampener) trans mount.
8:10 Good on ya. As my Pappy would say, "Never make a man's job harder than it already is."
6:20 benny boy busted ya fender!
Good job, I am not a fan of wiring at all but you have got it looking nice. One thought, would it be better to wrap all the little offshoots of wiring from the plugs back to the main loom then the main loom, that way you can go over all the little ends.
Can see all the boxes stacked up for the next build.....I so hope it's the turbo LS truck build
Got some old small block valve springs im planning on using as body mount bushings on my K5, allow some more flex
7:09 -on oooo benny boii waiting for dad to get done talk to the camera so they can go play lol all love yall
Check the tail shaft bearing in the transmission they are prone to getting wobbly and creating that vibration
Man the wiring loom really helped the engine bay clean up.
Nice work Taylor. By the way you should buy Steel-It paint for painting all your small metal parts and pieces. It's amazing.
You do great work man, and you have serious dedication! I learn a lot from watching you, and I tell my friends who I learned these tricks from:)
I'm glad it is so much better! But the difference with where the clutch pedal is could be a couple thousandths of misalignment where the adapter plate is.
Have you tried isolating the exhaust solid mount ?
Yeah I took it off entirely and nothing changed.
@@Taylordrifts before or after fixing the trans mount? The solid exhaust may be some of what's left, and the trans mount was so bad you couldn't feel a difference before. I have a few cars come in with nasty vibrations that ended up being the exhaust touching the body.
Try removing the solid exhaust mount , that will definitely be contributing to the vibration. I had the same issue in my s13
Hey taylor i noticed the only thing thats really rattling now from my perspective is the shifter
What about a polyurethane bushing or "washer" on between trans mounting plate and transmission. Or between cross member and car frame/ Chassis
I had rubber washers there. It helped but now much and the bolts would come loose.
You should go to Swag Off-road and get you a machined thumb knob for the bottle jack release on your press. It's one of those things you'll wish you had a long time ago. Once you drop that pump handle on the split end, you'll see why.
A lot of your brackets could be made from box or angle iron as we call it in Australia
Stronger, looks nicer and less weld/bend. Steel is cheap here relatively what’s it like in USA
Try Tesa’s cloth tape on your wiring. Works really well.
Wow, nice fix Taylor! Regards, Nico.
Just a little tip I found out on my S14, sounds like your shift knob is vibrating make that rattle noise. If yours has a o ring on it like mine did, replace it with a thicker one and it will go away. That's what I had to do with mine but it was alot louder than yours is.
Wearing my Sandy shirt and missing the shop foreman.
it isnt the same without The Sands around..
Hi Taylor, if you plan on keeping the spring set up long term consider modifying the design slightly so the springs are bound using a cup rather than being welded. The weld will alter the fatigue properties of the spring slightly and may cause a them to fail in the future. Great idea using the springs, i would never have considered that.
Yeah I’m going to change it up. Maybe slightly stiffer springs and a different cross bar. This was just what I had on hand. They will need to be welded otherwise when it bounces the trans can pop up. I was going to do that for the top but decided against it.
@Taylor Ray It was a great first iteration, the springs fatiguing may not become an issue for quite a while.
There might be a way you could have a male and female side of the transmount where the base of the transmount is the female side and on top has guide rods preventing the springs from coming out. Happy to draw it up if you want further explanation.
This way you wouldn't have to weld the springs.
I love it when a plan comes together
Taylor, Where your shifter meets the top of the tunnel is there a mount plate attached to your shifter? If so you might be a able to try rubber isolator washers to separate the mount plate? Try to think outside the Box?
thinking out side of the box, I like it!
this kseries build series was awesome we need more Kseries things. Also what size and thickness are your aluminum coolant pipes? I need to source some. Thanks, Taylor for the kickass content...
I would venture the balance shafts being gone have a lot to do with this issue
What about an exhaust rubber hanger? would that help?
Just going to write that myself, that midle mount looks to be a ratle maker 😅
Wouldn’t hurt.
@@MrSv90 I took it off entirely and nothing changed.
@@Taylordrifts okay, would have been nice if it was an easy thing like that 😅
But about transmission mount have u looked in to making something with the oem bmw style rubber mounts? I know they make a mount like that for zf swap in Volvo 240's 🤷♂️
Very clever solution
Some of the other vibes you're feeling could be from the exhaust clamps rattling. Could use some "heat wrap" pieces or strips, lay the clamp on top of the exhaust wrap, pinched between the clamp and the exhaust, at all those clamps, and test drive it then. See if that helps. Scientific method, changing one variable at a time.
Next we need a Benny boy shirt maybe with a picture of his Miata
That camera angle in the car is my favorite
ok love ur vids taylor but this is the third and final time im mentioning this.. you have that air assisted power hoist for engines, i think u should figure out a system to enhance ur hand crank press to maybe use an air cylinder. it would save u so much time, and pains me to watch you keep cranking on that jack for all these little fab projects.. could save u loads of time for future FAB projects which seem to be your favorite thing anyways. GREAT VIDS.. keep it up bud!!
This man is going places
So the car passion channel also fought a lot of vibration issues when he put a bmw trans in his Miata. He tried basically everything so it’s worth hitting him up and see if he can give you some tips!
Some ingenuity right could see the back of the weld moving across as he did it first class
Hey!
Idk if you tried this but check all 3 pinion angles. They should be withing 3 degrees of each other. Including the trans to the diff.
Might help alot
Please send JH a link to that fireproof loom... LOL
Man, I would love to just be able to come chill and work on cars with you dude. Just watching how methodical and thorough you are makes me want to do stuff to my daily driver lol.
Same here but honestly I’m no where near the skill this man has when it comes to working with cars lol
Same here but honestly I’m no where near the skill this man has when it comes to working with cars lol
Cars dope! Try removing that middle exhaust hanger and see if the vibration is better.
I love Bens reaction
It would be interesting if you could get a go pro down there to see the mount in action. I wonder how much those springs are moving around?
If you look under some old four cylinder cars especially old English ones you will find a chunk of metal hanging off the back of the gearbox on the end of a dogleg shaped bit of flat bar. This lump of metal is there to reduce vibration
Thank you for the tip! Do you know or what specific car and model I can google to look up the transmission?
@@dohc1974 Ford escort 1967 or so Hillman Hunter you will also see a similar thing on some differentials
@@anomamos9095 thank you!!
Hey Taylor!
This cover plate for your harness may be an issue because of all dirt and mud that will stuck and decompose in there, watch out for that
I really wanted to see a close-up on how that trans mount works. I was waiting for it and then you went on a drive 😥
Seems really convoluted to use springs.... what about good old fashioned rubber? Same for the exhaust.
You should put those metal window covers up
On the shop
👍👍👍
Like it seeing when You wrap it "like on German cars" that You use the proper "German" - Tesa tape for it😅
Love Your channel, keep going! Greetings out from GER😉
It's the diff not transmission my s14 did the same think when I put a one piece driveshaft in it. I did everything beside the diff. When I out a 350z diff in it. it fix the problem.
The wiring looks great 👌🏼
Whats the paint scheme for the Cefiro? Always looking frwd. to your videos. Thank you Taylor!
I’d soft mount that inter cooler.
Jibber Jabbering is a way of life!! Yet another t-shirt!!
I had a bad o ring on my 89 mustang that stared a fire and the only thing that got burned was the wiring harness
Which oring
You literally post right when I’m getting in bed, I got work in the morning bud! Dang it!
I really like the no music!