I love my new 33 as well. It’s by far the smoothest drawing bow I’ve ever owned and I shot the Mathews,PSE and Bow Tech which were also all impressive. I love working on my own equipment and building arrows I believe it adds to your confidence when you know your equipment in that way. Great video. I went with the Bourbon and looks great.
👍👍 getting a bow to shoot like this is exactly why people need to learn how themselves. It’s all in the details. IMO, having confidence your equipment is as good as possible is so important. 👍👍
Great video!! Question, why did you only shim the top cam initially? It sounded like you ended up shimming both in the end, but just curious why it was initially only the top!
Can you cover your draw board on a video. How and what you used, as much info as possible. Love the looks of it, and it looks like you took the time to make it nice. Thanks!
The masterclass is awesome. Well done! Im curious, have you nock tuned those bareshafts prior to shooting them? Only reason i am asking is that nock tuning the bareshaft can have dramatic impact of bareshaft flight down range, which in turn could give you differing results regarding which way to shim cams/move rest. Hello from Australia !
Thank you! And yes, I don’t go super in depth with this process here, but what I like to do is shoot the full dozen shafts as bareshafts and turn nocks until they are all hitting consistent with each other before making adjustments. I find I get one or two each dozen that just don’t fly with the group for some reason. If your arrows are all already fletched, I’ll do this same process through paper, shooting each fletched shaft through paper at 6’ and turning nocks on any that are not getting a perfect tear. Lots of different ways to do this but these are my two favorite ways. Cheers!
So when you are doing your tuning with fletched arrows vs bare shaft is it important to have the weight arrows? I don't want to cut my fletching off my new arrows but I have older arrows (same spine) but lower weight, thanks for all the videos just did my first string change and you have been a big help appreciate it
Love your videos they have been super helpful to me as I’m getting into archery!! I just did some bare shaft tuning, and my arrows are hitting close together, but my bare shaft seems to be coming in an angle where the knock is low, so I did some research and I moved my rest down. is that the right way to go about it is to move the rest and not move the D loop or anything with the cams?!? I also paper tuned and it seemed to be close to a bullet hole after I move the rest down, I moved it down quite a bit, do you think that’s ok?? I don’t seem to have any clearance issues with my fletching, thanks so much for the help!!!!
Double check your cam sync if your getting vertical bareshaft flight that’s different from your fletched field points. It doesn’t take much for it to effect a bareshaft and strings/cables do stretch a bit after shooting and breaking them in.
Hi Josh! I have a question: If you would have no any budget limits what bow and set-up would you choose? I know you are more like Hoyt lover, but would you consider also other brands? PSE, Mathews, Bowtech, Bear? Maybe you could make a episode about your dream setup fro hunting, target shooting, 3D? 😉BTW: this episode is awsome and you make me consider to purchase master class ;) Greatings from Poland👍
Greetings! Although I’m always tinkering and testing new gear, I always feel like every bow set up I put together is exactly how I want it. I like testing new products and gear, but sometimes I just find products I want to stick with because they work so well and fit my needs perfectly. I’ve owned all of the bow brands you mentioned in the past and they are all great! You really can’t go wrong with whatever you choose, but right now I like Hoyt the best because I believe they make one of the best products on the market. Again, you can’t really go wrong, that’s just my personal preference.
Josh, Now that you are 4 months out, have you finalized your build with this bow, or are you still tinkering? I have the same bow (in Wilderness), and am interested in where you ended up with everything - stabilizers and weight, DL, arrow length, etc. Thanks. I have finished my 46" Husky cabinet with my LCA press, OMP vise, draw board, and arrow saw. . Now to finalize my bow build and build some accurate arrows. I have your master class and appreciate your great tutorials. Keep em coming.
@@TYB439 yes, I’ve finalized everything although some string/cable and serving troubles had me retuning it several times leading up to fall and hunting season. I ended up at 29” mods drawing right at 29”, 70lbs exactly, 460 grain 340 spine Easton axis 5mm 50 grain brass and 100 grain point cut 27” with left helical 3 fletch in AAE max stealth vanes. Getting roughly 290fps last I shot through the chronograph. Running a 12” front bar with 9oz on the front and a 10” back bar with 12oz. Holds and shoots like a dream.
