NEVER REPLACE ANOTHER CAPACITOR! | New CERAMIC Capacitors for the SEGA Game Gear! | Retro Renew
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2024
- In today’s Special Halloween episode of Retro Renew, Tito will be using a special capacitor kit so that you’ll never have to replace another capacitor again! This kit uses ceramic capacitors instead of the traditional and more common electrolytic capacitors. Ceramic based capacitores will never leak and last much longer than electrolytic! During this process he will attempt to bring a SEGA Game Gear back from the dead. Will this special capacitor kit be enough to revive this tired and old Game Gear? Sit back, relax, and let’s find out!
So here's what you will find in this video:
► 0:00 Intro
► 1:09 Upgrade Process And Parts/Kit Overview
► 2:10 Replacing the Game Gear Capacitors
► 3:48 Review and Thoughts of the Kit
► 9:03 Conclusion
Have a Happy and Safe HALLOWEEN everyone!
Ceramic Capacitor Kit for the Sega Game Gear:
retrosix.co.uk/Game-Gear-Capa...
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Full disclosure, I get a small percentage of each sale that uses an affiliate link or coupon code. It’s a great way to help SUPPORT my channel at no cost to you so I can continue to make these videos for all of you, everyone wins! And as always, thank you for your continued support of my channel!
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Intro Music by Matthew McCheskey:
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#Halloween #GameGear #Sega
DISCLAIMER: This video is only for entertainment purposes. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or from the information in this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and is to be used at the discretion of the end user/viewer and not Macho Nacho Productions or Tito Perez. If you are uncertain about any step of the process or feel unsure about your skill level, seek a more authoritative source. - Ігри
Half the screen is out.
"fantastic."
Me: oh no, black bars
Tito: sweet! The perfect candidate for a screen upgrade!
Haha good job giving it new life!
Haha! Thank you buddy!
The editing is so good it “kills” me.
Gave me chills
Haha, thank you Madblaster6!
Haha! Thanks David!!
Dude the editing is absolutely insane.
Thank you buddy! Happy you enjoyed it! Cheers!!
great video , about to attempt this myself. thanks for making a thorough walkthrough
Your production is top notch. Congrats, man.
Thank you SenorDisco! Really appreciate it! Cheers!
I love the spooky intro,its so cool!
I was just looking at the RetroSix capacitor kit earlier today, I couldn't find anyone talking about it or installing it so I'm so happy this came up in my Subs. I'll definitely be completing my purchase and fixing up my GG with these!
Awesome! Glad this video is helpful and thank you for subbing! I really appreciate it! Cheers buddy!
Future mods including LCD replacement! Perfectly timed video, cheers Tito.
Yeah buddy!! Stay tuned!!
He's alive.... ALIVE !
Hype for this future Game Gear screen modding , + what a edit, a really enjoy it !
Thank you Ace Bunny! Glad you enjoyed the video! Awesome Game Gear mods to come! Cheers!
im glad you didnt let that intro go to waste!
Totally! Had to use it again! Cheers JuicyJake!
This is perfect, been waiting to fix mine up. Can’t wait for the LCD Mod upgrade! Thanks!
Thank you John-Manuel! Me too! I’m excited to upgrade the screen! It looks complicated but hopefully I can do it! Cheers!
Awesome intro! You are a true master!
Thank you meganpapa1! Really appreciate it! Cheers!!
Intro is absolutely mint. Top job
Thank you Ron! So glad you liked it!!! Cheers buddy!
Keep up the great videos Tito, I have a feeling your channel will be huge down the line. It's too good not to be!
Thank you Carn! I really appreciate the kind words brother! Cheers buddy!
Tito, I missed this episode, but this is proof that you work your ass off. Stay awesome like that.
Thank you! Will do!
Can't wait to see you installing a McWill screen on that!
By the way you have done a great job with video's intro!
Amazing!
Thank you Tsigarinho! McWill mod will be coming soon!! Glad you are enjoying the videos!!
Great work on this, I love this channel!
Than you 😁
Fantastic Intro! Very Well Done!
Thank you! So glad you enjoyed it! Cheers!
Can’t wait for these capacitor kits to be available for every console, I’d love to never have to worry about those leaky caps again!
Me too!!
@@MachoNachoProductions haha, as it turns out I just finished fixing my GameCube and it wasn’t reading discs too well and, sure enough, a capacitor issue. I think I’m gonna try to find the right ceramic caps for it because it uses those smd style ones like the ones in this video. Thanks for inspiring me lol, I’ll definitely have piece of mind after that’s done
For sound circuits you are better with electrolytic or better yet solid state tantalums which will not leak either and there are also polymer caps that look like electrolytic caps and don't leak either. Ceramics are good for many things but not leaking does not mean they will not fail eventually but they tend to last longer.
