I have an Autel Maxiscope on trial from my local parts supplier. So far doesn't seem a bad scope for the money. I use it on PC and my Maxisys 908 pro. The only drawback I have seen is that you have to manually input scope settings, which isn't a big deal. I have an Snap on Modis which has a scope too but I am thinking of replacing it because of a dim screen. You should contact Autel and offer a training vid on the Maxiscope. I haven't seen any worth watching yet and maybe they would pay some decent bucks for one! I would surely watch! Thanks for your vids!
Today is the day I will find this helpful. In the back of my mind, I remembered something about Ford shutting the sensor down when they throw a code. Thank you Eric, you are an amazing and gifted mechanic and teacher.
I am a shade tree guy who works on his own stuff. I thought I was good at working on cars until I watched some of Eric's videos. The difference between myself and a professional is amazing. I learn more with every video.
still amazes me the old ones rarely did that and when they did you sure knew it, from the large smoke signals and burnt fusible wire or links >_> sometimes they'd just kill an already weak battery, bu that's likely why it failed to start with....
Another most interesting and informative video. Thank you so much for taking the time to do these. If it ever gets too cold for you up there come on down to SW Florida. No rust down here and I will be your best customer!
This is handy! Got 2 busted ABS Sensors in the front of my Exploder. I broke one, the other one looks like it's been broke for years. When I'm able to again, I'd like to switch them out and weirdly enough, I was thinking earlier about how I should look up how to do it. And WAM Eric O came to the rescue! You da man!
Not all Ford wheel speed sensors are magnetoresistive. I am pretty sure mine on my old E150 are just inductive. The second important take away from this video is that on this system you have to clear the code to get it to "power up" the new sensor. If not, it will still be "dead".
I have access to a scanner to clear ABS codes :) But I'm lazy and put things off so I probably won't get to it for a few more months. I honestly may never do it lol. The only code it had was a RF Wheel speed sensor code. And now since I broke the LF one, it has both of them. I have no idea what the magnetoresistive or inductive means. Maybe have to google later, I love learning new things. Thanks for your input Jack
Awesome work. I have a test car in the workshop for everyone to play with...think it has active sensors. I'll go play with the UScope n see how I go. Thank you again.
Only found you about a week ago, but you're my favorite mechanic to watch now. Also, seeing all those rusty, salty undercarriages reminds me of home haha. I'm from Milford, CT and live in Phoenix now. Phoenix is much friendlier to cars!
Aye the Autel Scope is out and the Verus is on the bench 😱😱😱 I cant believe you're using it. You must have been in a good mood that day. Eric come on every thing you teach us is useful!
That's why I always buy the official OEM service manual for all my cars. Like Eric O always says, "sometimes you gonna got slow to go fast". I always read the appropriate section in my OEM service manual to make sure that I have somewhat of an understanding on how that subsection operates. I'm not a mechanic so I really need to familiarize myself with how these systems work or else I might be attacking the problem from the wrong perspective. This video teaches you that important fact. Nice Saturday video.
But like I mention in the video, NO WHERE in the OE info will it tell you this :) that is why it can be so bad for a guy following the OE info and then getting burned!
This isn't in the OEM manual for this vehicle. Plus there is a LOT of wrong information even from the OEMs and they usually refuse to correct it once published.
As a DIYer, that manual is the best I can come by to learn as much as I can about my specific vehicle. I do realize that this specific info is not in the manual. That's why it's important to watch SMA. For most other issues, the manual has helped me greatly. Is it perfect? No. But it's better than Haynes and Chiltons.
Great tech tip about criscrossing the harness and the sensor connectors! I live in Southern California, so watching the tips on how to remove corroded parts adds to the learning! Keep up the good work!
Learn something new every day with SMA ! I understand the "theory of operation" of inductive and Hall effect speed sensors. I had heard of magnetoresistive sensor but never researched them enough to understand them. You need Ivan to do a white board talk on their "theory of operation", but in short, they give a more consistent signal from very low speed up to very high speed. There is no "active" element in the sensor (like a Hall effect) so they are inexpensive (or should be), but they are "active" in the sense, as you showed, power must be applied.
IMO People get lost in their diags needing to know the science behind it. I have never found that helped me at the end of the day other than wasting brain space. Sure I could get out my Bosch Engineering book and see 100% how it works but the end result is the same. I believe it is easier to just keep it simple. What signal is supposed to be there, and if it is not there, why? Make sense?