@ the actual string and cables were fine, I just had issues with the servings on both. Had to replace my center serving and then both of the ends to my cable servings due to them coming undone, therefore changing the diameter of the cable in the track of the cams which threw off the cam synchronization. Once fixed, no issues since.
Thank you! It’s comparable, but depends where you are at in the draw length range. The mod position will make the feel of the draw vary. The closer to the low end of the mod and the easier and smoother it will draw. Closer to the high end and you’ll gain the most efficiency out of the cam to get the most speed.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Thank you. The bow build videos have answered a bunch of my questions. I am 29 inch draw on my ventum pro 30. Appreciate all the info you guys are sharing.
I’ve never had an issue. I just set the LCA bow fingers in the appropriate position. If replacing or swapping limbs, you do have to be very careful since you are pressing the limbs from a straight position to the flexed position they are in when the bow is at rest.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors okay! I have a LCA press and own a PSE bow and I haven’t yet pressed my bow since I don’t have a limb lock kit and PSE is considered a passed parallel limb bow, so was wondering what you guys did since you shoot Hoyt bows and they are also passed parallel limb bows.
Need some help! Picked up alpha x30. Shooting bullets thru paper but my sight scope housing is close to the riser my pin is almost cover to sight in at 20. Any advise would be appreciated
@@Briguy933 what is your center shot set at? This is caused from the rest being too far inside. Assuming you are right handed, set your rest back to the left close to 13/16” (understand that there is a range for center shot here) when you do this, you will then get a left tear through paper. To correct the left tear, instead of adjusting the rest to the right, shim your cams slightly to the left. Look at your top or bottom cam and see which one gives you the best natural adjustment. Example would be if your bottom cam has the thin spacer on the left but thicker spacer on the right but your top cam has your thicker spacer on the left and thinner spacer on the right, you’d want to swap your top spacers left to right and right to left to shim that cam to the left. If you’re left handed, the opposite adjustments to the rest and the cams apply. Hope this makes sense, let me know. Thanks - Josh
Good question! We did it mostly based off of the cam lean. Also always prefer to adjust the top first because the top cam is a bigger adjustment than the bottom cam when it comes to changing arrow flight. Once we did more fine tuning I did end up adjusting the bottom cam over just a bit.
No need to bareshaft tune at that point if your fletched arrow is already flying straight. Bareshaft is just another way to do it that can sometimes more easily show you the adjustments you need to make that may not be able to be seen from a paper tear alone. If you are a hunter, you will want to double check broadhead flight and make any very slight tweaks or adjustments needed.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors it was hard to tell, but your first tear looked pretty dead on. When you shot the bare shaft, the arrow was a lot more exaggerated. Even when you shot them side by side the fletched looked better than the bare shaft that’s why I was a bit confused.
This may be a dumb question. But when you say multiple mods is that within the th assembly that that comes with the bow or are there different mods that attach to the cam assembly with different configurations
@@MrMuypop there are different mods that attach to the cam for different draw length ranges to get more efficiency out of the cams and into the arrow. The ranges on this Alpha-X 33 are 26-27”, 27 1/4”-29” and 29 1/4”-31”.
It’s a step that I personally believe to be important, but not vital. You can check out my arrow build process here: ua-cam.com/video/dYW2107FD8M/v-deo.htmlsi=kaxh1QSGfWdOM9MU
Several factors can influence it outside of the cam position including arrow spine and also draw length. Draw length was where I wanted it, and I’ve ran the same specs with the same arrows for quite a few years with no issues so would rather not change bow poundage or adjust arrows to compensate. Good question 👍🏻
String and cables should be replaced at least every 2 years in my opinion and depending on how many arrows you’re shooting each session you should at least get a full year or two out of them. D-loop only needs replaced as you see wear. Should last the life of the string if using proper d-loop material and don’t have a burr on your release.