You’re welcome dude! Glad this video helped! Also glad you were able to track down the issue with your GameCube! Best of luck in the repair! Cheers!
Thank you for the insight Helder! I wonder if there is a way to figure out which cap types would be best for each application. It seems that it isn’t a 1 for 1 just getting the same values. Cheers buddy and thanks again for the insight!!
Love the Halloween theme intro, etc.
Happy you liked it 😁
Love the Halloween theme Tito. Thanks for this quality tutorial for the game gear next one i need to give a try. Happy Holloween!
Hey Scruffy! You’re most welcome buddy! Definitely give it a try! Happy Halloween to you too!!
This video comes with good timing especially with the preorders going up for new Game Gear shells!
Totally! The shells look amazing. RetroSix is doing great things!
Thanks for this video; I was able to repair a long lost family member's Game Gear using this kit and your walk-through. The black plastic enclosures around the caps also came right off without any trouble - none of them were stuck to the board (relief!).
You’re most welcome! I’m glad you were able to bring your GG back to life! It’s good to hear that those black enclosures were easy to remove. They can sometime be a nightmare. Cheers buddy!
Clearly u must have experience with soddering because this tutorial was trash people always skip steps or leave out important details 🙄
Incredible production quality. That intro was so John Carpenter. I love it. Keep up the phenomenal work!
Thank you Alexander!! That means so much to me bro! That was totally the look I was going for! It is a real honor to be compared to Carpenter’s work! Thanks again!
@@MachoNachoProductions Carpenter is one of my favorite directors and artists. Love your channel. Happy Halloween!
Same!
Thank you bro! Happy Halloween to you too!
You have so much patience my friend, I don't know how you do it!
Haha thanks Makoy! These mods do require some patients for sure, haha! Cheers!!
Another great vid Tito! Man you should have way more subscribers. Quality stuff!
Thank you Gregg! Much appreciate bro! So happy you are enjoying the channel! Cheers!
Beautiful intro, mate!
Thank you chipsteroni! So happy you like it!! Cheers!
Great video! Love the Halloween theme. Can’t wait to see the McWill install on this unit as I’m attempting one soon myself
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the Halloween theme! Can’t wait to mod the LCD!! Cheers Avenge08!
That opening was dope 👌
Thank you!
You're killing it! I recently found your page, now I'm knee deep into building a couple Boxy Pixel GBMacros.
Awesome dude! So glad you found the channel and are enjoying it! I Love Macros! One of my favorite ways to play GBA games! Cheers!
Great video bud. I have had my kit for a while now but was waiting for your video tutorial 👍👍 I used to have the TV tuner when I was a kid. Keep searching my parents house for it haha. I miss the crazy accessories you used to be able to buy for handhelds like Gameboy and Game Gear. That could be its own video.
Totally agree! I love all the whacky accessories for these consoles during the 1990s! So cool! I hope this video will help your project! Cheers Gabriel!
the adhesive they used to keep those caps down is god tier haha
Haha! Indeed it is!
It's something I will never fully understand. What kind of adhesive did they use to glue those damn capacitors down.
Just redid my caps about 2 weeks ago; yeah, the glue was bad, but thankfully the plastic shells were strong enough for the pliers to break it from the PCB. I think only 1 crumbled into a hot mess.
DUDE! Amazing intro!
Thank you Alejandro! So glad you liked it! Cheers!
Your videos have amazing production quality. I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers, but I'm sure if you keep it up that'll change in the near future.
Thank you R C! Really appreciate the kind words! So glad you are enjoying the channel! Plenty of great videos to come! Cheers buddy!
Tito, the mods you do are amazing, however I must admit that sometimes I just watch your videos because the quality of production you put in every video is in another level. Hope your channel keeps growing.
Thank you Javier! That means a lot to me buddy! I really appreciate it! Cheers my friend!
Good work, to remove old capacitors first brake the glue with pliers then raise capacitor and then use soldering iron on the legs it comes out easy, power board capacitors rarely go bad, they are great quality, to fix your screen is easy, apply flux and warm the ribbon connector to the screen and gently press with pliers to solder contacts in place. Cheers mate
Genius!!!!! Top intro.
Thank you Juan! Cheers buddy!