Eric, you are correct. Knowing the physics of how the sensor works and how it is used in an electronic circuit will not help someone diagnose the circuit, but it explained to me why 10V was being applied to the sensor and even why it is turned off when an error is detected. (𝐼𝑓 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑠𝑞𝑢𝑖𝑛𝑡 ℎ𝑎𝑟𝑑 𝑎𝑡 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑒𝑙𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑟𝑖𝑐𝑎𝑙 𝑐𝑖𝑟𝑐𝑢𝑖𝑡, 𝑖𝑡 𝑙𝑜𝑜𝑘𝑠 𝑎 𝑙𝑜𝑡 𝑙𝑖𝑘𝑒 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑐𝑜𝑜𝑙𝑎𝑛𝑡 𝑡𝑒𝑚𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑎𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑒 𝑠𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑜𝑟 𝑐𝑖𝑟𝑐𝑢𝑖𝑡. 𝑇ℎ𝑒𝑟𝑚𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑜𝑟 𝑎𝑛𝑑 𝑚𝑎𝑔𝑛𝑒𝑡𝑜𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑖𝑣𝑒 𝑠𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑜𝑟𝑠 𝑏𝑜𝑡ℎ 𝑐ℎ𝑎𝑛𝑔𝑒 𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑐𝑒, 𝑜𝑛𝑒 𝑟𝑒𝑙𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑑 𝑡𝑜 ℎ𝑒𝑎𝑡 𝑎𝑛𝑑 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑜𝑡ℎ𝑒𝑟 𝑟𝑒𝑙𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑑 𝑡𝑜 𝑎 𝑚𝑎𝑔𝑛𝑒𝑡𝑖𝑐 𝑓𝑖𝑒𝑙𝑑.) How did you learn that detail about the supplied voltage if it is not in any of the service guides ? My Version of the Bosch Automotive Engineering Handbook has to be almost 40 years old !
I may have come up with an easy way to get speed sensor remnants out. Not sure if this will be eric approved...but...if you know the sensor is stuck and are replacing it anyway, just break the head off, heat the plastic still in the hole, screw a (not too long) self tapping screw in there and use long needle nose pliers to pry it out. Use leverage to your advantage. Works every time! Yes, I used a propane torch , the screw starts very easily in soft plastic...
Nice to see how efficiently you verify the diagnosis, and the way you don't waste time, you drill out the broken part. I would have wasted a whole day on that repair.....
Good tips on what to expect during a function test. Really good information on how to get the old sensor out.... in pieces. It could take someone hours, not knowing that you have to get brutal with it due to corrosion where you can't see it. Real world stuff!
Little tip: Measuring across the sensor is fine for circuit checking, but it´s easier to see the waveform if you measure from a battery plus to sensor plus. U don´t have to zoom as much.
Using your Autel scope again, thought you gave that to your brother, good video I dont get to use my Autel Scope as much as I would like, its good to someone else using one, Keep up the good work Mr.O
For me (and I think not only for me) you are Eric Top of the Top car specialist on YT. I learn sooooo much from your videos, which are also entertaining :) Great, great work!
Experience taught you the computer shuts off the bad one. I am very glad to learn from your experience. Sucks when ya get a sensor that’s embedded in the bearing housing. Waste of a functioning bearing. Thanks again Eric
Thanks for the info. That info is worth a lot of money if you think about it. If people like myself use the info you provide them go to patron website and give a little to help you continue to make these types of vids.
Blimey - she must have caught a dose of man-flu! :D Seriously though, I hope she gets better shortly. On a side note, do you see many Jaguar cars over there?
Eric, look into Cor-Ban 27L. We use it on airliners to prevent corrosion of the hardware and such. Be warned that the stuff is extremely nasty, and you must use gloves with it, but it works awesome
Funny enough, I have the same issue on my 2010 Mazda 3 GT Sport 2.5i sedan and had it diagnosed last Tuesday by my guys at the shop I work at. Turns out it's the drivers side wheel speed sensor. Getting it repaired this coming Tuesday and I have the same symptoms with the ABS and Traction Control being disabled. But it also had the adverse effect of disabling my cruise control as well. Not sure if it caused the same issue on this car but that's what happened to mine.
