In contrast to classic extruders used for injection molding, color mixing won't be that uniform in my short extruder, but maybe I am wrong on that. Future experimentation will tell...
Danke, geht aber noch deutlich stabiler - ich arbeite daran. Meine ersten Filament 3D-Drucker waren auch nicht besser, aber wenn man willens ist, in die Materie einzutauchen, kann man Schritt für Schritt mehr aus einem Drucker rausholen, Und außerdem: zum Bau von neuen Maschinen oder Roboter, muss es nicht unbedingt Top aussehen, sondern lediglich funktionieren.
I think an injection molding screw design (with a check ring and a thrust ring) might be worth exploring here. Suppose that one would make a smart slicer plugin to produce g-code that is split in discrete movements, so that the plunging action gets in sync with the required extrusion flow. Maybe it could make retraction more reliable? It 'll probably produce artifacts, increase print time, and require a slightly larger screw though. Not sure.
We are back to the point: The software guy must fix a generally not so good design ;-) My extruder works already well, even without having to tune the software side (however, something that will follow). Retraction works in general, fine tuning will follow. Stay tuned!
Wood screws that work are cheaper and more easy to source. ACME screws of diameters 5mm and smaller are not that common, at least here in Germany? At some point of development I will (must) create own, special auger screws. However I will convert a 3D printer into an EDM or ECM machine, first. Stay tuned!
Obviously the wood screws work in my small extruder, don't they? As often told in my series on my type of granule extruder and demonstrated more than once in this video: The working principle is different. No pressure gradient and so no long auger with super complex geometry needed.
Not much, yet. Mostly I tried to get a reliable, constant extrusion with this setup. Fine tuning by software parameters only makes sense on a more sturdy extruder, otherwise the results won't be reproducible.
@@HomoFaciens that makes sense. As a fun side experiment try some lubricant in the plastic path. I have an oiler in one of my 0.2mm nozzle printer. Makes it a lot more reliable, gets rid of the fluff collected on the filament,and lubricates the nozzle. I use 3in1 oil.
I will for sure do some experimentation with additives some later. Mainly when printing with solid particles like metal or minerals. Putting some oil in was on my mind, but not for plastics, until now. Thanks for your hint!
@@HomoFaciens compression screws have a thread that increases the pressure the further down the material goes. They are basically the only thing used in commercial pellet extruders and large scale industry extrusion. The extruders they use to make our filament for example use them.
So if you go for a traditional design, you get the traditional issues. Having a wood screw with a large gap between screw and nozzle allows the air and moisture to escape (amongst other benefits I will talk about in coming videos). Traditional extruders need a small to non existent gap to make the compression in the molten plastic part work.
Great work Sir. This also opens up the possibility of colour injection with powdered dyes and neutral coloured stock grains.
In contrast to classic extruders used for injection molding, color mixing won't be that uniform in my short extruder, but maybe I am wrong on that. Future experimentation will tell...
Dein Granulat extruder funktioniert einfach besser als mein fillament extruder lmao. Sieht bis jetzt echt stabil aus!
Danke, geht aber noch deutlich stabiler - ich arbeite daran.
Meine ersten Filament 3D-Drucker waren auch nicht besser, aber wenn man willens ist, in die Materie einzutauchen, kann man Schritt für Schritt mehr aus einem Drucker rausholen, Und außerdem: zum Bau von neuen Maschinen oder Roboter, muss es nicht unbedingt Top aussehen, sondern lediglich funktionieren.
Congratulations on your acquisition of the Prusa Mark IV ! 👍
Thanks! Assembly of the kit finished today. Before starting the conversion, I will do some test prints with the "normal" one.
@@HomoFaciens Keep us updated :D
Of course!
Congratulations !!!
I follow your channel here in Brazil and your creations inspire me
I think an injection molding screw design (with a check ring and a thrust ring) might be worth exploring here. Suppose that one would make a smart slicer plugin to produce g-code that is split in discrete movements, so that the plunging action gets in sync with the required extrusion flow. Maybe it could make retraction more reliable? It 'll probably produce artifacts, increase print time, and require a slightly larger screw though. Not sure.
We are back to the point: The software guy must fix a generally not so good design ;-)
My extruder works already well, even without having to tune the software side (however, something that will follow).
Retraction works in general, fine tuning will follow. Stay tuned!
Great videos as always
Progressing nicely :)
Would you be better with an acme thread? Had those on the old REP injection presses.
Wood screws that work are cheaper and more easy to source. ACME screws of diameters 5mm and smaller are not that common, at least here in Germany? At some point of development I will (must) create own, special auger screws. However I will convert a 3D printer into an EDM or ECM machine, first. Stay tuned!
i think for the extruder to work, the screw should have the le thread height gradually decrease. This the case for injector screws in large machines.
Obviously the wood screws work in my small extruder, don't they?
As often told in my series on my type of granule extruder and demonstrated more than once in this video: The working principle is different. No pressure gradient and so no long auger with super complex geometry needed.
@@HomoFaciens i've been putting off watching the series
Perhaps a diy heat pipe could replace the water cooling?
Version 5 will have a more compact water cooling design. Stay tuned!
Have you tried to play with any slicer settings yet?
Not much, yet. Mostly I tried to get a reliable, constant extrusion with this setup. Fine tuning by software parameters only makes sense on a more sturdy extruder, otherwise the results won't be reproducible.
@@HomoFaciens that makes sense. As a fun side experiment try some lubricant in the plastic path. I have an oiler in one of my 0.2mm nozzle printer. Makes it a lot more reliable, gets rid of the fluff collected on the filament,and lubricates the nozzle. I use 3in1 oil.
I will for sure do some experimentation with additives some later. Mainly when printing with solid particles like metal or minerals. Putting some oil in was on my mind, but not for plastics, until now. Thanks for your hint!
Can’t you get a small compression thread screw?
Would not be a really different design to the screws I am using, or am I wrong with that?
@@HomoFaciens compression screws have a thread that increases the pressure the further down the material goes. They are basically the only thing used in commercial pellet extruders and large scale industry extrusion. The extruders they use to make our filament for example use them.
So if you go for a traditional design, you get the traditional issues. Having a wood screw with a large gap between screw and nozzle allows the air and moisture to escape (amongst other benefits I will talk about in coming videos). Traditional extruders need a small to non existent gap to make the compression in the molten plastic part work.