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Valve clearance inspection on a inline 4 motorcycle (example: Kawasaki ZX6R)
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2011
- How to do a valve check on a traditional 4 cylinder engine.
Please follow your bike's service manual as this video is not intended to be a substitution for professional advice.
The TDC on the crossplane crankshaft on the 2009+ Yamaha R1 is different so the cylinder positions mentioned in this video does not apply.
Be prepared to spend at least 4 - 8 hours doing this service or shell out $300 for a shop to do it.
My ZX7 manual says the same thing as yours regarding cylinder #1 and #4 being at TDC. I think the manual IS correct because Cylinders #1 and #4 reach TDC at the same time but on different strokes. So when #1 is at the end of the compression stroke, you can measure its clearance. Rotate the crank 180 degrees and # will be at at the end of the compression stroke.
You do a great job with all your videos man, thank you for posting them up. I have an 07 ZX6R so its extra useful. I've had to use a few of them now as im still in the beginner phase of mechanics. Once again thank you from a happy viewer.
Thanks for posting this! I have been looking for a great vid like this to reassemble and adjust the clearances on a kawi 15f jet ski that came to me as a box of loose parts. I have done only 1 valve cleaning (not a full valve job) before and just put stuff back where it came from. This vid was perfect for understanding how to check, log and correct tolerances.
Sorry for my english, I´m not so good in it.
I love your videos. I did my valve adjustment because of your videos.
My bike dealer didn´t sold me the shims because he couldn´t believe I have removed the shims myself.
So I bought them somewhere else. Up to now I ran my bike 15.000 km. It works perfect. Thank you very much.
Thx man. I'm not a mechanic, I just work on stuff with the best of my abilities and the aid of my service manual. I've been tinkering with bikes for about 5 years.
great vid man!! i am and have been a ktech specialist for 12 years and theres nothing you left out or skipped great job!!
Thanks for the explanation and correction of the service manual! I have ZX9r with the same typo. It was driving me nuts trying to figure out what the hell the manual meant about the TDC of cyl #1, then TDC of cyl #4. 🤦♂️
This is a damn good tutorial. As some others have noted, make sure to rotate the engine in the correct direction. But man this was great!
I am very happy you’ve made this video. It’s 10 years later and it cost anywhere from 1000 to 1500 bucks to get the valves done by somebody now
Do you know if this was a 600 J? Or was this a 636? I have a 99 Kawasaki ninja ZX 6R it is basically the ZZR 600
i have a 2000 zx6r and it is a j model
@@angelojannetta6758
I just checked my local shop and it’s 350$ labor for the valve clearance check in my 05 636.
Then of course a new valve cover, bought that for a round 50$ then whatever little bit the shims “might be”.
1000$ is insane 😅 I think that don’t sound right.
I’m still thinking about doing this check myself because I don’t have 350 right now..
Great video man! Appreciate the time you put into it!
''''great video''''' thank you very much for the time and effort you have put into sharing this video with us..its very much appreciated so thank you..
Is very interesting how you do the work. Is so smart how you explain. Got an idea what my mechanic what will be do in my bike. Which is same like your.thank you sir!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Your manual is fine, you can check all clearances by switching between 1 and 4 TDC on compression, 360 Degrees between them. apart from that I like the video and it has helped me,thank you.
Fantastic job man, the help is much appreciated. Thank you.
Bro you are awesome! Thank you for these informative video brother.
That manual is correct. It says compression stroke specifically so tdc for 1 & 4 puts them at different strokes in the four stroke cycle. Hense the picture showing 4 black dots vs 4 unfilled circles. you'll also notice the lobes are opposite. #1 point in and #4 point out.
Same situation on cylinders 2&3.
Also the book may say the head comes out the top but that's crazy. Lower the rad. and pull it out the front. It takes literally two seconds to remove. Your videos are amazing and are a huge h
I just wanted to add that you should always rotate the engine in the correct direction. Rotating the engine backwards can cause the cam chain tensioner to adjust out futher and causing your timing chain to be to tight. If you rotated the engine the wrong direction I would remove and reset the cam chain tensioner before continueing.
which way is the right way :D? sorry newbie here..
