I love how well you explained step by step, l thank you very much for your greatest help, l will see more videos off you God bless you 🙏 and all your family, and bring more bissnes allso
Hey man love your videos. I have dyslexia and it makes it really hard to do some jobs. Being able to watch you do the job really helps. Thanks for all the time you put into doing your videos. You wouldn't believe how much it helps. Have a great day.
I found the valve adjustment seq how you laid it out super simple! So many times i see other people make it all confusing! I saved this vid for when i dig into my ‘02 24v HO 6 speed, and do all sorts of fun things like a all our carzy carls p pump conversion. All the billet parts! Everything! Ive waited 9 years to do it. I bought this truck 9 years ago with 79,000mi, a cherry mint unicorn. All stock all org, 100% un -molested. I told myself i wouldn’t dig it to the motor and go crazy on it till it had at least 100,000 miles (not km! Im in Colo.) and it was broken in. Heh. They say they don’t break in till they hit 100k. But all out p pump is where im going. All mechanical! The second gen vp44’s are still mechanical with the addition of a little bit of eletronics. Injectors are still all Mechanical, ill have to change pop pressures. Not going for high horse power, gunna keep it realistic in the 400-500. Im after reliability, and i could easily build that with the vp44 injection system, and keep the reliability and longevity. But p7100 pumps are just so cool! They’re literally a little mini cummins motor on the side. Ive always wanted a p pump. Ive had 6 first gen 12 valves over the years, all VE rotary pumps. And theyre awesome, and super reliable, easily tune able, still capeable of the 400-500hp range, 600 is bout the cap for a VE. Ive kinda even kicked around the idea of a VE pump swap, it wouldn’t be much different, it’s certainly doable. Ive heard of one other person on utube that did a VE swap on a 24v. He was able to use the VP injection lines i remember reading. Fun stuff to think about. And thats what i live about these motors, theyre simple, easily modded, changed, redone, and built. You dont see guys doing stuff like that with a durajunk.
Bro I just did this today. Installed it I never watched this video...I wish I did!!! The fuel return took me 3 hours.. I bend the line somehow so it was hell. But have injectors installed now and all wiring. You can help people save a ton of money if they have the tools and can physically do this. I also installed a HP-HD water pump. New radiator, New ac system, gasket + aftermarket stud kit. I would encourage everyone that does this to do this also at a minimum. Those water pumps suck and the HD one has a 2x larger shaft. Mine failed abruptly, coolant entered cyl 5 and hydrolocked the injector nozzle. Died. No piston damage but it did slightly discolor a tiny spot where I believe it got torched for about the 60 seconds my father ran it. No water in oil. Truck did lose coolant slowly though for awhile.
love it man frfr very informative . im a new diesel owner but loved them all my life. so it was safe to say i new nothing about working on them and ur videos r the best and very very instructive with specs and procedures ...thanks man
Thanks for posting these 2 vids. Saves me a lot of headache figuring out where things are to do this job. I really hope I can pull the head with out a cherry picker though.
No problem! It’s going to be hard to pull that head without some kind of picker. It’s pretty heavy. But you can usually go to a local parts or rent-it store and rent an engine picker like I used in the video. It makes life a lot easier. Plus you don’t want to drop the head on a new gasket and wreck the gasket.
I would recommend finding tdc1 before disembly, that way you know exactly where the engine was, there is a chance with out doing so that a person could be on tdc6 especially if they loosen off the rocker all they way which a person should do on disassembly. Crank shaft turns twice to the cam. Otherwise you'd ether need to remove front cover for timing marks or use a dial indicator and measure cam lift. Be nice if they put a cam timing pin like the old cummins have
Job Well Done Sir:. Congrats, I did learn by watching you.. you explain things very well while your doing them. And you video very well the nuts and bolts. Awesome job. Thank you. 👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸 🇨🇦
No hate here just stating the only thing I noticed that I didn't really think was necessary was cracking/bleeding the fuel line of air. Commonrails are a self bleeding system. I've taken off the entire fuel system on my commonrail and even the 6.7 trucks and it fires right up after running the fuel pump awhile. I just swapped over to a 12 valve after 443k miles and I'm still running the factory in tank lift pump(which is a super restrictive) and every time I do a fuel filter I just run the factory pump for a good minute or so. It usually fires up pretty good by the second fire up. First time it'll start and die out. Good stuff even though I don't need to do the head gasket I just thought it was interesting to see how others do it. I watched the whole thing and liked! Good stuff!
