just want to say a big thanks to this video. I always had problems with spraying the paints. After few seconds big mess, no paint, tip dry etc etc. All fun gone with airbrushing because of that. So the hobby was still for a few years..... The fun was gone. Found this video few days back and it triggered me. So i had to try this. Grabbep an empty bottle, made the mix. Put 5 drops in the airbrush, 6 drops of paint and it worked awesome!!! The fun is back! No more annoying/fear to paint models after building. So i need to clean the bench now with unfinished models etc :P Also need to try if it works with the vallejo primers. That was also giving me some issues after few minutes of using. So big thanks again!!! 👍
Glad to hear that it helped you enjoy airbrushing again! For Vallejo primers, I recommend adding in "Future" or if you are in Europe, it is called "Klear". It helps the the primer go rock hard in 30 minutes and makes it easily sandable. If you use my thinner mixture with vallejo primers, make sure to wait 24 hours before sanding. But to be honest, I have moved on from Vallejo primers to Badger primers. Badger primers thinned with my mixture, airbrush beautifully and go rock hard in 30 minutes. Then you can sand them easily!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Will do some testing with the primers :) Used the black primer today but after a few minutes of use it clogged the nozzle. So had to clean that first to prime the other models :P
This works perfectly! Thank you so much for sharing. I've struggled with Vallejo paints drying in the tip so quickly and this just completely eliminated the problem. It also works just as well with the Model Color range as well. I even used it (and your techniques) to thin down and airbrush the thick craft/artist paints. Worked perfectly.
Found your video while doing some research into mixing the various types of Vallejo paints. EXCELLENT technique and it helped me fix a few problems. Recently I was working on a Star Trek model and laid down a nice layer of primer. Then I used a mixture of Vallejo Mecha off-white and Mecha Model Air White to get a very light gray. I had HORRIBLE fisheye and spotting. After doing some tests I found that it was mixing the two types of paints. After I decided to just go with the Mecha Off-White as my primary color it went on fine. Unfortunately, there's some kind of hardener and varnish in the Mecha line that made masking and painting over it an absolute nightmare, even sanding. Something in the paint made the masking tape not providing clean lines. Same tape I've used for MONTHS on half a dozen models. No problem until I used the Mecha paint. Sorry for rambling. I loved your video and just wanted to share a tidbit, maybe see if you had the same experience.
Glad you liked the video! And Hello to a fellow Trekkie. I can't say I have had the same problem as you. I have been able to mix Vallejo Mecha paints with other Mecha paints, with no problems. I have also been able to mix Mecha paints with other Vallejo paint brands (except for the premium brands). Just my guess....but the bottles you have might have gone bad. The only time I have had a problem is, when I purchased several bottles of Vallejo paint from a fellow modeler who added in paint stirring balls. But he used the wrong type and the stirring balls rusted slightly. This caused all the bottles to go bad. I could not use any of the paints for airbrush or even brush painting. Other then that, I have never had any issues with Vallejo paints of any kind.
Thank you, thank you, I’ve tried your combination of thinner etc and for the first time ever I can now airbrush Vallejo paints with confidence. Many many thanks, I will recommend your video to every modeller I know as a log of us struggle with these paints.
I’ve had some great results using Vallejo paints and than next time I can’t get it to play nice at all. Your video has really helped and I just wanted to say a thank you. Looking forward to seeing more help videos
Hi drleishaobo introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo/retarder. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more. So liquid 90% + 10% goo/retarder=100%
Very useful update from your prior video. I started using your mix (but using AK retarder as I do not have the Vallejo one), and it works perfectly. Great tutorial! I do also mix my colors in the airbrush cup and never had problems.
Great video and nice presentation. This will be very helpful. That thinner medium is great stuff. I use it as the thinning agent for brush painting instead of thinner or water. It seems to thin the paint without making it too transparent. I also add a small drop of retarder to the mix. My first airbrush was a Badger and I still have an old 100LG that I use from time to time. I just ordered a Badger Sotar from the sale last week to try out for mottling. Like you I have a lot of airbrushes but for 75 dollars I could not pass it up. Keep up the great work!
Hi Andrew, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
Thanks for the video. Thanks for the formulas. Have tried both and they work great! Adding the Future to the mix also saves a step and I can start decaling as soon as I let the paint/mixture/future dry. Thanks again for doing your videos! Tom
Hi. Thanks a lot for the share. If possible, could you further explain the amount of retarder used? It is 70% Flow improver 30% Thinner. And then 10% retarder. So if you make 100ml then it means you add 10ml retarder or + 10% volume on top? I am a bit confused with the 70/30/10 "percent"
Hi Rivian, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo(retarder). The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more. So you add 90% liquid and 10% retarder=100
Sergio, glad you liked the video! For Vallejo Model Color, I have another video on my channel. Recommend you check that video out. As far as Vallejo Primer, I recommend not using the thinner mixture. It increases the drying time…which is not something I recommended. To get the best results from Vallejo primer, I recommend adding in “Future” floor polish. It makes the primer go rock hard in 30 mins and also makes it sandable! But to be honest, I have moved on to Badger Stynylrez primers. They are amazing! They go rock hard and super easy to sand. I thin the badger primers with the thinner solution (60:40) at 25psi. And you get good results and a nice smooth finish!
Brilliant video and thanks for sharing. Few questions if I may, since you have made me thinking of converting from lacquer based paints: 1. What about drying time and paint durability afterwards (are they easily scratched off or prone to have fingerprints on them, handling in general) ? 2. Does the paint "tolerate" the rest of the modelling procedure, like decal softeners, weathering with oils etc? 3. Which varnishes (gloss & flat) do you recommend to use on top of these, vallejo air or something different?
Thank you, glad you liked the video. Regarding your questions, 1) The paints will dry in about 15 minutes. If you look at my other videos, I handle the paints with my bare hands and no gloves on. No issue of leaving finger prints or paint rubbing off, etc. They are fairly scratch resistant....but this is subjective, because how hard are you scratching the paint? But overall handling and drying time is very good. I painted the entire Bf-109 in about 35-40 minutes. That includes black basing and several light main coats. 2) Yes, the paint will tolerate the rest of the modeling procedure if you have a gloss coat on. I use AK extreme Gauzy agent. I let it dry for 15-20 mins and then use enamel washes with no problems what so ever. I know some modelers recommend waiting minimum of 24 hours. I also use the strongest decal setting solution, Solvaset, and the paint holds up just fine. 3) So for my final flat coat, I go with Vallejo Matte Varnish. I personally think it leaves a very nice Matte finish that is not completely a dead flat. I will say if you decide to use the Vallejo Matte, you HAVE TO LET it dry for 24 hours....no exception. I also use to use Tamiya Flat as well, which goes rock hard in 2 hours. For gloss coats for decaling/weathering, I stick with AK Gauzy agent....but before that I use to use Future. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any further questions.
Daniel, the 350 is a good airbrush. I recommend you look at the Paasche VL, it is a siphon feed double action airbrush. But you can use it as a single action airbrush like the 350. It has a roller in-front of the trigger that makes it into a single action. The good thing is about the VL is that it has different options for the needle sizes so it gives you versatility. Plus, the VL is super cheap! You can grab one for 25 -- 30 dollars and it is a tank and will last for a long time.
I am 66 and just retired. I am doing scale model aircraft. W.W.2. Thank you so much your mixture really helped me plus improved the painting. One question if I may...When weathering and using washes do I gloss coat over the acrylic paint job first then dry and then apply the wash to bring out panel lines and rivits.
Hi Woody, glad you liked the video. As far as your question, yes you must apply a gloss coat and let it dry, then add the decals (gloss coat makes decaling easier), then after decaling you can add another light gloss to protect the decals (if required). Then you can add a wash to bring out the panel lines.
Vallejo recommends 1-2 drops of Flow Improver per 10 drops of paint. I'm skeptical of anyone who says to use 7X that. To begin with you are trying to use a needle that is way too small for Vallejo acrylic to flow properly. Try something more like 0.4mm; then you can thin and use the flow improver according to the manufacturers recommendations. BTW, why would anyone own 50 airbrushes?
I know what Vallejo recommends and I have spoken to them about their recommendations. Vallejo has even let me post this video in their official Facebook. The issue is that majority of their focus was figure painting and gunpla. When you airbrush figures you don't have to go consistently for 30-40 mins. You shoot bursts of paint, and having a small amount flow improver works just fine. But if you want to shoot consistent paint for a long period of time, you will never ever get results using just a small bit of flow improver. AND it does not matter if you use a .4mm or even .7mm. When you airbrush for a long period of time you will get tip drying even with a large needle. As far as using a needle size two small...you must not have watched my other videos. I don't know where people learn you have to use a large needle set up with acrylics. It is not true at all, I use nothing but small needle setup in my airbrushing all the time because I like the control and there is NO ISSUE WHAT SO EVER. If you watch airbrush artist videos....they all use acrylics and small needle/nozzle setups. I didn't just come up with this formula out of thin air. I am a former professional airbrush artist with 25 years of experience working with print companies and magazines. I worked on this formula for a while and asked my professional airbrush artist friend to test it and tell me what they think. Try the formula and what I recommend and then see if you change your mind and or not. And btw, that is why I have 50 airbrushes. Watch the Bf-109 video and the Skyraider video. Hopefully, that might help you understand and change your mind.
Great mix - what needs to change if I'm still getting tip dry? Compared game air with and without the mix - color is full strength out of the bottle in 2-3 coats. With the mix the finish looks better but half the color intensity at 5 coats. Surprised how durable it is even without primer.
Hi Lemur, so a couple of questions. First your color intensity should not change what so ever. Unless you are thinning the paint to much and if you thin acrylic paint it becomes translucent. And not sure why you are getting tip dry, you should not be getting tip dry. 1) Are you sure you are following the mixture properly and using Vallejo products? I have found there are problems when you don't use Vallejo flow improver, thinner, and retarder. Just to reiterate that the equation is 90% liquid + 10% retarder. And the Liquid is 70& flow improver + 30% thinner. And make sure it is thinner and not airbrush cleaner. 2) Are you thinning your paint properly, you should be thinning about 50/50 or 60/40 for most of the time. More than then that, your paint is going to be translucent but you can build it up. 3) is your airbrush clean? If you're airbrush is clean, paint can build up in the nozzle area and you will get drying into the nozzle. 4) Do you live in a very hot environment?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 yes, followed exactly as shown in the video. The thinning is making it more transparent which in turn requires more coats. Using vortex mixer to prep each step out of the airbrush. Used two different airbrushes just to confirm. Yes there was less tip drip but it still happened after about 10 minutes of detail spraying - which happens with all acrylics. Tried your mix with model color, game air and model air using your different ratios. It's ok - these were just my findings
Interesting. I can go 40 minutes airbrushing no problems. The only other thing I can think off is if you’re work bench the light setup might be increasing temperature and causing drying. Increase the retarder to 20% but keep the liquid portion same. Let me know it goes, email me: arewethereyetmodeling@gmail.com
David, I have a video on how to best spray Vallejo primers, check it out. And as far as Varnishes, I think Vallejo varnishes with Vallejo thinner at 50/50.