nother of dem fine fords with all dem sofissakated diageenostee procedires.... been a ford week in my shop ....damn .... too much fun for me , just one left to finish
Hmm ... that Maxiscope might be my ticket to acquiring a scope for much less than I had planned! I can deal with glitches - everything I own that's electronic is glitchy, including the truck! 😂 Great vid, btw! 👍 Haven't seen any '08's here yet - seems my entire town has bought '03 Sables & Tauruses, lol. I had 3 customers with the same color, too! Not many left now - they're all rotting into the boneyard, one by one. My neighbor entered his in the demo derby at the local fair this year. When we stripped all the plastic off it in preparation, it revealed how cheaply made these cars are. Hard to believe they hide all that crap metal under plastic, and get close to $30 LARGE for them. Not one of FoMoCo's finest engineering examples. I see the '08's are rusting just as quick there ... Did a compressor pulley bearing this morning for my buddy's son - '04 Grand Cherokee. I wanted to go to a warbird air show today, but gotta take care of my buddies (We'll catch the show in Glens Falls NY - no biggie). Took me 2 hours because my snap ring pliers are 20 years old. Talk about FRUSTRATING!! Clip kept slipping off - flew down underneath the electric fan 5 or 6 times when installing it, too! Shopping for new tips now, lol. Chrysler compressor is a much better design than GM ones though - didn't even need a puller Would've SUCKED trying to get a puller in there without yanking that fan assembly. Old one was WASTED. Was just about to start spitting bearings out, lol. The grease stunk bad! 162k miles, OE. His son took it home as a souvenir. 😊 Yesterday I had to do a right lower ball joint on the trusty '86 Grand Marquis - time for a sticker. I got slid on the play at first - felt like a wheel bearing ... but I saw zero movement between the rotor and knuckle. Had my wife shake the wheel, but she didn't have the arm strength to make it click. Thought I saw a little movement in the pitman arm and right outer tie rod end. Had a Moog pitman arm laying around here for the past 10 years, so I threw that in, then had the wifey run to Advance for a Moog rod end. Parts cannon! Didn't fix the problem! Had no play whatsoever at 6 & 12, prybar or by hand, loaded or unloaded - same with 3 & 6. Only had play at 2 & 8! Had my neighbor come over to shake the wheel - barely saw the play in the lower bj, but then I noticed the recessed nipple on the bottom. Bingo. Ended up being the lower ball joint. First time in 25 years I've ever seen one fail that way. The boot had a TINY tear in it, which explained the brief squirt of water the past 3 years when greasing. Turned my red Amsoil grease pink! Must've got just enough grit in there to finish it off. Was a NAPA ball joint. Only 5 years/50k miles on that one. The other 3 are NAPA ones I installed in '05 - roughly 170k on those, and all still good! Good stuff right there. 😎 I switched to the blue Amsoil waterproof grease in case that happens again - might buy me a few months. 😁
Hmmm interesting. I use valvoline multi purpose red grease for general service stuff. I use the red and tacky here at home on equipment. I think you will be happy with the Autel Scope TBH. It use to be reallllly bad but they finally came out with an update so it is not as bad. I loaded the software on my lap top and I think that is easier to use than the tablet but for the money it is ok. Just saving the files sucks and I do not believe you can invert a channel and that can be annoying...
Good practice for abs repair is to talk to customer if brake repair has been done recently Some mechanics slap a rotor on not checking for proper chopper wheel spacing if you do that it will generate a code the sensor will test ok some trouble shoot computer generated repair will have you change the computer
I’ve run into that with bulbs on fords too. Must at least cycle ignition even after repair just to get the stupid computer to activate the circuit again
How has the software come along on the maxiscope? Thought about getting one for a backup to my Pico and retiring the OTC 3840f. I just picked up a surface pro and I’m going to see if I can make a case to mount the Pico to the back of it. I was gonna get the Acer like Ivan since I knew for sure it would work but the larger screen of the surface pro was too enticing. It’s a dream to use with the Pro and the surface pen and now it’s just as portable as any other scope. Plus, the battery life of that thing is awesome.
Another golden nugget video from "Self Made Otto Reaper". Sorry bout that, I know its hard to pronounce rigth without sounding stupid hehe :-) However I missed Mrs O coming in to interrupt you, hope she is getting better from the flue. All the best !
Dam that was a pain to remove :-( i wonder if something like a wood screw welded to an old T-bar might help extraction. That signal amplitude was very weak, i'm supprised it does not gain extra noise on the way to the computer.
I absolutely despise the Ford speed sensors. I have never been able to remove one intact... the complete opposite compared to GM, let's say. Good tip with the ABS module shutting the power/signal to the sensor down in some cases.