Thanks buddy! I guess I was just always taught to bleed the air out of the fuel system but maybe next time I’ll try just cycling the pump a few times and see if it fires up!
@@darkirondiesel I was more curious than anything. I used to hate having to bleed the old pre commonrail trucks. After doing the swap I realized an electric pump makes a huge difference on the old motors. Unfortunately I'll have to delete the pump and do a sump because it only allows 14psi if I'm lucky 🤦♂️ I was told I should have 17 at idle for this motor and 10psi per 1k rpms. I guess that explains why it makes power down low but chokes up top 😬😅
I have the same 5.9 and there is significantly less cranking if you crack a fuel line and let the air escape, however it will eventually self bleed. Excellent video!!
@@darkirondiesel If you "bump" the starter with the key for just a quick second, it will allow the fuel pump to run longer then the initial 15-30 it is programmed to do. Next time you change the fuel filter, just drop the new one in, cycle your key initially, then bump it and you'll hear the fuel pump run. Usually only takes doing that twice and she fires right up. Keep up the detailed videos!
😲😲😲 for future reference soak block in dot 3 brake fluid over night grab a brillo pad a block of wood and just go back and forth much safer option never had an issue also a great way to clean a head as well
UPDATE: Nevermind disregard my question, thats why you torqued your head studs to 130 and cranked the engine by hand 9 times for the valve lash duh! You're a smart feller Dark Iron Diesel! Your videos are seriously the best thank you sir! Did you have to re torque everything down after the initial test drive? Just curious, I know my truck is going to be do for new head gasket sooner than later.
(EDIT: see replies below for update.) 360 degrees, full rotation? Uh, no, because then you're back to square 1! I hope you figured out that error before and didn't keep your truck messed up, because it's supposed to be 180 degrees, just _half_ a rotation. (I read the specs somewhere else; came here to get a reminder of alternator and front lift bracket bolts.)
WOWW, @@darkirondiesel, "buddy," "nice" reply, especially just 2 days before Christmas; ya got a lotta Christmas spirit right there, huh? I called a dealer to make sure and they sent me the specs right from FCA, and they say it's 180 degrees at the _injection pump gear,_ so that means 360 at the _crankshaft,_ like you said. So give me some kind of indicator that you've seen my self-correction here, and then I'll delete this thread.
Can you drop a list of parts for everything I’ll need to do this at home? Tia bro, love the video, really gonna help me out a bunch, keep up the good work brotha
I watched 2 times before l do the pu all back l put the head by hands did not have hoist jack it's lot of much harder doing all put the head of and on by hand, l think l did it right thanks for video , on 1999 l think the head bolts all are the same l noticed some don't click it's wen l realized l put manifold bolts in wrong place jje jje jje jje yes it's mi first time doing truck 1999 5.7 Diesel l have done newer but no olders
I’ve used your video to do my own head gasket and everything is the same so far minus the tax mark for the crank shaft I do not have one there is a hole on the backside of the outer part of the balancer that does not go all the way through a little guidance would be much appreciated
so i think my truck is tapping and i changed the oil and cut the filter apart to check it and there was no shavings in it.. so i went to the valve lash and did that and came up with the same as u did which very helpfull vid by the way.. after adjusting and rotatig the motor over 4 full rotations i came up withthe same thing i think 3pos4 needed readjusted....so i did that and it made it a bit Quiter and made it run way stronger for sure..........but i feel it still noisy but it runs fine, is there somthing else i can check to ease my mind wheather to put money into it...........or if i sent u a video do u think u could determine if it sounds right or not
Little late for my comment but don't forget to do a hot re torque . Great video man very well explained .I imagine it would be same on a 24v 98.5 cummins correct only difference is injectors,and wiring harness correct ?
Been watching lots of your vids as well as deboss trying to learn as much as I can about my 05 5.9. I noticed he doesn't sinch down the injectors until the feed tubes are installed and torqued. I'm curious to hear your opinion on the two different methods?
Never ever ever tighten the injector down before the feed tube is in and torqued. Otherwise it could not seat properly and you can have a leak. I just did the injectors on my 05 last year and it went pretty smooth as long as you understand the steps and in what order.