Shanker K clockwise
That is also incorrect sir.... The crankshaft should be turned clockwise, but turning in anti-clockwise does not tighten the cam chain tensioner, (or tighten the cam chain...) The crankshaft can be turned anti clockwise, but only a couple of degrees, nothing more...
Looks like he’s turning it counter clockwise
That should say "huge help. Keep them coming!"
Your videos kick so much ass!! Thank you so much for posting this.
Do you have to drain the oil and take bolt out to look in the side windows to see tdc
Thanks for the video! Very informative!
I just had a question about the size of tool you were using on the ratchet to turn the crankshaft? If you could please help me out
@KAWASAKIINIT Thanks for the comment. Usually cam chains last a very long time. I would only change it if it becomes too loose for the cam chain tensioner to keep tension on it. It can be challenging on some bikes as you have to remove the head. But other bikes, you can replace it by opening the side cover which is easier.
I have a 1983 Kawasaki ltd 1100 and I changed the valve cover gasket. I took the cap tensioner spring and wedge out before taking the bolts to the valve cover off as it says to do in the book. I was very careful not to move the bike put it back together now it will not start and backfires. checked spark and it is ok. another thing is when I took off the air suction valve covers there were deposits on the baffles inside so I scraped it off and cleaned them before installing, then I look at the book and it said do not scrape them flat or they will be no good and new will be needed. Is this true would this change my air intake and make my bike not start
Hi pal, good video mate and I enjoyed watching it and with some interst.
But you did miss a very important step, in that when turning your engine to TDC that you need to turn it in the direction of which the engine normally rotates. Your manual will specify this, or it should.
Maybe put a little add on up on the screen.
Cheer and take care.
Sid :-)
Nice job mate, well explained...Sat night, 6pm...go get a beer you deserve it!
As the valve and valve seats wear, the entire valve gets moved upwards slightly into the cam and bucket creating a tighter space. In extreme cases where a valve adjustment is not done, it can get so tight that the valve doesn't close completely and that ends up burning the valve.
@thebestnodought That is a factory manual from Kawasaki.
The clearances can tighten up at any rate. On other bikes, I've seen out of spec ranging over 0.5mm while other ones stayed in spec.
thanks boss.... nice video because i apply mechanic here in saudi arabia...
Thans for this awesome howto!
Nice vids man! I appreciate you sharing this knowledge with the rest of us.
I'm having an idling/stalling issue with my 03 Kawasaki ZX636 and someone suggested that I do a valve clearance check/adjustment. I was wondering if you could take a look at the video of my bike issue and tell me what your thoughts were on it?!?! I would greatly appreciate it!
Thanks! New subscriber
awesome video!
@WildBill1006 I have a friend who used to buy old junker bikes and restore them to running condition. So I helped him with things like engine overhauls, transmission rebuilds, etc... I'm no mechanic, but it's just the things I've seen it gives me the confidence to do it myself. Plus I do a lot of research before doing any of the work. I do work for beer! LOL, not necessary, but only if you insist.
my zx6r manual that i just used to do my job for my 2000 zx6r also said what his manual says.....confusion now.
Men am i happy of this video.Thanks you very much.Just one thing.If i first lift 1 and 4 piston and than 2 and 3 can i still refer to service manual which valve clearance to mesure
thanks
@suprafox It could be possible that you have zero clearance where the lobes are continuously touching the tappet. In this case you'll have to take the existing shim out put a thinner one in and measure it again. If your feeler gauge fits, then use that as a base-line. Don't try and guess the existing shim because you don't know if your valves are completely closed or not.
Thanks! Great tips.
Articulate enough to make a great video that has helped a ton of people out. Why the hate?
Can you confirm that I need a T-50 torx to rotate the starter clutch bolt, and a 5mm hex to pull the camshaft cap bolts off?
one thing that isnt covered is whether the cam chain tensioner has been adjusted at this point. I would think if you loosen the tensioner it could impact the clearance a tiny bit (especially if its too tight)... maybe the author can tell us whether the cam chain was adjusted/loosened prior to starting?
hi, how to get the reading valve clearance for the cylinder 4? how far do I need to turn?
