A repairman wanted $760 to do this repair on my washer. After watching this video I bought the parts for $160 and did the repair myself. Thank you for helping save $600.
FYI: These shocks are $36 - $40, depending on seller, on Amazon. If you have Prime, they can be delivered overnight or same day. They also come with new pins and inserts. I personally paid $38 total, delivered overnight (around 8am) Saved a bunch of money, and rcv'd the exact parts needed. No need to spend $160 for brand new replacement shocks.
Thank you for posting the video.! My son and I just replaced all 4 shocks from a model GFW450SSM1WW and I wanted to let you know that unfortunately it looks like in the editing of this video, replacement of the right front shock absorber, which is the most difficult to access, was missed (the front left is far and away the easiest to access and replace). We found that the best overall solution was to leave the rear panel in place and tip the washer on it's back. Our particular model has a large hole in the base from which it is relatively easy to access all 4 of the shocks (far easier than from the front and/or rear panels).
I have the same exact washer and today repair guy showed me 3 out of 4 shocks are gone... anything to watch out for when tipping the washer? did you see any damage afterwards from doing that? are they still holding up?
@@texasaggie85 Hi Texas, It's been a year since I did this so I'm relying on long term memory for this, but here goes. You have to be careful when tipping because if the shock absorbers are defective the balancing weights will shift a bit. Can be corrected with new shocks but don't just let it fall over on it's back or you could see some damage. As indicated, my son and I performed the repair and the washer is still going strong. Also, don't recall if I'd seen this on this particular video or another but placing a socket over the ends of the shock pins can be helpful in removing them. If that doesn't work, just use pliers (I used both). Hope this helps. Best of luck!
@@AT-qu1ek i ended up repairing it this way. You definitely need help tipping it over. Two out four are very hard to access, especially if you’re a bigger dude. Thanks for the tip. I hate GE for using plastic ends on a freaking shock absorber.
Very informative video but there is a reason he changed the left front and the right rear. The right front is blocked by the drain pump and the left rear is blocked by the motor making them a pain in the ass to work on. Thank you very much GE for using cheap plastic parts then charging an arm and leg to buy replacement parts.
Thank you sooooo much. It was entirely unclear to DIY'er with no experience with a split plastic damper pin like this... I know it is only a 5 dollar part, but I was concerned that I was going break the entire machine when it would not come out. This was an extremely well done video.
there was no room to pull the washer out to do this rear access way- I'm sitting on 3/4 done.... and lots of long scratches down my arms... hopefully i can get the last one installed tonight... just came to watch the second part of the video - looks way easier from the back panel. decisions/ decisions. also was advised to pull the top off and check to see if those massive springs are weak as well .... [WH05X10009 Washing Machine Suspension Spring]
Did you compare the old & new shock absorbers for damping efficiency? I would expect the new ones to offer much more resistance to compressing & expanding the plunger.
Help. My ge front load washer is violently shaking and I don’t know why. I looked at all 4 shock absorbers and they appear to be fine. I did however find 2 bolts that are approximately 2” long with a washer that measures across the cent 1”. I can’t figure out where these bolts came from. They are still screwed into either a piece of plastic or ceramic. I just don’t see where they would go. I got this washer when I bought the house and not sure if these bolt are part of the shipping or not. But I found them inside the machine on the back bottom just laying there. This machine has never had leveling legs nor do I see any kind of springs that would support the spin cycle. I’d appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks.
Usually you'll hear a bang on the side of the washing machine when you put more than two towels in at once. To test the shock push down on it firmly and quickly, if there's no kick back the shock is naff.
Old thread but for new searchers I just did my ge. Check for recalls I found out that mine had a recall and that's why it busted the shock absorbers. They still honored it 7 years after and sent me the eProm updater. if it's banging really hard on an unbalanced load most likely one of the shock absorbers bounced so high that it pulled the piston out from out from the bottom or one of the damper pins slid out. I ignored the banging for 6 years until it allowed water to come out and get the connector to the drum motor wet and shorted out the speed controller unit that's in the front left hand corner I replaced the controller the pins the shock absorbers the door lock for less than 75 bucks and a whole lot of scratches on my knuckles.
The machine will make a banging sound. Also, you can take off the front and back covers and visually inspect the shocks. When I did this, I found the top had broken off on three of the four shocks.
I’m buying off eBay . Seller can’t even answer if part will fit my machine but still wants me to buy it. Dodgy eBay at it again and this seller is 100% typical liar
Always an issue when buying after-market. If you have the model number of the washing machine you're looking to repair, we may be able to point you in the direction of the right part!
When replacing the shock absorbers do I need to replace the springs as well? Does it have springs? Part #'s - mod 110 45088 404 // ser cst2219443 // type 199 712 cn/ap
Great question, typically if the shock are being replaced as they are just worn out or broken the springs should be fine. Saying that if all the shocks were broken and the tub was left to hang on those springs for a long period of time they could possibly be weakened or stretched a bit. Replace your shock(s) and if it runs as it should then you are all set.
A repairman wanted $760 to do this repair on my washer. After watching this video I bought the parts for $160 and did the repair myself. Thank you for helping save $600.
FYI: These shocks are $36 - $40, depending on seller, on Amazon. If you have Prime, they can be delivered overnight or same day. They also come with new pins and inserts. I personally paid $38 total, delivered overnight (around 8am) Saved a bunch of money, and rcv'd the exact parts needed. No need to spend $160 for brand new replacement shocks.