Great video man I’m buying a Cummins 07 5.9 tommrow and the top radiator hose is hard like in you’re what to look for when buying a diesel video and there is no coolant in the Resavor and I seen some black smoke then shortly after some white smoke come out after giving it some gas. It’s not overheating (yet) so I’m going to change the gasket just in case . If you don’t mind how much does a typical job like this cost if you do the job you’re self ?
hey man, so I just did my head gasket on my 2006 24v cummins. I watched both your videos on doing yours, I've got a couple questions if you don't mind. so I did a retorque on the studs today because I'm getting some oil seeping out the side I used a mahle gasket and coated it with copper seal. I've also got a tick that doesn't sound normal almost like an injector tick. any advise you have would be appreciated 🙏
I forgot to clean out the head stud holes before putting my head and head gasket on and left oil in there. I noticed after torquing it I could see oil seeping between the block and head on the drivers side. Should I be concerned?
Great video just doing my first cummins head and it was very helpful. What coolant did you use in your truck? And is there a procedure to bleeding the coolant system.
Thank you. I just use red or orange extended life premixed Diesel engine coolant. You can just fill it up with coolant then take it for a drive, once it gets up to temperature the thermostat will open up and probably suck the coolant down a bit. just top it up after you go for a drive.
Good evening great video thank you for your help I replaced my head gasket put everything back together now she won’t start at all get fuel When I crack open a injector line close it up crank for a while she won’t start at all any advice would be much appreciated thank you
How long you cranking for? You should crank for 30 seconds then let the starter rest for 2 minutes. Do that a couple times and see if it fires. Make sure your batteries are good
Dark Iron Diesel good afternoon I have cranked for at least 30 seconds a couple of times till my batteries got low I charged them up again and tried again she starts and runs rough on quick start for 2 seconds then dies I know you shouldn’t do that I have been told it can be my injector feeding tubes but she ran very well before I did the head gasket
Uh-oh, were there 6 longer _bolts_ too, or are the _bolts_ the same length even though 6 of the studs are longer? I just came to watch this video to get a reminder of the alternator bolt set. I already put my head bolts back in and didn't remember any of them being longer than others; I just grabbed them from my bowl in any order. Mine's a 2001. Were any of your bolts longer, or is that just for studs for some reason?
I think the bolts are all the same length but personally I’ve never used bolts because they stretch, I always use head studs because it greatly reduces the risk of blowing the head gasket again. And what happened to your other comment? You realize that the crankshaft rotates 720 degrees in a full engine cycle? The crank rotates twice every time the camshaft rotates once.
@@darkirondiesel: What happened to my other post, you ask? You felt the "need" to reply rudely to me on it only 2 days before Christmas just because I got the _pump gear_ (180) and the _crankshaft_ (360) mixed up, and realized that after calling a dealer to make sure and they sent me the specs right from "the horse's mouth" (FCA). Nice! OK, so you _have_ used head bolts in this truck then: for the amount of time you've driven it until swapping them out for studs and nuts. I reused my NON-TTY bolts because I didn't have the money to buy new ones or studs, but experts say you can reuse NON-TTY head bolts once or twice if they don't feel soft when you try torquing on one. They're more springy than yield bolts.
Just curious... Why didn't you put the rail and lines on prior to dropping the head in? I put mine in this past weekend, but as annoying as #5 and #6 are to do, I installed the full fuel system before. Injectors and all. Just have to be a little more cautious I guess.
Yeah I know you can do that but I prefer to have as little on the cylinder head as possible. Also, I believe the injector tips stick out of the head a little bit, so you have to be extremely careful that you have the cylinder head propped up so your injector tips don’t hit anything because if the tips get damaged then the spray pattern will be way off and can cause engine damage
Pulled the head on my truck today ran into a broken off plastic piece on the rocker arm that goes down the valve bridges truck ran fine with it sitting in the head do I need to try and find a replacement one I would think that the tension from valve springs won’t let the roller move anyhow
I’m pretty sure those are there mainly for installing the rocker arms so those rollers don’t fall out. So as long as you put it together properly then it shouldn’t go anywhere with the tension from the valve springs like you said
Hey man I have an 06, just did all new injectors, but about 2 months ago I had #6 vavle bridge jump off. So now after the injector install it has a weird hiss so to say coming from exhaust. I have a video of it running if that will help.
