great progress!!! keeping the electrode turning may help keep it flat on the bottom but also may make it some other shape. From the research I've read arc vs spark has a big impact on electrode wear. Maybe you can get a capacitor/inductor combo to help control the on/off time and get more sparks vs arcs?
Interesting project... What if you were able to adjust the voltage and amperage of the arc and the lift magnate independently? Also, the electrode has a blunt tip unlike the electrode of a TIG welder which is tapered to a sharp point. The sharp tapered tip causes the spark to be more concentrated which would erode a thinner line while the flat tip makes a spark which is a lot more spread out meaning a wider and more "fuzzy" line. It is going to be interesting to see where this project leads.
That's what I called "active control" at the end of the previous video. I am currently experimenting with DC motors converted to a Wagner Hammer, (without electronics) which works really well. After that I will start adding electronics to the system. I have used a tungsten tip in the previous video. That tip became blunt relatively quickly. Consider I am engraving 0.2mm lines and that works well with the wire (no need to resharpen your electrode). More experiments are carried out in coming videos - stay tuned!
I see, you have watched my previous video to the end: ua-cam.com/video/rS5600spxEQ/v-deo.html ;-) The Hammer I am working on is using a guide at the tip. Stay tuned!
great progress!!! keeping the electrode turning may help keep it flat on the bottom but also may make it some other shape. From the research I've read arc vs spark has a big impact on electrode wear. Maybe you can get a capacitor/inductor combo to help control the on/off time and get more sparks vs arcs?
That's when active control will enter my series. This is just a circuit controlled by the circuit itself. Dead simple and works quite well.
Interesting project...
What if you were able to adjust the voltage and amperage of the arc and the lift magnate independently?
Also, the electrode has a blunt tip unlike the electrode of a TIG welder which is tapered to a sharp point.
The sharp tapered tip causes the spark to be more concentrated which would erode a thinner line while the flat tip makes a spark which is a lot more spread out meaning a wider and more "fuzzy" line.
It is going to be interesting to see where this project leads.
That's what I called "active control" at the end of the previous video. I am currently experimenting with DC motors converted to a Wagner Hammer, (without electronics) which works really well. After that I will start adding electronics to the system.
I have used a tungsten tip in the previous video. That tip became blunt relatively quickly. Consider I am engraving 0.2mm lines and that works well with the wire (no need to resharpen your electrode).
More experiments are carried out in coming videos - stay tuned!
You might want to try using a 3d printer nozzle as a wire guide at the tip.
It might help for the smaller diameter wires.
I see, you have watched my previous video to the end: ua-cam.com/video/rS5600spxEQ/v-deo.html
;-)
The Hammer I am working on is using a guide at the tip. Stay tuned!
Are you going to cover jet ecm in jour edm series?
That's not on my list, yet, but that list isn't carved in stone.
Cool
No. Hot enough to melt steel. :-)
Ein Draht ist "wound" wie der Wau Wau, Eine Wunde "wound" ist wie das Huhn.
Hessisch Englisch halt. Kannst am besde gleisch hier gugge: ua-cam.com/video/Qv2wbjd-yiA/v-deo.html
;-)