I'm expecting a Christmas themed intro now 😏
Great video!! I have repaired some Game Gears and i have seen the "melted" plastic thing i normally use a small metal spudger and it comes off without big problems, try that next time.
Thank you! Appreciate the recommendation! My only concern would be scratching the pcb and perhaps potentially damaging a trace in the process. I’m sure if one is careful it could very well be accomplished! Thanks again buddy! Cheers!
A year late to the party, but I dig this idea. I think ceramics would be beautifully suited to many vintage consoles for adding longevity. As was already mentioned though, I agree that tantalum or polymer caps would would be better suited for sound circuits in these systems.
New to soldering replacement.
Why are tantalum or polymer capacitors better suited for these situations?
I replaced mine with all ceramics.
Bro love the intro ❤
Thank you!
Nice vidéo as always.
Thank you! So glad you enjoyed it!!!
This resurrection was a howling good time!!!!!!
Haha! So glad you enjoyed video! Cheers Matt!
Excelente trabajo amigo!!! Un trabajo artesanal!
Felicitaciones!
¡muchas gracias! ¡salud Amigo!
2 things... 1) I tried reviving a Game Gear with these ceramic capacitors but couldn't get it to work. Could be that they are so small and the 100 uF caps look identical to the 10 uF caps, so I may have mixed some up. At any rate, I swapped out the ceramic ones for new electrolytic ones and the Game Gear fired right up. 2) I've never seen that issue with the sound board caps fusing to the board. Sometimes they are a pain to get off (and I have ripped a couple pads off before), but I've never seen the black plastic stuck to the board like that. Kinda odd.
These intros and editing is off the charts.
Thank you bro! That really means a lot to me! Cheers Han!!
@@MachoNachoProductions I cant stop watching the 80's sci-fi mod movie. Don't stop producing. We love it.
Thank you Han! So happy you enjoyed that one. I put a lot of time into it. I’m sure I’ll be producing stuff like that some more in the future! Cheers!
Nice video, I was wondering if there is any reason to be concerned about the longevity of the game gear after replacing the capacitors with ones that are way out of spec from original? Is there any reason to be concerned about replacing 22uf, 33uf, 47uf capacitors with 100uf capacitors?
Wondering the same thing. I absolutely get the appeal of simlifying the process -- Lord knows I was sweating bullets recapping my first GG -- but making sure the values are acceptable for the task is important as well. The boards vary wildly between revisions.
cant wait for the christmas season intro
Haha, now I have to make an intro for all holiday seasons! Cheers Kevin!!
how do i know which capacitors go where? is there a diagram of some kind somewhere?
Fantastic intro and it's my birthday today
Happy birthday Zach! Glad you liked the intro dude! Cheers!
I did a partial recap on a 3DO and one of the caps was glued down and was fused to the board. Due to the tight fit, I ended up getting one leg unsoldered and bent and fatigued the cap until that part broke off. It wasn’t easy, and took about 20 minutes, but it came off eventually.
Thank you for sharing So Zen! I’m planning on modding a 3DO soon! Cheers buddy!
@@MachoNachoProductions can’t wait to see it! The 3do is one of my favorite unsung heroes of the gaming market that gets far too little love in the community, can’t wait to see what you have in store!
If only i knew this sooner. Recapped 2 GG’s last year, some caps are so big there’s pushing between plastic and motherboard, dang. I was checking Ceramic Capacitors at the time, but didn’t know it was possible. Great update! On a sidenote, too bad Osaku’s mod is not available anymore, would have loved to add controllers. I want to consilize. I heard a new consolizing kit someone’s working on. I am also curious what is the best video out, mcwill’s, or that mod from australia (cant remember the name). Great update! A revolution! 😀
Sorry to hear that. I just found out about this kit recently also and wish more like this would come out for other consoles. I’m not actually sure which kit provides the best video out and I’m also very interested in a consolized GG! That would be sweet! Thank you for the comment Jan! Cheers!!
Hi Tito, great video man. Does the cap kit that you used work for all versions of the Game Gear?
I wanna know if that tv tuner will work with the screen replacement mod ... I can never get a clear answer. I know that the tuner wont pick up any channels because of the digital conversion but I do know that you can plug in a digital antenna tuner that converts the signal so that it can be displayed on the game gear tv tuner ... but the GG that I saw didn't have the screen mod.
Best video game videos on UA-cam!!!
Thank you Cosmo Kramer! Really appreciate it bud! Also, great user name! Love Seinfeld!
Someone knows the voltages of the different ceramic capacitors from RetroSix kit?