Also do you have the sizes? You said one was bigger than the other. I’m going to replace the two at the back of the head as well and the two to connect to the fuel rail
After I put my head back on it will not start only starts with ether, any idea what might be the cause? It’s an 08 6.7 I followed your video to a T and can’t figure it out I’m going crazy chasing this problem, do I have to prime to fuel pump or anything like that? It definitely seems like a fuel problem since ether will fire it right up 😞 so stressed lol first diesel truck seems like these things are finicky! Thanks for all your help
It’s gotta be a fuel issue. If possible you should borrow a scanner and watch your fuel rail pressure when cranking. I’m not sure off the top of my head what it needs to fire the truck but I’m guessing it isn’t getting that. Possibly an injector isn’t torqued down properly, or a fuel tube. If the truck has been running pull the oil dipstick and see if it smells like diesel. Also I wouldn’t recommend starting your truck with ether it’s not good for your engine
Dark Iron Diesel if I remember correctly I wanna say about 5k psi I could be wrong though. I just rewatched and seen that you primed it and I didn’t do that. I tore it back down to the injectors and re torqued everything to spec and it didn’t help. Didn’t know that about ether! Thanks for the warning! I’ll try again and try to get my buddies scanner your video was a huge help I feel like I owe you money it was so helpful 🤣
Ya that sounds about right, if you don’t let the air out of the system you will be cranking for a very long time. Just how I did it in the video, crack and injector line and crank until fuel starts coming out. Then tighten it and it should fire. When cranking make sure you have a charger hooked to your battery and you can crank for 30 seconds then let it sit for 2 min and continue the process. Gives time for the starter to cool.
Dark Iron Diesel ok she’s running now fires right up... but it’s smoking like a mad man and have a very rough/jerky idle that fluctuates and if I give it gas/throttle the rpm shoots up and hangs open for a min
Nope gasket is still fine, along with the 30+ other trucks I’ve done head gaskets on. I know it’s not proper procedure but if you go gentle and make sure you don’t see sparks I really don’t see a problem with it. Combine that with a new gasket and arp head studs and you’re laughing.
Best video I've found on head gasket replacement good work and thankyou
Thanks buddy!
I love how well you explained step by step, l thank you very much for your greatest help, l will see more videos off you God bless you 🙏 and all your family, and bring more bissnes allso
Hey man love your videos. I have dyslexia and it makes it really hard to do some jobs. Being able to watch you do the job really helps. Thanks for all the time you put into doing your videos. You wouldn't believe how much it helps. Have a great day.
Thanks buddy I’m glad I could help!
I found the valve adjustment seq how you laid it out super simple! So many times i see other people make it all confusing! I saved this vid for when i dig into my ‘02 24v HO 6 speed, and do all sorts of fun things like a all our carzy carls p pump conversion. All the billet parts! Everything! Ive waited 9 years to do it. I bought this truck 9 years ago with 79,000mi, a cherry mint unicorn. All stock all org, 100% un -molested. I told myself i wouldn’t dig it to the motor and go crazy on it till it had at least 100,000 miles (not km! Im in Colo.) and it was broken in. Heh. They say they don’t break in till they hit 100k. But all out p pump is where im going. All mechanical! The second gen vp44’s are still mechanical with the addition of a little bit of eletronics. Injectors are still all
Mechanical, ill have to change pop pressures.
Not going for high horse power, gunna keep it realistic in the 400-500. Im after reliability, and i could easily build that with the vp44 injection system, and keep the reliability and longevity. But p7100 pumps are just so cool! They’re literally a little mini cummins motor on the side. Ive always wanted a p pump. Ive had 6 first gen 12 valves over the years, all VE rotary pumps. And theyre awesome, and super reliable, easily tune able, still capeable of the 400-500hp range, 600 is bout the cap for a VE. Ive kinda even kicked around the idea of a VE pump swap, it wouldn’t be much different, it’s certainly doable. Ive heard of one other person on utube that did a VE swap on a 24v. He was able to use the VP injection lines i remember reading. Fun stuff to think about. And thats what i live about these motors, theyre simple, easily modded, changed, redone, and built. You dont see guys doing stuff like that with a durajunk.
Best video for true step by on head gasket for cummins and install info
Thanks buddy!