Interesting my Vallejo thinner is like a white liquid and the retarder was like a thick gel so it was hard to know how much retarder to use. I did think with certain colors you have to play around with it as some colors it seemed the paint was too thick. Ps. Ok so I found out that I used Thinner Medium instead of Airbrush thinner I did not know the're are two different kinds.
Hi there, I've recently started airbrushing and found this very informative. Thanks for the video! I've had a lot of issues with the paint being very splattered and could not figure out what was going on. Will definetely experiment with air pressure and different thinner-paint mixture ratios. I do have 1 question, you mentioned good trigger control over paint and airflow. The paint part I understand, do you play around with the airflow during airbrushing? With the trigger? I have a H&S evolution so it is possible to also control the airflow. What I've been doing so far is just pressing the trigger down all the way for airflow and then adjusting only the paint flow.
Shadow, glad you liked the video and it was helpful for you. Regarding your question: yes, you must play around with the airflow via the airbrush trigger. Here is some general guidance that might help you. The closer you are to the surface of the model, the less air and paint you want. But as you further away you want to increase the paint and airflow.
Dr, I use 20 psi and my paint is thinned at 60% paint to 40% thinner. Sometimes I will do 50/50 paint to thinner mixture. A lot depends on your airbrush and it's settings. Start with 20 psi and 60/40 paint to thinner ratio and go from there.
Thanks for the updated video.... very helpful information. Picky question regarding the thinning mixture. You state: 70% Flow Improver, 30% Thinner, and 10% Retarder (total 110%). Is that correct, or did you mean 70 / 20 / 10 or 60 / 30 / 10 for the mixture (total 100%)?
@@bryanjensen6095 so easiest way is, of the liquid stuff: 70% flow improver and 30% thinner (do not use the cleaner, make sure it’s the thinner), and 10% added to the total of liquid of the gooey medium retarder.
@@coolts So introspective I didn’t clearly explain myself. Here are two ways which might help clarify things: The way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. The retarder is just the retarder. You don’t need to be precise with the retarder portion. If you live in a colder environment you might only need 3-5% retarder and the rest liquid mixture. But if you live in a hotter environment like me, you probably want to do around 10% retarder. The thing I want everyone to note, you have to have all 3 ingredients for the formula to work effectively. And here is an even more simplified way: 7 part flow improver, 3 parts thinner and 1 part retarderd
Doing my best not to launch all my Vallejo paints and get stabby with my airbrush needle this afternoon!..🤬🤬 I’ll give this mix a go when the Valium has kicked in and see if my sanity will return.
Haha, Jon I get it. But I promise if you follow my instructions you will have great results and your blood pressure will return to normal 😊
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Hi, really appreciated this video, I have not try out the formula yet, but it will be on my next step on my journey of learning airbrushing. I am a little confused on the formula though: So 70% Flow Improver + 30% Thinner = 100%, how do we calculate the 10% Retarder? Is it 10% of the previous mixture? Or it is rather 70% + 30% + 10%? Like 7 drops of Flow, 3 drops of Thinner and then 1 drop of Retarder? Many Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
Hey glad you like the video! I didn’t explain the formula mathproperly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
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@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Yeah, it does, thanks a lot for the quick response!!!
Hey, I was just watching (again) your video and I heard you mentioned the Hataka paints. I was searching yesterday on YT for videos related to these paints cause I'm interested in using them on my spitfire build but didn't find any thorough/useful (at least what I define thorough/useful) video. I really liked the accuracy of these colors and the wide range Hataka offers. Do you have any tips to give me on their acrylics - Red line like, with what thinners they work best, ratio, airbrush needle and psi. Tbh my airbrush is a very basic,cheap "all in one" kit and doesn't go above 15psi, at 21psi it turns off automatically I think. Thank you very much in advance!
Hi, yes I can give you tips on Hataka Red line. So I tested with my thinner mixture (the one in this video) a while back. The mixture in my video works on all water based acrylics With the red line, I did 60:40 thinner to paint ratio at around 18psi. They worked really well at that range and thinning. Hope this helps!
I've seen another video (from person also has decades of experience) that recommended the opposite ratio of 80% thinner and 20% flow improver. I'm wondering if the difference is a matter of preference or if the optimal mix might be dependent on variables such as type of airbrush, humidity or something like that? Or perhaps the exact ratio is not very critical?
Robert, this is a great question. There are numerous mixture formulas out there for Vallejo/ammo, etc. And before I came up with my formula I looked at those other formulas. Here is the key question to ask when you decide which formula you want to use. What are you painting? Yes, you can 80/20 thinner/flow improver to get results. But the problem is, all the other formulas I looked at were short-term solutions. What do I mean by that? You can use the mixture to do short-term airbrushing. And if you are shooting paint rather than airbrushing paint....like Gunpla figure builders do, then these other mixtures work fine. But I go for long periods of time where I need consistent performance....so my goal was to come up with something that would give me consistent results for long long airbrushing sessions. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 video, I airbrush for over 40 mins (built was speed up 2x) with no issues. You will not get that with the other mixtures. I know I tested them. The other benefit of creating a long performing mixture is that it also works very very well for short term performance. Lastly, another thing that my mixture does that I only learned about later from professional artists. The three ingredients combined together to form a polyurethane addictive that makes the paint more resilient. This is something that professional artists use all the time to make their paints work better and become stronger. But don't take my word for it, do a test with the other formula and mine. I bet you money the other formula you will get tip drying in about 5 mins.
Hi, will try this mixture, I already use an aproxima-te formule, however I don’t have the vallejo reterder, but the ak one! The one with a turtle in the label, do you think this is similar?
@@brunolopes9900 hi, it should be alright as long as the retarder is still good. Retarder does go bad after some time. If it’s really hard to squeeze out. Then it might be bad and will not work.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196yeah. The one from ak is actually way more líquid. It’s not a paste like the Vallejo one. I’ll do the mix and let you know how it goes
I am going to try out your thinner mix with my Stynylrez primer. One friendly critique when you were spraying the red at about the 7:00 mark saying there was no tip dry- I didn’t see any starting/stoping. Wouldn’t running non stop not allow the tip to dry? But I am hopeful your recipe will help my priming - thanks for the video!
@@fonkyjoe hey, so I gave a video on my channel where I use my thinner mixture with Stynylrez. It works well! Because it allows the primer to follow better. So definitely do it. Regarding your comment for the 7:00 mark. I didn’t show the full video, I had to edit the video and speed it up because it was about 5 mins long. So I did stop many times and restart.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I tried the thinner mix with Stynylrez today - was a little nervous as to how thin it was, but it worked great- no tip dry issues either. Thanks for this!
I'm 73 years old. You just taught this old dog a new trick ! Thanks so much for the update. Oh, and you have some really nice builds there. Keep up the great work ! 😊
Interesting fact that non acrylic and acrylic paints are equally bad for your health, regardless of the smell. What is more, odorless acrylics give a false sense of safety because of their very user and home friendly properties. I highly recommend to use spraybooth or at least a proper respirator when you spray these paints.
Hey, that is a good question. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Yes that makes sense. Now I’m to ponder how to portion out the retarder. Say we use a drop as one unit. That’d be 7 drops improver and 3 drops thinner for the 90%. To make it “whole” you’d use 1.5 drops retarder? (Gonna have to work out that math later)
Hey, you can use Vallejo thinner to thin both Vallejo Model Color and Model Air. While Vallejo states that Model Air is pre-thinned for airbrushing. That is not fully accurate, because they tested the paint in particular laboratory conditions. Unless you have the same conditions in your hobby room, you won't get the same results. Thus you have to thin the paint properly. For the best results, I recommend using the thinner mixture in my video. It will give you consistent airbrushing results and makes the paint more resilient.
@@OdysseyAviation you can use the thinner to airbrush. I would recommend thinning the paint 50/50 at 18 psi. But you will get tip dry more often with just the thinner. So just be aware of that and make sure to keep wiping the needle as needed.
Gregory, I made a video on how to airbrush Vallejo primers. I do not recommend using any thinner mixture with primers. It increases the drying time. I mix in "Future" instead...not sure if you are in the US or Europe, I believe it is called "Klear" in Europe. Mix future with Vallejo primers and this will make the primer go hard in about 20 mins. You can start sanding without the primer rolling up on itself.
Good question. I’m not sure as I have never tried with the Vallejo Premium paints. I believe it should work as they are acrylic polyurethane paints, and the thinner and flow improver work on polyurethane
Hey, that is a good question. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense?
Brent, if you can’t get the Vallejo thinner/flow improver/retarder. If you can find an art store nearby they will have similar items you can use. Hope this helps!
Hi, I have a question... I am new to the airbrush. If I am using acrylics and backfilling, and each session isn't very long, after how many painting sessions should I thoroughly clean my airbrush? I want to take good care of this thing, and have zero experience. Thank you so much! Your video has been very helpful!
Hey, so I am gonna drive cleaning airbrushes into two categories. Simple clean and through clean. Simple clean is cleaning your airbrush everytime you use your airbrush. Through clean, you should do once a month just to be on the safe side. I have a video in my channel titled "Airbrush tips and tricks" recommend you check out that out for cleaning techniques. Hope this helps!
Hi, you can use this formula with Vallejo Model Color. I have a video on airbrushing model color on my channel. More importantly, you can use this formula with any “water-based” acrylic paint (Ammo, AK, Army painters, etc). Hope this helps!
Magnus, if you plan to use the whole bottle fairly soon. Then there shouldn’t be a problem. But if you leave the bottle sitting with the flow improver inside, eventually it will separate the paint pigment from the carrier liquid and you won’t be able to airbrush the paint anymore.
Very helpful, but the percentages are confusing as others have said. Rather than percentages would using drops be a better way to understand the formula? For example, 7 drops of flow improver plus 3 drops of thinner and then 1 drop of retarder. which is 10 percent of the base mixture. Is that correct?
Hey so sorry for my belated reply. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense? But more importantly, the reason I did percentages was that people wanted to mix large batches and not just do one at a time.
Hi, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
Thank you for uploading a lot of informational video which helps us who are just starting to get into the hobby. Would like to get your thoughts. does your thinning mixture work with vallejo mecha lineup? would there be a difference of the paint to thinner ratio?
Hi yes it works with mecha line as well! Several modelers have tested it out with the mecha line. I believe that mecha comes in two lines, a ready to airbrush line and brush painting line. For the airbrush line, thin it 50/50. For the brush paint, thin it 80/20 (thinner to paint)
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How do you measure the % of the mixture? Do you do it by volume, weight, or just drops?
Finally, when things are just right, you mentioned "adjusted for temperature". However this is never explained (or else I missed it). I followed the thinning and air pressure adjustments - what compensation do you do for temperature?
This one is not as big of a factor and so I didn't go into it as much. Temperature affects paint (all types of paint) but that is really more if you live in a very hot place or very cold place. If you live in a moderate climate (say between 60 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit)....honestly its not something you need to really worry about. It would take to long to type how paint is impacted by temperature...I can send you a video that explains it.
