Sam, the pipe clamps are missing from the inlet of the throttle bodies.. an air leak there will mess up the fuel air mixture as the air mass meters are upstream near the air filters
I had a Mazda Mpv that did this and it was a crack in the air inlet hose that I tried to cheap out and silicone, didn't work. Bought one $65 bucks problem gone. Had a friend car would only run in reverse or or would die, the mechanics said it was a transmission issue. Same thing, just hose issue.
Hey man great eye, I appreciate you noticing this. I removed these as I took out the MAF tubes to clean everything. My problem happened before this but I agree I'm going to clamp then up because this can easily mess things up. Thank you
He realizes what a shit job he did on that repair. Might as well buy autozone wheel covers to slap on it too if that's the quality of work that's going into this car.
@@Sylvan_dB I'd guess dumping because of the error code in the video. If the code says the CATs are at risk due to excessive fuel reaching them, the injector could be dumping.
@@sgfreak96 I doubt there is a sensor for fuel flow. Misfire just means risk of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. You'll usually get the same code for any misfire other than some cars can detect current flow aka electrical issues with coils and injectors (and lights). Instead of detecting fuel flow cars are programmed with the flow rate of the injector and by controlling the number and duration of pulses "know" how much fuel should pass. Barring a detected electrical issue, they assume the fuel is flowing, so a misfire means unburnt fuel in the exhaust.
A little over a year ago and two days after I got married, a lady with no insurance ran a red light. She was going 80mph tanking the front end of my car that I had 2 payments left on. I was very lucky to make it out of it mostly in harmed. When I was looking up how to keep the car I stumbled onto one of your videos. Sadly the car was so badly damaged it was not going to be able to be rebuilt. But your videos where an inspiration for me to never have a car payment again. I have now rebuilt 2 cars from Copart and I am working on a 3rd. I know there are a lot of people rebuilding cars on UA-cam but it was yours that helped me get past that really crappy event. Thank you very much.
lunarOutlaw thanks for sharing your story . Sorry to hear about that . Glad you took the plunge into rebuilding , I’ve been thinking of saving up a bit and buying something for learning purposes like in sam’s early videos .
Ben Mallah unfortunately she got out ran away. I had eye witnesses that put her on the scene, and the cityThat it happened in Troy New York didn’t even issue her a ticket
@@iphgfqweio This varies by state, and in every state I've lived in you have an add-on to your insurance policy to cover "uninsured motorists." This means that if the party that damaged your car has no insurance, your own insurance company covers your loss. In Florida, your own insurance covers your loss anyway, then they either deal with the at-fault driver's insurance company for reimbursement, or sue the at-fault driver if they had no insurance. In Georgia and Alabama, the at-fault party's insurance company will pay you (or the repair shop) directly to cover the damages. If the at-fault driver had no insurance, then your own policy covers you. Sorry...that went longer than I intended!
You need to watch some South Main Auto. Also get a proper smoke machine, a better OBD scanner (Autel) with bi-directional controls and a pico-scope. Playing swap tronics and firing the parts canon is not the solution here.
Compression and Leakdown test and take out the injectors and get them flow tested. Also ditch the carb cleaner, brake cleaner test. Those are useless and give false positives all the time. Do the same thing as with the cigar, except get a $25 party smoke machine. Works every time. Have diagnosed crazy complex 80's carburetted emissions vacuum weirdness with it. Good luck.
Naah... First off, if all the injectors were stuck open why would the car start? And if only one or two were stuck open, then fuel flow would increase after the engine is started, not decrease, yet there was pressure when the car was running. Besides the fuel pressure regulator and pump should have adequate flow to supply all the injectors, at 100% duty cycle and still maintain pressure. Admittedly, this is a harder task with the engine off than with the engine on, but its highly unlikely they were all open, or the engine would have been flooded.
Sounds like a couple of bad injectors at the very least or you've got a valve issue. Check the lash on the valves and run a leakdown test. The car is not happy about all of the advertising you and You Tube keep insisting on.
Sam, you have leaking fuel injectors. It is apparent on your fuel pressure test, where you turn the engine off, the pressure starts to fall pretty fast. It shouldnt fall until several minutes have passed, and even then extremely slowly. It is apparent they are stuck open, and might also be clogging issues or spray pattern issues. Keep up the good content buddy! Subbed ofc.
@@LuccianoNova all engines operate the same way bruh. Air, fuel, ignition theres simple solutions to everything and injectors are often completely ignored as if never needing maintenance
my thoughts exactly did same on my buddies 435 gran coupe. 40k miles with misfire and codes, swapped plugs and coil packs. ended up being cylinder 1 injector.
At this point i don't think he will listen. I commented about the high likelihood of the cracks growing in the last video as well. The glue is fine and all for sealing the two panels and bonding them but will do nothing when it comes to the cracks migrating.
The thing is Sam doesn't really know how to fix cars. He is just a youtube presenter now really. Anything more complicated than unbolting a part and bolting a new one on and he doesn't have a clue. He doesn't have any basic mechanical skills. If he stops making money from the video views he will dump the project and move onto something new ( while making us cringe at his sponsor mentions )
Only a few minor fixes : engine have to be rebuild, all electronics changed , transmission replaced , wheels and tires replaced , windshield replaced and body to be fixed and painted. That’s it. Oh and a small hole in the undercarriage that also made the car totaled.
Sam, I’m going to second this. Pull all of the plugs and disconnect all coil packs. Then do a compression check. They are pretty easy to do and you need to know the cylinders are actually making compression. A second thing to check is to connect a vacuum gauge while the car is running. They can help diagnose things like a burnt valve or whatever. I would go no further on swapping parts without these two tests. Last thing, the floor repair. I am a fully qualified professional welder. What you did there is just fine. The only change I would make is to smooth out the leading edge of the panel bond/ seam sealer. It wouldn’t take long to do and just brings your work up the next notch in quality.
@@bradgray1279 what would you see on a vacuum gauge with burnt valves. I had a chevy 4 cylinder . Seemed to run fine. But the engine would hesitate when car was coming to a stop. The vacuum gauge needle would vibrate severely. Thanks
There's a difference between panel bonding and a bodge job. Aeroplanes are panel bonded, last time I went on holiday my plane didn't look like that disgrace on your floor 😂
Agree. Just because a panel such as a front or rear quarter are bonded on, doesn't mean everything should be. These cars are engineered in a certain way that is beyond comprehension for a lot of people. Unfortunately that is evident in the attitude to that particular repair. Good on Sam for doing the videos and making cars like this affordable, we just differ on opinion on this particular aspect.
Why do u assume the injectors are working? For a misfire, you always check spark, ignition signal to coils, fuel pressure, injector pulse signal, and how much fuel the injectors deliver (i.e. non-working or clogged injectors)
Sprays starting fluid on exterior of Ferrari engine. Either very brave or very stupid. Lights cigar in engine bay. So THAT’S how Ferrari engine fires start!
@@mumbles005 yeah that's why I put the ? mark. I saw a video a LONG time ago where a mechanic went through all the ways to check for vac leaks. One was putting 3 psi air into it and spraying a water/soap mix. Another was spraying something, not water, that would cause the engine to stutter. Whatever it was was noncombustible because anything combustible wouldn't stutter the engine.
a misfire could be a whole slew of issues. Back in the day it was only fuel and spark and those are two of the issues to be looked at but O2 sensors, inlet pressure, barometric short and long term fuel trims, a whole slew of things will show up with a real OBDII reader. The home gamer ones only show you the most basic error (misfire) nothing in the system that could be causing it. I think it's time to take it to a Ferrari mechanic who has one of those readers.
@@kenrossaukrsa I can hear it through the video audio track. I am familiar with it because I dealt with a similar problem in my F150. What cured it was replacing all the plugs and coils. What happens is if the plugs are old, then the coils have to work harder to produce spark. You replace one plug, then the coil is worn out and you replace it. Then the next one goes and you end up chasing them all. Remember: the ecu detects a misfire, then that screws up EVERYTHING. You might even change the coil and plug on the bad cylinder and STILL get a misfire. I did that. The only thing that cured it was doing ALL the plugs and ALL the coils.