@@jeremyanthony9300 Every vehicle & make has its issues, no one vehicle has ever been great IMO. Generally Fords are alright, especially if maintained, but I suppose same goes for many other makes.
what is your opinion on the autel scope? I have the elite and i love it, was wondering if the scope was worth it or should i just save for the pico? I really just need all the test leads for a pico, the shop has one for diagnosing vibration it just doesn't have the leads for the electrical diagnosing,
OH MAN, if you have the option of a Pico do not even look at the Autel. Get a hold of AES WAVE (Link in description box) and order your leads. IMO That is the best place to get them. Just call them if you need help. They can make you a custom set too.
Eric Couldn't you just disconnect the sensor and connect your scope to the sensor to see if it generate a voltage? Or because of their design, you need to have the sensor connected when testing? Thanks
so if you dont have a scope or a scan tool that can tell you if its reading the speed sensor you can test the plug by using a multimeter in the ohms setting? what is the range of ohms that the sensor is good or bad? i was wondering if there was a way to test a speed/wheel sensor to determine which one is bad when the abs light comes on the dash?
Could you use aluminum anti-seize on it instead of fluid film without adversely affecting the sensor? Or is fluid film enough to keep from having to break it off next time?
I paid the NAPA machine shop to press two new wheel bearings in a set of spindles and they smashed and damaged both tone rings. Talking about a headache to figure out.
Another greatly helpful video from SMA... Recommendation: Use "left-hand" drill bits for such, as well as when drilling out broken bolts as many times they will draw out the broken sensor/bolt without further efforts. Of course, remember to use a "reversible drill" with left-hand drill bits folks. Lastly, to the one thumb down schmuck, get a life or at least stay off the channel you dolt.
*Autel MP408-Basic MaxiScope Basic Kit: amzn.to/2DnCMRs
*Autel Maxisys MS906 Automotive Diagnostic Scanner : amzn.to/2QQSnLZ
I have an Autel Maxiscope on trial from my local parts supplier. So far doesn't seem a bad scope for the money. I use it on PC and my Maxisys 908 pro. The only drawback I have seen is that you have to manually input scope settings, which isn't a big deal. I have an Snap on Modis which has a scope too but I am thinking of replacing it because of a dim screen. You should contact Autel and offer a training vid on the Maxiscope. I haven't seen any worth watching yet and maybe they would pay some decent bucks for one! I would surely watch! Thanks for your vids!
Today is the day I will find this helpful. In the back of my mind, I remembered something about Ford shutting the sensor down when they throw a code. Thank you Eric, you are an amazing and gifted mechanic and teacher.
Best mechanic on UA-cam
I am a shade tree guy who works on his own stuff. I thought I was good at working on cars until I watched some of Eric's videos. The difference between myself and a professional is amazing. I learn more with every video.
My tool collection has improved immensely. And it's not exclusive automotive tools but just tools that would be useful around the house.
I love that this information will be on UA-cam when someone needs it. Great job explaining the process.
Finally got my alternator fixed Key off draw went from 4A to ,04A thanks something you taught me. Thanks Eric.
ck. out flir ten seconds to find problem
still amazes me the old ones rarely did that and when they did you sure knew it, from the large smoke signals and burnt fusible wire or links >_>
sometimes they'd just kill an already weak battery, bu that's likely why it failed to start with....
I have cleaned a couple of speed sensors and they started working again. Not all of them go completely dead. Great Video. Thumbs Up.
Another most interesting and informative video. Thank you so much for taking the time to do these. If it ever gets too cold for you up there come on down to SW Florida. No rust down here and I will be your best customer!
This is handy! Got 2 busted ABS Sensors in the front of my Exploder. I broke one, the other one looks like it's been broke for years. When I'm able to again, I'd like to switch them out and weirdly enough, I was thinking earlier about how I should look up how to do it. And WAM Eric O came to the rescue! You da man!
Not all Ford wheel speed sensors are magnetoresistive. I am pretty sure mine on my old E150 are just inductive. The second important take away from this video is that on this system you have to clear the code to get it to "power up" the new sensor. If not, it will still be "dead".
I have access to a scanner to clear ABS codes :) But I'm lazy and put things off so I probably won't get to it for a few more months. I honestly may never do it lol. The only code it had was a RF Wheel speed sensor code. And now since I broke the LF one, it has both of them. I have no idea what the magnetoresistive or inductive means. Maybe have to google later, I love learning new things. Thanks for your input Jack
Awesome work. I have a test car in the workshop for everyone to play with...think it has active sensors. I'll go play with the UScope n see how I go.
