What you can do too is when you tear down one side of the drum brakes in the rear, leave the other side together so that if you forget where things go you can walk over to the other side and use it as a referance point.
This was a huge help. After struggling with a repair manual most of the day I went to you tube. Where I found your video and had it back together in less then an hour. Thanks so much.
+allen H Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I appreciate mechanics that post these videos. Im someone that lost trust in the auto industry and auto service industry but if I lived in the area id use 1A.
Okay, I have done a ton of brake jobs over the last 40 years. The methods and techniques in the video are perfectly fine. But just a couple of things: (1) you rarely have to replace any hardware parts, just clean them up a bit. Even the stuck adjuster wheel, put the adjuster in a vise, tap it with a hammer, and use a vise grip to grab the knob and break it loose. Failing that, heat the knob and it will come loose from the adjuster. (2) This is really important - never, never, never put on new brake shoes without rebuilding the wheel cylinders or getting new ones. Reason: residue builds up inside the wheel cylinder behind where the seals move. As the shoes wear, the seal move outward. When you put on new shoes, you push the seals farther back and the seals now ride over the residue, which grinds the seals and in about a month they will leak. Then you have to take everything apart all over again to fix the wheel cylinders. (3) be careful about the dust inside a rear drum brake. Most rear brakes are no longer made from asbestos, but if the shoes were replaced with parts from foreign countries, they could be made with asbestos.
I was having trouble removing the rear break drums from a 1994 chevy pickup. After watching (with shock) the hitting it with a sledge hammer...was thinking that's crazy. But worked like a charm after spraying with WD40. Thanks a lot.
If you don't do this every day, do one side at a time, use the other for reference....ask me how I learned this...the hard way instead of listening to an old time mechanic. Easy enough job, but take your time and do it right. Also, I found most hardware kits do not include the adjuster pieces (those are separate kits), and the wheel cylinder plungers are nearly impossible to find, and not included in the hardware kits, nor is the parking brake bar (that goes between each shoe), so clean and reuse them if possible. My 86 K10 pick up didn't have the adjustment plug in the rear, so I drilled and routed out one, and found some old plugs, made life a whole lot easier. Also, make sure you purchase the correct size brakes for your vehicle. These old square body trucks have two different sizes that I'm aware of.
I'm major screwed now, I took the emergency brake lever on the spring, and just spent 6 hours laying on the driveway cement in cold weather trying to get the lever back on the spring, and still can't get it back on with even with my wife helping. Had a 4 lever lumbar surgery 4 months ago and major strained torn muscles my lower back and every tendon in my wrists and hands are extremely strained. Spring on emergency cable is to strong to pull back to put the lever back on. Gave up after 8 hours, never been so pissed off in my entire life. I'm a former auto-mechanic instructor, multiple certifications in ever area of auto repair. The old saying: God and all his angles would have a hard time with this one. I may just call a tow truck to take this truck off my driveway, That's how pissed off I am.
This is an awesome video. I am a female that like's doing my own repairs. I don't like getting my hands dirty, but like the cost of doing it myself. I found it easy per your video to remove the pads, but I'm finding it harder to pull the springs back into place with vise grips. I broke my left ring finger back in Jan of 2014. It's a still weak, I slammed it shut in a car door, ouch!!! Would you have any other advice as to make it easier for me to get springs back on. You are awesome for taking the time to make this video. Thanks, Beth J. Smith
nice video, explained it very well, thank you again for an awesome video. I will definitely watch your videos again on jobs i need to do on my truck and jeep and will be buying my parts from you from now on. thanks again
The repair kits they sell are color coded - but lack instructions. Removing and keeping the old brake setup 'as intact as possible' helps (so does only doing one side at at time). They sell a 'spring only' kit which does not include the adjuster pieces, since my setup was actually missing the small spring between the adjuster piece and the shoe, I got the complete kit. Prior person also used the wrong springs - both sides were a nightmare. If the video said it, I missed it, but 'always do both sides' when doing brakes.
awesome videos. thanks. just one thing though. safety glasses. O and for others, I have found if I take a picture with my phone it helps when I put them back together.