Sam, just watched this video. If you haven't already figured it out, I recommend performing a resistance check on a known good coil then check cylinder 5 and 2. If the resistance is less, your coil is bad. It will still fire BUT it is a weak spark and will cause incomplete combustion. You can also take out the plug and use a boroscope for signs of incomplete combustion (Excess carbon build up, scoring on cylinder walls) and would cause your codes in my experience. I'm no Ferrari expert but I fix a lot of cars and just did a coil pack issue in a Ford Fusion. Hope this helps if you read it! 🤷♂️
I was thinking you were on the road to success. Sorry about the misfiring stuff. Glad you're not giving up. My interest in your channel was sparked by this Ferrari. I really want to see it in mechanically good shape... so you can clean the darn thing up... I'd like to see it roaring down some country road.
Try pulling all coil plugs off to find weak cylinders, cylinder 5 on a diagnostic is not always cylinder 5 on the engine You should also compression test the engine and swap injectors around testing the power and earth to injector plug when running To have a individual misfire the problem will lie in either coil, spark plug, compression, no fuel to cylinder or no air to cylinder
First thing he should have done. Well, second after the spark plugs and swapping the coils around. It’s so telling. Hope he doesn’t need a rebuild but it would be worth it!
Firing order is 1-8-3-6-4-5-2-7 - so notice 5 and 2 are one right after another. This would be a case where doing things like a relative compression test (scoping the electrical demands of each firing event) would be a good way to test without having to get too dirty. 5 and 2 are related ONLY by firing order, and have no other common parts (separate fuel rail, intake runner, exhaust manifold). So the likely issue is related to cylinder 5, which is triggering a misfire detect on 2 possibly because the misfire event on 5 is loud enough and long enough... so looking at 5 specifically is important. I am guessing that this point that a valve may be hanging open... may have been damaged when the car was over oiled.
After replacing the spark plugs make sure you clear any dtc's stored in the pcm. Misfires will often disable the fuel injectors for the corrisponding cylinders to prevent catalyist damage. Seeing how the misfire did not move with the coils.
Hey Sam, you might check each injector coil resistance. They should have resistance in the same range. The ones that won't need to be replaced. The other thing is they could be partially blocked and need some injector cleaner. Worth trying!
You got properly stiffed on this one :( All those engine problems ( and the wrong ECU that was fitted before ) means the car was never running properly pre accident. Guessing the previous owner couldn't afford to fix it properly which is why he 'ran over a rock' to get it written off by the insurance company
Here's a couple of ideas. First off, you need to do a compression test on the engine, to determine its overall health. If it's ok, then the fuel injectors are suspect. I say this because of the bouncing pressure gauge readings that you showed us. If compression is good, remove the injectors and get them cleaned and flow tested. My hunch is that the two that are causing misfire codes are clogged.
Keep working on it SamCrac, I remember fighting the parasitic power drain on my CLS55 AMG, spend like 40 hours over 6 months fighting it and finally solved the issue. You may need to change fuel filters and have your injectors re-balanced. It is possible this is a sensor as well that is changing timing on the fly but not throwing a code, or a harness issue. in the end, very interested in the series. Go Sam!
So.....has the spark plugs out and doesn't check the basics... Compression check anyone? Pulled spark plug lead and there was a difference, indicates spark is ok. Checks for vacuum leaks, good. Fuel pressure to the rail, great. Are you getting fuel into the cylinders? Next check is pulling the injector leads and seeing if there is any change there. If not or it's a marginal change, go after your injector. Probably gunked up. Best to just pull them and get them cleaned and flowed. that will tell you if there is a mechanical or electrical problem with any of them. That's my bet.
If you are expecting methodical, educated, skilled, logical fault finding, you’re in the wrong place, if you’re looking for a waffling, clueless idiot, you are in fact, in the right place....
Dickorydock well we agree on one thing he’s a Chump.... I was born in the 70’s so millennial, no...entitled...to my opinion....yes and I prefer to learn and problem solve vehicle faults by using a methodical process of elimination.... and I have enough experience to know what I’m seeing when I watch Sam’s videos
As others said...I had this problem. Swap injectors [you can try pulling the connector if they are hard to remove] . It's the second part of any good power balance test. Also, before you declare the war over, seafoam in the tank, and spray an entire can in the intake. [check projectfarm on YT]. That's a part of every rescue vehicle SOP... Amsoil is a good substitute or upgrade seafoam.
Sounds as if your injector 3 and injector 5 are faulty and stay open when the car is running leading it to create a to much of a rich mixture and can’t burn of all the fuel leading to it being taken out on the outlet stroke. Hence the emission codes. I suggest you use a good multimeter and test for the resistance in ohms on the injectors.
@@buggy478 I dont see you car/mechanic videos you fucking scrub? Dont hate on something you cant even do. Atleast this guy can edit a video, bet you a 1000 dollars your troll ass cant even do that. Gtfo bud, you aint shit.
I watch all your videos and have learned a lot & I could use your advice. I know our car is not at the level of the ones you buy and repair but we are at our wits end right now. Our 2007 Prius has over 230,000 miles on it. We have maintained it as much as we can given the restraints of our combined incomes and had the #3 valve repaired at a dealer last year. We have had the car for a bit over a year and it is our 4th Prius, 3 being wrecked in accidents caused by other people. My girlfriend has been putting oil in it fairly frequently of late about a quart a week and she noticed oil leaking under it when parked. She put oil in it yesterday & when she drove it home it started putting out grey smoke from the exhaust. Everything I have read on line says this could be the head gasket or we may bave to replace the engine. It will take us a while to save up the money but what I need to know is the cost to do either one. Everything I have read says its better to just replace the engine. I can buy an engine but have no certain idea what the labor would be. I am unable to repair it on my own due to bad eyesight. We would like to be able to repair and sell it and get a better one with a lot less mileage. It is not a salvage car and had a clear title. We live in the SF BAY Area in the East Bay.
Hey one thing you may want to check is the injectors themselves. sometimes they can get stuck open or stuck closed causing a miss-fire. So take one of the two Known missfiring cylinders injectors and swap it with another cylinder, reset codes and check again. if the problems moves bad injector. if it doesnt move then the injector is fine. rinse and repeat with other bad cylinder. Also a cylinder leakdown test and compression test may be in order as well.
Sam, I like your attitude about the Ferrari's problems. You 'will' find the issue, it just takes time. I'm a software dev and this is so true about every issue I try to fix. We always win, sometimes it takes a day or two longer than the last. No use 'worrying', things will fail whether you want them to or not, beyond your control, roll with it and go to work.
Sam just i little hint for you to try out as it sounds like my BMW 535i which had stood for over a year with no turn over of the engine,When they stand for that long the hydrolic tappets fall flat so when the engine is running the valves do not open as far as they should,It can also be a injector valve being stuck open even when the electric is off so you end up with cylinder float or flooding of the pot.Pull one of the plugs out after cranking the engine and see if the piston looks wet.If so your injector will be dribbling rather than spraying a mist.
Propane will do the same thing and it does not damage paint, electrical nor rubber hoses. And it leaves no residue like starting fluid and carb cleaner
To all you guys suggesting different things: carb cleaner is the best option, it's what professional auto techs use. It will not start fires. Never heard of that EVER. Starting fluid WILL start fires. Brake cleaner will damage 02 sensors. WD-40 may work but will make a huge oily mess. Propane will work but not if there is much airflow, it will blow away before being sucked into a vacuum leak. So again, I say CARB CLEANER.