Doing a head gasket on my 99 24v, although things are a bit different this video was super helpful! Thanks!
I thank you very much for your good explanation about hevry step, my brother God bless you and your family, ❤😅🎉
Excellent video, step by step, thorough and informative. Thank you
Bro I just did this today. Installed it I never watched this video...I wish I did!!!
The fuel return took me 3 hours.. I bend the line somehow so it was hell.
But have injectors installed now and all wiring.
You can help people save a ton of money if they have the tools and can physically do this.
I also installed a HP-HD water pump. New radiator, New ac system, gasket + aftermarket stud kit.
I would encourage everyone that does this to do this also at a minimum. Those water pumps suck and the HD one has a 2x larger shaft.
Mine failed abruptly, coolant entered cyl 5 and hydrolocked the injector nozzle. Died.
No piston damage but it did slightly discolor a tiny spot where I believe it got torched for about the 60 seconds my father ran it.
No water in oil. Truck did lose coolant slowly though for awhile.
Great video thanks for being so detailed on doing the procedure it is an asset knowing all the specs required as well.
I keep watching old how to videos of yours! Keep them coming!
love it man frfr very informative . im a new diesel owner but loved them all my life. so it was safe to say i new nothing about working on them and ur videos r the best and very very instructive with specs and procedures ...thanks man
Great 2 part video my 5.9 just roared back to life
Thanks!
Great Job on the Head Gasket replacement! Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work! 👍
When did the term "head gasket" become a brand name?
Thanks for posting these 2 vids. Saves me a lot of headache figuring out where things are to do this job. I really hope I can pull the head with out a cherry picker though.
No problem! It’s going to be hard to pull that head without some kind of picker. It’s pretty heavy. But you can usually go to a local parts or rent-it store and rent an engine picker like I used in the video. It makes life a lot easier. Plus you don’t want to drop the head on a new gasket and wreck the gasket.
I would recommend finding tdc1 before disembly, that way you know exactly where the engine was, there is a chance with out doing so that a person could be on tdc6 especially if they loosen off the rocker all they way which a person should do on disassembly. Crank shaft turns twice to the cam. Otherwise you'd ether need to remove front cover for timing marks or use a dial indicator and measure cam lift. Be nice if they put a cam timing pin like the old cummins have
Job Well Done Sir:. Congrats, I did learn by watching you.. you explain things very well while your doing them. And you video very well the nuts and bolts. Awesome job. Thank you. 👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸 🇨🇦
I live in Texas, did grid heater delete, don t need all the extra stuff.good video.
I’m sorry for the Spanish coment.Esa es la satisfacción de nosotros los mecánicos cuando hacemos un motor y todo sale bien asta cebramos 😂😂👍
No hate here just stating the only thing I noticed that I didn't really think was necessary was cracking/bleeding the fuel line of air. Commonrails are a self bleeding system. I've taken off the entire fuel system on my commonrail and even the 6.7 trucks and it fires right up after running the fuel pump awhile. I just swapped over to a 12 valve after 443k miles and I'm still running the factory in tank lift pump(which is a super restrictive) and every time I do a fuel filter I just run the factory pump for a good minute or so. It usually fires up pretty good by the second fire up. First time it'll start and die out. Good stuff even though I don't need to do the head gasket I just thought it was interesting to see how others do it. I watched the whole thing and liked! Good stuff!
Thanks buddy! I guess I was just always taught to bleed the air out of the fuel system but maybe next time I’ll try just cycling the pump a few times and see if it fires up!
@@darkirondiesel I was more curious than anything. I used to hate having to bleed the old pre commonrail trucks. After doing the swap I realized an electric pump makes a huge difference on the old motors. Unfortunately I'll have to delete the pump and do a sump because it only allows 14psi if I'm lucky 🤦♂️ I was told I should have 17 at idle for this motor and 10psi per 1k rpms. I guess that explains why it makes power down low but chokes up top 😬😅
I have the same 5.9 and there is significantly less cranking if you crack a fuel line and let the air escape, however it will eventually self bleed. Excellent video!!
@@darkirondiesel If you "bump" the starter with the key for just a quick second, it will allow the fuel pump to run longer then the initial 15-30 it is programmed to do. Next time you change the fuel filter, just drop the new one in, cycle your key initially, then bump it and you'll hear the fuel pump run. Usually only takes doing that twice and she fires right up. Keep up the detailed videos!