+Lee Warneka Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
You shouldn't use vise grips on the return springs. It can put grooves on them, weakening them. That said, I used the same method a long time without any problems. But the tools are relatively cheap, no more tan $15 and less for the hold-down spring tool.
I saw the master cylinder at the top of the drum. apparently, I have a leaky one on my 97 yukon. Do you have a vid of that repair? Your vids are great, used them several times.
R u sure that the yellow spring goes on front? Shouldnt the longer green spring go on front because it doesnt have the bracket behind it and the shorter yellow one goes in back on top the bracket for adjuster?
Great video, Please show the springs the way they appear on the baking plate, mine were apart for 3 months and I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer. The pictures in the Haynes manual were pretty poor! Thanx a million for the help: Joe
Thanks for the video. For your safety, I suggest never to work on a car with short-sleeved shirts. Always use long sleeve to avoid cuts and burns. Also, it is a MUST to rinse off brake components with brake cleaner first and wear an N95 rated dust mask.
Who would down vote this? 1-A Auto posts consistently excellent videos. You will never see a set of instructions that tell you which shoe goes on back and which on front and they are interchangeable, you will not see instructions showing the steps of the most painless installation of installing the slack adjuster first to hold the shoes together, etc. Did you know the lug nut torque was 110 ft-lbs? I thought it was 90 ft-lbs for a 1/2" lug nut, glad i watched this to the end and I have been changing out shoes for fifty years. You 244 morons, let's see you do it better. You probably don't even know what a torque wrench is. Yes there are some trick tools to get those springs off and on, but show me what works better than a pair of Vise Grips for installing those hold-down spring clips. Using needle nose Vise Grips in particular provides a clear alignment view of the slot in the spring clip and the pin.
Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and the master cylinder and also the brake booster for leaks. If they look fine, you could try to bleed the brakes to see if there's air trapped in the brake line somehow. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
You should also post a link to your page for the parts used on a repair video... trying to find the drum and does on your page but I'm having a hard time doing so.
My 1997 K1500 Suburban owners manual says for all favors of Suburban to torque lug nuts to 140 foot pounds instead of 110 foot pounds. otherwise great learning video
Fantastic video but I'm stuck with a problem. In a hurry I bought an 88 G20 van because I was rear ended by an uninsured motorist. She totaled my 95 G30 and it burned up almost with me in it. My 88 G20 need rear brake work. I decided to replace everything. New hardware, new shoes, new cylinders, new drums, new parking brake cable. The problem I'm having is that the pass side brakes are over adjusting and I don't know why. I'm tempted to just go get new hardware for that side. I will watch this video again in the morning before I tear into it. I don't see where I did anything different. Any ideas?
1996 Suburban c2500 ¾ Ton HD Rear break replacement Has 13” 3” deep drums - takes 2 ½” break shoes Shoes installed but adjuster is all the way out What can I do to correct this?
Great video. I will subscribe for sure. I am having an issue with the rear brakes not self adjusting as time goes by. I have replaced all the hardware as this guy did. I even ground the wear ridge out of the backing plate from the shoes rubbing over time so the new shoes would not just sit in this grove. I greased the new shoes as he did too. The only thing I can think of is the arm that spins the star wheel seemed to be a l little loose from the star wheel. I didn't buy the the brake parts from the dealer either. I think they were Auto Zone. I am seeing in other things as well that none dealer/factory parts are close, but not exactly what you need. Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks
+kevintii Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/BrakeDrumShoeKits/Chevy/Tahoe/1ABDS00077?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&S5bwkwgQDA
I have a 1996 gmc and it doesn't have manual adjusters at the bottom . It has the self adjusters at the top right under the cylinder. making adjustment almost impossible. The same thing on my 1993 Chevy pu.