Thank you for posting the video.! My son and I just replaced all 4 shocks from a model GFW450SSM1WW and I wanted to let you know that unfortunately it looks like in the editing of this video, replacement of the right front shock absorber, which is the most difficult to access, was missed (the front left is far and away the easiest to access and replace). We found that the best overall solution was to leave the rear panel in place and tip the washer on it's back. Our particular model has a large hole in the base from which it is relatively easy to access all 4 of the shocks (far easier than from the front and/or rear panels).
I have the same exact washer and today repair guy showed me 3 out of 4 shocks are gone... anything to watch out for when tipping the washer? did you see any damage afterwards from doing that? are they still holding up?
@@texasaggie85 Hi Texas, It's been a year since I did this so I'm relying on long term memory for this, but here goes. You have to be careful when tipping because if the shock absorbers are defective the balancing weights will shift a bit. Can be corrected with new shocks but don't just let it fall over on it's back or you could see some damage. As indicated, my son and I performed the repair and the washer is still going strong. Also, don't recall if I'd seen this on this particular video or another but placing a socket over the ends of the shock pins can be helpful in removing them. If that doesn't work, just use pliers (I used both). Hope this helps. Best of luck!
@@AT-qu1ek i ended up repairing it this way. You definitely need help tipping it over. Two out four are very hard to access, especially if you’re a bigger dude. Thanks for the tip. I hate GE for using plastic ends on a freaking shock absorber.
@@texasaggie85 Glad to hear it worked for you! And I agree...pretty lame design by GE. Definitely not designed/manufactured for repairability.
Very informative video but there is a reason he changed the left front and the right rear. The right front is blocked by the drain pump and the left rear is blocked by the motor making them a pain in the ass to work on. Thank you very much GE for using cheap plastic parts then charging an arm and leg to buy replacement parts.
Nice job Steve and thanks for your video. I liked your detail about making sure to have your driver set to the exact diameter prior. Great !
10 years later, thanks steve
Thank you sooooo much. It was entirely unclear to DIY'er with no experience with a split plastic damper pin like this... I know it is only a 5 dollar part, but I was concerned that I was going break the entire machine when it would not come out. This was an extremely well done video.
Chris Marino So glad we could help!
there was no room to pull the washer out to do this rear access way- I'm sitting on 3/4 done.... and lots of long scratches down my arms... hopefully i can get the last one installed tonight... just came to watch the second part of the video - looks way easier from the back panel. decisions/ decisions. also was advised to pull the top off and check to see if those massive springs are weak as well .... [WH05X10009 Washing Machine Suspension Spring]
So that's how the top comes out, now I can continue changing the rear water seal. THANKS
THANK YOU! My washer sounds like it's coming through the floor. This video is exactly what I needed to find out how to fix it my self.
NIce video though a couple more "interior" shots would have helped although I do realise that is probably easier said than done!
Thank you so much!
Did you compare the old & new shock absorbers for damping efficiency? I would expect the new ones to offer much more resistance to compressing & expanding the plunger.
Help. My ge front load washer is violently shaking and I don’t know why. I looked at all 4 shock absorbers and they appear to be fine. I did however find 2 bolts that are approximately 2” long with a washer that measures across the cent 1”. I can’t figure out where these bolts came from. They are still screwed into either a piece of plastic or ceramic. I just don’t see where they would go. I got this washer when I bought the house and not sure if these bolt are part of the shipping or not. But I found them inside the machine on the back bottom just laying there. This machine has never had leveling legs nor do I see any kind of springs that would support the spin cycle. I’d appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks.
How do I know, if the shock absorbers for my ge front loader is bad. I replaced the springs and it still bangs in spin cycle. Thanks!
Usually you'll hear a bang on the side of the washing machine when you put more than two towels in at once. To test the shock push down on it firmly and quickly, if there's no kick back the shock is naff.
Old thread but for new searchers I just did my ge. Check for recalls I found out that mine had a recall and that's why it busted the shock absorbers. They still honored it 7 years after and sent me the eProm updater. if it's banging really hard on an unbalanced load most likely one of the shock absorbers bounced so high that it pulled the piston out from out from the bottom or one of the damper pins slid out. I ignored the banging for 6 years until it allowed water to come out and get the connector to the drum motor wet and shorted out the speed controller unit that's in the front left hand corner I replaced the controller the pins the shock absorbers the door lock for less than 75 bucks and a whole lot of scratches on my knuckles.
@@TheMrAileron Miele charge through the nose for all their parts .
India se hu sar nice vedio
How do you know that the shocks need replacing?
The machine will make a banging sound. Also, you can take off the front and back covers and visually inspect the shocks. When I did this, I found the top had broken off on three of the four shocks.
The audio is messed up. Plz fix.
I’m buying off eBay . Seller can’t even answer if part will fit my machine but still wants me to buy it. Dodgy eBay at it again and this seller is 100% typical liar
Always an issue when buying after-market. If you have the model number of the washing machine you're looking to repair, we may be able to point you in the direction of the right part!
When replacing the shock absorbers do I need to replace the springs as well? Does it have springs? Part #'s - mod 110 45088 404 // ser cst2219443 // type 199 712 cn/ap
Great question, typically if the shock are being replaced as they are just worn out or broken the springs should be fine. Saying that if all the shocks were broken and the tub was left to hang on those springs for a long period of time they could possibly be weakened or stretched a bit. Replace your shock(s) and if it runs as it should then you are all set.
@@partselect thank you 🙏🏽