@@darkirondiesel yea no need to bleed it at all
Awesome job, like your style of explaining every detail thanks
Awsome job my man
You are a great person
Awesome video man so much useful information.
Gonna do mine soon. Excellent video Thks
Thank you! Good luck!
😲😲😲 for future reference soak block in dot 3 brake fluid over night grab a brillo pad a block of wood and just go back and forth much safer option never had an issue also a great way to clean a head as well
Very good job explaining everything. Quality work..
Thank you!
Love the videos and love the background music 👌
Great video bro.
Thank you!
Good job Brotha. I might have to do a top end on my 12 valve.
UPDATE: Nevermind disregard my question, thats why you torqued your head studs to 130 and cranked the engine by hand 9 times for the valve lash duh! You're a smart feller Dark Iron Diesel!
Your videos are seriously the best thank you sir! Did you have to re torque everything down after the initial test drive? Just curious, I know my truck is going to be do for new head gasket sooner than later.
You are a good teacher
Thank you!
(EDIT: see replies below for update.) 360 degrees, full rotation? Uh, no, because then you're back to square 1! I hope you figured out that error before and didn't keep your truck messed up, because it's supposed to be 180 degrees, just _half_ a rotation. (I read the specs somewhere else; came here to get a reminder of alternator and front lift bracket bolts.)
Alright buddy you do 180 degrees and tell me how that works out for you lol
WOWW, @@darkirondiesel, "buddy," "nice" reply, especially just 2 days before Christmas; ya got a lotta Christmas spirit right there, huh?
I called a dealer to make sure and they sent me the specs right from FCA, and they say it's 180 degrees at the _injection pump gear,_ so that means 360 at the _crankshaft,_ like you said. So give me some kind of indicator that you've seen my self-correction here, and then I'll delete this thread.
Excellent video keep up the good work
Excellent video, thank you!
Can you drop a list of parts for everything I’ll need to do this at home? Tia bro, love the video, really gonna help me out a bunch, keep up the good work brotha
I watched 2 times before l do the pu all back l put the head by hands did not have hoist jack it's lot of much harder doing all put the head of and on by hand, l think l did it right thanks for video , on 1999 l think the head bolts all are the same l noticed some don't click it's wen l realized l put manifold bolts in wrong place jje jje jje jje yes it's mi first time doing truck 1999 5.7 Diesel l have done newer but no olders
Very detailed video
Editing was Professional
Great video!
Great job man
The video was so good liked and subbed
I’ve used your video to do my own head gasket and everything is the same so far minus the tax mark for the crank shaft I do not have one there is a hole on the backside of the outer part of the balancer that does not go all the way through a little guidance would be much appreciated
so i think my truck is tapping and i changed the oil and cut the filter apart to check it and there was no shavings in it.. so i went to the valve lash and did that and came up with the same as u did which very helpfull vid by the way.. after adjusting and rotatig the motor over 4 full rotations i came up withthe same thing i think 3pos4 needed readjusted....so i did that and it made it a bit Quiter and made it run way stronger for sure..........but i feel it still noisy but it runs fine, is there somthing else i can check to ease my mind wheather to put money into it...........or if i sent u a video do u think u could determine if it sounds right or not
great job
Little late for my comment but don't forget to do a hot re torque . Great video man very well explained .I imagine it would be same on a 24v 98.5 cummins correct only difference is injectors,and wiring harness correct ?
Been watching lots of your vids as well as deboss trying to learn as much as I can about my 05 5.9. I noticed he doesn't sinch down the injectors until the feed tubes are installed and torqued. I'm curious to hear your opinion on the two different methods?
Never ever ever tighten the injector down before the feed tube is in and torqued. Otherwise it could not seat properly and you can have a leak. I just did the injectors on my 05 last year and it went pretty smooth as long as you understand the steps and in what order.
@@200130769 exactly
Great 👍
Great video man I’m buying a Cummins 07 5.9 tommrow and the top radiator hose is hard like in you’re what to look for when buying a diesel video and there is no coolant in the Resavor and I seen some black smoke then shortly after some white smoke come out after giving it some gas. It’s not overheating (yet) so I’m going to change the gasket just in case . If you don’t mind how much does a typical job like this cost if you do the job you’re self ?