Others are suggesting a leaky/stuck open injector. To test for a leaky injector, you would clamp off any return line (going back to the tank) in the FI system, build fuel pressure briefly, turn off the ignition. Fuel pressure should hold for 20-30 minutes. Usually with a leaky injector, the fuel pressure drops almost immediately to zero. However, this will almost always cause cylinder flooding and hard restart until the fuel evaporates. So, I don't think that is it. It could be the opposite - a poorly flowing injector causing a lean miss. In that case, pull the electrical plug to the suspect cylinders' injectors. If there is no change in the idle, that would support this a problem with the injector or its electrical supply. A noid light plugged into the injector harness plug is used to detect the latter. Good luck.
Hey Sam. It is the intake gaskets as part of the overall problem. Had to help friend change his years ago. Little over 7 hours and we were meticulous and kept everything sparkling clean - surfaces, gloves, tools etc. Just replace all the gaskets and just not the ones that are bad. He had misfires on 7, 5, and 2 that came up. Some gaskets were showing "failure in process" also. So we went ahead and just did them all. Seems to be fairly common and the Achilles heel in that engine due to age. I would advise that you include the use of Hylomar blue on the surfaces. Makes the repair bullet proof. Have been using the blue for decades and never had a failure. Hylomar comes out of Aerospace field and been around since the 40's. Perfect for gasket surfaces. If you don't have hylomar then BUY some!!! Will be best friend on ANY intake/Carb system you touch. You can get the solvent containing or non-solvent variety. Follow directions for either, but note they are different as to handling. Anywho, you will also should change that pesky oil intercooler while you are under there also. Another weak link. Usually susceptible to corrosion and neglect and easy to get to while you are under there. Last little tidbit....change the coolant hose buried under there also. Yeah you could risk the last two but with 3 to 4 hours to get in there....it makes sense to change it. That solved the engine problem and codes never came back. The only thing is that you have raw fuel going into your Cat so I may suspect a drooling injector or one that is performing poorly. Since we only saw lean codes (excess air) I am certain you have more of a fuel issue in addition to gaskets. Certainly you have gaskets that have or are ready to bite the dust in there as most of the 360s are blessed with this experience at some time or other. A pain in the @#$%$%#$%$ for certain....BUT at least it is NOT an engine out process. All can be done from above with patience, time, and yes....a little kind persuasion and choice words to let your 360 know you love it......hahahahaha. Keep up the great work....it's all coming together nicely! Almost there!! hope that helps...not a master but a decent DIYer right there with ya. Best
short drive >>> major repair short drive >>> major repair short drive >>> major repair short drive >>> major repair short drive >>> major repair short drive >>> major repair short drive >>> major repair welcome to owning an over-priced foreign exotic
Samcrac the floor panel is fine, the only thing different thing I would of done would be to drill the ends of those cracks and tares. Cracks and tares love to travel in metal. Drilling holes in the end of them spreads out the force from pinpoint pressure to a more radial one which will stop them from traveling any further do to vibrations or flex stress.
Had very similar problem on cylinder 1, tried new spark plugs, swapped coils, new ignition coil, checked intake manifold, new intake manifold gaskets, checked fuel injectors, swapped fuel injectors, checked compression, all good. One last thing before going into engine was checking lifters and rockers. And there was my problem. Replaced cylinder 1 rocker and lifter and all good. CHECK LIFTERS AND ROCKERS before you use new parts!
SaltyTubers has great advice: check the injectors. I had an injector get stuck open on one of my vehicles and spray fuel constantly. The initial diagnosis was a misfire and a very, very hot catalytic converter. My fuel pressure rail would not hold pressure which led me to investigating the fuel injectors. Best of luck!
Oh yeah. And by the way. Panel bond is good stuff. We use it in our shop and it's used In all newer vehicles extensively. It's even part of OEM repair procedure for most late model vehicles.
Sam I only found your video's two days ago but I'm addicted . I started working on cars three years ago even though I was 39 at the time. I bought a 2001 Monte Carlo SS it was a limited edition performance package with the 3800 engine. I paid 425 $ for it plus it was 90 miles away so I had to rent a Dolly to tow it home. It had a lot of issue's. So of course I started looking for a donor car. I found one. It was an 04 SS with 200 thousand miles on it . I paid 400 for it and the guy dropped it off in my driveway. All the parts that I needed for the 01 where on the 04. The car is now my summer daily driver. Its only got 81 thousand on the motor and drives like a beast. I've been learning how to paint now too so it was my first full car paint job ( I practiced on a couple of bike tanks I got at the scrap yard first). It turned out OK but I'm going to re paint it before the summer is over. I did all matte black with the bumper, rocker panels and part of the front bumper a gloss orange. This winter I'm going to pull the motor and replace all the seals and install a super charger I got from a Pontiac at the scrap yard. Its been a fun and crazy three years. I've learned a lot for very cheap. Thank you for your video's. Their a great watch. Plus I now know about COPART and there's a yard about 90 miles away. My wife is already getting nervous. Can't wait to see your next video. Best of luck with your future buy's.
I can't stop thinking about that floor repair. This is a green Ferrari convertible. It deserves better. Hell, even the pizza car would deserve a better fix.
If you want to test the injectors before removing them theres a $30 tool that lets you do it while they are still installed. its a All Sun EM276 Injector tester. You simply pressurize the fuel system with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, you then hook the tester to the injector wires and pulse it. by doing so it will drop the fuel pressure a few lbs. you then redo the test for all the injectors and compare how much it drops the pressure on each injector. If the injector is clogged or not working the pressure will not drop as much as a good working one. that will keep you from having to swap injectors blindly and possibly for no reason. Hope that helps.
Usually if it’s a misfire and the park plugs are good I immediately inspect the compression of the engine to ensure you at least have a good block/ engine BEFORE continuing the rest of the diagnosis, if compression is good, do a leak down test in all the cylinders to find a possible leak the compression check could not find
Are 100% sure that what you think are cylinders 2 and 5 are actually cylinders 2 and 5 and that when you did change the coils over you did it for those cylinders which are giving the issues?
I also agree that it’s the coils, I’ve had the same problem, try putting the vehicle in neutral and if the rough idle lessens, then it’s a coil problem due to the vehicle not having any strain in neutral, as it would in drive
Enjoy your videos & your efforts to bring back to life these vehicles. Only as a suggestion from someone that has lost tools, parts,screws & bolts into the dark hidden areas of cars is to get a magnetic bowl to hold tools & parts while in use. Just a suggestions as you continue your quest.
Sam, I’ve been critical of a few things in your channel, but I really don’t have a problem with the floor repair. It’s a salvage title car, and I agree with being uncomfortable welding down there. The Lotus Elise chassis is actually held together mostly with panel bond, so I don’t see the problem. On to the misfire issue...have you checked the fuel injectors themselves? An injector that is stuck open will cause the misfire condition, as it’s not metering the fuel just dumping it in. May want to swap those bad boys and see if the misfire moves. Sometimes you can see debris on them as well, which would point to the stuck open scenario. Look forward to seeing this thing running!
you've pissed a ton of money away on this car and don't have a scanner . and you didn't even stop drill the cracks in the floor to keep them from running farther along the panel .
What you doing?! Not shit homie that's what I thought. Let Sam enjoy his fucking hobby and do what he likes. Its people like you that ruin it for the rest of us. He's honestly doing us a favor by videoing every bit of his favorite spare time. It's a salvage car, end of story. But it's his car, he can do with it what he wants! You don't fucking like it then leave puss lips.
Sam Wanna buy my Aston Martin DB9?? It's cut in half but that'll buffer right out. asking price 80k taxes not included you have to transport it yourself also 🙂🙃
I agree with the injector problem many people state , but do not discount the spark plugs even though they are new. Check the gaps and also swap them around. I had problems with brand new plugs more than once and always ended up spending a fortune on other stuff to try and fix the "problem"
Swap the injector positions. Check each one for resistance as you move it to another cylinder. You can probably find what they should read but even looking for divergent readings from the ones from the misfiring cylinders may be enough. You could have stuck injectors leaking down the system when it's off and spraying too much fuel when running. What are the positions on the engine block of the misfiring cylinders? Are they adjacent? Do they run off the same fuel rail? Do their intake runners feed off the same plenum? Have you done a compression test yet?