Good evening. 70+30+10=110…so is it 70%+30%+10 drops? Thank you! My grandson (AJ) & I are working together through WWII model aircraft building. Unfortunately…we purchased Vallejo Air, Model Color and Game Color. We can airbrush the V-Air right OOTB. The MC and GC we can’t airbrush no matter what we do. If we thin it enough to spray, it’s colored water… Paasche with .38mm at 15-20 psi. We’re going to purchase the V materials to make your home-brew. MAN I hope we can make it work. We spend much more $ and grandma is going to…. Thanks. Your videos are e x c e l l e n T!
Paw and AJ, I hope you enjoy your build! Yes 70+30+10 is correct. If you look at my Model color airbrushing video I have a ratio for airbrushing Model Color and should same for Game Color. Also, what Paasche airbrush are you using? If it’s a siphon feed you might need to increase air pressure a bit. To see if the paint is ready to airbrush, use the back flush method. Look for bubbles like you get when you blow into chocolate milk. If you need anymore assistance, email me directly and I’ll be happy to help anyway I can. My email: davisstudent25@gmail.com
Hi thank you for the video and formula receipt. Does this work with 3rd gen acrylics by AK interactive? I have terrible time with those (clogging completely etc). Also is it possible to mix AK thinner, AK flowimproover and Vallejo retarder medium?
Hi, so yes it does. I created a Facebook group for acrylic users and one of our members tested Ak 3rd gen with the mixture formula. He was able to get pencil lines with the paint. His post is in the group feed. He did one issue, he used 2 different airbrushes, one worked great the other didn't. A fellow modeler has sent me some AK 3rd paints, I am going to do a test with them and post a video soon (I hope). As far as using AK thinner, flow improver, vallejo retarder. I don't know....but I think it should work. The only issue I know what AK thinner is that you cannot use it with Vallejo paints, it has an ingredient that ruins the Vallejo paints. Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 fantastic, thans for your reply! I will try it next week so I will post the result here after. One more question - I got the retarder and it is really thick (like honey) - how do you measure it? I can’t imagine to put it in the pipette.
@@davidriha3125 so if it’s really thick and foggy it has gone bad. Don’t use it, retarder will go bad by itself fairly quickly if not kept in the right conditions. Grab a new bottle, it should come off pretty easy.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 So, i’ve just tried your formula for AK interactive 3rd gen acrylics with white crown bottlehead (formula mixed of AK interactive flow improver (black label with orange AK logo), AK 3rd gen thinner (white label, not the one with orange cap and blue water on label) and Vallejo retarder medium). The paint/formula mixture roughly 50:50. It worked on 100%! Perfect coverage, no tip drying and even though my trigger control was just awful (I even let the trigger lose directly from back position) there was no clog no tip dry nothing. So I can confirm that your formula is working with ak 3rd gen acrylics. I cannot explain how this helped me. You literally saved my hobby since I was spraying gunze laquers and it is not possible anymore due to new family members. Thank you and cheers!
You are spot on here. I had terrible trouble with Vallejo acrylics initially. Did exactly what you said and perfect results. I thin 50:50 and add 10% retarder, 23 psi in my Iwata Eclipse. I actually put on 14 coats of paint on one model and they went on so thin that it looks like only 1 coat was applied - no detail lost. Excellent video 👍👍
David, glad the mixture worked well for you! And you got it exactly, the mixture helps the paints airbrush well and lay down without hiding the details. You can create different effects this way and get fantastic results with acrylics.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Thank you for the overview. Can you please demonstrate the proper way to spray, if you have larger model sections to paint, for example when building the DKM U-BOAT 1/48 SCALE. THANK YOU
Hey, I am glad you like the video. So I didn't know what a 1/48 DKM U-boat was and had to look it up. Wow, that is a big model, haha. Unfortunately, I don't have a model that big to do a video on. I mostly build model 1/48 airplanes and 1/35 tanks....which are much smaller than the U-boat. I am currently working on a 1/48 Skyraider and that is a pretty big model by airplane standards. Hopefully that might give you some insight. What I will say is, I used repair large paint works. I would recommend a .5mm or .7mm needle airbrush. I would go in section and assemble the painted parts separately. For such a big model, you might want to look at a siphon feed airbrush because it can hold much more paint. Look at a Paasche VL, airbrush artists use it for large paint projects and you can pick it up super cheap. I hope this is helpful. If you need more direct help, email me at davisstudent25@gmail.com
Hi LeLong, so there are 2 parts to the equation. A liquid part and a goo part. The liquid part is 70% flow improver & 30% thinner. So the equation is 90% liquid portion to 10% goo.
I've bought me a cheap airbrush because I want to learn this process but I'm having problems getting it to come through the brush and I know I might be doing something wrong because I can put cleaner in it and it comes threw good far as I can tell so what can I do to fix this I'm going to leave a picture of the paint I'm using and the cheap airbrush I'm using please help.
Johnny, happy to help. You mention you are going to leave a picture but I don't see one. Can you email directly at arewethereyetmodeling@gmail.com. Tell me everything you did: 1) how you made the thinner mixture. 2) what was your thinner to paint ratio. 3) your psi. 4) how did you mix the paint in the bottle. 5) what needle size are you using. Best way I can help you is if I have all the details.
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I mixed in the cup on the sprayer a d also mixed it in a little clear plastic cup and put it in the sprayer and still would t work like I said I bought a cheap one for 35.00 and I really couldn't afford it but I really want to learn out to do it but I didn't use thinner I'll take a picture of what I'm using and the sprayer in the pictures you'll see the stuff I used because on the bottle it says I can use this so that's what I did and I may have to stick to a paint can and thanks for trying to help me sorry I don't know how to send a picture to you
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I don't know how I done it but I posted it on here I thought it came to you but I don't know what it posted too because I don't know how to take a picture and send it to you sorry.
Hi Alvin, I have a video on my channel for thinning Vallejo Model Colors and how to brush paint as well. Check it out, I think it might be helpful to you.
Really enjoyed the video. My go to paint is MRP but I want to switch to acrylics because of the fumes. Have you had any luck with Ammo by MIG paints? I like tho color selection but I just can't get them to airbrush.
Jay, glad you liked the video. My go to paints were the Hataka orange line lacquers. There smell was just to much for me. I have used Ammo paints but it was before I created my formula. But at the time, I was never able to get them to work right. I might have to pick up a bottle and do some testing. Bring that Vallejo and Ammo paints are very similar….I think formula might work on Ammo paints.
Well, it's a major game changer for me. I have owned an airbrush for many years, but I have seldom used it because of difficulties with using it. After following your recommendations, all that is in the past. Thank you a million for your video. I will post a picture of my model once I finish it.
I am so happy to hear! Glad my videos have helped you start loving airbrush. I have created a Facebook group, please feel free to post your pictures there!
If you were using Vallejo Model Color instead of Model Air, how would you change the mix? My gut feel would be 70% thinner-mixture to 30% Model Color. What do you think?
Bryan, if you look on my channel you will see I made a video on how to airbrush Model Color as well. And you are not that far off the mark on the ratio!
Yes, they work with all Vallejo paints except with Vallejo Premium....as I haven't tired them yet. With the mecha lines, I believe one line is airbrush ready and the other is made for airbrushing.....if I am remembering correctly. With the airbrush line, do 50/50 thinner to primer. With the brush paint version, 80/20 thinner to paint.
So I bought badger Grey acrylic primer, vallejo airbrush thinner, flow improver and retarder. I am wondering if I need the future in the mix for priming? Thanks for all the airbrush info!
Hey, so you can do two things to make Vallejo primer more stronger, more airbrush-able, and sand-able. One is to add in Future…but since Future is more expensive than gold…that’s not the best option anymore haha. The second thing you can do to get the best results with Vallejo primers is to use the thinner mixture in my video. It will make the primer airbrush better, less clogging, smoother finish, and most importantly you can sand the primer after about an hour. I recommend 70/30 primer to thinner mixture at 20-25 psi (based on your airbrush).
@@joelslutsky7370I recommend starting at 50/50 thinner to paint at 18-20 psi. Depending on where you live, if it’s really hot…you want your do 60/40 thinner to paint. Make sure to share the bottle really well.
@@AlexG-ex4sg hi, I don’t add retarder directly to the paint. I add it into the mixture with the thinner and flow improver. But the formula is: 7 parts flow improver, 3 parts thinner, 1 part retarder.
Hey, yes you can use a big needle setup, .5 or .7. Just make your paint is thinned properly and psi is good (bigger needles you typically don't need as much psi, keep that in mind) But to be honest, you really won't need it. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 build, I did that entire kit using a .2mm needle. Smaller needle gives you more precise control and it is better to small sections than large. I have noticed that when people use bigger needles they tend to flood the paint. So just be aware of that. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196thank you, appreciate it! Could you give me email or something to ask for advice... I don't want to ruin your video with my rookie questions.... 🙂 Thank you in advance!
Dude…THANK YOU. I found your video today, and on a whim I tried your method. Totally works!! Well, like 98% works as I probably need to do some minor adjustments. But still, I can see this will save me from ditching all the Vallejo Air products that have frustrated me for months! Thanks again!
John, can you tell me how you are making the thinner mixture? It should not be wet for 30 minutes. If you look at my build videos, I am holding my model by hand without gloves almost right after painting. I think you might be messing up some place in the mixture or unless where you live it is like 125 degrees.
Did you make sure it was 70% flow improver and 30% thinner? And are you using Vallejo’s flow improver, thinner, and retarder? Are using the formula with Vallejo paints?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 yes, the only brand I got, I might have went a tad over but for the most part I pretty much did what you said, I paint in my apartment it 75° in here
@@John.349 hopefully you still check your messages. So I created a Facebook group and another member had a similar problem that you had shared. We found the issue is Vallejo retarder....it goes bad after a while. So if starts getting cloudy with a silky white color...time to get a new bottle. Or if it starts getting very very gooey, it has gone bad. A new bottle is fairly clear and comes out of the bottle easily.
Hi! It was a very good video! I've been trying to blow Vallejo for three years. I have 3 pistols at home, two Chinese and one H&S Ultra. All three blow it badly, they spit, the blowing is rubbish. It's like there are small fluffs in the paint, but not airborne dust. I also tried your recipe, but unfortunately it's the same, even though I blow it with mist. The pistols are clean, over the years I've tried to adjust everything, but it doesn't work, I give up :)
Vallejp paints have a congealing problem. If you use a wet pallet, you will notice it immediately. Every time you squirt a fresh bottle, it fights and squirts a congealed snotty bit. I may do this several times before the tip clears up. I believe the problem is they are putting the paints in the bottles too dry, so the air inside is dry enough to congeal them.I think they put just a little bit of gel media in their mix, which is why it gels rather than just plain drying out hard like most other paints. I'm experimenting with squeezing them and sucking a few water drops in to see how many drops is needed on average to eliminate that behavior. And yes, that means that the fancy "dropper bottles" everyone seems to praise are actually a pain in the pertushki for anything other than a wet pallet.