How much should I expect to pay for the at exact type of head work?
Hey man I hope you can get back to me do you know how to work on four wheelers?
Good job on the video! I'm kind of surprised you had to do a head gasket on the 5.9. Out of curiosity, how many miles are on it?
@@fartfanugen that's not really saying much considering these motors dont really have a lot of problems to begin with.
hey man, so I just did my head gasket on my 2006 24v cummins. I watched both your videos on doing yours, I've got a couple questions if you don't mind. so I did a retorque on the studs today because I'm getting some oil seeping out the side I used a mahle gasket and coated it with copper seal. I've also got a tick that doesn't sound normal almost like an injector tick. any advise you have would be appreciated 🙏
are those 925 head studs ? thanks
I forgot to clean out the head stud holes before putting my head and head gasket on and left oil in there. I noticed after torquing it I could see oil seeping between the block and head on the drivers side. Should I be concerned?
Great video just doing my first cummins head and it was very helpful. What coolant did you use in your truck? And is there a procedure to bleeding the coolant system.
Thank you. I just use red or orange extended life premixed Diesel engine coolant. You can just fill it up with coolant then take it for a drive, once it gets up to temperature the thermostat will open up and probably suck the coolant down a bit. just top it up after you go for a drive.
Yup, worked... :-)
Good evening great video thank you for your help I replaced my head gasket put everything back together now she won’t start at all get fuel When I crack open a injector line close it up crank for a while she won’t start at all any advice would be much appreciated thank you
How long you cranking for? You should crank for 30 seconds then let the starter rest for 2 minutes. Do that a couple times and see if it fires. Make sure your batteries are good
Dark Iron Diesel good afternoon I have cranked for at least 30 seconds a couple of times till my batteries got low I charged them up again and tried again she starts and runs rough on quick start for 2 seconds then dies I know you shouldn’t do that I have been told it can be my injector feeding tubes but she ran very well before I did the head gasket
@@trevorbotha465 did u get it figured. I’m about to do this . I have done it before but on a 12 v
@@trevorbotha465 sounds like a weak Cp3
Lucky me, I don’t have a TDC mark on my crank pulley 👍🏼
Link to those feeler gauges
I don't think you mentioned it but is it necessary to do a hot retorque?
In your description start your time stamps with 0:00 and it will make the chapters in the red time line of the video. :-)
Really? I’m gonna try it
Did that work?
Nice!!
Yikes. Whiz wheel on the block and then wielding the torque wrench with ham fists. Hope it holds well for you!
20k people watched this video and only 700 could like the video?
Uh-oh, were there 6 longer _bolts_ too, or are the _bolts_ the same length even though 6 of the studs are longer? I just came to watch this video to get a reminder of the alternator bolt set. I already put my head bolts back in and didn't remember any of them being longer than others; I just grabbed them from my bowl in any order. Mine's a 2001. Were any of your bolts longer, or is that just for studs for some reason?
I think the bolts are all the same length but personally I’ve never used bolts because they stretch, I always use head studs because it greatly reduces the risk of blowing the head gasket again. And what happened to your other comment? You realize that the crankshaft rotates 720 degrees in a full engine cycle? The crank rotates twice every time the camshaft rotates once.
@@darkirondiesel: What happened to my other post, you ask? You felt the "need" to reply rudely to me on it only 2 days before Christmas just because I got the _pump gear_ (180) and the _crankshaft_ (360) mixed up, and realized that after calling a dealer to make sure and they sent me the specs right from "the horse's mouth" (FCA). Nice!
OK, so you _have_ used head bolts in this truck then: for the amount of time you've driven it until swapping them out for studs and nuts. I reused my NON-TTY bolts because I didn't have the money to buy new ones or studs, but experts say you can reuse NON-TTY head bolts once or twice if they don't feel soft when you try torquing on one. They're more springy than yield bolts.
was the thickness of the gasket 1.20 or 1.28 ?
Just curious... Why didn't you put the rail and lines on prior to dropping the head in? I put mine in this past weekend, but as annoying as #5 and #6 are to do, I installed the full fuel system before. Injectors and all. Just have to be a little more cautious I guess.