Editing and video quality is great! I wish you had fixed the broken screen, but oh well.
Thank you buddy! Much appreciated!
I will definitely address the broken screen in a future video so stay tuned dude! Cheers!
For the power board, I installed a electrolytic for the 820uf but, for the 100uf and the 22uf, I replaced them with ceramic capacitors. I don't know if better or worse but the game gear is working.
Crazy how the Game Gear has an actual fluorescent light bulb in there
Totally agree! It’s really cool and interesting seeing old tech!
Gameboy's are so much easier to mod. There are so many components that can fail on the Game Gear. Excellent tutorial! Soldering the small capacitors is very time consuming but well worth it. I think your Game Gear was sitting in a hot attic for years. I didn't have any issue removing the plastic pieces when swapping out the capacitors. I was lucky and could just break the excess pieces of plastic away from the motherboard. It's nice to see someone else using 'Aerospace 303' - great stuff.
Agree, gameboys are a much simpler design. It was the first time I ran into issues removing caps. Glad your were easier to remove. I love aerospace 303, works great! Cheers Cobra!!
@@MachoNachoProductions Nintendo used quality components as well. I am working on a Watara Super Vision next. It has terrible build quality. Have a great Friday and weekend!
Very true!
Nice dude, the supervision is a very interesting piece of hardware for sure!
Hope you have a fantastic weekend as well!!
I'm assuming the screen was already bad but it could be the caps if it wasn't.
Things like ESR and a few other aspects have to be accounted for when replacing cap types. The capacitance values may be the same but they can have wildly varying resistance values, etc.
I’m hoping RetroSix looked into those metrics before releasing the kit. I don’t know of they did but the ceramic cap values are different from the electrolytic ones in the GG. I wish I had a deep understanding of electronics to know the difference of each cap type. Cheers Danny!
@@MachoNachoProductions
I'm sure it'll be sorted out and it should return to normal if that's the issue with the screen and they do issue the proper caps.
Hello, newbie to soldering. I am taking on this project soon. What is the best soldering wire for this project? Size and thickness matter? Any tips?
Going to check this out, I just got a game gear myself
Nice dude! It’s a great repair/upgrade in my opinion! Cheers buddy!
Does the amazon cap assortment kits usually have all the values you would need to recap a sega game gear? Also how can you tell if they are good quality or not?
Good job! However ipa wont do anything to plastic but you may like to try acetone "with caution". It will definitely help with the plastic but i dont know what it will do to other circuit elements.
It can eat the trace protection
Yes please my Sega Nomad needs this ceramic capacitor kit would be nice!
I really hope RetroSix comes out with some new ceramic capacitor kits for other consoles. That would be great!
What kind of flux do i need? I am new to soldering.
Great video as always. By chance do they make ceramic caps for gameboys?
Thank you! At the moment I don’t think there are any kits for game boys. I’m hoping that we get more kits like this in the future to help preserve our consoles. If they do make a kit, I’d love to make a video about it. Cheers buddy!
@@MachoNachoProductions Thank you for the reply and I’ll be sure to keep an eye out for a video if they do make some kits. Keep up the good work.
You’re welcome dude! Cheers!
Those Ceramic Capacitors are great for all other vintage to modern game consoles, even the PlayStation 1, 2, 3, and 4, including the PS4 Pro. The Original Xbox and Xbox 360 needs them also including full functional original working games on a 2TB or higher SSD.
I don't know enough about caps and their effect on devices, but I've heard ceramic can cause audio issues on the game gear, anyone here know?
Bonjour j'ai un soucis sur la carte mère au niveau des boutons 1 et 2 a cause de l'humidité après nettoyage j'ai remarqué que les pistes sont abîmées , pouvez-vous m'aider ?
Tried this but one of the fused plastic cap made me accidentally lift off the contact pads on the motherboard, so project failed :(
You didn't fail at all. If one pad is still there then solder one end of the ceramic cap to it and then run a small wire from the other end of the ceramic cap to wherever the destroyed trace was going. If you can't easily tell where the broken traces went then make a post on the game gear sub-reddit with the capacitor number (CXX) and a picture and someone will be able to help you.
If you removed both traces you could connect wires to both ends of the ceramic cap, tape the cap to the correct location with kapton tape and run the wires to the correct contact points.
For the rest of the old caps, my method is to grab both sides towards the top with tweezers, not pliers, and pull slightly up and back towards the traces. If you have small enough wire cutters you can also snip the legs off the old caps, tear the old cap straight up and off, and remove each leg with new solder/flux.