@DarkFlightVlogs Yea, there are a select "few" others; and when I mean few, I mean one other dude that I will allow to work on my bike. Valve tolerance typically gets tighter as the bike mileage goes up which translates to valves staying open longer. Worse case would be your valves not closing completely thus losing compression leading to overheating. But youll get a noisy valvetrain, rough idle, or hard starts before all that happens.
on my bike the intake valves show bubbles from 1 2 and 3 but 4 it barely shows any is that bad?
Disagree. You are very thorough and easy to follow.
Thanks! that means a lot.
Hey brother great video! 2 questions as I get ready to do this. 1. What size is the bit that you use to turn the crank shaft and it is a star type bit not a regular alan correct? 2. How do you tell the difference between the timing marks in the little window to tell which one means which pistons are at TDC?
I realise this is 2 years old post, but should have been answered by now... it's a TORX bit, size T45H
I have to ask. Over the past couple of videos I am very impressed with your wealth of knowledge, where did you learn all this? I know when it comes time to have some major work done to my VFR I will be giving you a call....Do you work for beer?
You should put shims toghetter so u can exactly measure the valve clearance...
Like, 0.10mm + 0.07mm = 0.17mm and measure again
elp to people. Keep them coming!
Can anyone confirm the statement at 13:30. About the first set of valves is with #1 at tdc and the manual is wrong by #4 being at tdc. I know I have a few out of spec on my zx6r and im also building my engine in my EvoX. The manual for my car says the same thing, Set #1 at tdc for the first 8 valves, then rotate it once and set #4 at tdc. This rotates the cams 90* Pretty sure the manual is correct when it says you set the #4 to tdc, it just means you have to rotate the crank is it rotates the cams 90*
Snakes709 I stopped the video at 13:15 to see if anyone else had spotted the
mistaken explanation.
For what its worth, I can see why hes said that. Rotors often are marked
with 1.4T and 2.4T as this refers to the position of the pistons at TDC
on any stroke. Note: 1 and 4 pistons are at the top of their cylinders together (or at TDC) but on
different strokes!
For the purposes of the valve clearance check, we are talking about the
"TDC of piston #1 OF ITS COMPRESSION STROKE". And then, "TDC of
piston #4 OF ITS COMPRESSION STROKE"
Hey, at least the guy took hours of his life to actually teach us something useful, Mr. Perfect.
Is there a reason why most of the clearances are tight instead of loose? It's too tight also with my bike.
The markings look the same? Are there two difference markings on the crank or is it just one marking and you distinguish when cylinder 1 and 4 or 2 and 3 being at TDC by the position of the cam lobes? I know this is not a new video but for what its worth, your maintenance series are still the best on UA-cam
if you stick a balloon on the end of a compression tester hose then stick the other end in your cylinder spark plug hole turn the crank over and when the balloon fills up its on its compression stroke about to be at top dead center when the balloon stops filling up right before it sucks the air back out thats top dead center. you could also stick a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole when it stops travelling up right before it begins to descend again thats top dead center. each cylinder has two dead centers. top dead center and bottom dead center. but only one tdc at the end of the compression stroke because there are four strokes exhaust tdc is top dead center compression stroke is topd dead center completed power stroke is a bottom dead center and intake is a bottom dead center...understand?
i love u man - ty so much
@MrCanecas The 2003 should be fine. It is the 2009 and up R1's that have the crossplane crankshaft. But please find a service manual before doing any of the services especially a valve adjustment.
OMG!!! you guys!!! the first video without any dislikes!
very nice!
if a cylinder is at top dead center can I measure both the intake and outtake clearances?
if its at the end of its compression stroke then yes
do you know how to determine if your cylinder is at top dead center? befopre it gets to the ened of the compression stroke you should have air coming out of the spark plug hole
@@josephferris6936 oh ya. I've come a long ways since then. Fixed a transmission on a bike, pulled a few wngines, etc. I appreciate the response though. I'm proud of the progress I've made. By no means am I a mechanic, but it's been years since I've had my bike to the shop.
I'm sorry, but you are giving incorrect advice here... you only set the valve clearances when piston #1 or piston #4 are at TDC... You do not measure the clearances when pistons #2 & #3 are at TDC...