Yeah I know you can do that but I prefer to have as little on the cylinder head as possible. Also, I believe the injector tips stick out of the head a little bit, so you have to be extremely careful that you have the cylinder head propped up so your injector tips don’t hit anything because if the tips get damaged then the spray pattern will be way off and can cause engine damage
@@darkirondiesel ya they do... It's a little tighter that way.. But #6 injector tube nut torque down is an absolute bugger back there. Lol
Haha yes it is!
Pulled the head on my truck today ran into a broken off plastic piece on the rocker arm that goes down the valve bridges truck ran fine with it sitting in the head do I need to try and find a replacement one I would think that the tension from valve springs won’t let the roller move anyhow
I’m pretty sure those are there mainly for installing the rocker arms so those rollers don’t fall out. So as long as you put it together properly then it shouldn’t go anywhere with the tension from the valve springs like you said
Dark Iron Diesel ok thanks man just checking
I’m using the same kit. And I have o-rings and such that I’m unsure about. Is there any way you can answer a few questions I have?
You don’t need to use all the o rings. I probably only use like 2/3 of what comes in the kit
Hey man I have an 06, just did all new injectors, but about 2 months ago I had #6 vavle bridge jump off. So now after the injector install it has a weird hiss so to say coming from exhaust. I have a video of it running if that will help.
sure send me a message with the video on instagram @darkirondiesel
@@darkirondiesel can send it via email, i don't have insta
Where you get those feeler gauges
👍
What gasket did you use?
You do not apply the supplied grease to the threads that go in the block.
Wat
Do you have a link for those banjo bolt washers?
Also do you have the sizes? You said one was bigger than the other. I’m going to replace the two at the back of the head as well and the two to connect to the fuel rail
👍💪
After I put my head back on it will not start only starts with ether, any idea what might be the cause? It’s an 08 6.7 I followed your video to a T and can’t figure it out I’m going crazy chasing this problem, do I have to prime to fuel pump or anything like that? It definitely seems like a fuel problem since ether will fire it right up 😞 so stressed lol first diesel truck seems like these things are finicky! Thanks for all your help
It’s gotta be a fuel issue. If possible you should borrow a scanner and watch your fuel rail pressure when cranking. I’m not sure off the top of my head what it needs to fire the truck but I’m guessing it isn’t getting that. Possibly an injector isn’t torqued down properly, or a fuel tube. If the truck has been running pull the oil dipstick and see if it smells like diesel. Also I wouldn’t recommend starting your truck with ether it’s not good for your engine
Dark Iron Diesel if I remember correctly I wanna say about 5k psi I could be wrong though. I just rewatched and seen that you primed it and I didn’t do that. I tore it back down to the injectors and re torqued everything to spec and it didn’t help. Didn’t know that about ether! Thanks for the warning! I’ll try again and try to get my buddies scanner your video was a huge help I feel like I owe you money it was so helpful 🤣
Ya that sounds about right, if you don’t let the air out of the system you will be cranking for a very long time. Just how I did it in the video, crack and injector line and crank until fuel starts coming out. Then tighten it and it should fire. When cranking make sure you have a charger hooked to your battery and you can crank for 30 seconds then let it sit for 2 min and continue the process. Gives time for the starter to cool.
Dark Iron Diesel I appreciate you taking the time to reply! I’ll keep you posted
Dark Iron Diesel ok she’s running now fires right up... but it’s smoking like a mad man and have a very rough/jerky idle that fluctuates and if I give it gas/throttle the rpm shoots up and hangs open for a min
Around how much would you quote for this exact service?
Around $4000-$4500
How many $$ did the machine shop charge for the work?
I don't remember exactly but it was around $500 CAD
where can I contact you
anyone know what brand torque wrench that is?
My 3/8 and 1/2 inch torque wrench are both made by precision instruments. Basically the exact same as a snap on but about a third of the price.
Dark Iron Diesel thank you!
Thats not an sos pad
Never ever ever ever use a wizzer wheel on the block or head!!!!!! Did you blow that gasket yet?
Nope gasket is still fine, along with the 30+ other trucks I’ve done head gaskets on. I know it’s not proper procedure but if you go gentle and make sure you don’t see sparks I really don’t see a problem with it. Combine that with a new gasket and arp head studs and you’re laughing.
@@darkirondiesel I would say use the rubber fingers disk. Idk grinding groves with those disks just makes me cringe. To each his own.
great job