Place I work at also has a body shop. Panel bond is AWESOME stuff. Sets up rock hard and is easy to sand. That may have not been a factory repair but it was a strong repair.
As some others said you could have some clogged or bad fuel injectors. You might have them checked or replace with all new injectors depending on price.
@@xabhax The plate isn't the issue, it's the existing cracks that shot out past the panel bond as well as the cracks that are behind the new panel. Panel bond might hold the new plate, but it's not some magic glue that stops cracks from growing. No, I'm not an expert, but I do know enough to understand that repair isn't a repair, it's a cover up.
random search on the internet says the orders this: Front 8 1 7 2 6 3 5 4 Rear - which would match what Sam did. But, it might be worth explicitly testing another cylinder and noting which number ODB2 says it is.
If swapping spark plug leads etc, you may need a new ECU. I had a car which started misfiring and throwing codes and sending the car into Limp mode. The dealer also did the smoke test and a few other things. Once the new ECU was in place, there were no further issues.
It could be bad fuel injectors, I’ve had one go on my car a few weeks back, maybe as it’s sat at the auction the injectors have gone bad, there’s an easy check for it too: hold a long screwdriver up to the injector and use it as a stethoscope and you will hear it spray fuel when working and nothing when it’s not, pretty neat trick
sorry bud, the car misfires because you didn't tig weld the floor panel.
Jeremy Tod Karma is a b--.
And now he's blowing smoke up it's ass to test for leaks. This guy is crazy.
Crack smoke at that
I was gonna say thhaaattt ! .. the car is sad about it
Lol
I'm sending you a Ferrari shirt, some gold jewelry and good espresso. That's all you need to diagnose a Ferrari.
Burn 😂
Lol
Horrible accent on that “Italian” mate
@No Gods For ME WHATEVER....
@No Gods For ME it was a joke dude, chill, and nobody will read that whole paragraph, I didn't know someone could hate a fictional character this much
Sam, the pipe clamps are missing from the inlet of the throttle bodies.. an air leak there will mess up the fuel air mixture as the air mass meters are upstream near the air filters
I had a Mazda Mpv that did this and it was a crack in the air inlet hose that I tried to cheap out and silicone, didn't work. Bought one $65 bucks problem gone. Had a friend car would only run in reverse or or would die, the mechanics said it was a transmission issue. Same thing, just hose issue.
Hey man great eye, I appreciate you noticing this. I removed these as I took out the MAF tubes to clean everything. My problem happened before this but I agree I'm going to clamp then up because this can easily mess things up. Thank you
Legend lmao
I've seen less ads while watching the Super Bowl. Jesus
Dude Simon are you a nam combat vet with those eyes? Lol
Remove the spark plugs and squirt some Panel Bond down the plug holes and this will fix the low compression issues
Hahaha
In my experience nothing beats flex seal
some chewed gum should also do the trick
@@dainese7774 hahaha!!!
" Samcrac: tell me what you think in the comments "
week later
"I don't care about your opininion it's my build"
He realizes what a shit job he did on that repair. Might as well buy autozone wheel covers to slap on it too if that's the quality of work that's going into this car.
Swap the injectors and see if misfire change cylinders
Probably bad injectors
Agreed, bad injector could be sticking open and dumping fuel!
@@sgfreak96 or plugged up and just dribbling
@@Sylvan_dB I'd guess dumping because of the error code in the video. If the code says the CATs are at risk due to excessive fuel reaching them, the injector could be dumping.
@@sgfreak96 I doubt there is a sensor for fuel flow. Misfire just means risk of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. You'll usually get the same code for any misfire other than some cars can detect current flow aka electrical issues with coils and injectors (and lights). Instead of detecting fuel flow cars are programmed with the flow rate of the injector and by controlling the number and duration of pulses "know" how much fuel should pass. Barring a detected electrical issue, they assume the fuel is flowing, so a misfire means unburnt fuel in the exhaust.
yup lean or rich a bad injector would put fuel in the exhaust due to it not burning properly.
A little over a year ago and two days after I got married, a lady with no insurance ran a red light. She was going 80mph tanking the front end of my car that I had 2 payments left on. I was very lucky to make it out of it mostly in harmed. When I was looking up how to keep the car I stumbled onto one of your videos. Sadly the car was so badly damaged it was not going to be able to be rebuilt. But your videos where an inspiration for me to never have a car payment again. I have now rebuilt 2 cars from Copart and I am working on a 3rd. I know there are a lot of people rebuilding cars on UA-cam but it was yours that helped me get past that really crappy event. Thank you very much.
lunarOutlaw thanks for sharing your story . Sorry to hear about that . Glad you took the plunge into rebuilding , I’ve been thinking of saving up a bit and buying something for learning purposes like in sam’s early videos .
What happens in murica if someone not insured causes significant damages? Do they go to prison?
Ben Mallah unfortunately she got out ran away. I had eye witnesses that put her on the scene, and the cityThat it happened in Troy New York didn’t even issue her a ticket
Leandro Garcia if you do send me a link when you start making episodes I know I’m enjoying making mine
@@iphgfqweio This varies by state, and in every state I've lived in you have an add-on to your insurance policy to cover "uninsured motorists."
This means that if the party that damaged your car has no insurance, your own insurance company covers your loss. In Florida, your own insurance covers your loss anyway, then they either deal with the at-fault driver's insurance company for reimbursement, or sue the at-fault driver if they had no insurance.
In Georgia and Alabama, the at-fault party's insurance company will pay you (or the repair shop) directly to cover the damages. If the at-fault driver had no insurance, then your own policy covers you.
Sorry...that went longer than I intended!
I think I speak for everyone when I say please don’t give up on it 🙏👌
Forza JT Sneaky nah you don’t
@@DatMothBoi then fuck you
Forza JT Sneaky lol not Scotty
Yup
@@undearwearman654 Wow... That escalated
You need to watch some South Main Auto. Also get a proper smoke machine, a better OBD scanner (Autel) with bi-directional controls and a pico-scope.
Playing swap tronics and firing the parts canon is not the solution here.
He could never learn to use the Autel.
@@ryansullivan9351 Chill out, is all part of the game
Compression and Leakdown test and take out the injectors and get them flow tested.
Also ditch the carb cleaner, brake cleaner test. Those are useless and give false positives all the time.
Do the same thing as with the cigar, except get a $25 party smoke machine. Works every time. Have diagnosed crazy complex 80's carburetted emissions vacuum weirdness with it. Good luck.
Let’s see which car can be fully functional first, Sam’s F360 or Rich’s Model S. 😏
Or Tavarish's Bentley? Honestly, I reckon I'll look like my FaceApp picture before we find out!
The Hellcat
How about my Civic? Where is my crankshaft pulley bolt?!
Has he ever finished any car completely ? where is Ford Focus? lol
Sound like the injectors are stuck open. May explain no fuel pressure key on and misfire.
Naah... First off, if all the injectors were stuck open why would the car start? And if only one or two were stuck open, then fuel flow would increase after the engine is started, not decrease, yet there was pressure when the car was running. Besides the fuel pressure regulator and pump should have adequate flow to supply all the injectors, at 100% duty cycle and still maintain pressure. Admittedly, this is a harder task with the engine off than with the engine on, but its highly unlikely they were all open, or the engine would have been flooded.
Sounds like a couple of bad injectors at the very least or you've got a valve issue. Check the lash on the valves and run a leakdown test. The car is not happy about all of the advertising you and You Tube keep insisting on.
and the grinch its not happy about lol
Sam, you have leaking fuel injectors. It is apparent on your fuel pressure test, where you turn the engine off, the pressure starts to fall pretty fast. It shouldnt fall until several minutes have passed, and even then extremely slowly. It is apparent they are stuck open, and might also be clogging issues or spray pattern issues.
Keep up the good content buddy! Subbed ofc.
@samcrac THIS!!!