Thank you again.
Only found you about a week ago, but you're my favorite mechanic to watch now. Also, seeing all those rusty, salty undercarriages reminds me of home haha. I'm from Milford, CT and live in Phoenix now. Phoenix is much friendlier to cars!
"If you weren't aware" every time you say that I learn something.
Very good info. Glad you guys haven't floated away.
We are 2000' above sea level in NY...
Aye the Autel Scope is out and the Verus is on the bench 😱😱😱 I cant believe you're using it. You must have been in a good mood that day. Eric come on every thing you teach us is useful!
Clear the codes before testing, test, good to go. Thanks Dr. O!
That's why I always buy the official OEM service manual for all my cars. Like Eric O always says, "sometimes you gonna got slow to go fast". I always read the appropriate section in my OEM service manual to make sure that I have somewhat of an understanding on how that subsection operates. I'm not a mechanic so I really need to familiarize myself with how these systems work or else I might be attacking the problem from the wrong perspective. This video teaches you that important fact. Nice Saturday video.
But like I mention in the video, NO WHERE in the OE info will it tell you this :) that is why it can be so bad for a guy following the OE info and then getting burned!
This isn't in the OEM manual for this vehicle. Plus there is a LOT of wrong information even from the OEMs and they usually refuse to correct it once published.
As a DIYer, that manual is the best I can come by to learn as much as I can about my specific vehicle. I do realize that this specific info is not in the manual. That's why it's important to watch SMA. For most other issues, the manual has helped me greatly. Is it perfect? No. But it's better than Haynes and Chiltons.
Great tech tip about criscrossing the harness and the sensor connectors! I live in Southern California, so watching the tips on how to remove corroded parts adds to the learning!
Keep up the good work!
Learn something new every day with SMA ! I understand the "theory of operation" of inductive and Hall effect speed sensors. I had heard of magnetoresistive sensor but never researched them enough to understand them. You need Ivan to do a white board talk on their "theory of operation", but in short, they give a more consistent signal from very low speed up to very high speed. There is no "active" element in the sensor (like a Hall effect) so they are inexpensive (or should be), but they are "active" in the sense, as you showed, power must be applied.
IMO People get lost in their diags needing to know the science behind it. I have never found that helped me at the end of the day other than wasting brain space. Sure I could get out my Bosch Engineering book and see 100% how it works but the end result is the same. I believe it is easier to just keep it simple. What signal is supposed to be there, and if it is not there, why? Make sense?
Eric, you are correct. Knowing the physics of how the sensor works and how it is used in an electronic circuit will not help someone diagnose the circuit, but it explained to me why 10V was being applied to the sensor and even why it is turned off when an error is detected. (𝐼𝑓 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑠𝑞𝑢𝑖𝑛𝑡 ℎ𝑎𝑟𝑑 𝑎𝑡 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑒𝑙𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑟𝑖𝑐𝑎𝑙 𝑐𝑖𝑟𝑐𝑢𝑖𝑡, 𝑖𝑡 𝑙𝑜𝑜𝑘𝑠 𝑎 𝑙𝑜𝑡 𝑙𝑖𝑘𝑒 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑐𝑜𝑜𝑙𝑎𝑛𝑡 𝑡𝑒𝑚𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑎𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑒 𝑠𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑜𝑟 𝑐𝑖𝑟𝑐𝑢𝑖𝑡. 𝑇ℎ𝑒𝑟𝑚𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑜𝑟 𝑎𝑛𝑑 𝑚𝑎𝑔𝑛𝑒𝑡𝑜𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑖𝑣𝑒 𝑠𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑜𝑟𝑠 𝑏𝑜𝑡ℎ 𝑐ℎ𝑎𝑛𝑔𝑒 𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑐𝑒, 𝑜𝑛𝑒 𝑟𝑒𝑙𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑑 𝑡𝑜 ℎ𝑒𝑎𝑡 𝑎𝑛𝑑 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑜𝑡ℎ𝑒𝑟 𝑟𝑒𝑙𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑑 𝑡𝑜 𝑎 𝑚𝑎𝑔𝑛𝑒𝑡𝑖𝑐 𝑓𝑖𝑒𝑙𝑑.)