DS, glad the video is helpful to you. Funny thing, the most questions I get are airbrushing. So I’m working on an airbrushing video for beginners. So look out for that video in about 2 weeks. But as far as your question; yes I recommend primer. The primer helps acrylics stick, helps find any flaws, and makes the paint uniform.
Hi, yes. Model Color is formulated for brush painting. So it has much more pigment and less carrier liquid. I have a video on how to airbrush Model color using the thinner mixture. I recommend 80/20 thinner mixture to paint.
Hi Jack, I didn't explain it well. But the formula is two parts: liquid and goo. The liquid is 70% flow improver and 30% thinner. Then you take the liquid portion and add to the goo. so equation is 90% liquid + 10% goo. Hopefully, that helps explain it better.
I think of it like this. The flow improver and thinner are the whole (100%). If you imagine that in millilitres (10 mls) then you mix 7 mls improver and 3 mls thinner. This is the whole (100%). You now have a mixture of 10 mls. Add 10% retarder to the whole. 10% of 10 mls is 1 ml, therefore you add an extra 1 ml retarder to the whole giving you 110 mls as your mixture. I hope this helps.
Hi Jerry, the formula works on Vallejo Model Color but the ratio is different. I recommend 80/20, 80% thinner mixture to 20%paint. If you look at my Banshee build, I airbrush model color to paint the kit.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 got it, use 80% of your thinner formula to 20% paint. Watched your banshee video and a few more, learned a lot in a short amount of time! Glad I found your channel.
I'm fascinated by the small nozzle size; seem to go against a lot of tribal knowledge that Vallejo is a large pigment and needs a bigger nozzle the same way Stynylrez does.
Darth, I don't know where this "Vallejo need bigger nozzle" thinking came from either. In my opinion, acrylics work better with a smaller nozzle as they do not cover like enamels/lacquers. Now having said that, I definitely recommend using a bigger nozzle with Stynylrez, like a .5mm or .7mm. Or you will get clogging issues.
The only apprehension I have about this thinner formula is that Flow Improver is slightly more viscous than Thinner, and I worry about it being less likely to atomize.
Daniel, I think your apprehension might be unwarranted. In my opinion, flow improver is no more viscous than Vallejo thinner. If you were to remove the markings from each bottle and compare them against each other. I don't think you would be able to tell the difference between the two. Also, if you watch my video....I am able to get great atomization and extremely fine pencil line quality spraying, using a .3mm airbrush nozzle.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I'll play around with it. Even though Vallejo says that the Airbrush Thinner delays drying time, I've seen others mention the exact opposite. That Airbrush Thinner is a drying accelerant. I'll experiment with your method, as well as some others. Thank you.
@@dbroadwayvfx Good luck, let me know if you have any questions. And as far as drying time, you should find that everything is drying in about 15-20 minutes time. You can even tape over your model (gently of course). If you look at my Bf-109 build video. I first painted the underside and then taped some areas on the topside and airbrushed both sides in under 30 minutes. No issues what so ever with any of the paint being wet. Just make DAMN sure to add a primer first.
New to airbrushing; have cheap airbrush which seems to work fine; thin Vallejo with water; spraying from a distance and slowly; not happy with the finish but particularly disappointed with the fact that the Vallejo paints don't "harden up" like gloss enamels. As I continue to work on the model, I am left with finger and other marks which cannot be removed. Most of the paints are flat. At what point would you add gloss varnish? Would the gloss varnish harden up the paint?
John, if you only learn one thing about acrylics…let it be this: never ever thin acrylics with water for airbrushing. Water thins acrylics but also causes the binding agent to have less adhesion. This is why you’re leaving finger prints in the paint. What might help if you have a hair dryer, use that to dry the paint and that might help. Then add in a gloss varnish for weathering. Be careful with any masking as the paint will be weak. I recommend in the future you prime your model and use my thinning formula in the video and you will get fantastic results!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the response. The model was primed - again thinned with water. Next attempt shall follow your rules and not be such a cheapskate.
@@johncater7861 no worries, you don't know what you don't know. You didn't mention in your original message you thinned the primer with water as well. Use the thinning formula to thin the primer in the future, it will help the primer (assuming your using Vallejo primer or Badger primer) flow and not tip dry. Now having said that, you can use water to thin your Vallejo paints for brush painting. When painting small parts, thinning the paint with water (slight bit of water) will help flow the paint better and a trick gunpla/figure modelers use to create variations. I use this technique to paint my cockpits.
Patrice, I would not recommend using the formula for the resin varnishes. It will make them dry much slower and make them tacky. To thin the Resin Varnishes, I recommend using Vallejo Thinner only at 50/50 ratio at about 15psi. Hope this helps!
Thanks, a great introduction to thinning paint and resolving all the issues I have had previously. Only wish I had seen it sooner and so economical with the paint, amazing.
Tried this formula with 50/50 for the metal colors. Tried at 20psi, with .3mm tip, but I still kept getting dry tip. I need to wipe down the needle pretty often to keep the flow going. Do I need to thin it even further?
Hi Red, do not use this formula with Vallejo Metal colors. It will make them very tacky. Best way to airbrush Vallejo Metal color is to use Tamiya x-22 at 50/50 and lower psi at 12-15. If watch my other videos, I do a full build of a P-51 using Vallejo Metal colors.
Your other vids that use the metal colors mention to use just the flow improver for the new formula, which I have. I'll use just the flow improver since I already have that, and see how it goes. @@arewethereyetmodeling2196
@@redbones01flow improver definitely helps! But after testing I found that Tamiya X-20a works best. Do a test with both and see which works for you the best. Good luck!
I have a problem where after I have applied the basecoat of vallejo, I wash with Citadel wash and it has a reaction where it will either dry very shiny and sticky or will even take the paint off the lower layers. Its very frustrating.
@@danielbear9183 recommend always putting on a gloss or satin coat prior to decals or washes. Even if it’s an acrylic wash, some of the chemicals can eat the paint….even if it’s enamel or lacquer paint.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 i have used citadel washes for years and never had an issue, now I use them after I have painted with the airbrush and it has this reaction. Perhaps its reacting with he thinner/flow improver
@@danielbear9183 run a test and share the results. If you can paint two test pieces. One with the mixture, other without. See if the same thing happens to one or both. Would be helpful for others to learn.
just want to say a big thanks to this video. I always had problems with spraying the paints. After few seconds big mess, no paint, tip dry etc etc. All fun gone with airbrushing because of that. So the hobby was still for a few years..... The fun was gone.
Found this video few days back and it triggered me. So i had to try this. Grabbep an empty bottle, made the mix. Put 5 drops in the airbrush, 6 drops of paint and it worked awesome!!!
The fun is back! No more annoying/fear to paint models after building. So i need to clean the bench now with unfinished models etc :P Also need to try if it works with the vallejo primers. That was also giving me some issues after few minutes of using.
So big thanks again!!! 👍
Glad to hear that it helped you enjoy airbrushing again! For Vallejo primers, I recommend adding in "Future" or if you are in Europe, it is called "Klear". It helps the the primer go rock hard in 30 minutes and makes it easily sandable. If you use my thinner mixture with vallejo primers, make sure to wait 24 hours before sanding. But to be honest, I have moved on from Vallejo primers to Badger primers. Badger primers thinned with my mixture, airbrush beautifully and go rock hard in 30 minutes. Then you can sand them easily!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Will do some testing with the primers :) Used the black primer today but after a few minutes of use it clogged the nozzle. So had to clean that first to prime the other models :P
great video, and great solution 70% airflow 30% thinner. you are a life saver
Glad you like the video. But don't forget the retarder!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Doesn't your formula add up to 110%? Maybe the change from 10 drops retarder to 10% retarder needs more consideration? 🪣
@@tbelcher01
This works perfectly!
Thank you so much for sharing. I've struggled with Vallejo paints drying in the tip so quickly and this just completely eliminated the problem. It also works just as well with the Model Color range as well. I even used it (and your techniques) to thin down and airbrush the thick craft/artist paints. Worked perfectly.
Nigel, I’m glad to hear it worked for you! My only goal was to help my fellow modelers have better results with acrylic. Good to see it’s working:)
Very detailed guide i think i'll give another try for this paints. Thank you. I like airplanes in the end of the video, neat paint job.
Glad you liked the video!
Found your video while doing some research into mixing the various types of Vallejo paints. EXCELLENT technique and it helped me fix a few problems. Recently I was working on a Star Trek model and laid down a nice layer of primer. Then I used a mixture of Vallejo Mecha off-white and Mecha Model Air White to get a very light gray. I had HORRIBLE fisheye and spotting. After doing some tests I found that it was mixing the two types of paints. After I decided to just go with the Mecha Off-White as my primary color it went on fine. Unfortunately, there's some kind of hardener and varnish in the Mecha line that made masking and painting over it an absolute nightmare, even sanding. Something in the paint made the masking tape not providing clean lines. Same tape I've used for MONTHS on half a dozen models. No problem until I used the Mecha paint.
Sorry for rambling. I loved your video and just wanted to share a tidbit, maybe see if you had the same experience.
Glad you liked the video! And Hello to a fellow Trekkie. I can't say I have had the same problem as you. I have been able to mix Vallejo Mecha paints with other Mecha paints, with no problems. I have also been able to mix Mecha paints with other Vallejo paint brands (except for the premium brands). Just my guess....but the bottles you have might have gone bad.
The only time I have had a problem is, when I purchased several bottles of Vallejo paint from a fellow modeler who added in paint stirring balls. But he used the wrong type and the stirring balls rusted slightly. This caused all the bottles to go bad. I could not use any of the paints for airbrush or even brush painting.
Other then that, I have never had any issues with Vallejo paints of any kind.
Thank you, thank you, I’ve tried your combination of thinner etc and for the first time ever I can now airbrush Vallejo paints with confidence. Many many thanks, I will recommend your video to every modeller I know as a log of us struggle with these paints.
Glad I could help! Post pics abs videos of your builds.
Tried this mix and it works perfectly. Thank you.
Glad to hear it worked for you! Please post pics of your build in the Facebook group.
1. Extremely helpful and informative for a newbie like me. 2. Your cat is adorable!
1. Thank you, glad you liked the video. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. 2. She is adorable and spoiled....so a typical cat haha.
I’ve had some great results using Vallejo paints and than next time I can’t get it to play nice at all. Your video has really helped and I just wanted to say a thank you. Looking forward to seeing more help videos
Glad you like the video and it was helpful! Next video I’m planning to advance techniques with Vallejo Metal colors. So be on the look out for that.
4:34 70% thinner, 30% flow improver and 10% retarder? these numbers add up to 110%, which doesn't make sense
Hi drleishaobo introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo/retarder. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more. So liquid 90% + 10% goo/retarder=100%
Very useful update from your prior video. I started using your mix (but using AK retarder as I do not have the Vallejo one), and it works perfectly. Great tutorial! I do also mix my colors in the airbrush cup and never had problems.