Depends how much weight you have at the front of your arrow with your insert and point weight. You could get away with a 400 spine if you cut the arrow to 28.5" and used a 20 grain insert and 100 grain point. If you wanted to use a heavier insert such as 50 grains, you could cut your arrow 29 or 30" and use a 340 spine tipped with a 100 grain point. Check out your preferred arrow manufactures spine chart to help determine what is best for you.
Few years ago I bought arrows from Walmart (Kryptos) and they are 400. I put 4 fletch 100 grain field point a one to six is 445.0 to 455.6 grain weight. My 3 pins Axcel Landslyde has BIG GAP between 3 pins lol.
I prefer to shim one cam at a time for smaller adjustments as the shims on top and bottom do not need to be the same. I have reworked the shims since once I did more tuning.
I watch ur videos on my Xbox but i don't have an account on it so im going to sub on my phone. But i do have a quick question do u think u could send me some arrows ive watch for the last 2 years and i don't have the money for arrows so man plzz
tune is hard. hoyt and pse are bows i will nevery buy again. if someone offered me a hoyt, a pse or a cheap bear, i would take the bear. afterall quality wise is better bow and aint much different in production costs. all bows are way over priced and not really any better then 20yrs ago, just more shop oriented specific add ons at twice the price off a normal sight, rest ect and tuning issues
All bows require the same overall adjustments to tune. Each way they are adjusted has advantages and disadvantages. Tuning isn’t an overly complicated process. You do it once, and you’re done unless you change something. All top manufactures are on the top for a reason and all the brands you listed make great bows. Folks really just have to form their own opinions like you’ve done by testing it themselves. 👍🏻
The masterclass is awesome! Worth every penny and helped me work on my own bows.
We are so happy to hear that! Thank you so much!
I love my new 33 as well. It’s by far the smoothest drawing bow I’ve ever owned and I shot the Mathews,PSE and Bow Tech which were also all impressive. I love working on my own equipment and building arrows I believe it adds to your confidence when you know your equipment in that way. Great video. I went with the Bourbon and looks great.
Really great video, been wanting to learn how to work on my own bow. Alot of great information. Thanks brother.
Sick looking bow! The uv slider goes so well with the hoyt
It really does. Loving it so far!
Believe it or not I have finally understood the importance of moving the cams and not the rest, muchas gracias amigo.
👍👍 getting a bow to shoot like this is exactly why people need to learn how themselves. It’s all in the details. IMO, having confidence your equipment is as good as possible is so important. 👍👍
Absolutely! So much more confidence is built when you learn to do the work yourself.
Awesome video!
Great job Josh !!
Thanks Doug! I hope you’re well.
A video on how to build the draw board, parts used, etc. would be fantastic!
That is some great shooting 👍
Thank you!
Nice bow Josh enjoy it.
Thank you! Loving it so far
Great video!! Question, why did you only shim the top cam initially? It sounded like you ended up shimming both in the end, but just curious why it was initially only the top!
well done!!!
good video man where did you get the red spacer cant find them anywhere
Can you cover your draw board on a video. How and what you used, as much info as possible. Love the looks of it, and it looks like you took the time to make it nice. Thanks!
The masterclass is awesome. Well done! Im curious, have you nock tuned those bareshafts prior to shooting them? Only reason i am asking is that nock tuning the bareshaft can have dramatic impact of bareshaft flight down range, which in turn could give you differing results regarding which way to shim cams/move rest. Hello from Australia !
Thank you! And yes, I don’t go super in depth with this process here, but what I like to do is shoot the full dozen shafts as bareshafts and turn nocks until they are all hitting consistent with each other before making adjustments. I find I get one or two each dozen that just don’t fly with the group for some reason.
If your arrows are all already fletched, I’ll do this same process through paper, shooting each fletched shaft through paper at 6’ and turning nocks on any that are not getting a perfect tear.
Lots of different ways to do this but these are my two favorite ways.
Cheers!