How did you learn that detail about the supplied voltage if it is not in any of the service guides ?
My Version of the Bosch Automotive Engineering Handbook has to be almost 40 years old !
BTW, an extra thanks for making me use my brain ! It needs all the exercise it can get !
I always find your tips helpful.
When I grow up I wanna be just like you... Big Homie Eric 👊🏼
Oh come on Homie! 😂
I may have come up with an easy way to get speed sensor remnants out. Not sure if this will be eric approved...but...if you know the sensor is stuck and are replacing it anyway, just break the head off, heat the plastic still in the hole, screw a (not too long) self tapping screw in there and use long needle nose pliers to pry it out. Use leverage to your advantage. Works every time! Yes, I used a propane torch , the screw starts very easily in soft plastic...
Nice to see how efficiently you verify the diagnosis, and the way you don't waste time, you drill out the broken part. I would have wasted a whole day on that repair.....
Good tips on what to expect during a function test. Really good information on how to get the old sensor out.... in pieces. It could take someone hours, not knowing that you have to get brutal with it due to corrosion where you can't see it. Real world stuff!
Thanks Mr. "0", very helpful for us DIY'er's.
Your videos are really informative. Trying to watch every video.Thanks for taking time to put them out.
Yay another sma vid. I was hoping I would get one!
going down the diagnostic rabbit hole, my specialty.
thanks for the tip Eric.
Little tip: Measuring across the sensor is fine for circuit checking, but it´s easier to see the waveform if you measure from a battery plus to sensor plus. U don´t have to zoom as much.
Using your Autel scope again, thought you gave that to your brother, good video I dont get to use my Autel Scope as much as I would like, its good to someone else using one, Keep up the good work Mr.O
Very informative video. Thanks for putting so much time to show the actual diagnosis.
For me (and I think not only for me) you are Eric Top of the Top car specialist on YT. I learn sooooo much from your videos, which are also entertaining :) Great, great work!
Not a single down vote. The people love you dude. That says a lot.
Cody Munday...nope!! Got a thumbs down at this point!! Maybe they put the bong down long enough to hit the thumbs down button!!
@@roadkill5333 oh that's cold!
Nice job Eric O. Thanks for being so informative.
Experience taught you the computer shuts off the bad one. I am very glad to learn from your experience. Sucks when ya get a sensor that’s embedded in the bearing housing. Waste of a functioning bearing. Thanks again Eric
Thank you Eric. Good job. I appreciate your videos.
Good show on a Saturday got love sma
Eric,
Great video and fix - thank you!
SMA#1
God bless
Paul
thank for sharing that info
great video Eric.
Thanks for the info. That info is worth a lot of money if you think about it. If people like myself use the info you provide them go to patron website and give a little to help you continue to make these types of vids.
It's always something with those damn Ford's
Those damn Ford's what...
Another nice fix Eric, and another great video. Hope Mrs O is feeling better?
a little better not 100% yet
Blimey - she must have caught a dose of man-flu! :D Seriously though, I hope she gets better shortly.
On a side note, do you see many Jaguar cars over there?
Good advice , nice one ! Eric O .
Eric, look into Cor-Ban 27L. We use it on airliners to prevent corrosion of the hardware and such. Be warned that the stuff is extremely nasty, and you must use gloves with it, but it works awesome
Sir! You are a work machine! Impressive!
Excellent tips!! Thank you Eric!
You definitely should be teaching Classes’s
Eric teaches at YTU :-)
Good video Eric
An end mill would work pretty well in that situation I'd bet. Thanks for the video.
Funny enough, I have the same issue on my 2010 Mazda 3 GT Sport 2.5i sedan and had it diagnosed last Tuesday by my guys at the shop I work at. Turns out it's the drivers side wheel speed sensor. Getting it repaired this coming Tuesday and I have the same symptoms with the ABS and Traction Control being disabled. But it also had the adverse effect of disabling my cruise control as well. Not sure if it caused the same issue on this car but that's what happened to mine.
Great video Eric O @South Main auto
Eric, nice video!!
If we only had a garage like this down here in pa
Great video.
Good To know!
Great as always!
Eric-this week we stopped buying dlr priced piggy mat-absorbent mat from Grainger (thicker, white in color)is a lot cheaper.
nother of dem fine fords with all dem sofissakated diageenostee procedires.... been a ford week in my shop ....damn .... too much fun for me , just one left to finish
Your the Man.
Great video as always
Great job A+
The master at work thanks for sharing!