I'm confused... why aren't you directing for like every movie everywhere. Your videos are movies, not guides. It's crazy how talented you are at video editing, man.
Thank you so much Erik! Means a lot buddy! I have as much fun making the videos as I do modding! Cheers buddy!
Please say you took care of the corrosion on the left side of the main PCB. That stuff was pure green. I'd recommend white vinegar followed by alcohol if you haven't done so. As for the stuck SMD caps on the audio and power boards, that is due to the leaking of the electrolytic fluid from the caps acting like a glue for the caps. Normally, the glue/adhesive they used is only on the main PCB under the rectangular housed caps. The stuck plastic can be removed with a bit of heat, but you likely won't ever get the adhesive itself off. Beyond that, not bad work!
I have! Did a lot of cleaning off camera. There was quite a bit of corrosion on the pcb.
Thank you for the awesome insight! Really appreciate it!
Can’t wait to get this unit fully modded with a new LCD! Cheers Catherine!
I wonder if acetone would break down the plastic from the capacitors. You would just need to clean it thoroughly and make sure it doesn't get on anything you don't want melted.
That could work! I would be a little worried about damaging plastic though. Thank you for the suggestion Conner!
finally a game gear, briskly the backlight and why not an battery for recharge it, anyway great video as always
Thank you Mehdi! I’ll be doing a lcd mod soon! Stay tuned!!
fish flux was used instead of rosin flux for whatever reason back in the day .60s and early 70s electrolytics tend to smell of poo when opened. If one explodes you find the contents have a matching brown colour. Newer ones tend to smell more like rotting fish, so presumably amines are released by whatever witch's potion is in them. The inside are much paler in colour, too. They used an epoxy glue for those SMT electrolytic caps underneath probably the solder they were using was cheap low point Lead solder so it might of been getting hot enough they fell off during proto types because of their weight.
I have a Sega Nomad that does not turn on. It used to work, it was put away, not used for a couple of years, and then it wouldn't work. So I'm guess that it's the capacitors.
I must have been fortunate enough to not have the plastic fused to the board. I didn't have much trouble removing the capacitors or much to clean up.
When I did this I wasn't really sure of the best way to remove the flush-mounted caps. I dabbed some flux around the flush-mounted ones and gently pulled and wiggled the capacitors while heating the wires in contact with the pads. Then I heated up the pads once I was able to stand the caps up a little bit.
Nice Logan! Yeah this is the first time I had this happen. Usually they lift off fairly easily and cleanly. Thank you for sharing! Cheers!
Hi, it's a pleasant vidéo 😀 May I know what are those CMS capacitors to manage the main pcb, the sound card and the power supply card could you please make us a precise list for ??
Thk's ...
Nice video but ceramic caps are used for filtering and not power applications, electrolititics are used to stabilise voltages and power especially on the power and audio boards, Sega knew to use electrolititics for a reason, not the best replacement when using a good quality Panasonic or Nichion cap.
The plastic hasn't fused. Rather, the components have been glued to the PCB before being soldered down at the factory. Im not sure what type of glue it was, but make sure to use a solvent that won't damage the PCB underneath
It’d be great to find a strong enough solvent that could dissolve the adhesive while not damaging any of the surrounding components.
The residue looks like the "black goop of death". I learned a lot about this when one of my KRK Rokit monitors died, it's a common cost cutting move that's looked down upon.
Interesting! I was actually about to get the Rokit monitors before ending up with my Yamahas.
Yeah it certainly feels like goop of death, it so hard to remove. Cheers Johnny!
@@MachoNachoProductions I replaced them with Adam Audio T5V, it was a couple years ago. Ribbon tweeter life is nice.
Nice!
It's a good vid oooooo dead console back from dead very appropriate the Zombies Ate My Neighbors music would've popped other than that... choice I'm glad to see these old consoles & companies making parts for them its feels good
its a mod well worth doing as leaking caps will trash a pcb if left, looking forward to the lcd mod as it gives much better battery life.have you seen the coloured cased that are available at the moment?
I have! I pre ordered a couple from HHL. I’m wondering if I should have ordered from RetroSix directly to get them sooner. I’m very excited! The shells look absolutely amazing!! Cheers Lee, hope all is well!!
As a electronic novice, I wouldn't think about using ceramic capacitors, as I am not familiar with it. But, after looking at your inspiring video, I can't help thinking "why not???". As long as ceramic capacitors have no polarity, aren't they are easier and nicer to be used?