Set the #1 piston at TDC (Top Dead Centre) 'on the compression stroke'. You will see this by the cam lobes on #1 piston facing outwards. At this point, measure #1 cylinder intake & exhaust, #2 exhaust, & #3 intake clearances....When completed,
Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees, so that #4 piston is at TDC, with both exhaust and intake cam lobes facing outwards.
Measure intake and exhaust clearance on #4 cylinder, #3 exhaust, & #2 intake....
The book is in fact correct, and you are wrong sir... Thank you !!
does this apply to every standard inline 4 dohc 16v motorcycle motor? ive been trying to do zxr400l valves and the online guides are pretty useless
@@Angelripperize no, not all… Yamaha usually set each cylinder valve clearance when each piston is at TDC on the compression stroke… in other words, you have to move the crankshaft 4 times. If you don’t set the Suzuki valve clearances as per the book, it won’t run properly…
I know. That's one of my weaknesses in life I guess.
u dont really have to take apart that much stuff, if u have changed your own plugs it isnt much more u have to take apart u just have to pull off the throttle bodies which isnt bad they are held on by rubber gaskets, good tutorial tho man i am thinking of doing this on mine soon it is at 16k miles probably in need of valve adjustment. I know when i just changed my plugs i went ahead and cleaned the throttle body bores and around the butterfly valves and when fully open i noticed the far left intake valve was open slightly and the rest were closed not sure if thats normal
***** He didn't even remove the throttle bodies.
I looked to check my valves and just passed the throttle bodies the valves are closed how can I open them?
You are kidding right ? There is so much more stuff you have to remove just to measure, let alone remove the cams to change the shims... The throttle bodies have to be removed, its not that difficult, you might be able to measure intake clearances with them on, but there is no way in hell you will be able to measure exhaust valves without undoing the radiator, and removing that plastic cowling just in front of the cylinder head cover... there are loads of plugs that also have to be undone as well... Today (25/04/18) I have measured all the valve clearances on an 2010 model... 37,000kms on the clock, and had to change 10 shims altogether... although this bike supposedly has had major services before, (supposedly), the exhaust valve clearances were all way too tight, bar one...
Left to right: 0.15, 0.18, 0.24, 0.20, 0.20, 0.27, 0.19, 0.19... only the 0.27 was OK... There were 3 on the intake that I changed, although they were within spec, I made them closer to the one next to it...
I've been doing this for a long time, I worked for Kawasaki for several years, now work for myself, but believe me when I tell you this, it's a lot bigger job than anyone realises... and if you have to change shims like I had to today, that's a whole different ball game...
Not to be negative about the whole thing, I'm all for guys having a go themselves... but first thing, buy the OEM service manual, and read it several times so that you understand everything... the service manual is correct, but this video says the book is wrong... it's not wrong... trust me when I tell you this...
Anyway, if you get it wrong, including the valve timing, it's going to cost you a lot of money !! That's all I can say... Good luck !! :)
Anyone could help me, Where can I buy the 7.48mm shims? I am from Peru, here we can´t have this shims...
+Omar Obada make some
+Matthew Gooch thanks, I made an order
Great video but man I'm scared to do this to my bike myself.
I have a 93 kawasaki zx6r with 23k miles on it and under load it seems not too have any power, I can idle it as high as I want sitting at nutural, or clutch pulled in. I have changed my plugs, however havent done the wires, no vac lines are broke, I did replace all the fuel lines in and out, it is carbed as well. It also leaked gas out of the bottom of the motor, a full tank which is like 3.5 gallons over night on the floor. I did rebuild the petcock cause it was leaking and it still threw the gas out. I cleaned the carbs last year noticed two of the jets were like GREEN or algae covered even cleaning them with carb cleaner and letting them soak they still were all corroded better clearance through the jet holes but still icky looking. I am wondering would a float be sticking causing this issue you think? no power under load but idling fine. Just curious. I traded it off for a car but buying the bike back in january and the guy hasnt dont anything to it other than put it in the garage. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks jeremiah
sounds like it may be a fuel flow issue. has the bike sat for a long period of time? try cleaning your carbs. to confirm a fuel flow issue you may try riding it full choked and seeing it your issues get any better. if they do than you have confirmed fuel flow. if they dont than look into new coils and wires. ebay usually has the best prices for these things.
