I notice two little tings...you should get a hobby knife exacto..better than a razor blade to work with and you got more precision.. and to remove number boards..better you philips screwdriver set..the some with a flat head that you can use for this..otherwise it's a great video.. I also use to paint with spray paints and realized many models for CN and CSX
Yes. I've used spray cans on several Lionel postwar Alcos and 6067 (unlettered) cabooses. The Alcos have heat-stamped lettering that needs to be sanded, starting with 200 and finishing not below 600 grit. I make paint stands from folded corrugated cardboard cut to fit the shell. I've had good luck with Testor's Primer Gray and several Tamiya and Testor's colors (for plastic). I have had far less success with home store paint (e.g. Rustoleum). I have never had luck with anyone's yellow and so have stopped trying. I mask with blue masking tape from Home Depot more often than the thinner beige stuff from the hobby store. I finish with Glosscote and use mainly S scale decals (since postwar Lionel is usually significantly undersized). I coat with Glosscote again after decals have set (multiple applications of Solvaset are sometimes required). My results are NOT as good as when I painted HO brass with an airbrush, Modelflex, and paint booth. But it is "good enough" for my several small postwar table layouts.
James spot on with this series.I am a rattle can guy myself. Great series.
Have you ever painted O scale engines?
I notice two little tings...you should get a hobby knife exacto..better than a razor blade to work with and you got more precision..
and to remove number boards..better you philips screwdriver set..the some with a flat head that you can use for this..otherwise it's a great video..
I also use to paint with spray paints and realized many models for CN and CSX
Does this work the same with O-gauge locos?
Yes. I've used spray cans on several Lionel postwar Alcos and 6067 (unlettered) cabooses. The Alcos have heat-stamped lettering that needs to be sanded, starting with 200 and finishing not below 600 grit. I make paint stands from folded corrugated cardboard cut to fit the shell. I've had good luck with Testor's Primer Gray and several Tamiya and Testor's colors (for plastic). I have had far less success with home store paint (e.g. Rustoleum). I have never had luck with anyone's yellow and so have stopped trying. I mask with blue masking tape from Home Depot more often than the thinner beige stuff from the hobby store. I finish with Glosscote and use mainly S scale decals (since postwar Lionel is usually significantly undersized). I coat with Glosscote again after decals have set (multiple applications of Solvaset are sometimes required). My results are NOT as good as when I painted HO brass with an airbrush, Modelflex, and paint booth. But it is "good enough" for my several small postwar table layouts.
Where do you get your engines?
William Graham Swap meets.