Great video and nice presentation. This will be very helpful. That thinner medium is great stuff. I use it as the thinning agent for brush painting instead of thinner or water. It seems to thin the paint without making it too transparent. I also add a small drop of retarder to the mix. My first airbrush was a Badger and I still have an old 100LG that I use from time to time. I just ordered a Badger Sotar from the sale last week to try out for mottling. Like you I have a lot of airbrushes but for 75 dollars I could not pass it up. Keep up the great work!
Scott, I have a Badger Sotar with the fine needle for detail work. It is a great airbrush and you will love it! Glad you liked the video.
I don’t understand the percentage for the retarder. 10% of the total volume? Because 70% flow improver and 30% thinner already adds up to 100%
Hi Andrew, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 what is goo?
If you end up with 100 mls total of thinner and improver, then add 10 mls, or 10 percent medium
@@MastaBorilla i think he means the retarder..
Retarder is not needed IMO, I think ratios are good. My test is how paint drop acts on vertical card.
Thanks for the video. Thanks for the formulas. Have tried both and they work great! Adding the Future to the mix also saves a step and I can start decaling as soon as I let the paint/mixture/future dry. Thanks again for doing your videos! Tom
Thomas, I do the same thing by adding a drop or two if satin varnish. Future is becoming like gold, so I use it sparingly ha.
Great tutorial and very well explained. Thank you for sharing - Subd!
Thank you! Glad you liked the video and I subd to your channel as well.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanks !!
Hi. Thanks a lot for the share. If possible, could you further explain the amount of retarder used?
It is 70% Flow improver
30% Thinner.
And then 10% retarder. So if you make 100ml then it means you add 10ml retarder or + 10% volume on top?
I am a bit confused with the 70/30/10 "percent"
Hi Rivian, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo(retarder). The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more. So you add 90% liquid and 10% retarder=100
Great tutorial. One of best video about it. What should be the dilution for airbrushing model color and vallejo primer. 50/50 or other ?
Sergio, glad you liked the video! For Vallejo Model Color, I have another video on my channel. Recommend you check that video out. As far as Vallejo Primer, I recommend not using the thinner mixture. It increases the drying time…which is not something I recommended. To get the best results from Vallejo primer, I recommend adding in “Future” floor polish. It makes the primer go rock hard in 30 mins and also makes it sandable! But to be honest, I have moved on to Badger Stynylrez primers. They are amazing! They go rock hard and super easy to sand. I thin the badger primers with the thinner solution (60:40) at 25psi. And you get good results and a nice smooth finish!
Brilliant video and thanks for sharing.
Few questions if I may, since you have made me thinking of converting from lacquer based paints:
1. What about drying time and paint durability afterwards (are they easily scratched off or prone to have fingerprints on them, handling in general) ?
2. Does the paint "tolerate" the rest of the modelling procedure, like decal softeners, weathering with oils etc?
3. Which varnishes (gloss & flat) do you recommend to use on top of these, vallejo air or something different?
Thank you, glad you liked the video. Regarding your questions,
1) The paints will dry in about 15 minutes. If you look at my other videos, I handle the paints with my bare hands and no gloves on. No issue of leaving finger prints or paint rubbing off, etc. They are fairly scratch resistant....but this is subjective, because how hard are you scratching the paint? But overall handling and drying time is very good. I painted the entire Bf-109 in about 35-40 minutes. That includes black basing and several light main coats.
2) Yes, the paint will tolerate the rest of the modeling procedure if you have a gloss coat on. I use AK extreme Gauzy agent. I let it dry for 15-20 mins and then use enamel washes with no problems what so ever. I know some modelers recommend waiting minimum of 24 hours. I also use the strongest decal setting solution, Solvaset, and the paint holds up just fine.
3) So for my final flat coat, I go with Vallejo Matte Varnish. I personally think it leaves a very nice Matte finish that is not completely a dead flat. I will say if you decide to use the Vallejo Matte, you HAVE TO LET it dry for 24 hours....no exception. I also use to use Tamiya Flat as well, which goes rock hard in 2 hours. For gloss coats for decaling/weathering, I stick with AK Gauzy agent....but before that I use to use Future.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any further questions.
10 drops or 10 percent is the same thing when your adding to 100 percent filled bottle
Thank you for the video
Thank you, glad you like the video.
I love my Badger airbrushes. I just can’t get the double action right. That’s why I use the Badger 350 and adjust the paint flow at the nozzle.
Daniel, the 350 is a good airbrush. I recommend you look at the Paasche VL, it is a siphon feed double action airbrush. But you can use it as a single action airbrush like the 350. It has a roller in-front of the trigger that makes it into a single action. The good thing is about the VL is that it has different options for the needle sizes so it gives you versatility. Plus, the VL is super cheap! You can grab one for 25 -- 30 dollars and it is a tank and will last for a long time.
I am 66 and just retired. I am doing scale model aircraft. W.W.2. Thank you so much your mixture really helped me plus improved the painting. One question if I may...When weathering and using washes do I gloss coat over the acrylic paint job first then dry and then apply the wash to bring out panel lines and rivits.
Hi Woody, glad you liked the video. As far as your question, yes you must apply a gloss coat and let it dry, then add the decals (gloss coat makes decaling easier), then after decaling you can add another light gloss to protect the decals (if required). Then you can add a wash to bring out the panel lines.
Vallejo recommends 1-2 drops of Flow Improver per 10 drops of paint. I'm skeptical of anyone who says to use 7X that. To begin with you are trying to use a needle that is way too small for Vallejo acrylic to flow properly. Try something more like 0.4mm; then you can thin and use the flow improver according to the manufacturers recommendations.
BTW, why would anyone own 50 airbrushes?
I know what Vallejo recommends and I have spoken to them about their recommendations. Vallejo has even let me post this video in their official Facebook. The issue is that majority of their focus was figure painting and gunpla. When you airbrush figures you don't have to go consistently for 30-40 mins. You shoot bursts of paint, and having a small amount flow improver works just fine. But if you want to shoot consistent paint for a long period of time, you will never ever get results using just a small bit of flow improver. AND it does not matter if you use a .4mm or even .7mm. When you airbrush for a long period of time you will get tip drying even with a large needle.
As far as using a needle size two small...you must not have watched my other videos. I don't know where people learn you have to use a large needle set up with acrylics. It is not true at all, I use nothing but small needle setup in my airbrushing all the time because I like the control and there is NO ISSUE WHAT SO EVER. If you watch airbrush artist videos....they all use acrylics and small needle/nozzle setups.
I didn't just come up with this formula out of thin air. I am a former professional airbrush artist with 25 years of experience working with print companies and magazines. I worked on this formula for a while and asked my professional airbrush artist friend to test it and tell me what they think. Try the formula and what I recommend and then see if you change your mind and or not. And btw, that is why I have 50 airbrushes.
Watch the Bf-109 video and the Skyraider video. Hopefully, that might help you understand and change your mind.
Great mix - what needs to change if I'm still getting tip dry?
Compared game air with and without the mix - color is full strength out of the bottle in 2-3 coats.
With the mix the finish looks better but half the color intensity at 5 coats.
Surprised how durable it is even without primer.
Hi Lemur, so a couple of questions. First your color intensity should not change what so ever. Unless you are thinning the paint to much and if you thin acrylic paint it becomes translucent. And not sure why you are getting tip dry, you should not be getting tip dry.
1) Are you sure you are following the mixture properly and using Vallejo products? I have found there are problems when you don't use Vallejo flow improver, thinner, and retarder. Just to reiterate that the equation is 90% liquid + 10% retarder. And the Liquid is 70& flow improver + 30% thinner. And make sure it is thinner and not airbrush cleaner.
2) Are you thinning your paint properly, you should be thinning about 50/50 or 60/40 for most of the time. More than then that, your paint is going to be translucent but you can build it up.
3) is your airbrush clean? If you're airbrush is clean, paint can build up in the nozzle area and you will get drying into the nozzle.
4) Do you live in a very hot environment?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 yes, followed exactly as shown in the video.
The thinning is making it more transparent which in turn requires more coats.
Using vortex mixer to prep each step out of the airbrush.
Used two different airbrushes just to confirm. Yes there was less tip drip but it still happened after about 10 minutes of detail spraying - which happens with all acrylics.
Tried your mix with model color, game air and model air using your different ratios.
It's ok - these were just my findings
Interesting. I can go 40 minutes airbrushing no problems. The only other thing I can think off is if you’re work bench the light setup might be increasing temperature and causing drying. Increase the retarder to 20% but keep the liquid portion same. Let me know it goes, email me: arewethereyetmodeling@gmail.com
Thanks for the formula. First time trying it works great. Can you do one or have you done one on spraying vallejo primer and varnish
David, I have a video on how to best spray Vallejo primers, check it out. And as far as Varnishes, I think Vallejo varnishes with Vallejo thinner at 50/50.
Vallejo airbrush paints never hardens 100% It stays sticky, even after weeks of drying. Am I doing something wrong?
Hey, sorry to hear you’re having issues. Can you tell me how you’re thinning your paints? And what is the temperature where you live?
Interesting my Vallejo thinner is like a white liquid and the retarder was like a thick gel so it was hard to know how much retarder to use. I did think with certain colors you have to play around with it as some colors it seemed the paint was too thick.
Ps. Ok so I found out that I used Thinner Medium instead of Airbrush thinner I did not know the're are two different kinds.
@@jlcsr9163 hey we all make mistakes. Hopefully now you create the formula and start airbrushing.
Hi there, I've recently started airbrushing and found this very informative. Thanks for the video! I've had a lot of issues with the paint being very splattered and could not figure out what was going on. Will definetely experiment with air pressure and different thinner-paint mixture ratios. I do have 1 question, you mentioned good trigger control over paint and airflow. The paint part I understand, do you play around with the airflow during airbrushing? With the trigger? I have a H&S evolution so it is possible to also control the airflow. What I've been doing so far is just pressing the trigger down all the way for airflow and then adjusting only the paint flow.
Shadow, glad you liked the video and it was helpful for you. Regarding your question: yes, you must play around with the airflow via the airbrush trigger. Here is some general guidance that might help you. The closer you are to the surface of the model, the less air and paint you want. But as you further away you want to increase the paint and airflow.
What pressure do you use for such a thin lines?
Dr, I use 20 psi and my paint is thinned at 60% paint to 40% thinner. Sometimes I will do 50/50 paint to thinner mixture. A lot depends on your airbrush and it's settings. Start with 20 psi and 60/40 paint to thinner ratio and go from there.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanx!
Thanks for the updated video.... very helpful information. Picky question regarding the thinning mixture. You state: 70% Flow Improver, 30% Thinner, and 10% Retarder (total 110%). Is that correct, or did you mean 70 / 20 / 10 or 60 / 30 / 10 for the mixture (total 100%)?
David, picky questions are good. 70% Flow Improver, 30% Thinner, and 10% Retarder (total 110%) is correct.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I'm 110% confused.
@@bryanjensen6095 so am I 🤷🏻♂
@@bryanjensen6095 If you were mixing up in milliliters, you'd do 7ml Flow Improver, 3ml Thinner, and 1ml retarder.
@@bryanjensen6095 so easiest way is, of the liquid stuff: 70% flow improver and 30% thinner (do not use the cleaner, make sure it’s the thinner), and 10% added to the total of liquid of the gooey medium retarder.