Good content? He's clueless and winging everything
@@TRMN8R03 sometimes you have to be clueless to be cluefull. I bet you don't know everything about the foreign engineering on this vehicle.
@@LuccianoNova all engines operate the same way bruh. Air, fuel, ignition theres simple solutions to everything and injectors are often completely ignored as if never needing maintenance
Zombieman Seafoam is great for that.
Hi Sam. I know this will sound counterintuitive. change the fuel filter and clean the injectors. And it will run like a Swiss watch.
Stop drill cracks! Not to mention corrosion prevention.
-From someone that has worked with metals since 1992.
Mismatched or faulty injectors. Had the same symptoms on a BMW
my thoughts exactly did same on my buddies 435 gran coupe. 40k miles with misfire and codes, swapped plugs and coil packs. ended up being cylinder 1 injector.
Just hope it's not low compression on those 2 cylinders
I would pull the injectors and send them off for cleaning/flow testing.
Samcrac, I'm on to faulty injectors too. Probably they are locking open for a small time.
Could he not just swap 2 around ?
That's not why we didnt like your floor repair. We didnt like it because you didnt do anything to prevent the cracks from becoming bigger
Plus any future buyer is going to run a mile seeing it !
its a old ass car..
At this point i don't think he will listen. I commented about the high likelihood of the cracks growing in the last video as well. The glue is fine and all for sealing the two panels and bonding them but will do nothing when it comes to the cracks migrating.
I posted the same, it’s just common sense to drill the end of the cracc to stop it spreading - if a jobs worth doing, do it right first time
The thing is Sam doesn't really know how to fix cars. He is just a youtube presenter now really. Anything more complicated than unbolting a part and bolting a new one on and he doesn't have a clue. He doesn't have any basic mechanical skills. If he stops making money from the video views he will dump the project and move onto something new ( while making us cringe at his sponsor mentions )
Sam: I bought a cheap salvage Ferrari! $300k later....hey it runs! Oh no, check engine light again. 😔
Only a few minor fixes : engine have to be rebuild, all electronics changed , transmission replaced , wheels and tires replaced , windshield replaced and body to be fixed and painted. That’s it. Oh and a small hole in the undercarriage that also made the car totaled.
Don’t discount the fuel injectors, Sam... worth swapping them to eliminate them as a possibility.
U should ALWAYS check compression in all cylinders FIRST. So u dont go driving urself crazy trying to throw parts at it if the cylinder is bad.
@Kris Nicholson Nope, it was a coolant hose that blew, after an intense driving abuse from a test car...
or bad valve or camshaft or valve seat
Sam, I’m going to second this. Pull all of the plugs and disconnect all coil packs. Then do a compression check. They are pretty easy to do and you need to know the cylinders are actually making compression.
A second thing to check is to connect a vacuum gauge while the car is running. They can help diagnose things like a burnt valve or whatever. I would go no further on swapping parts without these two tests.
Last thing, the floor repair. I am a fully qualified professional welder. What you did there is just fine. The only change I would make is to smooth out the leading edge of the panel bond/ seam sealer. It wouldn’t take long to do and just brings your work up the next notch in quality.
@@ferfire9 Jin
@@bradgray1279 what would you see on a vacuum gauge with burnt valves. I had a chevy 4 cylinder . Seemed to run fine. But the engine would hesitate when car was coming to a stop. The vacuum gauge needle would vibrate severely. Thanks
The car is rebelling against the hack job floor repair.
Lol
Burn it to the ground
@@sb-ant6457 - He tried to, by spraying starter fluid all over the engine.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH I'll call you name out loud if we get flames bud
PRAYFORMOJO the floor pan is having a bitter divorce with the rest of the car, and the pans getting it all😂
There's a difference between panel bonding and a bodge job. Aeroplanes are panel bonded, last time I went on holiday my plane didn't look like that disgrace on your floor 😂
Pretty sure it's falling on deaf ears. Everyone and their dog knows it's a butcher job. He doesn't care. I still enjoy his videos.
Agree. Just because a panel such as a front or rear quarter are bonded on, doesn't mean everything should be. These cars are engineered in a certain way that is beyond comprehension for a lot of people. Unfortunately that is evident in the attitude to that particular repair. Good on Sam for doing the videos and making cars like this affordable, we just differ on opinion on this particular aspect.
I simply would have waited, and fixed that pan so it was invisible.
@@Smurphenstein Ferraris are never "affordable ".
@@asleepnomore4111 amen to that, I hope to never be in a mind space to even be able to consider buying one. Give me a muscle car any day.
I keep my house safe with scrap aluminium and elmers glue and then I go around everything with a bit of seam sealer
Why do u assume the injectors are working? For a misfire, you always check spark, ignition signal to coils, fuel pressure, injector pulse signal, and how much fuel the injectors deliver (i.e. non-working or clogged injectors)
Sprays starting fluid on exterior of Ferrari engine. Either very brave or very stupid. Lights cigar in engine bay. So THAT’S how Ferrari engine fires start!
it's so hot in FLA it evaporated LONG before he lit the cigar.
Also brake clean and starting fliuid will take that red paint right off the valve covers...
@@aceventura1980 not if it's powder coated.
@@mumbles005 There's something else, ether maybe? something like that that isn't flammable.
@@mumbles005 yeah that's why I put the ? mark. I saw a video a LONG time ago where a mechanic went through all the ways to check for vac leaks. One was putting 3 psi air into it and spraying a water/soap mix. Another was spraying something, not water, that would cause the engine to stutter. Whatever it was was noncombustible because anything combustible wouldn't stutter the engine.
Test for bad injectors.
That starting fluid in the engine bay brought back memories of my first n last engine fire i started 😂.
I cringed when I saw him spraying starter fluid onto a running Ferrari engine. I assume it was dead cold.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH Pretty sure it was cold. Thats actually how I tested my little 2 stroke engine for leaks :D Only cold ofc!
That and the cigar smoke test were cringe. At this point I think he's doing it to trigger his more negative viewers/commenters. 😄
Ferrari ‘s are a beautiful mess.
captainzero sounds like my wife.
@@CamperCamper-km2sq Thats o.k. my wife is like a chinese vacuum cleaner, very noisy and no sucking.... just kidding man. Have a nice day!
ladamurni my wife’s like a condom...always in my wallet and never on my dick.
just like land rover's lol
*worthless mess
I was just browsing through random vids but your ferrari project got me hooked up. Come on man, don't give up! You'll figure it out
This guy gives a masterclass every week on all the things you should not do
Show us what we should do big boy
@@thelarry383 easy. First thing you do is: stop buying cars you can't fix.
That's it actually.
@@GamerGuyProductions somehow @goonzquad does it well every time, learning from each unknown repair they tackle
Man, if that’s the way you think then you won’t get anywhere in life the point is to try new things that push your limits, leave the hate
next time clip the bottom of that cigar... will work much better. LOL
Jeff Digital right?
I don't think sam has ever watched an action movie with a villain.
@@AllanWorks And he thinks he can fix a Ferrari.
Swap Injectors or its injector seals or a burnt valve- use leak down test- or you have damaged the o2 sensors when you overfilled the car with oil
a misfire could be a whole slew of issues. Back in the day it was only fuel and spark and those are two of the issues to be looked at but O2 sensors, inlet pressure, barometric short and long term fuel trims, a whole slew of things will show up with a real OBDII reader.
The home gamer ones only show you the most basic error (misfire) nothing in the system that could be causing it.
I think it's time to take it to a Ferrari mechanic who has one of those readers.
A burnt valve should be able to be heard in the tailpipe or inlet manifold.
Grant Snell Sc says he can hear / feel the misfire as he starts it up
@@kenrossaukrsa I can hear it through the video audio track. I am familiar with it because I dealt with a similar problem in my F150. What cured it was replacing all the plugs and coils. What happens is if the plugs are old, then the coils have to work harder to produce spark. You replace one plug, then the coil is worn out and you replace it. Then the next one goes and you end up chasing them all. Remember: the ecu detects a misfire, then that screws up EVERYTHING. You might even change the coil and plug on the bad cylinder and STILL get a misfire. I did that. The only thing that cured it was doing ALL the plugs and ALL the coils.
