This is a great walkthrough of the lift and its operation. Someday I want to get one but had no idea of the installation and how the in ground ones worked. Thanks!
I like the mini stool and the cut down hoist stands, you have your own system going on there, well thought out. I'd be tempted to cut a rubber mat to sit on each platform, just larger than the platform so it closed the gap when the lift was down. Then you wouldn't even have to move the mats out of the way.
Yup, had to make some mods to make things work in my space. They need a fairly large area to keep water from creeping underneath, especially in the winter, so I don't know if custom fit ones would work, though it's a really neat idea. Sometimes I slide the mats under what I'm working on to keep the floor from getting oils and such all over them too, so not the end of the world. Nice idea none the less, might work for others in different climate :) thanks!
I Have to Comment and say you do good work, you really did a lot of R and D and you laid that shop out so well for max use / servicing cars and parking two cars in that small space very professional done ...
I've got a Twin Busch mid raise scissor lift in my shop and would have loved to have it fit flush like you made yours but it has 2 bars running across and wouldn't be as convenient has yours. And I agree with you with the extra protection with the OTC stands, I will be looking into getting a couple has well. Great video
Yeah, you need to get one of the hydraulic synchronized ones to make in floor installation practical. The OTC stands do need cutting down to fit under but they're easy since it's a non-welded collar you can pop off at the top...the other set I have (ATD brand I think? I bought them used) I had to cut and re-weld, but they have been super handy...both for stabilizing and for holding up parts (like exhausts, drive shafts, control arms, etc.) when working on things. Glad you enjoyed the video! :)
Nicely done! How do deal with water or snow accumulation? I do live where we have snow/salt/calcium. I would be scared about them accumulating around mechanism.
Those rubber mats go over top when not in use and keep the junk out...they do a pretty good job. Otherwise the thing is sprayed down in fluid film (I've got another vid on that stuff) and I vacuum them out every once and a while.
Awesome looking setup. For me personally i would like to see better hardstops + a locking pin but i do think they are a great idea to stop yourself slowly breaking yourself lol
Great video! I am in the middle of building a new garage, and I am planning to build something like this into the floor. How much space do you have from the garage door to the lift, and how much space do you have in front of it?
I'll try to grab those measurements for you, but it's basically centered within the 20 feet of depth. No issues lifting cars and small SUVs with the door closed, but you might want to measure out your vehicles to see where to place it.
Well done. What and where - mats do you have? I’m using some armor all roll up absorbent mats with a rubber coating on the bottom that don’t allow water to get through.
So far so good...exhaust, driveshafts, transmissions, rear diffs, all the suspension components, etc. have never been an issue. I could see it blocking dropping a fuel tank on some vehicles or if you wanted to do side skirts or body work. You can use extra rubber contact blocks to gain a few more inches of clearance though. Also isn't as good for body on frame vehicles where you sometimes have to reach up and under for a lift point versus just pinch weld area for unibody.
Yeah, I considered the quick jacks and also maxjax. I didn't do maxjax because of the cuts in the floor meaning concrete work anyway. I didn't do the quick jacks because they don't lift very high, I'd have to use a creeper lying on my back for anything underneath. That said, the quick jack is an awesome product and the logical step up from jack/jack stands.
I don't think all of them do, I feel like there were a couple that had manually actuated ones...can't remember though as it's been years. Could check out the quickjack as a simpler alternatve. That said, a $200 compressor will run these locks no problem, when the lift install is many thousands, it's a drop in the bucket to add air.
@@adamm2716 you'll probably want air in the barn anyway :) so handy to have! Flush mount is awesome though, always out of the way...get rubber mats day 1 to keep crap out of the pits, and I also put some strips of sill gasket (like you'd use under a wood framed wall on concrete) under my lift to keep the metal out of direct contact with the slab.
I just bought a second hand scissor. It has electric solenoids. You could easily modify the air one. You could use a after market car door unlocking solenoid set and have a small battery to power it.
I haven't tried, the limit is 6000lbs, so would be close on some trucks. The other thing would be the ability to hit the frame pickup points, which might be difficult as this is more positioned for unibody vehicles lifting at the pinch welds and is shorter to fit within that wheelbase.
This style of lift isn't great for body on frame vehicles to begin with, it's more suited to unibody vehicles...nor is my garage really long enough for a big long truck. It's positioned centered in the space so I can open the doors on the vehicles, handy for working under the dash or doing detailing.
Great demonstration of the use case of scissor lift, and what goes into installing it. Thank you. I'm considering this exact setup.
Glad it could help!
Although I'm not happy with Bendpak themselves, I absolutely love this style of lift and would do it again.
This is a great walkthrough of the lift and its operation. Someday I want to get one but had no idea of the installation and how the in ground ones worked. Thanks!
It's a bit of work but well worth it, your garage would definitely benefit from one :)
That is slick how you retro fitted that into you existing floor. Nice work
Thanks...was a fair bit of work, but is slick like you said.
I like the mini stool and the cut down hoist stands, you have your own system going on there, well thought out. I'd be tempted to cut a rubber mat to sit on each platform, just larger than the platform so it closed the gap when the lift was down. Then you wouldn't even have to move the mats out of the way.
Yup, had to make some mods to make things work in my space.
They need a fairly large area to keep water from creeping underneath, especially in the winter, so I don't know if custom fit ones would work, though it's a really neat idea. Sometimes I slide the mats under what I'm working on to keep the floor from getting oils and such all over them too, so not the end of the world. Nice idea none the less, might work for others in different climate :) thanks!
I Have to Comment and say you do good work, you really did a lot of R and D and you laid that shop out so well for max use / servicing cars and parking two cars in that small space very professional done ...