It is just works. Thanks for sharing this great idea.
@@igorrabinovich3386 glad to hear it’s working for you!
70%+30%+10% = 110%. Can you please explain the actual formula.
@@coolts So introspective I didn’t clearly explain myself. Here are two ways which might help clarify things:
The way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. The retarder is just the retarder.
You don’t need to be precise with the retarder portion. If you live in a colder environment you might only need 3-5% retarder and the rest liquid mixture. But if you live in a hotter environment like me, you probably want to do around 10% retarder. The thing I want everyone to note, you have to have all 3 ingredients for the formula to work effectively.
And here is an even more simplified way:
7 part flow improver, 3 parts thinner and 1 part retarderd
Doing my best not to launch all my Vallejo paints and get stabby with my airbrush needle this afternoon!..🤬🤬 I’ll give this mix a go when the Valium has kicked in and see if my sanity will return.
Haha, Jon I get it. But I promise if you follow my instructions you will have great results and your blood pressure will return to normal 😊
Hi, really appreciated this video, I have not try out the formula yet, but it will be on my next step on my journey of learning airbrushing.
I am a little confused on the formula though:
So 70% Flow Improver + 30% Thinner = 100%, how do we calculate the 10% Retarder?
Is it 10% of the previous mixture?
Or it is rather 70% + 30% + 10%? Like 7 drops of Flow, 3 drops of Thinner and then 1 drop of Retarder?
Many Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
Hey glad you like the video! I didn’t explain the formula mathproperly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Yeah, it does, thanks a lot for the quick response!!!
Hey, I was just watching (again) your video and I heard you mentioned the Hataka paints. I was searching yesterday on YT for videos related to these paints cause I'm interested in using them on my spitfire build but didn't find any thorough/useful (at least what I define thorough/useful) video. I really liked the accuracy of these colors and the wide range Hataka offers. Do you have any tips to give me on their acrylics - Red line like, with what thinners they work best, ratio, airbrush needle and psi. Tbh my airbrush is a very basic,cheap "all in one" kit and doesn't go above 15psi, at 21psi it turns off automatically I think. Thank you very much in advance!
Hi, yes I can give you tips on Hataka Red line. So I tested with my thinner mixture (the one in this video) a while back. The mixture in my video works on all water based acrylics
With the red line, I did 60:40 thinner to paint ratio at around 18psi. They worked really well at that range and thinning.
Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you very much!
I've seen another video (from person also has decades of experience) that recommended the opposite ratio of 80% thinner and 20% flow improver. I'm wondering if the difference is a matter of preference or if the optimal mix might be dependent on variables such as type of airbrush, humidity or something like that? Or perhaps the exact ratio is not very critical?
Robert, this is a great question. There are numerous mixture formulas out there for Vallejo/ammo, etc. And before I came up with my formula I looked at those other formulas. Here is the key question to ask when you decide which formula you want to use. What are you painting? Yes, you can 80/20 thinner/flow improver to get results. But the problem is, all the other formulas I looked at were short-term solutions. What do I mean by that? You can use the mixture to do short-term airbrushing. And if you are shooting paint rather than airbrushing paint....like Gunpla figure builders do, then these other mixtures work fine. But I go for long periods of time where I need consistent performance....so my goal was to come up with something that would give me consistent results for long long airbrushing sessions. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 video, I airbrush for over 40 mins (built was speed up 2x) with no issues. You will not get that with the other mixtures. I know I tested them. The other benefit of creating a long performing mixture is that it also works very very well for short term performance. Lastly, another thing that my mixture does that I only learned about later from professional artists. The three ingredients combined together to form a polyurethane addictive that makes the paint more resilient. This is something that professional artists use all the time to make their paints work better and become stronger. But don't take my word for it, do a test with the other formula and mine. I bet you money the other formula you will get tip drying in about 5 mins.
Thanks for such a thoughtful reply!
Hi, will try this mixture, I already use an aproxima-te formule, however I don’t have the vallejo reterder, but the ak one! The one with a turtle in the label, do you think this is similar?
@@brunolopes9900 hi, it should be alright as long as the retarder is still good. Retarder does go bad after some time. If it’s really hard to squeeze out. Then it might be bad and will not work.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196yeah. The one from ak is actually way more líquid. It’s not a paste like the Vallejo one. I’ll do the mix and let you know how it goes
Thanks so much 👍
You're very welcome!
I am going to try out your thinner mix with my Stynylrez primer. One friendly critique when you were spraying the red at about the 7:00 mark saying there was no tip dry- I didn’t see any starting/stoping. Wouldn’t running non stop not allow the tip to dry? But I am hopeful your recipe will help my priming - thanks for the video!
@@fonkyjoe hey, so I gave a video on my channel where I use my thinner mixture with Stynylrez. It works well! Because it allows the primer to follow better. So definitely do it.
Regarding your comment for the 7:00 mark. I didn’t show the full video, I had to edit the video and speed it up because it was about 5 mins long. So I did stop many times and restart.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I tried the thinner mix with Stynylrez today - was a little nervous as to how thin it was, but it worked great- no tip dry issues either. Thanks for this!
@@fonkyjoe awesome! Glad it worked for you. Just remember to give it 50 mins to dry since it’s thinner.
Very nice, and informative video.
I'm 73 years old. You just taught this old dog a new trick ! Thanks so much for the update.
Oh, and you have some really nice builds there. Keep up the great work ! 😊
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it.
Thanks for a great video, im new to airbrushing and this really helps me :)
Glad you like the video and welcome to airbrushing. You will really love it!
Interesting fact that non acrylic and acrylic paints are equally bad for your health, regardless of the smell. What is more, odorless acrylics give a false sense of safety because of their very user and home friendly properties. I highly recommend to use spraybooth or at least a proper respirator when you spray these paints.
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you like my channel. Feel free to reach out any time!
For your thinning mixture formula you stated 70 flow improver, 30 thinner, and 10 retarder. That's over 100 parts. What's the correct ratio for each?
Hey, that is a good question. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Yes that makes sense. Now I’m to ponder how to portion out the retarder.
Say we use a drop as one unit. That’d be 7 drops improver and 3 drops thinner for the 90%. To make it “whole” you’d use 1.5 drops retarder?
(Gonna have to work out that math later)
Oh it’s 1.11 retarder
Can I just use Vallejo thinner to thin the paint ? Also does model air needs to be thinned or not ?
Hey, you can use Vallejo thinner to thin both Vallejo Model Color and Model Air. While Vallejo states that Model Air is pre-thinned for airbrushing. That is not fully accurate, because they tested the paint in particular laboratory conditions. Unless you have the same conditions in your hobby room, you won't get the same results. Thus you have to thin the paint properly. For the best results, I recommend using the thinner mixture in my video. It will give you consistent airbrushing results and makes the paint more resilient.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Do you think also 17mL of Vallejo brown will be enough to paint the top of my Spitfire Tamiya MK1 1/48?
@@OdysseyAviation oh yes, more than enough. You will probably only need 20 drops of paint.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Hover i only have Vallejo airbrush thinner nothing else
@@OdysseyAviation you can use the thinner to airbrush. I would recommend thinning the paint 50/50 at 18 psi. But you will get tip dry more often with just the thinner. So just be aware of that and make sure to keep wiping the needle as needed.
Thank you for this. It works great. What mixture do you recommend for Vallejo primer?
Gregory, I made a video on how to airbrush Vallejo primers. I do not recommend using any thinner mixture with primers. It increases the drying time. I mix in "Future" instead...not sure if you are in the US or Europe, I believe it is called "Klear" in Europe. Mix future with Vallejo primers and this will make the primer go hard in about 20 mins. You can start sanding without the primer rolling up on itself.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Future has been discontinued as of Jan 2022. "Looks like Glass" by Deluxe Materials is my replacement for it.
Very helpfull and good Video
Does this method work with the Vallejo Premium Colors (the mixing formular)
Good question. I’m not sure as I have never tried with the Vallejo Premium paints. I believe it should work as they are acrylic polyurethane paints, and the thinner and flow improver work on polyurethane
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thanks, will test it
Quick question: you say the formula is 70% flow improver and 30% thinner, but then say that 10% is retarder medium. Did I mishear the ratios?
Hey, that is a good question. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense?
Awesome, thanks!@@arewethereyetmodeling2196
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 So 63% flow improver, 27% thinner, 10% retarder? Probably easier to measure out 60%, 30%, 10% (6:3:1).
90% liquid + 10% retarder=100. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30% thinner= Liquid portion
So what if you can't get your hands on any of these thinners
Brent, if you can’t get the Vallejo thinner/flow improver/retarder. If you can find an art store nearby they will have similar items you can use. Hope this helps!
Hi, I have a question... I am new to the airbrush. If I am using acrylics and backfilling, and each session isn't very long, after how many painting sessions should I thoroughly clean my airbrush? I want to take good care of this thing, and have zero experience.
Thank you so much! Your video has been very helpful!
Hey, so I am gonna drive cleaning airbrushes into two categories. Simple clean and through clean. Simple clean is cleaning your airbrush everytime you use your airbrush. Through clean, you should do once a month just to be on the safe side. I have a video in my channel titled "Airbrush tips and tricks" recommend you check out that out for cleaning techniques. Hope this helps!
is this formula just for vallejo model air or can it be used with all version of vallejo paints?
Hi, you can use this formula with Vallejo Model Color. I have a video on airbrushing model color on my channel. More importantly, you can use this formula with any “water-based” acrylic paint (Ammo, AK, Army painters, etc). Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks...will check out the video
Would there be any benefit to just adding flow improver directly into the paint bottle? Assuming you only spray that color?
Magnus, if you plan to use the whole bottle fairly soon. Then there shouldn’t be a problem. But if you leave the bottle sitting with the flow improver inside, eventually it will separate the paint pigment from the carrier liquid and you won’t be able to airbrush the paint anymore.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I was curious if something like that would happen. Thank you.
Very helpful, but the percentages are confusing as others have said. Rather than percentages would using drops be a better way to understand the formula? For example, 7 drops of flow improver plus 3 drops of thinner and then 1 drop of retarder. which is 10 percent of the base mixture. Is that correct?
Hey so sorry for my belated reply. Unfortunately, I didn’t really explain it well. So hopefully this better explanation makes sense. So think of the mixture as a math equation: 90% liquid + 10% retarder. The liquid portion is made of 70% flow improver + 30% airbrush thinner. Does that make more sense?
But more importantly, the reason I did percentages was that people wanted to mix large batches and not just do one at a time.
In your video
So what is the exact formula exactly?
Hi, introspect I didn’t explain that properly. So the way to look at is, the formula is 2 parts: 90% liquid + 10% goo. The liquid portion is 70% flow improver + 30%thinner. Hope this clarifies things more.
Thank you for uploading a lot of informational video which helps us who are just starting to get into the hobby. Would like to get your thoughts. does your thinning mixture work with vallejo mecha lineup? would there be a difference of the paint to thinner ratio?