+Colorado Rockies fan 5 The easiest way would be to contact your local dealer with your VIN. Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The hub is the axle. You have to take the plate off the differential and remove a horseshoe clip to pull the axles out. Don't do this unless the seal or the bearing is obviously shot. You first must remove the brake shoes, then high pressure wash the back plate and all around the hub - clean off every bit of grease and dirt from the back plate and the spindle of the hub and the differential and area above the differential before you start this disassembly. I wash the vehicle outside, parked on concrete, and starting with the differential and then the body above the differential so I can get in and out with the least soaking, and then hit the wheel and fender well. You have to take the wheel off and then on to drive it inside (if you have a garage that is not full of junk), jack it up, put stands under it, remove the wheel and drum, wash the brake area, remove the shoe assembly, wash the back plate and the hub thoroughly - bare clean metal, and then you are ready to drain the differential, remove the differential cover, remove the horseshoe clip holding the axle and then you can slide out the axle. I have other stuff to do, you'll figure it out, but if you get any trace of grit in there you may live to be sorry you did.
+Jaime G. You could measure the size of your brake drums, or if you have your local dealer run the VIN number for you they can tell you what the truck came equipped with from the factory. Here's a link to them brake shoes that we carry for your vehicle. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/1998-chevy-tahoe-brake-shoes/y-mo-c/1998-44-254?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
+TroyOlogy We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I don't know if I'll ever get this damn thing back together. I took a picture but wasn't paying attention and the pic sucks can't see anything. I'm gonna have to jack up the other side and figure it out that way.
You have the worst camera angle can't see a thing you are doing your hands are in the way you should redo this video and try and be more cautious about what we are seeing we do not need to see your back your arms we need to see your hands inside the brake drum
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
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I’m a new mechanic, rarely see drum brakes, so glad there’s guys like you out there to help us newbies out!
You have NO IDEA how amazingly helpful this video was. THANK YOU
Hello I am Salman from Saudi Arabia benefited a lot a lot of these practical lessons, Thank you very much from the heart
What you can do too is when you tear down one side of the drum brakes in the rear, leave the other side together so that if you forget where things go you can walk over to the other side and use it as a referance point.
Not if you're poor and doing one side at a time in your driveway.
This was a huge help. After struggling with a repair manual most of the day I went to you tube. Where I found your video and had it back together in less then an hour. Thanks so much.
+allen H Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Thank you I literally walked into this job blind not knowing how to do this at all I followed your video step-by-step and everything is good now!
I appreciate mechanics that post these videos. Im someone that lost trust in the auto industry and auto service industry but if I lived in the area id use 1A.
Great video for the do it yourselfer. Kudos for using everyday tools to accomplish the job. Thanks for taking the time to educate us!
Thank you for watching!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Super hard job.
Okay, I have done a ton of brake jobs over the last 40 years. The methods and techniques in the video are perfectly fine. But just a couple of things: (1) you rarely have to replace any hardware parts, just clean them up a bit. Even the stuck adjuster wheel, put the adjuster in a vise, tap it with a hammer, and use a vise grip to grab the knob and break it loose. Failing that, heat the knob and it will come loose from the adjuster. (2) This is really important - never, never, never put on new brake shoes without rebuilding the wheel cylinders or getting new ones. Reason: residue builds up inside the wheel cylinder behind where the seals move. As the shoes wear, the seal move outward. When you put on new shoes, you push the seals farther back and the seals now ride over the residue, which grinds the seals and in about a month they will leak. Then you have to take everything apart all over again to fix the wheel cylinders. (3) be careful about the dust inside a rear drum brake. Most rear brakes are no longer made from asbestos, but if the shoes were replaced with parts from foreign countries, they could be made with asbestos.
djhmo5 I know this is old but I agree, 10 mins of work can save $50 dollars almost every time!!! And yes Always Replace the $9 Wheel Cylinder!!!!
Great video! Thanks for posting this - saved me a ton of time of trying to figure out the best order to put the springs back on.
Thank you for watching. Please let us know how the repair comes out!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I see you remembered the wave washer between the parking brake lever and the shoe. Great job.
I was having trouble removing the rear break drums from a 1994 chevy pickup. After watching (with shock) the hitting it with a sledge hammer...was thinking that's crazy. But worked like a charm after spraying with WD40. Thanks a lot.
Great video. 1A is the best. Seriously.
+oldschoolgreentube Thanks for checking us out. Don't for get to like and subscribe!
1aauto.com
Great Video! Does the same basically apply for a 97 K2500. I have the 7.4 with the heavy duty 13" drums. Thank you.