I'm starting to think this car had a ton of issues and the owner just put an end to it all finally.
Sam, just watched this video. If you haven't already figured it out, I recommend performing a resistance check on a known good coil then check cylinder 5 and 2. If the resistance is less, your coil is bad. It will still fire BUT it is a weak spark and will cause incomplete combustion. You can also take out the plug and use a boroscope for signs of incomplete combustion (Excess carbon build up, scoring on cylinder walls) and would cause your codes in my experience. I'm no Ferrari expert but I fix a lot of cars and just did a coil pack issue in a Ford Fusion. Hope this helps if you read it! 🤷♂️
I was thinking you were on the road to success. Sorry about the misfiring stuff. Glad you're not giving up. My interest in your channel was sparked by this Ferrari. I really want to see it in mechanically good shape... so you can clean the darn thing up... I'd like to see it roaring down some country road.
Try pulling all coil plugs off to find weak cylinders, cylinder 5 on a diagnostic is not always cylinder 5 on the engine
You should also compression test the engine and swap injectors around testing the power and earth to injector plug when running
To have a individual misfire the problem will lie in either coil, spark plug, compression, no fuel to cylinder or no air to cylinder
Did you check the pressure on the cylinders? Could be a valve issue
A "must do" test on many imports.
@@charlesmcgehee3227 thats why imports suck
First thing he should have done. Well, second after the spark plugs and swapping the coils around. It’s so telling. Hope he doesn’t need a rebuild but it would be worth it!
Yup, Spark plug, coil/ignition, fuel, after that a misfire is probably a broken valve spring.
Firing order is 1-8-3-6-4-5-2-7 - so notice 5 and 2 are one right after another. This would be a case where doing things like a relative compression test (scoping the electrical demands of each firing event) would be a good way to test without having to get too dirty. 5 and 2 are related ONLY by firing order, and have no other common parts (separate fuel rail, intake runner, exhaust manifold). So the likely issue is related to cylinder 5, which is triggering a misfire detect on 2 possibly because the misfire event on 5 is loud enough and long enough... so looking at 5 specifically is important. I am guessing that this point that a valve may be hanging open... may have been damaged when the car was over oiled.
That floor repair looks like stevie wonder did it, jesus its rough
Stevie Wonder would have done a better job.
Who cares? Not a show car, already has salvage title, he's not going to park over top of a mirror
That panel repair was made for a blind person that reads braille. All those spots are letters.
@@TapiaJ TRY A NEW HOOD. THAT SHOULD SOLVE ENGINE LIGHT PROBLEM
If it works, don't fix it. Or, if you don't like what the cook fixed....do it yourself.
After replacing the spark plugs make sure you clear any dtc's stored in the pcm. Misfires will often disable the fuel injectors for the corrisponding cylinders to prevent catalyist damage. Seeing how the misfire did not move with the coils.
Hey Sam, you might check each injector coil resistance. They should have resistance in the same range. The ones that won't need to be replaced. The other thing is they could be partially blocked and need some injector cleaner. Worth trying!
You got properly stiffed on this one :( All those engine problems ( and the wrong ECU that was fitted before ) means the car was never running properly pre accident. Guessing the previous owner couldn't afford to fix it properly which is why he 'ran over a rock' to get it written off by the insurance company
Here's a couple of ideas. First off, you need to do a compression test on the engine, to determine its overall health. If it's ok, then the fuel injectors are suspect. I say this because of the bouncing pressure gauge readings that you showed us. If compression is good, remove the injectors and get them cleaned and flow tested. My hunch is that the two that are causing misfire codes are clogged.
Keep working on it SamCrac, I remember fighting the parasitic power drain on my CLS55 AMG, spend like 40 hours over 6 months fighting it and finally solved the issue. You may need to change fuel filters and have your injectors re-balanced. It is possible this is a sensor as well that is changing timing on the fly but not throwing a code, or a harness issue. in the end, very interested in the series. Go Sam!
Is the grinch scotty Kilmer??
Why would scotty kilmer be the grinch? You know he could buy all 3 of those cars new right..
Doubt it. He kept trying to rev up Samcrac's engines. He also told Samcrac that he was doing things wrong.
@@taelorwatson9822 Have you ever noticed how drunk that guy is in some of his videos?
If Scott's drunk, alcohol gets him.going
It would only be Scotty if he had a garage full of 94 Celicas LOL
change injectors!!! its expensive but will give you same codes. you ruled out spark and coil already, next is fuel.
Or compression..
Its going to be compression notice he did not show it in the video its super simple and one of the very first thing to do when getting a new car!
@@simpleepoxy are you telling me this show is scripted lol? Is reality television fake too?
IF you have an obd2 tool and he had one, you can just do your fuel test and turn the injector on. Don't change them, you can just test it.
@@juanthestabber its the internet anything can happen lol its not hard to do a compression test lol
So.....has the spark plugs out and doesn't check the basics...
Compression check anyone?
Pulled spark plug lead and there was a difference, indicates spark is ok.
Checks for vacuum leaks, good.
Fuel pressure to the rail, great.
Are you getting fuel into the cylinders?
Next check is pulling the injector leads and seeing if there is any change there. If not or it's a marginal change, go after your injector. Probably gunked up. Best to just pull them and get them cleaned and flowed. that will tell you if there is a mechanical or electrical problem with any of them.
That's my bet.
If you are expecting methodical, educated, skilled, logical fault finding, you’re in the wrong place, if you’re looking for a waffling, clueless idiot, you are in fact, in the right place....
Load the parts cannon........
@@G2tde YUO MUST LERN THRU UTRAL AND ERROR THIS CHUMP SHOWS US HOW TO DIAGNOCE A FURRARI WITH A $1 CIGAR.... U SOUND LIKE ENTITLED MILLENIAMS TBH
@@thesleepstate yeah and you are writting like one
Dickorydock well we agree on one thing he’s a Chump.... I was born in the 70’s so millennial, no...entitled...to my opinion....yes and I prefer to learn and problem solve vehicle faults by using a methodical process of elimination.... and I have enough experience to know what I’m seeing when I watch Sam’s videos
As others said...I had this problem. Swap injectors [you can try pulling the connector if they are hard to remove] . It's the second part of any good power balance test. Also, before you declare the war over, seafoam in the tank, and spray an entire can in the intake. [check projectfarm on YT]. That's a part of every rescue vehicle SOP... Amsoil is a good substitute or upgrade seafoam.
Sounds as if your injector 3 and injector 5 are faulty and stay open when the car is running leading it to create a to much of a rich mixture and can’t burn of all the fuel leading to it being taken out on the outlet stroke. Hence the emission codes. I suggest you use a good multimeter and test for the resistance in ohms on the injectors.
Won’t listen coz he’s stuck up
In Finland, you would fail MOT 100% with bodywork like that..
Same with the uk
Same with north america.
Yeah but he’s not in Finland
I think his 'fix' fails in most countries
oooookay so now im waiting for the Brian Spilner Eclipse moment after the danger to manifold where the floor flies off from too much NoS. lololol
This guy and me have a lot in common - he’s no idea what he’s doing and neither have I.
He knows a lot man! This guys actually super smart, and a great mechanic.
@@ryansullivan9351 noooot 😂
@@buggy478 I dont see you car/mechanic videos you fucking scrub? Dont hate on something you cant even do. Atleast this guy can edit a video, bet you a 1000 dollars your troll ass cant even do that.
Gtfo bud, you aint shit.