Hi yes it works with mecha line as well! Several modelers have tested it out with the mecha line. I believe that mecha comes in two lines, a ready to airbrush line and brush painting line. For the airbrush line, thin it 50/50. For the brush paint, thin it 80/20 (thinner to paint)
How do you measure the % of the mixture? Do you do it by volume, weight, or just drops?
Hi, I do it by volume. I have it marked on my bottle from testing and just use that as my guide. Hope that helps!
Finally, when things are just right, you mentioned "adjusted for temperature". However this is never explained (or else I missed it). I followed the thinning and air pressure adjustments - what compensation do you do for temperature?
This one is not as big of a factor and so I didn't go into it as much. Temperature affects paint (all types of paint) but that is really more if you live in a very hot place or very cold place. If you live in a moderate climate (say between 60 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit)....honestly its not something you need to really worry about. It would take to long to type how paint is impacted by temperature...I can send you a video that explains it.
Good evening.
70+30+10=110…so is it 70%+30%+10 drops? Thank you!
My grandson (AJ) & I are working together through WWII model aircraft building. Unfortunately…we purchased Vallejo Air, Model Color and Game Color.
We can airbrush the V-Air right OOTB. The MC and GC we can’t airbrush no matter what we do. If we thin it enough to spray, it’s colored water…
Paasche with .38mm at 15-20 psi. We’re going to purchase the V materials to make your home-brew. MAN I hope we can make it work. We spend much more $ and grandma is going to….
Thanks. Your videos are e x c e l l e n T!
Paw and AJ, I hope you enjoy your build! Yes 70+30+10 is correct. If you look at my Model color airbrushing video I have a ratio for airbrushing Model Color and should same for Game Color.
Also, what Paasche airbrush are you using? If it’s a siphon feed you might need to increase air pressure a bit. To see if the paint is ready to airbrush, use the back flush method. Look for bubbles like you get when you blow into chocolate milk.
If you need anymore assistance, email me directly and I’ll be happy to help anyway I can. My email: davisstudent25@gmail.com
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you! We will email you. I think we are confused. AJ is here all weekend :-)
Hi thank you for the video and formula receipt. Does this work with 3rd gen acrylics by AK interactive? I have terrible time with those (clogging completely etc). Also is it possible to mix AK thinner, AK flowimproover and Vallejo retarder medium?
Hi, so yes it does. I created a Facebook group for acrylic users and one of our members tested Ak 3rd gen with the mixture formula. He was able to get pencil lines with the paint. His post is in the group feed. He did one issue, he used 2 different airbrushes, one worked great the other didn't. A fellow modeler has sent me some AK 3rd paints, I am going to do a test with them and post a video soon (I hope).
As far as using AK thinner, flow improver, vallejo retarder. I don't know....but I think it should work. The only issue I know what AK thinner is that you cannot use it with Vallejo paints, it has an ingredient that ruins the Vallejo paints.
Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 fantastic, thans for your reply! I will try it next week so I will post the result here after. One more question - I got the retarder and it is really thick (like honey) - how do you measure it? I can’t imagine to put it in the pipette.
@@davidriha3125 so if it’s really thick and foggy it has gone bad. Don’t use it, retarder will go bad by itself fairly quickly if not kept in the right conditions. Grab a new bottle, it should come off pretty easy.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 So, i’ve just tried your formula for AK interactive 3rd gen acrylics with white crown bottlehead (formula mixed of AK interactive flow improver (black label with orange AK logo), AK 3rd gen thinner (white label, not the one with orange cap and blue water on label) and Vallejo retarder medium). The paint/formula mixture roughly 50:50. It worked on 100%! Perfect coverage, no tip drying and even though my trigger control was just awful (I even let the trigger lose directly from back position) there was no clog no tip dry nothing. So I can confirm that your formula is working with ak 3rd gen acrylics. I cannot explain how this helped me. You literally saved my hobby since I was spraying gunze laquers and it is not possible anymore due to new family members. Thank you and cheers!
@@davidriha3125 I am so glad to hear! Please join the Facebook group I created and post your results.
You are spot on here. I had terrible trouble with Vallejo acrylics initially. Did exactly what you said and perfect results. I thin 50:50 and add 10% retarder, 23 psi in my Iwata Eclipse. I actually put on 14 coats of paint on one model and they went on so thin that it looks like only 1 coat was applied - no detail lost. Excellent video 👍👍
David, glad the mixture worked well for you! And you got it exactly, the mixture helps the paints airbrush well and lay down without hiding the details. You can create different effects this way and get fantastic results with acrylics.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Thank you for the overview. Can you please demonstrate the proper way to spray, if you have larger model sections to paint, for example when building the DKM U-BOAT 1/48 SCALE. THANK YOU
Hey, I am glad you like the video. So I didn't know what a 1/48 DKM U-boat was and had to look it up. Wow, that is a big model, haha. Unfortunately, I don't have a model that big to do a video on. I mostly build model 1/48 airplanes and 1/35 tanks....which are much smaller than the U-boat. I am currently working on a 1/48 Skyraider and that is a pretty big model by airplane standards. Hopefully that might give you some insight. What I will say is, I used repair large paint works. I would recommend a .5mm or .7mm needle airbrush. I would go in section and assemble the painted parts separately. For such a big model, you might want to look at a siphon feed airbrush because it can hold much more paint. Look at a Paasche VL, airbrush artists use it for large paint projects and you can pick it up super cheap. I hope this is helpful. If you need more direct help, email me at davisstudent25@gmail.com
70% Flow Improver + 30% Thinner + 10% Retanger as you said = 110% ?
Hi LeLong, so there are 2 parts to the equation. A liquid part and a goo part. The liquid part is 70% flow improver & 30% thinner. So the equation is 90% liquid portion to 10% goo.
I've bought me a cheap airbrush because I want to learn this process but I'm having problems getting it to come through the brush and I know I might be doing something wrong because I can put cleaner in it and it comes threw good far as I can tell so what can I do to fix this I'm going to leave a picture of the paint I'm using and the cheap airbrush I'm using please help.
Johnny, happy to help. You mention you are going to leave a picture but I don't see one. Can you email directly at arewethereyetmodeling@gmail.com. Tell me everything you did: 1) how you made the thinner mixture. 2) what was your thinner to paint ratio. 3) your psi. 4) how did you mix the paint in the bottle. 5) what needle size are you using. Best way I can help you is if I have all the details.
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I mixed in the cup on the sprayer a d also mixed it in a little clear plastic cup and put it in the sprayer and still would t work like I said I bought a cheap one for 35.00 and I really couldn't afford it but I really want to learn out to do it but I didn't use thinner I'll take a picture of what I'm using and the sprayer in the pictures you'll see the stuff I used because on the bottle it says I can use this so that's what I did and I may have to stick to a paint can and thanks for trying to help me sorry I don't know how to send a picture to you
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I don't know how I done it but I posted it on here I thought it came to you but I don't know what it posted too because I don't know how to take a picture and send it to you sorry.
@@johnnyparker932are you on Facebook? I have a group on Facebook and if we connect there I can chat with you directly.
@arewethereyetmodeling2196 well im on face book what's the na.e of the group and I'll send you a friend request .
this was the exactly problem I am having right now. I hope this will be my fix.
@@dtcez let me know how it goes and feel free to reach out if you have questions.
the first i learnd . the rigth consistenz is like milk
Oh yes! Thank you sir, that was just about as idiot proof (for the likes of me) as anyone can get. Very clear and careful naration. Superb.
Thank you! Glad you like.
Awesome video to help modellers switch water based paints. May i ask your thinning ratio when airbrushing Vallejo Model Colors?
Hi Alvin, I have a video on my channel for thinning Vallejo Model Colors and how to brush paint as well. Check it out, I think it might be helpful to you.
Really enjoyed the video. My go to paint is MRP but I want to switch to acrylics because of the fumes. Have you had any luck with Ammo by MIG paints? I like tho color selection but I just can't get them to airbrush.
Jay, glad you liked the video. My go to paints were the Hataka orange line lacquers. There smell was just to much for me. I have used Ammo paints but it was before I created my formula. But at the time, I was never able to get them to work right. I might have to pick up a bottle and do some testing. Bring that Vallejo and Ammo paints are very similar….I think formula might work on Ammo paints.
Well, it's a major game changer for me. I have owned an airbrush for many years, but I have seldom used it because of difficulties with using it. After following your recommendations, all that is in the past. Thank you a million for your video. I will post a picture of my model once I finish it.
I am so happy to hear! Glad my videos have helped you start loving airbrush. I have created a Facebook group, please feel free to post your pictures there!
If you were using Vallejo Model Color instead of Model Air, how would you change the mix? My gut feel would be 70% thinner-mixture to 30% Model Color. What do you think?
Bryan, if you look on my channel you will see I made a video on how to airbrush Model Color as well. And you are not that far off the mark on the ratio!
Awesome! Do you know if your mixes/ ratios work well with Vallejo Mecha line?
Yes, they work with all Vallejo paints except with Vallejo Premium....as I haven't tired them yet. With the mecha lines, I believe one line is airbrush ready and the other is made for airbrushing.....if I am remembering correctly. With the airbrush line, do 50/50 thinner to primer. With the brush paint version, 80/20 thinner to paint.
Can you please review and make a similar video for the AK Interactive 3rd generation acrylics?
Sure, give me 2 weeks.
So I bought badger Grey acrylic primer, vallejo airbrush thinner, flow improver and retarder. I am wondering if I need the future in the mix for priming? Thanks for all the airbrush info!
Hey, so you can do two things to make Vallejo primer more stronger, more airbrush-able, and sand-able. One is to add in Future…but since Future is more expensive than gold…that’s not the best option anymore haha.
The second thing you can do to get the best results with Vallejo primers is to use the thinner mixture in my video. It will make the primer airbrush better, less clogging, smoother finish, and most importantly you can sand the primer after about an hour. I recommend 70/30 primer to thinner mixture at 20-25 psi (based on your airbrush).
I also have a video on acrylic primers on my channel. I would recommend checking it out
Please give me recipe again for thinking Vallejo acrylic paint
Thinning!! My mistake
@@joelslutsky7370 the recipe is 7 parts flow improver, 3 parts thinner, 1 part retarder
How many parts paint?
@@joelslutsky7370I recommend starting at 50/50 thinner to paint at 18-20 psi. Depending on where you live, if it’s really hot…you want your do 60/40 thinner to paint. Make sure to share the bottle really well.
Hi, how much do you add retarder to the paint?
@@AlexG-ex4sg hi, I don’t add retarder directly to the paint. I add it into the mixture with the thinner and flow improver. But the formula is: 7 parts flow improver, 3 parts thinner, 1 part retarder.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thx
Hi! 🙂 Is it okay to use bigger needles for bigger model, in example the hull of a ship?
Hey, yes you can use a big needle setup, .5 or .7. Just make your paint is thinned properly and psi is good (bigger needles you typically don't need as much psi, keep that in mind) But to be honest, you really won't need it. If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 build, I did that entire kit using a .2mm needle. Smaller needle gives you more precise control and it is better to small sections than large. I have noticed that when people use bigger needles they tend to flood the paint. So just be aware of that. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196thank you, appreciate it!