Appreciate it! If you haven't seen the garage tour video I did, check it out too, has more details about the rest of the setup other than the lift :)
Very interesting, if you had enough ceiling height, would you have picked a 4 posts lift instead?
Probably 2 post, I need tires off when using the lift more often than not, and bridge jacks suck.
I'd want something that went higher like some of the scissor lifts, specially considering all the cost and work to install.
You and me both, I unfortunately didn't have the ceiling height for anything higher.
@@SomeGuysGarage I understand now.
@@SomeGuysGarage You can pit between two lifts.
Atlas Auto Equipment makes many options
I've got a Twin Busch mid raise scissor lift in my shop and would have loved to have it fit flush like you made yours but it has 2 bars running across and wouldn't be as convenient has yours.
And I agree with you with the extra protection with the OTC stands, I will be looking into getting a couple has well.
Great video
Yeah, you need to get one of the hydraulic synchronized ones to make in floor installation practical.
The OTC stands do need cutting down to fit under but they're easy since it's a non-welded collar you can pop off at the top...the other set I have (ATD brand I think? I bought them used) I had to cut and re-weld, but they have been super handy...both for stabilizing and for holding up parts (like exhausts, drive shafts, control arms, etc.) when working on things.
Glad you enjoyed the video! :)
Genius! Gonna recommend this to my car enthusiast clients who don't have space!
Right on! It's a pretty awesome option for small spaces but still able to do real work with it.
Wow, This Is A Awesome Idea For Space Saving.
yeah, it's pretty cool in that way!
Great film, all the right info, many thanks.
Welcome, glad you enjoyed!
This looks really nice. What it the thickness of the concrete under the lifts?
Aimed for 6 inches but probably is a bit thicker than that.
Nicely done! How do deal with water or snow accumulation? I do live where we have snow/salt/calcium. I would be scared about them accumulating around mechanism.
Those rubber mats go over top when not in use and keep the junk out...they do a pretty good job. Otherwise the thing is sprayed down in fluid film (I've got another vid on that stuff) and I vacuum them out every once and a while.
Awesome looking setup. For me personally i would like to see better hardstops + a locking pin but i do think they are a great idea to stop yourself slowly breaking yourself lol
Yeah, the locks aren't exactly the best design I've ever seen...they work, but they could have interlocked better.
Great video! I am in the middle of building a new garage, and I am planning to build something like this into the floor. How much space do you have from the garage door to the lift, and how much space do you have in front of it?
I'll try to grab those measurements for you, but it's basically centered within the 20 feet of depth. No issues lifting cars and small SUVs with the door closed, but you might want to measure out your vehicles to see where to place it.
Well done. What and where - mats do you have? I’m using some armor all roll up absorbent mats with a rubber coating on the bottom that don’t allow water to get through.
These are just standard full rubber mats that you buy by the foot from the hardware store (I got them at princess auto).
Are there any repairs you wanted to do to your car but were unable to because the lift prevented access? Thanks.
So far so good...exhaust, driveshafts, transmissions, rear diffs, all the suspension components, etc. have never been an issue.
I could see it blocking dropping a fuel tank on some vehicles or if you wanted to do side skirts or body work. You can use extra rubber contact blocks to gain a few more inches of clearance though. Also isn't as good for body on frame vehicles where you sometimes have to reach up and under for a lift point versus just pinch weld area for unibody.
Did you consider quick jacks? Im debating between the two. But i will not be putting the scissor lift in the ground
Yeah, I considered the quick jacks and also maxjax. I didn't do maxjax because of the cuts in the floor meaning concrete work anyway. I didn't do the quick jacks because they don't lift very high, I'd have to use a creeper lying on my back for anything underneath. That said, the quick jack is an awesome product and the logical step up from jack/jack stands.
@@SomeGuysGarage thanks.
@@jvh22awelcome!
Great Idea
@@ride4kix it's pretty awesome!
now put a 3' deep pit in between the car lifts
lol what for?
Sick brother! Sick!
Appreciate it!
do all these scissor lifts require air? i use battery tools i don't wanna buy a air compressor just for a lift
I don't think all of them do, I feel like there were a couple that had manually actuated ones...can't remember though as it's been years. Could check out the quickjack as a simpler alternatve.
That said, a $200 compressor will run these locks no problem, when the lift install is many thousands, it's a drop in the bucket to add air.
@@SomeGuysGarage good point, sir thanks for the reply. working on building a barn and i think i'm going to flush mount a lift too
@@adamm2716 you'll probably want air in the barn anyway :) so handy to have!
Flush mount is awesome though, always out of the way...get rubber mats day 1 to keep crap out of the pits, and I also put some strips of sill gasket (like you'd use under a wood framed wall on concrete) under my lift to keep the metal out of direct contact with the slab.
I just bought a second hand scissor. It has electric solenoids. You could easily modify the air one. You could use a after market car door unlocking solenoid set and have a small battery to power it.
What is your ceiling height?
I mention it in the video, but 9 feet to the beam, 10ish feet to the highest parts.
Nice.
Thanks!
can that lift you have be able to lift up a full-size pickup
half tons 3/4 tons probably not 1 ton truck
I haven't tried, the limit is 6000lbs, so would be close on some trucks. The other thing would be the ability to hit the frame pickup points, which might be difficult as this is more positioned for unibody vehicles lifting at the pinch welds and is shorter to fit within that wheelbase.
@@SomeGuysGarage guapo is just over the limit... darn
Sweet but a big long truck wouldn't be ideal for where it's placed
This style of lift isn't great for body on frame vehicles to begin with, it's more suited to unibody vehicles...nor is my garage really long enough for a big long truck. It's positioned centered in the space so I can open the doors on the vehicles, handy for working under the dash or doing detailing.