So when you are doing your tuning with fletched arrows vs bare shaft is it important to have the weight arrows? I don't want to cut my fletching off my new arrows but I have older arrows (same spine) but lower weight, thanks for all the videos just did my first string change and you have been a big help appreciate it
What about knock tuning
Love your videos they have been super helpful to me as I’m getting into archery!! I just did some bare shaft tuning, and my arrows are hitting close together, but my bare shaft seems to be coming in an angle where the knock is low, so I did some research and I moved my rest down. is that the right way to go about it is to move the rest and not move the D loop or anything with the cams?!? I also paper tuned and it seemed to be close to a bullet hole after I move the rest down, I moved it down quite a bit, do you think that’s ok?? I don’t seem to have any clearance issues with my fletching, thanks so much for the help!!!!
Double check your cam sync if your getting vertical bareshaft flight that’s different from your fletched field points. It doesn’t take much for it to effect a bareshaft and strings/cables do stretch a bit after shooting and breaking them in.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors brought it in yesterday and that’s exactly what it was, the cam sync was off just a touch!! Thanks!!!!!
Hi Josh! I have a question: If you would have no any budget limits what bow and set-up would you choose? I know you are more like Hoyt lover, but would you consider also other brands? PSE, Mathews, Bowtech, Bear? Maybe you could make a episode about your dream setup fro hunting, target shooting, 3D? 😉BTW: this episode is awsome and you make me consider to purchase master class ;) Greatings from Poland👍
Greetings! Although I’m always tinkering and testing new gear, I always feel like every bow set up I put together is exactly how I want it. I like testing new products and gear, but sometimes I just find products I want to stick with because they work so well and fit my needs perfectly. I’ve owned all of the bow brands you mentioned in the past and they are all great! You really can’t go wrong with whatever you choose, but right now I like Hoyt the best because I believe they make one of the best products on the market. Again, you can’t really go wrong, that’s just my personal preference.
Josh, Now that you are 4 months out, have you finalized your build with this bow, or are you still tinkering? I have the same bow (in Wilderness), and am interested in where you ended up with everything - stabilizers and weight, DL, arrow length, etc. Thanks. I have finished my 46" Husky cabinet with my LCA press, OMP vise, draw board, and arrow saw. . Now to finalize my bow build and build some accurate arrows. I have your master class and appreciate your great tutorials. Keep em coming.
@@TYB439 yes, I’ve finalized everything although some string/cable and serving troubles had me retuning it several times leading up to fall and hunting season. I ended up at 29” mods drawing right at 29”, 70lbs exactly, 460 grain 340 spine Easton axis 5mm 50 grain brass and 100 grain point cut 27” with left helical 3 fletch in AAE max stealth vanes. Getting roughly 290fps last I shot through the chronograph. Running a 12” front bar with 9oz on the front and a 10” back bar with 12oz. Holds and shoots like a dream.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Josh, Did you have problems with the original strings and cables? Did you replace them with any after market? Thanks.
@ the actual string and cables were fine, I just had issues with the servings on both. Had to replace my center serving and then both of the ends to my cable servings due to them coming undone, therefore changing the diameter of the cable in the track of the cams which threw off the cam synchronization. Once fixed, no issues since.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Wow!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors "They are either made right, or they're not" Sorry for your issues.
Could you send me the link for the bow tuning I'd appreciate it thank you another great video
Here is the link to the masterclass. Thank you Keith!
courses.bowonlyoutdoors.com/p/ultimate-bow-build-masterclass
Awesome. Love the bow builds.
How does it draw compared to the ventum series?
Thank you! It’s comparable, but depends where you are at in the draw length range. The mod position will make the feel of the draw vary. The closer to the low end of the mod and the easier and smoother it will draw. Closer to the high end and you’ll gain the most efficiency out of the cam to get the most speed.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors
Thank you. The bow build videos have answered a bunch of my questions. I am 29 inch draw on my ventum pro 30. Appreciate all the info you guys are sharing.
Sick bow. Cant wait to get my 33x @ 80 pounds.
That will be an awesome set up!!