I watch all your videos and have learned a lot & I could use your advice. I know our car is not at the level of the ones you buy and repair but we are at our wits end right now. Our 2007 Prius has over 230,000 miles on it. We have maintained it as much as we can given the restraints of our combined incomes and had the #3 valve repaired at a dealer last year. We have had the car for a bit over a year and it is our 4th Prius, 3 being wrecked in accidents caused by other people. My girlfriend has been putting oil in it fairly frequently of late about a quart a week and she noticed oil leaking under it when parked. She put oil in it yesterday & when she drove it home it started putting out grey smoke from the exhaust. Everything I have read on line says this could be the head gasket or we may bave to replace the engine. It will take us a while to save up the money but what I need to know is the cost to do either one. Everything I have read says its better to just replace the engine. I can buy an engine but have no certain idea what the labor would be. I am unable to repair it on my own due to bad eyesight. We would like to be able to repair and sell it and get a better one with a lot less mileage. It is not a salvage car and had a clear title. We live in the SF BAY Area in the East Bay.
Hey one thing you may want to check is the injectors themselves. sometimes they can get stuck open or stuck closed causing a miss-fire. So take one of the two Known missfiring cylinders injectors and swap it with another cylinder, reset codes and check again. if the problems moves bad injector. if it doesnt move then the injector is fine. rinse and repeat with other bad cylinder.
Also a cylinder leakdown test and compression test may be in order as well.
samcrac the type of guy to kidnap aliens from area 51 just so he can teach them to wrork on cars
🤣🤣😂😂
And clap cheeks
Last time I had a blinking check engine light was a destroyed Exhaust Valve.It was cracked.
You should make a compression test on the two cylinders.
Back at the ranch, finally! I like the channel better from there, makes it an authentic shade tree experience
Sam, I like your attitude about the Ferrari's problems. You 'will' find the issue, it just takes time. I'm a software dev and this is so true about every issue I try to fix. We always win, sometimes it takes a day or two longer than the last. No use 'worrying', things will fail whether you want them to or not, beyond your control, roll with it and go to work.
Sam just i little hint for you to try out as it sounds like my BMW 535i which had stood for over a year with no turn over of the engine,When they stand for that long the hydrolic tappets fall flat so when the engine is running the valves do not open as far as they should,It can also be a injector valve being stuck open even when the electric is off so you end up with cylinder float or flooding of the pot.Pull one of the plugs out after cranking the engine and see if the piston looks wet.If so your injector will be dribbling rather than spraying a mist.
😕I'm bummed out that you didn't put your initials in the floor pan
X. P. He didn't need to. It already had crac(s) on it.
Sam: NOT BRAKE CLEAN. NOT STARTING FLUID. CARB CLEANER ONLY!!!
I would use wd40,it will cause a change in the engine, less chance of ignition, and won't harm paint or seals
Propane will do the same thing and it does not damage paint, electrical nor rubber hoses. And it leaves no residue like starting fluid and carb cleaner
Carb fluid starts fires! Big fires.
To all you guys suggesting different things: carb cleaner is the best option, it's what professional auto techs use. It will not start fires. Never heard of that EVER. Starting fluid WILL start fires. Brake cleaner will damage 02 sensors. WD-40 may work but will make a huge oily mess. Propane will work but not if there is much airflow, it will blow away before being sucked into a vacuum leak. So again, I say CARB CLEANER.
All you experts crack me up lol
Those HFT $5.00 pumps are the one item I would never buy again from HFT.
Others are suggesting a leaky/stuck open injector. To test for a leaky injector, you would clamp off any return line (going back to the tank) in the FI system, build fuel pressure briefly, turn off the ignition. Fuel pressure should hold for 20-30 minutes. Usually with a leaky injector, the fuel pressure drops almost immediately to zero. However, this will almost always cause cylinder flooding and hard restart until the fuel evaporates. So, I don't think that is it. It could be the opposite - a poorly flowing injector causing a lean miss. In that case, pull the electrical plug to the suspect cylinders' injectors. If there is no change in the idle, that would support this a problem with the injector or its electrical supply. A noid light plugged into the injector harness plug is used to detect the latter. Good luck.
Hey Sam. It is the intake gaskets as part of the overall problem. Had to help friend change his years ago. Little over 7 hours and we were meticulous and kept everything sparkling clean - surfaces, gloves, tools etc. Just replace all the gaskets and just not the ones that are bad. He had misfires on 7, 5, and 2 that came up. Some gaskets were showing "failure in process" also. So we went ahead and just did them all. Seems to be fairly common and the Achilles heel in that engine due to age. I would advise that you include the use of Hylomar blue on the surfaces. Makes the repair bullet proof. Have been using the blue for decades and never had a failure. Hylomar comes out of Aerospace field and been around since the 40's. Perfect for gasket surfaces. If you don't have hylomar then BUY some!!! Will be best friend on ANY intake/Carb system you touch. You can get the solvent containing or non-solvent variety. Follow directions for either, but note they are different as to handling. Anywho, you will also should change that pesky oil intercooler while you are under there also. Another weak link. Usually susceptible to corrosion and neglect and easy to get to while you are under there. Last little tidbit....change the coolant hose buried under there also. Yeah you could risk the last two but with 3 to 4 hours to get in there....it makes sense to change it. That solved the engine problem and codes never came back. The only thing is that you have raw fuel going into your Cat so I may suspect a drooling injector or one that is performing poorly. Since we only saw lean codes (excess air) I am certain you have more of a fuel issue in addition to gaskets. Certainly you have gaskets that have or are ready to bite the dust in there as most of the 360s are blessed with this experience at some time or other. A pain in the @#$%$%#$%$ for certain....BUT at least it is NOT an engine out process. All can be done from above with patience, time, and yes....a little kind persuasion and choice words to let your 360 know you love it......hahahahaha. Keep up the great work....it's all coming together nicely! Almost there!! hope that helps...not a master but a decent DIYer right there with ya. Best
short drive >>> major repair
short drive >>> major repair
short drive >>> major repair
short drive >>> major repair
short drive >>> major repair
short drive >>> major repair
short drive >>> major repair
welcome to owning an over-priced foreign exotic
No, this what happens when you buy a shitty neglected shed? But i suspect its all about adsense
I’m guessing you didn’t cut the end on the cigar.😂
Check your compression!!!! Also if that checks fine put injectors in it.
True that
Your right
Samcrac the floor panel is fine, the only thing different thing I would of done would be to drill the ends of those cracks and tares. Cracks and tares love to travel in metal. Drilling holes in the end of them spreads out the force from pinpoint pressure to a more radial one which will stop them from traveling any further do to vibrations or flex stress.
Had very similar problem on cylinder 1, tried new spark plugs, swapped coils, new ignition coil, checked intake manifold, new intake manifold gaskets, checked fuel injectors, swapped fuel injectors, checked compression, all good.
One last thing before going into engine was checking lifters and rockers. And there was my problem. Replaced cylinder 1 rocker and lifter and all good.
CHECK LIFTERS AND ROCKERS before you use new parts!
Error says you are dumping fuel into 2 and 5. How did those injectors look when you tested them?
How's the battery voltage? Ferrari forum says random misfire codes can be due to low battery; how's the plug coils and leads for 2 & 5?
SaltyTubers has great advice: check the injectors. I had an injector get stuck open on one of my vehicles and spray fuel constantly. The initial diagnosis was a misfire and a very, very hot catalytic converter. My fuel pressure rail would not hold pressure which led me to investigating the fuel injectors. Best of luck!
your video rebuild of cars has inspired me to make videos of my truck
thank you samcrac
2 for 99 cent cigars? the other is used to roll the victory blunt after you get this car going
😂😂😂😂😂
He probably smoked it before he attempted to fix the floor panel.
Oh yeah. And by the way. Panel bond is good stuff. We use it in our shop and it's used In all newer vehicles extensively. It's even part of OEM repair procedure for most late model vehicles.