Love your video's
Interesting testing criteria to know. I almost want to say thanks but that would be to nice of me Eric. haha
Your not welcome then?
Awesome job 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Hmm ... that Maxiscope might be my ticket to acquiring a scope for much less than I had planned! I can deal with glitches - everything I own that's electronic is glitchy, including the truck! 😂 Great vid, btw! 👍
Haven't seen any '08's here yet - seems my entire town has bought '03 Sables & Tauruses, lol. I had 3 customers with the same color, too! Not many left now - they're all rotting into the boneyard, one by one. My neighbor entered his in the demo derby at the local fair this year. When we stripped all the plastic off it in preparation, it revealed how cheaply made these cars are. Hard to believe they hide all that crap metal under plastic, and get close to $30 LARGE for them. Not one of FoMoCo's finest engineering examples. I see the '08's are rusting just as quick there ...
Did a compressor pulley bearing this morning for my buddy's son - '04 Grand Cherokee. I wanted to go to a warbird air show today, but gotta take care of my buddies (We'll catch the show in Glens Falls NY - no biggie). Took me 2 hours because my snap ring pliers are 20 years old. Talk about FRUSTRATING!! Clip kept slipping off - flew down underneath the electric fan 5 or 6 times when installing it, too! Shopping for new tips now, lol. Chrysler compressor is a much better design than GM ones though - didn't even need a puller Would've SUCKED trying to get a puller in there without yanking that fan assembly. Old one was WASTED. Was just about to start spitting bearings out, lol. The grease stunk bad! 162k miles, OE. His son took it home as a souvenir. 😊
Yesterday I had to do a right lower ball joint on the trusty '86 Grand Marquis - time for a sticker. I got slid on the play at first - felt like a wheel bearing ... but I saw zero movement between the rotor and knuckle. Had my wife shake the wheel, but she didn't have the arm strength to make it click. Thought I saw a little movement in the pitman arm and right outer tie rod end. Had a Moog pitman arm laying around here for the past 10 years, so I threw that in, then had the wifey run to Advance for a Moog rod end. Parts cannon! Didn't fix the problem! Had no play whatsoever at 6 & 12, prybar or by hand, loaded or unloaded - same with 3 & 6. Only had play at 2 & 8! Had my neighbor come over to shake the wheel - barely saw the play in the lower bj, but then I noticed the recessed nipple on the bottom. Bingo. Ended up being the lower ball joint. First time in 25 years I've ever seen one fail that way. The boot had a TINY tear in it, which explained the brief squirt of water the past 3 years when greasing. Turned my red Amsoil grease pink! Must've got just enough grit in there to finish it off. Was a NAPA ball joint. Only 5 years/50k miles on that one. The other 3 are NAPA ones I installed in '05 - roughly 170k on those, and all still good! Good stuff right there. 😎 I switched to the blue Amsoil waterproof grease in case that happens again - might buy me a few months. 😁
Hmmm interesting. I use valvoline multi purpose red grease for general service stuff. I use the red and tacky here at home on equipment. I think you will be happy with the Autel Scope TBH. It use to be reallllly bad but they finally came out with an update so it is not as bad. I loaded the software on my lap top and I think that is easier to use than the tablet but for the money it is ok. Just saving the files sucks and I do not believe you can invert a channel and that can be annoying...
Ahh, I gotcha. I suppose I can deal with the quirks until the funds are available for a nice 4-channel Pico. Thanks for the insight! 🍻
Eric is what's up wed. A thing of the past? Haven't seen one in a long time.
Nice video!!
I will use that to fix my sons 2005 jeep.
A little brass wire brush with some grease will clean up the hole where the sensor is mounted.
Good practice for abs repair is to talk to customer if brake repair has been done recently
Some mechanics slap a rotor on not checking for proper chopper wheel spacing if you do that it will generate a code the sensor will test ok some trouble shoot computer generated repair will have you change the computer
Do you think that the reason the ABS module shuts the circuit down, is in case of a short, and save the computer? GREAT information on this vid!
I’ve run into that with bulbs on fords too. Must at least cycle ignition even after repair just to get the stupid computer to activate the circuit again
hmmm the circuit shuts down when code sets.....good tip!