You don’t use a limb lock kit for your press? Are you ever worried about your bow slipping out, or do you have something holding your bow in place?
I’ve never had an issue. I just set the LCA bow fingers in the appropriate position. If replacing or swapping limbs, you do have to be very careful since you are pressing the limbs from a straight position to the flexed position they are in when the bow is at rest.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors okay! I have a LCA press and own a PSE bow and I haven’t yet pressed my bow since I don’t have a limb lock kit and PSE is considered a passed parallel limb bow, so was wondering what you guys did since you shoot Hoyt bows and they are also passed parallel limb bows.
Need some help! Picked up alpha x30. Shooting bullets thru paper but my sight scope housing is close to the riser my pin is almost cover to sight in at 20. Any advise would be appreciated
@@Briguy933 what is your center shot set at? This is caused from the rest being too far inside.
Assuming you are right handed, set your rest back to the left close to 13/16” (understand that there is a range for center shot here) when you do this, you will then get a left tear through paper. To correct the left tear, instead of adjusting the rest to the right, shim your cams slightly to the left. Look at your top or bottom cam and see which one gives you the best natural adjustment. Example would be if your bottom cam has the thin spacer on the left but thicker spacer on the right but your top cam has your thicker spacer on the left and thinner spacer on the right, you’d want to swap your top spacers left to right and right to left to shim that cam to the left.
If you’re left handed, the opposite adjustments to the rest and the cams apply. Hope this makes sense, let me know. Thanks
- Josh
@@BowOnlyOutdoors yes it does. Thanks for the help!
Why did you move only the top cam?
Doesn't the lower cam have any effect on bare shaft tuning?
I'm a beginner in tuning, that's why I'm asking .
Good question! We did it mostly based off of the cam lean. Also always prefer to adjust the top first because the top cam is a bigger adjustment than the bottom cam when it comes to changing arrow flight.
Once we did more fine tuning I did end up adjusting the bottom cam over just a bit.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Thanks for the reply.
The bottom cam was set in the middle?
@@krystiantester5050 if I remember correctly, the bottom cam was already left but with the standard spacers.
What are the benefits of bare shaft tuning if fletched arrows are flying straight at all distances with a perfect tear?
No need to bareshaft tune at that point if your fletched arrow is already flying straight. Bareshaft is just another way to do it that can sometimes more easily show you the adjustments you need to make that may not be able to be seen from a paper tear alone. If you are a hunter, you will want to double check broadhead flight and make any very slight tweaks or adjustments needed.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors it was hard to tell, but your first tear looked pretty dead on. When you shot the bare shaft, the arrow was a lot more exaggerated. Even when you shot them side by side the fletched looked better than the bare shaft that’s why I was a bit confused.
at 70Lbs and 29in, what were you getting for speed on your arrow? I just purchased same bow have same poundage and DL and am I curious
Roughly 290fps with my 460 grain arrow
@@BowOnlyOutdoors ok good to know. I have two arrow setups. one 452g and one 400g.
This may be a dumb question. But when you say multiple mods is that within the th assembly that that comes with the bow or are there different mods that attach to the cam assembly with different configurations
@@MrMuypop there are different mods that attach to the cam for different draw length ranges to get more efficiency out of the cams and into the arrow. The ranges on this Alpha-X 33 are 26-27”, 27 1/4”-29” and 29 1/4”-31”.
Yeah I thought they come out of the box those rest set up for center Shot
What are your thoughts on knock tuning the arrows
It’s a step that I personally believe to be important, but not vital. You can check out my arrow build process here: ua-cam.com/video/dYW2107FD8M/v-deo.htmlsi=kaxh1QSGfWdOM9MU
Could it be that those arrow shafts weak in the spine I'd be more inclined to try a shaft a little bit stiffer in spine before shimming the cams
Several factors can influence it outside of the cam position including arrow spine and also draw length. Draw length was where I wanted it, and I’ve ran the same specs with the same arrows for quite a few years with no issues so would rather not change bow poundage or adjust arrows to compensate. Good question 👍🏻
I have always used a T.R.U.Nock, never used rope D-Loops.