Sam I only found your video's two days ago but I'm addicted . I started working on cars three years ago even though I was 39 at the time. I bought a 2001 Monte Carlo SS it was a limited edition performance package with the 3800 engine. I paid 425 $ for it plus it was 90 miles away so I had to rent a Dolly to tow it home. It had a lot of issue's. So of course I started looking for a donor car. I found one. It was an 04 SS with 200 thousand miles on it . I paid 400 for it and the guy dropped it off in my driveway. All the parts that I needed for the 01 where on the 04. The car is now my summer daily driver. Its only got 81 thousand on the motor and drives like a beast. I've been learning how to paint now too so it was my first full car paint job ( I practiced on a couple of bike tanks I got at the scrap yard first). It turned out OK but I'm going to re paint it before the summer is over. I did all matte black with the bumper, rocker panels and part of the front bumper a gloss orange. This winter I'm going to pull the motor and replace all the seals and install a super charger I got from a Pontiac at the scrap yard. Its been a fun and crazy three years. I've learned a lot for very cheap.
Thank you for your video's. Their a great watch. Plus I now know about COPART and there's a yard about 90 miles away. My wife is already getting nervous. Can't wait to see your next video. Best of luck with your future buy's.
Panelbond is great stuff! But you do know that even though they glue it, They spot weld the panel also.. they arent just glued on. Nice try tho! ;)
They weld plastic panels also? Dickhead
Great entertainment thank you.
That smoke machine method was ridiculous. Stop being so cheap and buy some legit tools bro.
I can't stop thinking about that floor repair. This is a green Ferrari convertible. It deserves better. Hell, even the pizza car would deserve a better fix.
He's just saving money for the full engine rebuild it's going to need! Lol.
If you want to test the injectors before removing them theres a $30 tool that lets you do it while they are still installed. its a All Sun EM276 Injector tester. You simply pressurize the fuel system with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, you then hook the tester to the injector wires and pulse it. by doing so it will drop the fuel pressure a few lbs. you then redo the test for all the injectors and compare how much it drops the pressure on each injector. If the injector is clogged or not working the pressure will not drop as much as a good working one. that will keep you from having to swap injectors blindly and possibly for no reason. Hope that helps.
Usually if it’s a misfire and the park plugs are good I immediately inspect the compression of the engine to ensure you at least have a good block/ engine BEFORE continuing the rest of the diagnosis, if compression is good, do a leak down test in all the cylinders to find a possible leak the compression check could not find
So guess im testing for vacuum leaks in my one car tomorrow with a cigar! Who knew! Genius!!
got to get that sucker going first then put it on the pump...
@@ne2i A can of gasoline and matches will make plenty of smoke, and fix the problem forever.
@@scottfirman yes you can see uncle sam is no smoker. Sure the cigar experts roasted him already like these ferrari experts🤣
i would use a vape :D alot more smoke.. and not harmful
I would buy a smoke tester and make my life easier, rather than guessing games and shade tree mechanic shit!
Are 100% sure that what you think are cylinders 2 and 5 are actually cylinders 2 and 5 and that when you did change the coils over you did it for those cylinders which are giving the issues?
lol probably.
I also agree that it’s the coils, I’ve had the same problem, try putting the vehicle in neutral and if the rough idle lessens, then it’s a coil problem due to the vehicle not having any strain in neutral, as it would in drive
Yeah obd2 is great but engines are idiots when it comes to reporting cylinder numbers.
@@davidjameswales you are so correct
Dude, Why dont you ask the guy who repaired the ECUs? its probably related maybe not the right firmware or something like that
Enjoy your videos & your efforts to bring back to life these vehicles. Only as a suggestion from someone that has lost tools, parts,screws & bolts into the dark hidden areas of cars is to get a magnetic bowl to hold tools & parts while in use. Just a suggestions as you continue your quest.
Sam, I’ve been critical of a few things in your channel, but I really don’t have a problem with the floor repair. It’s a salvage title car, and I agree with being uncomfortable welding down there. The Lotus Elise chassis is actually held together mostly with panel bond, so I don’t see the problem.
On to the misfire issue...have you checked the fuel injectors themselves? An injector that is stuck open will cause the misfire condition, as it’s not metering the fuel just dumping it in. May want to swap those bad boys and see if the misfire moves. Sometimes you can see debris on them as well, which would point to the stuck open scenario. Look forward to seeing this thing running!
you've pissed a ton of money away on this car and don't have a scanner . and you didn't even stop drill the cracks in the floor to keep them from running farther along the panel .
Why bother drilling the cracks? He's got some panel bond left over from his first repair....
What you doing?!
Not shit homie that's what I thought.
Let Sam enjoy his fucking hobby and do what he likes. Its people like you that ruin it for the rest of us. He's honestly doing us a favor by videoing every bit of his favorite spare time. It's a salvage car, end of story. But it's his car, he can do with it what he wants! You don't fucking like it then leave puss lips.
Swap injectors from good cylinders to bad ones and see if misfires change location
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@@pdggarage7429 Against youtube policy to advertise in comments. Resporting.
Sam Wanna buy my Aston Martin DB9?? It's cut in half but that'll buffer right out. asking price 80k taxes not included you have to transport it yourself also 🙂🙃
I agree with the injector problem many people state , but do not discount the spark plugs even though they are new. Check the gaps and also swap them around. I had problems with brand new plugs more than once and always ended up spending a fortune on other stuff to try and fix the "problem"
Swap the injector positions. Check each one for resistance as you move it to another cylinder. You can probably find what they should read but even looking for divergent readings from the ones from the misfiring cylinders may be enough. You could have stuck injectors leaking down the system when it's off and spraying too much fuel when running.
What are the positions on the engine block of the misfiring cylinders? Are they adjacent? Do they run off the same fuel rail? Do their intake runners feed off the same plenum? Have you done a compression test yet?
I can't stop laughing! You're a great comedian, but you're mechanical skills are kaput.
Frank M that last video
Had me laughing for 10
Mins. Wtf is he doing ? Lalol
@@ZoidPickle He's gonna hurt himself
you are mechanical skills are kaput. That's what you wrote.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH Thank you're!
This sounds like a Italian with a French identity crisis.
Could be carbon build up, it's an old car. My wifes rav4 had similar issues that were fixed by some seafoam.
Maybe he needs an Italian tune up?
Place I work at also has a body shop. Panel bond is AWESOME stuff. Sets up rock hard and is easy to sand. That may have not been a factory repair but it was a strong repair.
As some others said you could have some clogged or bad fuel injectors. You might have them checked or replace with all new injectors depending on price.
Rivets r used on aircrafts and one can take insane levels of pressure, ur good
Aircraft don't use pop rivets, genius.
Your right! but if the plane looked like a badgers arse you would not get on it :)
The problem isn't the rivets, it's the existing failure that he didn't attempt to fix.
@@xabhax The plate isn't the issue, it's the existing cracks that shot out past the panel bond as well as the cracks that are behind the new panel. Panel bond might hold the new plate, but it's not some magic glue that stops cracks from growing. No, I'm not an expert, but I do know enough to understand that repair isn't a repair, it's a cover up.
Fuel injectors, thought that would have been the 3rd test. 🤨
Nathan Bradford-Grant he’s gonna change his exhaust bearings and blinker fluid next
@@BenBruce01 And then believe F11 Topcoat is worth the cost & that it's a ceramic coating (early ads).
You were unplugging cylinder 3 and cylinder 6 man, cylinder 1 is top left
random search on the internet says the orders this:
Front
8 1
7 2
6 3
5 4
Rear
-
which would match what Sam did. But, it might be worth explicitly testing another cylinder and noting which number ODB2 says it is.
If swapping spark plug leads etc, you may need a new ECU. I had a car which started misfiring and throwing codes and sending the car into Limp mode. The dealer also did the smoke test and a few other things. Once the new ECU was in place, there were no further issues.
It could be bad fuel injectors, I’ve had one go on my car a few weeks back, maybe as it’s sat at the auction the injectors have gone bad, there’s an easy check for it too: hold a long screwdriver up to the injector and use it as a stethoscope and you will hear it spray fuel when working and nothing when it’s not, pretty neat trick
Chased down a misfire in my car...3 bent valves. Good luck!
i had the same thing happen to my mazda b3000 turned out to be a bad injector