How has the software come along on the maxiscope? Thought about getting one for a backup to my Pico and retiring the OTC 3840f. I just picked up a surface pro and I’m going to see if I can make a case to mount the Pico to the back of it. I was gonna get the Acer like Ivan since I knew for sure it would work but the larger screen of the surface pro was too enticing. It’s a dream to use with the Pro and the surface pen and now it’s just as portable as any other scope. Plus, the battery life of that thing is awesome.
Still glitchy as ever... but ok 5 out of 10
Not a Pico fan in general, but their software kicks butt compared to everything else out there !
So do you think the corrosion crushes the sensor and that’s why it failed nice video good information
Another golden nugget video from "Self Made Otto Reaper".
Sorry bout that, I know its hard to pronounce rigth without sounding stupid hehe :-)
However I missed Mrs O coming in to interrupt you, hope she is getting better from the flue.
All the best !
good thing to know funny how they leave that stuff out of the manuals
Dam that was a pain to remove :-( i wonder if something like a wood screw welded to an old T-bar might help extraction.
That signal amplitude was very weak, i'm supprised it does not gain extra noise on the way to the computer.
I absolutely despise the Ford speed sensors. I have never been able to remove one intact... the complete opposite compared to GM, let's say.
Good tip with the ABS module shutting the power/signal to the sensor down in some cases.
Yeah it's always something with Ford's
@@jeremyanthony9300 Every vehicle & make has its issues, no one vehicle has ever been great IMO. Generally Fords are alright, especially if maintained, but I suppose same goes for many other makes.
@@CubasAutomotive think so. Did you ever do the sparkplugs on that sable you have?
@@jeremyanthony9300 nope, not yet. It's been in use, but I did have to replace the tires. Plus had other calls, keeping me from my own maintenance.
@@CubasAutomotive you always seem like a busy woman.that goes to show that you are a hard worker.
Thank you mr o
what is your opinion on the autel scope? I have the elite and i love it, was wondering if the scope was worth it or should i just save for the pico? I really just need all the test leads for a pico, the shop has one for diagnosing vibration it just doesn't have the leads for the electrical diagnosing,
OH MAN, if you have the option of a Pico do not even look at the Autel. Get a hold of AES WAVE (Link in description box) and order your leads. IMO That is the best place to get them. Just call them if you need help. They can make you a custom set too.
What are your thoughts on the autel scope? Is it a decent entry level scope for a beginner?
Yes it is a good entry level scope but is very glitchy...
Thanks for the reply..always learn something from your videos
Why did you switch to the Autel scope from the Pico? I see a lot of negative reviews on the Autel scope.
It is just the last one I had out because my laptop was dead...
Would it help to look at the signal by AC coupling the scope and go on a smaller scale?
Yes that would work also.
Eric
Couldn't you just disconnect the sensor and connect your scope to the sensor to see if it generate a voltage? Or because of their design, you need to have the sensor connected when testing? Thanks
so if you dont have a scope or a scan tool that can tell you if its reading the speed sensor you can test the plug by using a multimeter in the ohms setting? what is the range of ohms that the sensor is good or bad? i was wondering if there was a way to test a speed/wheel sensor to determine which one is bad when the abs light comes on the dash?
Changed the bearing hub and the sensor on a 2016 fusion, when testing the voltage was normal but the voltage drops quickly. Any thoughts
Could you use aluminum anti-seize on it instead of fluid film without adversely affecting the sensor? Or is fluid film enough to keep from having to break it off next time?
I have a ABS problem, one of the speed sensor are not receiving voltage, what i can do/test?
Boom!
Wicked weather in Houston today.Settle in with an SMA video,, Nice!
I paid the NAPA machine shop to press two new wheel bearings in a set of spindles and they smashed and damaged both tone rings. Talking about a headache to figure out.
you fix it
Any news on the play button? ▶️
Video coming soon 😬
Niiiiiice!
Well deserved sir! I am sure the 1M viewer mark ain't that far.
Kept thinking, he needs a Dremel with a small wire wheel to get up in that hole.......
Eric please take a seat & relax, now, can you tell me why you're torn between Aluminum & Aluminium? Take your time... 😊
Another greatly helpful video from SMA... Recommendation: Use "left-hand" drill bits for such, as well as when drilling out broken bolts as many times they will draw out the broken sensor/bolt without further efforts. Of course, remember to use a "reversible drill" with left-hand drill bits folks. Lastly, to the one thumb down schmuck, get a life or at least stay off the channel you dolt.
Where do u buy ur heat shrink
How do you say that ? That one's a little "crusty" underneath.
What autel did you use