Could you give me email or something to ask for advice... I don't want to ruin your video with my rookie questions.... 🙂
Thank you in advance!
Sure, feel free email me at davisstudent25@gmail.com
I make my thinner mixture from 90%IPA, distilled water, and a few drops of glycerin. Sprays beautifully.
Because IPA has such a low vapor pressure it evaporates much faster than water and is one of the prime reasons for tip drying.
Dude…THANK YOU. I found your video today, and on a whim I tried your method. Totally works!! Well, like 98% works as I probably need to do some minor adjustments. But still, I can see this will save me from ditching all the Vallejo Air products that have frustrated me for months!
Thanks again!
Mike, glad I could help. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
What do you think - Could I also use the Tamiya Retarder?
Never tried Tamiya retarder. Try it and see what happens.
Great tutorial!
Thank you so much for the kind words. I’m glad you liked the video.
I'm a beginner, I feel like 10% retarder is a little much for me, it's been over 30 mins and the paint is still wet.
John, can you tell me how you are making the thinner mixture? It should not be wet for 30 minutes. If you look at my build videos, I am holding my model by hand without gloves almost right after painting. I think you might be messing up some place in the mixture or unless where you live it is like 125 degrees.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I got a small bottle marked the halfway point quarter and 3/4 mark and just did the 70-30-10
Did you make sure it was 70% flow improver and 30% thinner? And are you using Vallejo’s flow improver, thinner, and retarder? Are using the formula with Vallejo paints?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 yes, the only brand I got, I might have went a tad over but for the most part I pretty much did what you said, I paint in my apartment it 75° in here
@@John.349 hopefully you still check your messages. So I created a Facebook group and another member had a similar problem that you had shared. We found the issue is Vallejo retarder....it goes bad after a while. So if starts getting cloudy with a silky white color...time to get a new bottle. Or if it starts getting very very gooey, it has gone bad. A new bottle is fairly clear and comes out of the bottle easily.
Hi! It was a very good video! I've been trying to blow Vallejo for three years. I have 3 pistols at home, two Chinese and one H&S Ultra. All three blow it badly, they spit, the blowing is rubbish. It's like there are small fluffs in the paint, but not airborne dust. I also tried your recipe, but unfortunately it's the same, even though I blow it with mist. The pistols are clean, over the years I've tried to adjust everything, but it doesn't work, I give up :)
Hi, I’m sorry to hear you’re having issues. Email me, and maybe I can help you figure it out. My email: davisstudent25@gmail.com
Vallejp paints have a congealing problem. If you use a wet pallet, you will notice it immediately. Every time you squirt a fresh bottle, it fights and squirts a congealed snotty bit. I may do this several times before the tip clears up.
I believe the problem is they are putting the paints in the bottles too dry, so the air inside is dry enough to congeal them.I think they put just a little bit of gel media in their mix, which is why it gels rather than just plain drying out hard like most other paints.
I'm experimenting with squeezing them and sucking a few water drops in to see how many drops is needed on average to eliminate that behavior.
And yes, that means that the fancy "dropper bottles" everyone seems to praise are actually a pain in the pertushki for anything other than a wet pallet.
Very informative. I’ve never airbrushed, but want to try. Do I have to use a primer, or can I just spray directly on the model?
DS, glad the video is helpful to you. Funny thing, the most questions I get are airbrushing. So I’m working on an airbrushing video for beginners. So look out for that video in about 2 weeks. But as far as your question; yes I recommend primer. The primer helps acrylics stick, helps find any flaws, and makes the paint uniform.
good video. if i use Vallejo Model Color do i just need to thin it a bit more?
Hi, yes. Model Color is formulated for brush painting. So it has much more pigment and less carrier liquid. I have a video on how to airbrush Model color using the thinner mixture. I recommend 80/20 thinner mixture to paint.
So your formula is 70% flow improver, 30% thinner... (that's 100%) and 10% Retarder? Must be that new math!
Hi Jack, I didn't explain it well. But the formula is two parts: liquid and goo. The liquid is 70% flow improver and 30% thinner. Then you take the liquid portion and add to the goo. so equation is 90% liquid + 10% goo. Hopefully, that helps explain it better.
I think of it like this. The flow improver and thinner are the whole (100%). If you imagine that in millilitres (10 mls) then you mix 7 mls improver and 3 mls thinner. This is the whole (100%). You now have a mixture of 10 mls. Add 10% retarder to the whole. 10% of 10 mls is 1 ml, therefore you add an extra 1 ml retarder to the whole giving you 110 mls as your mixture. I hope this helps.
@@PennyWyatt-wc7bkthat is a very good means of looking at it. Never thought of it that way before, thanks!
70% flow improver + 30% thinner + 10% Retarder = 110%? That needs to be clarified.
Yea, I should have explained that equation better, ha. But hopefully it made some sense to you?
1 litre of the other two and plus 100ml of the other.
Took me years to figure out on my own!
Would this ratio work for Vallejo model color as well? Not sure as it is thicker than Vallejo air color. Great video, thanks!
Hi Jerry, the formula works on Vallejo Model Color but the ratio is different. I recommend 80/20, 80% thinner mixture to 20%paint. If you look at my Banshee build, I airbrush model color to paint the kit.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 got it, use 80% of your thinner formula to 20% paint. Watched your banshee video and a few more, learned a lot in a short amount of time! Glad I found your channel.
I'm fascinated by the small nozzle size; seem to go against a lot of tribal knowledge that Vallejo is a large pigment and needs a bigger nozzle the same way Stynylrez does.
Darth, I don't know where this "Vallejo need bigger nozzle" thinking came from either. In my opinion, acrylics work better with a smaller nozzle as they do not cover like enamels/lacquers. Now having said that, I definitely recommend using a bigger nozzle with Stynylrez, like a .5mm or .7mm. Or you will get clogging issues.
The only apprehension I have about this thinner formula is that Flow Improver is slightly more viscous than Thinner, and I worry about it being less likely to atomize.
Daniel, I think your apprehension might be unwarranted. In my opinion, flow improver is no more viscous than Vallejo thinner. If you were to remove the markings from each bottle and compare them against each other. I don't think you would be able to tell the difference between the two. Also, if you watch my video....I am able to get great atomization and extremely fine pencil line quality spraying, using a .3mm airbrush nozzle.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I'll play around with it. Even though Vallejo says that the Airbrush Thinner delays drying time, I've seen others mention the exact opposite. That Airbrush Thinner is a drying accelerant. I'll experiment with your method, as well as some others. Thank you.
@@dbroadwayvfx Good luck, let me know if you have any questions. And as far as drying time, you should find that everything is drying in about 15-20 minutes time. You can even tape over your model (gently of course). If you look at my Bf-109 build video. I first painted the underside and then taped some areas on the topside and airbrushed both sides in under 30 minutes. No issues what so ever with any of the paint being wet. Just make DAMN sure to add a primer first.
One small grammatical error. Too instead of to. Example “too much” instead of “to much”
Great demonstration and information.
thanks! wah is the airbrush size? 0.2 or 0,3?
Jose, I prefer using a small needle nozzle setup. Normally I stick with .2mm and sometimes .3mm. But I don’t really bigger than that for painting.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks!
Thanks! I thought with Vallejo Air..you didn't need ot thin it out. Only maybe use Flow Improver.
You don’t need to thin Vallejo model air if the conditions are perfect. But normally you need to thin for best results.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Ok great. Thanks for your quick response.
New to airbrushing; have cheap airbrush which seems to work fine; thin Vallejo with water; spraying from a distance and slowly; not happy with the finish but particularly disappointed with the fact that the Vallejo paints don't "harden up" like gloss enamels. As I continue to work on the model, I am left with finger and other marks which cannot be removed.
Most of the paints are flat. At what point would you add gloss varnish? Would the gloss varnish harden up the paint?
John, if you only learn one thing about acrylics…let it be this: never ever thin acrylics with water for airbrushing. Water thins acrylics but also causes the binding agent to have less adhesion. This is why you’re leaving finger prints in the paint. What might help if you have a hair dryer, use that to dry the paint and that might help. Then add in a gloss varnish for weathering. Be careful with any masking as the paint will be weak.
I recommend in the future you prime your model and use my thinning formula in the video and you will get fantastic results!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for the response. The model was primed - again thinned with water. Next attempt shall follow your rules and not be such a cheapskate.
@@johncater7861 no worries, you don't know what you don't know. You didn't mention in your original message you thinned the primer with water as well. Use the thinning formula to thin the primer in the future, it will help the primer (assuming your using Vallejo primer or Badger primer) flow and not tip dry. Now having said that, you can use water to thin your Vallejo paints for brush painting. When painting small parts, thinning the paint with water (slight bit of water) will help flow the paint better and a trick gunpla/figure modelers use to create variations. I use this technique to paint my cockpits.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 many thanks.
Would you use the same thinning formula for Vallejo Acrylic Resin Varnishes?
Patrice, I would not recommend using the formula for the resin varnishes. It will make them dry much slower and make them tacky. To thin the Resin Varnishes, I recommend using Vallejo Thinner only at 50/50 ratio at about 15psi. Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you!
Thanks, a great introduction to thinning paint and resolving all the issues I have had previously. Only wish I had seen it sooner and so economical with the paint, amazing.
Glad you liked the video!
great help - thank you - ive changed my way of thinning my paints - work great.
Hey, I’m glad to hear.
Tried this formula with 50/50 for the metal colors. Tried at 20psi, with .3mm tip, but I still kept getting dry tip. I need to wipe down the needle pretty often to keep the flow going. Do I need to thin it even further?
Hi Red, do not use this formula with Vallejo Metal colors. It will make them very tacky. Best way to airbrush Vallejo Metal color is to use Tamiya x-22 at 50/50 and lower psi at 12-15. If watch my other videos, I do a full build of a P-51 using Vallejo Metal colors.
Oh wow, really lol? learn new things everyday. I'll go and find some X-22 then. Thanks!@@arewethereyetmodeling2196
Your other vids that use the metal colors mention to use just the flow improver for the new formula, which I have. I'll use just the flow improver since I already have that, and see how it goes. @@arewethereyetmodeling2196
@@redbones01flow improver definitely helps! But after testing I found that Tamiya X-20a works best. Do a test with both and see which works for you the best. Good luck!
I have a problem where after I have applied the basecoat of vallejo, I wash with Citadel wash and it has a reaction where it will either dry very shiny and sticky or will even take the paint off the lower layers. Its very frustrating.
Did you apply a gloss coat over the paint prior using the wash?
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 no.
@@danielbear9183 recommend always putting on a gloss or satin coat prior to decals or washes. Even if it’s an acrylic wash, some of the chemicals can eat the paint….even if it’s enamel or lacquer paint.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 i have used citadel washes for years and never had an issue, now I use them after I have painted with the airbrush and it has this reaction. Perhaps its reacting with he thinner/flow improver
@@danielbear9183 run a test and share the results. If you can paint two test pieces. One with the mixture, other without. See if the same thing happens to one or both. Would be helpful for others to learn.