Just a personal opinion, but I wonder why repair companies don't put more stock into polymer caps. No juice means they don't have the capacity to leak, leading to a longer lifespan. Sure they're more expensive, but I'd rather pay a few more bucks than have to replace those again in 10-20 years...
Other cool things for the GameGear if you don't care about keeping it stock: CleanAmp GG for better sound; CleanJuice GG to replace the batteries with Lipo rechargables & use USB-C vs the old barrel connector; plenty of shell & button replacements; VGA mod, to play it on a TV/monitor; controller mod, to use a Genesis or any other controller with that 15-pin layout to play; plenty of screen replacements. The list goes on. So much love for it nowadays :)
My only concern is using 100uf capacitor in place of a 68uf?
I got the same kit works on my game gear and is amazing
Awesome! Congrats bro!
I just ordered the usb c power board to replace the power board I believe the chip on it is failing but does power up it sometimes doesn't power up and led blinks either way was going replace it for better power going through it the screen is great on it gonna replace the tube with the led $10 backlight from handheld legend basically I'm just refurbishing it
So the power board still needs the electrolytic capactors? Just the ceramics for the mother and sound board?
That is correct. There are only 3 electrolytic caps in the kit and they are all for the power board. Everything else is ceramic. Hope that helps!
Or you can just replace the whole power board directly with the new retrosix USB c power module 😁
Very true! That is also a great option!
You make this look really easy. As someone who has never really done much soldering, would you recommend this as a project for a beginner?
Hey Rick! I would say this might be a bit more of an advanced project. I would recommend buying a cheap soldering practice kit on amazon. They sell small soldering projects that’ll help you get used to the soldering basics. This is something I would tackle once you have some experience. I hope this helps. Cheers Rick and best of luck!!
@@MachoNachoProductions you were right and I didn’t listen to you, and now I have a broken Game Gear haha
Oh no! Sorry to hear that bro. Thankfully game gears are pretty cheap. Try and find a broken one on eBay and try to fix it! Cheers buddy!!
Nice!
Thank you!
Nacho I just ordered my ceramic cap kit from retro six. Never did a repair like this. All I have is a discount store solder pen and your video to go by. Wish me luck. Any tips or suggestions are welcome. Ps I have soldered 18/2 wire to LED light strips with great success.
When designing PCBs with larger Capacitors it is very common to glue the components to the PCB before it goes through the IR solder reflow process. This is done due to the fact that the solder pads are just not big enough to support the possible vibration loads of these larger components. I don't think there are any solvents that will take this glue off without doing some major damage to the surrounding PCB. Once we put them on we don't want them to come off, ever. :-) Thus your method of melting the plastic is one of the best, the other methods of removal are careful cutting and scraping, or the use of a small milling machine.
You should also point out to your audience that when working on electronics you need to control static discharges that build up in the environment and the person doing the repair work. You should always wear a static dissipating wrist strap.
Thank you Brian for all this amazing information and insight! Great stuff and very much appreciated! Cheers my friend!!
Thing is, I don't remember the SMD nor tant caps being glued to the board when I did my GG recap. Nor have I seen that on any other system since.
It could have been some weird composition of the plastic or heat issue. I don't know what would cause it to stick like that; usually it pops off once the cap is removed, and I doubt they would glue all of the caps down because that would waste money.
Well, either way it works. Now to get the screen replaced.
I had to melt the fused plastic with solder iron also.
I've seen PCBs with SMD components glued down like those capacitors on the sound board. Hopefully a practice that is not revived!
Tito, heads up that is a terrible way to remove those caps off the audio board. especially considering these systems caps tend to be badly corroded by the time people get to them, any pressure will rip pads off. the other issue is your method leaves behind the plastic base. the best way to remove these caps is with a hot a hot air station at 380ish degrees C on high air output. takes about 5-8 seconds and they literally just slide off. cleanly, no left behind plastics.
I fix DJI Drones and I've seen so many of them fail because of ceramic caps going short in under a year so I'll stick to electrolytic
Ola ,amigo tengo un problema ,la pantalla demi consola tiene la tercera parte casi totalmente oscura arriba, le he cambiado los condensadores pensando que con eso se arreglaba y no ,mejoro el sonido y el brillo pero sigue igual la pantalla ,tu que sabes ...que sucede ai hombre y gracias🧐
Did you replace the front shell. The gash in the bottom right of the game gear is missing when you mention to wipe it down with 303.
I cleaned the shell off camera. The bottom right of the shell had some gooey residue that I removed. It kinda looked like a gash but it was actually black goo. The shell is the same one. Cheers!