If you don't do this every day, do one side at a time, use the other for reference....ask me how I learned this...the hard way instead of listening to an old time mechanic. Easy enough job, but take your time and do it right. Also, I found most hardware kits do not include the adjuster pieces (those are separate kits), and the wheel cylinder plungers are nearly impossible to find, and not included in the hardware kits, nor is the parking brake bar (that goes between each shoe), so clean and reuse them if possible. My 86 K10 pick up didn't have the adjustment plug in the rear, so I drilled and routed out one, and found some old plugs, made life a whole lot easier. Also, make sure you purchase the correct size brakes for your vehicle. These old square body trucks have two different sizes that I'm aware of.
I'm major screwed now, I took the emergency brake lever on the spring, and just spent 6 hours laying on the driveway cement in cold weather trying to get the lever back on the spring, and still can't get it back on with even with my wife helping. Had a 4 lever lumbar surgery 4 months ago and major strained torn muscles my lower back and every tendon in my wrists and hands are extremely strained. Spring on emergency cable is to strong to pull back to put the lever back on. Gave up after 8 hours, never been so pissed off in my entire life. I'm a former auto-mechanic instructor, multiple certifications in ever area of auto repair. The old saying: God and all his angles would have a hard time with this one. I may just call a tow truck to take this truck off my driveway, That's how pissed off I am.
Yet another great how to video. Thanks for sharing you knowledge and experience.
awesome video, rear drums are always a pain but you made it look easy
Thank you for watching!
888-844-3393
1AAuto posts another valuable video, thanks gents!
Thanks for tuning in! 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
This is an awesome video. I am a female that like's doing my own repairs. I don't like getting my hands dirty, but like the cost of doing it myself. I found it easy per your video to remove the pads, but I'm finding it harder to pull the springs back into place with vise grips. I broke my left ring finger back in Jan of 2014. It's a still weak, I slammed it shut in a car door, ouch!!! Would you have any other advice as to make it easier for me to get springs back on. You are awesome for taking the time to make this video. Thanks, Beth J. Smith
nice video, explained it very well, thank you again for an awesome video. I will definitely watch your videos again on jobs i need to do on my truck and jeep and will be buying my parts from you from now on. thanks again
+carol bellinger Thanks for checking us out, glad we can help fulfill your auto part needs! 1aauto.com
The repair kits they sell are color coded - but lack instructions. Removing and keeping the old brake setup 'as intact as possible' helps (so does only doing one side at at time). They sell a 'spring only' kit which does not include the adjuster pieces, since my setup was actually missing the small spring between the adjuster piece and the shoe, I got the complete kit. Prior person also used the wrong springs - both sides were a nightmare.
If the video said it, I missed it, but 'always do both sides' when doing brakes.
Take a pic of the brakes before you start removing part's. Add grease/neverseice to the face of flange before reinstalling the drums
awesome videos. thanks. just one thing though. safety glasses. O and for others, I have found if I take a picture with my phone it helps when I put them back together.
I enjoy watching this channel. Always Excellent information! Thank you. Also I have purchased parts from 1A Auto excellent quality parts!
Awesome video, don't know why someone would dislike it? Great information and refresher course.
Thank you very much! This was well done and helped very much. I will start ordering from A1.
+Lee Warneka Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
These things are the bain of my existence. But armed with this video I can overcome and face my enemy head on.
apparently i dont have the little window in the back to adjust they self adjusted. but the video and the vise grips did help out alot
Very helpful video. Saved me money. Thank you very much.
No problem. Glad to hear it helped you out. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
You shouldn't use vise grips on the return springs. It can put grooves on them, weakening them. That said, I used the same method a long time without any problems. But the tools are relatively cheap, no more tan $15 and less for the hold-down spring tool.
I saw the master cylinder at the top of the drum. apparently, I have a leaky one on my 97 yukon. Do you have a vid of that repair? Your vids are great, used them several times.
Excellent video and very straight forward. Thank you very much.
R u sure that the yellow spring goes on front? Shouldnt the longer green spring go on front because it doesnt have the bracket behind it and the shorter yellow one goes in back on top the bracket for adjuster?