beenselock the bike has never sat very long with out being ran. Even in the winter if we had snow on the ground last year I would at least start it once or twice a week depending on how cold it was, I would also ride it as long as there was no snow on the ground. If snow or cold just at least fire it up at the very least once a week. When I took it to hastings which is like 45 minutes east of me it ran doggish then went down to 2 cyc on me the night before and after rebuilding the petcock the day before I ran too hastings it leaked all the fuel out on the ground. it runs great with the choke wide open until I shut it off and kick it in to 1st then it just wants too shit down. I am also thinking the carbs need clean but like I said never sat and not ran for a period of time always ran it even if it was just at idle in the winter.
just idleing sometimes isnt enough to keep things clean. i would try cleaning those carbs. do you have an inline filter? maybe try making sure that is clear of any blockage
carby float heights need adjusting
. (idle[which is ok on ur bike] is on a different circuit to power in CV carbs]
Jeremiah Fisher Did you get it sorted?What was the outcome?
I see that you are turning the engine counterclockwise. Would it be the same for all motorcycles? The bolt that cranks my engine is on the left hand side of the bike (when sitting on it). I think I would have to turn it clockwise? :P
realize this that the engine spins in a direction when operating that is the same direction you want to turn it in.the crankshaft and camshaft sometimes is on a different side of the bike. determine what side. rotor magneto and stator on one end of the crank and i think you wanto to turn the crankshaft so that you feed the tensioner side of it at the bottom so you want the chain to feed the tensioner side at the bottom go around the cams and tuen them then end up on the fron of thre motor going down
Gr8 video. Mark camchain & cam gear for realignment if removing cam/cams on TDC No 1 cyl. Keep cam chains tight on reassembly. Remove /adjust cct if removing cam shaft. Very similar to Hondas XX. Thanks for sharing.
Very easy to be 1 or 2 teeth out on camchain. Triple check for correct timing. Mark before dissasembly makes things easier.Lol.
wedginator so that means all 16 valves and seats have to be replaced i found out what was wrong with it the valve guide showed signs of old brake when i got the bike in on trade thanks for the tips and i can not get the timing for the camshafts to save my life lmfao thanks.
I have a 1983 CB750SC and I am trying to measure my valve clearances. The manual I have isn't very clear about the procedure and mentions following a mark on my cam shaft. Unfortunately there are two machined marks and one painted mark so I do not trust using that method. I read that you can take the measurements when the cylinder is at TDC. Does this mean I can measure both my intake and exhaust clearances when I am at TDC for a given cylinder?
honestly if you know how to find tdc of any cylinder at the end of the compression stroke you can measure its intake and exhaust valves for that particular cylinder
@@josephferris6936 Thanks for the reply! I'm sure I figured it 11 years ago. Still have the bike and going strong!
nice i have a 1982
kz750@@TheBetaMale
He's not very articulate? What the hell are you talking about? You can easily understand what he's saying, he has clear and precise explanations and directions and he doesn't say "umm", "uhh", and "like" every 5 seconds. So in my book his articulation is just fine. Maybe English isn't is primary language but nonetheless his video is fantastic. The only thing I can think of is that you're using the wrong word to describe whatever your issue with the video is.
Not sure what you mean by bubbles, but by the sounds of it, it might not be good. Have it checked out by an experienced mechanic before you continue.
Approx 30,000 miles.
My valves are tighter than a penguin's buttcheeks.
kilometers. must b backeast
Replace your valve cover gasket every single time you have your valve cover off. It will leak.
sparkplug stick lol
Gosh This is So Confusing to me idk why.
Click ANYWHERE in the video and within 3 seconds you will hear "uh" or "umm".
I'm 4min into the video and i. Mindfucked already i rather just pay 300
Then go make your own service video and be "articulate" as you'd like.
Stop saying "UH" and "UMM". The video is littered with these phrases... very annoying to the viewer and simply a bad habit with regard to public speaking.