What is the spacer tool you are using at 52:50?
Hoyt’s spacer tool. You can order it from a Hoyt dealer or from Hoyt directly here: store.hoyt.com/products/hoyt-spacer-tool
How often should I change my D Loop/ String if im shooting 3/4 times a week?
String and cables should be replaced at least every 2 years in my opinion and depending on how many arrows you’re shooting each session you should at least get a full year or two out of them. D-loop only needs replaced as you see wear. Should last the life of the string if using proper d-loop material and don’t have a burr on your release.
Do you have a list of needed equipment?
Yes, check out this video here: ua-cam.com/video/eq7B676qF0Q/v-deo.html
How big of hammer did you use to hit your black fingernail?
Haha, long story short, it was slammed in a door on a work trip down in Argentina! Still hasn’t fallen off yet but keeps growing! 😅
Cutting arrow; how about 60lbs 30" draw, what would you recommend?
Depends how much weight you have at the front of your arrow with your insert and point weight. You could get away with a 400 spine if you cut the arrow to 28.5" and used a 20 grain insert and 100 grain point. If you wanted to use a heavier insert such as 50 grains, you could cut your arrow 29 or 30" and use a 340 spine tipped with a 100 grain point.
Check out your preferred arrow manufactures spine chart to help determine what is best for you.
Few years ago I bought arrows from Walmart (Kryptos) and they are 400. I put 4 fletch 100 grain field point a one to six is 445.0 to 455.6 grain weight. My 3 pins Axcel Landslyde has BIG GAP between 3 pins lol.
I think it's because at 24 so much different than that 23 I like the 23 it's tough as nails
Wouldn’t you shim both top and bottom cam or did I miss something?
I prefer to shim one cam at a time for smaller adjustments as the shims on top and bottom do not need to be the same. I have reworked the shims since once I did more tuning.
How much would you charge to setup and tune my new bow?
Unfortunately, as much as I love it, I don't make time to do that other than for close friends.
How much do the arrows weight?
@@TheRangerBuzz 460 grains total
I am only 5.7 feet tall,choose 33 or 30? Because I like 33 ATA bows, it`s a little confusing.
Shoot both and pick what you prefer. Nothing wrong with the 33 if that’s what you prefer.
Just so you know, everybody.That's one of those poses that the average guy just cannot afford a small pay
Dude just with the bow and the damn gone sight you're talking 2400 something like that right
Mfjj says don’t max your cam because you will never keep it in time
No issues having my mods maxed and cams synced here.
Hopefully y'all are sponsored buy Hoyt
I watch ur videos on my Xbox but i don't have an account on it so im going to sub on my phone. But i do have a quick question do u think u could send me some arrows ive watch for the last 2 years and i don't have the money for arrows so man plzz
Cabela’s and Scheels sells some of their own branded arrows for pretty cheap that would work just fine if you can’t afford others. 👍🏻
Sell your x box. Get what you want, and get outside more. 2 birds one stone.
tune is hard. hoyt and pse are bows i will nevery buy again. if someone offered me a hoyt, a pse or a cheap bear, i would take the bear. afterall quality wise is better bow and aint much different in production costs. all bows are way over priced and not really any better then 20yrs ago, just more shop oriented specific add ons at twice the price off a normal sight, rest ect and tuning issues
All bows require the same overall adjustments to tune. Each way they are adjusted has advantages and disadvantages. Tuning isn’t an overly complicated process. You do it once, and you’re done unless you change something. All top manufactures are on the top for a reason and all the brands you listed make great bows. Folks really just have to form their own opinions like you’ve done by testing it themselves. 👍🏻
No better than 20 years ago!?!??? Have you shot a new bow lately they’ve gotten exponentially better even in just the last 5 years
This is not a bow, it's bicycle at worst or ballista at best.
This is not archery.
Reeee!!!! That's all you added to the conversation.
Read my comment again. And so many times as needed.
Then you will maybe be able to comprehend it.