^^^^ This, the yellow smaller spring go on the rear and the longer green spring goes on the front.
Great video, Please show the springs the way they appear on the baking plate, mine were apart for 3 months and I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer. The pictures in the Haynes manual were pretty poor! Thanx a million for the help: Joe
Thanks for the video. For your safety, I suggest never to work on a car with short-sleeved shirts. Always use long sleeve to avoid cuts and burns. Also, it is a MUST to rinse off brake components with brake cleaner first and wear an N95 rated dust mask.
Thanks for watching our video! +Vincenzo TwentyThree
I'm doing some research before doing my own brakes. I've got a 97' C2500 8 lug. Is the process the same?
Great video, very helpful.
Who would down vote this? 1-A Auto posts consistently excellent videos. You will never see a set of instructions that tell you which shoe goes on back and which on front and they are interchangeable, you will not see instructions showing the steps of the most painless installation of installing the slack adjuster first to hold the shoes together, etc. Did you know the lug nut torque was 110 ft-lbs? I thought it was 90 ft-lbs for a 1/2" lug nut, glad i watched this to the end and I have been changing out shoes for fifty years.
You 244 morons, let's see you do it better. You probably don't even know what a torque wrench is. Yes there are some trick tools to get those springs off and on, but show me what works better than a pair of Vise Grips for installing those hold-down spring clips. Using needle nose Vise Grips in particular provides a clear alignment view of the slot in the spring clip and the pin.
Do you install the parking brake cable before or after you torque the lug nuts? 😀
this guy does good videos informative thanks..............
Thanks for the kind words. We hope the video helped. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Awsome video once again. I have a slight hopping with the new pads on the back. What do you suggest?
Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and the master cylinder and also the brake booster for leaks. If they look fine, you could try to bleed the brakes to see if there's air trapped in the brake line somehow. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Is there a video for replacing the rear brakes for a 199 GMC Suburban 2500 with four wheel drive? Apparently the hub has to be removed first.
thanks for your knowledge and instructions.
Thank you for watching. Please let us know how the repair comes out!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
You're a good guy
Yep now I remember why I let the back breaks go 15yrs ago...guess I'll be payin THE MAN to fix my disaster ... I'm not doin all that 😳💯💁
I have a 97 Tahoe, 2door, 4wd. My adjustment dial isnt located there. Its above the axle and there is no access to it from the back?
You should also post a link to your page for the parts used on a repair video... trying to find the drum and does on your page but I'm having a hard time doing so.
Hey Mike I got a 65 Chevy pu with drums all around still same set up??
My 1997 K1500 Suburban owners manual says for all favors of Suburban to torque lug nuts to 140 foot pounds instead of 110 foot pounds. otherwise great learning video
+Norman Gee Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Real nice job and thank you for this great video.
Question: would this be the same for a 2001 Chevy suburban?? Thanks
Is this similar to a 90-96 Caprice Wagon, Roadmaster, Custom Cruiser? Do you know that?
Fantastic video but I'm stuck with a problem. In a hurry I bought an 88 G20 van because I was rear ended by an uninsured motorist. She totaled my 95 G30 and it burned up almost with me in it. My 88 G20 need rear brake work. I decided to replace everything. New hardware, new shoes, new cylinders, new drums, new parking brake cable. The problem I'm having is that the pass side brakes are over adjusting and I don't know why. I'm tempted to just go get new hardware for that side. I will watch this video again in the morning before I tear into it. I don't see where I did anything different. Any ideas?
can you make a video replacing booster brake for chevy c1500 pick up 2wheel drive 5.0
1996 Suburban c2500 ¾ Ton HD
Rear break replacement
Has 13” 3” deep drums - takes 2 ½” break shoes
Shoes installed but adjuster is all the way out
What can I do to correct this?
Do all 2 wheel drive Tahoes of this vintage have 11" drums?
Great video. I will subscribe for sure. I am having an issue with the rear brakes not self adjusting as time goes by. I have replaced all the hardware as this guy did. I even ground the wear ridge out of the backing plate from the shoes rubbing over time so the new shoes would not just sit in this grove. I greased the new shoes as he did too. The only thing I can think of is the arm that spins the star wheel seemed to be a l little loose from the star wheel. I didn't buy the the brake parts from the dealer either. I think they were Auto Zone. I am seeing in other things as well that none dealer/factory parts are close, but not exactly what you need. Anyone have any insight on this?
Thanks
+kevintii Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/BrakeDrumShoeKits/Chevy/Tahoe/1ABDS00077?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&S5bwkwgQDA
Would this stop a leaking brake?
I have a 1996 gmc and it doesn't have manual adjusters at the bottom . It has the self adjusters at the top right under the cylinder. making adjustment almost impossible. The same thing on my 1993 Chevy pu.
Thank you video was a great help
Well done helped me
Is this good for a 92 1500 Chevy blazer?
How do you know if you have the 10 inch or 11 inch drum and pads?
+Colorado Rockies fan 5 The easiest way would be to contact your local dealer with your VIN. Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
what tool do i need to remove the hub assembly? thank you for your help
The hub is the axle. You have to take the plate off the differential and remove a horseshoe clip to pull the axles out. Don't do this unless the seal or the bearing is obviously shot. You first must remove the brake shoes, then high pressure wash the back plate and all around the hub - clean off every bit of grease and dirt from the back plate and the spindle of the hub and the differential and area above the differential before you start this disassembly. I wash the vehicle outside, parked on concrete, and starting with the differential and then the body above the differential so I can get in and out with the least soaking, and then hit the wheel and fender well. You have to take the wheel off and then on to drive it inside (if you have a garage that is not full of junk), jack it up, put stands under it, remove the wheel and drum, wash the brake area, remove the shoe assembly, wash the back plate and the hub thoroughly - bare clean metal, and then you are ready to drain the differential, remove the differential cover, remove the horseshoe clip holding the axle and then you can slide out the axle.
I have other stuff to do, you'll figure it out, but if you get any trace of grit in there you may live to be sorry you did.
16:25 funny gm left the hole closed on my 1994 k1500.
How does the brake bar go it to place you skipped that part
How do I find out what size drums I got? Or size of break shoes I'll need? I got a 98 2WD tahoe LT 5.7.
+Jaime G. You could measure the size of your brake drums, or if you have your local dealer run the VIN number for you they can tell you what the truck came equipped with from the factory. Here's a link to them brake shoes that we carry for your vehicle. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/1998-chevy-tahoe-brake-shoes/y-mo-c/1998-44-254?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
1A Auto Parts thank you 👍
my adjuster is on the top
Excellent
Thank you for watching. Please let us know how the repair comes out!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I did everything as accordingly but I cant fit the drum back on even after I tightened it ALL the way. What could be wrong
+TroyOlogy We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great! Thanks!!!
How much is the cost for this job? 2 rear sides
Between 500 and 800 dollars at a garage
Also take a picture before starting incase you forget what goes where.
how do you replace the 10" brakes
1963 Dodge Polara in the background?
I don't know if I'll ever get this damn thing back together. I took a picture but wasn't paying attention and the pic sucks can't see anything. I'm gonna have to jack up the other side and figure it out that way.
Thanks
you didn't bleed them?
PENETRATING oil
Define front shoe. Rear shoe.
how to remove the backing plate on these trucks
+Alvin Ferrand We currently do not have an auto repair video on this particular repair. Thank you for asking. 1aauto.com?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Drivers side rear
That's 6 lugs it's easy
Do the correct way and begin by removing the axles
WOULD HAVE BEEN SOOOO! SCREWED IF NOT FOR THIS VID. EVEN THOUGH I HAD THE OTHER SIDE EXPOSED I WAS HAVING QUITE THE TIME.
+Gary Bowker Thank you for your feedback! We are happy we could help.
I thought that break dust was bad for your lungs?
i hate drums,like just put discs on ffs
You're not showing s*** on there as far as close up so far as how to put the s*** on
You have the worst camera angle can't see a thing you are doing your hands are in the way you should redo this video and try and be more cautious about what we are seeing we do not need to see your back your arms we need to see your hands inside the brake drum
+agentsticks1 Thanks for the feedback!